Soldering Your First Stained Glass Project
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- Опубликовано: 2 янв 2012
- This is the students' first project- the Flower Window. Here is the way I teach them to solder. I cover: setting up on a jig, applying flux, tacking, tinning, and soldering the second side.
For 120 high school students soldering on any given day, we use specially made boards called jigs. This allows students to set up a project, move to a station, and to stow their project in a different place later, without pieces moving. Jigs also help to align edges, so they are not crooked. We use plywood, because we need dozens of them.
As of 2021, we are switching to using homasote surfaces for jigs, and cut aluminum angle stock. These materials can be found online (affiliate links):
Homasote board (check local hardware stores): amzn.to/3fAsdLW
Morton Layout System: amzn.to/3vD8oJt
We also use fume extractors in class to pull away the particulate-laden smoke generated by the flux. Always have proper ventilation when soldering!
(affiliate links)
Hakko fume extractors: amzn.to/3uCPu45
Hakko Loc Line Hose & Nozzle Kit
Use pre-filter A1572 with HEPA A1573 main filter- it filters everything!
If you are working on your own and can leave your project in the same place day in and day out, a jig may not be necessary.
There are separate tutorials for :
Cutting Stained Glass Pattern Pieces with Pattern Shears: • Using Pattern Scissors...
Glueing Pattern Pieces with Rubber Cement: • Video
Cutting Glass Pattern Pieces: • Video
Using a Grinder to Shape Glass Pattern Pieces: • Using a Grinder for Gl...
Washing off and Numbering Pieces: • Washing off and Number...
Foiling Glass Pattern Pieces: • Copper Foiling Glass P...
Need stained glass tools and supplies? Here is a shopping guide that contains the items we use the most in our classes.
www.bhssjewelrystainedglass.co... 
Хобби
"That's the adhesive crying for help" that made me laugh. Seriously learned so much from the one video. I started my first solder today & continuesly kept redoing the solder. Explains why it lifted. Thanks for the video. So helpful.
Soldering just takes repetition and practice to get a feel for it. You got this!
I agree with the others. Your explanation and video are well executed. I've not done glass for several years. Your vids are a terrific refresher!
GEEZE . . . VIDEO 10 YEARS AGO! AMAZING VIDEO. YOUR SKILLS ARE AWESOME! THANK YOU SO MUCH! I CAN’T IMAGINE HOW MANY GORGEOUS PROJECTS YOU'VE DONE SINCE THIS VIDEO POST! SO TALENTED!
Wow, thank you! Glad this helped you! :-)
Excellent video. I had lost confidence before I even started but you make an excellent instructor. Your students are very fortunate. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! I sincerely appreciate your compliment. :-)
Love your tutorial! Extremely helpful! You share so many precious tips and tricks! Thank you sooooo much! 🙋🏻♀️🇨🇦
You are so welcome! Glad you found it helpful :-)
I'd say that to get started, you'd pay around $200 for the tools and some basic starter materials. After that, you're basically buying glass, foil, and solder. If you work 12" x 18" or smaller, you're spending around $10 or less per project. Larger, and of course, the cost rises. You can use basic glass (Spectrum, Wissmach) and this will be a much cheaper hobby than if you use premium glass (Youghiougheny, Bullseye, etc.). Hope this helps!
Very nicely explained...Thanks for video..
Awesome demonstration - ya got me excited to try this!
Hope you enjoy it!
I will starting my first stained glass project after going to the Cabrillo College class in Aptos CA. I have already drawn my pattern and now will start cutting glass. The soldering lesson I just watched here was great for learning.
Best of luck to you! Thank you for watching :-)
This was such a helpful video, thank you so much!! I just started beginner glass class and my professor mostly works with glass blowing so didn't explain the process of stained glass and soldering that much, so I'm glad I stumbled upon this video before I start my stained glass project today :)
Glad it was helpful! RUclips has so much to offer to help you through it. Best of luck, and happy glassing!
Patrick, you are right. When the iron is gliding across the fluxed foil, it is heating the copper. Then, the solder flows easily. Even if solder is dropped onto the foil, since copper conducts heat so well, the high heat from the solder, plus the flux both make the solder adhere and flow too.
I took your stained glass class in high school!! I've recently been inspired to get back into stained glass so I've been watching tutorials on RUclips and stumbled upon this video! Thank you for this :)
Hello! I remember you! :-) Hi!
'Painting' the solder seams isn't recommended, but you can make them black or copper-colored with a solution called patina. I have another video called 'Patina Demonstration' that shows you how. Thanks for watching!
The way I solder, I would like to see a bead seam right away. It puts more stress on the foil adhesive to keep going over the seams. So no, I don't like to see a flat seam at all. A smooth bead seam not only looks better, but gives more holding power and support for the glass pieces. Hope this helps!
