I've installed many thousands of squares of shingles, Red Cedar, Hemlock (white cedar), Redwood, Cyprus. A proper bundle is 33.3 square ft., 3 bundles to a square (100 square ft). Shingles are 6-8-10 inches wide, at least 16 inches long. They come in various widths to eliminate any overlapping seams in any square (100 square ft.). The fat end is called a butt, the thin end is called a tail. They should be 3/8 thick at the butt. They can be either face nailed, or blind nailed, depending on exposure and stagger. They should be spaced the equivalent of a 6 penny nail. They should be installed over 15# felt paper, even if tyvek or similar is used for house wrap. #6-7-8 -10 ring-shank stainless siding nails are used, these come in colors or unpainted. Galvanized or aluminum nails should not be used as these will cause streaking/spotting in the finished product. 10" exposure should be face nailed, 2 per shingle, blind nail should be staggered 3 nail at least 3-1/2" from tail. You can use linseed oil to finish after shingles are left to "breath" for 24 hours, or allow to cure and weather before staining or painting. All wood shingles and lap siding will dry rot and/or mold if left unfinished/sealed.
White cedar needs no finish, optional. I prefer to let it gray. My introduction to white cedar was a house sidewall sawn shingles,, the nails were rusted through and the house was shedding like an old bison in the spring. We removed all the shingles, stacked and saved most of them, cleaned the wall,, I have developed a strong preference for 30# felt ,(,flatter, fewer staples, better adhesion at the back) and something just south of 3/4s of the shingles flipped over and reused. Only one wall got the new stock. Haven't seen it in a couple of decades, but looked just fine 25 years after. The Quincy Marketplace in downtown Boston, built 1826,,as waterfront docks and wharves,, the foundation is cedar logs, a horizontal wooden raft buried in the mud.. That is a solid granite building sitting on top. This is 200 years later,, likely good for another 500 years. BTW Hemlock is NOT white cedar Two distinctly different species. Two distinctly different expectations of longevity. I know the names are used interchangeably in the northwest,,,, ain't so though. Eastern white cedar,,, hard to impossible to get anymore is a separate animal. Bundles per square? Up to the sawyer. 3, 4 and 5 bundles to the square all normal
@@yopage No. They should be on site to acclimate, just as any wood product. Roof shingles are laid so there are at least 3 layers at any given point,,a 16 inch sawn shingle will have a maximum exposure of about 4.5 inches,, side wall shingling minimum double so about a 6 inch exposure. 18 inch shingles proportional about 5 inch max on the roof and 7 inch max on the side wall. Shakes,, which are split not sawn often 24 inch lengths,, 6.5 to 7 inch on the roof and up to 9 on the side wall. Spacing is often quoted as the thickness of a 6d nail (the most likely nail you are using for assembly) My take on it,, if the shingles are a bit wet, I use a tight spacing (no space) If the shingles are dead dry, I space quite loosely. Two nails per,, no matter the width and just above where the next course will cover,, Shingles selected so that no vertical seam is withing 2 inches of any seam within the last two rows for sidewalls and 1.5 inches of any seam within the three rows below for roofs. Stainless 7/16 X 2.0 crown staples work well just do not set the gun pressure too high, damages the shingle. A bit of a picky choosey job,, art,, keeps your brain engaged. Copper only for flashings,, cedar tends to eat steel and aluminum. A well done job in red cedar good for 40 to 50 years,, good job in Eastern white cedar 50 or 60 years on the roof double that on a sidewall. Expensive.
@@Sailor376also Ok, Thank You. I didn't think about the wood shingles needing to acclimate like say, wood flooring. You are right about how long the roofs last. I tore a cedar roof off a house in Seattle. If you've been there you would see that cedar roofs there have about 3 inches of solid green moss on top if they are not kept washed. Same with this one, about 35 years old. But I couldn't believe when I tore in that all the shingles were pretty and red like they had just been laid. There was no damage at all to any of the structure below. I think if these roofs are maintained, they will last a good long while.
Emerald, Red hair, Hazel eyes, Thin as a rail, perfection. Great videos, keep up the good work! You all are doing a fantastic job. Enjoyed the Lumber jack information video.
To keep the blocks in place I drilled a small hole in the clamp on the non tightening side and put in 3/4 inch screw . It is out of saw blade area and only takes a few second to remove it and put back each time with a screw gun. I cut 3000 shingles and had no issues.
Your grandfather must be proud to have such a great family to run the family business. You are all hard working and I enjoy watching your videos. I am sorry that you seem to be so addicted to coffee. I hope you will find a way to rid yourselves of this addiction.
Dear emerald, I thoroughly enjoy your videos, and I love to see the way your family gets together and work, you are worth your weight in gold to your mom and dad, they must be very proud of you, you are the bomb. PS stay Gucci
Thank y’all for the inside look at your lumber business. It’s awesome to see your family young and old working together sharing skills and learning new ways from each other. Stay safe and careful, love y’all and the channel 👍🏼❤️🇺🇸🙏😊
Hello sawyer gals and grandfather. It is very refreshing seeing Jade learning to set up shakes on the 15 with her teacher grandfather and putting out nice shingles. I know there are many comments about video quality and commentary, although Jade rocked the the shake order. Keep doing what you do!
