I watched this video yesterday and put my new found knowledge to use today. I am pleased to say it went reasonably well, not with out any hitches, but it is done and the trains get around there, which is good. Thinking about making a trip to your country next year, done trans Canada on 'The Canadian', now I think I would like to do the Indian Pacific.
Good for you Ian! Glad you had a win and all is good, especially on your first go! I must say if you've done the Canadian, like I did in 2015, the Indian Pacific's going to be a bit bland..LOL But it is a good trip and you'll go on the longest section of straight rail in the world, over 400km in a dead straight line! Let me know if you decide to come on down! Cheers Gregg.
Hi Mark! I tried to use them on my layout , but I didn't make room for the easement with the overall diameter, so I had to cheat a bit! Just remember that the transition takes up extra room at each end! Thanks for watching. Gregg.
Great (and in depth) explanation Gregg. I have been trying to figure out how I would be able to ease into my turns while building my layout. Now I have it (I think), make the straights wider, then transition into the radius I want. I may need a larger train room now. LOL! Thanks for the information!!! Cheers, Dan
Thanks Danny! You have it mate, thats the golden rule to leave room for the straights! Having a centre line on the curves makes it heaps easier. We all need a bigger train room!! Cheers Gregg.
hi Gregg... i wish i would have known about transition curves when i built my layout... i guess i need to tear it down & start over... LOL... awesome tutorial .. thanks for sharing.. vinny
I think you have enough to keep you busy for a while yet Vinny!! Being N scale you have more room to have broader curves so maybe it's not as noticeable? Too much other neat stuff to look at on the Peavine!! Thanks for watching Sir! Gregg.
Thanks for taking the time to explain and show how to make an easement for model railroads. I just wish you had done tis video a year ago when I started my project. Used a book that explained it, but there's nothing like tell and show. LOL Great job on the video!! Cheers D. Muse WTCMRR
You're welcome David! I remember reading about these when I started out in " Track Planning for realistic operation" and that was a long time ago..LOL Glad you liked the videos! Cheers Gregg.
Great video on curves, I attempted to use paper for a template, it was a pain using the magic marker it kept moving. Great advice ones again, cheers Terry. Can't wait to see the video on scenery. Lol
Thanks Terry! I thought about cardboard but I think thin ply or hardboard is the go and I share your pain with the paper..LOL Video on scenery??????? Gregg:-)
My plan is to make an actual template and cut it out of fiberboard, as you show. One side will be as shown, a left turn, then when you flip it over it becomes a right turn. Great explanation on creating the transition.
Thats what I plan to do also Hardie! Don't forget to put a small section of straight before the curve starts, this will make setting it up easy. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it. Cheers Gregg.
Great video Gregg. I used a computer program to make mine; Anyrail calls them "curve easements". Mine are mostly 12'' long with a few at 18", only because I figured the length of a locomotive was about right. Wish I would have known about the NMRA recommendations it would have been easy to make them longer.
Never trust a computer Ben, always trust your Uncle Gregg!! Just remember to get down at track level when laying your track and look along the rails and you'll pick up a fraction of a mm in alignment...thats what we do at work even after the track machines go through! Look forward to seeing nice curves on the layout!! Cheers Gregg.
Could you please send your winter this way. I really don't want snow this year. I wish I knew this before I laid my track, sure would have made things easier. I will have to use this information when I lay the rest of the track.
It has been cold down here Scott but no snow! They have had some big snow falls down south and it has been down to almost freezing out on track at night a week ago! Thanks for watching sir! Gregg:-)
Hey Greg when do ya think you will be showing how to do the blocks on a layout for doing the signals on a layout. Great explanation on transitioning only thing is i don't think i will be able to do it no room. Thanx Joe
Thanks Chris! The same in N scale, just the dimensions will be less of course! Also on N scale you have more room to have broader curves! Cheers Gregg.
Greg, if your doing close to 90 degree turn you really only have a small portion at a given radius correct? You would have transitions on both ends of radius correct?
Nice Gregg really really nice, as you are in the rail industry, to help my modeling method, how do you suggest going about making well whats the mathematical formula (or rule of thumb) for making grade adjusted curves. i.e a 2.2 percent grade and a tight curve they make the grade lessened slightly to maintain the same weight on the draw bar, its really complicated mathematically to do is there a rule of thumb you know about Uncle Gregg??ehehe. or anyone?? Cheers
Thanks very much Alan! What you describe are "Compensated " grades, and in the real world they make grades as small as practical and then add the degree of curvature and other stuff! I dropped my grades from 2% to about 1.8% and that about made up for the 30' curves. I did a draw bar or number of cars test while building the layout and dropping the grade to 1.8% was about right so you could work on that! If your curves are tighter then mine then take another bit off. The maths are very in depth and over the top for us..LOL Cheers Gregg.
