Bedec do some great paint. I’ve been using barn paint and msp on exterior work for years and never had a problem with it. The msp is better than zinsser allcoat for sure. Good review Phil.
Random question Phil. Ive been contracted by local council to paint the bus shelters, some are from the 80s with coragated roofs and rusty. Some are modern and in need of a freshen up. What paint would you recommend? Im undecided as i would normally spray with airless or hvlp but cant due to concerns with overspray hitting passing cars. Your opinion would be much appreciated. Keep the videos comimg we all love em
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator the bus shelters seem to be galvanized on the larger panels and then pressed steel on the more complex shaped panels. I agree totally something fast drying and minimal prep. I was thinking maybe a plant machinery paint or the likes
Hi ive used the high adhesion tikurilla and cupboard door paints. Wow these perform. Ive used bedec and continue to use it myself. I do find mixed performance in terms of scratching on surfaces you would normally sand unercoat and prime. However it says it needs no seperate undercoat and primer. I still have mixed thoughts with msp even though I continue to use it..
Hi Phil, loving your videos. I'm about to paint some exterior windows which are currently oil based gloss. If I go with Bedec water based system, which method/product would you go with? 1. Usual prep, grip primer, Bedec Aqua Advanced primer/undercoat, 2 x Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin top coat - 4 COATS TOTAL 2. Usual prep, Bedec Aqua Advanced primer/undercoat, 2 x Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin top coat - 3 COATS TOTAL 3. Usual prep, grip primer, 2 x Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin top coat - 3 COATS TOTAL 4. Usual prep, 2 x Bedec MSP Satin top coat - 2 COATS TOTAL So many options!!!!!!! Thanks
Option 2. A good sand, clean down, spot prime and bare with the aqua primer/UC. Then UC and two top coats. Bedec Aqua Advance is very good. If you wanted a quick turn around... go with Bedec MSP. Aqua Advance is the next step up if you want a 'bit better' paint to use over MSP
Thanks Phil, great overview and review. How hardy is the finish after a month? Would you use it for shelving with items being laid, pushed, slid around the surface?
What is more durable paint for interior woodwork on doors and bannister etc? 2 coats of This or the bedec aqua advanced undercoat and 2 coats of satin? What's the difference?
I'd go the Bedec Aqua Advance over the MSP on interior woodwork. If it were a quick turn around the MSP is good. Being self Undercoating etc. meaning the need for only one can, NOT a can if UC then a can if top coat.
Another great review with loads of tips. Thank you. I like the cheet paint metaphor Can you do a vid on zinsser allcoat. I'm thinking of using zinsser allcoat on metal railings. It has 15year life, quick dry and self undercoating. I'm hoping to get 3 coats on in a day. Is this a good choice when considering time and performance? Thanks again
Yes you can. Whether its the best ... Hmmmm. To fully cure Bedec MSP takes one month. It's self priming. On stair treads... Look at a satin finish. Everal Aqua 40 would be a good hard wearing paint to look at. The primer is Everal Aqua Primer. Or go with Bedec Aqua Advance
Hi Phil I tried the soft satin white, tbh I wasn't thrilled, it looks like an undercoat to me. Wondering if I can use the rest of it as a sort of multi surface primer if I'm unsure of what's already there? On a more positive note I also used the tikkurilla anti reflex white on my ceiling and was very impressed. Best emulsion I've ever used!
The soft satin is a nice finish. The soft Matt is more like a dry Undercoat look. I wouldn't use it as primer. Use it up on undereaves and satin on windows.
Can you do a video of the paint kettle and how to burn it out, I've just sent my Quickshot in for repair as the gun has a fault on it :(, Love your channel, You've become my favourite YTber.
