Anker SOLIX F3800 System: signaturesolar.com/anker-solix-f3800-smart-home-power-kit/?ref=ksgadwsb I would recommend purchasing your F3800 system through Signature Solar as they're a fantastic company that will be a great point of contact if you need support.
I use a hydraulic crimping tool with marine grade butt connectors when I have to crimp stuff. It seems to work acceptably for most larger wire sizes (#10-#4 for my purposes). Connecting a submersible well pump with that setup and some real good water rated heat shrink tubes is commonly a trusted connection, and that's underwater!
I like you using the screw lugs instead of the crimp on connectors. That way a DIY Does not have to have the special tool required to crimp the connector on to the end of the large gage wire. Nice personal touch, that your son and wife was there with you.
Good video, the Anker F3800 system is decent. I have two F3800's and 6 BP3800 expansion batteries and a Home Power Panel... so I am speaking from experience. Unfortunately I would not buy again because but they essentially have no customer service. And when they do firmware upgrades, they don't know the changes in specs. And they don't ship anywhere near their promised shipping and delivery time. But as for support, each call or chat takes hours and each response it automatic and says they will reply in 2 days... even for the most basic questions. So unless you're a solar expert, don't count on ANKER for any help unless you have a ton of patience.
Ben, I like the idea of using the lugs instead of the crimp connectors, I don't think I would have thought of this. I have been researching this particular setup for a few days now for a customer that can't use a generator and I'm glad I ran across your video. He wants backup power for his computer system and a few other things but it needs to be bigger than just a regular UPS. This may very well be the solution he is looking for. I'm glad you showed how it operates after you showed the installation. I like your work.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I'm guessing as long as BOTH of them are pointing toward the same direction, the HPP algorithm probably knows to ignore the direction of the current in its calculation and just takes the absolute value instead of the directional value. It'd probably be an issue if they don't point in the same direction, though. I'd still simply flip them around to follow the proper convention per the direction though if I knew that I had it wrong in the first place. It only takes a second to do.
@B.S. very good video, fun to watch showing real world family at play, BTW i know this is an old video however during a power outage you can also backup your main panel with your main backup power source it just needs to sense power coming from the grid side of the CT’s, so you can setup a transfer switch to like a generator source even if its a small 240v power station to trick the system, your main backup power source will backfeed the main panel as long as it detects power coming in for it to sync to that power source, OR another easier way is to setup an interlock kit on the main panel and backfeed the main panel from the sub panel (thats what i did), however its not a legal setup (well no electrical codes for sub panel feed main) the first way is more involve but they are codes for transfer switch, the sub backfeeding main was much simpler and it works.
Your idea for the main panel automatic transfer switch islanding is definitely technically possible as essentially that’s what the Anker switch is doing, it just was designed with the 50amp limit to keep costs down vs a system like Enphase’s Smart Switch which enables the autoswitch and microgrid formation. But Enphase costs 10x this solution AND when it directly interfaces with the main grid connection there are a bunch more regs/permitting issues vs an essential loans panel which is probably why they avoided it at first pass. I would bet that adding an Enphase Smart Switch and treating the Anker system as “generator” might work so long as Enphase plays nice (they’ve not had the best reputation interfacing with non-Enphase components).
Great video! That shutoff at the meter is handy. I’ve never had to do this but I was under the impression usually you have to cut the tag, open the cover, and pull the meter. Do most meters have a shutoff like yours?
Pulling the meter would definitely be safer yet but usually the utility company requires that you have them do that. Adding a lock would also be smart. It really varies as to whether or not you will have a disconnect at the meter. It seems like it is now becoming pretty standard though now that most areas require an outdoor emergency disconnect. I'm honestly surprised that mine has a disconnect since that panel appears to be about 100 years old... haha
Does the computer run on its own UPS? That blink, which is visible on your video, happens long enough for a desktop to crash or your NAS files to have corruption to occur. I have a big double conversion UPS, which is limited to all my hardware and specific lights around the house. This only works for about 30 min. Your setup is very interesting. I also love Anker stuff.
The black coating on that wire is specifically made to be cut off so its a black or white wire. That's why it's just a thin cover nit actual insulation.
There are two ways I would think that could be done. Option 1: If you have very light electricity needs and you think you can get by with the 50a, you could possibly connect everything down stream of the HPP. This would be really awesome however it would likely require that you use gas for your heat, clothes dryer, and range. Your AC would also have to be fairly small so this would likely only work in a smaller house (like mine lol). Option 2: Just plug in the F3800 into a manual generator inlet box connected to an interlocked breaker at your main panel. I believe Anker is going to come out with a device to allow you to use two F3800s for 12,000 watts that will work with this later this year.