Hey Gregg, beauty of a video, as I am about to start my bench work today, where do you suggest to start super elevation? At the beginning of the transition, or just before?
Thank you Sir! Super elevation and transitions......very flash indeed! I would start during the transition, maybe halfway or a bit before but not on the straight. Be very gentle raising the outer rail and you don't need very much. Let us know when you have some done to show!! Cheers Gregg.
Hi Gregg. Lynn here. Not to bring up a sore subject regarding your MTH troubles. But going back to then how did you overcome the polarity issues with the headlight and ditch lights. Thank you for your time.
Hi Lynn, Ahhh, the old MTH! Its still sitting on the bench with a blown motor that was faulty from the start! I will be selling it as I've had enough of it. The ditch light board has the headlight on it too so I cut the light tube from the headlight and installed a LED glued to the light tube at the headlights. then you can switch the ditch light s on without the headlight coming on as well. This took hours but worked well but then the motor issue was the last straw as it's a huge job to remove all the stuff to get to the motor, which are hard to get anyway! Shame because it is a nice model. Cheers Gregg.
someone please tell me why YOU ALL, not ME, worry about the ever moving and inconsistent "center of track" for measurements instead of the rail itself. Everyone is guestimating all of their track work if they are going off center of track...
Hi Kent, you have to start somewhere and the centre line is a base for your roadbed...NOT your track! I work with the real thing and we use measurements from all sorts of bases like platforms and masts through to pegs in the ground! Track centres are used for track spacings on dual track and then the track machines align the track within these measurements. When laying cork roadbed , it is much easier to use the middle "clean cut" edge rather than the rough tapered edge , and then you have "wiggle" room to lay your track to get it perfect! Your eye is the best tool to get track perfect , but you still need a reliable base to start with. I think you'll find if you look at my track work you'll see the results. Cheers Gregg.
Greg well timed information for when I get out my staging yard up to the second level got to climb up the first helix befor I get there though, as usual clear and straight forward thanks. You discussion re track painting check out Joey's video m.ruclips.net/video/DrHmPf62A_g/видео.html I have tried it on a bridge on our club layout and it looks just right to my eye.
Awesome presentation and like the end logic of doing great track work before scenery, etc.
Thank you ! Glad you enjoyed it.
Cheers Gregg.🙂
I have watched a lot of videos on how to make transitions, and this is the best explained one yet!
Thank you Joe! It is a easy and very effective way to make trains look real when rounding curves!
Cheers Gregg.
G'day
Great video Gregg
As I am starting a layout I am glad I watched this informative
video on getting the curves right.
Thanks again
Chris
Thanks Chris! I'm glad you got something out of the video and good luck with the layout.
CHeers Gregg.
Gregg excellent video explaining transition curves
Thank you James! Glad you enjoyed it!
Gregg 🙂
Great info. Thanks for the very valuable tip
A very clear explanation. Thank you. I need to re-plan my curves as I cannot offset my track 'outwards' ! No room !
Thank you ! All you need is an extra 15mm ....do it now and you won't regret it!
Cheers Gregg.
"That's not a curve. THIS is a curve. " -- Crocodile Gregg
LOL...just need some teeth on my hat??
Cheers Gregg.
a very good help, Thanks Greg
Thanks Greg, great vid always enjoy your videos and very much look forward to the next.
Thanks Roy, glad you like them!! More on the way Sir!
Gregg :-)
I watched this video yesterday and put my new found knowledge to use today. I am pleased to say it went reasonably well, not with out any hitches, but it is done and the trains get around there, which is good. Thinking about making a trip to your country next year, done trans Canada on 'The Canadian', now I think I would like to do the Indian Pacific.
Good for you Ian! Glad you had a win and all is good, especially on your first go! I must say if you've done the Canadian, like I did in 2015, the Indian Pacific's going to be a bit bland..LOL But it is a good trip and you'll go on the longest section of straight rail in the world, over 400km in a dead straight line!
Let me know if you decide to come on down!
Cheers Gregg.
Thanks for posting this, Gregg! I'm going to start laying out my curves this week, and this will help a lot!
Thank you Sir! Just remember that your curve will go wider at the ends so allow for that on your base board!
Gregg.
