Those look awesome. Reading /watching about people upgrading klipsch lead me into buying horn speakers. Right now I’m using two artpro cx310 three way active crossovers. One for each channel. You could mount your crossovers extremely and then experiment rather easily with different crossovers and lose horn/drivers. You could even get a dbx drive rack that would let you do dsp and time alignment and everything. Looks like it would be right up your alley. I was also wondering what you thought about the Chicago horn guys.
Looks like you’ve done a great job, should sound very nice. Will you be taking any ferromagnetic magnetic material out of the binding post assembly, like steel washers and nuts etc.?
👋 Hello sir. Might I ask what the reason is for removing magnet material from the binding post assembly like you were asking about? I was just curious. Cheers!
Nice, you have certainly enough space to put these bigger crossovers in 😊 The wire gauge is a little over the top but it won´t hurt (16 AWG is already more then sufficient for these lenghts)
Hey DAVID, have you finished your cabinets yet? I finished my Cornwall4 makeovers for good about a month ago. Your Horn dampening video inspired me so I did mine the next week, and your video with the metallic parts in the binding posts made me dive in big time! If you haven’t finished your bracing, even if you have, I could fill you in on what worked best for mine as I went back in about three times to dial the bracing in, yahoo! The first time was after your video on bracing from the front board to the back. Mine were already done so I had to take them apart and brace. It didn’t sound quite right, so I went back in re-modified and nailed it. The crossover pieces look very close if not identical as when I started mine Danny Ritchie had a crossover somebody sent him so they can get the specs and parts, so he made me a kit with the OEM values. If you or anybody else likes, you can get a hold of me and ask the specific details I did. It maybe be too long-winded for these comments as the post above may be. I can also fill you in on the sound characteristics and differences.
Good parts, but this assumes the standard crossover design was already good. Did you not look at the GR-Research upgrade/fix? Or add by pass caps on the large Poly caps but looks like Sonicaps - good choice
@@searing7549 Thanks for the tip. 😂 Seriously, I wanted the inductors spaced as far apart as possible and I may use the parts some other way in the future, so it keeps my options open.
Do your new air core inductors have the same DCR (DC resistance) as the iron or steel laminate cores they replaced? Also, replacing a small gauge air core with a large gauge air core will most certainly change the DCR. Different DCRs can change the sound. You definitely need to put some strain relief on those wires coming off the board going to the input terminals and drivers, even if just a blob of silicone. JMHO. I know you're not done with these so forgive me if I mention something you're aware of.
I’m not sure that dampening cabinet and horn resonances will help the sound of these speakers. It is possible that these resonances are important to the voicing of the speakers sound characteristics. Thank you for showing and telling us about these great speakers. I’m interested to hear about what you do with the crossovers and cabinets.
@@georgeswanson9483 I’ve been hoping for years that someone local to them would drop off some C4’s for measurement. Never happened. Perhaps I should have shipped him one of mine?
@@thebostonaudiophile That'd be pricy and risky but I think that there'd be a good chance it'd get you quite a lot of improvement. That being said, I'd say just enjoy your upgraded crossovers for a while since you've made the investment. There's no hurry.
I just did mine a couple months ago and DANNY copied all the specs from somebody else’s crossover they sent in. I figured they have a very nice balance and ROY and the boys at Klipsch did a good job there on these. I like your bracing a little better than mine, I will add the strips from the motor board to the back. Looking at your crossovers, are you mounting them to the back wall? as to mount mine to the base I had to move the air core inductors so they wouldn’t be running into the airhorns on the bottom.
Nice work once again. While copper wire air core inductors are nice. I've always been a fan of Copper Foil Inductors since 30 years ago when I did my 1st DIY Speakers. It does get pricey as you go up in mH's though. The SoniCaps Guy won't deal woth me anymore and I'd spent a few bucks on his website in the past. So I went ALL Mundorf (Caps, Inductors, Resistors, and gave my business to Madisound instead of SoniCraft. His loss. No skin off of my Ass. I recently removed everything off of the old PCB and did point to point wiring and separated the 3 Xovers into individual boxes. ruclips.net/video/t0EVWc6KBHs/видео.htmlsi=ZggVteirqjsRJ5h_ ruclips.net/video/iNpSBtLToKo/видео.htmlsi=xExLc8DJlhks-xXy
Great video, very interesting and informative.
Thank you for posting this.. 🎶 🙂
Nice Video! I'm going to be replacing the stock capacitors on my Heresy IVs with Jantzen Z-Caps soon.
Looks great. Looking forward to the results. Cornwall IV owner here who has been toying with the idea of doing something similar.
Looks like a lot of fun. The stock speaker looks to be well made but obviously on a budget.
Those look awesome. W
Those look awesome. Reading /watching about people upgrading klipsch lead me into buying horn speakers. Right now I’m using two artpro cx310 three way active crossovers. One for each channel. You could mount your crossovers extremely and then experiment rather easily with different crossovers and lose horn/drivers. You could even get a dbx drive rack that would let you do dsp and time alignment and everything. Looks like it would be right up your alley. I was also wondering what you thought about the Chicago horn guys.