Sand them and prepare as normal. Spot prime if needed. And two coats. Remember. 30 days to fully cure. Also look at Bedec All Prime, then the Aqua Gloss or Satin paint. That's the next level up on a quality paint. Over a paint that's Multi Surface.
always find your videos of interest Phil, and I've recently been using Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin white for interior woodwork, and I see they also do gloss in that product, so I'm just wondering why you would use MSP? Ahhh... I've just realised that MSP is self-undercoating - I guess that's the benefit whereas Aqua Advanced has a separate primer/undercoat?
try using wet & dry as it will key the surface without leaving fine scratch marks especially old oil surfaces which can show through finish, i dont wet but use dry, there sometimes too course & griity which don't sit flat on surface unlike wet & dry 😉 also i have always argued the do panels first then top, middle bottom followed by sides, as you had here you come slightly over mouldings, then you rush to get back to it,even though you run off ? oils it don't work & leaves fatty edge unless you wipe off with white spirit if doing panels first only do up to moulding, don't have to fuss & cut in as when the flat part of door is done you can come slightly over mouldings where done previously & won't notice, no criticism mate but in 38yrs you learn things & I've always said there's more than 1 way to paint a door & back in the day with oil gloss etc they always did the panels & came over when doing mouldings & if there's 4 by the time you got to the bottom 2 anyway it started to go off & left the fatty edge, i always thinned out slightly to make easier unknown to the foreman who moaned it loses it's shine 😉 just a bit was fine
its good paint, but as with any water based paint when dealing with heat, yo u have to change your working practice, work out the sun when you can, use something like Smith&Rogers Flow&Bond helps too. But TBH I'd use MSP on facias and under eaves etc, it's ideal paint for those areas. Quick and easy to get on and need little prep to the surface when you can only show it some sand paper and a duster brush.
Having my roof replaced on a three storey Victorian property , so have got scaffolding up . The roofer thinks I should cap over original fascias with UPVC as it’s then maintenance free ….with the cost of the scaffolding ( £1500 ) I can see his point . However I’ve read on a few forums that the Bedec is great stuff …also heard good reviews on lindseed paint . Just can’t make my mind up…would prefer to keep it original , but worried about maintenance . How long do you think this paint lasts outdoors before it ends re doing ? I’d be using a white paint .
linseed paint is a maintanace based paint, you refresh i going over it with linseed oil.. boiled linseed oil I'd of thought as that drys, raw linseed oil stays sticky. how long is a piece of string to how long paint lasts... weather, where does the sun get it etc alters what side of teh huse can last longer. If it's a scaffold job every time to do it, cost wise.. uPVC it. If scaffold evry 5+ years doesn't bother you.... clean it down well... and Bedec MSP, Or Bedec BarnPaint in sodt satin or soft gloss is an option. Orclean down really well, give one or two coats (if you've sanded and have bare wood/filler showing) of Isomat aqua AllPrimer and two top coats of Isomat isolac satin.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for your reply ….having had a sleepless night and now reading your comments …I think I’ve come to the conclusion that in seven years time when the fascias need doing again at the rate of inflation the scaffold will be 3 grand ….so much as it pains me to clad over wood I’m going to do it . I’ve kept the windows wood and they are a pain !! I wish I’d discovered your channel as I’ve just painted them in Dulux weathershield ….and now wish I’d gone water based ….but having said that it was so thick on edge parts of windows and a bugger to sand off , is it ok to go over layers of oil based with water based ?
What would it be like coverage wise on a exterior? Weathered, discolored etc white on white? Would it need an undercoat with something else to help with opacity? Cheers mate
Think im going to buy this as was unsure between aqua advanced or msp. Need to do rads, Skirting and staircase so makes sense. Now i do have 1930 doors i had chemically stripped by a company few years back then sanded by myself and coated in osmo oil. Would msp cover it as reading around most seem to day nothing will stick to it
using the osmo previosly has jiggered you up for painting them.. it won't adhere properly as you're going over a wax/oil.. it'll chip. you're better using waterbased floor varnish on stripped/bare wood doors.. seen my video on painting oak veneer doors using No nonsence floor varnish?
Mmmmm, Bedec. Hey Phil, ever done a video on painting lcose to the floor, doors, skirting etc. I always cop out and end up with it looking dry as I worry about it dribbling, cheers.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Just going by your holiday posts on Facebook. I’m very busy. Had four enquiries this afternoon and I was on my way home from a weekend in Scotland. It’s been non stop. Holiday on Saturday for 10 days so my phone will be off !
