this channel is soo entertaining and enjoyable.. i've been watching for years.. i love how you do almost everything yourself and your pretty much self taught and its awesome.. i love the vids..
I'm following this channel for the last seven years, and I'm always amazed how much you are able to construct with your own hands and a mind that strives for greatness. Hands down the best Channel on RUclips, you're awesome man! Keep doing your thing.
4:56 it's good you had your friend there to immediately break the tension. If something like that happens to me at my job and I'm alone, I'd have a weep and then go home to hug the missus/pets.
the fact you learned all of this from previous builds specially from the eclipse and rally Miata is so amaizing how far you have come , from sketchy welded suspension towers to a high quality fully built custom drivetrain, suspension and much more!
I love your content, and think you do some pretty awesome stuff. As an engineer, I’d caution you from running with those slotted holes in the bracket. There are a lot of stress concentrations in those overlapping hole edges and could definitely cause a failure.
Glad to see this here, that sheet steel will probably fail if you don't use the "slotted holes" for position only - could just make new brackets with the desired height selected?
I’ll say it again, this channel deserves twice the ammount of subscribers. The cinematic quality and build quality here is at such a high level but gingium stays slept on.
Its been so long since I have seen any of your videos. Since you refinished the floors… I am happily surprised to see how well you are doing. Keep up the great work and videos!
Ok, now when the axle exploded, I subscribed. Just to much like my family. But when I saw the toilet in the background I felt like I should have found you guys a long time ago. Keep on keeping on. Also music doesn’t suck.
So aside from the Cannon diff, and the human-welding, those holes for the bracket slots can and will bring up the issue of your axle sliding down on them, when the bolts eventually loosen from the vibrations of you going full send in this thing. Now if your axles bolts are already situated at the bottom of those slots, no problem until you go on a bumpy road that causes your diff to go upwards into the cab. If it isn't, maybe take some time to convert those slots into holes again if you haven't fully welded the brackets yet. The more potential risks you can think of, come up with a solution for, practice said solution, then eliminate/minimize said risk, the longer this truck will last.
Okay I have a cool junkyard find for you get a rear diff cover off a 2003 explorer that is aluminum and has tabs on it and cut cut them off and cover will bolt right up to the live axle and now have a drain plug and fill. No more sealing it back up again and again
you should use the 4wd front fenders as a set of "overs" on your stock fenders. spacing it out as far as you need and having a more oem+ look. plasma out the filler pieces and you're good to go.
been watching for what feels like forever now, I remember watching the video of you telling us how your neighbors were complaining about your blue miata... time flies
Hey bro don't get wheels spacers for the rear, get a C-clip eliminator kit. It will space out the wheels and make the axle safer. Also weld the tubes to the center housing. They like to spin.
Upvote this so Caleb sees it! - leave the bed cutout and polish up all of the suspension/frame work. Make it look sick and really give it that gingium special. This truck has become the definition of your channel, and I think you should really showcase your skills with it-
Try designing in millimeters, it's so much easier. You don't have to mess around with huge numbers. 0.1 mm is more than enough tolerance for what you're building.
@@_Gingium_ I'll send you one, lol! I designed in solidworks using inches for years, but after making the switch I'll never go back. Since you're already used to doing quick math, it gets infinitely easier when you're dealing with whole numbers. .04 inches is 1mm to give you an idea.
For some reason your intro reminded me of the top gear uk intros "on this episode of Gingium, I modify the solid axle, make the cantilever suspension, and almost seriously injure myself... Twice"
It's incredible to see from where you have come. I'm watching since the first Mods on the Rallyata and the time you were putting some new horns behind the front grill of daisy. Gotta say, I still kinda miss her to this day ❤ You almost made me buy a WRX wagon back then 😅 Keep up the good work and stay true to yourself! Greetings from Germany
10:11 there's another reason: since the engine in the Explorer was mounted longitudinally, the engine torque would cause the body to move and would also make the vehicle steer into one direction when applying torque, which becomes more apparent the softer the suspension is. Placing the differential offset from the center helps to mitigate that issue; since the bulk of the torque from the rear axle towards the chassis is being applied via the shorter lever arm (the 17" long axle), there is less force being applied to the chassis, causing the body to move less. This has the added benefit of freeing up space for the gas tank under the car, but placing the gas tank on one side was not the primary reason why they did it 🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓
Your last video was the first Gingium video I've seen. I went back and watched V1 of the truck and boy, have you come a long way. This thing is pretty sick.
