Thanks for these great videos, your graphical diagrams make it so much easier to understand. Specifically, high/low speed damping circuits, and how they interact.
This is fantastic! Enough science to explain what's going on and he also gives a practical way of setting your suspension up. I've just watched a few of these Tuesday Tunes, so as soon as my brain cools down I'm off out to hit some bumps...
Thanks for these videos. So many articles on suspension setup effectively just say "adjust the setting until it feels right" , but it's great to have someone explain the theory behind it all to get a better understanding how each aspect interact with each other.
Hey Steve, thanks for this really interesting video. I found quite interesting what you were saying about rock shox dampers. It took me always quite a while to figure out a usable rebound setting, but it was almost impossible to find a good compromise for any conditions found on the trails. Either the shock was kicking on jumps or it didn't track roots and rocks as good as it should... The only way was to adjust the internal hsr, although I am weighing pretty much like an average rider.
Excellent videos. I really like your order of operations tip. How would you suggest incorporating the use of volume spacers in that scheme? Is it better to see if you can avoid using them at first, then add them if you fail to achieve your set up goals? Or in some cases, is it reasonable to start with spacers and tune from there?
Hi Steve! Good explanations, thank you. I wanted to clarify one thing: at ~9:48 you say "and even if you don't, most of the time the low speed rebound adjuster is actually ???. This is especially true for RockShox". I cannot figure out what is the word in place of ???
Any tips for tuning a rebound rear shock (like a Monarch or Float) that only has HSR adjustment? I've had trouble finding a setting that won't pogo me off jumps while not making the shock feel harsh.
BenTheBikerBoy your suspension won't be able to bring the maximum of performance when your tires suck. (Pressure& grip) Furthermore the tires are the first contact to the ground and will absorb a lot of (small) impacts before the suspension starts working properly.
Because if you don't set tyre pressure appropriately before anything else, you'll end up with harshness or vagueness problems that can't be solved by any amount of spring or damper tuning. 2psi changes in tyre pressure make a huge difference to suspension feel.
You said I should adjust the hsc first (after the last). What about the lsc for the rest runs of the hsc (bracketing)? Should it be fully closed or open? Thanks! Btw I like your explanations!
Adjust the HSC and HSR before the LSC. Leave them where they are, then adjust LSC. If you need more support but the LSC can't do it, then you can look at slightly increasing the HSC to enable greater range from the LSC.
Steven Mathews thanks for your answer. But my question is still there. Should the lsc be fully open or closed to test and adjust the hsc (via bracketing)? What do you prefer? Is it correct when I say: the hsc is isolated when the lsc is fully closed - the suspension feels stiff and harsh until the hsc bypass opens?! If the lsc is fully open I need a higher velocity (= more oil pressure) to open the hsc bypass? The suspension tends to run through the travel?! All referred to the hsc adjustment. 👍 Hope my English is good enough 😉
I'd suggest you start with the LSC fully open before adjusting your HSC - if you close it fully you'll end up creating harshness that is realistically the fault of the LSC, but happening as you adjust the HSC and therefore being falsely attributed to the HSC.
@@VorsprungSuspension hi steve, great two videos thanks. On a Fox 36 Grip2 there's more clicks than per the manual on the HSC. What do you consider is the workable range on this adjustor ( if say from full closed counting back )?
Functionally the same as running the crowns higher up the stanchions by the same distance that the spring is preloaded - marginally slacker angles, marginally higher ride height and a very slight rearwards weight shift.
Shaft speed of the fork/shock. Not directly related to bike speed or distance of travel. Low speed is normally things like pedaling forces, braking forces, preloading on jumps, etc. High speed is bumps/impacts/landings.
Thanks for these great videos, your graphical diagrams make it so much easier to understand. Specifically, high/low speed damping circuits, and how they interact.
This is fantastic! Enough science to explain what's going on and he also gives a practical way of setting your suspension up. I've just watched a few of these Tuesday Tunes, so as soon as my brain cools down I'm off out to hit some bumps...
Thanks for these videos. So many articles on suspension setup effectively just say "adjust the setting until it feels right" , but it's great to have someone explain the theory behind it all to get a better understanding how each aspect interact with each other.
