Hey girls/boys! I just took the FIRST SAIL with the boat, and recorded it LIVE via the official Sailing Zingaro WhatsApp group: 'Zingaro's Saloon'. If you'd like access to this and other 'behind-the-scenes' videos, please go here: www.patreon.com/svzingaro Thanks for watching! Much love. -J
Hi Mate, I would assume by your happy demeana your engine has been bled and running smoothly. The Aussie Chief Engineer. Any more problems send them my way. Happy Days
Make sure the return line goes back to the tank. If it Tees into the supply side it can loop the air indefinitely. Bleed the supply at the injectors, not the returns. And use extreme caution, the high pressure fuel can penetrate your skin and that leads to very serious infection problems. Take care and know what is under pressure and what is not.
The botom line on the injectors is the presure line the top one is the return . It is impossible to bleed a fuel system through the return . If you still keep having air in the system , redo every connection and use the proper clamps . No jubilee clips on youre fuel system . If the problem stays , replace all the brass washers on every conection . If you are unable to obtain new washers , remove burs en glow out the old washers . Even though you can not find a fuel leak , that doesn't mean you have no air leak . Don't jump all over the system . Start at the thank and work your way to the injectors . Keep up the good work . You WILL get it done .
Sludge in the fuel line from the tank causing a vacuum / restriction so the engine will start but the after a few minutes the restriction caused by the sludge causes vacuum and starves the engine of fuel.
Were you aware that diesel will support an Algy growth. My diesel bus had a bad case of it too. There is an anti Algy additive that you can put in your tank that will stop that Algy from growing.
Ex trawler engineer here , as a couple of others have said , a day tank at a level above the engine is a great idea , also if funds allow a twin Racor setup with a changeover valve would be an asset . On vessels I worked on we had twin banks of 3 Racors with 2020 filter elements 3 times longer than yours and on each bank manifold was a vacuum gauge so you could see at a glance when fuel flow was becoming restricted and simply open the second bank , close the first and change the filters at your leisure without stopping the engine . Meanwhile , if you haven't already done so , strip that cam operated lift pump and inspect the diaphragm and carry a spare pump or at least diaphragm .
I'm still amazed that the Diesel engine started at all. ? What does cracking the return lines @ injector tops have to do with bleeding of an air lock in the pressurized injector fuel line?
We had this problem with our Chevy Blazer in Kuwait. The first time it happen we went through the whole system. Then someone remembered there was something that grew in the diesel fuel. I've forgotten the name--that was 30 years ago. After that we carried a case fuel filters with us and every time the engine died we changed filters. Both the deuce and a half and the five ton didn't have a problem.
Stop trying to bleed the top of the injectors that’s the return side and this is why you are sucking in air into the fuel system. (Chief Marine Engineer, 41 years experience.)
James I changed and cleaned a primary fuel filter/water separator last year. Put it all back together and kept experiencing air intrusion. Drank two beers and of course everything becomes clear with beer. So I changed to small rubber o rings on all the screw points such as the top of the fuel fuel filter and life became good. Over time all those little bits develop cracks you can't see. Anyway just a thought. Sometimes it's just that simple. Capt Kaz
James been there w/ tank. If you ever have to clean a tank again use Dawn Dishwash soap and water and all sorts of scrub brushes and countless paper towel. Soap, Scrub dry wipe in one direction 4”~8” discard towel. Repeat square by square. Start over same process and rinse with water bottle and dry wipe. When it all appears clean. Don’t stop. Now scrub it all up with water and soap flood it up and pump out. And repeat the flood and pump until squeaky clean. Now change all the lines. And clean out everything upstream as you have been doing. Nice job, rad boat, and keep living the dream. You got this!
Hey I've got a tip for useing that jb weld stuff mate , mix it on a plastic bag then rap it up in a little tight ball poke a small hole in it then squeeze it into what ever, no mess .like a piping bag great stuff mate. Now get that motor going lol
Hohoho, what fun! I too am a mechanic, retired now. Gotta be sucking air in somewhere. Oh, the happy hours I have spent, the theories I have come up with and the joy when the, often stupid, problem is solved. You don't need my advice and I haven't really got any, you're a mechanic, get on with it! Anyway - you've fixed it now, either that or you went sailing engineless. I'm glad I rarely stink of diesel nowadays.
Hey James, see if you can install a gravity day tank once the system has been totally cleaned. You see all leaks and got big safety backup. You pump from the main tank into the day tank once a day, So you always have that amount clean for immediate use. I used pressure washer for washing my tanks. it reaches far corners.
There's a high chance your injectors are jammed up. You can clean them with an Ultra Sonic cleaner bath that you can get on Amazon for fairly cheap. Super usefull onboard for cleaning carburators, injectors, winches gears, blocks,, etc. GOOD LUCK 👍
If the engine runs for 4-5 minutes and then stops it is probably only using the diesel fuel that is in the secondary filter bowl. The lift pump can't replace the fuel because there is an air leak some where , probably in the primary filter, connections etc. Try an run an auxiliary tank with fresh diesel. Disconnect the lift pump hose from the primary filter and put the hose into the auxiliary tank. Bleed the system, try and start the engine. If the engine runs and stays running your problem is at the primary filter. I had the same Racor filter that looked almost as bad as yours...junked it. I switched to a Racor spin on body and filter cartridge. Much better, less hassle. Good luck
If there is any rubber fuel hose between the tank and the engine lift pump, replace it fuel hose on the suction side of lift pump will not show a pin hole leak but will open up to let air into hte line and when shut down will reseal it's self.
surprised how small that tank is. Would think it would be much bigger (even on a sail boat) because you cross entire oceans and could need it in an emergency. Neat.