Loved this video. Would you mind making one on the rooftop solar integration feature? I bought this system, and have existing rooftop solar, but my electrician doesn't think the rooftop solar will work when the grid power is down
Hi, great vid! 2 questions: 1.) Can you use other batteries with the solix? 2.) Has installing the lugs instead of the crimp ends essentially replaced ferrules? I dont see them in electrical dept. anymore... Old school diy-er...
Crimps work well with low strand count(coarse) wire. Screw lugs with with low strand counts are easy to loosen simply by moving the cable back and forth. People say torque once and never again but the cable itself can turn the screw??? Gotta say Hmm...worries me a little bit. I see that with low cost VFD cable. Cable is good electrically but is soooo stiff that just moving it in the loosen direction loosens screws. In that case, IMO a crimp is better.
We are planning totally off grid. If we use the Anker power panel - with two F3800's, what will that schematic look like? No grid in. Pairing 3800's is done through the Power panel
Thank you for this video. This is the best explanation I’ve seen. Could you have installed the larger circuits on the sub-panel if you wanted, or should the should it be limited to 120 circuits when using the home panel? I have a couple sub-panels I would like to access through the backup mode, but turn off as desired.
I think you can technically move ALL your home circuits to the sub panel if you want, as long as you just get a bigger sub-panel instead of using the 12 circuit one that comes with it. I think you can just buy the HPP standalone without the sub panel as an option. However, the HPP calls for 50A max going to the sub panel with 2 F3800s (25A max with 1 F3800), so that would be your limitation. Basically you'd be downrating your 200A service to the whole house down to 50A service if you go this way during normal grid operation.
Its an awesome system so far from what you've shown. The concern I have , is app based management systems get outdated, or the vendor bankrupts / stops supporting version X of the app. Not compatible with Android/Iphone version XYZ. Unless it has an open-source app, or a dedicated web interface that is available regardless of devices, its a no from me, regardless how cool it is.
So I have a question... Why did you choose to use stranded wire instead of solid wire? I am getting ready to install an inlet box for my generator and I picked up solid wire. I chose to use 10 gauge solid for the 30 amp circuit I'll be running. Are you supposed to use stranded?
Camping knife = wire stripper 😊 Stranded wires connecting without ferrule to check tightened contacts 7 times. Ferrules cost approximately $4 for 250 pieces, but checking if stranded wires are tightened enough many times will be more interesting and time spending.
Trust me, there's nothing sexier in my opinion, than a woman who not only supports her man but also wants to learn and become knowledgeable to become self sufficient as well. That really is a beautiful wife. 😏
Great video.. Can I ask roughly how many hours it took to set up the whole system? Looking to install something similar but not an electrician so curious how much more to add to the budget to pay someone smart enough to do the install. Keep up the good work
Does having the Home Power Panel increase the total amps? The Solix 3800 is rated for 25 amps but you said a few times that the Home Power Panel can handle 50 amps. I have 1 Solix 3800 and am considering the Home Power Panel. If it increases the total amps, that would be a big benefit. I also have one expansion battery but that shouldn't chnage the total amps- just increases the watts. Thank you for the video! Very helpful!
I'm not 100% sure if I understand the question. My understanding is that the backup panel that is being fed by the HPP can deliver a maximum of 50a. That current can be either supplied by the F3800 power station (6,000 watts for one unit or 12,000 for two) OR the grid. I don't think it is additive to where you could have 50a from the grid and 50a from the F3800(s). I definitely plan to do more testing to see what happens under different load conditions. So far I'm pretty impressed with how the HPP integrates with the F3800. It seems like there is some pretty valuable information in the F3800 FB group. I know I've personally seen some interesting stuff over there.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom The HPP calls for 25A max on the backup load side for 1 F3800 connection, and 50A max for 2 F3800 on the backup load side. 25A max per 120V leg equals 6000W for 1 F3800, so the math adds up correctly. With 2 F3800s, the HPP can handle 50A max on the backup load side, totaling 12 KW output, but ONLY when the grid is down. In the grid-up TOU mode, the power output is derated between 1.9 KW increment for each 3.8 KWH of capacity, up to 6 KW output top.
I'm confused by Anker's instructions, it says to point the Current Transformer clamps towards the source of the power, like in your video, but if you look at their instruction manual all 3 are pointed down, or towards the panel. Wouldn't L1 and/or L2 point up towards the power source?
