How to Set Points Using Feeler Gauges Vintage Outboard Motors 1961 10 HP Johnson
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
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Much appreciate this video sir. I would be lost without your videos for reference
Well done sir! This is the BEST video on how to set Evinrude/Johnson points! Thank you for doing this. And one small correction. .020" is twenty thousandths of an inch.
Great video - the gap is actually 20 thousandths - [.020] 2 thousandths would be .002
I am happy to have come across your video.
I have 2 '59 10 hp Johnson outboards.
One is in great original condition with only about 25 hours total on the motor.
In total I have 5 outboards and chances are they will need some attention at some time.
I want to thank you in advance for the help you will be providing me and my vintage outboards.
I also sell the parts.
This video finally solves a problem that I have had. Thanks again Mike!
I've watched quite a few of your videos. You have a solid knowledge of outboard engines. I find them very helpful. Keep up the great work. By the way .020 is twenty thousandths.
Thanks a lot, Mike! :)
It confirmed what I was thinking. No need for a timing tool complicated dicking around on it. Just like any old motor with points...adjust them at the TDC and that's it.
I saw another video showing a 40 $ timing tool which is no more than a piece of metal bent 90 degrees on both ends and ground to a point...oh and a bushing in it with a keyway. Your method will work on my Johnson Seahorse 3 HP (1964) and my Evinrude Sport Twin (1970).
1975 6hp Johnson. Never checked coils, wires or set points before but now I did it once. Motor is running great. Thanks man
Tip I just realized, you can move the throttle advance knob back and forth to get on the top lob mark if you’re already close. You can also reinsert the flywheel and turn it clockwise to get you close instead of a ratchet. You can remove spark plug and confirm, at full throttle your cylinder should be at top dead center and your lob should be right on the top mark with a points gap of .020. Thanks for all the help T Mike, this video is very informative and I’ve grown to love saving these old motors. 🇺🇸
I bought the timing tool ,but this method was easier for me. Rewatching this video made me realize I need to tuck away all my wires. Thanks t-mike! Your videos are very helpful. I'm working on a '63 Evinrude Ducktwin 3hp.
T-Mike,
Would you consider doing a similar educational video on a 76 9.9 Johnson? The coils for each cylinder are external with a driver coil feeding them from underneath the flywheel feeding them is what I have been told . This was a great video. Thx.
Great video and very informative. I have just started to get my dad's KG7 on the water again. It's on a mini wooden boat that he built. I will be pulling the flywheel this weekend.
Well, I just subbed to your channel. Got a 1952 Johnson Seahorse 10HP a few months ago. Couldn't figure out why the darn flywheel wasn't coming off. After using a tie-down strap and a socket wrench, u finally got it. Boy was it stuck.
I'm definitely learning everything I can about my motor from you. Thanks and keep them coming.
Thanks T-Mike, your videos are very helpful.
Thank you, thank you, thank you...'69 4hp Johnson weedless, didn't have fire. Checked coils, condensers wires etc. also watching your videos. Got out this morning dug out old feeler gauge and viola we got fire!
Enjoy watching your videos. Trying to restore a 1973 2hp Johnson rebuilt the carburetor and got it to run. Was running rough so replaced coil,points ,condenser and spark plug wire with the help of your videos. But now I can’t get it to spark. Don’t know what I’m doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated.
So helpful thank you. 3hp Evinrude I found in the garbage runs like a top now!!! Was struggling!!
Excellent video. I really appreciate your educational efforts.
My question is, When I put the timing tool between the the two marks on the magneto plate my points wiper is not on the top arrow mark on the cam. Which mark should I go by?
Great video T Mike. Is the magneto cam supposed to compress a spring until it locks on the woodruff key? I can’t get mine to lock. Any tips? Thanks. Jack T
Yes that was a bad design - just have to work the cam down passed the points and slip flywheel down - it’s tricky.
