I'm an old dirt biker and I have built 3 different mid-drive e-bikes now, one with Bafang and two with TongSheng. I have a few observations based on my experience... The Bafang is a powerful motor but the power delivery is an abrupt on or off. The throttle is good for starting off from an awkward position on the trail. You can "ghost pedal" with the Bafang while cruising and it will speed along at full power without the throttle... The TongSheng is a less powerful motor but the power delivery is more natural since it is a torque sensor motor. It varies power according to the amount of pressure you apply to the pedals. The revolution counter magnet on the wheel can be left off the TongSheng to eliminate that wiring. A tiny handlebar display is optional for the TongSheng. The motor is physically smaller...I found that the "dolphin" style batteries always end up needing to be strapped down with bungies since the narrow mounting rail is just holding the center of the battery. Mounting the battery high on the frame noticeably affects the bike handling. Shorter crank arms are a good option to keep pedal strikes down, but crank discipline still needs to be learned. I get about twenty miles offroad with a 14AH battery...Have fun! E-bikes are like magic!
I don't mind the throttle as I like to ride it like a MX bike but the abrupt power on pedal assist is strange. I have a programing cable coming to see if I can adjust that. As far as the high mount battery, it doesn't seem to effect the handling at all to me. I am actually able to grab with my knees like on an MX bike. I will look into the TongSheng motor and possible do a build with one too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage One nice thing about the Bafang is that you can buy a cable to attach to your motor and phone or computer to program the motor. Lots of options, including the time it takes the motor to kick in. Nice job on the modification for the battery.
@@mikehemen9708 You can go full throttle on TSDZ2 as well. The internal torque sensor makes your "less" power *more* usable and you end up with a net benefit that is tunable as well as better range, both due to smaller motor and better use of power/smoother curves because torque sensing.
I've used both of those motors and I totally agree with you on the differences between the two. My biggest issue with the TongSheng though is the mounting, it's just too low for real mountain bike riding.
Hey just wanted to let you know that I'm going to order things tonight and build My All out bike...they need to start sending you free stuff for demo and you should start selling thing's... thanks for the video brother..
I really appreciate it. To be honest, I’m not constant enough with my videos. I never post them “once a week” or anything. So that hurts my channel. But hearing how people like it (and sometimes hate it) really motivates me. Thanks.
Yeah bummer about the battery not fitting.. I would go with a fork rack? Rear doesn't look like much of an option if you do it right you can have the battery and panniers up front... would give you good attack.. the battery is too high the way it is it's not optimal for center of gravity.. although it's not a bad look it's kind of sporty and Moto
@@aMotoheadsGarage is there a way to put a cool center stand on there? Kickstand is going to be everything with that top heavy arrangement., always arrange it thoughtfully.. bring some rope to tie it to something and don't get it tangled in the chain., you'll curse your eyes out and lose the house, and that ain't right. I got a handkerchief caught my derailleur once at 4:00 a.m. that wasn't nice , anyhow , You don't want it tipping over! bending the crank is the worst nightmare for those things.. lay it down like a baby.. I brought my local friend to meet my mechanic and he bought a fancy Cruiser with a high level kit like you got there? Brought it home and let his friend take a ride on it in the first 15 minutes laid it down hard, on Pavement, crank was bent.. and the hanger. I tried to warn him and everyone that it's going to be squirrely with those Cruiser handlebars.. urged him to switch them out but it was all about the look.. anyhow he fixed it for the big bucks and, still rides it with those same handlebars.. he's not so quick to offer his friends a ride
Finally! An install video! Except you skipped the most important part... showing how the wires connect up :(. How is the bike holding up? Still working well? Any issues?
I installed a 750W Bafang on my Kona Stinky and I love it. I've taken it up some pretty steep trails here in Utah and it does great. I can go close to 30mph on flat ground, so that's fun too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage My state has a problem with way too many very large mountains. The BBSHD going to kick their asses next year. Tested it up a 45% clime and it did it no problem.
@@KTB3007 I'm running a 52V 50AMP 10AH battery made from Samsung 21700. I got it at a local shop in West Jordan, UT called Electrify Bike Co. The Stinky has limited space in the triangle so I needed something smaller. You would likely be able to fit one of the Shark batteries in your triangle.
Top Tip: Add a bit of wide duck tape around the body of the motor to cover the seams where the motor body mounts to its side covers; this stops water ingress during wet weather which creeps in and ruins your day. (I have a similar conversion, hardtail old Diamond Back Ascent Ex; smaller battery and can, just, do a 40mile round trip without a recharge)
I'll have to see if I could put a gasket there using the old "hammer" method for making gaskets. I'm pretty sure I still have a huge roll of that stuff kicking around. Thanks for the suggestion.
I did this to my old Cannondale a couple of years ago. One thing you can do is double the number of pedal assist levels from 5 to 10 in the settings mode on the controller. By doing that you will only get 10% power on level 1 instead of the 20% you are getting now so it will not be as abrupt when starting off. The higher levels are for climbing hills, anything over level 2 or 3 and you will be ghost pedaling on level ground.
I’m going to piss a lot of MTB people off but I barely pedal at all. I use the throttle 99.99% of the time. I only pedal from the truck to the trailhead, so I get less dirty looks 😁
Get the programming cable. It will not only allow you to set what the pedal assist levels are, it can also set the throttle so it's always 0-100% power rather than 0-PAS level. I found the stock PAS 1 & 2 levels were too low for use, so I reset them for specific speeds (on flat ground). The throttle not connected to the PAS is really nice, especially when taking off from a red light or when climbing a hill and you realize you set the PAS too low.
Had my bafang bbshd for about 2.5 years now and so far I've went through 3 chains and 2 freewheels. Has alot of power. I weigh about 230 bije weight with everything is about 80 pounds, and I can easily hit about 34 to 37 mph. Also have a pair of continental road tires at 2.2 width. Only thing I regret was not going with a 52v system. I went with the 48v 24.5ah battery. But I get about 56 miles on throttle only with excellent conditions. I commute to work everyday total of 26 miles both ways and I freaking love it.
@@aMotoheadsGarage KMC E-series ebike chains. E1 for single speed bikes. E8-E12 for 8-12speed bikes. Heavier duty Also. Invest in a Park Tools brand chain stretch measurement tool. Check regularly and replace chains at 0.65 or so. Don’t wait for 0.75. Once chains reach 0.75 the cassette will also possibly need replacement. If matching a new chain with a worn cassette the chain will skip and possibly break the chain and cassette teeth. Also. Releasing pedal effort slightly while shifting and gently allowing the gears to slip to the next gear (even with the gear sensor) will prolong drivetrain life. Think of it as easing on the dirt bike throttle when shifting.
Been running my bafang bbso2 with a 52v 14ah battery for about 5 months now. We made her a single speed to make it unbreakable and this baby is smooth, I will always rec that people build there own. If something goes wrong, instead of filing a support ticket and being SOL for a while, you can fix the bike yourself. That most prebuilts are lacking in a category or two, where as you can get the full package if you go custom.
