Hand Cut Dovetails Made Easy (In Real Time)
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- Hand Cut Dovetails Made Easy - (In Real Time) In this video Rob demonstrates in real shop time how quick and easy hand cut dovetails can be. Rob's new approach method allows 90% of beginners to make perfect hand cut dovetails on their first try! This is a companion video to our Hand Cut Dovetails Made Easy - A New Approach. This video shows you what cutting the dovetail looks like in real shop time while the other video teaches you how to easy cutting a dovetail joint van be. You are going to love hand cut dovetails made easy.
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* HAND CUT DOVETAIL MADE EASY - A NEW APPROACH (2020): • How to Cut Dovetails b...
TOOLS ROB USES:
* DOVETAIL SAW:robcosman.com/...
* MARKING GAUGES:robcosman.com/...
* FRET SAW: robcosman.com/...
* DOVETAIL MARKING KINFE: robcosman.com/...
* DOVETAIL MARKER: robcosman.com/...
* DIVIDERS: robcosman.com/...
* 6-IINCH COMBINATION SQUARE: robcosman.com/...
* 1/4 INCH IBC CHISEL: robcosman.com/...
* 1/2 INCH IBC CHISEL: robcosman.com/...
* SKEW BLOCK PLANE: www.lie-nielse...
* ROB'S ONLINE WORKSHOP - robcosman.com/...
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I see a Rob video now, I click to watch, no questions asked.
Hi Borescope....I saw your PHP application. Thanks for watching and commenting on the video
RobCosman.com well, hopefully that means I’ll hear back from y’all soon. I didn’t want to ask if y’all went and looked it over, figured that would be rude.
dovetail saw... $100
skew block plane... $300
marking gauge... $75
dovetail marking knife... $62
woodriver bench plane... $200
A shop with decent lighting... priceless!
Awesome demo!
we installed 5000 lumin LEDs everywhere
Now that was a really SUPERB lesson in dovetailing. Thank you Rob
Thanks for watching and commenting
I never get tired of watching you do this Rob. 2 -1/2 years after learning this from you, I have cut a few thousand and have never varied from your method. I say with humility that I can count on one hand the number of times they didn't turn out near-perfect.
After 40 plus years woodworking I have always stayed away from dovetails. After this video I think I may be able to do it! Thanks Rob!
I learn something new every time I watch
this was most helpful
Always a treat to watch Rob cut a dovetail!!!
Since I have seen your dovetails I am sure it is ! 😂 (Don't worry folks Anmed is a good friend and cuts awesome dovetails)
Well done.
Been building furniture for 36 years but have never done hand dove tails , restoring a 1800's desk made in Germany, I had to review your video many times, thanks for technology. you do a great of explaining the procedures, Thanks Rob.
The quality of camera work and lighting is some of the best you've ever done.
Thanks....I will let Jake know
You are a magician when it comes to wood! Thanks Rob !
Thanks as always for your support, Daniel. See ya on the live episode.
Appreciate the instruction and motivation. Practice. Practice. Practice.
You bet! Thanks David!
HVALA VELIKA!
I liked this video. Showing real time operations with no cuts is one of the most appreciable aspects of this channel. I learn more from a master moving in his shop than from super perfect stylish video makers. Great!
Glad you liked it! we have more details coming soon
Very nice instruction
Piece of cake? I like cake, not as much as I like pie, but I still like it. If I could eat dovetails for dessert though I would. That's how much I like cutting dovetails. And it's all thanks to your informative videos that have given me the ability to train my hand and eye to cut them. Thanks Rob.
That's awesome. send me a picture of your dovetails to robswebmaster@robcosman.com......apple pie is the only way to go
I never get tired of seeing you do this, Rob~! Excellent tutorial~! Magician? Maybe. Maestro? Definitely~!! :-)
Abracadabra !
This is a MASTERCLASS! thanks Rob!
Ps. A very very good teacher too🤷♂️🙂😃👌
Thx
No matter how many times I watch Rob demo his technique, I enjoy like it was my first time! I have to confess Rob - I removed a pin recently. I was on my first of 100 dovetails for a 10-drawer parts cabinet (5 dovetails each side - front only). It had been a month or so since I last cut dovetails and I had become complacent about marking the waste. Duh! For any skeptics out there (you know, who you are "well, Rob, of course YOU can do it that fast and with perfection -- you HAVE been doing this for about a million years) After that warm up mistake, I got into a rhythm and completed the hand tool work on each drawer (10 'perfect' dovetails each) in about 20 minutes, and I'm no Rob Cosman. It was just 9 months ago I cut my first while attending a Training the Hand Workshop with Rob and team. Do this and you too will never test fit a dovetail joint again. Pure joy.
