Excellent detailed video. One point to add - as you witnessed, heavy corrosion between the calliper and the plastic motor housing where the o ring seal sits, the corrosion expands, which then causes the plastic to swell, resulting in a crack to the motor housing. This is then how the housing fills with water, causing the failure. I’ve witnessed this on a Megane 4.
Thank a lot for this video. Very clear as well as your English easy to follow for non native. The battery test is excellent. In fact it help to "refresh" the electrical motor. Let me explain. I had one side with no parking break at all while the other one was good. After removing the motor from the caliper and then the water that was inside, I applied 12V from an external battery changing the direction of rotation. Little by little the motor had more rotation until it move easily. I put it back and it works. The car test shows the same force on both wheel. My interpretation is that the water inside the motor rust the mechanic. In normal condition the displacement of the pad is too short for the motor to "clean" its rust.
You’re a saint for making this video as like you said, this is a common issue on the Scenic’s. My near side motor has just died on me and I have one on order. I watched your video first then went straight out and did the removal. The issue on the scenic you worked on was identical to my issue.
My second Grand Scenic iii, i used to have a 1,9 dci from 2010, now 1,5 from 2013. Both love them and hate them so much. So comfy and nice to drive, 1,5 gives great fuel economy but every now and then something fails. In january i had the problem with seized ERB. I lost 5 hours and a lot of nerves. Really, Reanult is not for you if you cherish only reliability as the sole quality a car should have. Thanks for the great video, I wish i would have seen it before.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Yes... here just outside Munich this morning we had -3 and light snowfall. Not the right time of year to be climbing under cars ;-)
One of the reasons these are failing due to leakage is that some mechanics put Vaseline on the seal rather than Silicone Grease. Never use Vaseline which is petroleum based and deteriorates the seal and then it leaks.
Great video.. I've followed all steps.. The moror has been removed and when ive applied 12v it works.. I'm getting no voltage at the motor on the left hand side. So my problem is elsewhere. Just to note: last night it worked, whilst the battery was connected under the bonnet i was charging it on my battery charger, and simultaneously cleared all fault codes for the glow plugs.. this morning, only one EPB is working? And i did remember when i did clear all code the brake light turned red. Is this a coincidence? Where else would you recommend i look for corrosion/ for the problem? I'm pulling my hair out as i was hoping the problem would be the motor, but it is not. Have you suggestions to where I could look? Best
Sometimes when code readers are working lights can be illuminated as systems are being checked. What I would do is first check for codes on the EPB system. Then probe the plug for the motor, if no 12v there check back to where the plug connects to the EPB module and see if there is 12v there.
Great video, it's just what I could use. However, I have a simple question. When the piston is screwed all the way back onto the caliper, it just needs to be screwed half a turn the other way before I fit the new motor back in. It looks like is that what you are doing in the video?
I am at a bit of a loss. I have changed the electronic brake motor, but still does not work. The car will hold on a hill facing upwards but not downwards. I have cleared codes. Also for some reason it will not let me do an electronic brake release and apply, when previously it did. Any thoughts would be helpful
Hello, nice info! I have a quite different situation, I could use your advice... It seems like the Electronic Parking Handbrake (EPB - ECU) unit (285F28650R) needs to be reset or replaced, as it doesn't give correct signals to the motor. Do you know where is it located and how can it be reset? Thanks!
thanks for the reply! Problem is when parking handbrake applied, the left motor keeps working more than the other, resulting in a non locked wheel. I have changed motor and caliper with no results...
Hi, a quick question if i may, i need to change the disc's and pads, could i retract the piston manually by unscrewing as you did in the video, and reset (after changing the pads) by just applying the hand brake after everything is put back together, or will it need retracting by scan tool, thankyou in advance 🙂
Obviously it isn't the correct way and I don't recommend doing it. But there are some videos on RUclips of people doing similar things by directly attaching a 12v feed to the motors to rewind the EPB screw. You will need to disconnect the battery to avoid setting any codes the same as they do and you may still set one anyway. Then I guess you could just do the job they are getting the motor to do yourself. The EPB screw MUST be wound fully back (as the scan tool would ensure) before you push back the piston or it will be damaged.
Thank you so much this was very helpful i've been suffering from this problem for so long. The guy who changed the pads didn't respect the procedure and used a screwdriver to push the piston with force after opening it with a 12v source
Well timed video, my car sounds an alarm and you get the same stop message. Both motors same to be working, but you get the same message as yours check ESP ABS the the abs light on and the service spanner. After driving the car all warning go off and the car would be OK for a couple of days, then the same thing would happen again. When I bought the car the man told me it had just had new brake discs and pads. Do you think it could be a intermittent fault on the motors or could it be he didn't have a diagnostic machine to clear the faults. Gary.