Very true Mr Holman! People can be very critical of others when they hide behind typed words. These young ladies are prime examples of good people and a wonderful work ethic. Most people older than these ladies could learn alot from them.
I'm about grandpas age and still do a lot in my woodshop. I have a 10" piece of 1/2" conduit that slips over the short steel rod on the pipe clamps. It gives me so much leverage that I have bent a couple of my 1/2" pipes over time. You will have no trouble getting your 1/2" pipe clamps as tight as you want them. It also makes taking my glue ups out of the clamps just as easy.
We old timers called that a cheater bar. Works great, and with a bigger piece of pipe on a wrench on a tow ball nut, a much easier job on or off. Very good suggestion! 👍🏻
I noticed, yesterday, after a life of shingle experience, that I’d never seen, a mill making shingles, knowing, full well, how it would happen. Then one appeared, then Lumber Capital, appeared. Your rig showed that detail with hemlock blocks.. I’m floored. A part of my brain has a structural visualization. I work for the film industry, in construction as a prop-maker.
I like watching you explain everything your going to o and do it blue eyes. I used to watch a different wood cutting program in here and all he did was cut lumber and the first pieces hat he cuts off a log with the bark on it he just threw it on a burn pile and then he would burn it when he got enough of a pile. I like what you do when I watched the one where you talked about what you do with the saw dust because he never said anything about that. He was always using a WoodMizer also.
Always awesome, nice to see the both of you beautiful ladies and your family. Good luck refining the art of cutting those shingles. That new sweater/jacket (?) looks good. The hoodie I got from you all is fine for cooler weather but winter demands something new. Cya ltr 👋😎
Emerald, you get better at this every time I dial in. I'm a sawyer myself, literally, that's my last name, and I'm on my 2nd LT-40. The whole family is a joy to watch and learn from. You showed me things grading logs I didn't know and I'll be thanking you. Woodmizer is a great company, they BETTER be paying, both attention, and $$ Y'all keep up the good job ya doing!!
Very cool, I love watching you make those shakes, I realize it's a great deal of work, but you turn them out almost easily, great enjoyment to watch, Thank you Emerald and family for sharing this
I had shake and shingle mills for quite a few years. We had a splitter making split boards 3/4" and the man standing at the saw held each board individually starting narrow at the top and finishing narrow on the other side making to shakes with a split side and a sawed side leaving a nice look to them.. those were called shakes, five bundles to the square. Our shingle saws the block stood up, and the man would put his hip against it to start this block through a circular saw so both sides were sawn pieces, called shingles.... as they peeled off the saw blade, you picked them up... transferred them to the other hand, and then trimmed the edges and then tossed them down the packing shoot. Those are packed similar but a bit higher so it was four bundles to the square. No matter what, each sawyer and packer plus the guy feeding the board conveyors or block for shingles.... produced a bare minimum of one hundred seventy bundles a day... our best sawyers would make around the two hundred plus mark.
It is amazing watching you girls work with your grandfather. I only wish I had grandkids that were as indicated as you girls are. Oh yes, I guess there is a young lad involved as well. Don't want to leave him out. Keep up the good work.
I like that you are always coming up with more information on the business end of lumber, and I enjoyed the video of your dad in the woods showing us his love for the forest and respect for the wood he harvests. You guys rock!
One thing to keep in mind about cutting shakes is that they should be cut quartersawn to avoid curling and cupping after being installed. It is more expensive but flat sawn shakes will curl up within a year or two.
Exactly what I was thinking when I saw them. Unless it's painted as a siding but still its risky. Also no knots on the exposed area. They could prob hand split them faster if they hired a pro splitter. No setup and takes about 2-4 sec per shingle
Wow that is a labor intensive task hand cranking the mill then drawing it back all by hand and then picking up and sorting and bundling the product, a lot of work on a warm day. Nice job Emerald and I see u up graded your coffee thermos I miss the old battered own with your maw & paws name and a heart or the end. Have a great rest of your day
Great video as usual, when you have time, would you make a video on how the controls work on the WM 40? What do the numbers in the LCD mean and what do the levers do. Keep up the good work
Emerald, another great video showing details of the process making shake shingles. The quality is very good so you should be able to sell large amounts of product. It is nice to see you girls working along side of your grandfather as you run the mill and make shingles. Blessing to you all....
Good stuff. I was a Foresty major and worked for a forestry products company for 30 years. I live in Virginia and I want to second the Atlantic white cedar comments and the fact that they last forever. Some shingles in colonial America had the corners cut at 45 degrees to lesser the effect of cupping. The shingles machine I saw went back and forth and was a circular saw. Wasted a lot of kerf. Their machine is using a clamp arrangement to keep the blocks in place. It is smooth. It probably needs dogs.
