How To Power Any 120v Circuit with a Generator or Power Station - EZ Generator Switch Discount Code
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
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Finally, someone who KNOWS what they are doing with these switches and can properly explain it.
Having a small stand-by or service LED (maybe green) would be a cool addition or maybe illuminated logo. I know there isn’t a lot of room left but it’s a good looking box, it would be a nice added aesthetic.
I added 2 Leds. One red for generator on and one green for normal power! Took 30 minutes. 30 years in building electronics projects and Amateur Radio Operator.
I agree. It would be nice to have indicator lights.
@@JDDupuy What lights do you recommend? If available on Amazon, please reply with a link.
Excellent Ben! I was planning on getting one of these switches but wasn’t sure about how to wire it. Now I do. Thanks a bunch!
Good talk regarding the floating/bonded neutral situation with generators.
Really excited for the next video as I have exactly two circuits I need to keep working during a power outage. I too have an inverter generator with a floating neutral.
You do a great job explaining the how and why of what you are doing. I always look forward to seeing what you have to share. Thanks!
recently installed this. Great product.
I've had this switch in my Wish List for months. I just pulled the trigger on this item - the 10% off code worked great! Thanks!
Sweet!!!
Great talk on the floating neutral/bonded neutral. Many simply will not understand and wont bother to understand it...even some electricians. Better to be educated about it for your own knowledge. Great video!
Installed mine for gas furnace. Service receptacle on furnace is good for a floor lamp to light the common area. Works great. I wasn't interested in a full transfer switch. I can plug in battery backup system for furnace alone. Gas furnaces are bonded through gas pipe itself by code. Neutral is isolated.
Doggies are RUclips stars like yourself. Looks like a great product and your insight, knowledge and especially the conversation with the maker are exceptional ⚡️
Thank you for the video and for bringing in the mfr to provided addl info on his product. I've had this on the radar screen for years. Thanks to your video...plus the discount...I pulled the trigger and ordered. Now, let's see if I can avoid having this sit on the workbench instead of getting it done. ;-)
Very nice wiring on your panel Ben.
One more thing. There are many experts in a variety of trades but very few can teach. You my friend have the gift to teach!!
If he wants to teach, let him show you the parts list to make yourself and really do a service instead of pointing us to buy something for double the price just because of what the Maker says.
@@garysuderman174 I looked up all the parts it would cost about $30 to build this (from digi-key so not el cheapos), also I feel if someone is teaching they should prolly not show you how to wire something in a live breaker box...this guy is definitely good and informative, but at a minimum if we are gonna harp on how safe and certified yatta yatta something is and then film ourselves wiring it into a live breaker box that seems counter-intuitive.
I don’t need the product but I do finally understand that I need to set my generator to a floating neutral. Thanks!
Excellent video young man!!
i want that inventor on speed dial! that is the dude to have reach back to, incase of crap happening!! thanx for the tutorial, I have enjoyed your channel ever since you started your build! - Stay Warm, Stay safe - Ben From the Woods of Maine!!! Awesome video s00 much knowledge!
ALWAYS THOROUGH ALWAYS GREAT INFO!!!
I read a story about a guy who had solar panels on his roof, a huge battery/inverter for his house, and he used to have a hottub in his back yard. the disconnect and underground power lines still existed in his back yard. He decided to run the wires up short pole and wired 4 120v plugs to the pole. He convinced the 4 closest neighbours to each buy one of these disconnects for their furnaces and he runs extension cords to their houses if the power goes out, all powered by his batteries :)
Thank you for making this video, I started to send mine back for a refund because the company has videos that do not make any sense to me, I saw a video made by this guy and it had a green wire (I did not receive a green wire) I spent 3 hours messing with this thing and my outside temp was over 100 degrees so I was very dissatisfied with this companies tutorials. I just watch your video in its entirety and you made so much sense so Tomorrow I will try to hook this up the way you just did, Thanks so much for saving me the time it is much appreciated, I wish this company would link your videos to their website because his tutorials are total shit! This is one of the cases I would buy from China and get good instructions rather than buying American from a guy who is too lazy to reshoot his video tutorials. I am very grateful that you made such an amazing tutorial for the average person rather than speaking like a robot like the owner of this company. Subscribed!
