This might be out of left field but have you checked your grounds? Is it possible that they just need to be cleaned up/sanded and reconnected? Worth a shot and a dab of dielectric grease.
been eyeballing things, My van is pretty clean with no corrosion or rust anywhere - Always grabbing and twisting wires around looking for something - Really thinking the distributor on the 03 code and that my alternator is beginning to go. My sending unit is getting wacky, too so I have a new fuel pump... I'll eventually sort it, just weird is kind of intermittent - which is why thinking about a lose ground does make sense
that fizz noise when you touched that pcv valve on rocker cover reminded me i had one of those pcv valves go bad made that exact noise i think once i looked inside the valve it had a metal disc faulty must be 30yrs ago
I had one of my vans gave me that code because of a vacuum leak. Another was Cam sensor. And one was pancake disease And the cam Sensor. I'd always do a quick compression check just to rule that out before I did anything.
Compression test is on deck, relying on my pal Dave for the help as he has the test kit but he's sick... Checked for vacuum leaks and the cam shaft sensor is only a year old... I do have another one that was only a month old when I put this distributor in last year...
Im guessing issue is with your new spider. I had p0305 when i got my van. Could not figgure it out for smog until i hooked up my autel. Then i updated to newer spider style not orig popit type. Worked great for 1 week then p0305 again but now i got injector code also. Eneded up getting refund and just cleaning my popit older one and reinstall. My point is if you have the popit style it wont tell you injector issue just p0303. If you did the newer style spider then you should have 2 codes. I will try and make you a video 2mrw of how i found my issue w a quality scanner by shutting off injector 1 by 1 and see if engine runs worse each time.
@@slapaho1589 No, i've had these same issues before I put the new computer in it - After further research and tips here in these comments, I'm thinking it's more about the Ignition control module (ICM) - I just ordered on and have a new coil sitting here, I'll do both at the same time
Since you have a P code misfiring at cyl3, try swapping out the spark plug with another on the bank to see if the misfire code changes to another cyl. It's free diagnosis and can eliminate a faulty spark plug. One time I cracked the ceramic on a spark plug install because I couldn't get torque on the spark plug socket squarely and caused a misfire. Also if you have a multimeter check the ohms on the spark plug wire for cyl3 and compare with others. Good luck!
I feel your frustration! Right now I have a parasitic battery drain I can't find. Plus at the same time my van will start and run great but will die after running for 20-30 minutes. I am thinking coil. I am wondering if are these two issues linked in some way. I will figure it out but the Astro gremlins are working overtime in Astro world. LOL. PS, it lookings like the dash lights are blinking.
I had the #3 again . New cap and rotor and went back to 87 octane and it's gone . I've looked into a different style distributer . Looking for a dist that has a better cap design . Even v8s has the same trouble with the flat design
i had the same exact issue for my 98 safari and it turned out to be the ignition coil computer its located right next to the ignition coil on a heat sink and they use some sort of grease from the factory to dissipate heat and over time that brakes down and that little computer overheats and it starts bugging out i would change that if i where you regardless
I've got to look into that - My pal Captain Rick is a mechanic and has a Ford van. When I was helping him with his van last week he mentioned the "ignition module" - Of course he was talking Ford, his went bad and he went through several bought at auto parts stores - Turns out, after research he learned he needed the factory one, found one in a junkyard van, popped into his van and it's been good since...
@@malikchams3932 I did look into this, videos on youtube mention the same issues I'm having - Thanks. The AC Delco part is over $100, with shipping it's $133 from Rock Auto - I have the new coil sitting her so I'll do both at the same time. It's the ignition control module and the "grease" you mentioned is a thermal grease to help transfer the heat to the aluminum cooling sink. The coil replacement is a real crazy process where you have to bench the entire unit to grind off rivets to separate the coil from the bracket - I'll do it all at the same time on the bench including replacing the ICM
Yes it’s not that hard to replace the coil all I did was use a drill bit to drill the rivets out and it popped right out and I slid the new one in I used steel rivets because of the strength and heat I wouldn’t use aluminum
As mentioned, the distributor is the AC Delco and has only been in there a year - BUT. I went ahead and ordered the Amazon aluminum replacement so stay tuned...
I ended up changing out my alternator earlier this month after all the electronics turned off driving down the highway at 9 pm. Took it into the O Reilly's in the morning and it failed the tests anyway, but what's this about needing a smaller idler pulley for the stock alternator / belt? I have been seeing periodic voltage drops that are difficult to replicate, but I figured it was a result of a short circuit somewhere that I just haven't set aside several days to trace out. Also thanks for all your videos, glad I'm not the only one pulling my hair ouot haha.