Cupping is avoided by quarter sawing the shingles. I would expect all of the ones they are sawing from 6x6 blocks of heartwood will have serious issues with cupping. This part of why shingles were traditionally made from full rounds, which were split into quarters, the worked alternating split sides, and that produces 100% vertical grain until the width is small enough that the warpage doesn’t matter.
What a super cool video Emerald! Thanks so much for sharing that with us. your grandfather is a good man. Loved his hands. Excellent editing on this one.
Kudos to the three of you. Great job by grandpa to make the setup. Several suggestions below to improve efficiency, some good advice. He may have never used an impact wrench. I am probably about his age, ... just got my first one.
Grease the clamp screw and get a piece of 1/2" steel pipe to slip over the clamp handle to give you a lot of leverage when tightening the screw. You can cut the pipe to whichever length gives you as much strength as you want and is most convenient to carry and wield like a wrench.
I said that applause for you doing this good job and showing up makes sense and measure the most sizes for each squares of the woods and the other length woods yourself Grandfather and with your niece ❤👉🏾👏🏾🙌🏾👍🏾💪🏾👀 this wondering how you feeling that through your own learn and how you teach families great good things and grateful for everyone here ❤😊
Very enjoyable video ... good job to all 3 of you. Plenty of comments below on how to keep your bolts from flipping so won't go there. But thought you might enjoy this older RUclips entry on the other method of cutting shake shingles ... I find it amazing. As a bonus, a bit of trivia for you ... and who invented the "Circular Saw Blade": "a Shaker woman from Harvard, Mass named
Great in-depth look at the daily hard work of running a family business! Plenty of useful tips and insight into the arcane details of operating the mills too. Many thanks!
That was great, I don't know who was using the camera, but it was great, and the slow motion was very nice. great job Emerald and the person using the camera. Have good evening.
The clamping feet could be disassembled when time permits, placed on a drill press, drilled & tapped for cone point set screws (set screws with a point on the tip) they would dig into the wood for a better bite. There are many types of nubbins out there, in this case they’re known as cams.
Those clamps are basically just pony clamps. Disassemble them and take'em to a machine shop, have some knurled features cut into the faces. Any machine shop should be able to do it pretty cheap.
You can find information on grading, packaging and application from the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau. The product you are making most closely resembles a #4 grade perfection, described in document CSSB97, though I suspect it is actually a "mill grade" or not conforming to any specific standard.
You look like your enjoying your work with them logs and cutting them down, sounds like you have the math on your wood, keep up the good work, keep the faith
You can purchase Allen Wrenches that have a rounded ball on the end to find the screw heads quicker and also operate on a slight angle. Nicely done. Some good tips below.
5:57 Could you put some little spot welds on the part of the clamp that touches the wood so they would press into the wood and hold it in place? Or cut non-skid tape (like for the deck of a skateboard) to fit the end of each clamp.
Could you run the mill with a hefty 4x on top to keep the pieces from shifting? Maybe with evenly spaced blocking at centers on the blocks. Then the clamps sole purpose is just to keep the work from slipping laterally. You would probably keep the shake in place until all cuts have been made.
What about welding a nut behind the handle on the wood grippers? You could then use a small impact to tighten and release the grippers holding the wood blocks more securely while also making releasing them more easy.
Nubbins = cam lobes. Looks like grand-dad got the mill dialed in nicely. Some graphite or other "dry-lube" might help out with the clamps. Someone else mentioned welding nuts on the end and using an impact, great idea too.
Another tid bid if you are installing either shakes or shingles use only two nails per, no matter how wide they are, this will allow for expansion and contraction, adding more nails enhances the chance for slitting and splits will eventually slide out, causing potential leaks !
Really great video. So interesting to learn exactly how you make these products. In holding the blocks in place to be cut maybe you could weld spikes on the inside jaw faces of the pipe clamps. May hold the block tighter. But I'm sure you all will figure it out,
Might be a crazy question but could you put two or three of those blocks side by side to get more shingles? I am no sawmill expert, just curious. Thanks for the video!
Your family and community should be very proud of you. You're a very involved, capable and knowledgeable worker. For the life of me, I can't understand why modeling agencies haven't approached you yet.
Maybe a little WD40 on those clamp screw bolts "wood" help. You can also run a longer board alongside your shorter pieces to hold them in place. Sometimes wood-on-wood holds better than metal on wood. It gives purchase along the entire length of the shorter boards you are cutting.
I like the piece of music you put in at 5:05; thanks to Shazam I found out that it is So Many Roads by Headlund. I‘m actually listening to it very often 😊
A quick tip is drill a hole in the corner of the clamp that comes in contact of the wood and put a 1 inch screw in the wood through the foot of the clamp and problem solved.
If I was to design a gig to cut shingles on a bandsaw mill I would cut the blocks from the side. You could get far more shingles from each pass. Our shingles blocks were "16" long.