Hello Gary, the EPB system is largely unrelated to the ESP system there are some crossovers but they are mostly for emergency situations. The motors themselves play no role in ABS or ESP operations. The ABS and ESP systems are very closely related and share many components. The best thing to do will be to get the codes read in order to give you a direction to go in. The brake change may be the reason for the fault but not in the way you describe more likely a sensor was damaged.
Excellent video, thank you - made doing the same job a doddle! Unfortunately for me, there is evidence of brake fluid leakage through the centre where you mentioned... Any guidance on repair of that or just where to look to find out more?
You are actually in luck. I am just editing a video doing the discs and pads, while doing it I found the caliper in this video was seized so I also recorded changing that. The discs and pads video will be out in a week or so and the caliper video the following week. I will also probably make a video of refurbishing the caliper within a month or so. Hope it will all be in time to help you.
Cheers! I doubt I'll bother rebuilding the caliper as an exchange unit isn't expensive and I'll want to minimise the time my wife spends borrowing my car instead! Will be intrigued to see whether it's something that's maybe more easy to get at though...
I found my caliper for £115 and it wasn't even an exchange. That was from online automotive. Next day delivery and 5 year warranty on the caliper, NK brand. The leaking seal means the whole caliper has to come apart. The hardest part of changing the caliper is the brake line, I used freeze spray and it came loose but I recommend you get the union wire brushed and start soaking it now if the car is off road anyway. Also don't clamp the flexi hose going to the caliper, the line is rubber coated braided steel, easy to miss and they crush if you clamp them, I used a fluid stop kit. Hopefully you can wait for my video. If not don't hesitate to ask anything you need to know.
I doubt you will be able to buy the locking clip separately. You will probably have to buy a new or second hand connecter plug and see if you can swap the locking clip over.
Hello. Your question is a little confusing. The motor just runs in either direction the spline will not need turning at all, infact you will damage it doing that. Do you mean are calipers supplied with the handbrake mechanism on or off?
I have a mk3 clio same engine as your mk2, I seem so have an air leak coming from somewhere, checked my intake manifold and all the studious vacuum hoses, replaced the fuel breather valve on the left side and checked the brake servo all of it seems to be fine air sounds like it’s coming from top of engine showing no signs of a blown head gasket, could my rocker cover be causing this leak ? Or have you any ideas on what else it could be ? Many thanks mate
What are your symptoms other than just a noise like an air leak? One thing I can think of you haven't checked would be the map sensor. It is just a push fit into the intake manifold.
Other symptoms I’ve noticed are high revs sometimes, idling seems a bit more rough than Id say is normal, sometimes the car feels like it’s got no power when accelerating too. The sensor is also fine I popped it off and checked the o rings seems to be ok
Hi,question brakes are not seized does the epb need to be applied or released to change the motor issue is one side is not applying due to faulty motor i would think released so both sides are free but secure car from moving
To me the socket and plug is wrong, in that position the plug will collect dirt and water, it should have been an internal plug, the current design would suit the plug being on top facing down, the shielding would keep water and dust out, its much better than the central unit with cables,
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Excellent detailed video. One point to add - as you witnessed, heavy corrosion between the calliper and the plastic motor housing where the o ring seal sits, the corrosion expands, which then causes the plastic to swell, resulting in a crack to the motor housing. This is then how the housing fills with water, causing the failure. I’ve witnessed this on a Megane 4.
Thank a lot for this video. Very clear as well as your English easy to follow for non native. The battery test is excellent. In fact it help to "refresh" the electrical motor. Let me explain. I had one side with no parking break at all while the other one was good. After removing the motor from the caliper and then the water that was inside, I applied 12V from an external battery changing the direction of rotation. Little by little the motor had more rotation until it move easily. I put it back and it works. The car test shows the same force on both wheel. My interpretation is that the water inside the motor rust the mechanic. In normal condition the displacement of the pad is too short for the motor to "clean" its rust.
You’re a saint for making this video as like you said, this is a common issue on the Scenic’s. My near side motor has just died on me and I have one on order. I watched your video first then went straight out and did the removal. The issue on the scenic you worked on was identical to my issue.
Glad the video has helped you.
