Another great video. I do think showing more of the models supported would have been helpful. But I also appreciate how succinct your video are. Many other people seem to pad their videos with nonsense or are unfocused, when I just want to learn how to get things done. This one is laser focused and got me back experimenting quickly and with more confidence. Thanks!
Amazing video as usual. A lot of it is based around things I use daily so its great to get more education on some of it. I would love to see some more tutorials based around model bases (Large and small) I print a lot of 1:6 scale models so they generally come with large detailed base structures.
@@JerryBWagoner It's better to oversupport than under support, but I've got some advice for you. After you print an object, open up the.lys scene and compare the physical print to the way you supported it and make any adjustments. Do this even if you plan on never printing the object again, this is the fastest way to learn that correct balance.
I susally start there but it has the annoying habit of putting supports right in the face of a figure. Orienting first and then doing auto-support seems to work better.
I can't believe how many people will just tilt parts 45° and generate a ton of supports. Thanks for the PSA, this rule really messed with people's brains.
Yes I've never understood it. Unless you're printing a box it's always 45d to what? So that's why instead I'm looking to get the object to be it's own support by looking for gemotety strong shapes and keeping a higher priority surface away from the build plate. A bit of a mouth full but hey it works.
@@J3DTech I think they understood the 45° rule as a "best case" when it's actually the worst, 45° is just the upper limit where everything should be as vertical as possible.
I would say there is one case where that rule can apply, when you're printing a base, especially round ones, because you absolutly don't care about support damage at the bottom of the base, and printing it verticaly could mess with the round shape.
@@vincentlelong3106 I agree. I actually print my bases on less than a 45 so that the top of it comes out a little bit more cleanly. Yeah it requires more supports and the bottom is a little bit more damaged. But like you said no one sees it or what I really do is I just put it on a diamond sanding plate and in about 20 seconds it's polished flat.
@@pantwearer Due to a RUclips stuff we try to keep these videos relatively short and so I did have some stuff set up to record more on the engineering but I ended up not doing it simply just because of the time restraints. But if you load up Colts3D and you look for j3dTech you'll see all my models. One of my bottles is this big robot with like 350 pieces. Download that file and load it in lychee even if you aren't planning on printing it. Just load it up and look and see how I've got things orientated. A lot of the tolerances in that robot are 0.02 mm - 0.1mm and you'll see how I overcame a lot of these challenges just by looking at that scene.
I want to learn some tricks for adding support optimally to a model. Are there tips for determining when support is sufficient or if I need to add more? I'm also interested in how to approach adding supports on diverse surfaces, similar to the techniques covered in this video that address various model orientations.
You can check our previous video on supporting, we did a lot, and more are coming! I would recommend the ''Support for the first time" and other of our livestream here on youtube :D
Welcome! Printing parallel to the build plate is more likely to fail than printing at an angle, it makes a bigger cross section to pull out of the fep, the smaller the cross section the better :)
@ Thanks. Loving the vids btw , I’ve been a 3D printer for a couple of years now , mainly wheels/tyres/body parts for 1/24 scale cars. I bumble my way thru Lychee so these vids kinda vindicate what I have found over time. I was interested to hear the final section of the vid where you printed your m/cycle wheels and tyres parallel to the build plate - I have done this for a while now and find the accuracy and ‘roundness’ is improved, compared with printing at an angle.
Question person running this video. Do you think the auto orientation and auto support functionality are good in the software? I use it all the time due to time and lack of knowledge. Yet I get lots of fails.
I unsderstant that we dont have to put the pieces parallels to the platform. But i dont get why.. why when we do put the pieces parallels, they make a kind of belly in it?
Easy explanation. The supports create a mess. The suction makes it fall off the build plate. The way you place it can cause severe problems from being uneven to just looking horrible to completely failing and breaking your lcd.
It has a really uncanny ability to find the most detailed parts of your model - the parts you care about the most - and orient them downwards to be covered with supports.