Hi~
I use 60/40 solder. I've used 63/37, and that's fine, too. I don't like using 50/50, because I find that it doesn't flow the same way. I also don't use lead-free. To be perfectly honest, we use the solder we do because it is the most inexpensive option for our classroom use :-)
I work in an electronics lab at a large tech company and it’s always odd for me watching people solder stained glass by holding the iron in their fist. For me it’s more delicate than a pencil with a 0.1mm tip for soldering under magnification.
Nice job showing us the other side of the soldering skill.
It is a delicate job, for sure! Thanks for watching!
I still have my flower i made in 2006 in your class
Right on! BHSS!!
Nice job.
Thanks for the visit!
Very helpful! How can I handle tinning when the glass panel is 3 X 4 feet in dimension?
That size does make it tricky to pick up the project, doesn't it! In your case, you'd just need to tin the front edge foil while you're soldering the front. Do the same on the back side. However, with a panel that size, you probably should be adding at least 1/2" wide zinc frame to the edges. You won't see the edge foil tinning in that case, since it will be covered by the frame, so the side tinning can be skipped. Just remove the blobs. I'd pull the panel so it's hanging a tiny bit over the edge of the work table, and melt any solder blobs onto the floor. Rotate the panel and gradually work your way around the edges of the panel.
As a strip quilter, we use self-healing gridded mats and transparent rulers. would these come in handy at all for cutting strips of glass and then dicing them for geometric patterns? i see people using glued paper patterns or free-handing when cutting glass. this seems non-uniform to me. and do all piece require grinding?
For cutting glass, I use thin chipboard (like poster board) underneath in case the cutter hits the table. It acts as a cushion to protect the cutter wheel from potential damage. Any sturdy ruler is good to use as a guide for straight cuts. We draw patterns, cut them with pattern shears and glue them to glass. After the pattern piece shapes have been cut, all of the edges are ground to exactly match the paper patterns. The grinding of the pieces roughs up the edges to help the copper foil to adhere better. Although some may not grind *all* of the edges if they are cut right to the paper pattern, I encourage grinding all edges to be smooth (not jagged) so the edges of the foil also make a smooth line. Make sense?
Thank you for the wonderful video! Do you need to prep the tip before doing this or am I using the wrong type of tip or soldering iron in general? I work in automotive so Ive only had these. Thank you so much!
Some use a sal ammoniac block to drag the hot tip into. Some roll the hot tip in the solder, but I just use a wet sponge to remove the ash that forms on the tip. You'll do any of these several times throughout your soldering sessions. Hope this helps!
Thanks for this video! It's absolutely amazing. How did you create the flower?
I drew it, and you can find ready made patterns all over the internet! :-)
When I get to were the solder is to small for me to hold I use my pliers to hold the solder as I use it.
Definitely a good solution for using every bit of it!
I have a few suggestions for you: 1) when using a right angle or a t-square true the object board first, then line the square with the reference side, ie the truest side; 2) don't use a framing hammer on a tacking nail; use a lighter hammer with a smaller head; 3) use double sided carpet tape to secure your frame, 4) drive your nail with a single blow; 5) use a soldering iron which has a reo-stat control on it; that is the best way to control the heat; 6) buy a cleaning stone for your soldering iron tip and use it. You have a light touch with a soldering iron. I envy you that.,
Chester~ Thanks for your comment! Over the years in our classes, we've tried using temperature controlled irons as well as sal-ammoniac blocks to clean the tips. Unfortunately, neither of these worked well for us. I have large (30+) classes of high school students and the blocks, especially were a disaster! :-) Because we use static temp. irons, I just try to emphasize control over how solder is applied, and how to control the heat flow throughout the solder seams. I'm sure those who are viewing reading will find these suggestions useful and might give them a try.
LadyBerz
Question: would balsa wood and thumbtacks work for framing?
For tacking a project, it might be fine. Try it and let me know if it works!
This is really cool, but at least for soldering electronics it's usualy: first apply the heating thing then the solder (sorry english is not my native language)
In stained glass, the solder and the foil both need to heat up as well, which is why I drag the iron along the foil while feeding the solder onto the iron. But electronics soldering is different from SG soldering. The solder for electronics has a rosin core, as opposed to a solid core (SG) and if used for SG the appearance is pretty yucky.
what are the risks of fine glass inhalation or lead soldering...any tips on this kind of prevention...thanks...