My second Grand Scenic iii, i used to have a 1,9 dci from 2010, now 1,5 from 2013. Both love them and hate them so much. So comfy and nice to drive, 1,5 gives great fuel economy but every now and then something fails. In january i had the problem with seized ERB. I lost 5 hours and a lot of nerves. Really, Reanult is not for you if you cherish only reliability as the sole quality a car should have.
Thanks for the great video, I wish i would have seen it before.
These are by far the best mechanic videos I've watched.
Great indeed! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
👍👍👍 This was uploaded 9 days ago I don't know how I missed it. 🤔 .Thank you.
Thank you very much for your help with this faulty parking brake problem.
Excellent job saved a lot of money from the garage
Fantastic mate, thanks. Just arrived at work and exactly this problem has just happened. Cheers
I've had one fail on a cold morning too. Feel your pain.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Yes... here just outside Munich this morning we had -3 and light snowfall. Not the right time of year to be climbing under cars ;-)
You just saved me a lot of money !! Thank you a lot, keep up with the good work!
One of the reasons these are failing due to leakage is that some mechanics put Vaseline on the seal rather than Silicone Grease. Never use Vaseline which is petroleum based and deteriorates the seal and then it leaks.
Great video..
I've followed all steps..
The moror has been removed and when ive applied 12v it works..
I'm getting no voltage at the motor on the left hand side.
So my problem is elsewhere.
Just to note: last night it worked, whilst the battery was connected under the bonnet i was charging it on my battery charger, and simultaneously cleared all fault codes for the glow plugs.. this morning, only one EPB is working? And i did remember when i did clear all code the brake light turned red.
Is this a coincidence?
Where else would you recommend i look for corrosion/ for the problem?
I'm pulling my hair out as i was hoping the problem would be the motor, but it is not.
Have you suggestions to where I could look?
Best
Sometimes when code readers are working lights can be illuminated as systems are being checked.
What I would do is first check for codes on the EPB system.
Then probe the plug for the motor, if no 12v there check back to where the plug connects to the EPB module and see if there is 12v there.
More videos on this car plz😊
Definitely more to come.
Thank you ❤ never give up
Great video, it's just what I could use. However, I have a simple question. When the piston is screwed all the way back onto the caliper, it just needs to be screwed half a turn the other way before I fit the new motor back in. It looks like is that what you are doing in the video?
I just set the screw so the brake is just off from being applied yes. That is where the car has it when the handbrake is off.
I don't have this car but I enjoy the content:)
The Clio will return soon. Just keeps getting delayed by other things.
I am at a bit of a loss. I have changed the electronic brake motor, but still does not work. The car will hold on a hill facing upwards but not downwards. I have cleared codes. Also for some reason it will not let me do an electronic brake release and apply, when previously it did. Any thoughts would be helpful
Hello, nice info! I have a quite different situation, I could use your advice... It seems like the Electronic Parking Handbrake (EPB - ECU) unit (285F28650R) needs to be reset or replaced, as it doesn't give correct signals to the motor. Do you know where is it located and how can it be reset? Thanks!
What do you mean by gives wrong signals to the motor? The module is in the boot down the left side.
thanks for the reply! Problem is when parking handbrake applied, the left motor keeps working more than the other, resulting in a non locked wheel. I have changed motor and caliper with no results...
The wire going into my near side break is broken right on the housing of the plugs you took off. Is this an easy fix or costly?
You can get repair sections with the plug on ebay which should keep the costs down.
Hi, a quick question if i may, i need to change the disc's and pads, could i retract the piston manually by unscrewing as you did in the video, and reset (after changing the pads) by just applying the hand brake after everything is put back together, or will it need retracting by scan tool, thankyou in advance 🙂
Obviously it isn't the correct way and I don't recommend doing it. But there are some videos on RUclips of people doing similar things by directly attaching a 12v feed to the motors to rewind the EPB screw. You will need to disconnect the battery to avoid setting any codes the same as they do and you may still set one anyway. Then I guess you could just do the job they are getting the motor to do yourself. The EPB screw MUST be wound fully back (as the scan tool would ensure) before you push back the piston or it will be damaged.
Thank you so much this was very helpful i've been suffering from this problem for so long. The guy who changed the pads didn't respect the procedure and used a screwdriver to push the piston with force after opening it with a 12v source
Well timed video, my car sounds an alarm and you get the same stop message. Both motors same to be working, but you get the same message as yours check ESP ABS the the abs light on and the service spanner. After driving the car all warning go off and the car would be OK for a couple of days, then the same thing would happen again. When I bought the car the man told me it had just had new brake discs and pads. Do you think it could be a intermittent fault on the motors or could it be he didn't have a diagnostic machine to clear the faults.