I have an older woodmizer shingle lapsider attachment, and the one I have does clamp the blocks on sideways instead of inline like theirs. Wonder why they changed it?
You drill small holes in your pipe clamp heads faces, to fill with a short sheet metal screw, to spike your short cants in place, so you don't have to tighten the Acme screw of the pipe clamps so tight. You'll be able to work fast and more securely with just that little bit of actual bite into the cant.
While I won't guarantee this would help long term but it was said to lube the threads of the clamps but the problem is typical lubes tend to attract contaminants and certainly sawdust. I'd suggest you try spraying a dry graphite on those threads, it goes on as a liquid and then dries quick and just work the screw in right after its wetted down to get it into the female threads as well as on the thread rod, the threads would have to be free of all grease etc so the graphite would bond properly. Try a couple of clamps that way and see if it helps tighten the clamps better. If it wasn't for the dirt and sawdust ( and getting it onto your hands and everything else ) I'd suggest grease with a moly content as that works well also for threads. Yes a short piece of pipe can be used on the clamp handles but getting too aggressive with that can sure bend those clamp handles, I have a few c clamps around with bent handles to prove that LOL.
We certainly hope you ingest more then just coffee during the day. You are as "thin and straight " as the boards you cut. Joking of course. Nothing wrong with coffee during the day. The products you produce are as great as yourself and family. Stay safe and happy. Take some time to enjoy life. All work and no play is not good. Great machines are only as great as the person using them!
Everybody loves to tell you guys how to do your job, so I will too. Get a battery powered 1/2" nut driver for your pipe clamps - easy on, easy off. --- Thanks for the great upload. ---
Nice video. Since the last piece is a scrap piece, would it be possible to have small spikes in the pads that hold it so it won't pop up as you stated. Doesn't have to be much and you could possibly even fabricate them. It would effectively stop any of them kicking up. Also with the spikes you could even have them on one edge and could make at least an extra row of shingles if not two rows. Just a thought.
Cut your shingles like an 18" lap side piece... Then set up a radial alarm saw with a stop and just shag your shingles on the radial alarm by stacking a few boards and a time and pulling them to a set stop.. Seems like it would go a lot faster and have more control with less moving pieces..
This was a year ago, I know, but wow Emerald is just stunningly beautiful. I don't know how else to put it. As I've said before I can't believe she's not in Milan or NYC on a runway.
Jade working with grandpa making shingles,awesome!!! She really is a beautiful girl!🥰🥰🥰
Merch idea: 2023 calendar. These kids are too photogenic. Hard workers too. Very impressive.
i agree and Boss lady not too shabby either .
I've installed many thousands of squares of shingles, Red Cedar, Hemlock (white cedar), Redwood, Cyprus. A proper bundle is 33.3 square ft., 3 bundles to a square (100 square ft). Shingles are 6-8-10 inches wide, at least 16 inches long. They come in various widths to eliminate any overlapping seams in any square (100 square ft.). The fat end is called a butt, the thin end is called a tail. They should be 3/8 thick at the butt. They can be either face nailed, or blind nailed, depending on exposure and stagger. They should be spaced the equivalent of a 6 penny nail. They should be installed over 15# felt paper, even if tyvek or similar is used for house wrap. #6-7-8 -10 ring-shank stainless siding nails are used, these come in colors or unpainted. Galvanized or aluminum nails should not be used as these will cause streaking/spotting in the finished product. 10" exposure should be face nailed, 2 per shingle, blind nail should be staggered 3 nail at least 3-1/2" from tail. You can use linseed oil to finish after shingles are left to "breath" for 24 hours, or allow to cure and weather before staining or painting. All wood shingles and lap siding will dry rot and/or mold if left unfinished/sealed.
Great information. Thanks! I live in Redwood country, by the way.
White cedar needs no finish, optional. I prefer to let it gray. My introduction to white cedar was a house sidewall sawn shingles,, the nails were rusted through and the house was shedding like an old bison in the spring. We removed all the shingles, stacked and saved most of them, cleaned the wall,, I have developed a strong preference for 30# felt ,(,flatter, fewer staples, better adhesion at the back) and something just south of 3/4s of the shingles flipped over and reused. Only one wall got the new stock. Haven't seen it in a couple of decades, but looked just fine 25 years after. The Quincy Marketplace in downtown Boston, built 1826,,as waterfront docks and wharves,, the foundation is cedar logs, a horizontal wooden raft buried in the mud.. That is a solid granite building sitting on top. This is 200 years later,, likely good for another 500 years. BTW Hemlock is NOT white cedar Two distinctly different species. Two distinctly different expectations of longevity. I know the names are used interchangeably in the northwest,,,, ain't so though. Eastern white cedar,,, hard to impossible to get anymore is a separate animal. Bundles per square? Up to the sawyer. 3, 4 and 5 bundles to the square all normal
Aren't wood shingles applied wet (dipped in water) to expand when installing? Thanks.
