I have done quite a few of these. I have never sent the heads out for surfacing or valve work. I clean them up with a carbon scraper and check for flat. Back on they go. Last one I am currently doing I performed a compression check before pulling it apart to see if all the valves were sealing properly. On the valve job, my theory is if you have a nice tight top end you risk burning oil if you have a high mileage bottom end
I just watched all the videos and have learned a lot. Thank you very much for all your expertise and time. The guy who thought up this DOD is not a friendly guy. I would like to say more but can't
To prevent all that clatter on startup pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank it for a good 20 seconds, pop it back in and send it. I’ve never seen someone rebuild a motor and run it dry like that but to each their own
I used to do that until I realized some things. It Was never run dry I pre oil every part. The only thing that makes noise is the lifters. The oil gets to the part with less turns of the crank if you just fire it up rather than sit and crank it because pumps are more efficient at speed. When you turn the engine at lower rpm to feed all the parts the parts are still working just as hard. The only difference is that they are doing it for a longer time so since it's moving slower, it makes a little less noise and the starter covers up the rest. Also now you are putting more stress than needed on the starter just to make it sound like less damage is done when in reality more damage is done.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair If you hold the Gass and brake pedals it cuts the fuel pump and you can crank it over for like 20 seconds and let it it rip.. I find it to allow oil pressure to build and it has less noise when its actually running and warming up
I have one question I can’t seem the answer too. I did the delete kit by Texas speed and got a new valley cover in the kit. My question is on the new valley cover where the oil sending unit is should I put the screen in that hole before I put the sending unit back? I didn’t do it and I’m getting Sporadic reading on oil pressure reading occasionally. I did tune the dod out in hp tuners. The truck does not tick, sounds strong, just thru a check engine light but haven’t read it yet. Thank you in advance love your channel!
Been watching all of your videos, thank you for all the info. I do have an issue with the oil pressure sensor screen. It won't fit in the new valley cover. Looking for a shorter one... any idea?
Do the dealerships even have the heads resurfaced when they pull them off? I doubt it, sounds great but just not an option for alot of people. The nearest machine shop to me is almost 3 hours away.
Completely depends on the dealership and the technician working on it. Technically they should but they don't always. If it's something that's under warranty of course they won't because they're trying to keep their expense down. The fact of the matter is though, it's always have some sort of warpage and there is always at least one or two intake valves that are bent let alone some of the exhaust valves and seat surfaces are usually pretty nasty.
Great Videos I have a 2008 Yukon with the 6.2 I put 255,000 miles on it, Your vids are very helpful and have me wondering if I should do this DOD setup to keep it going
Most likely can start but it may run in only 4 cylinders and will definitely be in limp home mode. This is due to replacing the VLOM with a non AFM valley cover. The ECM will see it's missing a part it expected to see.
the a/c belt the vehicles with out a tensioner, two 2" putty knives i start to slide the belt off with the first one sliding in during rotation, then i slip the second putty knife rotating a bit more and i can then slide the belt off via the putty knives having lifted the belt off and over the edge of the pulley*. the key is to get the putty knives just slightly over the inside edge of the pulley and drop it off on the engine side. goes back on the same way getting the bottoms and sides all in their positions and then reverse rotation a bit using the putty knives to get under the belt over the pulley edge going clockwise at first until the putty knives are lapped over the edge of the pulley and then sliding them as close as i can to position each one at a time and then reversing counter clockwise rotation and let them follow into place. my putty knives aren't very sharp. there is a rounded end putty knife, but i've never had a problem with regular 2" 'ers
Cool video! My shop foreman and I were talking about doing the DOD deletes. We have been replacing the bad lifters on these ls motors with oe lifters with good results. We did have one Yukon that came back with a bad lifter. It ended up just being a junk new part. We may start giving our customers the option of deleting the setup. Thanks!
nismo2070 I have done this in the past as well. New dod lifters and keep the old cam if it’s not ground down. This saves from pulling the front cover, cam. Then have the software for dod deleted. That way if the pcm is ever flashed by a dealer the hardware is still in place to prevent a mystery problem if somebody else owns the truck.