Thank you for your video, very helpful!
An excellent video no doubt. Great explanation throughout! Just bought one of the EZ switch units which arrived last week. Great talk with the owner. He knows his product and loves to talk about it! I bought the right switch...veterans!
That's great!
Doesnt the neutral have to be isolated so it doesn’t send current back on the power lines and potentially cause a hazard for lineman? This is why im not understanding why you would connect the neutral to the panel and not isolate by using the neutral switch and generator neutral?
I have one for my furnace. Switched neutral. Mounted directly next to the furnace's existing on/off switch. Installation was a matter of pulling the existing wires out of the furnace on/off switch, redirecting them to the EZ gen transfer switch, and then running the EZ outputs into the existing furnace switch box. I'm in Canada BTW. I think that it's more common here for small portable generators to have a bonded neutral. Emphasis "I think". Not certain, I haven't carefully checked all the standards. Mine is an eight year old Champion conventional generator. BTW the furnace itself is picky about grounding because of the flame detector. The flame dectector passes a small current through the flame to the furnace's frame, which is grounded, and the control board senses that current. Hence there is a control signal passing over the furnace's ground. An unusual situation, but it's the only way to make the flame detector work. If the neutral+ground is bonded in multiple locations then the resulting ground loop will distrurb the operation of the flame sensor. Hence the furnace goes through its startup sequence, gets to the flame test, fail the test (even though there is good flame), and then shut itself down.
Didn't read all the comments so forgive me if this has already been said.
Quick error in what you said about sharing ground lug with another wire, it can only be another wire of the same size, 12 awg with 12 awg, 10 awg with 10 awg, you never want to share a 12 awg with a 10 awg because you might not get the 12 awg tight and therefore could cause a fire.
I've made a variation of this. Would like input if its done right or wrong. First, I *do not have a recepticle on my swith box* Instead is all 'direct wired" Started with a DPDT switch (which actually only operates as a SPDT (on/off/on). Also, not wiring into junction box, rather on the furnace. Took the incoming power from panel and only 'switch' the blacks. The genenerator *floating neutral* has an long extension cord plugged in to the generator. On the center (load) switch one black comes from line- the othe from line. The other blacks (load) comes from gen. *All* the whites (neutrals) are twisted all together as are all the grounds (from the line and generator) This would in essence mean the grounds from gen and line and neutrals are all one, which would then go back to the panel, thus creating a 'bonding', even though the generator has now become part of the bonding of neutrals and grounds. Is this done the right way?
I have two generators, one large and one small, and portable battery packs. The large generator has a bonded neutral for sure, but the other two I don't know for sure but suspect they are floating neutral. I may have to do some creative wiring to accommodate both.
I was one of those that had to click the correct box when ordering mine years ago. This is a great transfer switch, if you are thinking of buying one go with Kevin's and not the Chinese junk.
That's so awesome that you were one of the first!
@@user-ds4qt3ir6x Yeah about that long
Great explanation of what and why, however, long ago I made the identical switch for only a few dollars.
Okay, but is there an automatic reserve input device, or is it only suitable for generators with grounding?
It's obviously a well-built manual transfer switch for a single 120vac branch circuit. Considere your needs. In my case, I needed a 240v circuit along with four 120v circuits (water heater, refrigerator and a few lighting circuits). When grid power returns, those circuits that aren't connected to my generator will become active to let me know grid power has returned. Then I can transfer the switched circuits back to the grid and shut down my generator.
Hi thanks for the video. Can anyone explain why you would use one of there's units instead of a CHANGEOVER SWITCH din rail mounted.
That panel is textbook OCD My eye never twitching once
Can you better explain, or do a quick video on what you discuss at 6:25; connecting directly to the furnace and “wire-nutting from the existing neutrals” to the EZ Generator terminal. Does that mean connect the line and load together and also connect them to a wire leading into the terminal on the EZ switch (all 3 wire in one wire nut) or something else?
a Neutral must be bonded to Ground only one time or else when there is a fault between source and load how can the fault current in the return ground get back to the source?
Do they make an box for exterior use? My panel is outside.
