Blue Flame Waste Oil Heater Burner Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 23 ноя 2021
- Finally I managed to do the long promised video of the finished product with some description.
Part 2 in here: • Blue Flame Waste Oil H...
First try: • Waste Oil Heater oil b...
Second run: • Blue Flame Waste Oil B...
Third run: • Blue Flame Waste Oil H...
Seen a lot of diy burners on RUclips, this is by far the best!
Thank you, I will probably do few things differently if I would build another in future, but generally it works really well
Thanks Martin for showing your work. It is very important to learn to do them by ourselves
Thank you
Now I get it all, nice work 💪🏻 regards from Poland
Thank you
Awesome design!
Very interesting. Thank you.
Hey Martin,
Thanks for your contribution!
You have helped considerably.
I'm working with Brad Shows and just finished a video that mentions your channel (hope that's all right)
Thanks again for sharing your work. 🤗
very elegant.
Thank you
Un grand BRAVO !!
Thank you
Excellent job. Going to pick up some material for a new burner today. You have a new subscriber #202 I’ll be looking forward to updates. I just just run a gravity feed with a 50 Cfm bathroom fan on a dimmer switch to adjust flow. I’m looking forward to getting a blue flame. My current set up smokes a lot and has a lot of waste build up. It’s a mess to clean up daily. Thanks
Thank you.
I think the bathroom fan is an issue, as it provides high flow, but low pressure air and depends on your chimney length you may either extend it or add more air to create more draft
Bravo !!!
Thank you
How do you get the circular flame going inside the tank ???
It is the heating of the injected air that gets you to blue(breaks down the hydrogen I think). As you discovered the additional air finding it’s way in when you remove the top changes the ratio, but it also cools the reaction getting you back to the yellow flame. I am going to say that this rig probably generates quite a bit of carbon residue in the bottom after an extended run. The reason for this is it takes more temperature to break down the heavier carbon. Temperatures hot enough to make steel glow orange… You are breaking down and vaporizing the lighter volatiles but it doesn’t appear hot enough to break down the heavies. In the ones I have built, the cleanest burn/least residue comes when the burn chamber is covered with large orange spots where the jets fire. When everything is running bright orange I have very little residue and it breaks up and dumps out easily. In the long run you really need stainless to run that much heat as those temps also cook the carbon out of mild steel and the tank will degrade.
This is an excellent build! If I may offer a suggestion, find a tall stainless cook pot that your air pipe will fit in and place it down in the main tank on some sort of block to tune the height, and introduce your fuel down inside the air pipe and into that stainless pot. You can then tune it so the stainless pot can superheat/glow for better breakdown of the oil, less degradation of the material and easier cleaning by being able to remove the pot to loosen and dump out any leftover ash…
Thank you for the comment.
I'd love to see your build if possible? Do you have any link?
I have used the orange flame before on different burner (with forced air as well), but it has created way more soot.
It may have been wrong design, but I had that for free, so I was running it before I build this one.
I can run the rig with orange flame if I use less fuel, but didn't try that for longer to see how much residue I will have, but you are right, the blue flame is creating much higher temperature.
The biggest differences I would say between the blue and orange flame I see in the heating the cylinder - which is my intention, and when using the orange flame, most of the heat goes out through the flue.
After couple of hours burn I have little bit of residue, but really small particle, not excessive amount I would say - I post video of it within next update.
I agree with the stainless steel enclosure, but I don't get the cylinder glowing red as I'm using forced air around it to push the heat out (will post another video soon).
@@martinsdiy825 not orange flame, you want the blue flame, i was talking about the cylinder where the oil is being added getting hot enough for the steel to glow orange. You want the chamber where the oil is being vaporized to be as hot as possible so it breaks down more of the long chain carbon. My current oil burner is a Babbington type shooting into a large heat exchanger to heat the garage. I am working on one of this style that will run on plastic(needs to be really hot to do that cleanly) but I don’t have any video of it yet. In all my trials though the red hot chamber burns the cleanest with the least residue…
@@rronmar I run my burner with yellow colour purely because as you say the blue flame will tend to carbon things up (A lot) as long as the fire is roaring with plenty of air there is no visible smoke and it burns most of the carbon off the sides of the burn chamber ! and leaves only a little residue after 12 hours plus. I also noticed with the blue flame on my burner would smoke and smell quite horrific ! :)
If you keep getting stainless steel red hot it breaks down just the same. Probably lasts a little longer but not much in my experience. Heavy gauge stainless would be the best way to go but would be expensive.
@@rronmar during normal operation the cylinder should never get hot enough to glow orange, it was only on some of the test runs, but the current setup has preventing that and still able to use the blue flame.
Will post video soon with the final setup.
hello I'm from Brazil I would like to know if there are projects there in your country that can make a used oil stove that has a clean blue flame free of foligem I'm very interested in building one
Fantastic build and workmanship. How do you clean it out ?. I was thinking of having a door at the bottom to assist cleaning.
Thank you, the top is removable and I just use hoover to clean it.
Thanks Martin!
I have similar result with 2 20 lb tanks welded together, but I come in from the bottom with the air assembly and from the top with the oil feed-works great.
I just need a good oil pump, can you tell me what the pump comes from that you are currently using?
Thanks,
Dale. 🙂
This was my original idea too, but this would make it little bit more complicated to take it apart
Hey Martin,
Good to hear from you.
I think it is much easier to take apart- its lighter, smaller, and gives the possibility of using a draft of a 13' chimney to run it instead of a blower.