Re-listen to what I said, I didn't say "stock" alternator, I mention the larger truck alternator - It has a higher output but runs a larger pulley... I was unaware of that fact, Aaron told me this today, it's the set-up he's running....
Stock alternator is 105 amps. I swapped out to the 145 amp which is a little larger in diameter. Bolts right in, but my solution was to get a different belt that was just a little longer.
@@AstroVanTribe The Shaggin' Wagon is in the shop at the moment, so I can't get the part number, but it is a Gates belt around an inch longer than stock. I took the original to O'Reilley's and tried a couple based on length. I have another vehicle to use for chasing parts.
I've had those same issues and the cap has be a problem (same cap crack issue). When I upgraded to a performance distributor and cap. No codes until it after it was stolen and the engine was blown up. The Aluminum distributor is the way to go. A classic for you: (ruclips.net/video/oH0AVGkPP7g/видео.html&ab_channel=RitchShydner) Weathering the storms around Monterey. Make sure to clear all codes with your reader before you restart, or better yet, dissconnect the battery. Just years of sniffing around the rad hole. After this, get out and enjoy it! Take a mini vacation to Monterey, two blocks from the beach and a place to park!
I've got a pal in Santa Cruz I need to go see, too....! Ordered the amazon aluminum distributor recommended by Chris over at Builds United last night - Stay tuned
@@AstroVanTribe I'd you're traveling through the area let me know. If you need a place to park and make a weekend out of it, 2 blocks from the beach. No social media based on what I do. I'm on LinkedIn.
I'll be doing that soon, I do have a replacement - I don't think the coil would cause one cylinder to misfire BUT the misfire does go away then come back, it's intermittent.... So, "maybe" (?) we'll see
Thanks sir for all details.. it's so helpful for me 🙏
This might be out of left field but have you checked your grounds? Is it possible that they just need to be cleaned up/sanded and reconnected?
Worth a shot and a dab of dielectric grease.
been eyeballing things, My van is pretty clean with no corrosion or rust anywhere - Always grabbing and twisting wires around looking for something - Really thinking the distributor on the 03 code and that my alternator is beginning to go. My sending unit is getting wacky, too so I have a new fuel pump... I'll eventually sort it, just weird is kind of intermittent - which is why thinking about a lose ground does make sense
They blow out the coils
Come to florida look at mine please 96 astro Chevy misfire three shops have not been able to fix itvand im throwing parts at it at this point
that fizz noise when you touched that pcv valve on rocker cover reminded me i had one of those pcv valves go bad made that exact noise i think once i looked inside the valve it had a metal disc faulty must be 30yrs ago
I had one of my vans gave me that code because of a vacuum leak. Another was Cam sensor. And one was pancake disease And the cam Sensor. I'd always do a quick compression check just to rule that out before I did anything.
Compression test is on deck, relying on my pal Dave for the help as he has the test kit but he's sick... Checked for vacuum leaks and the cam shaft sensor is only a year old... I do have another one that was only a month old when I put this distributor in last year...
@@AstroVanTribe good luck brother..
Im guessing issue is with your new spider. I had p0305 when i got my van. Could not figgure it out for smog until i hooked up my autel. Then i updated to newer spider style not orig popit type. Worked great for 1 week then p0305 again but now i got injector code also. Eneded up getting refund and just cleaning my popit older one and reinstall. My point is if you have the popit style it wont tell you injector issue just p0303. If you did the newer style spider then you should have 2 codes. I will try and make you a video 2mrw of how i found my issue w a quality scanner by shutting off injector 1 by 1 and see if engine runs worse each time.
I have an OBDII reader, only getting the one code and it's intermittent which tells me its more likely electrical
@@AstroVanTribe seems code started after ecu swap? Put the old one back in and see if any changes.
@@slapaho1589 No, i've had these same issues before I put the new computer in it - After further research and tips here in these comments, I'm thinking it's more about the Ignition control module (ICM) - I just ordered on and have a new coil sitting here, I'll do both at the same time
Since you have a P code misfiring at cyl3, try swapping out the spark plug with another on the bank to see if the misfire code changes to another cyl. It's free diagnosis and can eliminate a faulty spark plug. One time I cracked the ceramic on a spark plug install because I couldn't get torque on the spark plug socket squarely and caused a misfire. Also if you have a multimeter check the ohms on the spark plug wire for cyl3 and compare with others. Good luck!
Did you ever figure this out? I have similar issues currently
yes, in the end I went to my mechanic and had him do a computer relearn:
ruclips.net/video/_hl4xkxF4sY/видео.html
yea, check your grounds iike MAX FISH said...