James, there are wrenches that are specifically made for fuel and brake lines. They look like box ends with a slot cut out to slip over the fuel line. Have used on old cars , does make a difference. Jay
Don't leave dock without a sculling oar! Even if you have to make one yourself. With that boat, you probably need a 14 footer. You can rig an or lock on the aft of the boat, put a cleat near the floor of your cockpit (to hold the oar down while rowing) that's called an oriental rig. Also, when you lash it, make sure you put some holes through it so you can very safely lash it on deck . . . that oar can save your life. My dad sailed without an engine on a 40 footer for years, he could do about 1-1.5 knots with the sculling oar. Note: he also put in notches near the bow, aligned with the forward water line so that he could use the sculling oar as a bow thruster. Faboo for med mooring or side-along mooring. Your oar doesn't have to be complicated, I found a reference www.diy-wood-boat.com/Sculling.html
The algae is due to water in the fuel. You can prevent it from reoccurring by using biocide periodically as a maintenance item and if your tank has a low spot or a sump, pump the water out occasionally. Pump it into a container, I use a 5 gal bucket and then pour the fuel back in the tank minus the water that will be in the bottom of the bucket.
I’ve too have been a follower & 37c sailboat owner . I’ve been a professional auto mechanic for 40 years . This background has always made wonder if a better replacement for copper sealing rings could be , (BONDED OIL SEAL DOWTY WASHERS ) . I’ve not used these on my Yanmar system yet . Are Copper seal rings old school ? DOWTY washer look to seal more positive (air sucking ) & you don’t need to overly crank them down thinking you’ve got it this time !! Professional Diesel mechanics , what do you think ??
Unless you got rid of all the sludge in the tanks there could be bits of crap being pumped into the fuel system and plugging it up at a restriction or filter. It might run just fine until you're in a squall or crossing a bar when something gets sloshed loose in the tank. There have been times when I've gone through SEVERAL fuel filters in a day until getting reasonably clean fuel after fuel contamination. I'd pull the Racor filter and look at it again for junk in the fuel. Personally, I'd also put a bigger Racor on the engine if room for it, and save the old one for a spare. I would also replace the mechanical pump on the engine and rebuild the old one for a spare. That junk it was trying to pump didn't do it any favors. Most air leaks I've had were from filters being improperly sealed while changing them. Your friend mentioned someone else doing some DIY. Another possibility causing air leaks would be a damaged over tightened fitting. Also, buy a set of good flare nut wrenches. Good luck...
You may rig simple bulb pump just after fuel tank, open the bleeding screw on rakor and filter and pump the fuel. therefor fuel first will fill-up rakor and it start bleeding (close it after) and after rakor main filter start bleeding as well. Close it and voila: things are done. Evryting is one-person job.This is what i have, and works like a charm. However the idea belongs to duchman from Dutchman / MVB Inc.
Here's a little trick from an old truck driver you're running things out of fuel don't waste time priming them get you a can desal starter fluid and just give it a few shots in the air cleaner and start cranking it just keep giving it a few shots and a few more shots and it'll start to spit sputter and eventually it'll suck up enough you and take off just fill your fuel filter first
Top lines on the injector are return just bleed the lower lines. If its air getting into the system check for cracked or damaged pickup line in the tank or better yet just replace it any leaks or loose fitting on the suction side and check any fitting on suction side could be a scared flare fitting. Check any seal surface on everything suction related. Good luck, patience.
Hi. Had the same issue with my perkins. Bleed the air out, ran fine, then would shut down. This drove me crazy! Turns out my lift pump was bad. I took the top off the lift pump and the "in" check valve. broken fee and was just laying on top of the rubber diaphragm. If you are still working on the issue you can check this pretty easily. Good luck!
James- copper crush washers can be reused but you need to heat them up red hot with propane torch but I deal is start off with all new ones. Change the crush washers for new and I bet your problems go away- Hang in there Brother!
As someone who has dealt with a number of tractor engines with nasty fuel tanks I can tell you this: you need to take out your fuel tank, clean it thoroughly, clean it again, then again, then put some stuff in to melt any residue and clean again. otherwise the layered sludge will keep on blocking the fuel lines and this will happen again and again.
@@joriskylie6857 I sent him a case of Fuel Right. It will dissolve and displace all that stuff adhering to the surfaces. Yes, it will end up in the filters however, after a few months of soaking, his tanks will be clean and Fuel Right will prevent biofilm from developing in his tanks and keep them clean even if he does not use the boat for an extended period of time. His situation is pretty bad. We’ve cleaned a ton of marine fuel tanks and his tanks will be fine in the long run. No need to cut out the tanks.
That sucks. Hopefully, enough biocide treated diesel will get your system back up and running. 11:22 shows a zip tie around a hard fuel line. Over time, that hard plastic and vibration will wear a hole in the metal fuel line. At your next haul out or engine maintenance interval, please consider replacing those zip ties with Adel clamps. Adel clamps are the standard in aviation and are a well proven method of stand-off attachment that prevents wear and abrasion.
Hey James the diesel problem yoyr having iv had. You need to go through every single bolt down your low pressure and high pressure lines and tighten everything as tight as you can. A pin hole sized hole can cause air bubbles that come over time. So all the bleed bolt and fuel filters attachments everything. And this should stop your engine from having air problems.
If theirs air bubbles in your fuel filter low pressure side then the bubbles are coming from the tank sludge. If there are no bubbles coming from your tank then you have a hole somewere in the high pressure line sucking in air at a high pressure.
I have a Lombardini diesel engine in my yacht self bleeding common rail engine. For those contemplating a new engine you should consider one of these they are super reliable, black smoke when under load is absolutely minimal and are very light for a given hp.
Ever time I put fuel in the tank I make sure a good helping of Biobor goes in to the tank first, it takes care of any “bugs” living in the diesel. For me it’s an absolute must.