You are absolutely right, but it wouldn’t fit. It turned out not as bad though. When on the trail, I can grip the bike with my knees like a dirtbike. So kind of a happy accident.
That's what I did to mine and it gives a nice low centre of gravity and is out of the way. In my case it was possible to position it directly above the motor running up the frame so that the front wheel/suspension still couldn't hit it.
@@medhurstt yeah, unfortunately this frame doesn’t allow that to work. But, because I’m riding it like a dirtbike, it actually helps me stay connected to the bike. Plus help me train to squeeze with my knees for racing motocross.
@@aMotoheadsGarage It looks like it'd fit reasonably comfortably although you still have the problem of the bend in the frame. Did the front wheel get in the way under full compression of the forks? Mine didn't fortunately.
this was a great video - you may have approached things a bit differently than I would have but I appreciate how you explained your thought process and gave such a detailed breakdown.
Thanks. Did you happen to see the next video where I “upgrade” the bike? I give a little bit more detail on my thoughts after owning it and the design.
Good bike for $200. If you could build a U shaped split battery 🔋 case where each side woukd hang over the main front tube. Would be perfect 👌 better looks & lower center of weight gravity.
You have a 22 year old USED electric mountain bike. What would the cost be if you used a NEW QUALITY BIKE instead of a used one? Otherwise you are comparing grapes to watermelons. Great build though.
I think it’s more about showing people that it’s possible to at least get into the sport. Or add the motor to their bike. I have a full test coming with buddies who have modern mountain bikes.
@@aMotoheadsGarage I said it was a great build. If you used a new bike it would have made the pricing more realistic. As you say with someone with a bike it was a good example.
I did the same with the 750 fang mid drive, 46t lekkie chainring and the 52v jumbo batt Donor bike is my Trek 4300 4Series mtb. I can hit 40.8 max speed full charge of 58.9v (While peddling my ass off ) on a smooth street. Bike weighs in at 55 lbs now which is still light when compared to others. Everything other them frame and shocks are new Shimano Deore/XT. If you buy the programing cable you can set performance as you wish.. just don't crank the amps up to far as you may fry your controller... and you should throw your parts on a larger donor bike with better shocks.. that one is to small for you 💁
I was lucky first shot mounting my BBS02 after pulling out my 20 year old bike from the shed. Also have a 52V battery. My changes are as follows: 54T front and 34/11 rear so no more ghost pedaling, yet still ok for steep hills. Also hacked the software with Luna to adapt the assist levels to my taste. This was overall a highly rewarding project and recommend it to all. (Btw, with the 52V, I get approx. 80 miles on flat roads with reasonable assist levels)
He never said what motor and battery size he bought. Battery location is not ideal as it places all that weight up high. To OP there is a programming cable available for your setup that allows dialing in all sorts for characteristics of the motor system.
My dad converted his old steel MTB with a mid drive Bafang kit last year. We also noticed the abrupt ‘on off’ peer delivery and didn’t how it rode. I then bought the cable and I tweaked all the settings until we were happy with it. It eliminated the jerky throttle behaviour and even improved the distance on a charge. It can reach over 30mph on the flat too!
Just starting your Video. The main shaft has bearings, Bafang says 50-60 Nm, but this is not tight enough usually. 80Nm is max, withoutbputting to much strain on the bearings, lock thight will do the rest.
Dude, I saw you on TFL doing their course in your 2dr Bronco MT. I got the same Badlands on 33s with the 7spd. Now here I am finding you rocking the Bafang I'm about to build myself. I'll stay tuned. Good work buddy.
Battery placement like a lot of the build is the Mutha Of Necessity. and battery weight matters as much as placement. I have found 36 volts is a really fine battery though all my personal bikes are 48 volts. 36 Volt on my wife's Voilamart 1000 watt cruiser keeps up with most my bikes and even out runs some of my 48's, it is far lighter than 48 volt batteries especially when you want longer range you need something like 20 ah 1000w well a 36 volt will weigh far less and will be smaller in size so easier to hang on the frame . You may lose a mile an hour from 48 to 36 in some cases with direct drives but mid drives and planetary geared hubs run great on them and generally you can set the battery lever in your handlebar controller.
Can't go wrong with a Bafang BBS motor. Especially if you're a DIY'r. I've built 3 now(1 HD and 2 02's). Two are mine, one Road rocket that's HD powered on a 52v battery, controller reprogrammed to give 100% @ full throttle no matter what the PAS is set to. It'll cruise at 40mph in top gear, it's kind of scary. 6500 miles on it so far. 2nd one is Schwinn Axum MTB(hard tail) that's BBS02 powered on a 48v battery. The most recent 02 build was a Birthday gift for my God daughter. By the way, the space between the mounting plate and the motor where you stacked washers is usually always a 5mm gap if your bottom bracket is a standard 68mm BSA. Or a 6mm gap on PF30 bottom brackets after you get the proper adapter in there since all BBS's require the BSA standard.
A battery half that size with 250 watt motor on a road bike would be good for 50-70 miles judging from the experience of other riders I have ridden with. Off road mileage is harder to compare as generally the speeds are a lot lower unless you are downhilling or on a flat non-technical course and most ATB courses are at most 10-15 miles so double track/gravel is needed for longer mileage without beating you up from rocks and roots.
I think my MTB trail test will have to be a multiple day test lol. It below freezing here in Texas and that’s not a fair test for the battery. New videos about the bike coming as soon as it warms up a bit 🥶
I got a BBS02. Just tested it for about 60 miles. Apart from the problem that I have to restrict it to 19 Amps @ 48 Volts because my battery turns off if I draw more. I also have a bike with a el cheapo Chinese 1000W rear direct drive hub motor and compared to this I'm absolutely not impressed with the BBS02. While the Hub Motor goes about 30mph with 19 Amps drawn from the battery the Bafang only makes 25 mph max with the same 19 Amps. In both cases I pedal and help to get to the speed, my guess is that my own power equals to 100-150W. Longest gear ratio is about the same in both bikes and at 30mph i pedal with a cadence of 80 per minute, which ist doable and comfortable but the bafang just does not deliver the same power with 19 Amps @ 48V like the Hub Motor does. The stepest hill I have done so far is done by the hub motor with about 7 mph (still with my biological 100W). Although the Bafang uses the gear ratio it does the hill only minimal better. Seems I spend more money on the bafang for less power and efficiency then on the hub motor.
Just a suggestion. You can buy a seatpost mounted rear rack. There are many, many different models to choose from. I n my opinion your current battery would fit nicely on one and look much better and if you slide forward off the seat accidentally your bits wouldn't slam into the battery. Just a thought.
Yeah, being a motocross rider, the battery actually gives me a place to grab with my knees. Like you do on a dirtbike. So it’s kind of a happy accident 🤷🏻♂️.
That is the worst place you can mount a battery is To put way over the rear tire is going to make the entire thing handle like trash. So many people make this mistake it's laughable. Any two wheeled vehicle you want the weight center and as low in the frame as possible.