Thanks Greg! This will help me and a few people I am going to link this to. Two layours under my belt and I never knew it.
Hi Mark! I tried to use them on my layout , but I didn't make room for the easement with the overall diameter, so I had to cheat a bit! Just remember that the transition takes up extra room at each end!
Thanks for watching.
Gregg.
Another excellent video from down under. Gregg got it down pat.
Thank you Sir! About time we saw a update from the Grande Pacific Art!
Cheers mate.
Gregg
Gregg ... great explanation of transition curves... like everybody else has mentioned, guess I need to go pull up some track.
Thanks Craig! LOL...I have a a few I'd like to redo myself!!
Gregg:-)
I really like your videos and am glad you are back. Missed you!
Thank you Paul! I'm glad you enjoy the videos and appreciate the support!
Cheers Gregg.
thank you Greg,great to see you back making new videos I always learn a lot watching them
Thanks Jeff! Appreciate you taking the time to watch my rantings!! More on the way soon.
Cheers Gregg.
You're an absolute bloody legend mate!!! been watching for years and can never wait for each and every new vid! keep it up :D
Well thank you Sir! Glad you enjoy the videos and I appreciate the support!
Cheers Gregg.
Gregg live and learn, fantastic how to explanation video on transitions. This will help me on my switching layout.
Thanks Peter! Once you get the hang of it, they are easy to do! Happy to help,out.
Cheers Gregg.
Great (and in depth) explanation Gregg. I have been trying to figure out how I would be able to ease into my turns while building my layout. Now I have it (I think), make the straights wider, then transition into the radius I want. I may need a larger train room now. LOL! Thanks for the information!!! Cheers, Dan
Thanks Danny! You have it mate, thats the golden rule to leave room for the straights! Having a centre line on the curves makes it heaps easier.
We all need a bigger train room!!
Cheers Gregg.
hi Gregg... i wish i would have known about transition curves when i built my layout... i guess i need to tear it down & start over... LOL... awesome tutorial .. thanks for sharing.. vinny
I think you have enough to keep you busy for a while yet Vinny!! Being N scale you have more room to have broader curves so maybe it's not as noticeable?
Too much other neat stuff to look at on the Peavine!!
Thanks for watching Sir!
Gregg.
Great vid and explanation....well worth the time watching, thanks much
Thanks Pat! I tried to make it no longer than 15mins.....no luck ..LOL
Cheers Gregg.
Thanks for taking the time to explain and show how to make an easement for model railroads. I just wish you had done tis video a year ago when I started my project. Used a book that explained it, but there's nothing like tell and show. LOL Great job on the video!! Cheers D. Muse WTCMRR
You're welcome David! I remember reading about these when I started out in
" Track Planning for realistic operation" and that was a long time ago..LOL
Glad you liked the videos!
Cheers Gregg.
Great video on curves, I attempted to use paper for a template, it was a pain using the magic marker it kept moving. Great advice ones again, cheers Terry. Can't wait to see the video on scenery. Lol
Thanks Terry! I thought about cardboard but I think thin ply or hardboard is the go and I share your pain with the paper..LOL
Video on scenery???????
Gregg:-)
Great explanation on transition curves, Thanks for sharing....Ed.
Thank you Ed! Glad you liked it.
Gregg:-)
Something confusing made simple great video
Regards
Thanks Lee! A little thing that makes a big difference!
Cheers Gregg.
My plan is to make an actual template and cut it out of fiberboard, as you show. One side will be as shown, a left turn, then when you flip it over it becomes a right turn. Great explanation on creating the transition.
Thats what I plan to do also Hardie! Don't forget to put a small section of straight before the curve starts, this will make setting it up easy. Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Cheers Gregg.
very informative video, I never thought of all that before now,, wow and makes sense too.
Thank you Sir! It's the devil in the detail that makes a difference!
Cheers Gregg.
Great video Gregg. I used a computer program to make mine; Anyrail calls them "curve easements". Mine are mostly 12'' long with a few at 18", only because I figured the length of a locomotive was about right. Wish I would have known about the NMRA recommendations it would have been easy to make them longer.
Never trust a computer Ben, always trust your Uncle Gregg!! Just remember to get down at track level when laying your track and look along the rails and you'll pick up a fraction of a mm in alignment...thats what we do at work even after the track machines go through! Look forward to seeing nice curves on the layout!!
Cheers Gregg.
Could you please send your winter this way. I really don't want snow this year. I wish I knew this before I laid my track, sure would have made things easier. I will have to use this information when I lay the rest of the track.