@@yopage No. They should be on site to acclimate, just as any wood product. Roof shingles are laid so there are at least 3 layers at any given point,,a 16 inch sawn shingle will have a maximum exposure of about 4.5 inches,, side wall shingling minimum double so about a 6 inch exposure. 18 inch shingles proportional about 5 inch max on the roof and 7 inch max on the side wall. Shakes,, which are split not sawn often 24 inch lengths,, 6.5 to 7 inch on the roof and up to 9 on the side wall.
Spacing is often quoted as the thickness of a 6d nail (the most likely nail you are using for assembly) My take on it,, if the shingles are a bit wet, I use a tight spacing (no space) If the shingles are dead dry, I space quite loosely. Two nails per,, no matter the width and just above where the next course will cover,, Shingles selected so that no vertical seam is withing 2 inches of any seam within the last two rows for sidewalls and 1.5 inches of any seam within the three rows below for roofs. Stainless 7/16 X 2.0 crown staples work well just do not set the gun pressure too high, damages the shingle. A bit of a picky choosey job,, art,, keeps your brain engaged. Copper only for flashings,, cedar tends to eat steel and aluminum. A well done job in red cedar good for 40 to 50 years,, good job in Eastern white cedar 50 or 60 years on the roof double that on a sidewall. Expensive.
@@Sailor376also Ok, Thank You. I didn't think about the wood shingles needing to acclimate like say, wood flooring. You are right about how long the roofs last. I tore a cedar roof off a house in Seattle. If you've been there you would see that cedar roofs there have about 3 inches of solid green moss on top if they are not kept washed. Same with this one, about 35 years old. But I couldn't believe when I tore in that all the shingles were pretty and red like they had just been laid. There was no damage at all to any of the structure below. I think if these roofs are maintained, they will last a good long while.
take good care of your grandfather he really keeps every thing going.
Great video Em, very interesting to see how you do things and good work Jade. I really like the beauty queen thumbnail.
Emerald, Red hair, Hazel eyes, Thin as a rail, perfection. Great videos, keep up the good work! You all are doing a fantastic job. Enjoyed the Lumber jack information video.
Awesome to see the next generation learning quality craftsmanship. What a blessing for your Grandfather.
To keep the blocks in place I drilled a small hole in the clamp on the non tightening side and put in 3/4 inch screw . It is out of saw blade area and only takes a few second to remove it and put back each time with a screw gun. I cut 3000 shingles and had no issues.
That’s quit an assembly line y’all got there! Good job!!!
It's great to see you all working together as a family.
Your grandfather must be proud to have such a great family to run the family business. You are all hard working and I enjoy watching your videos. I am sorry that you seem to be so addicted to coffee. I hope you will find a way to rid yourselves of this addiction.
Dear emerald, I thoroughly enjoy your videos, and I love to see the way your family gets together and work, you are worth your weight in gold to your mom and dad, they must be very proud of you, you are the bomb. PS stay Gucci
You Lumber Ladies Rock......
Beautiful and hardworking to boot!
Thank y’all for the inside look at your lumber business. It’s awesome to see your family young and old working together sharing skills and learning new ways from each other. Stay safe and careful, love y’all and the channel 👍🏼❤️🇺🇸🙏😊
Hello sawyer gals and grandfather. It is very refreshing seeing Jade learning to set up shakes on the 15 with her teacher grandfather and putting out nice shingles. I know there are many comments about video quality and commentary, although Jade rocked the the shake order. Keep doing what you do!
Very true Mr Holman! People can be very critical of others when they hide behind typed words. These young ladies are prime examples of good people and a wonderful work ethic. Most people older than these ladies could learn alot from them.
Thanks for the videos it’s fun to watch with the grandkids it answers questions for them and it’s great
You can see your camera skills and storytelling getting better with each video! Keep it up
Emerald is a coffee junkie.....LOVE IT!!!!!.....nice Shake Shingles....
I love this channel! Women workin with wood and millls! Just like the ladies labor put in 🙌💥🇺🇸
I'm about grandpas age and still do a lot in my woodshop. I have a 10" piece of 1/2" conduit that slips over the short steel rod on the pipe clamps. It gives me so much leverage that I have bent a couple of my 1/2" pipes over time. You will have no trouble getting your 1/2" pipe clamps as tight as you want them. It also makes taking my glue ups out of the clamps just as easy.
We old timers called that a cheater bar. Works great, and with a bigger piece of pipe on a wrench on a tow ball nut, a much easier job on or off. Very good suggestion! 👍🏻
I completely shattered a large bench vise trying to remove a tow ball nut from a hitch receiver with a long cheater bar.
@@TheMonkdad Did you get a bigger bench vise after that? Shatter does happen.
Great video detailing the setup and output. Thanks Emerald!
....EXCELLENT 👍
.... &.... INFORMATIVE 🤔
2 things:. ... hex socket set
and change the clamps from handcrank to impact drill.
Nice job young lady and paps love to see a family that works together
This young lady will be CEO of this company one day. She seems to understand most aspects of a lumber company.