Bill Antalek jr I paid $650 for all the parts, ac Delco through rockauto/amazon. That includes an oil pump. Add on $50 for software delete through lt1cam swap. Book time for a cam swap is 19 hours. So prob $3k if you had a shop do it
@@BBBILLY86 Ok, my previous post was for a DOD delete and cam swap. If you just wanted to pull off one head and replace 4 DOD lifters you could do it much cheaper. Maybe $300 in parts including the 4 lifters, $50 for programming and maybe about 4 hours in labor.
@@roberttorrez7861 It will but has to be 'tuned' after as it is still programmed trying to activate the solenoids and go in Limp mode. So mandatory to do this, and well worth it.
I had some install dod delete with new valley cover truck now burns tremendous amount of oil is it true the high volume stock oil pump has to be changed to standard volume or do you have any suggestions thank you in advance for any info
Badass series man. You've earned a new subscriber. Definitely referring to this collection in the future. I'm looking into a DOD delete on an '08 Avalanche with the 5.3L Vortec SFI; it's not an LS motor but "LS base", can I expect a similar process for AFM deletion?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair this particular model is extremely well maintained with 115k on the odo with absolutely no known issues with the DOD thus far. I'm fence sitting on using an OBDII splitter and using the Range AFM disabler to see if I can have emissions run with the unit on; ever heard of anyone trying this before?
Depends on generation and labor rate in your area. It's basically 22hrs labor plus parts on gen 4. My labor rate at this time is $90per hr but that may have to go up soon considering rate of inflation.
Soo if you put a new camshaft in there and finish deleting the dod thing it can just start right up? You dont need to get someone to mess with it with a computer?
Nice work, brotha. Is it wise to change the oil afterwards? Also, with a cam swap, does the cam need to be broken-in or is that just for old-school stuff? -Chris
It's best to change oil this guy had just done a oil change less than 100miles ago so I saved his oil and prevented debris from getting in it. As for the cam break in, yeah that's just old school flat tapper stuff.
It's in bellhousing. I use a large wrench to bind up a tq converter bolt, the center nub and the bellhousing whole. Kinda hard to show on camera I guess.
Hello I have a chevy suburban 2004 1500 5.3 engine, the mechanic tells me that you have to change hydraulic divers, piston rings since a spark plug but oil is light, and unclog the cylinder head. What brand of packing recimendas as well as the divers and piston rings, to order them by rockauto. greetings from Lima, Peru
I did the same thing where are the solenoids that go in the valley pan cover that deactivate or kill the cylinders. what did you do with that plug in ? And do you know someone to delete the AFM off the computer good luck with that. I have been fighting with this 5.3L ever since the lifter collapsed 140k mi. Check engine light is probably on and you have random misfire P0300 and other service lights will show up never get through emissions. I'm not a know it all just been my past experience owning one of these trucks. the GMC dealer wanted $4000.00 to pull the heads and replace the lifter that collapsed it happened right after the warranty ran out imagine that...Good video though very informative can anybody direct me to the 07 GMC 5.3L new body style DOD AFM delete?
Does that include parts? I have a feeling no it doesn't because that is way too cheap unless he has a $40 per hr labor rate. I'm at $90 an HR and I charge $4,000-4,400 all included parts, machine work, tune everything.
This is a great video series, very helpful. Did this engine have VVT? Can you do the DOD delete with VVT? My engine (2012 suburban LTZ w/LC9) has just started making a weird chirping/scraping sound that is in time with the cam that I believe is a wrecked roller on one or more of the lifter. The DOD still works fine and non of the lifters were collapsed when I pulled the valve covers. Have you had any experience with this issue? Would this situation require a cam change or just lifters assuming the cam visually checks out?