Ebikes don't have sensors on the brakes, not even the expensive ones like mine! Heck, I've never seen that before on an EMTB! I'd remove that! Four-piston hydraulics with 203mm discs, Shimano XT Bosch mid-drive definitely don't have anything hooked to the brakes. The system is fully controllable in the settings. Torque settings start at 10Nm and can be adjusted all the way down. The step-on takeoff can be fully adjusted each way, but I'd never build one that's dangerous and ugly your mates just take the mick but jokes aside these old bikes aren't built to take the punishment the geometry is all off to for what the mid drives are programed for! Maybe better with a hub drive with this old FSR
@@Emtbtoday I sounds like you are WAY more extreme on MTB than me lol. If I want to go hard, I’m riding one of my dirtbikes. This is for me to just play around with on the trail. And 100% because pedaling is dumb 🤣
my mate plans on a MORE EFFICIENT ENERGY USE. AXLE STANDS ON HIS WIFE'S BIKE and an alternator and pulley connected by belt to bare rear rim. a cable to his tesla and after she cycles 90 hours he can drive to work.
You’ll also find that it’s nice taking the bike out on good days sometimes. No noise just chilling on a good day driving down to the store. Another upside of a ebike to me
I was wondering how pedalling felt when there was no power. Does the electric motor give a little resistance or does it feel like the cranks are turning freely? I'm not concerned about the extra weight. I've test ridden a Giant Talon E + 1 and I'm really impressed at how it feels like a really good mountain bike with the power off. The lack of friction is amazing. There's nowhere in the world where I can test-ride an e-bike with a mid-drive Bafang motor, though.
Your info all together and item purchase info as well has been super helpful. Thank you. I've watched so many videos and yours has been absolutely the most informative. So informative that it gives me the confidence I needed for purchase. Bafang should pay YOU!
Did this bafang to my Kona ute.. has been Workhorse for years.. been pulling a four wheel farm wagon framed chloroplast camper utility vehicle on a class one hitch, for shopping and Adventures.. it's a new niche.. to get around Rome's roads with less rules and cost
With peddle assist mode, and some programming, limit output to 250w. You'll get well over 100 miles on it, likely around 120. And you'll get around 60 miles with out peddling. That battery is huge, it likely will go much further than my numbers.
I didnt like using bafang. You cant really help pedal when its running. And if you ride on higher gears it also spins faster than you. So basically a scooter.
Also i got my full kit from jhonnynerdout, he had a full consultation with me to see my bike and talk about what I need to order. Without Johnny i would not have my ebike. Thanks for making this vid, it would've helped when i was building mine lol!
Yeah because when I went to order from him it never asked if I want 100mm only had up to 73 mm according to his site and I couldn't find a way to ask him about it without paying 20 bucks
I don't understand the mid drive, I mean yes it makes it easier to climb and its balanced better than a hub motor, that's the main draw, but you're not going to go any faster than you would on a normal / acoustic mountain bike and you're adding weight. And if the place you're riding downhill has a lift you're not worried about climbing up the trail anyways. I'd rather just ride my hardtail.
Good lord I hope over the past year you have learned something about video encoding...I want to watch but damn, it looks like it was recorded on betamax then sat on a speaker magnet for a year.
Change the wheel size down to trick the system to let you go faster. Also reprogram the system to give you power by percentage instead of 100 percent on low levels to a speed like it’s set up.
I also ride single track with my dirt bike every weekend just moved to a area with some sweet mtb trails in Charlottesville I'm all in on the bafang I planned on the big battery will the smaller battery give me less power or just less range ?thanks for the video .I think we are on the same mind set dirtbiker first everything else is to just prepare for dirtbike riding days
The battery “size” is about range. The battery voltage is more about power. I definitely think the 20ah battery is way more than needed for this lol. I believe a 17ah would have been more than enough. I’ll be doing a range test soon.
I have dirtbikes, but I can’t ride them on the MTB trails and they would destroy the trails. This is the best of both worlds. And the battery on top actually helps with riding as it give me something to grip with my knees. Plus, you are right, it looks goofy 🤪
i have a tongsheng as well and can only get two assist levels using the 850c for some reason, the low assist level has to much assist power... and jumps out where i lose control on single track,.... need to lower assist level/power.
I definitely think that the worry of a magnesium on parts are over exaggerated. Yes magnesium can catch fire easily in dust form, but it takes more than heat to set off a cast piece.
I went with TongShen TSDZ2 for my fat tad CSX upgrade but now I need to upgrade to belt drive as I'm breaking chains all the time now. I'm also building a rear wheel with an Enviolo CVT hub that should allow for better power transfer and smooth gear ratio adjustments. That would stop some of the breakage but standard bike chain just stretches with a mid drive so it's always going to be weak; instead of spending the money to upgrade my entire chain drive, including sprockets, etc, removing the external rear cassette + chain and adding belt + IGH will make zero maintenance bulletproof drivetrain. I get full air on the BMX track and I have no trouble getting up into the bowls at the skate park but every time I land the thing or go over a cement lip it smashes the idler pulleys off - that's the final add is a skid plate to keep from destroying the belt pulleys until I can somehow move them above the frame.
Great stuff just in time for me to do some research into doing this before spring since I bought a £220 mountain bike and I aim to fit a mid drive kit. However my frame is kinked by design so mounting the battery is going to be difficult. So i'm looking for a luggage rack that fits onto the swing arm which i've found one but I haven't found another at the moment. I'm only adding a motor just so I can commute to and from work a little easier so I shouldn't need a massive battery pack like that just a slightly slim one.
The awesome thing is, they make them all different shapes and sizes. So you might find one to fit. Just don’t be like me, measure the area more than once. And maybe use a tape and not just your eyeball 🤣🤣
Nice video I got the same kit from JNO same price but the sticker states 250W BBSO1B he swears the max output is 750 W also kit came with a 48v-10 ah battery.
lol I get it. Definitely watch the 2nd video. Battery mounting is the same but looks better. As far a “CG” goes, it works perfectly for the way I ride it.
@@aMotoheadsGarage it's Johnny nerd out 101.. come on man. Plus the lower. You can get the weight in the frame the better the bike is going to handle. Still looks like a blast though
I’m thinking about building my first e-bike and I’m currently searching everywhere for a good kit, would this be good for beginners? Also great video I love it!
These Bagang motors aren't cheap. If one has to buy a decent bicycle, from a decent manufacturer such as Trek, and this motor and battery, it will cost them around $2000.
Bafang gave me a real garbage experience. Very abrupt stressing the chain and cogs. And while ghost pedaling it's power is abrupt on/ off. Draining the battery. After 30 km the pedal clutch inside the motor already broke 💔
So many people make this mistake I guess they don't ride dirt bikes. You want the weight centered and low in the frame as you can get it. If you put it up hiGH it's Going to handle like craP. If you put it over the rear wheel like most people it will fishtail And throw you off the road. I mean to me it's all common sense, but obviously I see a lot of people Make this mistake over and over
I have so many people who make comments about how it will affect the handling but they are mistaken. I’m a life long MX racer and I can say that I enjoy the battery at its location. Because I’ve able to control the bike like a dirt bike and grab the bike with my knees. I wouldn’t put it above the rear wheel but having it where I do doesn’t make much of an impact, if any.