The "ProPower" inverters in the Ford F150 (not just the Lightning) are bonded neutral and they have an onboard GFCI so you absolutely have to switch the neutral because otherwise the bonding in your panel will trip the GFI in the truck - been there done that. Edit and I just got to the part where he explains that ...
Good, instructive. He speaks with the manufacturer. They discuss the f150 . A d I don't understand bonded neutral?
I believe in Canada for the CSA all portable generators have to be bonded for that approval. Correct me if I am wrong
Just a question in regards to a past video. If my main panels ground and neutral were not bonded and this panel is my first and only disconnect after the meter, then my breakers would Not trip in the event of a fault ? Just trying to have your Great teaching videos sink into my old head !! 🧐
@@user-ds4qt3ir6x Thank you ! Yes I understand that the main has them bonded. Just hypothetically if they were not bonded, would the breakers Not trip if a fault occurred ?
Can you use a 3 way switch to do about the same thing?
I would think the only time you’re going to use this switch in the floating neutral is when wiring to fuse box, if wiring direct to a furnace or freezer outlet you will want a grounded neutral hookup because you are separating it from the house wiring in that instance
I think it would still be safer if left floating.
@@Cotronixco absolutely not, you will have no ground and in the case of a furnace it won’t run if no grounded neutral detected
@@donhgr No, you should never open the ground for any reason.
@@Cotronixco Incorrect, if you are connecting to a generator outlet at the fuse box there is to only be one ground and it’s the ground at your fuse box. You absolutely NEVER want two grounds EVER and with a bonded neutral you can cause a bonding issue. That’s why almost ALL generators have an Floating Neutral and it needs to be floating if using as a whole house back up and if only powering one appliance and separating it from the rest of the house you want the opposite
@@donhgrNow you're changing your arrangement. Your writing is poor. The grounding should remain intact.
Either way, current NEVER runs through proper grounding. Parallel ground distribution is fine. Parallel neutrals, multiple ground points, or multiple bonding points is not.
Again, the ground should never be opened. You said, "you will have no ground."
Floating causes two ramifications: equipment and safety. Some equipment relies on neutral being bonded (polarized plugs for example) but
the reason floating can be safer in some instances is because neither leg has any potential to ground, greatly reducing shock hazard. There are benefits to each, which is why both are still being used.
Having a bonded generator, would i need this for heat on an all electric HVAC system?
Clear as dirt. Thanks for trying. I’m an idiot.
Great video - thank you.
So if I connected the neutrals by the furnace - and have a floating neutral generator (ie Bluetti AC300 battery unit) - I will have a created a neutral bond for the entire generator - correct?
I think with the exception of WinCo, every other portable generator has a bonded neutral. Most show you how to make it floating if you plan to but out of the box I believe they are all bonded for safety sake. If you plan to plug anything into the generator directly you will need a bonded neutral for the unit to be grounded I think. Very good video as always. Thank you
Could I parallel to an addition circuit to power 2 items as long as the 2 are under the max amps of the switch ? Thank you ( enjoy your videos)
Yes, if you don't need the switched neutral. I plan to demonstrate this concept in a follow-up video.
@@user-ds4qt3ir6x Phasing wouldn't matter in this case. Every center-off switch is break before make.
I see you are using an Anker 767 which I also have so this is good information. I also have an Anker 555 which the AC output receptacle accepts a 3 prong cord but the ground hole of the Anker receptacle is fake so not actually grounding. If I used the Anker 555 with extension cord to the EZ Switch I interpret the ground connection of the EZ switch into the break box will satisfy the missing ground of the Anker receptacle and extension cord. Is that a correct understanding?
I have 3 possibilities of powering my furnace. I have Champion 5000W Inverter for whole house feed bonded which can be switched to floating neutral, battery bank for extension cord feed, and another Champion 2500W (floating neutral) inverter for extension cord feed. So, it's probably doesn't matter if I keep all the neutral wires in EZ switch box because in generator position neutral and power are insulated from bonded main breaker box. When using whole house generator with Interlock EZ switch stays in normal position. I'm going to install EZ switch soon.
What are the little wire wire labels with the numbers written on them that you are using here?