I just loving watching you folks work. Almost makes me want to buy a sawmill i dont need.
The quality seems to be good so they should sell good. Another super video. Thank you.
I noticed, yesterday, after a life of shingle experience, that I’d never seen, a mill making shingles, knowing, full well, how it would happen. Then one appeared, then Lumber Capital, appeared. Your rig showed that detail with hemlock blocks.. I’m floored. A part of my brain has a structural visualization. I work for the film industry, in construction as a prop-maker.
I like watching you explain everything your going to o and do it blue eyes. I used to watch a different wood cutting program in here and all he did was cut lumber and the first pieces hat he cuts off a log with the bark on it he just threw it on a burn pile and then he would burn it when he got enough of a pile. I like what you do when I watched the one where you talked about what you do with the saw dust because he never said anything about that. He was always using a WoodMizer also.
Always awesome, nice to see the both of you beautiful ladies and your family. Good luck refining the art of cutting those shingles. That new sweater/jacket (?) looks good. The hoodie I got from you all is fine for cooler weather but winter demands something new. Cya ltr 👋😎
All the shingles I've used to hang doors I never thought for a minute about how they were made👍
A very good Tuesday evening to you all from Wellington Somerset in the UK
Emerald, you get better at this every time I dial in. I'm a sawyer myself, literally, that's my last name, and I'm on my 2nd LT-40. The whole family is a joy to watch and learn from. You showed me things grading logs I didn't know and I'll be thanking you. Woodmizer is a great company, they BETTER be paying, both attention, and $$
Y'all keep up the good job ya doing!!
Very cool, I love watching you make those shakes, I realize it's a great deal of work, but you turn them out almost easily, great enjoyment to watch, Thank you Emerald and family for sharing this
Lady you can’t help but be in terrific shape dragging that head back an forth!
Wow!
Jade is doing the sawing-
You guys are the real bone back of your family, be proud and carry on the world is yours!
Pretty cool 😎 operation! Love seeing you work with grandpa. Thanks for sharing.
You keep getting better and better----10 !!!!
I had shake and shingle mills for quite a few years. We had a splitter making split boards 3/4" and the man standing at the saw held each board individually starting narrow at the top and finishing narrow on the other side making to shakes with a split side and a sawed side leaving a nice look to them.. those were called shakes, five bundles to the square. Our shingle saws the block stood up, and the man would put his hip against it to start this block through a circular saw so both sides were sawn pieces, called shingles.... as they peeled off the saw blade, you picked them up... transferred them to the other hand, and then trimmed the edges and then tossed them down the packing shoot. Those are packed similar but a bit higher so it was four bundles to the square. No matter what, each sawyer and packer plus the guy feeding the board conveyors or block for shingles.... produced a bare minimum of one hundred seventy bundles a day... our best sawyers would make around the two hundred plus mark.
It is amazing watching you girls work with your grandfather. I only wish I had grandkids that were as indicated as you girls are. Oh yes, I guess there is a young lad involved as well. Don't want to leave him out. Keep up the good work.
BEAUTIFUL ALIGNMENT AND CREATING 🙂
I like that you are always coming up with more information on the business end of lumber, and I enjoyed the video of your dad in the woods showing us his love for the forest and respect for the wood he harvests. You guys rock!
One thing to keep in mind about cutting shakes is that they should be cut quartersawn to avoid curling and cupping after being installed. It is more expensive but flat sawn shakes will curl up within a year or two.
Exactly what I was thinking when I saw them. Unless it's painted as a siding but still its risky. Also no knots on the exposed area. They could prob hand split them faster if they hired a pro splitter. No setup and takes about 2-4 sec per shingle
Wow that is a labor intensive task hand cranking the mill then drawing it back all by hand and then picking up and sorting and bundling the product, a lot of work on a warm day. Nice job Emerald and I see u up graded your coffee thermos I miss the old battered own with your maw & paws name and a heart or the end. Have a great rest of your day
Jade did most of the actual work, but it looks like fun work to do and I can nearly smell the wood from here-
Great video as usual, when you have time, would you make a video on how the controls work on the WM 40? What do the numbers in the LCD mean and what do the levers do. Keep up the good work
Great suggestion. Boss Man.
Emerald, another great video showing details of the process making shake shingles. The quality is very good so you should be able to sell large amounts of product. It is nice to see you girls working along side of your grandfather as you run the mill and make shingles. Blessing to you all....
Good stuff. I was a Foresty major and worked for a forestry products company for 30 years.
I live in Virginia and I want to second the Atlantic white cedar comments and the fact that they last forever. Some shingles in colonial America had the corners cut at 45 degrees to lesser the effect of cupping.
The shingles machine I saw went back and forth and was a circular saw. Wasted a lot of kerf.
Their machine is using a clamp arrangement to keep the blocks in place. It is smooth. It probably needs dogs.