I have had Lychee Pro for 3 months. I am quite savvy with tech, but for me, Lychee is proving to be quite non-intuitive. I have spent 2 days trying to learn positioning, holes, suction cups and hollowing. Please slow the website documentation videos down, and take into account beginners at both printing, and Lychee. For instance, your video on hollowing shows you rapidly clicking all over the software screen to move the model around and showing different views and I can’t determine what is happening. Thank you
Hi, thanks for your feedback! We will keep that in mind in our next videos! In the mean time you can check our live Support for the First time, it's more beginner friendly :)
@ I appreciate you paying attention to my difficulties. Since I wrote that, I have found some few beginner videos, but I still had my first failure of a print after three months of printing, because it was the first time I tried to place holes. For the life of me, I could not find instructions how to make sure the hole was flush with the bottom of the figure. They ended up extruding beyond the bottom and it caused the print to fail. Where can I find instructions on how physically to place holes with my mouse on lined up with the bottom of the model? Thank you🙂
Really. I am absolutely not tech savvy and Lychee has been a lifer saver for me. I do know when you hollow and create suction cups. If your hole is too big off placement or wrong it will be red, I just make it smaller and move on. This is just me though
@@Wood-In-My-Eye thank you. What I cannot determine is how to place the hole. As I’m moving it around the graphic keeps flipping on its side and then up again and then on its side and I cannot figure out what it is doing. Nor is the instruction clear about where to place the hole. I wish there were a function where I could click where I need to hold to be and it would just do it based on the thickness of the walls and the angle of orientation of the miniature.
I would pay all money for some magic always correct and optimum orientation functionality in Lychee. I know, there is "magic" and auto orientation - but often it gives far from optimum results.
@@kszyh_ The way the magic button works is it looks at the direction of all the polygons in the model and tries to find where most of them are at a 45. If you've got a very complex model, this is going to be rather impossible. We are thinking about having an enhancement to the tool where you can Mark a location as high priority and it will prioritize that being facing away from the build plate. But as of right now, knowing this information should help you quite quickly orientate your models in the best way possible.
Even if you used AI to orient the models, you'd still have to know how to do it yourself so you could make sure it didn't make a mistake. Because - spoiler alert - AI makes mistakes. Constantly.
@@Martial-Mat It's a tough one. First, the AI would have to be trained on all the different types of models out there shapes and surfaces so they would have to be able to understand if something is a face. You will probably have to understand when the model is assembled. What surfaces were internal versus external in order to make the correct judgment. Of course this is all possible. It would just require so much computing power and since slicers run on local machines, I think your local machine might crash trying to run the AI.
Orientated or oriented? He keeps saying "orientate", "orientated" and "orientating" and it should be "orient", "oriented" and "orienting", right?? Am i wrong on this?
They're two versions of words for the same thing. Orient has more meanings and usages, but orient and orientate in this context and the related conjugations are synonymous.
@@Traitorman.25th i think the object is now "oriented" in a specific way. Orientated isn't right i dont think, but now I'm second guessing myself. Is it actually a dictionary word?
Another great video. I do think showing more of the models supported would have been helpful. But I also appreciate how succinct your video are. Many other people seem to pad their videos with nonsense or are unfocused, when I just want to learn how to get things done. This one is laser focused and got me back experimenting quickly and with more confidence. Thanks!
Thanks so much for your feedback! So glad you enjoyed it!
This was really interesting! Besides orientation, I learned how to use a few Lychee tools I had not used before.
Thanks! So glad you've learn more!
Amazing video as usual. A lot of it is based around things I use daily so its great to get more education on some of it. I would love to see some more tutorials based around model bases (Large and small) I print a lot of 1:6 scale models so they generally come with large detailed base structures.
Thanks! Great ideas for future videos, we'll definitely do it!
Awesome video. The deeper i get into supports the more I think that I may over support sometimes. I guess I have FOUS (fear of under supporting). 😊
@@JerryBWagoner It's better to oversupport than under support, but I've got some advice for you. After you print an object, open up the.lys scene and compare the physical print to the way you supported it and make any adjustments.
