Just rebuilt a HDA carb on an old Echo 550. The new kit came with the black gaskets and the beige gaskets. When i use the black gaskets the saw floods and when i use the beige gaskets it starves for gas. Got me scratching my head. When i use the beige gaskets it will hold pressure even with the needle removed. It will try to run with the beige gaskets. it won`t even start with the black gaskets but you can pour the gas out of the muffler.
Thanks for the great video. I've had a Husky 359 e-tech with the notorious Walbro HDA-199a (with the thick black spacer on the diaphram side) and it's always bogged, idled poorly (dies), revs up when hot. Finally installed a genuine K24-HDA kit and all those problems vanished, it's an absolute joy to run now.
Man, when I think of the dozens and dozens of carbs I rebuilt without knowing such a thing as a pressure test even existed...makes me feel pretty lame. I went to the Jonsereds tech meetings back in the early 80's, never heard anyone mention pressure testing. Maybe it was some sort of trade secret they didn't want to let out? Anyway, thanks for the knowledge. Back in the dark ages it was "Throw a carb kit in it!" and that's about as far as the troubleshooting went. I guess an old fart can learn new stuff after all! Thanks again Leon.
Thanks for the great video, just did an HDA for a wacker jumping jack, no pressure at first, rebuild now holds pressure, great tip, confident it'll work now.
Leon, Usually if there’s a difference between the lo and Hi adjustment screws on a 2 stroke carb, generally the Hi is a little longer. I’ve got a 362 with a Walbro WTE series carb and the Hi screw is actually a little shorter. And it’s never been apart before. Have you ever ran across this before? Thanks Leon!
Hi, great video again, i really like your way of repair. What helps me sometimes to get those gaskets seal better is to apply a tiny film of grease/vaseline to both sides of the gaskets. Looking forward to your next video, all the best from Herwijnen, Gelderland
You know a lot about Walboro carbs! I can sense you wisdom when you speak mid conversation. I wonder if you would be willing to explain how if at all, to use a purge bulb to test walboro. I know we can use a purge bulb to test zama carbs.
Love your videos, I have a question. I'm working on a hDA. the kit has both Rubber, and Mylar? pump flappers, how do I know which one to use? The old one was Mylar. Thanks ion Advance.
I have a question for you? So after rebuilding a HDA144 I could get the saw to run but when you tilt the saw bat down it dies? What did I assemble wrong and no I don’t have a pressure tester yet tomorrow I will!
No check valve on the high speed nozzle? I rebuilt an hda today and seems like no fuel at high end. Idles and revs a little bit just fine. Walbro hda service manual shows a check valve for hda carbs. I didn't remove the brass plug on my carb as I didn't know if I had parts that would be found under there.
Good, video. Most carbs aren't as scary as a lot think. Just wondering why you didn't use the dental picks again to spread a micro thin layer of gasket crap instead of tightening it so much? When I work on small parts like this I work on them in/on/over a boot tray. Lots of them out there. You could use an old cookie sheet. Love the videos!
I never use the gasket sealer on carbs because of the risk of it contaminating the rest of the system. Even a little smidge of it can plug up a small passage.
Hi i was wondering if you might know what this little black rubber peice is that sitts in the same channel as where the high and low needle passage ways are, everytime i blast it with carb and chock cleaner i seem to mess up that rubber valve or whatever it is, but its in another area like in the little hole when you take the cap off, its the hole that if you spray carb and choke cleaner through either of the low or high needle, it will come out this little hole on the back side, do you know what thats for? I removed it and now my engine is hard to start but once its runnin it works fine
PULL THE WELCH PLUGS THE TINY HOLES BLOCK AND YOU GET POOR IDLE FROMM H CIRCUIT ONLY. CHECK VALVES FAIL AND CAUSE FLOODING AFTER STOPPING WARM ENGINE. YOUR NEEDLE VALVE LEAKS AND YOU PRETTY MUCH DON'T HAVE A CLUE ABOUT CARBS
Just rebuilt a HDA carb on an old Echo 550. The new kit came with the black gaskets and the beige gaskets. When i use the black gaskets the saw floods and when i use the beige gaskets it starves for gas. Got me scratching my head. When i use the beige gaskets it will hold pressure even with the needle removed. It will try to run with the beige gaskets. it won`t even start with the black gaskets but you can pour the gas out of the muffler.
Thanks for the great video. I've had a Husky 359 e-tech with the notorious Walbro HDA-199a (with the thick black spacer on the diaphram side) and it's always bogged, idled poorly (dies), revs up when hot. Finally installed a genuine K24-HDA kit and all those problems vanished, it's an absolute joy to run now.
7:20 i learned the hard way... Put fuel in the carb before pressure testing. There's an hour of my life I'll not recover. 1974 Craftsman 2.3 chainsaw.
