Framing a Stained Glass Panel with 1/8" Flat U Came
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2013
- Here I demonstrate how I cut, bend and solder 1/8" framing channel or came onto a stained glass project. I also add rings and a chain This type of frame is really ideal for smaller panels, up to around 24" x 30."
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Your tutorials are the BEST, by far on the internet. Thank you!
Wow, thanks! And thanks for watching!
Very well done and useful instructional video. Answered all of the little questions that were keeping me from moving forward. Best video I've come across for framing a project. Thank you for taking the time to do it.
Thanks for watching :-)
Really appreciate your kind and generous instructions! Beautifully done, precise and easy to understand!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching!
Very helpful, detailed and most of all inspiring, for those who love arts and feel lazy to push the start button like me. Thank you so much Ms. LadyBerz...:)
Ertan Akdeniz Thank you for watching!
Thank you for this very informative and clear tutorial. By watching, I figured a solution to my glass squares and how to frame them!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Awesome tutorial thank you for such an easier explanation with great detail. Now I am not so intimidated to try using this material.
You're very welcome! You've got this! :-)
Beautiful job. Really loved your video.
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much. This helped me figure out several things I did wrong on my first few pieces.
Glad it helped!
Just discovered your channel. You really have some excellent information and I thank you so very much.
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!
A new project I am going to try was a bit unsure but this lady is excellent you can listen to her voice ( unlike some videos when all you can hear is a squeaky voice that sounds like a cat that has caught its tail on something nasty) . I find this lady very talented and professional. Brilliant 🤩 thankyou
Aww, thanks for the compliment. And thank you for watching!
This makes me much more confident. Thanks!
I'm so glad! You got this :-)
Thanks for the video! Was informative prior to purchasing U channel for small projects.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :-)
This was so helpful. Thank you so much
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!
All this with great painted nails!... Lol Thank you so much for great tutorial. kind regards Worrell Robinson.
ha...usually my hands look ghastly in my videos. Thought I'd make them look nice for the 10 minutes of filming!
Glad this video helped- thank you for watching!
Thank you for the instruction .
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
good afternoon and thank you for the amazing video. what size of glass did you use and brass to make the glass fit in the frame. in mm? like 4 mm brass and 2 mm glass?
Hi! The majority of glass made is somewhere in the 2mm-4mm width range. It varies by type and brand. The 1/8" channel should accomodate pretty much all glass, unless it is some special, super-thick glass. Use the lathekin tool as shown in the video to slightly widen the channel to accomodate slightly thicker glass. Here, I think I'm using 'single strength' clear, which is around 2.5mm thick. Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial... thank you! I see that there's 1/8 and 3/16 width came. Obviously, it depends on the width of my glass, but which is more standard? I'm new to this, but I'm doing a rectangular window that measures 12" x 34".
For smaller panels, use the 1/8" U. For a 12" x 34" panel like yours, I'd be more comfortable using the next size up, for sturdiness.
What size project would you start using restrip and the zinc frame? I suppose the zinc frame can be used aesthetically on smaller projects and to strengthen on larger projects. but what size would require restrip?
Every design is different, but I would only use restrip if your design is a long rectangular shape, putting it simply. If you use the more sturdy zinc frames, as in those that have interior reinforcement, then restrip might not be necessary. The frame will keep the window nice and sturdy. Some folks use both, every time. Restrip is always nice to use when you have a larger panel, like over three feet, say. It will help keep the panel flat when moving it around, and keep it from warping or bending. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your speedy response. Thank you so much for posting such awesome tutorials. (greetings from South Africa)
Did you have to stretch your came first? If not, what exact type of came are you using please?
Hi- the came that you have to stretch is lead came, which we're not using here. The type I'm using here is made of zinc (which is the silver toned one,) brass, and copper. It is all relatively stiff. Search the net for "1/8" flat U came" or substitute the word "channel." You can use lead came for round panels, and yes, it's good to stretch it first, as it will stretch on its own if you don't. Thanks for watching!
Cool tut, was trying to hack saw 45 corners, seemed like there should be a faster way, is overlap more standard than 45?
You can do either, and it's totally fine :-)
Thank you for this wideo. Where do you buy these flaat U came? I need all of them)
+Алёна Фалеева If you are in the Ukraine, I would search the internet for this. Use keywords like "flat zinc came," OR "U-channel" and the words "brass" "copper" or "zinc." There may be a company near you who can send some to you. Good luck!
+LadyBerz thank you for answer) I search came in Russia!!! Can I ask another question: what iron do you use for your work?
+Алёна Фалеева I have used Hakko 456 irons, but now I use Hakko FX-601 irons. Search the internet for these as well. Ask any questions you like!