Cutting off the pin, isn't that a round of free beer for everyone?????
@@RobCosmanWoodworking YES! My first order of business once groundhog day is over
Outstanding Rob. Always a pleasure to watch your methods.
Superb!
Thanks a lot!
you know....i never even thought of using a square on the working piece of wood and how that reinforces good technique - thanks for revealing this to me
New, part-time woodworker. Without a doubt, easiest, most accurate method. Especially when you don't do it very often! Even works with my big-box tools.
Next purchase, one of Rob's saws and a marking knife
Thanks Rob and crew for all you do
You will be amazed how much easier it will be with my dovetail saw.
That's awesome, didn't think it was even possible to get them done that quick!
Watch my 3-1/2 minute speed dovetials
if you are running low on ideas for "how to" videos, i would love to see a pared down version of your tilt out saw holders that are part of your mobile tool cabinet please. thanks again for the beautiful saw
That's a Great idea. I will put that on the list
I like the measuring the saw tip. Thanks
Glad to help...are you able to consistently make the tolerance?
Thanks for taking the time to make this and show how quick and easy it is to make dovetails. Made it look super easy. That saw was like a razor cutting through the wood.
Looking for the next video and more inspiration
Glad it was helpful! I think we are going to do a deep dive into sawing next
amazing
My first order from Rob arrived today, it's time for maple syrup tomorrow morning.
WARNING.....its addictive
Hello Rob!
Well, it's just aerobatics ...! :)
Again a standing ovation and I take off my hat to your skill. :)
Thank you very much.
I'm going to train to do a dovetail. :)
Take care of yourself there.
Thank you too for watching. Now go do some dovetails
That was beautiful!!
👏😉
That was master level craftsmanship you’re a guy who obviously knows what the hell he’s doing it’s great to see that I hope I can get to making dovetails that good someday it definitely gives me something to shoot for
best week ever for my dovetails! i finally got my LN right skew block plane and my 3rd cosmanized marking guage. the biggest thing though, is i also got a Cosman dovetail saw!!! what a huge difference that one tool makes. i had my brother do a blind test between a veritas and a Cosman saw. he's a computer engineer. not only did he immidiately notice a huge difference but he was able to cut a respectable first ever dovetail in pine. i wish i had been smart enough when starting out to buy the best. i wasted so much money on 'deals'
I completely understand the issue. Cant tell you how much money I spent starting out chasing down what to buy only in the end spending way more money than if I had gone with the good stuff right off the bat. Your brother sounds like a genius!!!!!
I love Dive tails. Looks an the power of holding. What brand of chisel is that you have . Back in my younger years I use to build Grandfather Clocks . It is a real pleasure watching you an your passionate for what you do . Thanks
IBC, designed them 10 years ago, made for us by IBC.
Very nice work!
That was perfect!
Although it's called a rebate in England the tool's still called a rabbeting plane
Highly skilled work results. Thank you!
WOW wow so cool rob.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Another well structured, informative, concise video. There's nothing in it that people didn't need to know and everything they did need to know. And it was so well explained that even I could follow it. :-)
Any chance of a video detailing how to plane and avoid tear-out when having to plane; against the grain on the end of a draw, when dealing with a cathedral while levelling a board, gnarly timber. A great chance to promote sharp and a good plane.
That is scheduled for filming next week
Hey why did you make it look so easy? LOL. Nice demo, and nice planing cleanup at the end. I think dovetails intimidate a lot of us.
“Better tools make it a whole lot easier”
That’s what she said!
Not sure what to say about that?
Awesome!
Guess I'm going to be upgrading to a Cosman saw. That thing cuts so slick.
I promise you will love it and it will greatly increase your capabilities
Nice video!
This was fun! And you "hurrying" because of the camera is light years ahead of many, and your "I might go slower" for shop furniture... I'd still be setting my marking gauge ;-). Thanks
Well this was just to show what YOU can do with a little practice
Even without using the rag he still ends up looking like a magician
And now the magician waves his magic hammer, removes the silk hanky and there are perfect dovetails!
This might be a dumb question but what is a good all round hammer. One wood mallet or a metal hammer or a rubber mallet?? I know it depends on what project you are doing but for tool ends wouldn’t a rubber mallet be the way to start?? I have never been able to use a hand plane!!!!! I just can’t use one so I’m going to get a powered jointer and a planer....Sorry Dad but my carpenters skills will never be as great as yours and I do miss you but I know you and Mom are keeping an eye on me...... great video as usual
You’re a god.
