This was a great tutorial. I just used it to replace both my front strut assemblies. However, after going through the first I did not find it necessary to remove the axle to complete this task... I would definitely recommend skipping that step. Makes the job a lot easier.
Thanks for the upload. I just did this job and found driveshaft removal is not necessary. I just undid upper ball joint and swung the assembly back a little.
You do not have to remove the axle, tie rod or the knuckle to get the strut out. All you need is the right tools and a pry bar and you can take the old one out and put the new on in. No wonder shops charge so much for labor because of all the unnecessary removal of other parts. All you need to to do it remove the top 3 bolts and the lower bolt, use a pry bar to get the old one out and use a pry bar to get the new one in and you're done
You could make an update telling viewers you ONLY need to remove the tie rod to reolace the struts....... just s thought to save people hours of work im sure they would be more inclined to support your brand if you dont cause them hours of labor thats not needed
+That_Ford _Guy Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
Only reason for removing sway bar link and axle is because they replaced them with new ones. A quick disclaimer as beginning of video would clear up a lot of confusion for people.
I just watched another video that didn't do half of this disassembly - just the outer tie rod, strut bolt at the bottom and three nuts on top. On the other hand, it was a bit difficult for that guy to wiggle the old strut out past everything that was still connected, and sneak the new one into position; removing the axle and so forth is a lot more work up front but would make it easy to get the strut in and out. So there's that.
I really enjoy watching your tutorials, thank you for taking the time to make them. I'm planning on removing and replacing the entire front end minus the hubs and brakes. The upper and lower ball joints with new control arms, the CV axles and complete strut assembly as well as tie rod ends. In what order would you remove and replace these items to save the most time? I figured I should do it all since I'm already in there.
You do not have to remove all the things that you did.. ppl all you have to move out of the way is the the outer tie rod that’s it. When taking the strut out move your wheel area a little bit so when dropping the lower part of the strut don’t catch your cv axle boot. Real easy. Putting the new one in put the top in 1st nuts loose then feed the bottom in at an angle use a pry bar and you’re in. Simple don’t have to do all this unnecessary procedures.
You can change the strut with fewer steps, remove top of strut 3 -15mm nuts,remove steering rod nut and move rod aside,remove large 29mm nut from large 6 inch bolt from bottom of strut, use pry bar and hammer to remove strut then replace with new strut replace all nuts in reverse order, use torque wrench
I didn’t need to remove the upper ball joint, the torsion link nut, or hub assembly. Just the 3 upper nuts, the big bolt at bottom of strut and tie rod nut and tie rod.
Looking forward to it...found out last week that some idiot overtightened 3 lug nuts on the driver's tire, I've tried propane, MAP gas, a 40 inch 3/4 drive breaker bar( the head snapped clean off), and a welders torch with the remaining 30 inch breaker bar....the only thing left for me to do is burn them off, after that's done it's the coil springs and pads, I've tried 2 out of 4 tires with only 3 being that way here's hoping the passenger side doesn't hold any more surprises
@@1AAuto according to Ford's workshop manual the tightening torque for the lower strut bolt should be 351ft-lbs. I thought it was a typo so I went to Haynes repair manual and they have it as the same torque spec 351 ft-lb
Thank you for watching. That would be up to you, the pads and rotors do not need to come off to replace the struts so there is no real advantage to doing one before the either. Please let us know how the repair comes out! 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@@Xixu.co.6 actually that is correct 351 ft lb torque is the correct tprque for the lower strut bolt. If you buy the workshop manual for the f150, Mark LT which is made by Ford the torque spec is 351 ft lbs of torque. invest in a torque multiplier that's all. if u need a photo of the page let me know it gives an exploded view the section of the vehicle with part numbers and required tightening torques.
Walt Bryan yes, I've done this numerous times, exact same procedure. it's easier on the 2wd, don't remove cap nor 13mm nut from hub, don't remove axle, could be done in 30 minutes, and easier to do if you compress coils a tiny bit to make them slide in smooth .
For those of us not charging or getting paid by the hour, just removing the steering tie rod will give you enough room to remove the strut. You're welcome.
No need for a pry bar to hold the rotor from turning cuz i just put a screw driver in the rotor and that keeps the rotor from turning plus it frees up ur other hand
Why all the extra steps. Just a waste of time. 1a sometimes has good videos. This makes it way more difficult than it needs to be. You only need to remove the tire rod. 😊
DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY! This is ridiculous lol! There’s zero reason to remove the axle at all! I just watched 5 other videos and no one did ALL that work. It took everyone else just MINUTES to replace them! I have no idea why these guys did this!
arizona f250 Really after taking off the caliper and rotor, all you have to disconnect is the tie rod end and upper ball joint. Everything else can stay connected.