Man I love this channel... you make it seem so easy, always comes out amazing, even if you have to redo things ... The struggles you've been through with finding a shop and working outside are far now ❤️ keep it up!
maaaaannn this thing is looking sooo f-ing radical bro and i can not weight to see it complete and ready to rip .... peace and love fa keep it rad stay safe and build on .... l8z
Bro , I love watching your channel before the old drift truck, but this build is by far my favorite build. Did you know if you type in a drift truck? You're the first to pop up.
Seeing a cantilever it instantly reminded me of working on old ww2 military vehicles some of them use a vertical arm that goes up to a horizontal arm attached to a coiled spring packed inside a greased cylinder as the arm pushed up the spring would unwind causing back pressure like a primitive Cantilever shock system
You're sticking with a panhard bar instead of a watts-link even though a panhard bar has that massive uncompensatable roll center issue? 4:30 instant replay
Gingium => baldium => headlessium.. gotta be more careful, my guy, I wanna see you do more cool shit to your cars. I'm glad you weren't hurt. Keep up the FIRE content, pun absolutely intended.
should have drilled out the spot welds on the pumpkin. pulled the axle tube than trimmed it down. there are plenty of videos out there that show how to do this. it would prevent having a welded section in the middle of the axle tube that you need to insure is absolutely straight.
I enjoy the content, however. That alignment on the resr. That bar setup angle is totally wrong. Do you have an email and i could help you how you should change it? Big love from sweden
Them slotted holes in the brackets are almost as brilliant as the gas tank in the front idea. With all the forces the rear suspension is under when it's being thrown around I'm not sure if that was such a good idea to join all the holes like that
@@shiftymiata I see the indexes but I've also seen full holes stretch. My concern lies in the fact that there are only little points stopping the bolt from wandering.
I'm not sure what your plan is with the bed floor and I say that based on where you cut it. When you body drop a bed, you dont cut the floor out. You removed say 2-3" from the inner bedside and you cut the front and rear at their furthest point. So like in your case. The side cut would have been made above your wheel tubs. That space above them is what you'd want to removed the whole length. When you'd weld it back together, the top of your wheel tubs would be about the same as the top of the bed rails. Just raising the portion you cut out is gonna leave pockets on the sides.
Love seeing your work! Have you considered a watts link instead of a panhard bar? It suits your needs (centering the rear axle, coping with side loads) perfectly
A panhard is fine for what he has. If he was running airbags, that's when you need a watts link. It keeps the rear axle centered no matter how high or low the truck is.
You should tig weld the axle tubes to the housing in drag racing snd drifting the pins are known to fall out and you loose your axle tubes just a thin weld below the lip of the housing
this channel is soo entertaining and enjoyable.. i've been watching for years.. i love how you do almost everything yourself and your pretty much self taught and its awesome.. i love the vids..
Thank you so much!
same brother, been watching since 2016
I love to see how far this man has come since the forza days
For real!
You should watch Matt's off road recovery! He just built an entire off road wrecker! Frame and all
I'm following this channel for the last seven years, and I'm always amazed how much you are able to construct with your own hands and a mind that strives for greatness.
Hands down the best Channel on RUclips, you're awesome man!
Keep doing your thing.
Love that the live axle doubles as potato cannon lmao, stay safe man 😅
4:56 it's good you had your friend there to immediately break the tension. If something like that happens to me at my job and I'm alone, I'd have a weep and then go home to hug the missus/pets.
