Boring Head Tailstock Offset
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Following making the small offset recently, decided to make a boring head version. I think this is a better way to go even though distance between centers is a bit further reduced. Made two ball bearing centers of different sizes ... 3,5mm and 4.5mm.
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I setup a hand crank on my spindle too. Helps me do threading and I am thankful for the tip.
Hi Roy - my spindle handle has been invaluable over many decades! :)
Excellent job! I love the hand crank feature of your lathe...total control. :-)
Hey Dale -thank you. Yes indeed, the spindle handle has been a real plus for a great many years - can save potential crashes sometimes :)
Hi Chris, it looks as if what you have now with the boring head offset will be a great addition to your special tools. Good luck!
Hi Jim - I think this version is better - may yet make up another type of center but so far it seems to do OK. ATB. :)
That gives you another option, I never find that the ball gives me much support, or confidence over the 60 degs taper centre, but you do have an option with your set up, the crank handle is a really good system and gives total control when screwcutting up to a shoulder, that is a very good addition to any Lathe, Thanks for posting ! Chris B.
Hello Chris - I have thought since on making another center but just turned down to radiused round end on std taper and super hardened. Thanks for dropping by.
When I made my ball centers I used 1/2 pull style dowel pins and silver soldered different sixes of balls in them. The Boring Head had a #2 Morse on it so that saved me some work. Unfortunately I had to sell my large lathe re e toy and I threw the set-up in with the tooling that I was including. I also happen to think it's better to use a ball on each end.
Sounds like a good idea with the pins - may give that some thought, thanks. :)
@@ChrisB257
Even with the offset centers there is a limit to just how much taper you can cut IMO. Shift the tailstock over too far and you're going to start getting a camming effect on the workpiece depending on just the work is being spun in the lathe. A Taper Attachment is still a better option.
Nice! Now you have a couple options for doing tapers, depending on the requirements of the project at hand. Another use for a boring head too - after seeing what others use them for, like you just did, like John Mills' ball turner, etc. one could almost call it a "multipurpose head."
Hi Everett - thanks. I think this will be better than the small one.
Hi Chris.
Nice job. I would have just made up a regular carbide tipped dead centre. Ball tips always look a bit suspect to me, both in construction and location/application. I was surprised you didn't use manganese bronze braze to keep that BB in place.
Interesting video.
Cheers Rob
Thx Rob - the ball in theory at least does give reasonable contact withing the center hole I think though yes carbide tipped dead center would be good - or even turning a tool steel dead center with radiused end and well hardened. Avoided the bronze braze simply in order to try and minimize too much clean up after. :)
Hi Chris,
Manganese would be a bit trickier I guess. I just hate the thought of that ball falling out of position and the job flailing about - uggggh !
Would love some of that hot weather. Have a beer for me.
Cheers Rob
Hey Rob - you are welcome to the heat and excessive precip spells! Keep your 'boys' warm anyways.!
My thinking on the ball is - once center is fully within the center hole, the ball is kept forced back into its pocket (it's at about 1/2 dia) - only thing might be if silver solder fails, it will fall out when center withdrawn. Guess well see over time.
I'll gladly do the beer - but it won't be Fosters! :)
Hi Chris. This is actually a perfect job for a small TPG grinder like the HILDA. You could securely bronze in an old carbide / HSS end mill shank and then profile it as you wish. Would HILDA work with a ball radius turning fixture ?
Cheers Rob
Useful thought Rob - definitely one way to be able re-purpose an old end mill. I guess HILDA could be used for that but would need its own set up.
Nice job Chris. I use a carbide tip in my tailstock taper head. Never thought about a ball but will probably make one to try it out.Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Hi Gary - I think actually the carbide approach is better overall - or even as Xynudu had mentioned, re-purpose an old end mill as an insert on the end. I may yet experiment a bit more. ATB. :)
Hi Chris. Your boring head offset seems to be quite a refinement over your first offset center. Well done! Now if you had a built in bubble level ..... Looking forward to seeing it utilized on a future project. Meanwhile keep your balls in control! Lol. Tc, Mike
Hi Mike,
Thanks - well, may be a while before it is needed but useful to now have it on hand. Always careful with ball control LOL. :)
Good content as usual Chris.Keep em coming.Ernie. Happy 2020
Must have missed this Ernie, sorry. Same to you for 2020, however by now of course we have had the year somewhat ruined! Hope you are coping. ATB
This looks to be a much better solution than the previous try, much easier to adjust...
On my part, i'm not gonna have to make one since I own a very costly commercial unit, even has a live center on it...... ;)
Hi Pierre - better I think yes. I do have a proper device that goes with the lathe but it's a PITA getting it all set up - so for shorter tapers I think this gizmo will suffice. :)
That should do the job. I like the ball center.
Hi Harold - thanks. Hoping the balls stay put, as they say :)
hey Chris,
Nice enough work, but it seems all a bit excessive... unless you want to turn very steep angled tapers...
I have turned a multitude of MT's and other tapers, just with a dead hardened center or a half center.
