Lessons from my first World Cup (BOULDERING)
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- Опубликовано: 25 апр 2021
- I recently went to my first world cup, the bouldering competition in Meiringen. It didn't go as well as it could have, but it also went better than expected. In this episode I go through some of the lessons I learned along the way!
The event was absolutely amazing and well organized, so thank you to both the IFSC and Meiringen.
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Dude. You went to a World Cup. That's pretty dope already.
Thanks homie! Looking at the mountains waiting for the next climb in between the boulders was quite the experience, I have to say. A bit surreal almost, like "what the hell am I doing here?" whilst simultaneously feeling like I was exactly where I belonged
You should start a series where you show your training leading up to your next World Cup! You could kinda highlight a few workouts from each session and do like a weekly summery
Its crazy to me that such a strong outdoor climber who can do slab outdoor without hands still has to work on his feet. Progress in climbing really is limitless.
I definitely agree! It's that limitless part that keeps me hooked :-)
Competition boulders with the limited time is no ioke
@@EmilAbrahamsson Yeah that and the awesome community. :)
You can actually see him being nervous and messing it up. I’m surprised it’s not more common in semi-finals and finals.
Wow, this video is an education in itself. Even as someone who could never be at competition level, climbing is such a mind game, and it's so interesting to hear these details of your mental as well as physical journey. You can achieve a lot even without reaching the top.
Most definitely yes, climbing is quite the mind game
I don´t even know you personally, but I am still so proud of you :D
I´ve been watching Eric´s vids for so long now (and yours as soon as you started having your own channel) and seeing you compete in that World Cup was so cool and I really got hyped when it was your turn! Great self reflection, I´m sure you´ll get even better and crush the next World Cup ;)
agreed
Thanks for the kind comment! I truly appreciate the support, I do
@@EmilAbrahamsson you´re welcome :) Should you ever be in Germany, I´d love to have a chill boulder session with you and invite you to some good beer :D
Your positive attitude and willingness to learn is so valuable! Excited to see you crush the next comp!
It’s honestly weird to see you not top the routes, I’m just so used to you crushing everything
Haha well that's good to hear. We gotta start documenting more of my sessions though, it's like 98% falling after all (but on hard moves on the chaos board)
Thoroughly enjoyed watching your breakdown of each boulder Emil. Love how introspective you are. Thanks for letting us into your world like that!
What a bomb attitude and great analysis! These skills will get you far and you'll have fun on the way too. Grattis for the first world cup!
So stoked for you! Competition itself is a process. Don’t let this result deter you from making progress!! Can’t wait to see you crushing in a finals.
Thank you for your vulnerability with this video. Seems like you weren’t dealt a great deck for this comp with being sick before hand but just getting to go and have the chance to learn is freakin awesome. I bet the next one is going to go so much better! Just getting there is incredibly keep crushing!!🔥🔥
This was really great! A good, honest recollection of your experience and lessons that we can all take on board in our own climbing. Thanks!
Congrats Emil! I've been eagerly waiting to hear your thoughts about the competition. Stoked to see you in Insbruck (and not after having COVID)... You're gonna crush. Thanks for sharing your reflections -- this is one climbing experience most of us will never be a part of.
That was super interesting Emil... I loved the insight into the comp climber mindset.
Dude it's amazing you were in the world cup!! What an incredible achievement. Congrats!! So proud of you xx
Just what I needed! Reaylly interesting to see the process and how you learn and prepare mentally as well as physically.
Good and honest competition feedback. Great stuff!
I was thinking, while you mentioned the problems you faced, that this is why I love watching Akiyo Noguchi climb. She just takes it slow but analises the problem very thoroughly. It's so satisfying.
Keep up the good work. Stay strong
Thanks for sharing this, Emil. These are some useful tips for competitions, but also for bouldering in general. It's nice to hear your self-reflection and analysis process.
I waited so badly for your world-cup video!!
If I was you I would be soooo hyped for training right now! When you feel frustration just eat it, feed on it and convert it into muscles and a mind set of steel!
You are my favorite climber and a true role model when it comes to training and self-reflection. Thank you very much for sharing so many of your thoughts, at least to me it means a lot :)
great video. looking forward to see you in your next World Cup!
Nicely done dude. Glad you're recovering well enough from Covid, stoked as always for the killer content!