Hey T-Mike! I've got a 1986 Suzuki DT2 2 hp 2 stroke and was getting weak spark and wrecked the coil and points when removing the rotor (lessons learned..). I'm having a terrible time finding OEM replacements and was curious if you had any means for retrofitting something more modern. I've seen the points to CDI but haven't found a solution for the oddly shaped ignition coil. I figure proximity to the rotor is pretty critical? Thanks in advance!
Sorry can’t help. I only work on OMC - Good luck
Do I set the points with the throttle closed or open? I know that the throttle advances the timing as you rotate the the throttle but I’m not sure where to set it while setting the points.
FYI. .200 is two hundred thousands, .020 is twenty thousands and .002 is two thousands.
PS very happy you posted this one. I am just in the process of setting the points on a 67 Evinrude 3hp.
It's not very intuitive, but it doesn't matter how you set the throttle.
If you set the points correctly at the highest cam mark, and then rotate the throttle the points will obviously close, BUT also the point wiper will no longer be at the top cam position, so it's OK that the points are closed/in different position than when you were setting them. If you now rotate the shaft so that the point wiper is again aligned with the top cam mark (without changing the throttle position) the points will again open, they'll go back to the exact setting you set them on. The only thing that matters here is that the points open in the correct position regarding the cam. The points need only be aligned with the cam, that's the only thing that matters.
The throttle does then advance the timing but it does so with relation to the piston stroke position i.e. points will open when the piston is in a different position, but they will still open when the point wiper is at the highest cam point. By moving the throttle you're just changing where this highest cam point is opening the points in relation to piston stroke.
I had a hard time figuring this out, as everyone just says the throttle position doesn't matter but fail to explain exactly why, hope my explanation helps ;)
mike, rebuilt the magnito group and went to put the flywheel back on and as soon as i torque the bolt down the throttle and flywheel stick together. did i lose something while removing everything? thanks
T-Mike can you uses a condenser from a 74 25hp on a 74 15hp went all these motor share same parts?
Yes
Love your videos! Bought a 1957 Johnson sea horse 3hp. About 10 years ago from an old gentleman who took great care of it. Ran it for many years but recently have had issues with the engine running very rough especially at high rpms. I went through the carb. And replaced the points and plug wires,plugs, condensers and coils. Also all new gaskets including the head gasket. When I removed the tiller handle there are 2 screws that not only hold it in place but also seal the exhaust gasses and send the gasses down towards the prop. When these screws were removed I noticed water spraying out of the screw holes. Does this mean I have water entering the cylinder somewhere and maybe causing the engine to run rough? or is it normal to see water there? Thanks for any Ideas!
No your fine. Exhaust chamber can have water - is the motor overheating ? Should not be over 165 degrees
No overheating to my knowledge.. Engine ran good after new points, condensers, plugs and coils but the other day it started to sputter real bad and I thought I was in for a workout rowing home but managed to limp it back. Now I’m going through all the T-Mikes videos to troubleshoot it!
Wow, that's beautiful, what financing do you offer?
Much appreciated for this guide.
What should the throttle be set at while set the points gap? Open or closed/idle? I ask as it changes the gap...
WOT - Wide Open Throttle
This is really value adding video - Explained well. Thanks 😊
Thanks for the video T-Mike. Can you make a video showing how to add a kill switch to a point and condenser ignition?
Could you put the feeler gauge between the points, adjust the oblong (eccentric) screw until the points barely rub the feeler gauge and then tighten it? Or does the method in the video give you a better result? I love your video's btw, super helpful and educational! Keep them coming!
Either coil could face you how did you determine cylinder 1 and 2 ?
I don't think it matters but just asking,
Great easy to follow video.
Notice he said, “while facing the motor, as if you’re going to start it”. Think of sitting in your boat, about to pull the rope…the coil close to you is #1 (top), cylinder.