Very interested in your results. I am a relatively new owner of a pair of Corneall IV's, so I'll be watching!
Is it possible for you to list the crossover parts and how to get them?
Looks like you’ve done a great job, should sound very nice. Will you be taking any ferromagnetic magnetic material out of the binding post assembly, like steel washers and nuts etc.?
👋 Hello sir. Might I ask what the reason is for removing magnet material from the binding post assembly like you were asking about? I was just curious. Cheers!
Very nice job, what are the most noticeable sonic changes? Looking forward to your comments.
Nice, you have certainly enough space to put these bigger crossovers in 😊 The wire gauge is a little over the top but it won´t hurt (16 AWG is already more then sufficient for these lenghts)
Hey DAVID, have you finished your cabinets yet? I finished my Cornwall4 makeovers for good about a month ago. Your Horn dampening video inspired me so I did mine the next week, and your video with the metallic parts in the binding posts made me dive in big time!
If you haven’t finished your bracing, even if you have, I could fill you in on what worked best for mine as I went back in about three times to dial the bracing in, yahoo! The first time was after your video on bracing from the front board to the back. Mine were already done so I had to take them apart and brace. It didn’t sound quite right, so I went back in re-modified and nailed it.
The crossover pieces look very close if not identical as when I started mine Danny Ritchie had a crossover somebody sent him so they can get the specs and parts, so he made me a kit with the OEM values.
If you or anybody else likes, you can get a hold of me and ask the specific details I did. It maybe be too long-winded for these comments as the post above may be.
I can also fill you in on the sound characteristics and differences.
On my comment above on modifying my Cornwall4s I wanna wait till DAVID gives us impressions before I Give any of mine.
update on the sound?
Very interesting! How did you figure out the values of the inductors?
Great video. Would you be willing to share the values of the inductors?
Good parts, but this assumes the standard crossover design was already good. Did you not look at the GR-Research upgrade/fix? Or add by pass caps on the large Poly caps but looks like Sonicaps - good choice
What the specific type of dynamite used
Do you have a favorite test track when evaluating modifications?
@@drdiesel1 Not one, many. I’ll try to mention some in the video I do describing the sonic changes.
@@thebostonaudiophile Super, look forward to it!
Ya’ know it’s okay to clip that extra length on those passive components? 😅
@@searing7549 Thanks for the tip. 😂 Seriously, I wanted the inductors spaced as far apart as possible and I may use the parts some other way in the future, so it keeps my options open.
Do your new air core inductors have the same DCR (DC resistance) as the iron or steel laminate cores they replaced? Also, replacing a small gauge air core with a large gauge air core will most certainly change the DCR. Different DCRs can change the sound.
You definitely need to put some strain relief on those wires coming off the board going to the input terminals and drivers, even if just a blob of silicone. JMHO. I know you're not done with these so forgive me if I mention something you're aware of.
@@djg6015 True re DCR. I did keep strain relief in mind when attaching the leads that go to the drivers and speaker jacks.
I’m not sure that dampening cabinet and horn resonances will help the sound of these speakers. It is possible that these resonances are important to the voicing of the speakers sound characteristics.
Thank you for showing and telling us about these great speakers.
I’m interested to hear about what you do with the crossovers and cabinets.
Have you considered taking one of the speakers to Danny at GR Research to have them measured and see what could be improved?
@@georgeswanson9483 I’ve been hoping for years that someone local to them would drop off some C4’s for measurement. Never happened. Perhaps I should have shipped him one of mine?
@@thebostonaudiophile That'd be pricy and risky but I think that there'd be a good chance it'd get you quite a lot of improvement. That being said, I'd say just enjoy your upgraded crossovers for a while since you've made the investment. There's no hurry.
I just did mine a couple months ago and DANNY copied all the specs from somebody else’s crossover they sent in. I figured they have a very nice balance and ROY and the boys at Klipsch did a good job there on these. I like your bracing a little better than mine, I will add the strips from the motor board to the back.
Looking at your crossovers, are you mounting them to the back wall? as to mount mine to the base I had to move the air core inductors so they wouldn’t be running into the airhorns on the bottom.
Nice work once again. While copper wire air core inductors are nice. I've always been a fan of Copper Foil Inductors since 30 years ago when I did my 1st DIY Speakers. It does get pricey as you go up in mH's though. The SoniCaps Guy won't deal woth me anymore and I'd spent a few bucks on his website in the past. So I went ALL Mundorf (Caps, Inductors, Resistors, and gave my business to Madisound instead of SoniCraft. His loss. No skin off of my Ass.
I recently removed everything off of the old PCB and did point to point wiring and separated the 3 Xovers into individual boxes.
ruclips.net/video/t0EVWc6KBHs/видео.htmlsi=ZggVteirqjsRJ5h_
ruclips.net/video/iNpSBtLToKo/видео.htmlsi=xExLc8DJlhks-xXy
@@joeygsaudiochannel3972 I saw your videos. Very nice job!
I didn’t go as “all out” as you did, but I still hear a big improvement.