Thanks for sharing your experience at the World Cup and the things you can learn from it! Like most things, some of these things you will work out simply with more World Cup experiences. Though, it is great that you are taking the time to think about and analyze what could have gone better and, hopefully, you remember any of the things that went well too.
Lesson 13: just have fun doing some unique boulders! :)
Definitely a good lesson!
As an aspiring local comp climber from the UT Austin team (over in Texas, USA) your tips were super helpful and I feel like I've learned a lot through your experience at the world cup! Personally, I feel like I struggle with the same things as you like nerves and not trusting myself/style, especially whilst in a comp setting (I feel so so so much more strong and comfortable just climbing hard at my home gym). So, your tips about how to train these aspects of your climbing were SUPER helpful for me and they're much much much appreciated :) THANK YOU EMIL FROM TEXAS
The problem getting to the WC as an American is that the selection process for allocated slots is so tough because of huge numbers of climbers in the US.
@@epincion oh yeah for sure, I don't really aspire to represent the US on a national level (yet ;) ) but more so compete in regional or maybe national collegiate competitions here in the US. Sorry for the confusion!
Love the comp talk, keep it coming! It was really cool to see your name up on the scoreboard, no matter what place. You’re going to crush the next one when you’re not dealing with COVID!
Dude, this is awesome! Amazing experience for sure and just amazing that you are that good to compete in a world comp. Like....the entire world, comp. its nuts dude! :) Plus Jakob Schubert didn’t even make it to semis so that competition must of been rough! Chin up dude duderson and keep at it. 💪
Great insights :) Who doesn't love a good analysis. Keep it up!
Learning really is the meta skill. Enjoyed hearing your takeaways!
I didn't even know you qualified to go to a World Cup! Congrats Emil! I hope you have more success in the upcoming competitions and make more videos about what you learned! Even a short quick video about your experience at each competition for 2021 would be awesome. It's a totally different perspective I haven't heard and it's super inspiring.
Oh boy I’ve been updating RUclips every 2 mins since you made that Instagram post, so psyched to see you post again!!
Haha thanks for that, I appreciate the support! Good hype
Its so amazing and humbling to see you do all those crazy boulders in your episodes, all the training you do, climbing is your life, making the beastmaker2000 see like a toy and then comparing it to those people that make semifinals, finals and win. They all must be INSANE, like in every possible way. Shines a really bright and unreal light on Janja Garnbret.
Still Youre doing a great job and maybe with the right mindset (I think you have the power, maybe more flexibility?) we will see you in semifinals. Lookin forward to see Matt groom to chat about you in the commentary box :D
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on your competition . Really enjoyed cheering for you !
Thanks!
Wow. You went to a WC !! That's so dope ! So happy for you mate
can't wait to follow your progress on the next one ! keep it up man !
If nothing else, your efforts were inspirational. I also had a battle with COVID, and the thought of climbing merely weeks later (in a competition, no less) seems insane in itself. You’ve got all the intangibles and a great sense of self awareness. Looking forward to watching your progression.
Loved this video, can't wait to see you in your first finals! ^^
Million subscribers content right here, man I'm going to share your channel with as many people as I can
Hey mate thanks a ton for the kind comment! I really appreciate it :-)
Love your positivity! I have a broken wrist and I'm also trying not to be "pissy because I don't get to climb" haha! Can't wait to see you on the next comps! Go crush them!
Thanks for sharing all of those valuable thoughts! Really looking forward to the vid about your next world cup ;-)
Just being good enough to get on the team is a great thing in itself 👏
Good job man, keep up the great work!
You're amazing Emil ? It's awesome you went to the world cup!! 💯💯
Getting into competition climbing and this is super useful information!
Lesson #5 😂 Great video Emil, crazy that you went to a world cup!! Props to you for still competing despite everything 🤙💪
Thanks! Better to try and fail than to never have tried at all :-)
Thanks for sharing those experiences and insights. Seing sombody crush it is kind of inspiring but this was really useful! I'm a total rookie myself but think the "Read it well and then give it your everything" is a thing for me to try as well.
i'm really happy for you! can't wait to see you on the next Olympic games :D
Enjoy the process man!
amazing video !!
it would be awesome if you would make a video about how and when you started climbing and your progression to become as strong as you are today !!!
keep up the good work dude
Oh my god that boulder at 8:40 is sickkk! The body tension is epic wow dude!