So talent! I have a brass sheet metal and it’s 0.2mm thick, but how can I make it a brass channel? I hope you can reply me. Thank you
Brass channel is specially manufactured and bent into a sharp U-shape. I wouldn't try making it yourself. You can look it up and buy it using this search phrase "1/8" U Brass Came"
Hi. Have a question. I want to hang the frame by the window with chain. What’s tool to use after making framing channel?
You can find 1/4" nickel plated jump rings, or you can bend some 16 gauge copper or brass wire unto an upside-down U shapes, and tack them to the corners (on the back side) of the panel. Solder to the corners only. The panel's weight is best supported if you attach them there.
Where can I find that cutter tool that you used to cut zinc? I am having trouble locating that tool. Do you know the name of the tool?
+Rio Wray Look up "side cutters" "wire snips" or "flush cutter." You can check the tool or electrical supply section of any hardware store. Thanks for watching!
+LadyBerz - Thanks for quick reply. Much appreciated!!
What is the best material to frame the edges of a stained glass window that is a 16" x 20" oval? I want something that is flexible enough to bend for the curves but that won't stretch or sag over time from the weight of the piece being hung. I've used brass ladder chain in the past but I'm not sure that's the best edging for such a large piece. Thanks!
+Kathleen Hassink I think ladder chain is good, as long as it's a heavy enough gauge (16 or 14 at least) and tacked to as many edge seams as it can be. The only other things I have seen, other than custom made wood frames for ovals are twisted lead came that wraps around the edge, and flexible brass frame. (anythinginstainedglass.com/finishing/brass-channel.jpg) If anyone is reading this, I'd love to hear other suggestions. Thanks for watching!
what is the strongest channel
the nikel seems to be replated on metal
I plan to make a ceiling light at 45 degrees on the sides and I have been told that it will not hold without a metal blacksmith frame, is the frma niket sufficient?
Hi, This came definitely would not work for you! There are lamp parts that are used in stained glass that are made of brass, mostly. Do some research on different shapes of stained glass ceiling lamps, and the hardware you'd need. Size of the lamp, number of pieces greatly affect the overall weight, hence the type of hardware you'd need for it to be sturdy.
@@LadyBerz I finally find a solution I put an iron rod inside a zinc channel by staming the front iron tif and passing to the touch all is shedding together and here is a very strong montage for a ceiling light like pyramid hole and inquired
Do you have to stretch the zinc channel first?
Nope, zinc is soft, but not like lead, which does need stretching. BUT zinc frame, if it’s stored in 6 foot lengths, does warp and bow a little. So before using it, you may have to do a little gentle straightening (work it slightly in the opposite direction that it’s bending). Hope that helps- thanks for watching!
If you patina your panel and then frame it, how do you patina the frame? Do you solder it first and then patina it?
Always try to get all soldering out of the way before patina. You can use special patina made for zinc. I am not a fan of it, because I don't find it to work well. If you really want to have a good matching patina, you can tin the whole frame, then patinate. More time consuming, but be careful with zinc. It has a pretty low melting point, not that far off from the solder, so just be quick with it! No holding the iron in one spot for a long time. :-)
Would using Brass frame be a lower risk for heating to tin it? Like if I know for sure I will tin it so that I can patina to match should I just use brass or copper if Zinc had a lower melt point?
@@kaleecristahunter1456 Yes, brass and copper won’t be melted with a standard soldering iron.
Where do you get your came supplies?
We get stuff from Ed Hoy's International in Illinois. You can get some from Amazon!
How can you put stain glass in an aluminum frame?
I've always used zinc, brass or copper only. I think you might have trouble soldering 60/40 tin/lead solder to it. It needs a different type of solder. Might want to look it up before trying.
hello! where can I buy this framminng channel?😀
Search “zinc U-came 1/8” channel” and it’ll be cut down from 6’ lengths.
What is the name of these cutters???
Wire snips, side cutters, wire cutters. My favorite brand is Lindstrom.
Zinc isn't "bendy".
That's more likely a lead came. Please take appropriate precautions.
+Mike Hubbeling Nope, it's zinc. A 6' strip of 1/8" zinc U-came is way more flimsy than, say 9/32" or 3/8" zinc, which are both reinforced inside. Both of those are very sturdy and rigid. I only use the 1/8" on smaller projects because of this.
The "zinc" you are showing is not true zinc. It looks and acts more like lead came. Zinc is sturdy and takes a saw to cut it and it's not "bendy". I like your video but the materials are incorrect. Thank you.
Nope, this is zinc came. At the gauge that it is, and in longer lengths, it is bendy. Soft and thin enough to be cut with snips. Here is one supplier:
www.delphiglass.com/lead-came-supplies/zinc-copper-brass/1-8-flat-u-zinc-came-6-ft-piece