Great no nonsense review Phil. The only thing with all of these multisurface paints is the opacity isnt quiet as good as most other standard water based finishes...but thats the trade off because more of the adhesion promoting ingredients need to be added. That said you cant base the quality of a paint on its ability to 'go in one'
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you would still rather use water based than pre 2010 oil based Phil and msp version too guaranteed at least one less coat and more durable
@@jackwardley3626 durable in what sense? Smell, drying times, clean up. ... All for the win. Oil.base ... Look how many outside peel and crack... All be oil oil based over the years
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I don't think clean up is any worse than a water based paint ive seen the cracking and peeling happen the same with water based paints all paints will eventually crack most of that cracking and flaking with oil based finishes was probably a standard oil gloss. A oil based MSP version would different and one less coat on a whole exterior repaint by yourself is a godsent
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator can you used bedec as an alternative my brother used it on some flat melamine wardrobe doors looks good but just wondering what you think? is Bedec paint ok for furniture spraying etc
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no, a Decotator mentioned to me about this but never looked into it. Just looking at I always watch the USA furniture flippers there always using enamel paint but mega pricey and brand that are not in the UK. This looks interesting wonder if it would need a coat of Polly over it on furniture? Nice one 👍
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you mean masonry for outside wall paint ? Tried it dont last outside with weather like water, thats why am thinking of using gloss
have you heard of bradite one Phil apparently thats self knotting and can go over all metals ferrous and non and recoat 1 hour apparently the white doesn't cover very well though always starts off then the old classic comes up bloody whites. these paints would destroy a pure bristle brush after a few uses
All colour waterbased paints are alot better than the whites.simple.just tell them straight.cant beat oilbased for durability and finish.stop beating around the bush
the high end water based paints are better than oil paints we have now oil based glosses eggshells aren't as durable as they used to be themselves due to restrictions on what materials can be used but oil now is still better than cheap or cheaper water paints and oil is generally cheaper which is what still makes it appealing but tinted oil based paints take a absolute age to dry hard nowadays
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Just used Bedec MSP satin anthracite on my banister rails. It's absolutely excellent.
Bedec do some great paint. I’ve been using barn paint and msp on exterior work for years and never had a problem with it. The msp is better than zinsser allcoat for sure. Good review Phil.
Brilliant Phil, lovely jubbly!
Great video, Phiil. I'm a big fan of Bedec mate, good stuff 👍
Brilliant review Phil, great video as usual mate
Random question Phil. Ive been contracted by local council to paint the bus shelters, some are from the 80s with coragated roofs and rusty. Some are modern and in need of a freshen up. What paint would you recommend? Im undecided as i would normally spray with airless or hvlp but cant due to concerns with overspray hitting passing cars. Your opinion would be much appreciated. Keep the videos comimg we all love em
What material are the bush shelters?
You may need a specialist coating, that drys fast but will go over anything with no prep!
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator the bus shelters seem to be galvanized on the larger panels and then pressed steel on the more complex shaped panels. I agree totally something fast drying and minimal prep. I was thinking maybe a plant machinery paint or the likes
Good gear I usually get it in Crown Center
Hi Phil! Which do you think is the best to use for a glossy black exterior door, exposed to sun and rain. Between Bedec Msp and Isolac aqua? Thanks
Hi ive used the high adhesion tikurilla and cupboard door paints. Wow these perform. Ive used bedec and continue to use it myself. I do find mixed performance in terms of scratching on surfaces you would normally sand unercoat and prime. However it says it needs no seperate undercoat and primer. I still have mixed thoughts with msp even though I continue to use it..
Hi Phil, loving your videos. I'm about to paint some exterior windows which are currently oil based gloss. If I go with Bedec water based system, which method/product would you go with?
1. Usual prep, grip primer, Bedec Aqua Advanced primer/undercoat, 2 x Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin top coat - 4 COATS TOTAL
2. Usual prep, Bedec Aqua Advanced primer/undercoat, 2 x Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin top coat - 3 COATS TOTAL
3. Usual prep, grip primer, 2 x Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin top coat - 3 COATS TOTAL
4. Usual prep, 2 x Bedec MSP Satin top coat - 2 COATS TOTAL
So many options!!!!!!!