We are working on it.
New video showing the parts and measurements soon.
😊
@@learn2farmagain30 Sounds good, I think the fan will allow you to adjust the combustion and heat output?
Can wait to see more details
unfortunately those things are nothing like you can read/learn about, but I noticed my heat output is related to the fan speed.
A few tips: if you throw the supercoarse stainless scrubbing pads for washing dishes in the bottom of the oil burner, they will glow and ignite unburied hydrocarbons much more efficiently. Also they will help prevent the fire from going out. And weld a stainless steel mesh over the exhaust port. That will also glow and help burn any potential I burned hydrocarbons on the way out to your chimney. Also, has anyone tried putting a nozzle on the end of your oil tube to encourage a misting or atleast spraying effect?
thank you for the tip, I'll give it ago, but I'm assuming this will be little bit more complicated when cleaning the chamber
If you put nozzle on the oil tube, you would have to use pressure to inject the oil.
Those are different type of burners, where you ignite the mist
Hi Martin how are you controlling the fan speed is it an AC fan or DC fan motor are u using and speed controller or PWM
It is DC Fan from an old gas boiler, controlled by 24V and PWM signal
Mate if you start the fan as soon as you light the diesel then introduce the oil you won't get that smoke.
Thanks for the excellent video, I just subscribed!
Can you share the total height of your propane tank?
Thanks again 😊
Thank you,
I do believe I have used the 19l propane tank:
www.flogas.co.uk/product/19kg-propane-gas-cylinder#specification
Wow this is just wow. Is it work with any oil ?
yes, it does, any engine oil, cooking oil, etc
Can you tell me if you could make this burn blue right away Sir ??? Nice work with great information for us all to use. VF
I would say it is not possible, as the blue flame comes only when the oil is hot and you have to start with diesel to ignite it and make the oil burn.
However if you warm the oil in extra heater and than you transfer it to the burning chamber and you would use hot air to light it up, it may be possible.
@@martinsdiy825 Thank you for letting me know Martin. Was not aware of all the extras needed to make that happen. Peace. VF
Martin could You share with us some dimmensions of this burner? I would like to build it.
yes, I can, but it always be sort of related to the cylinder you can have/use.
I think there is no mandatory for the holes to be exactly that diameter or how far apart, but the air and fuel mixture will be more important.
Best
Exactly what oil pump and controller are you using??
I revert back to drop/manual control as during really cold weather the pump is not able to deliver enough oil
Hi,sir what is thickness of burning chamber wall
To be honest I don't know, this 19l Propane tank
that is heater for animal farm. oil smell will be felt
There's no need to have it smoking like it is, turn the fan on as soon as you light it.
Here's the link:
m.ruclips.net/video/Ci1lyLfN_PI/видео.html
Here is the working model.
m.ruclips.net/video/uIdO0cMce3c/видео.html
looks good, love to see more details
hook up a turbo to takeover after the system is online...
That is good idea, but I think it will make the system more complicated as the turbo needs clean oil for lubrication
Turbos on heaters don't work out so well. They're really noisy and want to self destruct.
While that looks neat, you are adding more air than is needed for complete combustion. This extra air absorbs heat, reduces the temperature of the combustion gas in the stove. The lower temp means that less heat gets transferred out of the stove and more heat goes up the chimney. An estimate of the correct amount of air needed is when the smoke just stops.
Thank you for the comment, although I'm not sure what you mean by complete combustion?
If you notice I can regulate the air and it is adjusted just to get the blue flame, which is much higher temperature burn, than the typical yellow flame.
On the part 2 is complete design and trust me there is huge differences on the setup seen on the video and the yellow and blue flame.
There are 2 points why to go to blue flame - it is using higher temperature than yellow and it is going directly to the side of the cylinder rather than up and to the chimney.
@@martinsdiy825 Complete combustion is when no more fuel is left. Say we are burning carbon with oxygen (no other elements present) . We get carbon dioxide and maybe carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is still flammable, so if enough oxygen is available it too will become carbon dioxide. Any extra oxygen left over after all the carbon has turned to carbon dioxide has nothing to react with and will not add heat. It will absorb heat and thus lower the temperature of the combustion gas. When we use air for combustion it has nitrogen etc. in it but only the oxygen is useful. Any extra air just absorbs heat, lowering the temperature of the exhaust gas.
All that said, You may be greatly improving the heat transfer between the combustion gas and the the steel wall of the stove by agitating the gas with high speed air blowing. So the result is an improvement in the amount of heat that goes into the house and less goes up the chimney, even if the temperature of that combustion gas is lower due to the excess air.
@@martinsdiy825 By the way, I read about all this in a document called "Professional Guide to Oilheat - R.W. Beckett Corp."
It is available as free pdf download at www.beckettcorp.com. A google search for the title will bring you right to the download link.
@@2OO_OK Thank you for explanation, I thought the flame color is what is giving us the burning or flame temperature.
Just as example, if I'm burning with yellow flame I'm burning the oil on the top and the heat goes strait on the top, when changing to the blue flame I'm not burning the oil as in above situation, but more the oil vapor with much higher temperature giving the heat to the side of the cylinder.
In first case too much air will be exactly going to the chimney, but using less air in my case will reduce the burning temperature and stage back to yellow flame.
it would be really nice to talk about this in person....
@@2OO_OK Thank you, will try to have a look on this, but again, beckett is totally different type of burner and probably not related to what I'm trying to do.
😂😂😂😂😂😂