The full delete can be done on vvt while keeping it or converting it but I keep it when the vehicle has vvt. Just be sure to change what's needed in the tune of the vehicle. You could have a bad roller that take out the cam and you could also have a bad cam bearing though it's not as common. Best thing to do to get a quick idea as to how bad it is would be cut open the oil filter and check what debris you have. Use a magnet to determine if it's steel from lifters or aluminum/copper from bearing.
thanks for the quick response. I stopped driving it when I heard the noise, there were no codes thrown and it still runs fine besides the noise in question. Prior to this is did have the normal LS valve train noises (light ticking). When I was looking for a collapsed lifter I didn't turn the motor over at all. Is it necessary to check rocker movement? If it is a bad lifter that wiped the cam would it just be a matter of replacing the cam and lifters?
@@schmmd01 Be sure to start it with the belt off before digging in to far in case just belt related. Not sure what you mean by " If it is a bad lifter that wiped the cam would it just be a matter of replacing the cam and lifters?" but replacing the cam and lifters does require pulling the heads, and if you do a delete cam the tune will need to be changed and it is recommended to change out the valley plate.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I've taken the belt off to check the accessories already and it still makes the noise. The noise gets much more pronounced when the engine gets warm. A video of the noise can be found here: ruclips.net/video/5JL8kfMmKrI/видео.html What I meant was if it is a lifter/cam issue is it likely the damage is just to those components and if I just replace the damaged components then I'll be good to go or should I be worried about damage to the rest of the motor? I understand what all has to be pulled to replace the cam and lifters.
It will start, however it's not going to run properly. It will either go into limp home mode, or it will enter a mode where it doesn't fire for injectors and coils. If it's not firing for injectors and coils they will run like dog crap.
I did a DOD delete on my 13' Silverado. Put new cam, lifters, and valley cover. My motor is turning but not firing. What should i look for? Or does it need tuning for it to start?
Is it ok to use same pushrods i pulled out my kit said use able in stock valvetrain and do u have to retune whole truck afterward puttin lm7 cam but 100% on the computer needs
Major question I have a 2008 avalanche with the 5.3 afm engine had rebuild done 2months ago new cam new lifters and timing and guess what 2months later same problem collapsed lifters and now the mechanic don't want to stNd behind his wrk says something else is wrong with the truck causing these to go bad what's you thawts
Hi! We installed the new DOD kit plus had the ECM tuned, now I'm facing the problem of engine not firing up or it's not getting the fuel. Checked all fuses are good. Any suggestions why engine don't start?
I forgot to show that very important step in that video and kinda regret it. Eventually I will get around to a new delete video but for now it's just sitting on hard drive as I've been too busy.
I have a 2013 chevy 5.3 number 4 misfire has 0 compression in #4, I tore it apart except the head , the rocker arms are tight but I can push the exhaust down spring that is.I tried hitting the lifter seemed to make the rocker arm tighter reassembled it , ran good about a minute and started running rough... I'm wondering maybe I need to disassemble the volm and get rid of the solenoids and remove oil pressure???? what do you all think???
See my for your local shops video ruclips.net/video/DSiRGnVp-Es/видео.html it will give you links to the most relevant videos. You do need to have DOD turned off to keep the problem from returning.
I want to do a cam swap to my 2014 caprice l77 with btr LS3 stage 2 my question is do I have to do DOD Delete? If so is there away to do it with out the delete kit? Like the way you delete it in your videos?
yes there is a way to do it without a kit and just buy all the parts individually. You may as well just go through texas speed get there kit without the cam telling them what cam you have. They will be sure to get you the parts you need to make it all work.
I had the same question for this guy. He tells you there's a hole somewhere and you need to stick a pin in it but does not show you where. Would be nice for him to show a pic or just stick the camera in the area to show what he is talking about.
won't crank or won't start? did you get the timing marks lined up good? Does it have codes and if so what? Are all the connectors connected? all grounds in place?
I was wondering the same ... I completely under estimated the work involved for this. The cost of labour, well deserved based on what was documented in these videos, is more than double the cost of the kit I think lol ...