Excellent video as always, thanks Steve. Glad to see the Luftkappe is doing so well for you.
Hey Steve, thanks for this really interesting video. I found quite interesting what you were saying about rock shox dampers. It took me always quite a while to figure out a usable rebound setting, but it was almost impossible to find a good compromise for any conditions found on the trails. Either the shock was kicking on jumps or it didn't track roots and rocks as good as it should... The only way was to adjust the internal hsr, although I am weighing pretty much like an average rider.
Excellent videos. I really like your order of operations tip. How would you suggest incorporating the use of volume spacers in that scheme? Is it better to see if you can avoid using them at first, then add them if you fail to achieve your set up goals? Or in some cases, is it reasonable to start with spacers and tune from there?
Hi Steve! Good explanations, thank you. I wanted to clarify one thing: at ~9:48 you say "and even if you don't, most of the time the low speed rebound adjuster is actually ???. This is especially true for RockShox". I cannot figure out what is the word in place of ???
Hi,
I had the same issue but after a few views I'm pretty sure he says "the dominant one".
Cheers!
Great stuff
Any tips for tuning a rebound rear shock (like a Monarch or Float) that only has HSR adjustment? I've had trouble finding a setting that won't pogo me off jumps while not making the shock feel harsh.
wait, why are tyres more important than spring rate in suspension setup?
BenTheBikerBoy your suspension won't be able to bring the maximum of performance when your tires suck. (Pressure& grip)
Furthermore the tires are the first contact to the ground and will absorb a lot of (small) impacts before the suspension starts working properly.
Because if you don't set tyre pressure appropriately before anything else, you'll end up with harshness or vagueness problems that can't be solved by any amount of spring or damper tuning. 2psi changes in tyre pressure make a huge difference to suspension feel.
okay that clears it up, thanks! keep up the stellar work
Good stuff!
You said I should adjust the hsc first (after the last). What about the lsc for the rest runs of the hsc (bracketing)? Should it be fully closed or open? Thanks! Btw I like your explanations!
Adjust the HSC and HSR before the LSC. Leave them where they are, then adjust LSC. If you need more support but the LSC can't do it, then you can look at slightly increasing the HSC to enable greater range from the LSC.
Steven Mathews thanks for your answer. But my question is still there. Should the lsc be fully open or closed to test and adjust the hsc (via bracketing)? What do you prefer?
Is it correct when I say: the hsc is isolated when the lsc is fully closed - the suspension feels stiff and harsh until the hsc bypass opens?!
If the lsc is fully open I need a higher velocity (= more oil pressure) to open the hsc bypass? The suspension tends to run through the travel?!
All referred to the hsc adjustment. 👍
Hope my English is good enough 😉
I'd suggest you start with the LSC fully open before adjusting your HSC - if you close it fully you'll end up creating harshness that is realistically the fault of the LSC, but happening as you adjust the HSC and therefore being falsely attributed to the HSC.
@@VorsprungSuspension hi steve, great two videos thanks. On a Fox 36 Grip2 there's more clicks than per the manual on the HSC. What do you consider is the workable range on this adjustor ( if say from full closed counting back )?
would it be useful to work by bracaketing also on compression damping?
ovodo16 yes it is. But it's hard to ride a track so often with the same energy 😉
Absolutely - you can use bracketing with any external adjuster.
How does increasing fork preload affect handling for DH?
Functionally the same as running the crowns higher up the stanchions by the same distance that the spring is preloaded - marginally slacker angles, marginally higher ride height and a very slight rearwards weight shift.
Did you video this in a Gym? 😂
What the hell is low and high? The speed of the impacts? The amount of travel? Each one say different things!
Shaft speed of the fork/shock. Not directly related to bike speed or distance of travel. Low speed is normally things like pedaling forces, braking forces, preloading on jumps, etc. High speed is bumps/impacts/landings.
edulmes maybe is both things travel and speed, but I get the examples, very clear. Thanks!
@@abelramos8652 no, it is just a shaft speed anywhere in the travel.
Thanks guys. Oh btw fuck Fauci Gates and all that creepers who wanted to turn the world into a gigantic hospital. Fuck them so hard.