James your fuel looks like same I pulled out of my tank 100 gallons of sludge literally mushrooms in fuel tank.. I haven't used fuel right yet waiting till spring once I get in water so motion will help to mix FuelRite thru out tanks...Better to tackle this now before either of us hits open water sure as shit one of those diesel mushrooms will clog fuel system. The other option is installing ports in tank. NOT ALL FUEL PORTS are created equal. Fingers crossed FuelRite will dissolve it all. I used a second fuel pump attached to hose with a foot of harder plastic tubbing on end so I could scrape bottom and sides while I sucked and pushed fuel in and out of tank for a couple hours. It really got a lot of sludge and diesel mushrooms out. If you hit a wall let me know I'll explain what I did. I'm sure you got a plan. It is just time and patience you will crush the fuel project just as you have all the rest of your projects.
#sailingzingaro James you can re-seat those brass washers by heating red hot than drop in water will make them like new able to re-seat without worrying about order.
Hey James, Can you get a pressure washer in there (tank) and use some detergent like simple green ? Be careful with the pressure washer's tip... it can dig into the walls if pressed too close, use a fan nozzle, and hose clamp a piece of rubber tubing along one of the sides of fan pattern so it doesn't block spray... the hose will act as a feeler to keep it from digging into tank's walls. You may want to run the biocide cleaner 50/50 with diesel thru balance of system and let sit and soak a few days to try and stamp out all the other "bug colonies".
years back in a period of 'Poor Days' my glasses broke in two at the nose bridge.... kept them together for a year with JB Weld. works great on plastic
So true. Just need good battery bank with solar, wind and regen 2x (props and separate regen as well) to "refill" batteries and have decent range, not just in and out marinas & anchorages.
Ho yes having drunk more than my fair share of diesel and sorted this type of problem tens of times....... this is the way to go ruclips.net/video/jpAnGJpcnQU/видео.html
As the owner of a sailboat with an electric motor, 100% yes!!!! I hope the range thing is eventually solved with better battery technology, but even if it isn't, not having to spend hours covered in petrochemicals and breathing diesel exhaust is worth the trade-off. Eventually I hope to get out the video on my electric motor, but I am an amateur at videos, and it's never going to be my day job.
have a look in the lift pump there are small valves (cleanable) in them and possibly another filter gauze, other too watch for on perkins 4cyl's is the electric stop fuel shut off on the injector pump, otherwise put all new fuel line in then you can be sure you are right
Bleed at injection pump nice clean stream. Loosen injector pipe's full throttle engine stopper too run crank over engine till loose injector pipe's spurt fuel careful as high pressure fuel thighten injector pipe's should start . Small pipe's on top of injector are leak off pipe's which take a small amount of fuel back to tank don't need to be bleed.injectors spray fine mist into engine cylinder open shut quickly and a small leaks past this amount increases with age not a problem.
Try bleeding all the way along the entire fuel system. Start at the racor , then follow the flow along, to the lift pump discharge, then the white filter, in and out, ,,hp pump intake, then outlet, Then injector inLet. Works for me! Lastly air ingress may be at that O ring at the top of the racor, I would take that big lid off, and check the fuel level Good luck, try not to get frustrated...
Hi James I have the same Perkins in my boat and I've had to deal with dodgy fuel and buckets of sludge in the fuel tanks, A couple of suggestions. the lift pump is almost certainly clogged in the valves however seeing that you are running an electric fuel pump you could simply bypass the mechanical lift pump. You definitely need to install a sedimenter (glass bowl with gauze strainer) before the electric pump to remove large contaminants it only takes a small amount of gunk to block the electric pump strainer. There is a fine strainer/filter in the injector pump under where the inlet pipe attaches. When you bleed the fuel to the injectors you just need to crack the high-pressure inlet lines, not the return lines, also one end of the return lines runs to the fuel filter and the other end needs to run back to the fuel tank if it only runs to the filter it could introduce air into the system. There is a business called parts 4 engines in the UK that sell everything online for the Perkins 4.236 at a good price. good luck Nick
Look for dirt in the body of filters and fittings. It can be anywhere. I had what looked like roots lodged in an elbow that was screwed into a filter housing. Considering that you cleaned a portion of the tank quite clean, my suggestion is a pump that can develop at least 100 psi and wand to wash the tank similarly to how a dishwasher recirculates the same soapy water. Don't know if you could use dishwasher powder because it has to be hot to work well. The pump could be used to flush out all the lines as well as the tank.
PS I keep reminding myself that it's the journey not the end where all the good shit in life happens even overwhelming boat projects. James you know that all is perfect just as it is the struggle is what makes people love you and what you do. Hang in there...you know this means I might get my boat in water before you ... hahahaha...love ya Bruh!!! Keep Crushing it !!!
I ran fuel to a header tank with overflow back to main fuel tanks. header tank always full, and any air exits through header tank relief valve, This header tank holds about twenty litres of fuel--enough for about a day's run on my diesel--probably half a day on yours if no extra fuel is pumped in--but I let my electric header supply pump run all the time to polish the fuel continuously. Fuekl was a gravity feed from the high mounted header tank to engine's own fuel pump. Diesel fuel was fed to header tank through auxiliary fuel electric pump with manual standby emergency pump, if required to fill the header tank from main tank if electric pump fails. Electric pump was bought from truck spares company. I forget what make it was. It never failed anyway.
That tank internal may need an epoxy lining. All that surface area will hold microbial colonies. The air isn't coming from a leaking connection or problem lift pump? When you get state side, hot soapy pressure washer until its all gone ( it will be awhile by the look of it) and then a high solids epoxy rated for fuels. Many to choose from. The key is the prep. Afterwards, be religious about biocides and filter changes and the problem will never be an issue.
Sometimes a blast of diesel starting fluid will run the engine long enough to blow the bubbles through. Others have mentioned it, new copper washers and a return line that drains into the tank rather than back into the fuel line is a must, otherwise you will keep getting air.