I said it basically but if you think I bottom it out you are wrong I know better. Hell I thought I know better than to use a bolt to install on the over tight performance balancer but thought I could get by on stock balancer since the tolerance is looser But I was wrong and fully admit I made a mistake there. Point is live and learn and there is no reason to lie about it. I have got away with that in the past but not this time. So from here on out I will use home made installer.
Fire it yes, but it might shut off 4 of the cylinders fuel and spark or just go into limp home mode without VLOM plugged in since you will have non AFM valley cover.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair i dont have a scanner, when you install the modified vlom what happens with the wiring connector for the vlom and the oil lpressure sensor . i dropped the oil pan when i did all of this work anything i should have done while i was i n there ?
When did this guy plug the oil passages for the DOD system cause I didn’t see him do that and if it wasn’t done then that motor is trash and his time would have been better spent making a video on what not to do.I didn’t car that he didn’t use torque wrench but to say his arm and his expertise is all he needs to torque something sound absolutely ignorant and stupid and all the guys who say that shit are fooling themselves and that’s it.
I have done quite a few of these. I have never sent the heads out for surfacing or valve work. I clean them up with a carbon scraper and check for flat. Back on they go. Last one I am currently doing I performed a compression check before pulling it apart to see if all the valves were sealing properly. On the valve job, my theory is if you have a nice tight top end you risk burning oil if you have a high mileage bottom end
Good video 📹 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 but I have question after the job is done Ned the reprogramming TCM?
I just watched all the videos and have learned a lot. Thank you very much for all your expertise and time. The guy who thought up this DOD is not a friendly guy. I would like to say more but can't
To prevent all that clatter on startup pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank it for a good 20 seconds, pop it back in and send it. I’ve never seen someone rebuild a motor and run it dry like that but to each their own
I used to do that until I realized some things. It Was never run dry I pre oil every part. The only thing that makes noise is the lifters. The oil gets to the part with less turns of the crank if you just fire it up rather than sit and crank it because pumps are more efficient at speed. When you turn the engine at lower rpm to feed all the parts the parts are still working just as hard. The only difference is that they are doing it for a longer time so since it's moving slower, it makes a little less noise and the starter covers up the rest. Also now you are putting more stress than needed on the starter just to make it sound like less damage is done when in reality more damage is done.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair If you hold the Gass and brake pedals it cuts the fuel pump and you can crank it over for like 20 seconds and let it it rip.. I find it to allow oil pressure to build and it has less noise when its actually running and warming up
You are the man! I learn even from your comments! You help me more then you will ever know, finish this last dod delete! Thank you !!!!!!!!
I have one question I can’t seem the answer too. I did the delete kit by Texas speed and got a new valley cover in the kit. My question is on the new valley cover where the oil sending unit is should I put the screen in that hole before I put the sending unit back? I didn’t do it and I’m getting Sporadic reading on oil pressure reading occasionally. I did tune the dod out in hp tuners. The truck does not tick, sounds strong, just thru a check engine light but haven’t read it yet. Thank you in advance love your channel!
Been watching all of your videos, thank you for all the info. I do have an issue with the oil pressure sensor screen. It won't fit in the new valley cover. Looking for a shorter one... any idea?
Not trying to nit pick... but dielectric grease on plug side of boots helps a ton.
Thanks for sharing, getting ready to do this on a 2012 suburban, and this was a big help
Do the dealerships even have the heads resurfaced when they pull them off? I doubt it, sounds great but just not an option for alot of people. The nearest machine shop to me is almost 3 hours away.
Completely depends on the dealership and the technician working on it. Technically they should but they don't always. If it's something that's under warranty of course they won't because they're trying to keep their expense down. The fact of the matter is though, it's always have some sort of warpage and there is always at least one or two intake valves that are bent let alone some of the exhaust valves and seat surfaces are usually pretty nasty.