34:37 but why not just put everything in the “back up panel” or install your “main panel” on the backup side and put the CT on the cables that comes from the grid and install the main cables on the “main panel” side of the smart home panel. You move everything to the backup side and that will be your new main panel and everything will have power when the grid is off and still reduce energy cost. If you need more power on the backup side then add a second F3800. In conclusion… Connect the main grid directly to the grid side of the smart panel with the CT pointing to the source, then connect your main panel to the “back up” side of the anker smart home panel and wala! If you want to add additional step in case the anker devices get damaged or stop working, then add a transfer switch… one connection to by pass the anker smart panel and get the grid directly to the main home panel and the other side of the transfer will have the anker smart panel conected to your home main panel.
If all of your home loads can be serviced by 50A max then you can move ALL your home circuits to a large enough backup panel to accommodate them all, because the HPP can only support up to 50A max on the backup load side with 2 F3800. However, the HPP never mentioned that the main grid lines can be moved to the backup load side, so not knowing enough about their design, I would NEVER EVER do anything they don't allow me to do. I would still leave the main panel to be on the grid side of the HPP connection, along with any load-side-tap AC coupled solar. I would NEVER move the load-side-tap AC solar over the the backup side either. There's a very high possibility that the HPP has designed its AC coupling circuitries for the grid side only, and the backup load side does not do AC coupling. After all, the backup load side is supposed to be for home loads only, it's not for AC coupled drivers like the F3800 or the AC coupled solar, or the AC coupled grid power.
You stated that the Anker has a maximum 50 amp output thru the sub panel.. But I noticed that the main breaker on your sub panel is 100 amp. But the panel in the parts list is a 125 amp Square D panel. Did you change the main breaker or is this a different panel or does it matter ? Also, I gave a 3,000 sq ft house and the electrician used 38 circuits. Any suggestions how to get this down to 50 amps with such a wide spread of usage ?
If the main does nit get turned off how are you not backfeeding to the grid in a power outage ? We would be using a interlock kit in a portable generator set up , another question is do you have to add a sub panel ? You can't just hook it up to a main breaker box ?
The HPP will not backfeed (it will disengage with the main panel) if it detects a grid-down situation. At that point, it will only engage with the backup load side to power the sub panel. Any load-side-tap AC coupled solar inverter would turn off in the main panel as well. If you use an interlock kit to power the main panel with a generator, I think the HPP will probably assume that grid is back on even though it's powered by the generator. Adding the sub panel is strictly optional. The HPP IS hooked up to the main breaker box on its grid side connection. With no connection on the backup load side (no sub panel), then the HPP only operates in the grid-on Time of Use mode and Self Consumption mode without operating in the back up mode.
question..... if you have a service box with a shut off switch and it is bonded. and you have a main box inside the house and connect a generator on it with a back feed and lock out switch. when you shut off the main box switch will the bonding on the service box still be good for the generator system ???????? or do you have to turn off the switch on the service box too.
I need to connect a smart home panel, however all of the videos and diagrams have the current transformers on one of two wires. All showing a 200amp circuit. My house has 4 wires as the 200 amps are spread across the multiple 100amp circuits. No matter what I attach the L1 current transformer to, the system tells me it’s not connected. Any idea how to fix this or what it should be connected to?
One of the things I have been trying to figure out about this sort of setup is when running two F3800's. If I want to charge from directly connected solar, would each 3800 need its own set of solar panels, or would 3800 #1 share charge with #2?
Each F3800 has 2 solar input connections that are totally separate from the other F3800, nothing is shared at that level. But of course the solar energy that goes into each F3800 will eventually contribute together with the other F3800 solar energy to power the HPP together.
How long are the wires on those current clamps? I'm seriously considering this unit but I don't have room within 10-15' of my main panel to install the home power panel.
The CT wires are only 16 ft long, so the HPP calls for its location to be within 16 ft of the main panel. However, CT wires can be spliced and extended up to as long as 100 ft if necessary. In my situation, I built my own twisted pair 50 ft long CT wires to extend it out to where I want my HPP/F3800 setup to be and it works just fine. Commercially available CT twisted wires run $220/100 ft, I built the equivalent for $30. Of course you'll need to extend your grid-side power lines to just as long.
could you use 2 anker panels and 2 F3800 (one for each panel) and those panels would have 1 sub-panel each.. essentially doubling how many circuits would be in backup mode ?
There's no point in doing what you're suggesting because the HPP is not restricting the sub panel to be 12 circuits at all. Just don't buy the included 12-circuit sub panel from that kit and buy only the HPP. Then buy your own bigger sub panel like a 24 circuit if you want. The only limitation is that the HPP with 1 F3800 can only deliver 25A max to each 120V leg in the sub panel, and with 2 F3800s will deliver 50A max to each 120V leg of the backup load sub panel.