Thanks
Option 2.
A good sand, clean down, spot prime and bare with the aqua primer/UC.
Then UC and two top coats.
Bedec Aqua Advance is very good.
If you wanted a quick turn around... go with Bedec MSP.
Aqua Advance is the next step up if you want a 'bit better' paint to use over MSP
Thanks Phil, really appreciate it@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
Thanks Phil, great overview and review. How hardy is the finish after a month? Would you use it for shelving with items being laid, pushed, slid around the surface?
You can. But if you want the next level look at the aqua advance, using the UC and the. Two top coats.
What is more durable paint for interior woodwork on doors and bannister etc? 2 coats of This or the bedec aqua advanced undercoat and 2 coats of satin? What's the difference?
I'd go the Bedec Aqua Advance over the MSP on interior woodwork.
If it were a quick turn around the MSP is good. Being self Undercoating etc. meaning the need for only one can, NOT a can if UC then a can if top coat.
Another great review with loads of tips. Thank you. I like the cheet paint metaphor
Can you do a vid on zinsser allcoat.
I'm thinking of using zinsser allcoat on metal railings. It has 15year life, quick dry and self undercoating. I'm hoping to get 3 coats on in a day. Is this a good choice when considering time and performance?
Thanks again
Hi Phil after your advice again. Would you recommend this paint to use on stair treads with a carpet runner? Which primer?
Yes you can. Whether its the best ... Hmmmm.
To fully cure Bedec MSP takes one month.
It's self priming.
On stair treads... Look at a satin finish.
Everal Aqua 40 would be a good hard wearing paint to look at.
The primer is Everal Aqua Primer.
Or go with Bedec Aqua Advance
Hi Phil I tried the soft satin white, tbh I wasn't thrilled, it looks like an undercoat to me. Wondering if I can use the rest of it as a sort of multi surface primer if I'm unsure of what's already there?
On a more positive note I also used the tikkurilla anti reflex white on my ceiling and was very impressed. Best emulsion I've ever used!
The soft satin is a nice finish. The soft Matt is more like a dry Undercoat look.
I wouldn't use it as primer.
Use it up on undereaves and satin on windows.
Can you do a video of the paint kettle and how to burn it out, I've just sent my Quickshot in for repair as the gun has a fault on it :(, Love your channel, You've become my favourite YTber.
Be interesting to see what this is like on melomine kitchen units, over a haftprimer maybe.
Great review. Do you think it would go over oil based gloss and bond ok on external widows and sills?
Sand them and prepare as normal. Spot prime if needed. And two coats.
Remember. 30 days to fully cure.
Also look at Bedec All Prime, then the Aqua Gloss or Satin paint.
That's the next level up on a quality paint.
Over a paint that's Multi Surface.
Thanks
always find your videos of interest Phil, and I've recently been using Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin white for interior woodwork, and I see they also do gloss in that product, so I'm just wondering why you would use MSP? Ahhh... I've just realised that MSP is self-undercoating - I guess that's the benefit whereas Aqua Advanced has a separate primer/undercoat?
Correct. Aqua Advanced would be better if you were doing outside woodwork etc.
MSP ideal when you need a quick two coat system though.
Is it more of a typical satin sheen? I don't want a full gloss. Bedec's satin is a bit too matt for me.
PuGloss from Caparol is only 65% gloss level. It's a great satin finish if you want a bit more sheen than say, Everal Aqua 40
try using wet & dry as it will key the surface without leaving fine scratch marks especially old oil surfaces which can show through finish, i dont wet but use dry, there sometimes too course & griity which don't sit flat on surface unlike wet & dry 😉 also i have always argued the do panels first then top, middle bottom followed by sides, as you had here you come slightly over mouldings, then you rush to get back to it,even though you run off ? oils it don't work & leaves fatty edge unless you wipe off with white spirit if doing panels first only do up to moulding, don't have to fuss & cut in as when the flat part of door is done you can come slightly over mouldings where done previously & won't notice, no criticism mate but in 38yrs you learn things & I've always said there's more than 1 way to paint a door & back in the day with oil gloss etc they always did the panels & came over when doing mouldings & if there's 4 by the time you got to the bottom 2 anyway it started to go off & left the fatty edge, i always thinned out slightly to make easier unknown to the foreman who moaned it loses it's shine 😉 just a bit was fine
Here's the video you need.