Great Videos I have a 2008 Yukon with the 6.2 I put 255,000 miles on it, Your vids are very helpful and have me wondering if I should do this DOD setup to keep it going
I'm installing a DOD delete kit with a cam . My question is can start the engine before programming the delete on ECM. Thanks Nelson my name
Most likely can start but it may run in only 4 cylinders and will definitely be in limp home mode. This is due to replacing the VLOM with a non AFM valley cover. The ECM will see it's missing a part it expected to see.
the a/c belt the vehicles with out a tensioner, two 2" putty knives i start to slide the belt off with the first one sliding in during rotation, then i slip the second putty knife rotating a bit more and i can then slide the belt off via the putty knives having lifted the belt off and over the edge of the pulley*. the key is to get the putty knives just slightly over the inside edge of the pulley and drop it off on the engine side. goes back on the same way getting the bottoms and sides all in their positions and then reverse rotation a bit using the putty knives to get under the belt over the pulley edge going clockwise at first until the putty knives are lapped over the edge of the pulley and then sliding them as close as i can to position each one at a time and then reversing counter clockwise rotation and let them follow into place.
my putty knives aren't very sharp. there is a rounded end putty knife, but i've never had a problem with regular 2" 'ers
Cool video! My shop foreman and I were talking about doing the DOD deletes. We have been replacing the bad lifters on these ls motors with oe lifters with good results. We did have one Yukon that came back with a bad lifter. It ended up just being a junk new part. We may start giving our customers the option of deleting the setup. Thanks!
nismo2070 I have done this in the past as well. New dod lifters and keep the old cam if it’s not ground down. This saves from pulling the front cover, cam. Then have the software for dod deleted. That way if the pcm is ever flashed by a dealer the hardware is still in place to prevent a mystery problem if somebody else owns the truck.
@@mph5896 what's the going rate for a DOD fix?
Bill Antalek jr I paid $650 for all the parts, ac Delco through rockauto/amazon. That includes an oil pump. Add on $50 for software delete through lt1cam swap. Book time for a cam swap is 19 hours. So prob $3k if you had a shop do it
@@BBBILLY86 Ok, my previous post was for a DOD delete and cam swap. If you just wanted to pull off one head and replace 4 DOD lifters you could do it much cheaper. Maybe $300 in parts including the 4 lifters, $50 for programming and maybe about 4 hours in labor.
When you change out the camshaft you didn't mention anything about doing a crankshaft relearn process? Is this needed? Why or why not?
Forgot to ask - CrazedPerformanceRepair
Did you send the ECM out for the DOD tuning or do you have the tuner your self - GREAT VIDEO -
I do the tune myself now it was worth the investment for me.
Will it start with out the tune ?
@@roberttorrez7861 It will but has to be 'tuned' after as it is still programmed trying to activate the solenoids and go in Limp mode. So mandatory to do this, and well worth it.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair does a diablo tuner work reliably?
I had some install dod delete with new valley cover truck now burns tremendous amount of oil is it true the high volume stock oil pump has to be changed to standard volume or do you have any suggestions thank you in advance for any info
Badass series man. You've earned a new subscriber. Definitely referring to this collection in the future.
I'm looking into a DOD delete on an '08 Avalanche with the 5.3L Vortec SFI; it's not an LS motor but "LS base", can I expect a similar process for AFM deletion?
Yes should expect the same, I recommend pulling the oil pan and pump
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair this particular model is extremely well maintained with 115k on the odo with absolutely no known issues with the DOD thus far. I'm fence sitting on using an OBDII splitter and using the Range AFM disabler to see if I can have emissions run with the unit on; ever heard of anyone trying this before?
As far as I know it does not effect emissions testing but if you have no problems with the DOD yet I highly recommend the range device.
How much full job?
$2700 parts and labor?
Depends on generation and labor rate in your area. It's basically 22hrs labor plus parts on gen 4. My labor rate at this time is $90per hr but that may have to go up soon considering rate of inflation.
i love those torque wrenches but the torque limit is very annoying some times.
Soo if you put a new camshaft in there and finish deleting the dod thing it can just start right up? You dont need to get someone to mess with it with a computer?
Nice work quick question am I able to drive it to my tuner after the dod delete ?