+Valérie Lamirande No risk for breathing glass powder, but rather flux fumes. Flux smoke contains particles that should not be inhaled. Solder outside or with a fan blowing away from you, or out a window. Do not melt solder (for recycling it) with a torch without a special mask- fumes are toxic at a high temperature. When handling solder or projects, wash hands afterward, to remove lead residue. As well, do not eat with hands while soldering (candy or finger foods, etc.) Merci pour regarder! :-)
thank you very much for your answer
+Valérie Lamirande A fume trap.....(for drawing solder..(or Sawder) fumes in via a filter system..)
Very informative. My question is this as strong as using caming I have a window in a door that needs repairs and wonder if this will hold up to door closings?
It will. I'd watch the slamming, though! ;-)
Got kids thats what messed it up in first place
I totally can relate! :-)
+Robert Cookson That's how I got into lead came stained glass work..Because of a slamming of a door..;-0)
Good luck..
Most stained glass in doors/windows (IE things that have movement) are done with came for the preventing the failure you’ve experienced.
Hi- good question! When you use flux and solder on a seam, you'll get a dirty residue on the surface of the seam. This will wash off with soap and water. This isn't the adhesive burning, but rather a result of what the flux is designed to do. If it's the adhesive burning, the residue will come from *beneath* the foil (the edges of the seam.) Try washing the project first. I don't think you're doing anything wrong, by what you're telling me. Any solder/flux combo will have dirt residue mixed in
What about the edges where two pieces join & there’s a gap, so not a straight smooth edge, along the whole piece?
There's a technique that evens out those dips in the edges. It's 'edge finishing', or 'beading the edge' and I have some vids that show how to do it!
ruclips.net/video/pRaT0cwS3YI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/9UwmxnXjtno/видео.html
I know this is an old video, but what temperature setting do you use?
Mine varies. I have it anywhere between 700 and 900, depending on what I'm doing. My Hakko irons are in Celcius, though. Between 480 520 is about right. Experiment for yourself though!
Hi - I have researched this to no end and still have not found an answer. I want to solder a diamond pattern on a large piece of flat glass. I would use copper foil and flux. I want to frame it and hang it in front of a window.
Can I do this, or will soldering only work when joining two pieces of glass together?
Thanks so much!
Soldering is usually done to connect separate foiled pieces together. If I’m understanding your intent correctly, if you were trying to attach a diamond shape to a flat piece of glass, you’d have to apply foil to that flat glass *and* to the diamond in order for the solder to stick to them both. Problem is, the flat glass is susceptible to heat shock once the iron makes contact with both pieces for a prolonged period. Separate foiled pieces, connected together, like a puzzle (traditional method) is the way to go.
So, you could tin something without solder if not placing two pieces together?
Tinning requires solder and flux to be done correctly. But, usually there is already a little solder residue on the iron's tip. If you are tinning edge foil on a project or a foiled piece, just apply flux to it, and drag the iron along the foil. Solder will be deposited. Hope that answered your question. Thanks for watching!
I'm curious. Why wash it off the flux from the front before you do the back?
Flux on both sides can make the solder run through quicker. It also keeps your project from being so gross and nasty with all the dirt it holds onto.
@@LadyBerz I wonder if Kester 311 core 63/37 would work for your projects? It’s aggressive water soluble organic flux.
Sorry me again what iron brand are you using here?
Hakko. This one’s really old. it’s a 456 model. but since then we’ve upgraded to Hakko FX-601
Hakko!
Not sure why it’s necessary to clean flux off first side before soldering other side?
Flux on both sides can accelerate the solder run-through. That and too much heat in one spot.
Flux will corrode glass if left on too long and will show as brown line you wont get off
Are you using copper foil and then flux
Yep, we are!
Couldnt you just not tack it and just solder from the beginning, since the jig is holding your whole piece together anyway?
Yes, you could. It's down to individual preference. Some feel a bit too 'claustrophobic' or 'closed in' when they solder something small with barriers up.
If your solder ends up that pronounced and with that kind of tool marking, anyway.. Why not just use lead came in any piece that you want to be of high quality?
I teach a copper foil method class, so I'm trying to emphasize control of the tools. Thanks for watching!
Why do you say sodder?
VideoDeadGaming Where I am from, this is how it is pronounced.
LadyBerz Weird! Nice vid btw :)
VideoDeadGaming I'm probably from the same area LadyBerz is. My question is, how do you say it? :D
Evilstepqueen Just how it's spelt "solder"
VideoDeadGaming She says that because it's correct.
Why do American's leave out the "L" in soldering? It's not soddering, it's soLdering. It's not sodder, it's soLder.
You know, that's a very good question @MikeAG333. I guess it's just something we Americans keep doing for some reason ;-)
americans didn't drop it, brits added it in. the original word is from french, which doesn't pronounce the 'L'.
live long to the metric system