That was a great video I know you’re frustrated , but I like the technical side too Hello Laura, hope you’re ok too! I wish I could work on my boat in shorts ; it’s snow here, freezing Make sure you all laugh and take time out
Yeah that fuel filter was gross... Trying to fill up a racor with a 5 gallon fuel can , just doesn’t work for me either. I usually re-purpose a 1 litre lube oil container, fill with diesel, and keep it handy. Pour the fuel from the can to a small container, then fill the racor. And you could fill that white filter with diesel. It certainly makes replacing the filter element and refilling the racor easier at sea...
I don’t know much about diesels however you mentioned that once the engine started it would run for about the same amount of time. I’m thinking it has to do with the cooling system. Didn’t hear you say it was a combination saltwater fresh water. Fresh water being a coolant. There is a number of areas that can become clogged also the dual valve cap. Hope this helps. Don’t give up
I've had this issue(Trawler Perkins 6.354)....I banged my head against the wall until I opened to fuel pickup tube within the tank. There was a ribbon, an actual ribbon of sludge from using a fuel additive that had blocked the tube causing (somehow) air in the lines constantly. I pulled it all out and bamn, motor ran perfectly. Perhaps that may help? Best of luck...from Dania beach FL.
A tip, take a electrical screwdriver, put a decent sized screw through the sponche or the metallic brush and put that on the screwddriver/drill, woala u have a powertool for the job :D
You want to crack the lines while you're cranking and then close them back up when you stop cranking, you were introducing Air back into the system every time you left them open and stop cranking..
The copper gasket washers loose their function if you refit them. Because the Copper gets hard after first use due to mechanical force. To resoften them you can heat them with a torch until they glow red a bit.
Do you have a fuel return line going back to the tank? With as bad as the fuel system was gunked up there could still be material in anyone of the lines. Ya got to clean or replace every line and all rubber lines should be replaced. With running it like that your very pricey injectors will get clogged up but may be able to clean them as well.
New crew is new to this boat life and seems willing to do a good job ! Notice that she increased the throttle when the engine started to die ! Good heads up move on her part ! She'll be handy for sure !
I would get some good de greaser leave it a while then jet wash it then pump it out, also James been a Mecanic my self have you changed the seals top and bottom on the fuel filter housing ? If it won’t start after that try some easy start if you can get your hands on some ,and it sounds like it’s down on compression check the tappet clearance and does it have glow plugs ? All the best Paul
Air can come from poor connections, improperly seated filter housings (especially if the problem occurs after a filter change), and pinholes in fuel lines caused by corrosion and vibration against bulkheads or the engine block. If the boat has more than one fuel tank and a selector valve, the valve may be admitting air. Since the only part of the fuel system under suction pressure is that from the tank to the lift pump, this is the most likely problem area.
It seems like it’s running out of fuel (fuel starvation)...there may be a problem with the hp pump...try running it directly from a jug to the high pressure pump and see how that goes.
Is it my imagination or do you have tons of room, and light, around that engine? I'm blown away over the fact that you don't need to get all balled up or have to crawl, squeeze or perform other feats of body manipulations to get at it. Hope you're well.
I admire your cool brother. I would have dropped F-bombs and thrown tools on the 6th sputter out.JB weld, after Prometheus bringing us fire this is the second-best gift the gods gave us.
i have to go through all those air bleeding steps with my 40yo universal diesel every time its sat for over a month or so , im so glad you didnt require that beautiful jersey girl to help you with this horrific messy project beautiful women shouldnt be exposed to such filth!
Hey girls/boys! I just took the FIRST SAIL with the boat, and recorded it LIVE via the official Sailing Zingaro WhatsApp group: 'Zingaro's Saloon'. If you'd like access to this and other 'behind-the-scenes' videos, please go here: www.patreon.com/svzingaro
Thanks for watching! Much love. -J
I'm so glad to be a Patron, cuz I know what the problem was!
@@danaparedes5613 lol, he'll have people giving him advice for the next 2 years
@@danaparedes5613 haha Dana, yes we do!😉
I'm lazier than you. I would have taken a pressure washer to the tank.
Hi Mate, I would assume by your happy demeana your engine has been bled and running smoothly.
The Aussie Chief Engineer. Any more problems send them my way. Happy Days
Make sure the return line goes back to the tank. If it Tees into the supply side it can loop the air indefinitely. Bleed the supply at the injectors, not the returns. And use extreme caution, the high pressure fuel can penetrate your skin and that leads to very serious infection problems. Take care and know what is under pressure and what is not.
The botom line on the injectors is the presure line the top one is the return . It is impossible to bleed a fuel system through the return . If you still keep having air in the system , redo every connection and use the proper clamps . No jubilee clips on youre fuel system . If the problem stays , replace all the brass washers on every conection . If you are unable to obtain new washers , remove burs en glow out the old washers . Even though you can not find a fuel leak , that doesn't mean you have no air leak . Don't jump all over the system . Start at the thank and work your way to the injectors . Keep up the good work . You WILL get it done .
Sludge in the fuel line from the tank causing a vacuum / restriction so the engine will start but the after a few minutes the restriction caused by the sludge causes vacuum and starves the engine of fuel.
Were you aware that diesel will support an Algy growth. My diesel bus had a bad case of it too. There is an anti Algy additive that you can put in your tank that will stop that Algy from growing.
thank you for including proper disposal in your video bro! We need a lot more of this!
Ex trawler engineer here , as a couple of others have said , a day tank at a level above the engine is a great idea , also if funds allow a twin Racor setup with a changeover valve would be an asset . On vessels I worked on we had twin banks of 3 Racors with 2020 filter elements 3 times longer than yours and on each bank manifold was a vacuum gauge so you could see at a glance when fuel flow was becoming restricted and simply open the second bank , close the first and change the filters at your leisure without stopping the engine .
Meanwhile , if you haven't already done so , strip that cam operated lift pump and inspect the diaphragm and carry a spare pump or at least diaphragm .
