Terima kasih, videonya sangat bermanfaat karena saya punya masalah yang sama. Terima kasih sekali lagi, salam dari indonesia, propinsi NTT, Kota Kefamenanu. 🙏🙏
In the middle of doing this job. Came across this when looking for instructions on bleeding the fuel lines. This is a pig of a job! I also took off my intake as I struggled to get my hands in there (I also wanted to clean it). So many little lines in the way! Thanks for the video mate. Super helpful.
I can do that in the future. I usually remove the intake manifold from the engine and use degreaser and various kitchen scrubbers to clean down the intake runners 👍🏻
Hello! I have an Urvan with a ZD30 engine. I have a question: When I take them out, the Glow Plugs come out full of black oil. The tip (where it heats) is dry. Is there any gasket inside the valve cover that insulates the heaters from this? Or is it normal that the heaters in this ZD30 Model get so much oil stained? (Clarification: the tip is not stained, just upwards). The problem with my car is that it is ver difficult to start and the mechanical workshop has told me that the glow plugs cannot be full of oil, otherwise it will not start well. They think that the tip is also full of oil so they blame the problem on the head gasket, but the radiator is not bubbling or leaking oil, which is confirmed when I see the dry tips and the compresion its Ok inside the cilinders. So the only thing left for me is to find out if it is normal for the top part to be so full of oil. My apologies if it is "a lot of text" but in my country there are few experts or connoisseurs of ZD30 engines and I am paying mechanics who do not know about the engine and they say one thing, and in the end they are not :/
Hello so the glow plugs are inserted through the rocker cover and into the head. There is a seal at the top that often fails and will cause the top of the glow plug where the buss bar mounts to become oily and leak oil over the intake manifold. Under that seal the glow plugs are in the head beside the camshaft so this part of the glow plug is normal to become oily. There is then a thread where the glow plug screws into the head and below the thread will have carbon build up on it. This is what they will look like but it can be hard to visually identify if a glow plug has failed, you can test them with a multimeter if you need. I would recommend replacing them as they are not expensive and they are a consumable component, they will fail eventually and require replacing 👍🏻 Hope this helps👍🏻
The best tool for working on a Troll, especially if you have bigger boots on them, an Over-Wheel Step. Cheap and way handy for troll-works. While messing around with the glow plugs, making a set of power cables for the GP's and get rid of the shitty metal bus strip. When doing the seals, replace the plugs as I will bet you have more than one in there with a tip gone. Injector seals, yeah, lines must be loosend at the pump. EGR pipe is in the way along with brackets. Good time to FIX one of the biggest ZD30 killers, the EGR shit. Pro-Tip, degrease the donk before you work on them. Best advice I can give after doing a few of these, do all the seals at same time, take the rocker cover off so you get all the shit out that you WILL DROP in it. Your cranking is very slow, crappy battery cables and sad starter results in slow crank and hard-starts.
Awesome tips mate I’ll look into one of those tyre steps, I’m going to do an engine swap soon so only blocked up what was leaking to get me by but changing the plugs while you’re there is a great idea. As for the poor crank the previous owner had a deep cycle as the cranking battery 😂 I’ve since swapped it out and cranks much better 👌🏻 thanks for the tips 👍🏻
@@bentheguru4986 yeah not wrong, I just wanted something that sounds better than the ZD and I could throw in easily that wouldn’t take all the extra work of a full conversion.
Hey mate I was close to replacing the engine mounts but I will be swapping the engine out for a different engine so I wont be replacing the mounts anymore.
I'm losing lot of oil I don't know from where on my Zd30 ! how to be more confident that issue comes from injector/glow plugs seals ? Might be the issue as it appear to be quite common.
You can usually tell if it is the Injector/glow plug seals by the amount of oil around the top and rear of the engine. Its very easy to see if you remove the intercooler from the top and look around the intake manifold. There will be lots of oil around this area.
Thanks for the vid. How did you get to the injector line clamp that holds all 4 together? There are two 10mm bolts, one which I just about can access the other no chance. There's also one 12mm(?) Bolt holding the bracket on but it's behind the injector lines and I can't get any ratchet or spanner onto it. Last option is to completely remove the EGR valve and see if that gives me anymore room to work with. New sub btw, helpful content! Cheers!
Thanks mate 👍🏻 I had to remove most of the EGR system that is under the intake. The more you take out the more room you get but mean more parts to put back together again.