ruclips.net/video/ZxL_YWW5wKQ/видео.html
how is the msp gloss outside applying in the sun and heat with brushmarks etc
its good paint, but as with any water based paint when dealing with heat, yo u have to change your working practice, work out the sun when you can, use something like Smith&Rogers Flow&Bond helps too. But TBH I'd use MSP on facias and under eaves etc, it's ideal paint for those areas. Quick and easy to get on and need little prep to the surface when you can only show it some sand paper and a duster brush.
Having my roof replaced on a three storey Victorian property , so have got scaffolding up . The roofer thinks I should cap over original fascias with UPVC as it’s then maintenance free ….with the cost of the scaffolding ( £1500 ) I can see his point . However I’ve read on a few forums that the Bedec is great stuff …also heard good reviews on lindseed paint . Just can’t make my mind up…would prefer to keep it original , but worried about maintenance . How long do you think this paint lasts outdoors before it ends re doing ? I’d be using a white paint .
linseed paint is a maintanace based paint, you refresh i going over it with linseed oil.. boiled linseed oil I'd of thought as that drys, raw linseed oil stays sticky.
how long is a piece of string to how long paint lasts... weather, where does the sun get it etc alters what side of teh huse can last longer.
If it's a scaffold job every time to do it, cost wise.. uPVC it.
If scaffold evry 5+ years doesn't bother you.... clean it down well... and Bedec MSP, Or Bedec BarnPaint in sodt satin or soft gloss is an option.
Orclean down really well, give one or two coats (if you've sanded and have bare wood/filler showing) of Isomat aqua AllPrimer and two top coats of Isomat isolac satin.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for your reply ….having had a sleepless night and now reading your comments …I think I’ve come to the conclusion that in seven years time when the fascias need doing again at the rate of inflation the scaffold will be 3 grand ….so much as it pains me to clad over wood I’m going to do it . I’ve kept the windows wood and they are a pain !! I wish I’d discovered your channel as I’ve just painted them in Dulux weathershield ….and now wish I’d gone water based ….but having said that it was so thick on edge parts of windows and a bugger to sand off , is it ok to go over layers of oil based with water based ?
What would it be like coverage wise on a exterior? Weathered, discolored etc white on white? Would it need an undercoat with something else to help with opacity? Cheers mate
No, two coats.. if it needed a third give it one.
Outside I prefer soft satin, it shows less imperfections
Cheers, will give it a try! Thanks great video. I’m a decorator, up north.
Would there be much of a difference with Bedec Satin white and the Soft Gloss Phil ?
Yes, one is gloss, one is satin finish
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Er thanks 🤔
Think im going to buy this as was unsure between aqua advanced or msp. Need to do rads, Skirting and staircase so makes sense. Now i do have 1930 doors i had chemically stripped by a company few years back then sanded by myself and coated in osmo oil. Would msp cover it as reading around most seem to day nothing will stick to it
using the osmo previosly has jiggered you up for painting them.. it won't adhere properly as you're going over a wax/oil.. it'll chip.
you're better using waterbased floor varnish on stripped/bare wood doors.. seen my video on painting oak veneer doors using No nonsence floor varnish?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator ill have a watch. Get the feelin im gonna have to buy new doors
Big question is it beter than valspar exterior wood and metal water based paint?
yes, it goes over more stuff and and be used inside and outside.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thank you for answering Phil
Mmmmm, Bedec.
Hey Phil, ever done a video on painting lcose to the floor, doors, skirting etc. I always cop out and end up with it looking dry as I worry about it dribbling, cheers.
Not heard of Icose before.what is it?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Dyslexia again Phill, close to the floor, skirting, bottoms of the doors etc😁
I thought you were on holiday ? Multi tasking !!