It has been cold down here Scott but no snow! They have had some big snow falls down south and it has been down to almost freezing out on track at night a week ago!
Thanks for watching sir!
Gregg:-)
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Hey Greg when do ya think you will be showing how to do the blocks on a layout for doing the signals on a layout. Great explanation on transitioning only thing is i don't think i will be able to do it no room. Thanx Joe
Hi Joe , I hope to be shooting it this week and upload in a week or two? All depends on how busy work is!
Gregg.
Your a wealth of information. When laying N scale is it similar rules or a whole new set as HO?
Thanks Chris! The same in N scale, just the dimensions will be less of course! Also on N scale you have more room to have broader curves!
Cheers Gregg.
Greg, if your doing close to 90 degree turn you really only have a small portion at a given radius correct? You would have transitions on both ends of radius correct?
Good info . Thanks
Thanks Jim!
Great video Gregg. Saved me working it out for myself. Where are you located. I am on Gold Coast.
Thank you Malcolm! They are easy once you get the hang of it. I'm on the south side of Brisbane.
Cheers,
Gregg.
Nice Gregg really really nice, as you are in the rail industry, to help my modeling method, how do you suggest going about making well whats the mathematical formula (or rule of thumb) for making grade adjusted curves. i.e a 2.2 percent grade and a tight curve they make the grade lessened slightly to maintain the same weight on the draw bar, its really complicated mathematically to do is there a rule of thumb you know about Uncle Gregg??ehehe. or anyone??
Cheers
Thanks very much Alan! What you describe are "Compensated " grades, and in the real world they make grades as small as practical and then add the degree of curvature and other stuff! I dropped my grades from 2% to about 1.8% and that about made up for the 30' curves. I did a draw bar or number of cars test while building the layout and dropping the grade to 1.8% was about right so you could work on that! If your curves are tighter then mine then take another bit off. The maths are very in depth and over the top for us..LOL
Cheers Gregg.
Hey Gregg, beauty of a video, as I am about to start my bench work today, where do you suggest to start super elevation? At the beginning of the transition, or just before?
Thank you Sir! Super elevation and transitions......very flash indeed! I would start during the transition, maybe halfway or a bit before but not on the straight. Be very gentle raising the outer rail and you don't need very much. Let us know when you have some done to show!!
Cheers Gregg.
Hi Gregg. Lynn here. Not to bring up a sore subject regarding your MTH troubles. But going back to then how did you overcome the polarity issues with the headlight and ditch lights. Thank you for your time.
Hi Lynn,
Ahhh, the old MTH! Its still sitting on the bench with a blown motor that was faulty from the start! I will be selling it as I've had enough of it. The ditch light board has the headlight on it too so I cut the light tube from the headlight and installed a LED glued to the light tube at the headlights. then you can switch the ditch light s on without the headlight coming on as well. This took hours but worked well but then the motor issue was the last straw as it's a huge job to remove all the stuff to get to the motor, which are hard to get anyway!
Shame because it is a nice model.
Cheers Gregg.
Hi Gregg. Thank you for the quick reply and fix. It is a shame that such a nice model to have so many internal problems. You take care. Lynn
I will and you're welcome.
i think you have the same camera as i do. well the same remote any way. sony cx900.
The remote may be similar Sparky, but mine is a broadcast model, HXR-NX3.
someone please tell me why YOU ALL, not ME, worry about the ever moving and inconsistent "center of track" for measurements instead of the rail itself. Everyone is guestimating all of their track work if they are going off center of track...
Hi Kent, you have to start somewhere and the centre line is a base for your roadbed...NOT your track! I work with the real thing and we use measurements from all sorts of bases like platforms and masts through to pegs in the ground! Track centres are used for track spacings on dual track and then the track machines align the track within these measurements. When laying cork roadbed , it is much easier to use the middle "clean cut" edge rather than the rough tapered edge , and then you have "wiggle" room to lay your track to get it perfect! Your eye is the best tool to get track perfect , but you still need a reliable base to start with. I think you'll find if you look at my track work you'll see the results.
Cheers Gregg.
Thank you for taking the time to make a good explanation.
Greg well timed information for when I get out my staging yard up to the second level got to climb up the first helix befor I get there though, as usual clear and straight forward thanks. You discussion re track painting check out Joey's video m.ruclips.net/video/DrHmPf62A_g/видео.html I have tried it on a bridge on our club layout and it looks just right to my eye.
Thanks Neil, timing is everything! I will watch Joey's clip for sure.
Cheers Gregg.