I'm planning on converting an older 26" Motobecane DS500 mtn bike. The battery will have to go on a rack in the back, but this bike will never be for mtn biking again anyway. I already have a clamp on rack for the seatpost. An Ebike is the only way I would ever go back to road biking, and it would be with an older friend that needs his Ebike to do what we used to do before. I would never Ebike on the trails. I don't like the motor kicking in just because I touch the pedals for a slight push over a rock or root. I could just shut the motor off, but then it would be dead weight, and I prefer to be the only dead weight on the bike thank you. LOL
You gotta get the programming. Smooths out the pedal-assist and throttle control. Feels kinda cheap without it, in my opinion. I own the 750w, 48v, mid-drive kit. Awesome on a Specialized Rockhopper.
These work great on classic twin triangle frames. Turn those old hardtails into the commuters and gravel bikes instead of spunking thousands on new models. Love the old FSR btw. Their seatpost issues are a pain though
Not good for a dropper post and you can't drop a long post as it hits the shock. My mate had one and took a long and short post with him so he could ride to the spot and then have more fun with the DH
you need to reprogram the controller with a usb programming cable (or get the Eggrider display). Stock programming is total crap. also you need a 42t dished chainring. You cannot go smaller, as you get a bad chainline on the large cogs in the rear. as for the tightenig of the bottom bracket lockrings, go as hard as you can and also add loctite, they will come loose. The best way to do it, is grind in the marks of the mounting plate so it fits snugly to the BB shell and will not eat itself into the BB with time (and get loose that way) The BBS02 motor is not for all frames, it will fit on frames that are made for tires up to 2.3" wide, bigger ones will require some spacers which worsen the chainline. Also, for a good build, you need to mount the battery in the frame triangle to keep the center of gravity low. that excludes most full suspension frames.
If you're into function more than form then kit is the way to go.. also is advisable to have a relationship with Electric bicycle mechanic.. what you got there is a good brand.. buyer should beware of junk.. pay the extra money to get a reputable brand.. bafang all right by me... has been a champ with my cargo bike
Put bafang 750watt mid drive on my old Giant Roam. Brilliant over 5200 km. It's great put gear shift sensor on that makes big difference plus use an Ebike Chain KMC our Shimano. Brilliant 😊
Part 2 is now out 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
ruclips.net/video/pyNW9EXB_zA/видео.html
I'm an old dirt biker and I have built 3 different mid-drive e-bikes now, one with Bafang and two with TongSheng. I have a few observations based on my experience... The Bafang is a powerful motor but the power delivery is an abrupt on or off. The throttle is good for starting off from an awkward position on the trail. You can "ghost pedal" with the Bafang while cruising and it will speed along at full power without the throttle... The TongSheng is a less powerful motor but the power delivery is more natural since it is a torque sensor motor. It varies power according to the amount of pressure you apply to the pedals. The revolution counter magnet on the wheel can be left off the TongSheng to eliminate that wiring. A tiny handlebar display is optional for the TongSheng. The motor is physically smaller...I found that the "dolphin" style batteries always end up needing to be strapped down with bungies since the narrow mounting rail is just holding the center of the battery. Mounting the battery high on the frame noticeably affects the bike handling. Shorter crank arms are a good option to keep pedal strikes down, but crank discipline still needs to be learned. I get about twenty miles offroad with a 14AH battery...Have fun! E-bikes are like magic!
I don't mind the throttle as I like to ride it like a MX bike but the abrupt power on pedal assist is strange. I have a programing cable coming to see if I can adjust that. As far as the high mount battery, it doesn't seem to effect the handling at all to me. I am actually able to grab with my knees like on an MX bike. I will look into the TongSheng motor and possible do a build with one too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage One nice thing about the Bafang is that you can buy a cable to attach to your motor and phone or computer to program the motor. Lots of options, including the time it takes the motor to kick in. Nice job on the modification for the battery.
@@mikehemen9708 stay tuned, I have a cable on the way.
@@mikehemen9708 You can go full throttle on TSDZ2 as well. The internal torque sensor makes your "less" power *more* usable and you end up with a net benefit that is tunable as well as better range, both due to smaller motor and better use of power/smoother curves because torque sensing.
I've used both of those motors and I totally agree with you on the differences between the two. My biggest issue with the TongSheng though is the mounting, it's just too low for real mountain bike riding.
Hey just wanted to let you know that I'm going to order things tonight and build My All out bike...they need to start sending you free stuff for demo and you should start selling thing's... thanks for the video brother..
I really appreciate it. To be honest, I’m not constant enough with my videos. I never post them “once a week” or anything. So that hurts my channel. But hearing how people like it (and sometimes hate it) really motivates me. Thanks.
Yeah bummer about the battery not fitting.. I would go with a fork rack? Rear doesn't look like much of an option if you do it right you can have the battery and panniers up front... would give you good attack.. the battery is too high the way it is it's not optimal for center of gravity.. although it's not a bad look it's kind of sporty and Moto
The best part is how much fun my buddies have making fun of it. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@aMotoheadsGarage is there a way to put a cool center stand on there? Kickstand is going to be everything with that top heavy arrangement., always arrange it thoughtfully.. bring some rope to tie it to something and don't get it tangled in the chain., you'll curse your eyes out and lose the house, and that ain't right. I got a handkerchief caught my derailleur once at 4:00 a.m. that wasn't nice , anyhow , You don't want it tipping over! bending the crank is the worst nightmare for those things.. lay it down like a baby.. I brought my local friend to meet my mechanic and he bought a fancy Cruiser with a high level kit like you got there? Brought it home and let his friend take a ride on it in the first 15 minutes laid it down hard, on Pavement, crank was bent.. and the hanger. I tried to warn him and everyone that it's going to be squirrely with those Cruiser handlebars.. urged him to switch them out but it was all about the look.. anyhow he fixed it for the big bucks and, still rides it with those same handlebars.. he's not so quick to offer his friends a ride
@@aMotoheadsGarage yeah maybe the answer is four telescoping kickstands.. with crampons
@@ExileTheKnightsOfMaltaNow Yeah, I just prop it up like I do my BMX bikes. I might have to look into a kickstand lol
Just did a 750w bbs02 on an old GT hard tail.... So much fun!
Nerd out rules!
I was thinking of trying it on one my BMX bike, lol.
I have a bafang hd motor for over 2 years now done over 14,000 miles and the motor has never skipped a beat .It just goes and goes .
Finally! An install video! Except you skipped the most important part... showing how the wires connect up :(. How is the bike holding up? Still working well? Any issues?
@@IdahoEagle77 it seems to be holding up fine. I can make an update video if people want it
@@aMotoheadsGarage definitely 👍
UGLY BUILDAND RAMSHACKLE BUT BY GOD IT RIDES FINE , GOOD JOB . I'm 74 and don't have transportation this is a low cost option so cool.