Do this even if you plan on never printing the object again, this is the fastest way to learn that correct balance.
Thank you for another great video.
@@MrHarold Thank you very much! If there's anything you ever want to see or learn more about, let us know!
I usually autosupport with Lychee and it does an okay job. sometimes its brutal how many supports there are but it pretty reliable.
I susally start there but it has the annoying habit of putting supports right in the face of a figure. Orienting first and then doing auto-support seems to work better.
Nice one ❤
thanks!
Muchas gracias mas videos así de como usar lychee
I can't believe how many people will just tilt parts 45° and generate a ton of supports. Thanks for the PSA, this rule really messed with people's brains.
Yes I've never understood it. Unless you're printing a box it's always 45d to what? So that's why instead I'm looking to get the object to be it's own support by looking for gemotety strong shapes and keeping a higher priority surface away from the build plate.
A bit of a mouth full but hey it works.
@@J3DTech I think they understood the 45° rule as a "best case" when it's actually the worst, 45° is just the upper limit where everything should be as vertical as possible.
I would say there is one case where that rule can apply, when you're printing a base, especially round ones, because you absolutly don't care about support damage at the bottom of the base, and printing it verticaly could mess with the round shape.
@@vincentlelong3106 I agree. I actually print my bases on less than a 45 so that the top of it comes out a little bit more cleanly. Yeah it requires more supports and the bottom is a little bit more damaged. But like you said no one sees it or what I really do is I just put it on a diamond sanding plate and in about 20 seconds it's polished flat.
That's because Lychess' Thomas also tells you to do that. So they contradict each other.... ruclips.net/video/bAUnyNF7qkk/видео.html
Do you have a preference on build plate location for certain prints?
I mostly just avoid the edges and if I have multiple objects I try to balance the weight and height.
Do you have more info on orienting and supporting engineering parts that require tight tolerances?
@@pantwearer Due to a RUclips stuff we try to keep these videos relatively short and so I did have some stuff set up to record more on the engineering but I ended up not doing it simply just because of the time restraints.
But if you load up Colts3D and you look for j3dTech you'll see all my models. One of my bottles is this big robot with like 350 pieces. Download that file and load it in lychee even if you aren't planning on printing it. Just load it up and look and see how I've got things orientated.
A lot of the tolerances in that robot are 0.02 mm - 0.1mm and you'll see how I overcame a lot of these challenges just by looking at that scene.
We'll do a video focus on engineering parts! :)
I want to learn some tricks for adding support optimally to a model. Are there tips for determining when support is sufficient or if I need to add more? I'm also interested in how to approach adding supports on diverse surfaces, similar to the techniques covered in this video that address various model orientations.
You can check our previous video on supporting, we did a lot, and more are coming! I would recommend the ''Support for the first time" and other of our livestream here on youtube :D
New subscriber to the channel , what is the ‘parallel to the build plate ‘ problem you reference in this, please
Welcome! Printing parallel to the build plate is more likely to fail than printing at an angle, it makes a bigger cross section to pull out of the fep, the smaller the cross section the better :)
@ Thanks. Loving the vids btw , I’ve been a 3D printer for a couple of years now , mainly wheels/tyres/body parts for 1/24 scale cars. I bumble my way thru Lychee so these vids kinda vindicate what I have found over time. I was interested to hear the final section of the vid where you printed your m/cycle wheels and tyres parallel to the build plate - I have done this for a while now and find the accuracy and ‘roundness’ is improved, compared with printing at an angle.
Question person running this video. Do you think the auto orientation and auto support functionality are good in the software? I use it all the time due to time and lack of knowledge. Yet I get lots of fails.
It helps to get started :)
I unsderstant that we dont have to put the pieces parallels to the platform. But i dont get why.. why when we do put the pieces parallels, they make a kind of belly in it?