I'm now 15 and have watched your channel since 2014. When I was young, your channel was the first subscribe to
12:00 gotta love imperial measurements 🤩
the fact you learned all of this from previous builds specially from the eclipse and rally Miata is so amaizing how far you have come , from sketchy welded suspension towers to a high quality fully built custom drivetrain, suspension and much more!
I love your content, and think you do some pretty awesome stuff. As an engineer, I’d caution you from running with those slotted holes in the bracket. There are a lot of stress concentrations in those overlapping hole edges and could definitely cause a failure.
Glad to see this here, that sheet steel will probably fail if you don't use the "slotted holes" for position only - could just make new brackets with the desired height selected?
I’ll say it again, this channel deserves twice the ammount of subscribers. The cinematic quality and build quality here is at such a high level but gingium stays slept on.
Its been so long since I have seen any of your videos. Since you refinished the floors… I am happily surprised to see how well you are doing. Keep up the great work and videos!
Ok, now when the axle exploded, I subscribed. Just to much like my family.
But when I saw the toilet in the background I felt like I should have found you guys a long time ago. Keep on keeping on. Also music doesn’t suck.
Cannonium making weapons out here
LOL that subtle roast about the gas tank that killed me
So aside from the Cannon diff, and the human-welding, those holes for the bracket slots can and will bring up the issue of your axle sliding down on them, when the bolts eventually loosen from the vibrations of you going full send in this thing.
Now if your axles bolts are already situated at the bottom of those slots, no problem until you go on a bumpy road that causes your diff to go upwards into the cab. If it isn't, maybe take some time to convert those slots into holes again if you haven't fully welded the brackets yet.
The more potential risks you can think of, come up with a solution for, practice said solution, then eliminate/minimize said risk, the longer this truck will last.
The slots actually aren’t ovals, they’re three circles that’s are slightly connected. So there is metal preventing the bolts from sliding around!
@@_Gingium_ seems you were one step ahead. Don't stop now!
@@_Gingium_ with forces you dealing in suspension it can became ovals ... so for me - risky move .
Okay I have a cool junkyard find for you get a rear diff cover off a 2003 explorer that is aluminum and has tabs on it and cut cut them off and cover will bolt right up to the live axle and now have a drain plug and fill. No more sealing it back up again and again
Can't wait for the next episode - love the series, keep them coming man, super inspired by your craftmanship!
So enjoyable.
you should use the 4wd front fenders as a set of "overs" on your stock fenders. spacing it out as far as you need and having a more oem+ look. plasma out the filler pieces and you're good to go.
been watching for what feels like forever now, I remember watching the video of you telling us how your neighbors were complaining about your blue miata... time flies
Hey bro don't get wheels spacers for the rear, get a C-clip eliminator kit. It will space out the wheels and make the axle safer. Also weld the tubes to the center housing. They like to spin.
Man that looks good!!! And that New Cat Sub frame has to be displayed somehow! Such a Neat looking Hotrod!
Upvote this so Caleb sees it! - leave the bed cutout and polish up all of the suspension/frame work. Make it look sick and really give it that gingium special. This truck has become the definition of your channel, and I think you should really showcase your skills with it-
Some of this episode almost feels nostalgic for some reason 🤔
Who would've thought the guy who made gaming videos come so far in a few year keep up the good work ging
@4:37 not sure why I found this so funny, but I have literally laughed until I cried. Thank God you didn't have your face down there!
Youre gonna work for hoonigan one day on some crazy ass custom build man. Im calling it.
I subscribed back when you did that OffRoad Toyota Previa!! That things still my favorite build you have done! This drift truck being a close second
I gotta say... The axle cannon is a new one for me. Good tip on what to avoid in the future!
13:38 when you let your curiosity get the best of you
For the truck bed since it is going to be raised and flat some under bed storage for things like ratchet traps and extra tools would be really cool
It’s still so cool to think and see how you went from working on your Ford focus ZX3 in a parking lot to this ever so cool shop
Try designing in millimeters, it's so much easier. You don't have to mess around with huge numbers. 0.1 mm is more than enough tolerance for what you're building.