Gary.
Hello Gary, the EPB system is largely unrelated to the ESP system there are some crossovers but they are mostly for emergency situations. The motors themselves play no role in ABS or ESP operations.
The ABS and ESP systems are very closely related and share many components. The best thing to do will be to get the codes read in order to give you a direction to go in. The brake change may be the reason for the fault but not in the way you describe more likely a sensor was damaged.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Thanks for replying, I will get the codes read and see what it brings up. Cheers Gary.
Excellent video, thank you - made doing the same job a doddle! Unfortunately for me, there is evidence of brake fluid leakage through the centre where you mentioned... Any guidance on repair of that or just where to look to find out more?
You are actually in luck. I am just editing a video doing the discs and pads, while doing it I found the caliper in this video was seized so I also recorded changing that. The discs and pads video will be out in a week or so and the caliper video the following week. I will also probably make a video of refurbishing the caliper within a month or so. Hope it will all be in time to help you.
Cheers! I doubt I'll bother rebuilding the caliper as an exchange unit isn't expensive and I'll want to minimise the time my wife spends borrowing my car instead! Will be intrigued to see whether it's something that's maybe more easy to get at though...
I found my caliper for £115 and it wasn't even an exchange. That was from online automotive. Next day delivery and 5 year warranty on the caliper, NK brand. The leaking seal means the whole caliper has to come apart.
The hardest part of changing the caliper is the brake line, I used freeze spray and it came loose but I recommend you get the union wire brushed and start soaking it now if the car is off road anyway. Also don't clamp the flexi hose going to the caliper, the line is rubber coated braided steel, easy to miss and they crush if you clamp them, I used a fluid stop kit. Hopefully you can wait for my video. If not don't hesitate to ask anything you need to know.
Can you tell me if before starting this job ,replacing the motor ,,do you have to use the diagnostic tool to activate maintenance mode ? Thanks
No you do not need to go into maintenance mode. However you will need to clear any faults to get the system to operate again.
Brilliant. Thanks
Thank you for your informations 🙋♂
Hi where are you based and do you service these? Thanks
Hi, Do you know where i could pick up a spare red slider clip? Do you know what they are called? One of mine is missing
I doubt you will be able to buy the locking clip separately. You will probably have to buy a new or second hand connecter plug and see if you can swap the locking clip over.
@@SocketsAndSideburns Popped to the scrap yard and found one :) thanks for the reply :)
Nice one Thank you very much.
Hi..when the motor is supplied is this in the off position and if so how much do you turn out the spline before you fit motor to it...thanks
Hello. Your question is a little confusing. The motor just runs in either direction the spline will not need turning at all, infact you will damage it doing that. Do you mean are calipers supplied with the handbrake mechanism on or off?
does anyone know what the pad change procedure is on scenic 3 with EPB?
You are in luck. I will be posting up a video of how to change the discs and pads soon.
I have a mk3 clio same engine as your mk2, I seem so have an air leak coming from somewhere, checked my intake manifold and all the studious vacuum hoses, replaced the fuel breather valve on the left side and checked the brake servo all of it seems to be fine air sounds like it’s coming from top of engine showing no signs of a blown head gasket, could my rocker cover be causing this leak ? Or have you any ideas on what else it could be ? Many thanks mate
What are your symptoms other than just a noise like an air leak?
One thing I can think of you haven't checked would be the map sensor. It is just a push fit into the intake manifold.
Other symptoms I’ve noticed are high revs sometimes, idling seems a bit more rough than Id say is normal, sometimes the car feels like it’s got no power when accelerating too. The sensor is also fine I popped it off and checked the o rings seems to be ok
hello, Was your rear wheel blocked due to the faulty actuator?
Yes it was seized.
Hi,question brakes are not seized does the epb need to be applied or released to change the motor issue is one side is not applying due to faulty motor i would think released so both sides are free but secure car from moving
In this video the EPB is released to change the motor but I do not believe it would matter.
Thankyou for your advice super video
Can I ask a question regarding changing of pollen filter does the clutch pedal have to be removed to get access for renault grand scenic 2013
This what is happening to my car right now. Pls, who can repair it? Thanks
Good ☝️
To me the socket and plug is wrong, in that position the plug will collect dirt and water, it should have been an internal plug, the current design would suit the plug being on top facing down, the shielding would keep water and dust out, its much better than the central unit with cables,
Look at the filth round delicate elctrical nonsense, unforgivable BAD "design"