+craig jones Thank you for checking us out, and the advice. This will certainly assist other viewers complete the replacement for their 2WD. 1aauto.com
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1Aauto be like: Now remove that engine to get to the top bolt holding the rear license plate
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This was a great tutorial. I just used it to replace both my front strut assemblies. However, after going through the first I did not find it necessary to remove the axle to complete this task... I would definitely recommend skipping that step. Makes the job a lot easier.
A lot of the disassembly is not necessary to change only the strut. But a nice tutorial.
Just did this swap, great video so thorough and helpful. I was able to complete without removing axles but great tutorial none the less.
Just getting ready to tear into mine, this video is thorough enough I think I can do it. Here, hold my NOT BUD LIGHT.......
Rock Auto has great prices on this coil spring shock addy.
Thanks for the upload.
I just did this job and found driveshaft removal is not necessary. I just undid upper ball joint and swung the assembly back a little.
I only had to take the tie rod loose..axle removal not needed..but thanks for helping 😉
+Iron *Fe* We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
I’m with you. I don’t want to remove the axle if I can avoid it.
Some they showed extra work we don't need
1a always shows u more than u need to know but be thankful
This is the most thorough video I have seen on replacing struts on the F150, I am unclear on why the axle needs to be removed.
+Everett McGill Thanks!
i got 07 f150 and change the struts and i didnt have to do half of what you did! tie rod and the 3 bolts and big bolts took out and the put new in
You do not have to remove the axle, tie rod or the knuckle to get the strut out. All you need is the right tools and a pry bar and you can take the old one out and put the new on in. No wonder shops charge so much for labor because of all the unnecessary removal of other parts. All you need to to do it remove the top 3 bolts and the lower bolt, use a pry bar to get the old one out and use a pry bar to get the new one in and you're done
You could make an update telling viewers you ONLY need to remove the tie rod to reolace the struts....... just s thought to save people hours of work im sure they would be more inclined to support your brand if you dont cause them hours of labor thats not needed
I just purchased a set of upper and lower control arms from 1A Auto and they work fantastic. Thanks 1A Auto👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
+That_Ford _Guy Thank you for your order. If you would like to leave us a review on Google it would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to our reviews section. Have a great day! goo.gl/i5JFNY
Don’t have to remove the axle,
Knock out the tie rod and it takes a little finagling but it will come out and go back
Only reason for removing sway bar link and axle is because they replaced them with new ones. A quick disclaimer as beginning of video would clear up a lot of confusion for people.
I just watched another video that didn't do half of this disassembly - just the outer tie rod, strut bolt at the bottom and three nuts on top. On the other hand, it was a bit difficult for that guy to wiggle the old strut out past everything that was still connected, and sneak the new one into position; removing the axle and so forth is a lot more work up front but would make it easy to get the strut in and out. So there's that.
If it's rear wheel drive, you don't need to mess with the front axle steps....
Usually find these videos to be useful but mann what overkill they do in tearing into this 😂🤣 only need to remove the tie rod end
Thank God I watched other videos before replacing my struts. 75% of the work you guys recommend doing in the video are not necessary.
I really enjoy watching your tutorials, thank you for taking the time to make them.
I'm planning on removing and replacing the entire front end minus the hubs and brakes.
The upper and lower ball joints with new control arms, the CV axles and complete strut assembly as well as tie rod ends. In what order would you remove and replace these items to save the most time? I figured I should do it all since I'm already in there.
the nut, bottom part of strut is 29mm, not 30mm and other side yes, the 1 1/16 or 27mm like he's says..did mine today 👍🏻
You do not have to remove all the things that you did.. ppl all you have to move out of the way is the the outer tie rod that’s it. When taking the strut out move your wheel area a little bit so when dropping the lower part of the strut don’t catch your cv axle boot. Real easy. Putting the new one in put the top in 1st nuts loose then feed the bottom in at an angle use a pry bar and you’re in. Simple don’t have to do all this unnecessary procedures.
Do you have to take out the cv axle?
There is a so much easier way of doing this! Thanks for the vids tho
+D DeLuca Thank you for your feedback! We are happy we could help.
So did the job no need to take off sway bar link, axle shaft, tie rod end. Just remove upper ball joint nut
Wow the foot pound torx for my 2005 f150 4.6 l V8 bottom strut bolt torx is 356 ft lbs
I’ve never seen an axle come out for a strut. That was so odd.
That’s what I said.
You can change the strut with fewer steps, remove top of strut 3 -15mm nuts,remove steering rod nut and move rod aside,remove large 29mm nut from large 6 inch bolt from bottom of strut, use pry bar and hammer to remove strut then replace with new strut replace all nuts in reverse order, use torque wrench
Great video! Thank you. On my to do list.