Please......poor woodworker yes
Excelente!!👍, sos nivel de dios, carpintero experto
Thanks for watching and commenting
And having requested a video on drawer making, I spotted Drawer Making Episode 1....... please ignore my previous request.. :P
Hey I’m a relatively new woodworker and I’m wondering if anyone can tell me what the vices are called that are flush with the bench like these, my vices are very old and I want to build something better on my bench. Thanks
Hi Rob, I live in Wales in the UK and currently use a Dozuki saw for cutting my dovetails. I have been thinking of buying a western style saw and had settled in my mind on the Lie Nielsen dovetail saw with the 1/4 inch incline. I am now in my 70's and like many of my compatriots suffer with arthritis in my hands, wrists etc. Watching your video, I am interested to know, if perhaps your dovetail saw might be a better way to go than the LN. Can you explain to me what if any advantages your saw can offer over the LN? Many thanks. Dawn
HI Dawn, I represented LN in Canada for 7 years, my saw is a result of that. Folks had a difficult time starting the saw, to correct that I put small teeth with a negative cutting face on the first 2 inches of the blade. Very narrow set (.002 per side vs .003) makes the saw track better which means a straighter cut and a smoother and flatter surface. Weight is a big difference as well, mine is almost double.
I'm not sure about you but for myself if I find that if I slow down to be "extra careful" I end up doing a worse overall job and/or make more mistakes. Slight indecisiveness of it I suppose.
Well slowing down especially when you are learning is good to a point. The sawing is were it can bite you. Don't try and saw as fast as I do until you have mastered it, but you need to develop your sawing groove and get comfortable with it. If you slow down too much you cab throw off your sawing groove.
Hi, Rob . Is It me ? Or you have a Better camera ? The video quality and definition of the details is great. ¡¡ and as always your work is impressive.
yes and No. We sent the camera off to the camera shop and they said sawdust had gotten all inside th the lenses so it had a very detailed cleaning and takes a much better picture now
sifu level
Awesome 👍 Could you use the dovetail saw as a marking knife or might it damage the end points? 🤔
That is a good option and what I did before I made the knife. The knife is a little more convenient but using the actual saw works great too.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking awesome thanks Rob I'll see how I get on 👍
I just tried making my first dovetail and it looked like total dog shit! Should have watched this before. The part with the marking knife being the same kerf would really help me I think..
Tks for the real time run through! Who's skew plane did you use for three rabbet
It didn't look like the lie nielsen in the description?
It is indeed a Lie-Nielsen, back when they used to be white bronze.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking interesting tks!
I've always wondered when prepping stock, how flat is flat enough when dovetailing? Is it worth pulling out the calipers to measure thousandths of an inch deviations in thickness on each corner when making typical drawers? I'm sure the size of the project influences this but what tolerances do you aim for?
Hi Robby, calpers are not necessary. You need to have a standard 6 squared board. lots of ways to get there. Watch my playlist on hand plane basics and it will give you all the tips and techniques for 6 squaring a board. Are you using machines or all hand tools?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'm generally a power and hand tool mix. Even though I have a bench jointer, I'm usually using a jack plane to flatten a face (if it's already close to flat) to then run through a planer to square the opposing face. Afterwards I use the same jack plane to remove any snipe and mill marks.
Rob what a joint and so fast, putting the rest of us to shame
No that's not my intention. I am just showing what you can do with a very little amount of practice. Its a motivational video
@@RobCosmanWoodworking it worked
Ill be honest. Video more intend for wood-workers ah? Not diy's like myself who own a wooden saw a ruler and pencil! Think I'll stick to cutting fire wood. :(
Hi Rob, perfect joints as usual! I was wondering Do you always use a pen instead of a pencil to mark out and why? Or is it what you had to hand at the time?
Blessings
Andy.
Yes I do, Pen line is easier to see and the thickness of the line is consistent, a pencil line thickness is always changing as the lead wears away
RobCosman.com
Thank you Rob, it makes perfect sense now, I will try it for myself, anything for more accuracy!
May you and your family Stay well and safe, and thank you for all your hard work to keep us entertained and instructed! you and the team are very much appreciated !
Blessings.
Andy. (London uk)
Rob - did you ever get starting the drawer opening sorted on the writing desk?
Hi fuzzy sure did. We did that on the online membership
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I guess that means you won't just tell me what you did. :)
Not sure why but my tails always have a gap when fitted to the pin board. The pins are perfect more sawdust to make until I get it figured out
Are you using my offset method?