I installed a 750W Bafang on my Kona Stinky and I love it. I've taken it up some pretty steep trails here in Utah and it does great. I can go close to 30mph on flat ground, so that's fun too.
It completely changes MTB for me. I can ride and have fun, without suffering on the up hills.
@@aMotoheadsGarage My state has a problem with way too many very large mountains. The BBSHD going to kick their asses next year. Tested it up a 45% clime and it did it no problem.
@@Eric_Tennant Here in East Texas all the trails have more than 95% up hill it feels like, lol.
I want to try that on Kona Lava Dome - what battery and size / location did you use ??
@@KTB3007 I'm running a 52V 50AMP 10AH battery made from Samsung 21700. I got it at a local shop in West Jordan, UT called Electrify Bike Co. The Stinky has limited space in the triangle so I needed something smaller. You would likely be able to fit one of the Shark batteries in your triangle.
Top Tip: Add a bit of wide duck tape around the body of the motor to cover the seams where the motor body mounts to its side covers; this stops water ingress during wet weather which creeps in and ruins your day. (I have a similar conversion, hardtail old Diamond Back Ascent Ex; smaller battery and can, just, do a 40mile round trip without a recharge)
That’s a good idea. Maybe some thick vinyl tape.
I'll have to see if I could put a gasket there using the old "hammer" method for making gaskets. I'm pretty sure I still have a huge roll of that stuff kicking around. Thanks for the suggestion.
Beznadziejnie to wygląda.Ten rower,szczególnie geometria ramy nie nadaje się na konwersję.
I did this to my old Cannondale a couple of years ago. One thing you can do is double the number of pedal assist levels from 5 to 10 in the settings mode on the controller. By doing that you will only get 10% power on level 1 instead of the 20% you are getting now so it will not be as abrupt when starting off. The higher levels are for climbing hills, anything over level 2 or 3 and you will be ghost pedaling on level ground.
I’m going to piss a lot of MTB people off but I barely pedal at all. I use the throttle 99.99% of the time. I only pedal from the truck to the trailhead, so I get less dirty looks 😁
Get the programming cable. It will not only allow you to set what the pedal assist levels are, it can also set the throttle so it's always 0-100% power rather than 0-PAS level. I found the stock PAS 1 & 2 levels were too low for use, so I reset them for specific speeds (on flat ground). The throttle not connected to the PAS is really nice, especially when taking off from a red light or when climbing a hill and you realize you set the PAS too low.
@@ebikeengineer Yeah, going to do that for sure.
@@aMotoheadsGarage I ride the throttle past the cyclist and ring my bell as I come up behind them.
@@dalvenable331 That's great, lol
Had my bafang bbshd for about 2.5 years now and so far I've went through 3 chains and 2 freewheels. Has alot of power. I weigh about 230 bije weight with everything is about 80 pounds, and I can easily hit about 34 to 37 mph. Also have a pair of continental road tires at 2.2 width. Only thing I regret was not going with a 52v system. I went with the 48v 24.5ah battery. But I get about 56 miles on throttle only with excellent conditions. I commute to work everyday total of 26 miles both ways and I freaking love it.
I was going to replace the chain with a HD chain if I can find one.
@@aMotoheadsGarage KMC E-series ebike chains. E1 for single speed bikes. E8-E12 for 8-12speed bikes. Heavier duty
Also. Invest in a Park Tools brand chain stretch measurement tool. Check regularly and replace chains at 0.65 or so. Don’t wait for 0.75. Once chains reach 0.75 the cassette will also possibly need replacement. If matching a new chain with a worn cassette the chain will skip and possibly break the chain and cassette teeth.
Also. Releasing pedal effort slightly while shifting and gently allowing the gears to slip to the next gear (even with the gear sensor) will prolong drivetrain life. Think of it as easing on the dirt bike throttle when shifting.
still cost a total of 800 euro
Been running my bafang bbso2 with a 52v 14ah battery for about 5 months now. We made her a single speed to make it unbreakable and this baby is smooth, I will always rec that people build there own. If something goes wrong, instead of filing a support ticket and being SOL for a while, you can fix the bike yourself. That most prebuilts are lacking in a category or two, where as you can get the full package if you go custom.
I enjoyed it so much, I might build a few more 😂
I have a shimano nexus 8 speed hub in the rear, if you want gears these hubs are really good
@@andyb7963 is that the internal geared hub?
That's a terrible place to mount the battery.
Under the down tube would have been better.
You are absolutely right, but it wouldn’t fit. It turned out not as bad though. When on the trail, I can grip the bike with my knees like a dirtbike. So kind of a happy accident.
That's what I thought too.
That's what I did to mine and it gives a nice low centre of gravity and is out of the way. In my case it was possible to position it directly above the motor running up the frame so that the front wheel/suspension still couldn't hit it.
@@medhurstt yeah, unfortunately this frame doesn’t allow that to work. But, because I’m riding it like a dirtbike, it actually helps me stay connected to the bike. Plus help me train to squeeze with my knees for racing motocross.
@@aMotoheadsGarage It looks like it'd fit reasonably comfortably although you still have the problem of the bend in the frame. Did the front wheel get in the way under full compression of the forks? Mine didn't fortunately.
this was a great video - you may have approached things a bit differently than I would have but I appreciate how you explained your thought process and gave such a detailed breakdown.
Thanks. Did you happen to see the next video where I “upgrade” the bike? I give a little bit more detail on my thoughts after owning it and the design.
Still too expensive for me to take the dip ,I'm powered by coffee and bacon buttys until the price comes down
You can get a 36 mph bike for like 1100 to 1600 (max)😊
New sub here thanks for the uploads but you chose the wrong frame a smaller battery could go underneath and have a lower centre of gravity.
YOU USED THE WRONG BIKE - I LOVE MY 750 WATT KIT - MAKES YOU FEEL LIKE A KID AGAIN
Good bike for $200. If you could build a U shaped split battery 🔋 case where each side woukd hang over the main front tube. Would be perfect 👌 better looks & lower center of weight gravity.
You have a 22 year old USED electric mountain bike.
What would the cost be if you used a NEW QUALITY BIKE instead of a used one?
Otherwise you are comparing grapes to watermelons.
Great build though.
I think it’s more about showing people that it’s possible to at least get into the sport. Or add the motor to their bike. I have a full test coming with buddies who have modern mountain bikes.
@@aMotoheadsGarage I said it was a great build. If you used a new bike it would have made the pricing more realistic.
As you say with someone with a bike
it was a good example.
I did the same with the 750 fang mid drive, 46t lekkie chainring and the 52v jumbo batt Donor bike is my Trek 4300 4Series mtb. I can hit 40.8 max speed full charge of 58.9v (While peddling my ass off ) on a smooth street. Bike weighs in at 55 lbs now which is still light when compared to others. Everything other them frame and shocks are new Shimano Deore/XT. If you buy the programing cable you can set performance as you wish.. just don't crank the amps up to far as you may fry your controller... and you should throw your parts on a larger donor bike with better shocks.. that one is to small for you 💁
Isn’t the bottom bracket too long for the 750 mid drive?
