Are you saying the the 150mm lens isn't giving your clear enough burns on glass with only a 5watt laser or is it too slow in getting the image quality?
You dont use power for controlling a UV, it's entirely handled by pulse width and frequency. Power is meaningless for UV, whether you're in ezcad, lightburn, anywhere, its typically grayed out but if it isn't you still wont get a change in output if you cranked it. A 150 lens will give you more focal range, which is where a lot of people struggle, but if you find its specifically power you're struggling with, a 110 like you said would help. I find a 150 to be a nice happy medium personally. If you go much bigger than 175, even 200, you really start to feel the power drop off exponentially, and you'll really struggle with glass being that its harder to mark than most anything else, but 150 does fantastic for me, big enough for long glasses and I use a rotary for anything round. Project marking/cylinder correction kinda sucks on UV because of the really shallow focal range inherent to the wavelength and is where 3D shines if thats something you actually need, but you lose out on lightburn which is a bummer.
Have you done any comparison testing of tumblers and pens using the UV laser as compared to your CO2 galvo and fiber lasers as to speed and quaity of engraving?
You don't adjust POWER on a UV LASER they operate at same input power and you adjust frequency, Speed and q pulse duration.. with pass count. there should be a Greyed out box for your power setting.. P.s. UV is really way to specific to be useful in a a shop not specialized in glass.. COMMARKER Omni is a better version of this style laser.. ruclips.net/video/7OISHSBckUo/видео.htmlsi=OCxIu5Xgtr5In20T
I would love for you to go into some setting for the different material for the Uv laser
Look for Q pulse, this is what control power for a UV laser, normally, 1 has more power that let's say 20, hope this help, Jeff
Came here to say this lol
@@bdubz0r Maybe I'm dumb, but I don't understand what you mean.
@@bdubz0r Maybe I'm dumb, but I don't understand what you mean.
You've collected all of the laser infinity stones. Now you can snap your fingers and make any job possible.
I'm surprised you haven't set up your big laser yet? It can do all those materials in 15-30 seconds
Are you saying the the 150mm lens isn't giving your clear enough burns on glass with only a 5watt laser or is it too slow in getting the image quality?
I was able to get it to work, but a smaller lense would allow the limited power to focus more. Thus making it easier to engrave.
@ttms By easier, do you mean less passes?
Newbie question. What's the difference between the UV laser and a fiber laser? The seem the same to me.
Simplified answer
Fiber - strong, fast, metal-friendly
UV - precise, gentle, non-metal material
You dont use power for controlling a UV, it's entirely handled by pulse width and frequency. Power is meaningless for UV, whether you're in ezcad, lightburn, anywhere, its typically grayed out but if it isn't you still wont get a change in output if you cranked it. A 150 lens will give you more focal range, which is where a lot of people struggle, but if you find its specifically power you're struggling with, a 110 like you said would help. I find a 150 to be a nice happy medium personally. If you go much bigger than 175, even 200, you really start to feel the power drop off exponentially, and you'll really struggle with glass being that its harder to mark than most anything else, but 150 does fantastic for me, big enough for long glasses and I use a rotary for anything round. Project marking/cylinder correction kinda sucks on UV because of the really shallow focal range inherent to the wavelength and is where 3D shines if thats something you actually need, but you lose out on lightburn which is a bummer.
Daron, thanks for the uv video. Heve your viewers check out the new ComMarker Omni 1 UV laser coming out about Nov 15, 24
Have you done any comparison testing of tumblers and pens using the UV laser as compared to your CO2 galvo and fiber lasers as to speed and quaity of engraving?
I do glass on the 20w D1 Xtool. Just have to use Cermark on it first.
You don't adjust POWER on a UV LASER they operate at same input power and you adjust frequency, Speed and q pulse duration.. with pass count.
there should be a Greyed out box for your power setting.. P.s. UV is really way to specific to be useful in a a shop not specialized in glass..
COMMARKER Omni is a better version of this style laser..
ruclips.net/video/7OISHSBckUo/видео.htmlsi=OCxIu5Xgtr5In20T