Love the sports psychology behind the comp!
Haha same here ;) such an awesome part of competitions, really cool to analyze and reflect on
Well done Emil, nice one 👍 Have fun at the next one 🥳
Bravo! ... you just flashed your best video so far!! ... there's the reason for grueling training!! ... your subscribers and fans also learn far more when everything is on the line and you DON'T send a boulder ... so maybe when you train, don't only choose powerful boulders you can flash ... choose nasty small crimps and tiny footholds that require balance and hip control and technique where you fall off 10 times before you get the starting beta ... in all the boulder comp vids I've watched, men and women, the opening sequence is often the crux ... and for extra tall dudes, they force you into small boxes ... show us you and Cordy practising that stuff!!! Farmer John, Ontario Canada
Cheers for the insight, Emil. I want to enter a competition at my local gym in June and your tips are noted!
Also top quality video man.
Really nice video. I liked the format. Its cool that you share your thoughts and the lesson learned - cause you usually don't get to hear about these insights as a typical "regular human being" boulderer. I was following you on the livestream but it was sometimes hard to see anything because of the quality. Good luck in Innsbruck, I am sure you will enjoy it as well.
So great to hear your positive takeaway from your first world cup. I looked out for you, watching the qualifications, but I could barely see anything in that camera-overview. Nice to see your performance up close. :) Oh and I noticed many men doing the same starting-mistake on Boulder 5 - so I guess it was not that obvious to realize there were two volumes...
Great lessons. I think especially the last one i try to implement even as an average climber that will likely never compete at any level. Its what I call the magnus midtbo mindset. If you watch magnus climb, train or try new things, especially challenges, he can push himself way harder than most people do. He never half-asses something, but instead gives everything he has no matter how much it hurts. If you take that to a difficult climb you'll likely do better than you think, even if its because you're muscling your way through rather than using the best technique, I think it has the best improvements doing it that way, and you can clean up your technique once you know you can do it, just to learn to do it better.
The videos where you analyze your comp videos are really cool
I was cheering you on big time. Gonna crush it in June.
Wow congrats on the fact that you were able to do some of the moves on pretty much every boulder, and that you get to be a part of the world cup. Innsbruck is amazing, I'd love to have an excuse to go there and climb. Hopefully the pressure isn't too overbearing. Till next time
That was pretty rad.
Great insight!!
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I appreciate your videos.
Thank you for appreciating them!
Thanks for your honesty.
I loved the video.
My tip......hit up the wide boyz for some tips for the inevitable crack problem you'll definitely be facing in next year's final round 👍🏻
Had a long conversation with Pete two days ago. Mad stuff coming up, mad I tell you!
@@EmilAbrahamsson Tor is gonna be so jealous 😂
The cray cometh
@@SelcraigClimbs going full paddle flipperoo
You have so much potential in the mental game :)
Congrats man, if you’re competing in a World Cup you’ve already won in my opinion. You’re only going to get better. Nice work.
You have the perfect attitude and I bet your gonna kill it next time ✌🏼🍻
Great insight! I would be curious what it's like just being on the national team and the process behind the scenes such as travel, teamwork prep and warm-ups the day of etc.
I think lesson 9 is super important in a competition setting. Mental fatigue is very real and is often what costs people. The best competitor is always the one who trains and turns up to win and fears not winning. Pyshical training should be food for the mental game, if you turn up thinking you coulda trained harder you've already lost. Will power has to be trained at this level - which is a crazy awesome level to be at btw.
Huge respect for going to a world cup man, glad you can learn from it and grow :)
P.S. It's always frustrating when you're good at something and you try another aspect of it and you don't feel as good at it (i.e. stuff like competition climbing, maybe crack climbing, speed climbing?). Your ego definitely takes a hit there :D
For the first boulder, it really helps if you can just scrunch up comfortably and essentially open up your hips enough to not feel like you're falling backwards all the time. For me it's mostly hip flexibility, mobility to lift your leg while being that close to the wall, and learning to flow over small footholds and shift your centre of gravity intuitively to apply pressure where you need to. Try sitting in a wide deep squat and moving around in that position for a few minutes every day, that and some frog stretches really helped me get better on those slabs.