Hi T mikes I have a 1986 Yamaha outboard 12A 2 stroke an i don’t have fire have two new coil I need your help
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Hi Mike, your videos are brilliant to learn from! I have a question about the cam and the word 'TOP' and the arrow please. On my motor the cam is actually most oblong between the 'O' and 'P' and not where the arrow is. So, if I line up the felt wiper on the point with the arrow and set the gap to 0.020", it actually opens up a bit more in between the 'O' and 'P'. Should I set the 0.020" in between those two letters instead of the arrow? Thanks.
It is not that critical - after setting does your motor run well?
@@michaeljsimon Thanks for your quick reply T-Mike! :) I haven't tried yet as i am waiting on a new coil. I have watched you do the timing tool one too but when my flywheel scribe mark lines up in between the 2 close scribe marks on the magneto, the cam is in a different spot. It's not at the most oblong part, so not as confident doing it that way (unless I am missing something).
@@michaeljsimon Hi T-Mike, finally got round to completing my 1969 4hp with new coils, carby kit & impeller. It runs very well setting the 0.020" gap in between the 'O' and 'P' (most oblong section of my cam). My new coils were aftermarket and using my Fluke 177 multimeter one read 9.69K ohms for secondary circuit which is within 10k, as you say, however the other read 13.37K ohms. Have you seen such a high reading before on a new coil? Primary coil circuit was 1.7 and 2.3 ohms respectively. Thanks for all your help here!
It’s not that critical - set it on the “O” and go for it.
@@michaeljsimon Thanks Mike. You were spot on 👍
Any thoughts on whether you've seen secondary coil readings as high as 13k ohms? Cheers
Great video! How do you know when the points should be replaced ?
No need to replace unless motor starts to misfire.
To add to what Mike said, you can see a pit on the points if you take them off the plate.
I have no spark but all the ohms readings are correct, I do have 4 red wires though one from each coil and two more coming from underneath the armeture then 2 black from the condensers.
ruclips.net/video/gEOISADZEhs/видео.html
My engine does not have this “cam” with the words “top” on it to go by…. What can I do?
@@KarpucMotoring the highest spot
@@michaeljsimon ok got it, after cleaning it up I can tell the high point now. Thank you for your response. Your channel is so helpful. Thank you for what you do
You are a Awesome Cajun!
This is great
Thank you!
Thankyou!
Metric system...0,5 mm...correct?
Ciao dall' Italia 👋
Do I loosen the anchor bolt then set the points.
Yes
I have a 1960 10hp Evinrude Sportwin I changed the points and when I turn the adjustment screw the whole points move they don't open any ideas of what could be wrong?
Tighten the holding screw. If still won’t open bend the base with long nose to give proper clearance.
Bend it which way? The whole assembly moves both sides of the points at the same time
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until magneto can is at high point and bend until .020 gap.
Thanks Mike great video
I think you show widest opening point wrong, its widest when scrubber is pointing O-letter for sure.
Great vid.
WERE SHOULD THE THROTTLE TURN TO FAST START SLOW WHEN SETTING POINTS ^
Fast
@@michaeljsimon THANKS
Thank you
Front coil is top spark plug, back coil is bottom spark plug ( B = B) ( back = bottom) thanks
I believe you meant 20 thousands 0.020".
Appreciate ya Mr. Mike!
+96
Have you ever successfully converted to electronic ignition
Never
Can setting the points be done without the timing tool
LIKE VIDEO BUT WHEN I REMOVE FLY WHEEL THE PLATE THAT THE COIL AND POINTS ARE ATTCH TO MOVES BACK AND FORTH IS THE SUPPOSE TO HAPPEN GET SPARK THEN NO SPARK
I’d have to see it. Can u text me a video of it to 337-278-5429 ?
Hello, I am from Tunisia and I have the same engine, but it does not work and makes pops. I have a fault in the electricity. Please help me
ruclips.net/video/_p_QoBQ1gYI/видео.html
@@michaeljsimonthank you I have a coil problem
👍👍👍
That is 20 thousands .020, not 2 thousands .002.