I agree, but I don’t have mm tape measures lol
@@_Gingium_ I'll send you one, lol! I designed in solidworks using inches for years, but after making the switch I'll never go back. Since you're already used to doing quick math, it gets infinitely easier when you're dealing with whole numbers. .04 inches is 1mm to give you an idea.
For some reason your intro reminded me of the top gear uk intros "on this episode of Gingium, I modify the solid axle, make the cantilever suspension, and almost seriously injure myself... Twice"
I remember your head! that sweet red hair and miatas!! back 5 years or so
It's incredible to see from where you have come. I'm watching since the first Mods on the Rallyata and the time you were putting some new horns behind the front grill of daisy. Gotta say, I still kinda miss her to this day ❤
You almost made me buy a WRX wagon back then 😅
Keep up the good work and stay true to yourself!
Greetings from Germany
10:11 there's another reason: since the engine in the Explorer was mounted longitudinally, the engine torque would cause the body to move and would also make the vehicle steer into one direction when applying torque, which becomes more apparent the softer the suspension is. Placing the differential offset from the center helps to mitigate that issue; since the bulk of the torque from the rear axle towards the chassis is being applied via the shorter lever arm (the 17" long axle), there is less force being applied to the chassis, causing the body to move less. This has the added benefit of freeing up space for the gas tank under the car, but placing the gas tank on one side was not the primary reason why they did it 🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓
this drift truck episodes gets me thrilled all the time.....dont stop the drift truck..
Love to see you enjoying this build again man! Best build on RUclips right now. The content has been on fire man. Whatever your doing is working.
Your last video was the first Gingium video I've seen. I went back and watched V1 of the truck and boy, have you come a long way. This thing is pretty sick.
Always learn something with these videos. And of course see some high quality footage. Can't wait for more.
One of the best automotive creators/ fabricators been watching your growth since the OG gaming gingium channel you’ve come a long way ✌🏽
The fact man can makes jokes about his tragedy shows so much character!! One of the many reason I love gingium 😂💪
Enjoying the build
Looks great! ...make sure that those Rear Coilovers can in fat be mounted at any angle other than Vertical tho.
Man I love this channel... you make it seem so easy, always comes out amazing, even if you have to redo things ... The struggles you've been through with finding a shop and working outside are far now ❤️ keep it up!
maaaaannn this thing is looking sooo f-ing radical bro and i can not weight to see it complete and ready to rip .... peace and love fa keep it rad stay safe and build on .... l8z
Build a low profile tool box/drawer on the gate side of the bed under the main flatbed?
Joke about the gas tank is priceless 😂. We live and we learn
It's hard to believe I've been watching this channel since I was a junior in high school
Love it, the fabrication, edits, proces, epic ❤ stay safe mr axle Canon 😂
Love this truck.
Jet axle
Glad you're good 👍
Will you be taking the cab off aswell n getting the full frame powder coated
I will be taking the cab off and painting the frame. Probably not powder coat though
@Gingium aww right can't wait
Ever since the eclipse build I’ve become a low key gingium fan. Keep on keepin on 💪💪
I think that was the brake clean, if it comes under vacuum like it likely did when you blew on it, it caused it to blow out through the axle.
Painting the whole chasis the same grey colour as you did with the drift rx7 would look crazy beautiful with white rims
She's coming out so nice 🏁
This truck lookin so bad to the bone man, I’m SO HYPED for the cantilever system!!
This is an amazing build and by the week its getting greater and greater
Keep it up !
That was a really good idea to uses angle iron to make sure the axle was straight while you tacked it
That what you do to weld tube together and keep it straight.
Bro , I love watching your channel before the old drift truck, but this build is by far my favorite build. Did you know if you type in a drift truck? You're the first to pop up.
Seeing a cantilever it instantly reminded me of working on old ww2 military vehicles some of them use a vertical arm that goes up to a horizontal arm attached to a coiled spring packed inside a greased cylinder as the arm pushed up the spring would unwind causing back pressure like a primitive Cantilever shock system
Noted can use ford 8.8 as a homemade rpg if needed
such a sick build to watch
You're sticking with a panhard bar instead of a watts-link even though a panhard bar has that massive uncompensatable roll center issue?
