Arrma Typhon 6s Differential maintenance.cleaning and new oil.
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2024
- After The last few hard bashes I decided to open up and change the oil and make sure the differentials were in good shape before the new chassis transfer the car has had a rough life already this summer so it was needing some much overdue attention
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This video really helped, I just purchased a used Typhon 6s BLX, and I wanted to change or inspect all the fluids. I was shocked when I took the front diff out and saw there was no fluid. This video has definitively helped.
That’s awesome bud. I’m glad the video was helpful. I’m going to be putting out a new one. That’s a little more in depth.
@@BarstoneRC Good to know, I would like to check that one out.
Absolutely love your channel and all the details and practical maintenance walkthroughs you share. Thanks for uploading this.
Glad you enjoyed the video man I appreciate it!
I am new to this hobby, i have a outcast 6s and run it for 3 or 4 runs. Now i want to see my diffs and your video is perfect for me.
That’s awesome I’m glad that video was helpful buddy
Thank you for the runs and tech help vids. I am way late and you have worked on that thing enough times but all you have to do is the sway bar removal then the 4 cap screws for the diff housing. Then can pull straight out. Same with rear. Disconnect the sway bars at the arm and as you do the 4 same screws as the front, the ones by the sway bar, do it slowly and they will fit by to remove them. 👍 like I said you probably know that by now, if not just trying to cut time off your service.
No I always appreciate any help and information everybody always has a different way of thinking and it’s always good to hear other peoples ideas. Thanks buddy
I need to get upgraded chassis bracing u get hot racing or m2c ,JBRC ect….
I’ve been using the hot racing stuff a lot sometimes just due to availability and I’ve had good luck with it and never had any problems.
Whenever that new chassis gets in try adding ALUMINUM F/R BRACES for better support. It definitely helps to prevent any bends, tweaks & chassis flex. Also I've been told that the 100K in the FRONT & 50K-80K in the REAR improves forward thrust & steering.... GOOD LUCK with your teardown and rebuild 👍🏾
Thanks bud
Good. Informative video! Thanks for sharing, mate 👍
Thanks for watching bud
I've started using HSS drill bits cut down for my diff pins, get a couple per bit if you don't use the drill part, if you do you can get few more
I’ve seen a few people doing that with the drillbits and they seem to hold up very well.
@@BarstoneRC Yeah I got idea from facebook group I'm in, I'm doing a M2C'ed Notorious I bought used, so wanted to make it as bullet proof as I could, plus they was snapped in half lol
Great video quality!!!!!
Thanks bud
Great information, aways looking to learn the maintenance side of the hobby!
Thanks man I really appreciate it! But yeah the more you can do yourself The cheaper it is to do repairs and it’s honestly a lot of fun tearing them down and working on them.
@@BarstoneRC I enjoy the maintenance and repair part, it still sucks to break stuff though
Lol yeah I know
Awesome admiration video!!! 👍
Very good!!! 😄😄😄😄😄
Thanks bud I appreciate it
Im getting a blue notorious afTer i sell my mojave exb. Planned to make it exb ish. The basics you need are alloy braces
Nice they are a fun car. Love mine
Very helpful video! Thank you!
I’m glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
What does the earplug do, and should i use it?
It locks up the center differential so it evenly distribute the power to the front and rear wheels. I do it to all of my cars.
Good info...
Thanks bud
What shock towers do u recommend mine got bent
M2C racing. Absolutely the toughest ones out there
What I don’t understand about shimming cars is why are they all different despite being the same?
It’s the way some plastics probably cool down and tolerances are different on all of them
@@BarstoneRC that makes sense
how do you get the sway bar off without taking the screw out of the back side of the A arm ? or is that the only way to get the sway bar off so you can get to the diff ?
I popped the ball out of the little link that’s connected to the A arm and then I can swing it out of the way
👍👍
I seen you flipped upper arm back to normal at end of video lol 😆
Yeah it was backwards lol
Same happened to me once lol
What is that small set screw at the bottom of the diff cup for, letting out excess fluid or air?
It is to remove the pin from the drive cup on that end you actually have to slide the pin in and out through that hole. Sometimes you’re able to do it from the inside but many times you actually have to pull that grub screw out and pull the pin out that way it’s a little tedious but it does work.
@@BarstoneRC ok, good to know 🙂
Good stuff man, I am actually looking at changing my diff fluids soon. I replaced the center diff with 500K when I got the car, does the ear plugs make a noticeable difference?
Yeah they make A big difference especially with the front tires ballooning.