@@ReubsModifications Cheers man. About to go tackle this job again in the cold with limited daylight so need to not waste time scratching my bullocks like yesterday. Knowing this I'll crack on and take out the EGR. Been looking on the forums and couldn't find a definite answer on this. You've been a big help man. Thanks again 👍
@@ReubsModifications sorted it 👍 removed the EGR valve - just the 3 or 4bolts holding it on, so it was lose, then could get access to the bracket and remove the injector lines. Impossible to do without this like you said in the vid. Trying to sort a pretty nasty oil leak and hoping this is the cause, and it's nothing more major like the crankshaft seal
Good day mate, im gonna get my ZD30Di injector seals serviced also, but i stumbled upon one with a 13276-2W211B part number online and had a "frontier" on its title, from my researching 13276-2W211 are the ones for patrols, or are these just about the same? What does the "B" at the end stand for? And have you installed replacements like those before do they hold up as well as the genuine ones? Cheers, from Philippines
Hey mate, I searched online for 13276-2W211B and only got results for 13276-2W211. I think the parts are the same as I have both ZD30 from a Patrol and Navara and they look identical. I have only installed non genuine seals and they have worked well.
Thanks so much making a series on the Patrol/ZD30Di! Keep them coming and keep up the good work!
Thanks mate glad you like them 🤙🏻
Terima kasih, videonya sangat bermanfaat karena saya punya masalah yang sama. Terima kasih sekali lagi, salam dari indonesia, propinsi NTT, Kota Kefamenanu. 🙏🙏
In the middle of doing this job. Came across this when looking for instructions on bleeding the fuel lines. This is a pig of a job! I also took off my intake as I struggled to get my hands in there (I also wanted to clean it). So many little lines in the way!
Thanks for the video mate. Super helpful.
Awesome to hear that this helped mate, it sure can be a tight space to try and reach down into 👍🏻
Great video , well put together thanks mate
Thanks mate 👍
Ive just done this 3 things yesterday and yes, the cause of my leaking is glow plug seals and injector seals.
Is it all sorted now? No more leaks?
@@ReubsModifications yes boss, very clean and no leaks
@@mrpoks4282 great to hear 👍🏻
very nice and thanks
Thanks mate!
good job mate
Thanks Mate 🤙
hi! great video! Can you please make a video of the intake manifold cleaning?
I can do that in the future. I usually remove the intake manifold from the engine and use degreaser and various kitchen scrubbers to clean down the intake runners 👍🏻
I would love to see that as well. Everyone says it's a big job, but I haven't found any videos on RUclips yet how to do it on zd30
Hello!
I have an Urvan with a ZD30 engine. I have a question:
When I take them out, the Glow Plugs come out full of black oil. The tip (where it heats) is dry.
Is there any gasket inside the valve cover that insulates the heaters from this? Or is it normal that the heaters in this ZD30 Model get so much oil stained? (Clarification: the tip is not stained, just upwards).
The problem with my car is that it is ver difficult to start and the mechanical workshop has told me that the glow plugs cannot be full of oil, otherwise it will not start well. They think that the tip is also full of oil so they blame the problem on the head gasket, but the radiator is not bubbling or leaking oil, which is confirmed when I see the dry tips and the compresion its Ok inside the cilinders. So the only thing left for me is to find out if it is normal for the top part to be so full of oil.
My apologies if it is "a lot of text" but in my country there are few experts or connoisseurs of ZD30 engines and I am paying mechanics who do not know about the engine and they say one thing, and in the end they are not :/
Hello so the glow plugs are inserted through the rocker cover and into the head. There is a seal at the top that often fails and will cause the top of the glow plug where the buss bar mounts to become oily and leak oil over the intake manifold. Under that seal the glow plugs are in the head beside the camshaft so this part of the glow plug is normal to become oily. There is then a thread where the glow plug screws into the head and below the thread will have carbon build up on it.
This is what they will look like but it can be hard to visually identify if a glow plug has failed, you can test them with a multimeter if you need.
I would recommend replacing them as they are not expensive and they are a consumable component, they will fail eventually and require replacing 👍🏻
Hope this helps👍🏻
@@ReubsModifications Thanks, the info is gold!
@@zoishiworld no problem 👍🏻
Got any tips on how to remove intake manifold on d22 zd30
The best tool for working on a Troll, especially if you have bigger boots on them, an Over-Wheel Step. Cheap and way handy for troll-works.