No because you won't have the VLOM plugged in. Be sure to block the oil towers.
Hi -
CrazedPerformanceRepair
- is that a SNAPON digital torques wrench?
Yes it is maybe a year old
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair That is what I was thinkin - thank you !
Nice work, brotha. Is it wise to change the oil afterwards? Also, with a cam swap, does the cam need to be broken-in or is that just for old-school stuff? -Chris
It's best to change oil this guy had just done a oil change less than 100miles ago so I saved his oil and prevented debris from getting in it. As for the cam break in, yeah that's just old school flat tapper stuff.
Why not show how you secured the shaft from turning? Where did you stick the pin and where is that hole to secure the crankshaft from turning?
It's in bellhousing. I use a large wrench to bind up a tq converter bolt, the center nub and the bellhousing whole. Kinda hard to show on camera I guess.
Great videos. I learned a lot from this videos.
I have a lifter collapsed I hope I can fix it my own.
How much you usually charge for a job like this?
parts and labor included is about $4k
did this dod delete require a computer reprogram to turn off dod?
I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3 and want to do a DOD delete on it, where can I get a kit for it? Thanks
I offer a kit at crazedperformancerepair.com
Hello I have a chevy suburban 2004 1500 5.3 engine, the mechanic tells me that you have to change hydraulic divers, piston rings since a spark plug but oil is light, and unclog the cylinder head. What brand of packing recimendas as well as the divers and piston rings, to order them by rockauto.
greetings from Lima, Peru
Not sure what's up with your website, but in the Shop category, i can't open any of the items to purchase, it's like they're all dead links.
They should work fine, lots of people order every week. Perhaps its your browser or something.
Great informative videos..wish you lived in pa so I could bring you my truck lol..keep up the good work
I did the same thing where are the solenoids that go in the valley pan cover that deactivate or kill the cylinders. what did you do with that plug in ? And do you know someone to delete the AFM off the computer good luck with that. I have been fighting with this 5.3L ever since the lifter collapsed 140k mi. Check engine light is probably on and you have random misfire P0300 and other service lights will show up never get through emissions. I'm not a know it all just been my past experience owning one of these trucks. the GMC dealer wanted $4000.00 to pull the heads and replace the lifter that collapsed it happened right after the warranty ran out imagine that...Good video though very informative can anybody direct me to the 07 GMC 5.3L new body style DOD AFM delete?
Can I ask you how much the job was for this customer? I have a guy quoting me around $1500 to do the DOD delete in my silverado
Does that include parts? I have a feeling no it doesn't because that is way too cheap unless he has a $40 per hr labor rate. I'm at $90 an HR and I charge $4,000-4,400 all included parts, machine work, tune everything.
CrazedPerformanceRepair u steal from people dude
Cant get any better than this! Do you have to replace the crankshaft when doing a DOD delete?
Crankshaft no, camshaft yes
This is a great video series, very helpful. Did this engine have VVT? Can you do the DOD delete with VVT? My engine (2012 suburban LTZ w/LC9) has just started making a weird chirping/scraping sound that is in time with the cam that I believe is a wrecked roller on one or more of the lifter. The DOD still works fine and non of the lifters were collapsed when I pulled the valve covers. Have you had any experience with this issue? Would this situation require a cam change or just lifters assuming the cam visually checks out?
The full delete can be done on vvt while keeping it or converting it but I keep it when the vehicle has vvt. Just be sure to change what's needed in the tune of the vehicle. You could have a bad roller that take out the cam and you could also have a bad cam bearing though it's not as common. Best thing to do to get a quick idea as to how bad it is would be cut open the oil filter and check what debris you have. Use a magnet to determine if it's steel from lifters or aluminum/copper from bearing.
thanks for the quick response. I stopped driving it when I heard the noise, there were no codes thrown and it still runs fine besides the noise in question. Prior to this is did have the normal LS valve train noises (light ticking). When I was looking for a collapsed lifter I didn't turn the motor over at all. Is it necessary to check rocker movement? If it is a bad lifter that wiped the cam would it just be a matter of replacing the cam and lifters?