@@PhongNguyen-ov7jq ok but you are limited by the amps of the breaker going to that sub panel so this is why i asked about 2 units and go beyond the max amps of 1 sub panel
Try buying colored electrical tape next time and just phasing the wires. A lot cheaper than buying 100 feet of white wire. I’m an electrician and trust me it’s code. All you have to do is mark the wire with the appropriate color. Also, these units are only running about 25 or 30 A. I ran number six and put it on a 70 amp breaker instead of running number four for 100 amp breaker
And you can re-identify any size wire I don’t know who told you that you can do it because it’s number four, but that’s BS. The code allows you to re-identify any wire if necessary in fact it requires you to under certain circumstances.
I've seen conflicting information on this too. It's been working fine like this but according to some documentation I agree that I may have misunderstood this. Might cut out that bit of the video.
Seems to be simpler if everything would just run off a battery generator at all times, and the battery just charges from the available energy, be it solar, turbine, and or grid. Then, when the power does fail, it wouldn't even be noticed until the battery is depleted. At least that's what I would want. I'd also want to get off the grid entirely by having my power managed to only use battery power and it is recharged by solar, wind, and or water turbines. These power companies have been stealing from customers long enough and it is time the consumers have the "power" to fight back. See what I did there ? As for Nolox, or whatever, I say just avoid aluminum wire completely. If you plan to buy a house, and cannot afford to rewire it, either stipulate they give you a rewire allowance, require them to rewire it, or don't buy the house. Learned that the hard way too. In a condo. It's nice to have "little helpers" With the rise of these batteries and such, I am getting away from combining grounds and neutrals, regardless if it main box or not. They should be separated just for an extra layer of safety assurance. Curious where you are. The information box says this was a month ago and you showed snow... It's been like summer last month here, which was April, as it is now May and up to 90 F degrees now. I've had a few problems with these wire clamps too. I think they changed the design. In my case, I'd tighten them down and the entire wire broke. Imagine not knowing or even thinking of that and trying to trouble shoot why something isn't working when put all back together. So yeah, another something that has been changed, because someone wasn't happy and had to fix something that wasn't broken, causing new problems for the rest of us. Oy vey ! Bigger boxes behoove the consumer. Always better to have more room than you need, than not enough. Also, for future where you might need more room.
You should use antioxidant regardless. And definitely it’s aluminum wire. You should really stop giving people bad information. I’ve been an electrician 30 years.
@BenjaminSahlstrom You know the advice your giving is illegal to do unless you're an electrician, right? Cause it seems like you're explaining it to "anyone willing to put in the work." #IBEW
Anker SOLIX F3800 System: signaturesolar.com/anker-solix-f3800-smart-home-power-kit/?ref=ksgadwsb
I would recommend purchasing your F3800 system through Signature Solar as they're a fantastic company that will be a great point of contact if you need support.
I was taught to run a service loop for wiring from an old journeyman in 1970 it has served me well, carry on young man. good content
Appreciating the clarity and close up shots used in this video. 👍
I use a hydraulic crimping tool with marine grade butt connectors when I have to crimp stuff. It seems to work acceptably for most larger wire sizes (#10-#4 for my purposes). Connecting a submersible well pump with that setup and some real good water rated heat shrink tubes is commonly a trusted connection, and that's underwater!
We all really need a way to properly nondestructively test crimps. I wish I had access to some kind of portable x ray 🤣
I like you using the screw lugs instead of the crimp on connectors. That way a DIY Does not have to have the special tool required to crimp the connector on to the end of the large gage wire. Nice personal touch, that your son and wife was there with you.
Hello there , how are you doing today?God bless you!!!❤
I like to use plastic entry clamps/fittings… they work like Chinese finger cuffs and work great, they’re cheap and code compliant.
I actually like them as well to be honest and have used them in junction boxes pretty frequently. I just prefer the look of the metal ones for panels.
This was very interesting and you explain things very well so people can understand. Thank you.
Good video, the Anker F3800 system is decent. I have two F3800's and 6 BP3800 expansion batteries and a Home Power Panel... so I am speaking from experience. Unfortunately I would not buy again because but they essentially have no customer service. And when they do firmware upgrades, they don't know the changes in specs. And they don't ship anywhere near their promised shipping and delivery time. But as for support, each call or chat takes hours and each response it automatic and says they will reply in 2 days... even for the most basic questions. So unless you're a solar expert, don't count on ANKER for any help unless you have a ton of patience.
You explain things very clearly.
I’m looking forward to see how you extend the wiring to the new panel
Ben, I like the idea of using the lugs instead of the crimp connectors, I don't think I would have thought of this. I have been researching this particular setup for a few days now for a customer that can't use a generator and I'm glad I ran across your video. He wants backup power for his computer system and a few other things but it needs to be bigger than just a regular UPS. This may very well be the solution he is looking for. I'm glad you showed how it operates after you showed the installation. I like your work.
