How to Use the CC-3.2 and CC-2 Chain Checkers
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- A worn chain shifts poorly and wears sprockets at an accelerated rate. This video shows the Park Tool Chain Checkers in use, and how to interpret the readings.
The CC-3.2 is a go/no-go gauge designed to accurately indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75%, the points at which most chain manufacturers suggest replacement. The CC-2 also quickly and accurately determines the wear and stretch of any chain.
For 10 or fewer speed chains, replace the chain as it reaches the 0.75% wear mark. For 11 and 12-speed chains, replace at 0.5%. Single speed chains should be replaced at 1%.
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• Repair Help: Chains
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Thanks. Learned something today. I appreciate the park tool videos because I’m not very experienced with this stuff and you make it very basic so anybody can get it.
Dear Park Tool team, I love these helpful mech videos, they are so well-designed and go over every important detail with the utmost clarity. Great products, and great videos for amateur mechanics. Thank you!!!
You said "Thanks for watching . . ." I say "No, thanks for teaching!"
Thank you for the amazing content, as always!
in the shop I work in we've had bikes come in so worn that they'd gotten to the point where the chain checker couldn't fit in the chain anymore.
This is why I was happier with 10 speed. Now, I have to change the chain every 4 months and chains are no longer $30, they're like $60 for 12 speed stuff. This SUCKS!
Oh, but I own the CC-2 tool and this is a great instructional video, as usual.
After buying the CC-3.2, I verified that I have not ridden my bike very much in the 10 years I've owned it... lol. This year's a different year though.
Yeah, so this could have saved me some money had I known earlier. My chain got so worn that it jumped on the ring during a sprint - I managed to avoid a crash, but it could have been a bad one. Changed the chain and the new one kept jumping around the cassette - so had to change that too. Now I use this chain checker every time I clean my chain.
Can't emphasize enough just how important it is to check your chain every so often-- I had to spend $600 replacing my drivetrain because I let my chain stretch the cassette and chain ring
Any explanation as to why 11 speed chains are worn at 0.5 instead of the 0.75 for most other chains?
The 11 speed cogs are narrower relatively speaking to the 8, 9 and 10 speeds. They simple wear quicker. The cassettes tend to be more expensive, so to get more life (that is, money) out of the cassettes, we recommend replacing the chain, which is the less expensive of the two.
Wonderful explanation. Thank you
Great video, nice details
Really nice & informative video
Some great information, thanks.
Great Video! Very helpful. Looks like getting a .50 / .75 Checker isn't easy. Only find .50 / 1.0 ones...
It's on CRC for $8 right now.
Hi there! Very nice video and very helpfull, too! But why in a single speed we should replace chain when it reaches the 0.1???
We recommend replacement at 1% wear for the single speeds. The single speed wrap around 1/2 of the cog, and will not skip as will the derailleur chains that engage just a couple of teeth. You can get more life out of the chain because of this. But going beyond 1% will result in a rumbling sound and a vibration when you ride.
Great video
Have used the all metal one for a long time, the blue one looks cool though. Funny that KMC "Z" chain is used on so many new sub $600 bike store brands its pathetic, and online is as low as $5 in bulk quantities. This is the fastest wearing "pretty looking" chain in the industry. Anyone watching - Replace with something else, SRAM, Shimano ect..
Awesome & Thanks :)
What is the reason for placing the rear stud of the CC-2 between two outer plates and the front stud between two inner plates? Thanks for info!
It simply allows the tool to get a more accurate sense of the stretch that's happening in your chain.
I just purchased one of these and the enclosed directions state the opposite - put the fixed pin between two inner plates! Yet, the directions' illustration suggests the opposite. So, which is it!?
It doesn't matter at all.
Park Tool's CC-2 is just a calliper in a handy form. What it actually does is measuring the distance between 11 chain-rolls.
A measured distance of 119.5mm between these, indicates a brand new chain.
At 120.0mm, a 10/11- and above-speed chain is worn out.
At 120.25mm, 10/9- and less speed cains should be replaced.
As for systems with only two sprockets, a distance of 120.5mm should be the indicator to replace the chain.
Rohloffs Caliber does a similar job. But instead measures the wearlevel between nine chain-rolls.
So all in all, you can also just use a calliper and it's inside small jaws. It's the same job that the CC-2 does. ;)
i think it makes no sense
since inner and outer links alternate, and you measure the distance between 11 links, one end will inevitably align with an inner link and the other with an outer link
Can you comment on the end of the CC-2 can also be used to see if the cassette or cranks are worn simply by inserting it into the grooves.
It does not work for that. Tooth profiles vary from cassette to cassette and even from tooth to tooth on the same sprocket. Cassette wear gauges are a tough cookie.
So my bike has 7 rear gears but I only ever use 1 of them so does that mean I can wait until 1% to replace?
Do they work on the new sram t type flat top chains? If not, what tool should I use? Thanks
That's not clear at all! I've just bought the cc-2, the attached sheet says that for a reliable measurement the fixed pin has to be placed inside the inner plates. But in this video you say that it has to rest inside outer plates. Who says the truth?