@@schmmd01 Be sure to start it with the belt off before digging in to far in case just belt related. Not sure what you mean by " If it is a bad lifter that wiped the cam would it just be a matter of replacing the cam and lifters?" but replacing the cam and lifters does require pulling the heads, and if you do a delete cam the tune will need to be changed and it is recommended to change out the valley plate.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I've taken the belt off to check the accessories already and it still makes the noise. The noise gets much more pronounced when the engine gets warm. A video of the noise can be found here: ruclips.net/video/5JL8kfMmKrI/видео.html
What I meant was if it is a lifter/cam issue is it likely the damage is just to those components and if I just replace the damaged components then I'll be good to go or should I be worried about damage to the rest of the motor? I understand what all has to be pulled to replace the cam and lifters.
Is the ac compressor engaged I noticed that the belt was on? That doesn't sound like an engine problem it is a very unique sound.
If I don't get it tuned or unplug the sensor by the brake buster. Will it start or no?
It will start, however it's not going to run properly. It will either go into limp home mode, or it will enter a mode where it doesn't fire for injectors and coils. If it's not firing for injectors and coils they will run like dog crap.
Do you have to use that special cam from Texas Speed or can you use a 05 GM 5.3 Cam non-DOD
I did a DOD delete on my 13' Silverado. Put new cam, lifters, and valley cover. My motor is turning but not firing. What should i look for? Or does it need tuning for it to start?
Did you line up the crack and cam properly?
you didn't change the valley cover?
Valley cover? He didn’t plug the oil passages underneath for the DOD, that motor is trash, it’s gonna bleed and leak oil internally
Is it ok to use same pushrods i pulled out my kit said use able in stock valvetrain and do u have to retune whole truck afterward puttin lm7 cam but 100% on the computer needs
Major question I have a 2008 avalanche with the 5.3 afm engine had rebuild done 2months ago new cam new lifters and timing and guess what 2months later same problem collapsed lifters and now the mechanic don't want to stNd behind his wrk says something else is wrong with the truck causing these to go bad what's you thawts
Release the lifter and turn the system off.
Did you have to get your computer retuned
Yes
Hi! We installed the new DOD kit plus had the ECM tuned, now I'm facing the problem of engine not firing up or it's not getting the fuel. Checked all fuses are good. Any suggestions why engine don't start?
Does I crank and not start or just not even crank? Did you leave a ground off?
When did u plug the oil passages for DOD under the valley cover?
I forgot to show that very important step in that video and kinda regret it. Eventually I will get around to a new delete video but for now it's just sitting on hard drive as I've been too busy.
I am just cerious out the tuning do you just send your ecm out to some place or
You can send your ecm to LT1Swap.com for $50 plus a little shipping.
I have a 2013 chevy 5.3 number 4 misfire has 0 compression in #4, I tore it apart except the head , the rocker arms are tight but I can push the exhaust down spring that is.I tried hitting the lifter seemed to make the rocker arm tighter reassembled it , ran good about a minute and started running rough... I'm wondering maybe I need to disassemble the volm and get rid of the solenoids and remove oil pressure???? what do you all think???
See my for your local shops video ruclips.net/video/DSiRGnVp-Es/видео.html it will give you links to the most relevant videos. You do need to have DOD turned off to keep the problem from returning.
can you replace the lifters with non-DOD and use the stock cam?
Non AFM/DOD lifters will not work with AFM/DOD camshaft on AFM/DOD cylinders.
How do you keep the harmonic balancer pulley from spinning while you tightening the crankshaft bolt
Put the transmission in gear
I want to do a cam swap to my 2014 caprice l77 with btr LS3 stage 2 my question is do I have to do DOD Delete? If so is there away to do it with out the delete kit? Like the way you delete it in your videos?
yes there is a way to do it without a kit and just buy all the parts individually. You may as well just go through texas speed get there kit without the cam telling them what cam you have. They will be sure to get you the parts you need to make it all work.