Good job. Like it that you do not talk 100/hr. Hi to the Mrs.
Smart to use those lugs.
Good idea electric emp Shield for your circuit breaker,😊
Awsome presentation 👌
Thx a lot for the vid.
The CTs should be facing towards the panel not the grid.
I believe you are correct. I'm not sure how, but it worked just fine this way.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I'm guessing as long as BOTH of them are pointing toward the same direction, the HPP algorithm probably knows to ignore the direction of the current in its calculation and just takes the absolute value instead of the directional value. It'd probably be an issue if they don't point in the same direction, though. I'd still simply flip them around to follow the proper convention per the direction though if I knew that I had it wrong in the first place. It only takes a second to do.
@B.S. very good video, fun to watch showing real world family at play, BTW i know this is an old video however during a power outage you can also backup your main panel with your main backup power source it just needs to sense power coming from the grid side of the CT’s, so you can setup a transfer switch to like a generator source even if its a small 240v power station to trick the system, your main backup power source will backfeed the main panel as long as it detects power coming in for it to sync to that power source, OR another easier way is to setup an interlock kit on the main panel and backfeed the main panel from the sub panel (thats what i did), however its not a legal setup (well no electrical codes for sub panel feed main) the first way is more involve but they are codes for transfer switch, the sub backfeeding main was much simpler and it works.
Your idea for the main panel automatic transfer switch islanding is definitely technically possible as essentially that’s what the Anker switch is doing, it just was designed with the 50amp limit to keep costs down vs a system like Enphase’s Smart Switch which enables the autoswitch and microgrid formation. But Enphase costs 10x this solution AND when it directly interfaces with the main grid connection there are a bunch more regs/permitting issues vs an essential loans panel which is probably why they avoided it at first pass. I would bet that adding an Enphase Smart Switch and treating the Anker system as “generator” might work so long as Enphase plays nice (they’ve not had the best reputation interfacing with non-Enphase components).
Interesting! Thanks for sharing that information. I need to learn more about Enphase.
Great video! That shutoff at the meter is handy. I’ve never had to do this but I was under the impression usually you have to cut the tag, open the cover, and pull the meter. Do most meters have a shutoff like yours?
Pulling the meter would definitely be safer yet but usually the utility company requires that you have them do that. Adding a lock would also be smart.
It really varies as to whether or not you will have a disconnect at the meter. It seems like it is now becoming pretty standard though now that most areas require an outdoor emergency disconnect. I'm honestly surprised that mine has a disconnect since that panel appears to be about 100 years old... haha
@@BenjaminSahlstrompulling the meter under load is not safe and not recommended.
Does the computer run on its own UPS? That blink, which is visible on your video, happens long enough for a desktop to crash or your NAS files to have corruption to occur. I have a big double conversion UPS, which is limited to all my hardware and specific lights around the house. This only works for about 30 min. Your setup is very interesting. I also love Anker stuff.
Having an additional UPS with desktop computers & other sensitive electronics is probably still a great plan.
Great idea EMP proof
The black coating on that wire is specifically made to be cut off so its a black or white wire. That's why it's just a thin cover nit actual insulation.
Is there a way to provide “whole home” backup instead of just the sub panel with the Solix?
There are two ways I would think that could be done.
Option 1: If you have very light electricity needs and you think you can get by with the 50a, you could possibly connect everything down stream of the HPP. This would be really awesome however it would likely require that you use gas for your heat, clothes dryer, and range. Your AC would also have to be fairly small so this would likely only work in a smaller house (like mine lol).
Option 2: Just plug in the F3800 into a manual generator inlet box connected to an interlocked breaker at your main panel. I believe Anker is going to come out with a device to allow you to use two F3800s for 12,000 watts that will work with this later this year.
Great job. Funny wife.
I wish I had your skills. I would save a lot of $$. Keep up the good work!
Hello there , how are you doing today?God bless you!!!❤
Do you think you could use the home power panel without a sub panel and put the backup side wires back to your main panel?
Loved this video. Would you mind making one on the rooftop solar integration feature? I bought this system, and have existing rooftop solar, but my electrician doesn't think the rooftop solar will work when the grid power is down
I believe they use the 100 amp feeding the home panel is if you use two F3800 units. 🤷♂️
Hi, great vid! 2 questions: 1.) Can you use other batteries with the solix? 2.) Has installing the lugs instead of the crimp ends essentially replaced ferrules? I dont see them in electrical dept. anymore... Old school diy-er...