Cupping is avoided by quarter sawing the shingles. I would expect all of the ones they are sawing from 6x6 blocks of heartwood will have serious issues with cupping. This part of why shingles were traditionally made from full rounds, which were split into quarters, the worked alternating split sides, and that produces 100% vertical grain until the width is small enough that the warpage doesn’t matter.
Dang! You folks work HARD! I really appreciate your videos! Keep up the great work!
I just love it when you say "shaped shingles"
Good Job Ladies👏👏👏👏👏👌👸👸🏻❤️❤️and HUGE thank you Grand "MacGyver" Pa
🙏🧑🏼🔧👏👏👏👌❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
What a super cool video Emerald! Thanks so much for sharing that with us.
your grandfather is a good man. Loved his hands. Excellent editing on this one.
Wassup buddy glad to see you here. I watch you as well. Happy holiday weekend to ya.
@@larss592 😊👍 many many years ago i had a wood mizer. Was only a few years after the company started.
@@ccrx6700 Hah! Wish I had one before. It would have changed the direction of my woodworking.
You and your family work very hard keep it up it's a great video that you're sending people I like your company's logging outfit Stay safe
Kudos to the three of you. Great job by grandpa to make the setup. Several suggestions below to improve efficiency, some good advice. He may have never used an impact wrench. I am probably about his age, ... just got my first one.
Grease the clamp screw and get a piece of 1/2" steel pipe to slip over the clamp handle to give you a lot of leverage when tightening the screw. You can cut the pipe to whichever length gives you as much strength as you want and is most convenient to carry and wield like a wrench.
Leverage makes work smarter and definitely would ease loosening the clamp afterwards.
I said that applause for you doing this good job and showing up makes sense and measure the most sizes for each squares of the woods and the other length woods yourself Grandfather and with your niece ❤👉🏾👏🏾🙌🏾👍🏾💪🏾👀 this wondering how you feeling that through your own learn and how you teach families great good things and grateful for everyone here ❤😊
Very enjoyable video ... good job to all 3 of you. Plenty of comments below on how to keep your bolts from flipping so won't go there. But thought you might enjoy this older RUclips entry on the other method of cutting shake shingles ... I find it amazing. As a bonus, a bit of trivia for you ... and who invented the "Circular Saw Blade":
"a Shaker woman from Harvard, Mass named
Also glad to see the 18 inch in length instead of 16. It is more water and bug resistant for a lo ger piord of time.
Great in-depth look at the daily hard work of running a family business! Plenty of useful tips and insight into the arcane details of operating the mills too. Many thanks!
I really like all 3 of you girls. I like girls who work hard to stay in good physical condition. A healthy mind is a healthy body.
That was great, I don't know who was using the camera, but it was great, and the slow motion was very nice. great job Emerald and the person using the camera. Have good evening.
I'm guessing Em did the camera for the action-shots of Jade and Grandpa, girls switched for narration-shots-
I grew up around mills inn Sullivan County.. these videos bring back memories.
The clamping feet could be disassembled when time permits, placed on a drill press, drilled & tapped for cone point set screws (set screws with a point on the tip) they would dig into the wood for a better bite. There are many types of nubbins out there, in this case they’re known as cams.
aka grub screw
That's exactly what I was thinking.
@@aowi7280 Great minds think alike
@@irvinwittmeier5208 As long as their not grubbin' on the nubbins, it should work.
Same thought here. 👍
Those clamps are basically just pony clamps. Disassemble them and take'em to a machine shop, have some knurled features cut into the faces. Any machine shop should be able to do it pretty cheap.
You can find information on grading, packaging and application from the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau.
The product you are making most closely resembles a #4 grade perfection, described in document CSSB97, though I suspect it is actually a "mill grade" or not conforming to any specific standard.
You look like your enjoying your work with them logs and cutting them down, sounds like you have the math on your wood, keep up the good work, keep the faith
You can purchase Allen Wrenches that have a rounded ball on the end to find the screw heads quicker and also operate on a slight angle. Nicely done. Some good tips below.
Great video, ya'll got a knack for it . Keep up the good work, thank's.
5:57 Could you put some little spot welds on the part of the clamp that touches the wood so they would press into the wood and hold it in place? Or cut non-skid tape (like for the deck of a skateboard) to fit the end of each clamp.
Could you run the mill with a hefty 4x on top to keep the pieces from shifting? Maybe with evenly spaced blocking at centers on the blocks. Then the clamps sole purpose is just to keep the work from slipping laterally. You would probably keep the shake in place until all cuts have been made.
Thank you for sharing your videos. God bless all of you 🙏
Very informational you're doing a great job explaining this to me I appreciate it thank you
What about welding a nut behind the handle on the wood grippers? You could then use a small impact to tighten and release the grippers holding the wood blocks more securely while also making releasing them more easy.
Nubbins = cam lobes. Looks like grand-dad got the mill dialed in nicely. Some graphite or other "dry-lube" might help out with the clamps. Someone else mentioned welding nuts on the end and using an impact, great idea too.