What do you use to take the crankshaft bolt off how do you keep the harmonic balancer from spinning
I had the same question for this guy. He tells you there's a hole somewhere and you need to stick a pin in it but does not show you where.
Would be nice for him to show a pic or just stick the camera in the area to show what he is talking about.
I did the DOD/Amf delete 5.3 But just wont start what should I look for 1st .
won't crank or won't start? did you get the timing marks lined up good? Does it have codes and if so what? Are all the connectors connected? all grounds in place?
I'm double and triple checking all
Added new ground wires fired right up!
💪👍
@@Wehttam1979 There you go....
Hey man love your videos, very informative. Any way I can pick your brain about this delete kit p.m or phone?
Visit my website www.crazedperformancerepair.com and send me a message.
I’m almost done with this job? How do I go about tuning?
If you did stock non AFM/DOD lt1swap.com is a great source
CrazedPerformanceRepair yes, all stock from texas speed and GM parts.
Do you use anti-seize on bolts like the crank shaft pressing bolt.
If I use anything it is ARP fastener lube and only in specific situations like when using the pressing bolt.
Whats the estimate on a job like this? Nice videos. Watched all of them thanks.
It calls for 20-21 hours of labor.
I was wondering the same ... I completely under estimated the work involved for this. The cost of labour, well deserved based on what was documented in these videos, is more than double the cost of the kit I think lol ...
I love your channel man!!🔧🔧
So you or nobody’s gonna say anything about the ls7 bolt you went to far with?
I said it basically but if you think I bottom it out you are wrong I know better. Hell I thought I know better than to use a bolt to install on the over tight performance balancer but thought I could get by on stock balancer since the tolerance is looser But I was wrong and fully admit I made a mistake there. Point is live and learn and there is no reason to lie about it. I have got away with that in the past but not this time. So from here on out I will use home made installer.
Subscribed. Great job.
Can I Fire it With out doing the Dod disable?
Fire it yes, but it might shut off 4 of the cylinders fuel and spark or just go into limp home mode without VLOM plugged in since you will have non AFM valley cover.
Any idea what I'd be looking at to pay a flat-rate shop to do this to my 08 1500?
Depends on shops rate, option choosen and parts markup but anywhere between $3-7k I typically run $4500ish
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks! Seems like installing a new engine would be a better option
I did not see but what did you do on valley cover?
It is replaced with a non DOD valley cover.
Did u plug the DOD oil passages?cause that’s super important
i did a complete dod delete put it back together now i have no oil pressure,any ideas of where i went wrong ?
Did you replace the VLOM with non DOD valley plate?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yes ,
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yes i did
@@johnschilling7389 do you have any oil pressure sensor circuit codes?
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair i dont have a scanner, when you install the modified vlom what happens with the wiring connector for the vlom and the oil lpressure sensor . i dropped the oil pan when i did all of this work anything i should have done while i was i n there ?
great info bro. subscribed. Can you tell me your trick on installing the ac belt on 17 camaro ss?
Haven't messed with a 17 Camaro yet is it the style with the tensioner like the c7 Vette? No real trick to those...
CrazedPerformanceRepair yes, just like c7. How do you do those? Been fighting it pass two days, lol
I did it with a 15mm wrench and my bare hands. The ac tensor does not have that much tension so I just push down on it with my thumb.
275 ft lbs... about 4 Duggar Duggar past whhiiipcrack. Lol
never did hear what happened with the crank
There is a separate thread repair video on it. I linked it in one of the delete video's. I can link it here later if you want.
nice work
Thanks
questions answered lots learned. bitchin
Come down to Tucson,Az and help me with mine 💰
When did this guy plug the oil passages for the DOD system cause I didn’t see him do that and if it wasn’t done then that motor is trash and his time would have been better spent making a video on what not to do.I didn’t car that he didn’t use torque wrench but to say his arm and his expertise is all he needs to torque something sound absolutely ignorant and stupid and all the guys who say that shit are fooling themselves and that’s it.
Get rid of the ridiculous music.