I'm still amazed that the Diesel engine started at all. ? What does cracking the return lines @ injector tops have to do with bleeding of an air lock in the pressurized injector fuel line?
@@stevenr8606 he does not realize thats what he is doing. getting desperate
We had this problem with our Chevy Blazer in Kuwait. The first time it happen we went through the whole system. Then someone remembered there was something that grew in the diesel fuel. I've forgotten the name--that was 30 years ago. After that we carried a case fuel filters with us and every time the engine died we changed filters. Both the deuce and a half and the five ton didn't have a problem.
Stop trying to bleed the top of the injectors that’s the return side and this is why you are sucking in air into the fuel system.
(Chief Marine Engineer, 41 years experience.)
Nice. Thanks for the advice, I'll stop doing that.
James I changed and cleaned a primary fuel filter/water separator last year. Put it all back together and kept experiencing air intrusion. Drank two beers and of course everything becomes clear with beer. So I changed to small rubber o rings on all the screw points such as the top of the fuel fuel filter and life became good. Over time all those little bits develop cracks you can't see. Anyway just a thought. Sometimes it's just that simple. Capt Kaz
MEANING: the air intrusion is likely not on any pressure side fittings. I'll bet a six pack it's the racor.
Great Video! ♥️👍
James been there w/ tank. If you ever have to clean a tank again use Dawn Dishwash soap and water and all sorts of scrub brushes and countless paper towel. Soap, Scrub dry wipe in one direction 4”~8” discard towel. Repeat square by square. Start over same process and rinse with water bottle and dry wipe. When it all appears clean. Don’t stop. Now scrub it all up with water and soap flood it up and pump out. And repeat the flood and pump until squeaky clean. Now change all the lines. And clean out everything upstream as you have been doing. Nice job, rad boat, and keep living the dream. You got this!
Being that I am an ex diesel boat sub man I would replace all the copper washers on the banjos and then retrace checking all fuel line connections
A-gang? You know I'm an ex-bubblhead too? Thanks for the advice bro.
@@thelastpirate ex A ganger too! 618 & 637
Hey I've got a tip for useing that jb weld stuff mate , mix it on a plastic bag then rap it up in a little tight ball poke a small hole in it then squeeze it into what ever, no mess .like a piping bag great stuff mate. Now get that motor going lol
Hohoho, what fun! I too am a mechanic, retired now. Gotta be sucking air in somewhere. Oh, the happy hours I have spent, the theories I have come up with and the joy when the, often stupid, problem is solved. You don't need my advice and I haven't really got any, you're a mechanic, get on with it! Anyway - you've fixed it now, either that or you went sailing engineless. I'm glad I rarely stink of diesel nowadays.
One small tip, if air is getting in it is from the vacuum side of the pump.
Hey James, see if you can install a gravity day tank once the system has been totally cleaned. You see all leaks and got big safety backup. You pump from the main tank into the day tank once a day, So you always have that amount clean for immediate use. I used pressure washer for washing my tanks. it reaches far corners.
I would go through and clean entire fuel system after seeing that filter
There's a high chance your injectors are jammed up. You can clean them with an Ultra Sonic cleaner bath that you can get on Amazon for fairly cheap. Super usefull onboard for cleaning carburators, injectors, winches gears, blocks,, etc. GOOD LUCK 👍
If the engine runs for 4-5 minutes and then stops it is probably only using the diesel fuel that is in the secondary filter bowl. The lift pump can't replace the fuel because there is an air leak some where , probably in the primary filter, connections etc.
Try an run an auxiliary tank with fresh diesel. Disconnect the lift pump hose from the primary filter and put the hose into the auxiliary tank. Bleed the system, try and start the engine.
If the engine runs and stays running your problem is at the primary filter. I had the same Racor filter that looked almost as bad as yours...junked it.
I switched to a Racor spin on body and filter cartridge. Much better, less hassle.
Good luck
If there is any rubber fuel hose between the tank and the engine lift pump, replace it fuel hose on the suction side of lift pump will not show a pin hole leak but will open up to let air into hte line and when shut down will reseal it's self.
surprised how small that tank is. Would think it would be much bigger (even on a sail boat) because you cross entire oceans and could need it in an emergency. Neat.
James, there are wrenches that are specifically made for fuel and brake lines. They look like box ends with a slot cut out to slip over the fuel line. Have used on old cars , does make a difference. Jay
Yes they are known as crows foot wrenches :)
Don't leave dock without a sculling oar! Even if you have to make one yourself. With that boat, you probably need a 14 footer.
You can rig an or lock on the aft of the boat, put a cleat near the floor of your cockpit (to hold the oar down while rowing) that's called an oriental rig.
Also, when you lash it, make sure you put some holes through it so you can very safely lash it on deck . . . that oar can save your life.
My dad sailed without an engine on a 40 footer for years, he could do about 1-1.5 knots with the sculling oar.
Note: he also put in notches near the bow, aligned with the forward water line so that he could use the sculling oar as a bow thruster. Faboo for med mooring or side-along mooring.
Your oar doesn't have to be complicated, I found a reference
www.diy-wood-boat.com/Sculling.html
And this is even better
ruclips.net/video/6LDltfO3fI8/видео.html
The algae is due to water in the fuel. You can prevent it from reoccurring by using biocide periodically as a maintenance item and if your tank has a low spot or a sump, pump the water out occasionally. Pump it into a container, I use a 5 gal bucket and then pour the fuel back in the tank minus the water that will be in the bottom of the bucket.
I’ve too have been a follower & 37c sailboat owner . I’ve been a professional auto mechanic for 40 years . This background has always made wonder if a better replacement for copper sealing rings could be , (BONDED OIL SEAL DOWTY WASHERS ) . I’ve not used these on my Yanmar system yet . Are Copper seal rings old school ? DOWTY washer look to seal more positive (air sucking ) & you don’t need to overly crank them down thinking you’ve got it this time !! Professional Diesel mechanics , what do you think ??
