Good video but one problem that i quite common with DIYers and even too many journeyman mechanics. DON'T put any grease on the end of the pin!!!! It will create an issue where it limits the range of motion pf the pin in the bore. Those rubber boots are cheap so replace them evet year or two. Also the problem with pin that have rubber ring near the bottom is that they swell especially if someone had previously used NON- silicon grease.
Very good point. I may have put a bit too much on the end of the pin but I measured and I have about half a centimeter of open space a the tip of the pin so the amount I put will not interfere with normal travel . Everyone should be cautious not to over pack the tip of the pin before installing it back in :)
this is exaclty the method ive had to do in a few special circumstances. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE APPLIED HEAT, if done too hot too quick it can cause the expanding gasses from the burning grease and cause the slide pin to shoot out like a cork. had it happen to me on one occasion.
The rubber bushing on the 2nd slide pin you worked on looked pretty mangled and worn. I think I would have put a new one on. Also I've read about a fix for that bushing which consists of trimming a very small amount from the length of the bushing because the bushing swells and becomes too long for the space it is given.
Thanks for being observant. It was still ok, just really dirty. When I replace the pads, in the near future, will replace both. Never heard of that modification. Replace components if necessary. I would not recommend modifying the rubber bushing or carbon steel slide pin, in any way.
Just change a all new one. Whatever are you are working on must be at least 10 years old. You can clean the pin but inside is also rusted. You can completely clean everything. It will be rusted in two years. New one will last you another 10 years.
Chambers will filled with dried grease. Once I cleaned them out they operated again. Yes this is a procedure you would do every year or you can replace the entire caliper.
Every video ive seen about how much Grease to use on Caliper Pins they say dont over Grease Pins ! Use less ! Over greasing can cause suctioning with pins & they'll become sticky ! Cheers from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍺🕺
Yes it is a fine balance to not use too much but also not use to little that the brake heat bakes the grease. Also inspecting them on a regular basis is important.
There is a groove just inside the bore on the bracket. The rubber bushing (the bellows-like part) has a ridge which must go into that groove to complete the seal. To install the pin and bushing correctly the bushing must be installed in the bracket first, then the pin will lock it in place when it is inserted through the bushing. If not done correctly the repair will probably seize when water enters and causes corrosion. When you do it this way, be sure there is sufficient lubricant in the bore, because the bushing will wipe most of the lubricant off the shaft of the pin as it is installed. Be sure to use brake grease because it is compounded to work in the temperate range brakes will endure, from below freezing to many hundreds of degrees.
Very good description. I think that is what happened in the first place in addition to not having enough lubrication from the factory. I used silicone brake grease and ensured the sleeves were installed correctly. I also replaced one as it was torn.
Good video but one problem that i quite common with DIYers and even too many journeyman mechanics. DON'T put any grease on the end of the pin!!!! It will create an issue where it limits the range of motion pf the pin in the bore. Those rubber boots are cheap so replace them evet year or two. Also the problem with pin that have rubber ring near the bottom is that they swell especially if someone had previously used NON- silicon grease.
Very good point. I may have put a bit too much on the end of the pin but I measured and I have about half a centimeter of open space a the tip of the pin so the amount I put will not interfere with normal travel . Everyone should be cautious not to over pack the tip of the pin before installing it back in :)
i clened it with carb cleaner verry easy, i did not remove the calliper
leave it on so you dont have to have a vice.
i heated it up ,i hit it with a hammer verry hard a few times and it blew like a champagne
this is exaclty the method ive had to do in a few special circumstances. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE APPLIED HEAT, if done too hot too quick it can cause the expanding gasses from the burning grease and cause the slide pin to shoot out like a cork. had it happen to me on one occasion.
VERY good point. Always point it away from people or anything dangerous.
The rubber bushing on the 2nd slide pin you worked on looked pretty mangled and worn. I think I would have put a new one on. Also I've read about a fix for that bushing which consists of trimming a very small amount from the length of the bushing because the bushing swells and becomes too long for the space it is given.
Thanks for being observant. It was still ok, just really dirty. When I replace the pads, in the near future, will replace both. Never heard of that modification. Replace components if necessary. I would not recommend modifying the rubber bushing or carbon steel slide pin, in any way.
Just change a all new one. Whatever are you are working on must be at least 10 years old. You can clean the pin but inside is also rusted. You can completely clean everything. It will be rusted in two years. New one will last you another 10 years.
Chambers will filled with dried grease. Once I cleaned them out they operated again. Yes this is a procedure you would do every year or you can replace the entire caliper.
Every video ive seen about how much Grease to use on Caliper Pins they say dont over Grease Pins ! Use less ! Over greasing can cause suctioning with pins & they'll become sticky ! Cheers from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍺🕺
Yes it is a fine balance to not use too much but also not use to little that the brake heat bakes the grease. Also inspecting them on a regular basis is important.
There is a groove just inside the bore on the bracket. The rubber bushing (the bellows-like part) has a ridge which must go into that groove to complete the seal. To install the pin and bushing correctly the bushing must be installed in the bracket first, then the pin will lock it in place when it is inserted through the bushing. If not done correctly the repair will probably seize when water enters and causes corrosion. When you do it this way, be sure there is sufficient lubricant in the bore, because the bushing will wipe most of the lubricant off the shaft of the pin as it is installed. Be sure to use brake grease because it is compounded to work in the temperate range brakes will endure, from below freezing to many hundreds of degrees.
Very good description. I think that is what happened in the first place in addition to not having enough lubrication from the factory. I used silicone brake grease and ensured the sleeves were installed correctly. I also replaced one as it was torn.
I believe that you should not grease the bottom of the sliding pin.
I respectfully disagree. Silicone brake grease is necessary to maintain functionality.
Thanks
No problem
Can it be replaced with joint grease?
If that is what you have then use it.
Can i use high temp grease..?
Yes. You do not want the grease to liquify and leak out.