Just pieces of Romex sheathing!
I’m in SoCalifornia - my boxes are outside, although waterproof. Can this product be made safely to function outside…….???
I’m still learning the floating neutral thing. But isn’t the floating neutral in a generator still conforming to the NEC because of not bonding in a sub-panel rule? Isn’t a sub panel and a generator still secondary to the main panel so that we still ensure bonding only occurs in the main panel? So wouldn’t any device theoretically transfer bonding responsibility to the main panel?
OK one last comment when you mentioned something about running two loads or two different things off that switch I was going to mention you could eliminate all those neutral wires that are running into that switch and you can use that side of that switch for second load because that is a Double pole double throw switch to inputs for outputs to outputs per per side load in your line or your load in your line side from your generator or whatever and then your middle you know what I’m talking about six leads in or six leads on the switch and then yeah Four out two for your low panel too for generator whatever I think you know what I’m saying I know what I’m trying to say. I think you know what I’m trying to say I’m not gonna try to confuse you anymore but the point of it is yes you can run to two loads off that switch. I knew that but I wasn’t gonna say nothing was gonna wait till you mentioned it so there you go, if you really wanna get smart about it, you can take and install a second 15 amp breaker next to that other one and you can copy what he did and do it that way I promise you you’re talking off of a 15 amp input so I know that probably wouldn’t work whatever
I'm having a similar issue with an all in one inverter. Its a powmr 3000 and it's great actually but if I use the AC input to charge my battery then it pops the GFCI on the house circuit
Interesting. Is that just when you charge it while it is still being used or any time it's being charged?
@@BenjaminSahlstrom as long as the all in one is running without being connected to the house AC it is great but as soon as I plug it into the house it pops the GFCI. I can unbond the neutral and ground and it does fine when plugged into the house but as soon as it starts running from the batteries or from solar then it loses the house ground bond and it makes my camper frame have about 40 volts of AC current running thru it. Its like it needs a relay that bonds and unbonds the neutral and ground whenever it switches from AC input to battery or solar. I finally just bought a sungold power 4000 watt low frequency splitphase and it works great and never has that issue. I bought 3 victron charge controllers and I actually like the separate components alot better than the all in one units now . The sungold runs a 9000 BTU 240 volt 38 seer mini split and everything else in the camper and never misses a beat. I built 2 different batteries my primary battery is a 3p8s eve 280 ah. So it's 840 ah at 24 volts with jk 2 amp balancer BMS and my backup battery is 24 Nissan leaf modules with a jk BMS. The leaf battery never gets used anymore since I built the eve battery but it's there if I was to need it.
So is this for someone who doesn't have a generator house hookup and only needs to run one thing?
If youre only powering a furnace, go floating and run an extension cord directly to the furnace using an extension cord.
This is off topic here, but I saw your video in which you used some either BT or wifi current clamps to monitor the load in your panel. Can you provide a link or manufacturer for those current clamps? I enjoy your videos. Thanks. Dave
On a side note, if a small inverter generator is intended to be used solely with extension cords, when camping or at a farmers market etc., should the small inverter generator's neutral be bonded to ground?
I think it would be safer to leave it unbonded. If you come into contact with hot for some reason, there will then be no potential from hot to your grounded body.
Yes because the ground is designed for safety. If the equipment case becomes energized the ground provides a payh back to the generator to trip the breaker. Grounds are for safety, they provide no other function. The neutral is what completes the circuit to make your equipment operate. Electrically operated equipment will function without a ground. The ground protects you in case of a malfunction.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148 All that's going to do is energize the frame of the generator.
That’s actually pretty smart that you can switch your neutrals because we don’t know why you switch the power on there anyway is to prevent voltage from backfeeding back down line but you can also do it through your neutral on certain things so like I said, it’s smart that you could switch your neutrals just prevent voltage from bleeding back down linemaybe I’m wrong but I’m sure I’m right after all when it comes to electricity, you have to liberate every possibility
Amazon link says it’s unavailable. Can’t find it anywhere on Amazon.
This install is not up to code. The panel is not a junction box. The furnace load wire must be removed and the joints made in a separate box. Perhaps in the transfer switch box.