Unless you got rid of all the sludge in the tanks there could be bits of crap being pumped into the fuel system and plugging it up at a restriction or filter. It might run just fine until you're in a squall or crossing a bar when something gets sloshed loose in the tank. There have been times when I've gone through SEVERAL fuel filters in a day until getting reasonably clean fuel after fuel contamination. I'd pull the Racor filter and look at it again for junk in the fuel. Personally, I'd also put a bigger Racor on the engine if room for it, and save the old one for a spare. I would also replace the mechanical pump on the engine and rebuild the old one for a spare. That junk it was trying to pump didn't do it any favors. Most air leaks I've had were from filters being improperly sealed while changing them. Your friend mentioned someone else doing some DIY. Another possibility causing air leaks would be a damaged over tightened fitting.
Also, buy a set of good flare nut wrenches. Good luck...
You may rig simple bulb pump just after fuel tank, open the bleeding screw on rakor and filter and pump the fuel. therefor fuel first will fill-up rakor and it start bleeding (close it after) and after rakor main filter start bleeding as well. Close it and voila: things are done. Evryting is one-person job.This is what i have, and works like a charm. However the idea belongs to duchman from Dutchman / MVB Inc.
Hang in there. You’ll figure it out. That engine is in mint shape
Here's a little trick from an old truck driver you're running things out of fuel don't waste time priming them get you a can desal starter fluid and just give it a few shots in the air cleaner and start cranking it just keep giving it a few shots and a few more shots and it'll start to spit sputter and eventually it'll suck up enough you and take off just fill your fuel filter first
Ohh. Librarian look. Very cool!
Top lines on the injector are return just bleed the lower lines. If its air getting into the system check for cracked or damaged pickup line in the tank or better yet just replace it any leaks or loose fitting on the suction side and check any fitting on suction side could be a scared flare fitting. Check any seal surface on everything suction related. Good luck, patience.
Hi. Had the same issue with my perkins. Bleed the air out, ran fine, then would shut down. This drove me crazy! Turns out my lift pump was bad. I took the top off the lift pump and the "in" check valve. broken fee and was just laying on top of the rubber diaphragm. If you are still working on the issue you can check this pretty easily. Good luck!
James- copper crush washers can be reused but you need to heat them up red hot with propane torch but I deal is start off with all new ones. Change the crush washers for new and I bet your problems go away- Hang in there Brother!
As someone who has dealt with a number of tractor engines with nasty fuel tanks I can tell you this: you need to take out your fuel tank, clean it thoroughly, clean it again, then again, then put some stuff in to melt any residue and clean again. otherwise the layered sludge will keep on blocking the fuel lines and this will happen again and again.
He can't...the tank is part of boat hull!
@@boatrvme8478 start cutting. That sh.t will never go away unless it is removed completely.
@@joriskylie6857 I sent him a case of Fuel Right. It will dissolve and displace all that stuff adhering to the surfaces. Yes, it will end up in the filters however, after a few months of soaking, his tanks will be clean and Fuel Right will prevent biofilm from developing in his tanks and keep them clean even if he does not use the boat for an extended period of time. His situation is pretty bad. We’ve cleaned a ton of marine fuel tanks and his tanks will be fine in the long run. No need to cut out the tanks.
To be honest I think your SOULMATE is Sailing Miss Lone Star......
Ouch.
Not a bad choice other than Miss Lone Star comes with her own Zoo even she wouldn't get out of my boat
That sucks. Hopefully, enough biocide treated diesel will get your system back up and running.
11:22 shows a zip tie around a hard fuel line. Over time, that hard plastic and vibration will wear a hole in the metal fuel line.
At your next haul out or engine maintenance interval, please consider replacing those zip ties with Adel clamps.
Adel clamps are the standard in aviation and are a well proven method of stand-off attachment that prevents wear and abrasion.
James that is Awesome! You are almost there! Keep up the awesome work!
Hey James the diesel problem yoyr having iv had. You need to go through every single bolt down your low pressure and high pressure lines and tighten everything as tight as you can. A pin hole sized hole can cause air bubbles that come over time. So all the bleed bolt and fuel filters attachments everything. And this should stop your engine from having air problems.
If theirs air bubbles in your fuel filter low pressure side then the bubbles are coming from the tank sludge. If there are no bubbles coming from your tank then you have a hole somewere in the high pressure line sucking in air at a high pressure.
Fit a daily tank above the engine level and it will work fine! If not sure, first test it with a jerrycan!
I have a Lombardini diesel engine in my yacht self bleeding common rail engine. For those contemplating a new engine you should consider one of these they are super reliable, black smoke when under load is absolutely minimal and are very light for a given hp.
Ever time I put fuel in the tank I make sure a good helping of Biobor goes in to the tank first, it takes care of any “bugs” living in the diesel. For me it’s an absolute must.
Bit more regular maintainance might be the go That fuel filter at 1:07 was from June 5 2003 & 2989 hrs 17 years mmm
James your fuel looks like same I pulled out of my tank 100 gallons of sludge literally mushrooms in fuel tank.. I haven't used fuel right yet waiting till spring once I get in water so motion will help to mix FuelRite thru out tanks...Better to tackle this now before either of us hits open water sure as shit one of those diesel mushrooms will clog fuel system. The other option is installing ports in tank. NOT ALL FUEL PORTS are created equal. Fingers crossed FuelRite will dissolve it all. I used a second fuel pump attached to hose with a foot of harder plastic tubbing on end so I could scrape bottom and sides while I sucked and pushed fuel in and out of tank for a couple hours. It really got a lot of sludge and diesel mushrooms out. If you hit a wall let me know I'll explain what I did. I'm sure you got a plan. It is just time and patience you will crush the fuel project just as you have all the rest of your projects.