Which camera and lens are you using? Congratulations on the video
haha it was killing me too nice work ✌🏻💯
Crimps work well with low strand count(coarse) wire. Screw lugs with with low strand counts are easy to loosen simply by moving the cable back and forth. People say torque once and never again but the cable itself can turn the screw??? Gotta say Hmm...worries me a little bit. I see that with low cost VFD cable. Cable is good electrically but is soooo stiff that just moving it in the loosen direction loosens screws. In that case, IMO a crimp is better.
We are planning totally off grid. If we use the Anker power panel - with two F3800's, what will that schematic look like? No grid in.
Pairing 3800's is done through the Power panel
How is the 50 amp feeder being protected from the battery back-up equipment to the sub-panel?
Thank you for this video. This is the best explanation I’ve seen. Could you have installed the larger circuits on the sub-panel if you wanted, or should the should it be limited to 120 circuits when using the home panel? I have a couple sub-panels I would like to access through the backup mode, but turn off as desired.
I think you can technically move ALL your home circuits to the sub panel if you want, as long as you just get a bigger sub-panel instead of using the 12 circuit one that comes with it. I think you can just buy the HPP standalone without the sub panel as an option. However, the HPP calls for 50A max going to the sub panel with 2 F3800s (25A max with 1 F3800), so that would be your limitation. Basically you'd be downrating your 200A service to the whole house down to 50A service if you go this way during normal grid operation.
Its an awesome system so far from what you've shown. The concern I have , is app based management systems get outdated, or the vendor bankrupts / stops supporting version X of the app. Not compatible with Android/Iphone version XYZ.
Unless it has an open-source app, or a dedicated web interface that is available regardless of devices, its a no from me, regardless how cool it is.
Awesome job, brother!! Always very interesting, and you are knowledgeable.
Thanks Matt! How's life been treating you lately?
I am doing pretty good, buddy. Thank you! How are you?
@MGPackers Staying busy! You going to go see the solar eclipse?
@BenjaminSahlstrom I am planning on it, and it is really cool. How about you?
Great Job!
Nice presentation. What size conduit did you use to run the 3 awg wiring from the main panel to the HPP to the sub panel?
So I have a question... Why did you choose to use stranded wire instead of solid wire? I am getting ready to install an inlet box for my generator and I picked up solid wire. I chose to use 10 gauge solid for the 30 amp circuit I'll be running. Are you supposed to use stranded?
Camping knife = wire stripper 😊
Stranded wires connecting without ferrule to check tightened contacts 7 times. Ferrules cost approximately $4 for 250 pieces, but checking if stranded wires are tightened enough many times will be more interesting and time spending.
Lol, I love that you left your wife on the right side of the screen even though her part was done. 😂 Great wife!
Trust me, there's nothing sexier in my opinion, than a woman who not only supports her man but also wants to learn and become knowledgeable to become self sufficient as well. That really is a beautiful wife. 😏
Never keep a girl waiting 😊
I’m not an electrician so I don’t really know. …….. Can you spray paint the blk cable to white? Just a thought.
Great video.. Can I ask roughly how many hours it took to set up the whole system? Looking to install something similar but not an electrician so curious how much more to add to the budget to pay someone smart enough to do the install. Keep up the good work
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
You bet!
Does having the Home Power Panel increase the total amps? The Solix 3800 is rated for 25 amps but you said a few times that the Home Power Panel can handle 50 amps. I have 1 Solix 3800 and am considering the Home Power Panel. If it increases the total amps, that would be a big benefit. I also have one expansion battery but that shouldn't chnage the total amps- just increases the watts. Thank you for the video! Very helpful!
I'm not 100% sure if I understand the question. My understanding is that the backup panel that is being fed by the HPP can deliver a maximum of 50a. That current can be either supplied by the F3800 power station (6,000 watts for one unit or 12,000 for two) OR the grid. I don't think it is additive to where you could have 50a from the grid and 50a from the F3800(s).
I definitely plan to do more testing to see what happens under different load conditions. So far I'm pretty impressed with how the HPP integrates with the F3800.
It seems like there is some pretty valuable information in the F3800 FB group. I know I've personally seen some interesting stuff over there.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom The HPP calls for 25A max on the backup load side for 1 F3800 connection, and 50A max for 2 F3800 on the backup load side. 25A max per 120V leg equals 6000W for 1 F3800, so the math adds up correctly. With 2 F3800s, the HPP can handle 50A max on the backup load side, totaling 12 KW output, but ONLY when the grid is down. In the grid-up TOU mode, the power output is derated between 1.9 KW increment for each 3.8 KWH of capacity, up to 6 KW output top.
In the app…. Can you set an alarm that will tell you when it switches to the backup power?