4:30 instant replay
Man that's looking sick. Great job dude.
I love your enthusiasm bro!!
Can’t wait for the next episode. The truck looks clean 🧼
coming out great ant wait to see it finished
"How to make a cannon from a solid axle" haha!
It's offset to one side because of the transfer case on a 4x4 has the driveshaft coming out that side. 😂
5:16 the mistake u did was give it oxygen when blowing in the axel. best way is to use a rag to suffocate the flame :D
Gingium => baldium => headlessium.. gotta be more careful, my guy, I wanna see you do more cool shit to your cars. I'm glad you weren't hurt. Keep up the FIRE content, pun absolutely intended.
This thing is coming out so sick 👌🏽
should have drilled out the spot welds on the pumpkin. pulled the axle tube than trimmed it down. there are plenty of videos out there that show how to do this. it would prevent having a welded section in the middle of the axle tube that you need to insure is absolutely straight.
Really cool episode. Lots to learn today
It's spare room to fit your 3" exhaust over the axle 👌
I enjoy the content, however.
That alignment on the resr. That bar setup angle is totally wrong. Do you have an email and i could help you how you should change it? Big love from sweden
Them slotted holes in the brackets are almost as brilliant as the gas tank in the front idea. With all the forces the rear suspension is under when it's being thrown around I'm not sure if that was such a good idea to join all the holes like that
There is still metal making three separate circles, it’s not one big oval. Don’t think it’ll be an issue
Look again and use your eyes this time, genius. The bolt cannot slide up or down because there are indexes.
@@shiftymiata I see the indexes but I've also seen full holes stretch. My concern lies in the fact that there are only little points stopping the bolt from wandering.
I'm not sure what your plan is with the bed floor and I say that based on where you cut it. When you body drop a bed, you dont cut the floor out. You removed say 2-3" from the inner bedside and you cut the front and rear at their furthest point. So like in your case. The side cut would have been made above your wheel tubs. That space above them is what you'd want to removed the whole length. When you'd weld it back together, the top of your wheel tubs would be about the same as the top of the bed rails. Just raising the portion you cut out is gonna leave pockets on the sides.
Loving every second of this series!!
Love seeing your work!
Have you considered a watts link instead of a panhard bar?
It suits your needs (centering the rear axle, coping with side loads) perfectly
panhards are pretty decent but yeah if he’s basically custom fabbing everything a watts links should make the live axle feel just as solid as irs
A panhard is fine for what he has. If he was running airbags, that's when you need a watts link. It keeps the rear axle centered no matter how high or low the truck is.
Where the notch was in relation to the new bed why not have a tool box that sinks into it that's removable for tool on the track
Since you bolted the wheels on without brake rotors in place, you may not need spacers after all.
That solid axle doubles as a RPG apparently! Glad you didn't get hurt there that could have been bad.
That explosion was hilarious.
Is mounting that coilover sideways ok for it? I’m not sure how the fluids are supposed to flow but I thought they had to be a certain orientation.
This looks so cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
will you use pass through spacers and longer studs?
This man got really good at welding.
Your shoes look comfy. Where can I get them?
I have a explorer axel in my 66 fairlane. It was an awesome upgrade. Are you still running the stock brakes? They are a bit underwhelming.
Yeah never cut on housing with the cover on. Builds pressure. Learned that the hard way too 😂
You should tig weld the axle tubes to the housing in drag racing snd drifting the pins are known to fall out and you loose your axle tubes just a thin weld below the lip of the housing
thank you for mentioning the no irs setup i was so curious to why you didnt go for that
Why not getting lower offset wheels instead of running spacers?
WOW you made me really apricate the metric system wacthing that math 👌👌🤣🤣
If your four links are not exactly the same length the pinion angle will change while going through suspension travel. I´d check it.
The jb weld comment😂😂😂😂
5:19, Cannon craft recipe learned 😂