While messing around with the glow plugs, making a set of power cables for the GP's and get rid of the shitty metal bus strip. When doing the seals, replace the plugs as I will bet you have more than one in there with a tip gone.
Injector seals, yeah, lines must be loosend at the pump. EGR pipe is in the way along with brackets. Good time to FIX one of the biggest ZD30 killers, the EGR shit. Pro-Tip, degrease the donk before you work on them.
Best advice I can give after doing a few of these, do all the seals at same time, take the rocker cover off so you get all the shit out that you WILL DROP in it.
Your cranking is very slow, crappy battery cables and sad starter results in slow crank and hard-starts.
Awesome tips mate I’ll look into one of those tyre steps, I’m going to do an engine swap soon so only blocked up what was leaking to get me by but changing the plugs while you’re there is a great idea. As for the poor crank the previous owner had a deep cycle as the cranking battery 😂 I’ve since swapped it out and cranks much better 👌🏻 thanks for the tips 👍🏻
@@ReubsModifications swapping in what is the question now being asked?
the good ol nissan forklift motor, love the sound of an old diesel
@@ReubsModifications Oh no, not another TD Kettle conversion. Money pits for low figures. Done to death.
@@bentheguru4986 yeah not wrong, I just wanted something that sounds better than the ZD and I could throw in easily that wouldn’t take all the extra work of a full conversion.
How did you get to the bolt for where the 4 fuel lines meet?
With great difficulty and swearing 😂 from memory I used an extension and wobbly drive
Gracias amigo tengo mismo problema mi terrano bota haceite por los retenes de los inyectores
Espero que este video te ayude a reparar los sellos de tus inyectores.
@@ReubsModifications consulta al sacar las cañerías después al darle arranque te costo pra partir
Can you make a video about changing the engine mounts for zd30 patrol? Thanks
Hey mate I was close to replacing the engine mounts but I will be swapping the engine out for a different engine so I wont be replacing the mounts anymore.
I'm losing lot of oil I don't know from where on my Zd30 ! how to be more confident that issue comes from injector/glow plugs seals ?
Might be the issue as it appear to be quite common.
You can usually tell if it is the Injector/glow plug seals by the amount of oil around the top and rear of the engine. Its very easy to see if you remove the intercooler from the top and look around the intake manifold. There will be lots of oil around this area.
Amigo se pueden canbiar los sellos de los inyectores sin sacar el multiple de admision
Es muy complicado
Yes it is possible however I would not recommend it for beginners as it can cause damage to the injector lines
Thanks for the vid. How did you get to the injector line clamp that holds all 4 together? There are two 10mm bolts, one which I just about can access the other no chance. There's also one 12mm(?) Bolt holding the bracket on but it's behind the injector lines and I can't get any ratchet or spanner onto it.
Last option is to completely remove the EGR valve and see if that gives me anymore room to work with. New sub btw, helpful content!
Cheers!
Thanks mate 👍🏻 I had to remove most of the EGR system that is under the intake. The more you take out the more room you get but mean more parts to put back together again.
@@ReubsModifications Cheers man. About to go tackle this job again in the cold with limited daylight so need to not waste time scratching my bullocks like yesterday. Knowing this I'll crack on and take out the EGR. Been looking on the forums and couldn't find a definite answer on this. You've been a big help man. Thanks again 👍
@@Michael-mh5pu that’s awesome to hear mate glad I could help, how did you end up going?
@@ReubsModifications sorted it 👍 removed the EGR valve - just the 3 or 4bolts holding it on, so it was lose, then could get access to the bracket and remove the injector lines. Impossible to do without this like you said in the vid.
Trying to sort a pretty nasty oil leak and hoping this is the cause, and it's nothing more major like the crankshaft seal
Good day mate, im gonna get my ZD30Di injector seals serviced also, but i stumbled upon one with a 13276-2W211B part number online and had a "frontier" on its title, from my researching 13276-2W211 are the ones for patrols, or are these just about the same? What does the "B" at the end stand for? And have you installed replacements like those before do they hold up as well as the genuine ones? Cheers, from Philippines
Hey mate, I searched online for 13276-2W211B and only got results for 13276-2W211. I think the parts are the same as I have both ZD30 from a Patrol and Navara and they look identical. I have only installed non genuine seals and they have worked well.