Good morning. What size conduit did you use? Thanks.
I'm confused by Anker's instructions, it says to point the Current Transformer clamps towards the source of the power, like in your video, but if you look at their instruction manual all 3 are pointed down, or towards the panel. Wouldn't L1 and/or L2 point up towards the power source?
Real good one !!!
Great video. Very informative and enjoyable to watch. You provide many good tips for doing this type of work.
What happens if my main panel has a 200a breaker? what do I need to do?
34:37 but why not just put everything in the “back up panel” or install your “main panel” on the backup side and put the CT on the cables that comes from the grid and install the main cables on the “main panel” side of the smart home panel. You move everything to the backup side and that will be your new main panel and everything will have power when the grid is off and still reduce energy cost. If you need more power on the backup side then add a second F3800. In conclusion… Connect the main grid directly to the grid side of the smart panel with the CT pointing to the source, then connect your main panel to the “back up” side of the anker smart home panel and wala! If you want to add additional step in case the anker devices get damaged or stop working, then add a transfer switch… one connection to by pass the anker smart panel and get the grid directly to the main home panel and the other side of the transfer will have the anker smart panel conected to your home main panel.
If all of your home loads can be serviced by 50A max then you can move ALL your home circuits to a large enough backup panel to accommodate them all, because the HPP can only support up to 50A max on the backup load side with 2 F3800. However, the HPP never mentioned that the main grid lines can be moved to the backup load side, so not knowing enough about their design, I would NEVER EVER do anything they don't allow me to do. I would still leave the main panel to be on the grid side of the HPP connection, along with any load-side-tap AC coupled solar. I would NEVER move the load-side-tap AC solar over the the backup side either. There's a very high possibility that the HPP has designed its AC coupling circuitries for the grid side only, and the backup load side does not do AC coupling. After all, the backup load side is supposed to be for home loads only, it's not for AC coupled drivers like the F3800 or the AC coupled solar, or the AC coupled grid power.
Any issues since installing?
You stated that the Anker has a maximum 50 amp output thru the sub panel.. But I noticed that the main breaker on your sub panel is 100 amp. But the panel in the parts list is a 125 amp Square D panel. Did you change the main breaker or is this a different panel or does it matter ?
Also, I gave a 3,000 sq ft house and the electrician used 38 circuits. Any suggestions how to get this down to 50 amps with such a wide spread of usage ?
If the main does nit get turned off how are you not backfeeding to the grid in a power outage ? We would be using a interlock kit in a portable generator set up , another question is do you have to add a sub panel ? You can't just hook it up to a main breaker box ?
The HPP will not backfeed (it will disengage with the main panel) if it detects a grid-down situation. At that point, it will only engage with the backup load side to power the sub panel. Any load-side-tap AC coupled solar inverter would turn off in the main panel as well. If you use an interlock kit to power the main panel with a generator, I think the HPP will probably assume that grid is back on even though it's powered by the generator.
Adding the sub panel is strictly optional. The HPP IS hooked up to the main breaker box on its grid side connection. With no connection on the backup load side (no sub panel), then the HPP only operates in the grid-on Time of Use mode and Self Consumption mode without operating in the back up mode.
question..... if you have a service box with a shut off switch and it is bonded. and you have a main box inside the house and connect a generator on it with a back feed and lock out switch. when you shut off the main box switch will the bonding on the service box still be good for the generator system ???????? or do you have to turn off the switch on the service box too.
I need to connect a smart home panel, however all of the videos and diagrams have the current transformers on one of two wires. All showing a 200amp circuit.
My house has 4 wires as the 200 amps are spread across the multiple 100amp circuits. No matter what I attach the L1 current transformer to, the system tells me it’s not connected. Any idea how to fix this or what it should be connected to?
Nice job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
One of the things I have been trying to figure out about this sort of setup is when running two F3800's. If I want to charge from directly connected solar, would each 3800 need its own set of solar panels, or would 3800 #1 share charge with #2?
Each F3800 has 2 solar input connections that are totally separate from the other F3800, nothing is shared at that level. But of course the solar energy that goes into each F3800 will eventually contribute together with the other F3800 solar energy to power the HPP together.
How long are the wires on those current clamps? I'm seriously considering this unit but I don't have room within 10-15' of my main panel to install the home power panel.
The CT wires are only 16 ft long, so the HPP calls for its location to be within 16 ft of the main panel. However, CT wires can be spliced and extended up to as long as 100 ft if necessary. In my situation, I built my own twisted pair 50 ft long CT wires to extend it out to where I want my HPP/F3800 setup to be and it works just fine. Commercially available CT twisted wires run $220/100 ft, I built the equivalent for $30. Of course you'll need to extend your grid-side power lines to just as long.
could you use 2 anker panels and 2 F3800 (one for each panel) and those panels would have 1 sub-panel each.. essentially doubling how many circuits would be in backup mode ?
