Thank you for this video, this is the part of the Tikka system that has given me enough concern not to add one to my collection yet. As an old guy the idea of a recoil lug that is not fixed to the action scares me, as we have always been preached to about not allowing any play in the recoil lug to stock bedding. And having both ends of the lug able to move independently or have any play just seems wrong. I get that the Tikka system works well, there are just so many rifles out there that shoot well and are praised by people I respect. I just don't see how it can work. But then I still don't trust fuel injection fully either? But knowing you have replacements lugs makes me feel better. And after just finding your RUclips I'm going to binge watch until I get some more knowledge and confidence.
The Sako TRG-S in 338 Lapua uses the same recoil lug system. As long as you have the action sitting correctly in the stock, it is a simple and bomb proof system. Enjoy the binge session! Ha ha!
I was going to protect my stainless barrel using strikehold. Im thinking i dont want to put a coating on the recoil lug but i want to get your advice if it is a bad or good idea. Would also like to get your knowledgeable input on the best protection for the stainless barrel. Thank you@mountaintacticalcompany
I’ve never personally used Strikehold but it looks like a great product. My “go to” is Rand CLP. The grade of stainless Tikka uses is chosen for its durability in harsh Finnish winters. Our far north Alaskan customers love them because they are one of the few rifles that will not rust.
The Oryx (MDT) chassis for my Tikka comes with a recoil lug that jiggles. MDT said that they have to make the insert with tolerances because of any variation in the Tika bolts. I find that hard to believe. I had to do a recoil lug bedding job, so it is rock steady. Because of this, I believe the set-up went from a MOA gun to Half Moa. I had one of your lugs spare, but they are too large for the Oryx chassis. I thought you would be interested in knowing this. :)
This makes complete sense. If the recoil lug moves, the action moves. That would degrade accuracy. We’ve seen the same thing in factory rifles when the recoil lug is dented. I also understand MDT’s challenge in making it fit tight. You did the right thing by bedding it!
Great question! If your stock is wood or laminate, you will see greater long term accuracy with bedding. If your stock is composite, either polymer, fiberglass, or carbon, bedding is always a good idea if done correctly. Choose a gunsmith who knows both Tikkas and composites. Bedding compound can easily take your rifle out of factory tolerance, especially on Tikkas, if not done correctly. If it is done correctly, it is a work of art.
When it comes to recoil lugs and action screws, should you get the same type of metal the action is. For example, should you buy stainless if you have a stainless action, and vis versa.
It is worth upgrading the factory stock vs just getting a new one? After cheek plate, trigger guard, recoil lug, arca, and recoil pad it’s not a lot different than doing so in price
That’s a great question. The factory is very well made if you wanted to keep it. The trigger guard would be needed for an aftermarket stock either way so that shouldn’t be in the equation. Honestly, it’s all personal preference.
Thank you for this video, this is the part of the Tikka system that has given me enough concern not to add one to my collection yet. As an old guy the idea of a recoil lug that is not fixed to the action scares me, as we have always been preached to about not allowing any play in the recoil lug to stock bedding. And having both ends of the lug able to move independently or have any play just seems wrong. I get that the Tikka system works well, there are just so many rifles out there that shoot well and are praised by people I respect. I just don't see how it can work. But then I still don't trust fuel injection fully either? But knowing you have replacements lugs makes me feel better. And after just finding your RUclips I'm going to binge watch until I get some more knowledge and confidence.
The Sako TRG-S in 338 Lapua uses the same recoil lug system. As long as you have the action sitting correctly in the stock, it is a simple and bomb proof system.
Enjoy the binge session! Ha ha!
Thank you for these detailed videos. Just ordered the bomb proof lug from you guys.
@@davidB-ht6nd thank you for your business!
I was going to protect my stainless barrel using strikehold. Im thinking i dont want to put a coating on the recoil lug but i want to get your advice if it is a bad or good idea. Would also like to get your knowledgeable input on the best protection for the stainless barrel. Thank you@mountaintacticalcompany
I’ve never personally used Strikehold but it looks like a great product. My “go to” is Rand CLP. The grade of stainless Tikka uses is chosen for its durability in harsh Finnish winters. Our far north Alaskan customers love them because they are one of the few rifles that will not rust.
The Oryx (MDT) chassis for my Tikka comes with a recoil lug that jiggles. MDT said that they have to make the insert with tolerances because of any variation in the Tika bolts. I find that hard to believe. I had to do a recoil lug bedding job, so it is rock steady. Because of this, I believe the set-up went from a MOA gun to Half Moa. I had one of your lugs spare, but they are too large for the Oryx chassis. I thought you would be interested in knowing this. :)
This makes complete sense. If the recoil lug moves, the action moves. That would degrade accuracy. We’ve seen the same thing in factory rifles when the recoil lug is dented.
I also understand MDT’s challenge in making it fit tight.
You did the right thing by bedding it!
On an unrelated note, how do you like that Oryx MDT chassis? Id love to get one, but i dont wanna use AICS mags
@@whiteyfisk9769 for the budget, I am happy with it. If you do not like AICS mags, you might want to look for something else.
Just installed The Mountain Tach Recoil lug, simple install. Your thoughts on bedding?
Great question! If your stock is wood or laminate, you will see greater long term accuracy with bedding. If your stock is composite, either polymer, fiberglass, or carbon, bedding is always a good idea if done correctly. Choose a gunsmith who knows both Tikkas and composites. Bedding compound can easily take your rifle out of factory tolerance, especially on Tikkas, if not done correctly. If it is done correctly, it is a work of art.
When it comes to recoil lugs and action screws, should you get the same type of metal the action is. For example, should you buy stainless if you have a stainless action, and vis versa.
That doesn’t matter for these parts
Quick question…is it 45 ft lbs with a plastic trigger guard on a plastic T3X stock ?
Does a metal trigger guard change the torque specs ?
Thank you
45 in/lbs. you’ll break things at 45 ft/lbs. A billet bottom metal is torqued to 45 in/lbs as well. Cheers!
Thank you for the response.
45 in lbs on my fat wrench 👍🏻
I’ll put my tire torque wrench away lol
Haha! We’ve had customers go ft/lbs before…. The results were tragic…glad you have a Fat Wrench!
It is worth upgrading the factory stock vs just getting a new one? After cheek plate, trigger guard, recoil lug, arca, and recoil pad it’s not a lot different than doing so in price
That’s a great question. The factory is very well made if you wanted to keep it. The trigger guard would be needed for an aftermarket stock either way so that shouldn’t be in the equation. Honestly, it’s all personal preference.
I can't help but wonder if betting the recoil lug would help with accuracy and longevity.
That’s why we make them
Where do i get one?
Www.mountaintactical.com
I hit the LIKE button every time but about 50% of the time, I get the colors indicating it worked but the number is still at zero. What up with that?
RUclips is weird like that…
You have to refresh it.
@@ZachHunts I was doing that.
Too many 0s and 1s flying around
First again. Big daddy rocks
That’s awesome!