I'm going to use the clay method on mine. I'm actually installing those same gt40p heads on my 302. My question is, can I reuse the head gasket after I put the head on and snug up the bolts to check ptv clearance when I actually install the heads? Or will they be ruined from the head sitting down on them? Should I just get a cheap set of head gaskets for 20$ with the same thickness as my 80$ frpp gaskets to check ptv clearance and then throw them away afterwards?
Usually I keep old head gaskets for this reason. Gaskets compress when torqued so if you're using the same thickness of head gasket as a replacement then the old one will give you perfect measurements. However, if you're using a thicker gasket on the new build just compensate your measurements with the added in thickness. For example, if you measure .100 and the new gasket is .020 thicker then add that to the measurements you get with the old one, totaling .120. If you don't have the old gaskets anymore then your idea of some cheap ones for measurements is your best bet. Some people will say torqueing a head gasket for checks and not actually running it will be fine but after doing it once years back and having leaks on both heads, it's not worth it. $15-20 for a cheap gasket set if you don't have it and piece of mind versus 1-2hrs of labor and replacing good expensive gaskets if they leak is a no brainer.
Ryan, gasket manufacturers give a compressed thickness for head gaskets. You will GENERALLY only need to buy 2 sets of feeler gauges and you should be able to shim the 4 corners of the cylinder head or around the bore of the cylinder in question, to the compressed thickness of the gasket you're using. Next rebuild, like the other gentleman suggested is always save a old gasket. Good luck.
I Think Is Becasue Not All Engines Have The Piston Sit Below The Deck. Odd Balls Like The Series 2 3800 V6 Have The Piston Sit .015-.025" Past The Deck. No Head Gasket Means Pistons Hit The Heads And You Won't Be Able To Turn Engine Over.
i didnt know how to read a dial bore gauge now i do. Thanks bro just to make sure im right its 100 thousandths when it rotates all the way around and back to zero correct?
+MAHLE Motorsports North America I don't have a cam yet or a set of heads. when I get my heads can I use the dial indicator and do this without the cam installed and use that information to choose a cam or do I just have to waste time and money taking a shot in the dark when I buy a cam?
+MAHLE Motorsports North America well it's a motor my uncle and I built Iowa's my first build and I don't remember what pistons he used all I know is it's stock crank and rods with taller pistons and he's no longer with us so I can't just ask him and all it is, is a short block with no cam at the moment I was going to go with some Afr heads or something along that line nothing too crazy and wanted to run somewhere around a 530 or so lift cam but I just don't know about those pistons he put in it it's a 1977 351w bored .040 with longer pistons I don't know how much but he said with factory heads should get about 10.5:1 compression from it and they are very close to the deck at tdc probably very very close to coming above to deck height
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Very good video.
Is it ok to score your piston valve relief with a knife?
How Much Were You Moving The Crank To Find Lowest Point? Degree At A Time ?
Yes and by using the gauge to find the lowest point.
I'm going to use the clay method on mine. I'm actually installing those same gt40p heads on my 302. My question is, can I reuse the head gasket after I put the head on and snug up the bolts to check ptv clearance when I actually install the heads? Or will they be ruined from the head sitting down on them? Should I just get a cheap set of head gaskets for 20$ with the same thickness as my 80$ frpp gaskets to check ptv clearance and then throw them away afterwards?
Usually I keep old head gaskets for this reason. Gaskets compress when torqued so if you're using the same thickness of head gasket as a replacement then the old one will give you perfect measurements. However, if you're using a thicker gasket on the new build just compensate your measurements with the added in thickness. For example, if you measure .100 and the new gasket is .020 thicker then add that to the measurements you get with the old one, totaling .120. If you don't have the old gaskets anymore then your idea of some cheap ones for measurements is your best bet. Some people will say torqueing a head gasket for checks and not actually running it will be fine but after doing it once years back and having leaks on both heads, it's not worth it. $15-20 for a cheap gasket set if you don't have it and piece of mind versus 1-2hrs of labor and replacing good expensive gaskets if they leak is a no brainer.
Ryan, gasket manufacturers give a compressed thickness for head gaskets. You will GENERALLY only need to buy 2 sets of feeler gauges and you should be able to shim the 4 corners of the cylinder head or around the bore of the cylinder in question, to the compressed thickness of the gasket you're using. Next rebuild, like the other gentleman suggested is always save a old gasket. Good luck.
Or you can just mount the head straight onto the block and add your head gasket thickness to the figure you get afterward.
Why do you need the head gasket if you know what the compressed thickness is?
I Think Is Becasue Not All Engines Have The Piston Sit Below The Deck. Odd Balls Like The Series 2 3800 V6 Have The Piston Sit .015-.025" Past The Deck. No Head Gasket Means Pistons Hit The Heads And You Won't Be Able To Turn Engine Over.
@@salvatorehayes2753 that is called an inference engine non interference.
What necessitates push rod guide plates?
What is a safe measurement for valve piston clearance on small engine... no vavle relief?
20 hp briggs
i didnt know how to read a dial bore gauge now i do. Thanks bro
just to make sure im right its 100 thousandths when it rotates all the way around and back to zero correct?
+KSI SubSonic it really depends on the model, but in most cases yes, you're correct.
+MAHLE Motorsports North America I don't have a cam yet or a set of heads. when I get my heads can I use the dial indicator and do this without the cam installed and use that information to choose a cam or do I just have to waste time and money taking a shot in the dark when I buy a cam?
+eXp0N3nT1aL you need a cam in there to complete the process, but you should be able to figure out what cam you need with proper research.
+MAHLE Motorsports North America well it's a motor my uncle and I built Iowa's my first build and I don't remember what pistons he used all I know is it's stock crank and rods with taller pistons and he's no longer with us so I can't just ask him and all it is, is a short block with no cam at the moment I was going to go with some Afr heads or something along that line nothing too crazy and wanted to run somewhere around a 530 or so lift cam but I just don't know about those pistons he put in it it's a 1977 351w bored .040 with longer pistons I don't know how much but he said with factory heads should get about 10.5:1 compression from it and they are very close to the deck at tdc probably very very close to coming above to deck height
Lol
Very Helpful, Thank You.
Sweet
So you have to waste a gasket to do this...???
Poor explanation on gauge measurement
If you are not smart enough to figure that out you should not be working on engines