The larger cross section to detach from the fep, the more chance for a fail :)
Easy explanation. The supports create a mess. The suction makes it fall off the build plate. The way you place it can cause severe problems from being uneven to just looking horrible to completely failing and breaking your lcd.
How trustworthy is the magic auto orientation feature?
none
It has a really uncanny ability to find the most detailed parts of your model - the parts you care about the most - and orient them downwards to be covered with supports.
I have had Lychee Pro for 3 months. I am quite savvy with tech, but for me, Lychee is proving to be quite non-intuitive. I have spent 2 days trying to learn positioning, holes, suction cups and hollowing. Please slow the website documentation videos down, and take into account beginners at both printing, and Lychee. For instance, your video on hollowing shows you rapidly clicking all over the software screen to move the model around and showing different views and I can’t determine what is happening. Thank you
Hi, thanks for your feedback! We will keep that in mind in our next videos! In the mean time you can check our live Support for the First time, it's more beginner friendly :)
@ I appreciate you paying attention to my difficulties. Since I wrote that, I have found some few beginner videos, but I still had my first failure of a print after three months of printing, because it was the first time I tried to place holes. For the life of me, I could not find instructions how to make sure the hole was flush with the bottom of the figure. They ended up extruding beyond the bottom and it caused the print to fail. Where can I find instructions on how physically to place holes with my mouse on lined up with the bottom of the model? Thank you🙂
Really. I am absolutely not tech savvy and Lychee has been a lifer saver for me. I do know when you hollow and create suction cups. If your hole is too big off placement or wrong it will be red, I just make it smaller and move on. This is just me though
@@Wood-In-My-Eye thank you. What I cannot determine is how to place the hole. As I’m moving it around the graphic keeps flipping on its side and then up again and then on its side and I cannot figure out what it is doing. Nor is the instruction clear about where to place the hole. I wish there were a function where I could click where I need to hold to be and it would just do it based on the thickness of the walls and the angle of orientation of the miniature.
I would pay all money for some magic always correct and optimum orientation functionality in Lychee. I know, there is "magic" and auto orientation - but often it gives far from optimum results.
@@kszyh_ The way the magic button works is it looks at the direction of all the polygons in the model and tries to find where most of them are at a 45.
If you've got a very complex model, this is going to be rather impossible. We are thinking about having an enhancement to the tool where you can Mark a location as high priority and it will prioritize that being facing away from the build plate.
But as of right now, knowing this information should help you quite quickly orientate your models in the best way possible.
@@J3DTech I'm looking forward to it.
Blows my mind that this technology is still so complicated. Jeez, if ever there was a time to get AI involved, it's here.
Great point!
If your job gets easier, you're about to lose it.
@@Francois_Le_Blendeur Ha ha - but printing 3D models is a hobby not a job!
Even if you used AI to orient the models, you'd still have to know how to do it yourself so you could make sure it didn't make a mistake. Because - spoiler alert - AI makes mistakes. Constantly.
@@Martial-Mat It's a tough one. First, the AI would have to be trained on all the different types of models out there shapes and surfaces so they would have to be able to understand if something is a face. You will probably have to understand when the model is assembled. What surfaces were internal versus external in order to make the correct judgment.
Of course this is all possible. It would just require so much computing power and since slicers run on local machines, I think your local machine might crash trying to run the AI.
Yeah print time. New to resin. I’m learning since the post processing takes a lot of time …. Speed isn’t really a benefit. Unlike fdm printing.
Yeah sometimes slower for better quality is the go to solution :D
Orientated or oriented? He keeps saying "orientate", "orientated" and "orientating" and it should be "orient", "oriented" and "orienting", right?? Am i wrong on this?
They're two versions of words for the same thing. Orient has more meanings and usages, but orient and orientate in this context and the related conjugations are synonymous.
I would probably orient it in a specific way, and now the object is orientated in that direction.
@@Traitorman.25th i think the object is now "oriented" in a specific way. Orientated isn't right i dont think, but now I'm second guessing myself. Is it actually a dictionary word?