There's no point in doing what you're suggesting because the HPP is not restricting the sub panel to be 12 circuits at all. Just don't buy the included 12-circuit sub panel from that kit and buy only the HPP. Then buy your own bigger sub panel like a 24 circuit if you want. The only limitation is that the HPP with 1 F3800 can only deliver 25A max to each 120V leg in the sub panel, and with 2 F3800s will deliver 50A max to each 120V leg of the backup load sub panel.
@@PhongNguyen-ov7jq ok but you are limited by the amps of the breaker going to that sub panel so this is why i asked about 2 units and go beyond the max amps of 1 sub panel
Gm Bengy very smart keep it up
“My OCD nature often times costs me a lot of time”
“I’m going off of memory from a measurement I took yesterday”
So which one is it? OCD or wing it?
Smart panel video in the future i see
I hope you're right about that!
Try buying colored electrical tape next time and just phasing the wires. A lot cheaper than buying 100 feet of white wire. I’m an electrician and trust me it’s code. All you have to do is mark the wire with the appropriate color. Also, these units are only running about 25 or 30 A. I ran number six and put it on a 70 amp breaker instead of running number four for 100 amp breaker
And you can re-identify any size wire I don’t know who told you that you can do it because it’s number four, but that’s BS. The code allows you to re-identify any wire if necessary in fact it requires you to under certain circumstances.
I think the arrow source is in the wrong way 23:01
I've seen conflicting information on this too. It's been working fine like this but according to some documentation I agree that I may have misunderstood this. Might cut out that bit of the video.
Yer an artist
You explained things in a way that even I feel like i can do it... granted, i'd probably electrocute myself
I was under the impression all conduit ran inside was to be metal for grounding reasons.
Metal is recommended for mechanical protection. PVC is allowed inside the house in most situations, contact AHJ to verify.
Iin the countries of the former USSR, the multi-wire cable must be crimped.
As opposed to using mechanical lugs?
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Mechanical lugs are very little used, Local regulations require crimping.
Seems to be simpler if everything would just run off a battery generator at all times, and the battery just charges from the available energy, be it solar, turbine, and or grid. Then, when the power does fail, it wouldn't even be noticed until the battery is depleted. At least that's what I would want. I'd also want to get off the grid entirely by having my power managed to only use battery power and it is recharged by solar, wind, and or water turbines. These power companies have been stealing from customers long enough and it is time the consumers have the "power" to fight back. See what I did there ?
As for Nolox, or whatever, I say just avoid aluminum wire completely. If you plan to buy a house, and cannot afford to rewire it, either stipulate they give you a rewire allowance, require them to rewire it, or don't buy the house. Learned that the hard way too. In a condo.
It's nice to have "little helpers"
With the rise of these batteries and such, I am getting away from combining grounds and neutrals, regardless if it main box or not. They should be separated just for an extra layer of safety assurance.
Curious where you are. The information box says this was a month ago and you showed snow... It's been like summer last month here, which was April, as it is now May and up to 90 F degrees now.
I've had a few problems with these wire clamps too. I think they changed the design. In my case, I'd tighten them down and the entire wire broke. Imagine not knowing or even thinking of that and trying to trouble shoot why something isn't working when put all back together. So yeah, another something that has been changed, because someone wasn't happy and had to fix something that wasn't broken, causing new problems for the rest of us. Oy vey !
Bigger boxes behoove the consumer. Always better to have more room than you need, than not enough. Also, for future where you might need more room.
Why would you just wrap it in a white tape it’s your home True
Are you serious?
I do my best to abide by the NEC. Also, it was a great opportunity to discuss the code relating to this concept.
Also next time you are in that panel 10 years from now you will forget.
You could just touch your tongue to wire while holding ground or neutral to see if it's hot but not my recommended way...
You should use antioxidant regardless. And definitely it’s aluminum wire. You should really stop giving people bad information. I’ve been an electrician 30 years.
@BenjaminSahlstrom You know the advice your giving is illegal to do unless you're an electrician, right? Cause it seems like you're explaining it to "anyone willing to put in the work." #IBEW
You should put a disclaimer to protect yourself, assuming you're an electrician. Otherwise, you're just YouTubing your crimes.
Typical husband.... just leave the wife standing there.
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ruclips.net/video/9OJI1mkySdA/видео.htmlsi=OMMztEsMs2RPW0bc
Shouldn't the Anker app, on both of your phones, send you a message saying the grid power is out and you're now on battery?