Never. Booked up till November next year.. 6 days a week.. no time for holidays
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Just going by your holiday posts on Facebook. I’m very busy. Had four enquiries this afternoon and I was on my way home from a weekend in Scotland. It’s been non stop. Holiday on Saturday for 10 days so my phone will be off !
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator sounds like a lot more than your 1700 odd hours a year 😂
@@Butlins14 lol you've watched it ;)
Cheers Phil m8
Great no nonsense review Phil. The only thing with all of these multisurface paints is the opacity isnt quiet as good as most other standard water based finishes...but thats the trade off because more of the adhesion promoting ingredients need to be added.
That said you cant base the quality of a paint on its ability to 'go in one'
Best brush to apply valti opaque and otex to a front door Phil?
All oil?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator the otex primer is not sure about valtti opaque, tikkurila recommended both 😏
you wanna try palatine msp satin and gloss Phil solvent based best gear on market they still make pre 2010 solvent paint
Oil based.... Who still uses that lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you would still rather use water based than pre 2010 oil based Phil and msp version too guaranteed at least one less coat and more durable
@@jackwardley3626 durable in what sense?
Smell, drying times, clean up. ... All for the win.
Oil.base ... Look how many outside peel and crack... All be oil oil based over the years
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I don't think clean up is any worse than a water based paint ive seen the cracking and peeling happen the same with water based paints all paints will eventually crack most of that cracking and flaking with oil based finishes was probably a standard oil gloss. A oil based MSP version would different and one less coat on a whole exterior repaint by yourself is a godsent
can i use for decking floor & the rails?
i can't see why not, but if walking on it you'll wear it off. there may be better decking paints out there to use.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks will try cuprinol
Would this be suitable on exterior bare garage doors??
Yes. I'd probably go with Bedec All Prime as a 1st coat though.
Which is better bedec msp or bradite one can for new, bare external wooden gates
@@chrisbeach44 BarnPaint
What about for furniture being sprayed been using TIKKURILA hemil 30 and otec primer.
what do you need to know?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator can you used bedec as an alternative my brother used it on some flat melamine wardrobe doors looks good but just wondering what you think? is Bedec paint ok for furniture spraying etc
yes. have you tried Everal Aqua 40 yet?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no, a Decotator mentioned to me about this but never looked into it. Just looking at I always watch the USA furniture flippers there always using enamel paint but mega pricey and brand that are not in the UK. This looks interesting wonder if it would need a coat of Polly over it on furniture? Nice one 👍
@@lifegpt i doubt it. Everal Aqua 40 is an interior exterior paint, hard wearing and sheen level is really nice
Goes over oil based paint.
still give it a sand thoough :)
Any good on brick outside ?
I's look at a masonry paint for that. I've done some vids on masonry recently
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator dont know what you mean ?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you mean masonry for outside wall paint ? Tried it dont last outside with weather like water, thats why am thinking of using gloss
Best roller make please captain
For what use?
You seen the 2 fussy Blokes videos I've done and ProDec mini rollers?
For walls and ceilings 12”
@@jeffbruce1050 9"
I meant I use purdy colossus 12”
Is there a better roller in your opinion
I.e two fussy blokes or arroworthy
It’s great stuff mate
I also found putting it on then rolling with a two fussy blokes roller give a perfect finish 👌
@@martbrown3406 I'm going to try the satin I think, did you use the smooth or semi smooth roller ?
@@interabang 5mm Nap smooth I use mate 👍🏼
Aw not this door again...
have you heard of bradite one Phil apparently thats self knotting and can go over all metals ferrous and non and recoat 1 hour apparently the white doesn't cover very well though always starts off then the old classic comes up bloody whites. these paints would destroy a pure bristle brush after a few uses
I've seen it and used a couple of sample cans a couple of years ago.
All colour waterbased paints are alot better than the whites.simple.just tell them straight.cant beat oilbased for durability and finish.stop beating around the bush
the high end water based paints are better than oil paints we have now oil based glosses eggshells aren't as durable as they used to be themselves due to restrictions on what materials can be used but oil now is still better than cheap or cheaper water paints and oil is generally cheaper which is what still makes it appealing but tinted oil based paints take a absolute age to dry hard nowadays