Man, when I think of the dozens and dozens of carbs I rebuilt without knowing such a thing as a pressure test even existed...makes me feel pretty lame. I went to the Jonsereds tech meetings back in the early 80's, never heard anyone mention pressure testing. Maybe it was some sort of trade secret they didn't want to let out? Anyway, thanks for the knowledge. Back in the dark ages it was "Throw a carb kit in it!" and that's about as far as the troubleshooting went. I guess an old fart can learn new stuff after all! Thanks again Leon.
U sure know your stuff. That and being honest an nice means everything in business. Sure give a lot of free info to help others. Thanks very much.
This is great stuff for all of us learning
Thanks for the great video, just did an HDA for a wacker jumping jack, no pressure at first, rebuild now holds pressure, great tip, confident it'll work now.
Leon, Usually if there’s a difference between the lo and Hi adjustment screws on a 2 stroke carb, generally the Hi is a little longer. I’ve got a 362 with a Walbro WTE series carb and the Hi screw is actually a little shorter. And it’s never been apart before. Have you ever ran across this before? Thanks Leon!
Hi, great video again, i really like your way of repair. What helps me sometimes to get those gaskets seal better is to apply a tiny film of grease/vaseline to both sides of the gaskets. Looking forward to your next video, all the best from Herwijnen, Gelderland
Minus on that is it seems to attract all the dust from the entire workshop🙃
I thought you needed to test the carb wet? A little mix in the needle well usually seals the needle in my experience. Great Videos keep them coming!
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing
Leon, build up some of those pressure testers and sell them in your store! For a healthy profit of course
You know a lot about Walboro carbs! I can sense you wisdom when you speak mid conversation. I wonder if you would be willing to explain how if at all, to use a purge bulb to test walboro. I know we can use a purge bulb to test zama carbs.
Thank you for a great video 👍
Good video I’m doing a HDB 8b now for a craftsman 3.7 chainsaw now
Great video sir thanks for the tips
Love your videos, I have a question. I'm working on a hDA. the kit has both Rubber, and Mylar? pump flappers, how do I know which one to use? The old one was Mylar.
Thanks ion Advance.
I have a question for you? So after rebuilding a HDA144 I could get the saw to run but when you tilt the saw bat down it dies? What did I assemble wrong and no I don’t have a pressure tester yet tomorrow I will!
My saw used to do that. I changed my fuel filter. Runs great now
No check valve on the high speed nozzle? I rebuilt an hda today and seems like no fuel at high end. Idles and revs a little bit just fine. Walbro hda service manual shows a check valve for hda carbs. I didn't remove the brass plug on my carb as I didn't know if I had parts that would be found under there.
Have one of these for my gtr need to rebuild it
Good, video. Most carbs aren't as scary as a lot think.
Just wondering why you didn't use the dental picks again to spread a micro thin layer of gasket crap instead of tightening it so much?
When I work on small parts like this I work on them in/on/over a boot tray. Lots of them out there. You could use an old cookie sheet.
Love the videos!
I never use the gasket sealer on carbs because of the risk of it contaminating the rest of the system. Even a little smidge of it can plug up a small passage.
Yup, I agree on that. Carbs can be pesky! Maybe it was a crank gasket or something else video I'm thinking about.
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair
Have you tried soaking the gasket with WD-40?
Nice video
How do you charge the spark plugs on a husqvarna 23 compact chainsaw
Hi i was wondering if you might know what this little black rubber peice is that sitts in the same channel as where the high and low needle passage ways are, everytime i blast it with carb and chock cleaner i seem to mess up that rubber valve or whatever it is, but its in another area like in the little hole when you take the cap off, its the hole that if you spray carb and choke cleaner through either of the low or high needle, it will come out this little hole on the back side, do you know what thats for? I removed it and now my engine is hard to start but once its runnin it works fine
Pretty easy fix! Obviously the needle is worn or has trash under it not letting it seat.
A little dab of grease under the spring will hold it in place while you put in the needle and will dissolve when you start the saw ....
I was actually thinking using a little dab of silicone or dielectric grease for that since it doesn’t harm synthetic parts.
What are you using for a vacuum tester there?
PULL THE WELCH PLUGS
THE TINY HOLES BLOCK AND YOU GET POOR IDLE FROMM H CIRCUIT ONLY.
CHECK VALVES FAIL AND CAUSE FLOODING AFTER STOPPING WARM ENGINE.
YOUR NEEDLE VALVE LEAKS
AND YOU PRETTY MUCH DON'T HAVE A CLUE ABOUT CARBS
I've got one these carby and it still runs with high needle closed any idea why I can't tune it cause the high needle won't change the tune
Where can I buy this Guage from?
How much do you pump them up?
Mine bog cleaned it 5 times did nothing