@@michaeldonohue1957 i've had no issues
I was lucky first shot mounting my BBS02 after pulling out my 20 year old bike from the shed. Also have a 52V battery. My changes are as follows: 54T front and 34/11 rear so no more ghost pedaling, yet still ok for steep hills. Also hacked the software with Luna to adapt the assist levels to my taste. This was overall a highly rewarding project and recommend it to all. (Btw, with the 52V, I get approx. 80 miles on flat roads with reasonable assist levels)
How big is your battery? 52v 30ah? 60ah?
I have a paratrooper bike i don't want to let go. Trying to figure where i would put that battery.
He never said what motor and battery size he bought. Battery location is not ideal as it places all that weight up high.
To OP there is a programming cable available for your setup that allows dialing in all sorts for characteristics of the motor system.
I got 750w motor and 52v / 19.2Ah battery
YES, YOU CAN A VERY RELIABLE ONE WITH 2297 MILES ON IT SO FAR.
My dad converted his old steel MTB with a mid drive Bafang kit last year. We also noticed the abrupt ‘on off’ peer delivery and didn’t how it rode. I then bought the cable and I tweaked all the settings until we were happy with it. It eliminated the jerky throttle behaviour and even improved the distance on a charge. It can reach over 30mph on the flat too!
I'm really looking forward to programing this thing.
Just starting your Video. The main shaft has bearings, Bafang says 50-60 Nm, but this is not tight enough usually. 80Nm is max, withoutbputting to much strain on the bearings, lock thight will do the rest.
Dude, I saw you on TFL doing their course in your 2dr Bronco MT. I got the same Badlands on 33s with the 7spd. Now here I am finding you rocking the Bafang I'm about to build myself. I'll stay tuned. Good work buddy.
Thanks. I do a bunch of random things and I hope people enjoy riding along.
Battery placement like a lot of the build is the Mutha Of Necessity. and battery weight matters as much as placement. I have found 36 volts is a really fine battery though all my personal bikes are 48 volts. 36 Volt on my wife's Voilamart 1000 watt cruiser keeps up with most my bikes and even out runs some of my 48's, it is far lighter than 48 volt batteries especially when you want longer range you need something like 20 ah 1000w well a 36 volt will weigh far less and will be smaller in size so easier to hang on the frame . You may lose a mile an hour from 48 to 36 in some cases with direct drives but mid drives and planetary geared hubs run great on them and generally you can set the battery lever in your handlebar controller.
I'm thinking of another build with a smaller battery.
@19:30 what music is that?? Anyone know?
I think I found it on a sight for royalty free music.
@@aMotoheadsGarageah, thanks for the quick reply. If you happen to have a link in future, please share :)
kicked it around, i just said F it and Bought a cyberbike 2k
Very informative video! Does the motor have a torque sensor or a cadence sensor?
It's a cadence sensor. I have plans for a test on a Torque sensing motor soon.
@@aMotoheadsGarage alright thanks!
Can't go wrong with a Bafang BBS motor. Especially if you're a DIY'r. I've built 3 now(1 HD and 2 02's). Two are mine, one Road rocket that's HD powered on a 52v battery, controller reprogrammed to give 100% @ full throttle no matter what the PAS is set to. It'll cruise at 40mph in top gear, it's kind of scary. 6500 miles on it so far. 2nd one is Schwinn Axum MTB(hard tail) that's BBS02 powered on a 48v battery. The most recent 02 build was a Birthday gift for my God daughter.
By the way, the space between the mounting plate and the motor where you stacked washers is usually always a 5mm gap if your bottom bracket is a standard 68mm BSA. Or a 6mm gap on PF30 bottom brackets after you get the proper adapter in there since all BBS's require the BSA standard.
Can you help me build mine? I have voodoo bizanko bike 🚲.Are you in uk I can reach you out
A battery half that size with 250 watt motor on a road bike would be good for 50-70 miles judging from the experience of other riders I have ridden with. Off road mileage is harder to compare as generally the speeds are a lot lower unless you are downhilling or on a flat non-technical course and most ATB courses are at most 10-15 miles so double track/gravel is needed for longer mileage without beating you up from rocks and roots.
I think my MTB trail test will have to be a multiple day test lol. It below freezing here in Texas and that’s not a fair test for the battery. New videos about the bike coming as soon as it warms up a bit 🥶
I want to put a kit on a fat bike
A full suspension Fat Bike would be fun with a throttle.
You’re going to bust your balls on a battery pack.
I don’t think you’ll impress your friends with that contraption, but let’s keep watching 😂
With the temps around 110° right now in Texas, we are waiting for a break in the heat for a big test day lol
Me and John disagree on a few things, but agree on much more. Check out my Trek with a bafang, looks little better to the eyes.
I looks amazing. I subscribed to your channel.
@@aMotoheadsGarage Nice. Good to have an other Bafang user. Had to balance my channel out a bit because I'm backing a lot of g-bikers.
@@Eric_Tennant G-Bikers?
@@aMotoheadsGarage Gas Bike mods
I got a BBS02. Just tested it for about 60 miles. Apart from the problem that I have to restrict it to 19 Amps @ 48 Volts because my battery turns off if I draw more. I also have a bike with a el cheapo Chinese 1000W rear direct drive hub motor and compared to this I'm absolutely not impressed with the BBS02. While the Hub Motor goes about 30mph with 19 Amps drawn from the battery the Bafang only makes 25 mph max with the same 19 Amps. In both cases I pedal and help to get to the speed, my guess is that my own power equals to 100-150W. Longest gear ratio is about the same in both bikes and at 30mph i pedal with a cadence of 80 per minute, which ist doable and comfortable but the bafang just does not deliver the same power with 19 Amps @ 48V like the Hub Motor does.
The stepest hill I have done so far is done by the hub motor with about 7 mph (still with my biological 100W). Although the Bafang uses the gear ratio it does the hill only minimal better. Seems I spend more money on the bafang for less power and efficiency then on the hub motor.
I can easily get 45mph.
Just a suggestion. You can buy a seatpost mounted rear rack. There are many, many different models to choose from. I n my opinion your current battery would fit nicely on one and look much better and if you slide forward off the seat accidentally your bits wouldn't slam into the battery. Just a thought.
Yeah, being a motocross rider, the battery actually gives me a place to grab with my knees. Like you do on a dirtbike. So it’s kind of a happy accident 🤷🏻♂️.
That is the worst place you can mount a battery is To put way over the rear tire is going to make the entire thing handle like trash. So many people make this mistake it's laughable. Any two wheeled vehicle you want the weight center and as low in the frame as possible.