I volunteer at the Salt Lake City Bicycle Collective and tonight they showed me how to check it with the 3.2 the fixed pin should not go between the rollers , if it can drop in between the rollers then the side of the chain checker that faces the chain tells you the percentage of wear , ......., just remember ............ the fixed pin should not drop in between the rollers, that's why we had to change the chain tonight , we used the 3.2 though
I own a xx1 eagle dub grupo 12 speed and according to srams owner manual, I should replace the chain when it reches 0.8% or perhaps .75.
Sram suggests replacing the chain, chainring and cassette at .8 elongation. If you would like to potentially prolong the life of the cassette or chainring then replacing the chain earlier would be suggested. The other thing we have noticed on these chains is that shift performance starts to deteriorate even before .5. This has to do with the side to side flex of the chain. You will notice when holding a well used but not well "stretched" eagle chain they feel loose and have lots of movement back and forth.
My cc-2 chain checker does not come to a stop when I pus the triangle through, what does this mean?? Thanks
If CC-2 triangle is fully pushed through, so you can see the "1.0"-Mark in the diamond, and you're still able to move the tool inside the chain, then the chain is way to worn out to just replace the chain. You'll need at least new sprockets, too. Maybe also the Chainrings.
Can you use the 3.2 on a single speed half link chain?
I’ve got a worn chain and I used the tool correctly and front pin with the marking doesn’t want to come into the outer links is the broken or the pins are damaged?
I really liked the tool but it’s not working any idea why park tool?
I have a CC 3.2 and I am pretty good with my chain checking. However, I normally change when the tool 'drops' into the chain link with a bit of a push (sometimes quite a bit of a push) can I keep going for a bit longer or should I change anyway. Basically the tool doesn't just 'drop in' freely. Thanks.
A small amount of resistance means its bad but if you are really pushing it then it is not worn yet.
@@parktool Thanks for the reply, I wouldn't do a big ride on this but I was hoping to get a couple of small rides in before then replacing!
Great question.
Good morning all. should the measurement be carried out with a particular combination? for example large chainring and small sprocket or another combination or any chainring/sprocket combination is ok to measure?
The gear combination will not effect the reading. Any gear is fine.
@@parktool thanks a lot for the reply 🙏🏻
Do either of these tools work with half link chains?
These will work on half link chains. Those chains do not wear very fast though as they are 1/8 and usually very burly.
Will this work if the chain has already been removed from the bike?
yes, no difference
Campagnolo says that on their Record and Super Record 11 and 12 speed chains that the chain is considered worn when 6 links are 132.6mm (132.2 is new). Maybe I don't know the way Park calculates 0.5%, but according to Campy, that is 0.3%. Is it wise to rely on my Park gauge? I don't know where to get a gauge that measures over 6 links for 0.3%
I have both these tools and get different readings from them even though I use them correctly as indicated in the video…any idea as to why this happens
The CC3-2 Is a metal, It is possible that this bent, check on something flat and press the metal body
I've just bought a CC-2, and the manual says: "it should be replaced when the CC-2 shows a reading of .75% (for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9-speed chains) or .50% (for 10, 11, 12-speed chains)." The video shows that we should replace a 10s chain only at .75%... which information is correct?
.50% for 10, 11, and 12.
@@parktool What is the reason for earlier replace? I fail to see the reason behind it?
A bit off topic, but is it possible to get spares for the Park Tool SBS-1? I'm trying to track down a 6mm hex bit
Sorry, we don't sell individual bits for our SBS sets. However, if there is a warranty issue, we do send out replacements. Our warranty department can be reached at info@parktool.com
You can carefully grind it back to a true hex, if it's less than majorly rounded. That's why Allen key bits are made like this. Better to do on a low-speed water-cooled grinder, to avoid damaging the temper of the steel, and repeating the problem, but carefully (cooling the metal in water occasionally) on a high-speed grinder will work too.
Can this chain checker be used to measure a motor bike chain wear or is it limited just with bicycle??!
My cc3.2 reads .75 wear at some parts of the chain, while on the middle part of the chain @0.75 pin doesn't drop. (9spd ultegra chain). Any thoughts on this.
It stands to reason that some parts of your chain could be worn differently. If you're CC-3.2 is reading in the .75% wear mark, consider replacing your chain before it begins to wear out your cassette.
"cahgs"
I replaced my 11 speed chain after 0,5 stretch but the new chain is skipping on one cog what to do? Switch back to the old chain and use until 0.75 stretch and replace both cassette and chain?
This is becoming more common. Its up to you how you proceed with this. A chain that has stretched that much can also have quite a lot of lateral play, causing sloppy shifting. So If you are willing to live with shifting that is not as crisp as it could be, then throwing the old chain back on for a bit and replacing the chain and cassette down the road might be your best option. If you are looking for ultimate performance I would suggest keeping the parts coming.
But your own instructions on the package shows the outer. Wtf?
Well, in the manual it is said that you should change the chain as it reaches the 0.5% wear with 10 speed. So there is a little bit a misleading between this video and the manual.
cc2>cc3.2
0:04 the hell happened to the pick
So fixed is 1% is wear. Wow
Is the first one 12 speed compatible?
Both the CC-2 and CC-3.2 are compatible with 12-speed chains.
I don't eat cargs.
Just use a TAPE MEASURE!!
A steel 12" rule is more accurate. But less handy.