Yes I am and everything fits great right off the saw except that gap on the outside face of the pin board
Almost like the other dovetail video. . .
The dovetailing technique is identical. The idea was to show the dovetail in real time verses stopping and teaching every little thing. The teaching video is 1 hour long this is 19 minutes...thats the difference
Rob I need your hand toolery wisdom, I’m looking for a skew block plane and I can only find old ones, recommendations??? I need one that is budget friendly too.
I can only recommend the Lie Nielsen Skew Block. You can try finding a good deal on eBay for a used one but LN planes hole their value pretty well. The skew block plane MUST have a fence. The old Stanley planes did not have a fence and they are almost worthless - don't get one. If price is a barrier and you are getting one for dovetails, just use the ruler method I show how to do in this video: ruclips.net/video/E8SrH6HbDdQ/видео.html
@@RobCosmanWoodworking do we really need two a left and a right
No, only one. Whichever is your dominant hand.
No matter how many times I watch all of these videos and use all the right tools, I can't for the life of me get the "pins" side cut to match. At this point, I'm just lost on what I might be doing wrong.
OK send me an email with your phone number to Robswebmaster@robcosman.com and I or COL Luther will call and help diagnose your problem. I bet COL Luther is still up, he is on the west coast if you hurry
Another great video. I have a question about your knife that you use to mark the pins. Will that only work with your dovetail saw since you mentioned that it is perfect for your saw because it has the same thickness as your saw?
Its 24 thous thick (thats .020 for the saw plate + .002 x 2 for the set on each side) So my saw will work on any saw that has a kerf of between.024 and around.030
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I just measured my lie nielson dovetail blade and its .37 thick and around .45 if you include the set on both sides. I am impress. 👍
@@RobCosmanWoodworking i am sorry to keep asking about your knife. If your knife/ saw works on a 24 to 30 kerf then anything larger will cause inaccuracies? I want to add I also have a Japanese dovetail saw which has a .28 blade and a total with set of around .36. In short I am interested in your dovetailing system. What im trying to understand is do I need both your knife and saw together for it to work properly.
@@felipehuibonhoa7338 You'd have a little bit of flex when cutting the kerfs, because the kerf created on the tails board will be a little wider than the knife blade. You're talking a miniscule amount though, to the extent that it'd likely make no difference whatsoever. If you could find a replaceable Japanese saw blade (the knife works on the pull I think, and Japanese replacement blades that thin are easier to come by than Western ones usually) closer in width to your Lie Neilson, then you could cut a piece of it off and make a knife that would do the same thing as Rob's rather than buy a whole new saw. If it were me, I'd probably risk buying the knife and using with my existing saw!
Maybe a question out of topic. But im making my workbench. And i am a 6' ½" guy. Which could be a good height of workbench for me? Most ill do is handtools
Andrei...Are you in the U.S or Candas?? If so send your phone number to robswebmaster@robcosman.com and I will call you and we can talk about it. if not reply to this and I will explain by text
@@RobCosmanWoodworking unfortunally im far far away (central america Costa Rica)
Well the traditional way to get the height of your bench top for hand tool work is to measure the height from the floor to where your little finger joins your hand when you are standing straight. This gives a bit lower bench than most folks are comfortable with as its designed to allow you to hand plane efficiently by getting your body weight into your plane stroke. The issue with that is the bench then tends to be a little low for chiseling and sawing. So many folks (including me) make their bench a compromise height between these two.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you very much this will help me
Is he a little drunk in this vid? I don't remember him being so cheery and is he slurring just a bit?
I think you might be projecting, champ.
Please...I don't drink or put foreign substances in my body.
Rob, does cutting the rabbit on the side boards change the overall width of the drawer width?
I literally was shaking my head thinking "ooooh kay got it"....
Outstanding education and entertainment. This is definitely a winning formula, Rob. I appreciate your tireless efforts and energy.
This guy dovetails.
Is there any advantage to take the thickness of the tailboard (to be marked on the pin board) AFTER you've cut the rabbet?
Yes, it will leave the joint flush after its assembled, less to plane off.
When you mark the vertical lines on the pin board, where are they relative to the marking knife kerf? Are they in the kerf, on the waste side or on the pin side?
Pin side. If they go down the kerf you lose all reference. If they go down on the waste, once you fret saw them off you lose a reference for repairs if needed.