Ebikes don't have sensors on the brakes, not even the expensive ones like mine! Heck, I've never seen that before on an EMTB! I'd remove that! Four-piston hydraulics with 203mm discs, Shimano XT Bosch mid-drive definitely don't have anything hooked to the brakes. The system is fully controllable in the settings. Torque settings start at 10Nm and can be adjusted all the way down. The step-on takeoff can be fully adjusted each way, but I'd never build one that's dangerous and ugly your mates just take the mick but jokes aside these old bikes aren't built to take the punishment the geometry is all off to for what the mid drives are programed for! Maybe better with a hub drive with this old FSR
@@Emtbtoday I sounds like you are WAY more extreme on MTB than me lol. If I want to go hard, I’m riding one of my dirtbikes. This is for me to just play around with on the trail. And 100% because pedaling is dumb 🤣
and BTW, you did great at holding your tongue on TFL. I would have given him some unexpected content.
😂
my mate plans on a MORE EFFICIENT ENERGY USE.
AXLE STANDS ON HIS WIFE'S BIKE and an alternator and pulley connected by belt to bare rear rim.
a cable to his tesla and after she cycles 90 hours
he can drive to work.
🤣🤣🤣
You’ll also find that it’s nice taking the bike out on good days sometimes. No noise just chilling on a good day driving down to the store. Another upside of a ebike to me
It has just added so much fun to a MTB ride. AND I've only rode it once.
I was wondering how pedalling felt when there was no power. Does the electric motor give a little resistance or does it feel like the cranks are turning freely? I'm not concerned about the extra weight.
I've test ridden a Giant Talon E + 1 and I'm really impressed at how it feels like a really good mountain bike with the power off. The lack of friction is amazing.
There's nowhere in the world where I can test-ride an e-bike with a mid-drive Bafang motor, though.
Your info all together and item purchase info as well has been super helpful. Thank you. I've watched so many videos and yours has been absolutely the most informative. So informative that it gives me the confidence I needed for purchase. Bafang should pay YOU!
Thanks!! I really appreciate that. Hopefully you subscribe and enjoy the content
Did this bafang to my Kona ute.. has been Workhorse for years.. been pulling a four wheel farm wagon framed chloroplast camper utility vehicle on a class one hitch, for shopping and Adventures.. it's a new niche.. to get around Rome's roads with less rules and cost
That's awesome. Would love to see that.
With peddle assist mode, and some programming, limit output to 250w. You'll get well over 100 miles on it, likely around 120. And you'll get around 60 miles with out peddling. That battery is huge, it likely will go much further than my numbers.
I’m not really going to ride it much on the street.
I didnt like using bafang. You cant really help pedal when its running.
And if you ride on higher gears it also spins faster than you. So basically a scooter.
@@-Gunnarsson- I’m guessing that is why I love it lol
Also i got my full kit from jhonnynerdout, he had a full consultation with me to see my bike and talk about what I need to order. Without Johnny i would not have my ebike. Thanks for making this vid, it would've helped when i was building mine lol!
Did you have to do one of those prepaid consultations with Johnny to get purchase information?
Yeah because when I went to order from him it never asked if I want 100mm only had up to 73 mm according to his site and I couldn't find a way to ask him about it without paying 20 bucks
I don't like cadence sensors for speed...but you can customize the software for each level of 'assistance'...
I basically have the pedal assist turned off and I use the throttle.
I don't understand the mid drive, I mean yes it makes it easier to climb and its balanced better than a hub motor, that's the main draw, but you're not going to go any faster than you would on a normal / acoustic mountain bike and you're adding weight.
And if the place you're riding downhill has a lift you're not worried about climbing up the trail anyways.
I'd rather just ride my hardtail.
It also has to do with unsprung weight.
Check out some of the 10AH under seat batteries. I get 25 miles out of mine with juice to spare, more than a enough for a day on the trail.
@@MrDiMaggio5 that’s a good idea
Good lord I hope over the past year you have learned something about video encoding...I want to watch but damn, it looks like it was recorded on betamax then sat on a speaker magnet for a year.
@@TAGSlays I hope so too lol. I had personal stuff this summer and couldn’t film but watched one of my last videos and let me know what you think 🙏🏽.
Change the wheel size down to trick the system to let you go faster. Also reprogram the system to give you power by percentage instead of 100 percent on low levels to a speed like it’s set up.
I’ll look into that
I also ride single track with my dirt bike every weekend just moved to a area with some sweet mtb trails in Charlottesville I'm all in on the bafang I planned on the big battery will the smaller battery give me less power or just less range ?thanks for the video .I think we are on the same mind set dirtbiker first everything else is to just prepare for dirtbike riding days
The battery “size” is about range. The battery voltage is more about power. I definitely think the 20ah battery is way more than needed for this lol. I believe a 17ah would have been more than enough. I’ll be doing a range test soon.
the first thing to be done with bafang mid drives is rip the controller out and put a sabvoton or kelly unit in with 72 volts
Better than VESC?
Why didn’t you just buy a cheap motorbike if you want a motorbike? That thing looks goofy
I have dirtbikes, but I can’t ride them on the MTB trails and they would destroy the trails. This is the best of both worlds. And the battery on top actually helps with riding as it give me something to grip with my knees. Plus, you are right, it looks goofy 🤪
i have a tongsheng as well and can only get two assist levels using the 850c for some reason, the low assist level has to much assist power... and jumps out where i lose control on single track,.... need to lower assist level/power.
I haven’t tried one.
What was bofang thinking makeing there motor housing out of magnisam if it over heats or sparks really hot fire water will not put it out.???????
I definitely think that the worry of a magnesium on parts are over exaggerated. Yes magnesium can catch fire easily in dust form, but it takes more than heat to set off a cast piece.
It had that display. It's not water proof. Only lasted one summer due to water damage.
That’s good to know, thanks.
$800 is considered cheap for motor and lithium battery? 😮
Yep
I went with TongShen TSDZ2 for my fat tad CSX upgrade but now I need to upgrade to belt drive as I'm breaking chains all the time now.
I'm also building a rear wheel with an Enviolo CVT hub that should allow for better power transfer and smooth gear ratio adjustments. That would stop some of the breakage but standard bike chain just stretches with a mid drive so it's always going to be weak; instead of spending the money to upgrade my entire chain drive, including sprockets, etc, removing the external rear cassette + chain and adding belt + IGH will make zero maintenance bulletproof drivetrain.
I get full air on the BMX track and I have no trouble getting up into the bowls at the skate park but every time I land the thing or go over a cement lip it smashes the idler pulleys off - that's the final add is a skid plate to keep from destroying the belt pulleys until I can somehow move them above the frame.
I didn’t realize it had that much power
It’s not the right bike. Impossible to drive with this battery on top. Besides a smaller battery would do.
How is it impossible? Did you watch my next video about it?
Great stuff just in time for me to do some research into doing this before spring since I bought a £220 mountain bike and I aim to fit a mid drive kit. However my frame is kinked by design so mounting the battery is going to be difficult. So i'm looking for a luggage rack that fits onto the swing arm which i've found one but I haven't found another at the moment. I'm only adding a motor just so I can commute to and from work a little easier so I shouldn't need a massive battery pack like that just a slightly slim one.
The awesome thing is, they make them all different shapes and sizes. So you might find one to fit. Just don’t be like me, measure the area more than once. And maybe use a tape and not just your eyeball 🤣🤣
Nice video I got the same kit from JNO same price but the sticker states 250W BBSO1B he swears the max output is 750 W also kit came with a 48v-10 ah battery.