Are you working on a 4X4?
Do I need to get an alignment done after replacement ?
Should you get an alignment after doing this?
I didn’t need to remove the upper ball joint, the torsion link nut, or hub assembly. Just the 3 upper nuts, the big bolt at bottom of strut and tie rod nut and tie rod.
Super helpful. I really appreciate it.
This helped me a lot, thank you!
+Joseph Zertuche Thanks for watching. We're glad you liked it. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Looking forward to it...found out last week that some idiot overtightened 3 lug nuts on the driver's tire, I've tried propane, MAP gas, a 40 inch 3/4 drive breaker bar( the head snapped clean off), and a welders torch with the remaining 30 inch breaker bar....the only thing left for me to do is burn them off, after that's done it's the coil springs and pads, I've tried 2 out of 4 tires with only 3 being that way here's hoping the passenger side doesn't hold any more surprises
+devour43 Good luck with your repair!
is the lower strut bolt torqued to 150 ft lbs or 350 ft lbs ?
+ORLANDOS WORLD The lower strut bolt should be tightened to 150 ft-lb. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto according to Ford's workshop manual the tightening torque for the lower strut bolt should be 351ft-lbs. I thought it was a typo so I went to Haynes repair manual and they have it as the same torque spec 351 ft-lb
according to Ford's workshop manual the tightening torque for the lower strut bolt should be 351ft-lbs
I was planning on doing this when I replace my rotors and pads. Would you recommend replacing shocks and struts first then rotors and pads after?
Thank you for watching. That would be up to you, the pads and rotors do not need to come off to replace the struts so there is no real advantage to doing one before the either. Please let us know how the repair comes out!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
lower strut bolt is 351 ft lbs for torque
tmaq97 thx that's what I came for
There's no possible way that's correct.
@@Xixu.co.6 actually that is correct 351 ft lb torque is the correct tprque for the lower strut bolt. If you buy the workshop manual for the f150, Mark LT which is made by Ford the torque spec is 351 ft lbs of torque. invest in a torque multiplier that's all. if u need a photo of the page let me know it gives an exploded view the section of the vehicle with part numbers and required tightening torques.
Besides the front axles would this be the same procedure with a 2wd?
Yes, actually easier in the 2WD because you don't have to deal with the axle.
Walt Bryan yes, I've done this numerous times, exact same procedure. it's easier on the 2wd, don't remove cap nor 13mm nut from hub, don't remove axle, could be done in 30 minutes, and easier to do if you compress coils a tiny bit to make them slide in smooth .
it is way easier you just undo the outer tie rod and pop it out and swing spindle out of the way and easy in and out of strut.
Walt Bryan I think this was a 2wd
Why did you take out the axle
For those of us not charging or getting paid by the hour, just removing the steering tie rod will give you enough room to remove the strut. You're welcome.
What size is the socket? 30 or 38
No need for a pry bar to hold the rotor from turning cuz i just put a screw driver in the rotor and that keeps the rotor from turning plus it frees up ur other hand
Why all the extra steps. Just a waste of time. 1a sometimes has good videos. This makes it way more difficult than it needs to be. You only need to remove the tire rod. 😊
DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY! This is ridiculous lol! There’s zero reason to remove the axle at all! I just watched 5 other videos and no one did ALL that work. It took everyone else just MINUTES to replace them! I have no idea why these guys did this!
+Mad Man Mike We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
These videos are so helpful but these guys don't have to deal with the rust rot and broken or stripped bolts....lol
couldn't you just undo lower control arm from frame and drop strut out the bottom
arizona f250 Really after taking off the caliper and rotor, all you have to disconnect is the tie rod end and upper ball joint. Everything else can stay connected.
I don’t think I need to take all that off just to get to the struts. Just the outer tiered so that u can turn the steering knuckle out of the way
Thanks for the watching our video! +Robert Rowlin
All you really need to take off is the tie rod. Wtf why you disassembling the whole truck for???
Yo can we put a wheel on it and lower it down to Torque that bottom bolt
I literally just did mine and only had to loose the tie rod.
+Duh Mass TV Thanks for the feedback!
all you need to do is break loose the upper ball joint, and pop the tie rod out of the knuckle for the 2wd
+craig jones Thank you for checking us out, and the advice. This will certainly assist other viewers complete the replacement for their 2WD. 1aauto.com
That’s a pampered truck.
Holy crap…you don’t need to take off or the sway bar link sheesh….
Lol there is absolutely no reason you need to remove the axle non
Lmao!! Might as well remove the headlights to.
This is 4 wheel drive. 2 wheel drive is completely different.
Sorry but 2008 and below is a whole different truck, but yes it is very similar
This video wasn’t what the title was
WWWWWHY? seriously