I used to play to play a ton of league and other games too, untill I started climbing. The gaming kept up but at least it became more balanced as I had to juggle it with climbing aswell. Now I have been climbing for 3 years and recently sent my first 7B+ (boulder). No plans or goals on ever climbing competitively but I will feel ecstatic when I send my first 7C and even more so if I ever topple an 8A.
You should document (and most certainly try) every competition you can. This kind of inside view is not available right now, so it would be really valuable, and also entertaining.
And as a side note, there's potential for real progression, that would be nice to see too. I'm looking forward to like a "lessons from my tenth world cup" video in which you get to the semifinals :D.
Aside from the issues and things you mentioned, I think by far your biggest weakness is route reading. A lot of climbs you do you seem to break or do incorrectly on the first few tries (I recall seeing this during some of your comp simulations). Maybe that is something you could practice, I could be wrong though always hard to tell through videos. Great work Emil!
I'm eager for the day I hear your name in the Semi-Finals and Finals for a World Cup!
Also, I had a compound fracture on my leg a month ago and I don't know if I can ever get back to climbing. A lot of fear and uncertainty now, if I'm being honest.
I look forward to seeing you train slab
OMG there will be jamming in the next video!
Would love to see you climb at the world cups on Salt Lake City in may!
would you be welling to make videos of your training sessions that will lead to June's competition? A kind of ''Road to'' vlog? Don't need to be a masterpiece of editing neither haha just asking! keep it up Emil!
I'd love to see this too
A great idea! I'll start drafting up some ideas :-)
Just watched Storror vid Now Emil, great end to Monday
Coool! Grattis! WC baby! Simulerad tävling i kommande video möjligen? Lycka till vidare! You can do it!
Really like this content! Hope to see more of what you learn in future comps.
What brand/model were the other pair of shoes you mentioned? The non-drones that are really good on volumes?
Thanks Emil, that was interesting and great to see the qualification boulder set that you climbed. Impressed you got 4 zones - WC is hard.
I watched the semi and final and it was so nice to have IFSC back. How did Hannes and Fredrik do?
Learning the value in multiple shoes will be huge as not all shoes accel on all climbs. You want a more supportive shoe on slabs (not necessarily stiff but definitely not soft). I think that experimenting with shoes if possible will really help you. I’d also look at what the top climbers are climbing in and try to mimic that as reinventing the wheel is never necessary and if they have a recipe that works, maybe the same thing could work for you. Great job though on your first World Cup.
Congrats on your first WC. It's more than most climbers will ever achieve. Very nice. On a site note. What brand is your fleece? It looks very cool and warm. Hope to see you in more competitions!
It's from the company weekday! Dont think they make it anymore though :/
Are you coming to the Salt Lake City world cups? I might have to make the drive out from Colorado to watch.
Sorry to hear you were a little disappointed with your results, but it’s great to see how well you’re reflecting on them. :)
Are you going to the next comp in SLC?
Not this one unfortunately, but maybe next year!
@@EmilAbrahamsson Nooooo! :( Ah well. Good luck on whatever one is next for you.
Trying hard is something you need to learn, and by you I mean everyone. t was your first world cup, it's all about learning tactics and relaxing
thanks for sharing
Congrats on the World Cup! Pretty sure 15 years old gamer version of you would be impressed ;) If I may: seems to me you reflect a lot on “mental game” points in your video but conclude on plans for physical shape... So what’s your plan to train mental game? Anyhow, I’ll cheer for you in June!
The rule with the starting holds was changed recently. Before that it was that all holds touching the starting hold can be used also.
I think they wanted to avoid the "are the holds really touching each other"-discussions.
Maybe some stiffer shoes would help on tiny foot crimps? 🙂 I'm 194cm so stiff shoes and all that reach makes slabs my favorite routes
Well, zones on a World Cup is nothing to sneeze at :) I see the part to the zones as "Mini Boulders" inside of bigger boulders, since I usually only make it to the zone in comps. And it feels like quite an achievement to me, if I get the zone on more than half the boulders.
Nice! See you in Innsbruck ^^'
Does your competition (Adam Ondra and other elites) factor into your approach? I cant help but notice a timid approach to the climbs, you’re usually so locked in! Congrats on making it there tho, you’re living a dream
Are you going to be climbing in the World Cup in Salt Lake City, US ?
Are you coming to Salt Lake for the competitions in May?
would you say to overlooked the mental/psychological training for a world cup?
that v0 at the end looks sandbagged
VB in my gym, bro