If you are going to the time and expense of installing this switch why not install a 30 amp generator receptacle with an Interlock safety switch? You could then select which circuits you want/need to operate based on the capacity of your generaor or power station. If you have a small generator or power station you could alternate between operating your heating system, refrigerator, microwave, wtc.
It's NOT "Always" fine to use 12-AWG when your device is rated for 15-AMP (Ergo made for 14AWG). I've come in behind well-meaning furnace installers who used a 12AWG MC Whip on 15-AMP Circuit Step-Down Fuse. The threads on the termination screw are only made to secure 14AWG and attempting to tighten a 12AWG conductor under the screw stripped the threads resulting in a loose termination and a furnace that had stopped working. (Gotta be careful when you say "Always" and "Never") 🙂
It sounds like you are learning how standby generators are installed for buildings in the USA. Obviously, standby generators have a NEC code section to follow. Did you wire your device by NEC when you modified a UL listed device? I just can't picture myself buying a UL listed automatic transfer switch device and rewiring it without the neutral switch connected.
Good luck sensing flame on the furnace if the neutral and ground are not bonded together
Рахмат
Kevin = #1
100%!
I made a male plug that ties the ground and neutral together.
No, I noticed that on the back of that switch you have black and red. You said your black goes to your basically your load that you’re wanting to control with the generator that’s fine it really doesn’t matter but generally in electrical from my understanding red is associated with black is associated with line But I guess the situation with generators it’s totally different. It really doesn’t matter just as long as the person who’s installing it knows what it goes to or what it’s for the simple effect on that would be the reverse the red with the black but that’s up to I guess that’s up to you or the user so correct me if I’m wrong, but just what I’ve been led and what I’ve been used to but like I said, it’s really whatever, whoever designed it to do so
NO WAY, The guy that makes and sells these transfer switches, is located in Gettysburg, PA not to far from me. I think the price a bit high for what's in it.
The only thing more I would have explained to your students is to described with your words, the difference between “grounding and grounded, or intentionally grounded. They are not to be confused!
By default doesn’t come as floating?
Yup, by default it's set for a bonded neutral generator. It's pretty easy to change it though as I show in the video.
Using a generator with my RV required me to make a bonding plug to plug into one of the outlets. Otherwise the RV would not accept the power
Double pole
In Germany, neutral must be switched by code and the power generator must be bonded.
But almost all power generators are floating. This means that neutral has to be grounded at one point.
Exactly the same problem
I don't see a problem having the neutral floating, except that some boilers may refuse to run if the neutral is not at ground potential (for how the circuit that senses the flame works since it uses an effect of conductivity of the flame between the electrode and ground).
You don't loose safety, in fact you improve it, because you are creating an IT earthing system (N and E isolated, something that is done with transformers in environment where you need maximum safety, such as hospitals). It's the same thing anyway that would happen if you use an UPS (N is not connected to E in an UPS, otherwise the UPS would trip an upstream RCD during normal operation!).
Even in case of a ground fault in this situation, that is L and E short circuit, nothing would happen, you need a second fault for it to be dangerous.
Why switched neutral tho
I designed mine with a dpdt 80amp 120v contactor. 50 amp grid feed / 30 amp solar inverter feed to 10 breaker sub panel that handles all the 120v wiring in house. Contactor is wifi enabled with a Shelly and a simple on/off switch on the sub-panel.
At least two code violations ( st least in my atea ). You should have at least one anchor securing the 900 box to sheet rock. White ( now called grounded conductor ) must be have ID on them to tell what circuit they are part of. Can use pre printed #'s, P touch label etc. NEC requires that you use a torque wrench or driver to properly tighten all electrical connections.In the USA we loose one life every day due to electrocution, Arc Fault or Arc Blast event so wish thet you DIY,'S wear proper PPE when you are working in an enegised panel.Another No No is he did NOT connect the wire on the circuit breaker last. First week apprentice is taught the connect the ground first and power wires last. COMMON SENSE !
91 bucks? good price for it but i already have my a double male extension cord to power my panel.
Sounds like upgrading the safety of your setup wouldn't be a bad idea! ;)
It should be closer to $82 after using the discount code.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom a little zap once and a while is good to keep the respect for the juice 😆
Sounds like a suicide cord.