@@BarstoneRC i would not recomend buying earplugs for the diff😂 just spend 7-8 € / $ on a center diff spool ( from Gpm, Hot racing,...) and you also got a completly loked diff and no balooning frontwheels but way easier and without maintance! Because it is just metal👍
I’m not a fan of spools on bashers, no give at all I break more drive train parts with spools . Ear plugs almost lock it up but still have some give on the drive train.
Silicone ear plugs in the center diff are fine just keep an up on your bearing maintenance.
I didn't & melted every composite plastic part near it in my diff.
Also upgraded everything near the center diff to aluminum & got a 29mm EXB LSD diff from Jenny's RC to replace my melted stock one. I loved it. The Typhon could do wheelies on GRP S7s on the street! But not minding my bearings in the front diff caused it to go out & I tried running it without the front driveshafts... 🤦🏾♂️
Ever seen a diff go up in smoke? 🤣
It still ran up until I taco'd the chassis on a light pole.
Now that 29mm diff is all metal too & filled with only 10K fluid & the Typhon has Fast Eddy's bearings all around... Except for the right front inner bearing. It didn't survive the crash. I just swapped the seals over to the stock bearing & repacked it.
Don't know how everything runs yet. Holidays & work keep me from putting it all together.
I'm doing a meticulous tear down and inspection. Don't want to do another major tear down unless I am getting the stretched chassis
Hey what's up bud on my arrma typhon 3s I only have front wheel drive where should I start first rear diff ?
Yeah it’s probably the rear diff or the input gear broke.
@@BarstoneRC thanks bud that's kinda what I was thinking had little bigger tire and hit full throttle on the street
Yeah there’s a good chance you broke the input gear
@@BarstoneRC so I took the diff a part nothing is broken the bearing are good no diff fluid do you think that's my problem?
Is your input gear that goes into the differential connected to the center drive shaft good?
What fluid I should use in the outcast exb 8s maestro ?? Which fluid in the from diff and what fluid in the rear?
I’ve left them in stock honestly
@Bars&tone RC ok good but I see video of brand new roller and they came little empty from factory..? I should check and add if I need? And also what fluid this outcast use ?
There has been some incidents where they were empty, or only have full. I’m honestly not sure off the top of my head what’s in their factory but I would probably put 200 K in them.
@Bars&tone RC I think is 100k
@@BarstoneRC I need to check my them
Is one of your front top arms on back to front ? Great vid fella 👍🏻
I don’t think lol but I’ll double check
@@BarstoneRC 12.35 the right hand side as you look from front , curved rear part facing forward or I got wonky eyes 😂😂😂😂
Ohh that’s right I made this video a week ago before I left for work. I did have it on backwards at one point I fixed it later I forgot all about that. Lol
Do you like the ear plugs over 300k or 500k making a video tonight about %100 silicone diff fluid that I been using it's pretty awesome stuff. Your center is like almost lock with those plugs right? Might be better if you just use 500K since it's a Typhon you wanna have some slip with her in center. Since it's a a light weight 6S buggy. But hey she drive awesome on that air strip in your other videos. 👍👊
I like it because I get a lot less ballooning in the front tires and she hooks up like crazy, but the earplugs do allow a little bit of give so on the landings with the throttle open it doesn’t break stuff. And one other plus you never have to worry about the center leaking lol
@@BarstoneRC wow I didn't know that about ballooning dam that's great then. Yeah I actually like 300K in the center for my kraton EXB 6S of course. She balloons but not too bad because of the LSD diff alittle different. I'm actually gonna put 1M in my outcast and see how she does . But very hard to find these diff wights right now. EXB outcast I'm gonna do a small video later on the hobby store. Should be pretty funny
Nice looking forward to seeing it bud.
Would thoes diffs fit in the senton if my diffs stops working in my senton when I get one?
No it’s a different set up and size.
@@BarstoneRC ok I hope the diffs are ok
I lose stuff to "No whereland" ALL THE TIME 🤦🏾♂️!!!
Lol I know the feeling
Man, I'm sure you are an experienced fella who knows what you are doing, but sticking that rubbish in the center diff feels enherantly wrong or at least not the gold standard. It's a thumb down from me, but thanks for taking the time to try and help
Well it all depends on what you’re doing with the car if it’s a basher it just transfers that power better to the front and rear wheels, and since it’s silicone it still has some give many many many people do this.
Why thumbs down..its not your rig but you feel you have to let it bother ya🤦♂️
Thumbs down? It’s informative regardless
I gave your thumbs down a thumbs down . But thanks anyway
Thanks buddy