I feel your frustration! Right now I have a parasitic battery drain I can't find. Plus at the same time my van will start and run great but will die after running for 20-30 minutes. I am thinking coil. I am wondering if are these two issues linked in some way. I will figure it out but the Astro gremlins are working overtime in Astro world. LOL. PS, it lookings like the dash lights are blinking.
The "blinking" is just an effect of them being recorded by the phone camera - They don't actually do that
I had the #3 again . New cap and rotor and went back to 87 octane and it's gone . I've looked into a different style distributer . Looking for a dist that has a better cap design . Even v8s has the same trouble with the flat design
i had the same exact issue for my 98 safari and it turned out to be the ignition coil computer its located right next to the ignition coil on a heat sink and they use some sort of grease from the factory to dissipate heat and over time that brakes down and that little computer overheats and it starts bugging out i would change that if i where you regardless
I've got to look into that - My pal Captain Rick is a mechanic and has a Ford van. When I was helping him with his van last week he mentioned the "ignition module" - Of course he was talking Ford, his went bad and he went through several bought at auto parts stores - Turns out, after research he learned he needed the factory one, found one in a junkyard van, popped into his van and it's been good since...
Yes I would replace that the paste is probably all worn out and it’s probably overheating
@@malikchams3932 I did look into this, videos on youtube mention the same issues I'm having - Thanks. The AC Delco part is over $100, with shipping it's $133 from Rock Auto - I have the new coil sitting her so I'll do both at the same time.
It's the ignition control module and the "grease" you mentioned is a thermal grease to help transfer the heat to the aluminum cooling sink. The coil replacement is a real crazy process where you have to bench the entire unit to grind off rivets to separate the coil from the bracket - I'll do it all at the same time on the bench including replacing the ICM
Yes it’s not that hard to replace the coil all I did was use a drill bit to drill the rivets out and it popped right out and I slid the new one in I used steel rivets because of the strength and heat I wouldn’t use aluminum
Possible that the distributor gear is worn 4.3 is bad for that too pull it out and check it
As mentioned, the distributor is the AC Delco and has only been in there a year - BUT. I went ahead and ordered the Amazon aluminum replacement so stay tuned...
I've got a random p0 300 that pops up at about 80 mi an hour,
bummer....
I ended up changing out my alternator earlier this month after all the electronics turned off driving down the highway at 9 pm. Took it into the O Reilly's in the morning and it failed the tests anyway, but what's this about needing a smaller idler pulley for the stock alternator / belt? I have been seeing periodic voltage drops that are difficult to replicate, but I figured it was a result of a short circuit somewhere that I just haven't set aside several days to trace out. Also thanks for all your videos, glad I'm not the only one pulling my hair ouot haha.
Re-listen to what I said, I didn't say "stock" alternator, I mention the larger truck alternator - It has a higher output but runs a larger pulley... I was unaware of that fact, Aaron told me this today, it's the set-up he's running....
@@AstroVanTribe looks like I got gremlins in my ears too. Thanks for the reply! Haha
Stock alternator is 105 amps. I swapped out to the 145 amp which is a little larger in diameter. Bolts right in, but my solution was to get a different belt that was just a little longer.
@@pigpilot7275 If you've got links/part numbers...
@@AstroVanTribe The Shaggin' Wagon is in the shop at the moment, so I can't get the part number, but it is a Gates belt around an inch longer than stock. I took the original to O'Reilley's and tried a couple based on length. I have another vehicle to use for chasing parts.
That's looks like a a PITA to do..
I've had those same issues and the cap has be a problem (same cap crack issue). When I upgraded to a performance distributor and cap. No codes until it after it was stolen and the engine was blown up. The Aluminum distributor is the way to go. A classic for you: (ruclips.net/video/oH0AVGkPP7g/видео.html&ab_channel=RitchShydner) Weathering the storms around Monterey. Make sure to clear all codes with your reader before you restart, or better yet, dissconnect the battery. Just years of sniffing around the rad hole. After this, get out and enjoy it! Take a mini vacation to Monterey, two blocks from the beach and a place to park!
I've got a pal in Santa Cruz I need to go see, too....! Ordered the amazon aluminum distributor recommended by Chris over at Builds United last night - Stay tuned
@@AstroVanTribe I'd you're traveling through the area let me know. If you need a place to park and make a weekend out of it, 2 blocks from the beach. No social media based on what I do. I'm on LinkedIn.
Change your coil
I'll be doing that soon, I do have a replacement - I don't think the coil would cause one cylinder to misfire BUT the misfire does go away then come back, it's intermittent.... So, "maybe" (?) we'll see