#sailingzingaro James you can re-seat those brass washers by heating red hot than drop in water will make them like new able to re-seat without worrying about order.
Hey James, Can you get a pressure washer in there (tank) and use some detergent like simple green ? Be careful with the pressure washer's tip... it can dig into the walls if pressed too close, use a fan nozzle, and hose clamp a piece of rubber tubing along one of the sides of fan pattern so it doesn't block spray... the hose will act as a feeler to keep it from digging into tank's walls. You may want to run the biocide cleaner 50/50 with diesel thru balance of system and let sit and soak a few days to try and stamp out all the other "bug colonies".
Best to find it now than later that filter was band,strip clean replace the fuel line. I’d do a quick compression check.
Epic opening
There is a filter in the lift pump behind that round disk with that one bolt have a look
thats what I was thinking
Yep !
years back in a period of 'Poor Days' my glasses broke in two at the nose bridge.... kept them together for a year with JB Weld. works great on plastic
oh so i kept watching the video...good job! it was never gonna fly with all that crap in the tank!
It's confusing to me how the previous owner just left that beautiful boat set..the good thing is your giving the boat the love it needs
The previous owner had a problem...he died. That’s why it set.
So now I fully understand how nice an electric boat would be.
So true. Just need good battery bank with solar, wind and regen 2x (props and separate regen as well) to "refill" batteries and have decent range, not just in and out marinas & anchorages.
yes when TSLA stars to make one
Ho yes having drunk more than my fair share of diesel and sorted this type of problem tens of times....... this is the way to go ruclips.net/video/jpAnGJpcnQU/видео.html
@@brianevolved2849 I just watched that video. Nice boat! More solar and batteries though please...
As the owner of a sailboat with an electric motor, 100% yes!!!! I hope the range thing is eventually solved with better battery technology, but even if it isn't, not having to spend hours covered in petrochemicals and breathing diesel exhaust is worth the trade-off. Eventually I hope to get out the video on my electric motor, but I am an amateur at videos, and it's never going to be my day job.
Just started watching y’all, almost caught up from when you got out to the oyster. Really excited about this adventure for y’all.
have a look in the lift pump there are small valves (cleanable) in them and possibly another filter gauze, other too watch for on perkins 4cyl's is the electric stop fuel shut off on the injector pump, otherwise put all new fuel line in then you can be sure you are right
Bleed at injection pump nice clean stream. Loosen injector pipe's full throttle engine stopper too run crank over engine till loose injector pipe's spurt fuel careful as high pressure fuel thighten injector pipe's should start . Small pipe's on top of injector are leak off pipe's which take a small amount of fuel back to tank don't need to be bleed.injectors spray fine mist into engine cylinder open shut quickly and a small leaks past this amount increases with age not a problem.
Try bleeding all the way along the entire fuel system.
Start at the racor , then follow the flow along, to the lift pump discharge, then the white filter, in and out, ,,hp pump intake, then outlet,
Then injector inLet.
Works for me!
Lastly air ingress may be at that O ring at the top of the racor, I would take that big lid off, and check the fuel level
Good luck, try not to get frustrated...
Hi James I have the same Perkins in my boat and I've had to deal with dodgy fuel and buckets of sludge in the fuel tanks, A couple of suggestions. the lift pump is almost certainly clogged in the valves however seeing that you are running an electric fuel pump you could simply bypass the mechanical lift pump.
You definitely need to install a sedimenter (glass bowl with gauze strainer) before the electric pump to remove large contaminants it only takes a small amount of gunk to block the electric pump strainer.
There is a fine strainer/filter in the injector pump under where the inlet pipe attaches.
When you bleed the fuel to the injectors you just need to crack the high-pressure inlet lines, not the return lines, also one end of the return lines runs to the fuel filter and the other end needs to run back to the fuel tank if it only runs to the filter it could introduce air into the system.
There is a business called parts 4 engines in the UK that sell everything online for the Perkins 4.236 at a good price.
good luck
Nick
Look for dirt in the body of filters and fittings. It can be anywhere. I had what looked like roots lodged in an elbow that was screwed into a filter housing.
Considering that you cleaned a portion of the tank quite clean, my suggestion is a pump that can develop at least 100 psi and wand to wash the tank similarly to how a dishwasher recirculates the same soapy water. Don't know if you could use dishwasher powder because it has to be hot to work well. The pump could be used to flush out all the lines as well as the tank.
I have replaced.the lift pump on a yanmar 3gm because it was bad, diaphragm went out.
PS I keep reminding myself that it's the journey not the end where all the good shit in life happens even overwhelming boat projects. James you know that all is perfect just as it is the struggle is what makes people love you and what you do. Hang in there...you know this means I might get my boat in water before you ... hahahaha...love ya Bruh!!! Keep Crushing it !!!
Replaced the copper line from the tank to Racor on my Universal 30, that did the trick for me.
Good job and thank you for showing how to troubleshoot the engine and clean associated equipment! How many hours are on the engine?
I ran fuel to a header tank with overflow back to main fuel tanks. header tank always full, and any air exits through header tank relief valve, This header tank holds about twenty litres of fuel--enough for about a day's run on my diesel--probably half a day on yours if no extra fuel is pumped in--but I let my electric header supply pump run all the time to polish the fuel continuously.
Fuekl was a gravity feed from the high mounted header tank to engine's own fuel pump. Diesel fuel was fed to header tank through auxiliary fuel electric pump with manual standby emergency pump, if required to fill the header tank from main tank if electric pump fails. Electric pump was bought from truck spares company. I forget what make it was. It never failed anyway.
That tank internal may need an epoxy lining. All that surface area will hold microbial colonies. The air isn't coming from a leaking connection or problem lift pump? When you get state side, hot soapy pressure washer until its all gone ( it will be awhile by the look of it) and then a high solids epoxy rated for fuels. Many to choose from. The key is the prep.