Another tid bid if you are installing either shakes or shingles use only two nails per, no matter how wide they are, this will allow for expansion and contraction, adding more nails enhances the chance for slitting and splits will eventually slide out, causing potential leaks !
I always pre-drill also. A tiny 12v cordless is plenty. Keep joints at least 1 1/2" apart from course to course.
I always hidden-nail with 3 2" staples per shingle.
Really great video. So interesting to learn exactly how you make these products. In holding the blocks in place to be cut maybe you could weld spikes on the inside jaw faces of the pipe clamps. May hold the block tighter. But I'm sure you all will figure it out,
very very interesting .. its good to see you girls giving it a go to ...cool stuff ... big thumbs up
Might be a crazy question but could you put two or three of those blocks side by side to get more shingles? I am no sawmill expert, just curious. Thanks for the video!
Your family and community should be very proud of you. You're a very involved, capable and knowledgeable worker.
For the life of me, I can't understand why modeling agencies haven't approached you yet.
Those cranks you mentioned could probably be replaced with regular bolts and tighten faster with a power drill or ratcheting wrench.
Wow , prettiest eyes I have ever seen, and knows her work, that's just awesome ....
Maybe a little WD40 on those clamp screw bolts "wood" help. You can also run a longer board alongside your shorter pieces to hold them in place. Sometimes wood-on-wood holds better than metal on wood. It gives purchase along the entire length of the shorter boards you are cutting.
I like the piece of music you put in at 5:05; thanks to Shazam I found out that it is So Many Roads by Headlund. I‘m actually listening to it very often 😊
A quick tip is drill a hole in the corner of the clamp that comes in contact of the wood and put a 1 inch screw in the wood through the foot of the clamp and problem solved.
Very nice work.
You are a very hard worker!
If I was to design a gig to cut shingles on a bandsaw mill I would cut the blocks from the side. You could get far more shingles from each pass. Our shingles blocks were "16" long.
I have an older woodmizer shingle lapsider attachment, and the one I have does clamp the blocks on sideways instead of inline like theirs. Wonder why they changed it?
I did a lot of shake shingles during my early life. Now I use a table saw and planner to make flooring for my cabin.
How fortunate you get to work with your grandfather. I never knew either one of mine.
You drill small holes in your pipe clamp heads faces, to fill with a short sheet metal screw, to spike your short cants in place, so you don't have to tighten the Acme screw of the pipe clamps so tight. You'll be able to work fast and more securely with just that little bit of actual bite into the cant.
Beat me to it ... and with a cordless drill, quick work of it ... and will prevent the "Flipping" issue.
While I won't guarantee this would help long term but it was said to lube the threads of the clamps but the problem is typical lubes tend to attract contaminants and certainly sawdust. I'd suggest you try spraying a dry graphite on those threads, it goes on as a liquid and then dries quick and just work the screw in right after its wetted down to get it into the female threads as well as on the thread rod, the threads would have to be free of all grease etc so the graphite would bond properly. Try a couple of clamps that way and see if it helps tighten the clamps better. If it wasn't for the dirt and sawdust ( and getting it onto your hands and everything else ) I'd suggest grease with a moly content as that works well also for threads. Yes a short piece of pipe can be used on the clamp handles but getting too aggressive with that can sure bend those clamp handles, I have a few c clamps around with bent handles to prove that LOL.
Praise your hard working family .
You can add a prong on the face of each clamp that will bite into the wood blanks keeping them from shifting upwards.
We certainly hope you ingest more then just coffee during the day. You are as "thin and straight " as the boards you cut. Joking of course. Nothing wrong with coffee during the day. The products you produce are as great as yourself and family. Stay safe and happy. Take some time to enjoy life. All work and no play is not good. Great machines are only as great as the person using them!
May I suggest using sticker strips to add stability to the shorter pieces, what could it hurt ??
Good work and Know-how from grandpa and young lady’s 👌🏽👌🏽🥰
Everybody loves to tell you guys how to do your job, so I will too.
Get a battery powered 1/2" nut driver for your pipe clamps - easy on, easy off. --- Thanks for the great upload. ---
Great job Emerald
Nice video. Since the last piece is a scrap piece, would it be possible to have small spikes in the pads that hold it so it won't pop up as you stated. Doesn't have to be much and you could possibly even fabricate them. It would effectively stop any of them kicking up. Also with the spikes you could even have them on one edge and could make at least an extra row of shingles if not two rows. Just a thought.
Cut your shingles like an 18" lap side piece... Then set up a radial alarm saw with a stop and just shag your shingles on the radial alarm by stacking a few boards and a time and pulling them to a set stop.. Seems like it would go a lot faster and have more control with less moving pieces..
This was a year ago, I know, but wow Emerald is just stunningly beautiful. I don't know how else to put it. As I've said before I can't believe she's not in Milan or NYC on a runway.
Emerald. I was gonna offer some suggestions but other's have got them covered here. Grandpa is looking good, love the way you all work together!