Holy crap.... like magic
Appreciate the education
Rather than use the gauge, couldn't you offset the thickness of the saw kerf with either the saw or the marking knife? I don't see why you'd set up a gauge when you can just set the marking knife on the edge of the drawer front and the drawer side against that and when they are lined up, you have the offset.
Because both of those have set, which means you’re trying to determine where to place the board based on feeling the set of the teeth.
oooooo good good good👌👍
it's not the stupid joint that takes so long it's the prep if you don't have a jointer and table saw
I presume you have never tried this.
Believe me, the joint takes a long time.
Looking at this video, it would take Rob an hour to make 4 corners of a box - which does not surprise me.
I once made an oak box for a collection of watches. The dovetailed sides and ends were perfect, as was the rest of the project.
>> It took a full week of my time.
Amazing
Thanks
I don't have all the fine measuring and marking tools, as well as premium sharpening plates that you use. Being on SS disability doesn't allow me the funds to buy the top tier tools I need to produce professional, or even just great results. That frustrates me because when I was working, if I needed a specific tool for a procedure and I didn't have it, I bought it because I had the money. With the tools I do have, I figure I should at least get a decent dovetail when I take my time., but such is not the case. I guess more practice with what I do have may eventually pay off.
Practice is always key. Give me some idea of what part of the joint is giving you troubles
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I usually get more tear out than I think I should, which I'm sure has to do with the quality of my sharpening materials. Also, I don't know if it matters, but I've been using 1/4" poplar, so I'm thinking it's the combination of the thin wood and the sharpness, or lack of sharpness, of my chisels that are my main issue. My chisels are nowhere near the quality that you use and sell, but I couldn't afford one of those let alone a set of three. The dovetails also have gaps, not large ones, just noticeable even when I've filled them in with sanding dust and spread glue into it like someone else I saw suggested.
Rob, I've been watching your videos for a few years now and have followed your updated technique with measuring the saw blade and kerf etc. Despite the number of your dovetail videos that I've seen (including the work on the desk drawer during lockdown) and the quality of each of them, I am dumbfounded at the joint you produced in this video. I can't take my eyes off the picture at 18:42 - the precision is just beyond description. Perhaps the camera is better than normal, or perhaps Jake lingered with a steady shot for a little longer than normal - whatever it is, it looks incredible. Thank you for taking the time to make all your videos.
Thnank you for watching and commenting....more on the way
Tell me about it. Absolutely perfect dovetails. It's almost disgusting they are so good.
I showed my father-in-law woodworker a screen shot of the time stamp above. He asks: "Machine made?" I said: "No. Even more precise than that. Cosman made".
Thanks.
Great stuff (as always) Rob. Would love to see that method of transferring the tails using the saw itself! I remember you showed it in an old video but I haven't been able to track it down yet
Its coming in a couple of videos, hang in there
What do you mean when you say "preserving the line"
Saw beside it not through it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you
That’s about 12 minutes to produce an A grade dovetail by a professional wood worker. Now just repeat 64 times to finish a cabinet and drawers. What could possibly go wrong.🤪
What can be done, if anything, about small gaps in the joints? If you covered this in another video please direct me to it. Thanks!
My method: When you're cutting your pin boards, save the little pile of saw dust and you can mix a little bit of white glue with it and press it into small gaps. Always the pin board dust because it hides in the end grain. Larger gaps may require a thin shaving of the pin board material wedged and glued into the gap. Be careful to align the grain with the pin board
Rooster, lets figure out the cause of your gaps. Are you using my offset method?
RobCosman.com No, I don’t have the tools for it, yet. I do everything else the same but I use a knife to create a knife wall and cut along that. I sometimes miss though or don’t saw straight I guess and end up with a small gap.
Rob, I agree that this video is bascially a good tutorial on handcut dovetails. However, it would have helped if you had provided an alternative to the use of the skew plane. As you know these tools are very expensive and, in my opinion, have limited use is most hobbyists shops. I do not make enough drawers to warrant the expense. You mentioned using a steel ruler as an alternative. This would have been a great addition to what is, as I said, basically a good video. Keep them coming.
Thanks Rob! Appreciate all the beginner videos lately.
More on the way.....Keep watching
That was great, gives us somthing to strive for - thank you
You can do it, I guarantee it
lovely work. can you do a video of a whole drawer? detailing how to line up and square 4 dovetail joins? seems like there may be some trick to keep them from slipping. especially when plaining them . Happy new year, love your work & videos!! :)
thanks
You're welcome!
Absolutely the best sawing instructional video I’ve seen. Truly a legendary master. Very grateful for your content Rob
love real-time demonstration with great tips