Afterwards, be religious about biocides and filter changes and the problem will never be an issue.
Sometimes a blast of diesel starting fluid will run the engine long enough to blow the bubbles through. Others have mentioned it, new copper washers and a return line that drains into the tank rather than back into the fuel line is a must, otherwise you will keep getting air.
Did you check the screen in the lift pump? Could be gunked up.
That was a great video
I know you’re frustrated , but I like the technical side too
Hello Laura, hope you’re ok too!
I wish I could work on my boat in shorts ; it’s snow here, freezing
Make sure you all laugh and take time out
That top pipe is the return line for the fuel you don't need to bleed that pipe Just the one at the front
By cracking this open, you may be adding air to the system.
I was thinking the same thing, it's a miracle you eventually got the system bled like that.
Hang in there dude. You’ll get it.
Getter done ! Getter done ! See ya in Florida sensei Back baby Back ! much luv
The washers are copper and you should have heated them up and thrown them in cold water to soften them up and then re use them for a better seal.
Yeah that fuel filter was gross...
Trying to fill up a racor with a 5 gallon fuel can , just doesn’t work for me either.
I usually re-purpose a 1 litre lube oil container, fill with diesel, and keep it handy.
Pour the fuel from the can to a small container, then fill the racor.
And you could fill that white filter with diesel.
It certainly makes replacing the filter element and refilling the racor easier at sea...
Man crazy problems like that suck so bad.
Dyed fuel will turn that dark red. Clear desiel doesn't leave that residue. It settlements out of the fuel if it sits a long time.
I don’t know much about diesels however you mentioned that once the engine started it would run for about the same amount of time. I’m thinking it has to do with the cooling system. Didn’t hear you say it was a combination saltwater fresh water. Fresh water being a coolant. There is a number of areas that can become clogged also the dual valve cap. Hope this helps. Don’t give up
Good video.
James the mechanic. JB weld and ducktape.
James the mechanic.....just because one has been doing it for 20 years doesn't mean he has been doing it right.
You should use star tron fuel treatment. It is an enzyme that eats the bugs.
I've had this issue(Trawler Perkins 6.354)....I banged my head against the wall until I opened to fuel pickup tube within the tank. There was a ribbon, an actual ribbon of sludge from using a fuel additive that had blocked the tube causing (somehow) air in the lines constantly. I pulled it all out and bamn, motor ran perfectly. Perhaps that may help? Best of luck...from Dania beach FL.
It looks like you're bleeding the return line to the filter and actually adding air to it, which then takes time to circulate and kill your engine.
A tip, take a electrical screwdriver, put a decent sized screw through the sponche or the metallic brush and put that on the screwddriver/drill, woala u have a powertool for the job :D
You want to crack the lines while you're cranking and then close them back up when you stop cranking, you were introducing Air back into the system every time you left them open and stop cranking..
I see you have new Dakota batteries. We like them and they work really well. Good luck with yours.
The gunk in there is absolutely nasty 8.0 Yuk!!
The copper gasket washers loose their function if you refit them. Because the Copper gets hard after first use due to mechanical force. To resoften them you can heat them with a torch until they glow red a bit.
Do you have a fuel return line going back to the tank? With as bad as the fuel system was gunked up there could still be material in anyone of the lines.
Ya got to clean or replace every line and all rubber lines should be replaced. With running it like that your very pricey injectors will get clogged up but may be able to clean them as well.
Did you reuse the washers on the injectors?
Could be the aren’t seated properly.
by now you have this figured.
She had the " get it runnin or you not gettin any" look on her face. Seen it many times.
Haha I was thinking the same thing, she was not amused....
@@steviebee1989 Naw. She seems like a really nice girl. I think she's still just a bit uncomfortable being on camera.
New crew is new to this boat life and seems willing to do a good job ! Notice that she increased the throttle when the engine started to die ! Good heads up move on her part ! She'll be handy for sure !
I like that she is in fact Flat
@@Blademasterssss She looks like a handful to me...
I would get some good de greaser leave it a while then jet wash it then pump it out, also James been a Mecanic my self have you changed the seals top and bottom on the fuel filter housing ? If it won’t start after that try some easy start if you can get your hands on some ,and it sounds like it’s down on compression check the tappet clearance and does it have glow plugs ? All the best Paul
Air can come from poor connections, improperly seated filter housings (especially if the problem occurs after a filter change), and pinholes in fuel lines caused by corrosion and vibration against bulkheads or the engine block. If the boat has more than one fuel tank and a selector valve, the valve may be admitting air. Since the only part of the fuel system under suction pressure is that from the tank to the lift pump, this is the most likely problem area.
May I suggest Nitrile gloves when working on the engine. They will protect your hands from diesel smell
Use your electric plump direct from the tank of pressurize the fuel system you will find the air leak a pin hole will drive you nuts trying to find
"I may have to prime that with my mouth"... Words many a Seaman have said.
And seawoman
Air release valve would be helpful.
It seems like it’s running out of fuel (fuel starvation)...there may be a problem with the hp pump...try running it directly from a jug to the high pressure pump and see how that goes.
Is it my imagination or do you have tons of room, and light, around that engine? I'm blown away over the fact that you don't need to get all balled up or have to crawl, squeeze or perform other feats of body manipulations to get at it. Hope you're well.
I admire your cool brother. I would have dropped F-bombs and thrown tools on the 6th sputter out.JB weld, after Prometheus bringing us fire this is the second-best gift the gods gave us.
A lesson in how to test the patience of a mechanic... Rum solves all !!
That's Diesel microbes. You will have to treat the new diesel with a diesel biocide to clean the entire fuel system.
Yep that's what I was thinking.
i have to go through all those air bleeding steps with my 40yo universal diesel every time its sat for over a month or so , im so glad you didnt require that beautiful jersey girl to help you with this horrific messy project beautiful women shouldnt be exposed to such filth!