Mine has 750w stickers but some places don’t allow anything larger than 250w. So you are kinda running a big bore 🤣🤣
@@aMotoheadsGarageMy sticker said 250w can you verify your motor model ?
If it isn't compatible with ur bike that's not an issue as u just take the motor out and everything to do with it and put it on a more compatable bike
You should definitely watch episode 2
Lost me at mounting that huge battery with such a high center of gravity and terrible look.
lol I get it. Definitely watch the 2nd video. Battery mounting is the same but looks better. As far a “CG” goes, it works perfectly for the way I ride it.
He needs to pick the right frame unless you build a costume battery .
Definitely watch part 2, I go over it more.
I think you should have paid the extra money and bought an eMTB!
But they are way higher of a price and don’t have throttles.
ebikes are crazy expensive
Thanks for the video. Shame the bike's undersized.
Definitely watch the next video about the bike. Because you are definitely right.
Correction sir, the controller is actually fitted within the motor, btw its a motor not an engine
True, that’s why I call my race bike an enginecycle 😂😂. My friends think I’m dumb 😁
Battery placement looks dangerous for your nuts? 🤣
No different than a motorcycle fuel tank 🤷🏿♂️
Looks great. Until you try and clear your first log...
It shocks me how many people didn’t watch the next video.
I see you have the nut cracker 3000 Battery there, good choice 🤔🤣😂
As a dirtbike rider, it doesn’t bother me that all.
That frame style type you avoid for e-bike conversions. I wouldn't want that Chinese battery pack that close to my junk
I don’t mind living life on the edge 🤣
@@aMotoheadsGarage it's Johnny nerd out 101.. come on man. Plus the lower. You can get the weight in the frame the better the bike is going to handle. Still looks like a blast though
@@theejoeylee Yeah, I think I might be letting Johnny down.😞
YES you can!
I’m thinking about building my first e-bike and I’m currently searching everywhere for a good kit, would this be good for beginners? Also great video I love it!
Yes, it’s very simple and complete. A lots of online resources to help too.
@@aMotoheadsGarage thank you so much!
great video. easy to watch and informative
@@user-qx1gj4uk2o thanks. In a world of people always telling people what they did wrong, I seem to have great viewers. Very helpful and supportive.
Wow. Take your time
These Bagang motors aren't cheap. If one has to buy a decent bicycle, from a decent manufacturer such as Trek, and this motor and battery, it will cost them around $2000.
I’ve upgraded the bike and have a new video coming out with a price total.
@@aMotoheadsGarage Great, thanks. I am interested to see what the final cost was.
Bafang gave me a real garbage experience. Very abrupt stressing the chain and cogs. And while ghost pedaling it's power is abrupt on/ off. Draining the battery. After 30 km the pedal clutch inside the motor already broke 💔
That sucks. I hope I didn’t waste my money but so far so good.
@@aMotoheadsGarage meanwhile the rattle mechanism broke from the crankcase
So many people make this mistake I guess they don't ride dirt bikes. You want the weight centered and low in the frame as you can get it. If you put it up hiGH it's Going to handle like craP. If you put it over the rear wheel like most people it will fishtail And throw you off the road. I mean to me it's all common sense, but obviously I see a lot of people Make this mistake over and over
I have so many people who make comments about how it will affect the handling but they are mistaken. I’m a life long MX racer and I can say that I enjoy the battery at its location. Because I’ve able to control the bike like a dirt bike and grab the bike with my knees. I wouldn’t put it above the rear wheel but having it where I do doesn’t make much of an impact, if any.
Make sure to watch part two for more information.
So, no you can't build an affordable e mountain bike.
Yes you can, I’ve had a bunch going on at my normal job and hadn’t been able to shoot the next video. But a bike update video is coming.
I'm planning on converting an older 26" Motobecane DS500 mtn bike. The battery will have to go on a rack in the back, but this bike will never be for mtn biking again anyway. I already have a clamp on rack for the seatpost. An Ebike is the only way I would ever go back to road biking, and it would be with an older friend that needs his Ebike to do what we used to do before. I would never Ebike on the trails. I don't like the motor kicking in just because I touch the pedals for a slight push over a rock or root. I could just shut the motor off, but then it would be dead weight, and I prefer to be the only dead weight on the bike thank you. LOL
I have the BBSHD and it keept going for 3 years and almost 25000 km so far with only 1 service.
Sure has some flaws but for the price it´s awesome.
Nice review...Thanks
Thanks, did you see the update video?
Rear shock will ruin performance
???
You gotta get the programming. Smooths out the pedal-assist and throttle control. Feels kinda cheap without it, in my opinion. I own the 750w, 48v, mid-drive kit. Awesome on a Specialized Rockhopper.
These work great on classic twin triangle frames. Turn those old hardtails into the commuters and gravel bikes instead of spunking thousands on new models.
Love the old FSR btw. Their seatpost issues are a pain though
Seatpost issues?
Not good for a dropper post and you can't drop a long post as it hits the shock.
My mate had one and took a long and short post with him so he could ride to the spot and then have more fun with the DH
@@sweetchariotengland I have a fix coming soon. Next video will be in production next week 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
I'm about to order the bafang 750w mid drive motor, how do I know when chain size to order ?
you need to reprogram the controller with a usb programming cable (or get the Eggrider display). Stock programming is total crap. also you need a 42t dished chainring. You cannot go smaller, as you get a bad chainline on the large cogs in the rear.
as for the tightenig of the bottom bracket lockrings, go as hard as you can and also add loctite, they will come loose. The best way to do it, is grind in the marks of the mounting plate so it fits snugly to the BB shell and will not eat itself into the BB with time (and get loose that way)
The BBS02 motor is not for all frames, it will fit on frames that are made for tires up to 2.3" wide, bigger ones will require some spacers which worsen the chainline. Also, for a good build, you need to mount the battery in the frame triangle to keep the center of gravity low. that excludes most full suspension frames.
If you're into function more than form then kit is the way to go.. also is advisable to have a relationship with Electric bicycle mechanic.. what you got there is a good brand.. buyer should beware of junk.. pay the extra money to get a reputable brand.. bafang all right by me... has been a champ with my cargo bike
Having two smaller batteries? Not a bad way to go.. that way you're not carrying the extra bulk and weight, unnecessarily
Whare do I get a Bafag mid- drive kit?
I got mine from the Jungle Site
thanks!!! you have a new sub here!!
Thanks. I hope you enjoy the random stuff I do.
Hell yea bro 😎
Put bafang 750watt mid drive on my old Giant Roam.
Brilliant over 5200 km.
It's great put gear shift sensor on that makes big difference plus use an Ebike Chain KMC our Shimano. Brilliant 😊
I didn’t realize that companies were making “E-bike” chains now. That’s cool.
Would this unit work on a simple cruiser schwin bike?
Absolutely, I bet it would run forever on a charge.
@@aMotoheadsGarage thanks so much.