@@jruggle nah, feels good. Kinda like when she squeezes your balls when going down on you.
Some inverters will blow if you wire them in to your bonded electric system like that. I'm worried I'll fry my 3000 watt inverter
I think that most companies have fixed that issue now.
I would contact the manufacturer of your inverter to check.
Also some inverters will on the neutral will put out 60v. Well, on mine it does and I bought it almost 10 years ago.
$91 for that?
Why are most devices powered by 120V and not 230V? You need less copper for 230V, which is way cheaper!
Because working with lower voltage is safer.
@@theastuteangler What the... How about high AMPERE? I dont know if you understand the topic.
@@traderjoes8725 dude go clamp your greasy mitts to some 347V. If you survive, grab hold of a 12V car battery next. You're an idiot man, save your life and dont ever touch electrical work.
Higher voltage, more efficient, shoot use 480…. Lol
@@traderjoes8725 The amperage that shocks you is the SOURCE VOLTAGE divided by the resistance of your body at the point of contact. That shock has absolutely nothing to do with the amperage capability of the circuit. 120 VAC to ground is MUCH safer than 240 VAC to ground, which we do not have in the USA.
I put in the code but zero benefits. No discount. So far every RUclips discount has netted me zero.
I'd say for what very little this device has is exactly what the maker admits, it's over priced and most people don't care if it's approved because that's why they're watching a RUclips do-it-yourself video. If wanted 100% to code, we just get it approved after it's installed by a licensed Electrician or County/City inspector.
I'll check the code now. Have had several people use it successfully already.
Just checked 10EZGENBEN and it's working. Make sure you put it in on the checkout page on Amazon after clicking the link in the description.
I would imagine most electricians will not install anything that is not approved.
I built my own transfer switch with UL certified parts and it was around $80 once it was all set. The switch was very difficult to wire properly as the instructions were not good. Having said that, this EZ transfer switch is not a bad deal.
$91 for a $15 part....
3-way switch is a lot cheaper...
No need for center OFF.
$91?
The idea of this is good but in what world is a dpdt rocker switch, a male 120v plug, and a fuse $100? Why buy this vs buying the 3 components and some wire and saving $60, furthermore if getting in the box and running the wires anyways wouldn't it be smarter to run a 30a or 50a plug and power the entire box vs 1 circuit so in the chance you upgrade gensets later nothing needs changed? Just simply turn off what you don't need and/or don't have power too. Again not being a hater and the idea is good but for the price and the install method seems more money efficient to simply install a full genset inlet, and simply kill the breakers you don't need.
Good thoughts for sure. Comes down to the use case and generator you intend to use. If you want to connect a small 120v generator, a big 50a inlet box, breaker, and interlock are probably overkill.
Of course you can always build something yourself for cheaper, but for a lot of people, using a proven and certified product is worth it.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Right I agree if using a small generator a 50a inlet box is huge overkill, but was thinking of down the line this method isn't upgradable if for example the user gets a bigger generator or wants to power more things, so a 50a genset inlet box for $50 to have that available if ever you do upgrade and saving $50 in the process seems like a no brainer, just didn't know if I was missing something is all.
@@user-ds4qt3ir6x I meant to say 3 position I apologize, or even further technical a DPDT rocker switch.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom If the neutral doesn't need to be switched, the parts are available off the shelf at Menards. A socket, a box, and a 3-way light switch which is 1-form-C.
@@Cotronixco True!
😐😵💫
🤣
Too many connections for 120 volts. Power station has very high impedance and you adding much more impedance with connections. You can bring stranded wires from breaker and install them directly to switch.
This job is done better with contactor: when grid has power, it's coil is energised and pair of contacts bridging circuit from retail company. When power is missing, contactor coil loses voltage and contacts switching to power station. In this case neutral from power station you can easily connect to NC (normally closed) contact from one side and ground from panel to other side. Floating ground is easily solved.
Sure, if you want an extra contactor powered up 99.9% of the time.
So glad I don't have American wiring 😂
Worthless. Need 240v.
Not worthless for everyone that has 120v :)