Providing they are good and truly hard, and you use HP grease to lubricate them, this works a treat.
So the feature with the ball bearing seems, to me, to be a bit over the top...
Cheers
Paddy
Hi Paddy,
Yes, a bit excessive maybe but still, an interesting project. I always have had a ''thing'' about disturbing the set up on my tailstock. :)
Chris,
yeah, I can get that...and I wasn't debating the wisdom of making the tool you presented in the previous vids or using a boring head (something I even suggested in previous comments) I was merely commenting on the inserts you use in those tools. You can just as easy use a hardened center in the boring head or the tool you made, without inserting the ball bearing. Dead centers, even of a proper brand are pretty cheap and can be shortened easy enough. The trick , IMO, is in the use of high pressure lube (and enough of it)
Cheers
Paddy
Agreed Paddy - could well have gone that route of course and may even make one up. :)
Hi Chris !
You found the VERY OLD MANs razor - maybe you know him Occam - his principle is always good to use - and you did so nicely here - I'll use this facility already incorporated in my tailstock ;-))
Hi there Keld.
Haha - you have not lost your wit! :) Thank you my friend.
Good idea, well done. Thanks for displaying your handiwork.
Hi Jeffry - and thank you too. :)
Chris I used a bell center drill to make the pocket on my setup
Hi Bill - useful idea :)
Nice work Chris, very smart.
Thank you Luke. :)
great video,chris.....thank you for sharing..........can't wait for the next one.
Thanks very much Ray.
Good job My friend. Again thanks for the phone call, it really helps. Thanks again.
Hi Terry,
Thank you. Thoughts still going your way. ATB.
G'day Chris greetings from Tasmania great video really enjoyed it thanks mate all the best John
Thank you John. :)
Hi Craig. :)
Siempre un placer segirle con sus ingenios,un saludo amigo.
Gracias Manuel, tu comentario fue muy apreciado.
Excellent video Chris! Thank you!
And thank you :-)
That looks like a much better set up.
Hi Terry - yes I think it will do better when needed. Thanks :)
Another nice video Chris Ta!
Has yet i,ve not had a go at cutting a thread usually get away with taps and die,s .I have watched you and John Mills cutting threads on the lathe .
My question is how do you know how deep to go to form the thread
Thanks Maurice. Depth of thread is essentially based on figures from charts - major diameter minus minor diameter with external threads - this related to actual pitch as against diameter of piece itself. If no test piece available, nut possibly sometimes, then need to check with thread mic or wires to assess accuracy.
Hi Chris, a question. Are you satisfied with the tramming of mill column? I have your same model but i want to improve the precision. Any idea?
Hi Cosimo - I reckon it's pretty good right now but must admit I really should take a real close look sometime to be sure. I guess I am being a bit lazy! For sure well worth tramming but of course you may have to fiddle with very small shims at column base. I did check it from new and it seemed good then.
Hi Chris, I have the same or similar mill to yours. When you lock your quill does it move it over a few thou, as mine does. Do you have a work round for this. I tend to lock the quill and use the down feed on the column if I need anything really accurate because of the movement in the quill. Thanks. Paul.
Hi Paul,
Well I do notice a slight effect. Typically, if I have the friction lock set and am using the Z axis control know with DRO figures for downfeed, I need to expect a small increase of .0005 to .001 added on. If however I back off and again stop at my chosen figure it can hold the setting - something I have sort of gotten used to now. Can't say I've tried the column approach - the Z DRO works OK just as long as I check figure after quill lock.
I do also have an indicator set up to monitor quill travel and can check this against the Z DRO. Hope that all makes some sense!
ChrisB257 thanks Chris. I wasn't too clear with my initial comment. The movement I get when I lock the quill (my lock is on the left hand side) is a sidewards movement in the X axis particularly noticeable when the quill is extended. The lock seems to push the quill over to the right. I.e opposite to the lock position.
Yes, lock is left hand side. I didn't get the impression so much of sideways movement on mine as much as small increase downwards by .0005 or .001 after locking. I'll have to look more critically when I can and maybe use an indicator to check.
I came here to see the boring bar in the tailstock trick but now I want to make a spindle handle 😂
Spindle handle Kreg is well worth making - I made mine originally over 30 years ago. Best wishes.
hi chris
Hey Andy - thanks for dropping by - good to see you on the Bash streaming video.
cheers chris i enjoy your videos just trying to find a nice easy to use editing program
Thank you . There are quite a few free edit progs but I still use one which has served well - Movie Plus X6 - not sure if it is findable because it's quite old. Could be you could find a copy off Amazon but do a search perhaps and find someone selling used.
I CANNOT WATCH THIS ARE YOU CHANGING YOUR VIDEO FORMATS ???????
Hi - no change - still H264 for MP4. Same as for ages. Of course I know sometimes the YT processing can change things but no previously been a problem that I know of. Sorry you had trouble with it. This was a 720P but sometimes if video shorter I'll encode to 1080P.