Almost forgot to add the link to the e-drawing. It is quite simple but should be good enough for you to get started. imgur.com/a/dIIQWqd EDIT: Revised drawing with slightly reduced angles to help prevent the moving jaw from sticking.
great version of this type of clamp and thanks for the drawing. TheMetalRaymond did a similar thing, but bigger, chunkier and didn't bother with the dovetail. ruclips.net/video/IR2p9ceg1bw/видео.html The other thing he did which might interest you before you harden the front edge is the step the front so it has a much lower front face. You could easily do the same with you clamp if it were a bit thicker or you could bolt a jaw onto it. That way you'd be able to completely face a slab of material like the one you demoed.
Beautifully simple design, I really like it. In the absence of hard teeth to bite into the workpiece you could probably use a piece of emery paper between the clamp and workpiece to get some extra bite.
@@Hendreh1 The effectiveness of the clamping force is dependent on how steep or shallow the wedging angle is. There are 2 piece bed jaw systems working on this principle that hold the workpiece very firmly
@@howardosborne8647 as I said , I have really used These clamps. And the angle was not an issue . But the Holding force of the t-nut in the table . It Moves sideways.
Great project and simple to make, I can see having a set of these will get me down to ground zero when the vice isn't the greatest choice. Cheers and thanks!
I made a prototype without them, and you might see them in the video where I use them. They worked fine, but I seemed to get slightly better clamping with the dovetails, and they were a little easier to set up ands store. That's how I saw it, but you can always do it without them if want. Cheers
Nice video. If you take a few millimeters off the bottom of the moving jaw (making it shorter than the fixed piece), it will probably be useful in more situations/configurations.
Those should have a slight dab of moly or graphite grease, on the sliding surfaces of the dovetails and the Tnuts should be well greased aswell as the whole mechanism has a lot of interference with itself, the part its holding and the table`s tslots via tnuts while being tightened... A great design, tho its one, like a two piece vise, that i would use with a separate tslot base affixed to the mill table, as not to mangle the table, given that it essentially relies on the strength of the Tslots for its max clamping capacity, and when shit shifts around, you tend to crank it down doubly as hard, and that is a surefire way to excavate a chunk of your table... And the only thing as bad as that is getting caught by a machine itself and being mangled unto death...
@@artisanmakes Make friends at a local scrap yard! Tell them you're a hobby machinist and take along some items you have made. Offcuts from screw-machine shops and fabricators go a long way to reducing costs. Tool steel you can get from annealed automotive springs. For complex items such as machined-from-solid crank shafts I purchase a piece of stressproof aka 1144 machinery steel. Your low rise clamps are very nice and useful indeed. To resist wear and tear, case hardening or pack hardening would be a useful.
Nicely done, I think I might make some of these for my CNC! To get around the height issue, you could put another piece of material under the work piece to raise it up slightly. You would need something approximately the same size though, which might not always be practical.
Nice project. I would think that the dovetail isn't actually needed. Just the slot and tang would hold it in place. Not everyone is going to have dovetail cutters.
You don't have to add them.i made one without them and the clamping force was slightly better with them. Plus it helps align them so they are easier to set up and store. In my opinion they are worth adding but of course you can change up the design as much as you want to suit your set up.
This is brillant ! I am watching your videos for a long time and really appreciate all you achieve with hobby tools. And by the way, english is not my mother language, I love your accent !!!
The ole k.i.s.s. method for the win! I always feel you need to clamp something down, not across but that is a solid idea. The best part is if you need to clamp low objects you could use some thin stock in between the clamp and the part to be machined to give the cutter clearance? Just thinking out loud on that one. Keep up the good work!
I am concerned by potential T-slot damage. The fixed jaw is clamped to the table, with a compressive force applied to the cast iron table - equal and opposite along the T-slot bolt. The moving jaw is pulled down to the T-slot nut, but there is no equal and opposite force applied in the axis of the bolt (there is a gap between the jaw and the table), so there will be a torque and tension in the T-slot. Overtighten the clamp and the T-slot might break.
I made a prototype without them, and you might see them in the video where I use them. They worked fine, but I seemed to get slightly better clamping with the dovetails, and they were a little easier to set up. That's how I saw it. Cheers
I'm pretty sure you also need double T-slot nuts for this project ;) Basically a double length nut with two threads. It will serve many purposes: - clamp alignment - keeps the clamps together in storage - better force distribution and above everything else: It will just make some additional content for us to consume 😁😁😁
Nice video Artisan! If it would help you, there are hardened grip inserts on the market for brand name vise jaws. You could machine pockets for these and add them in your design if need arise. Have fun
Great design and I may well make up some myself. For the moveable jaw, if you milled it with an L shape so that only the bottom 5 - 10 mm is holding the work, this pushes the clamp back and allows access to mill the top of the work.
Congratulations for your work. I have just one suggestion for the moving part of the clamp. As you you tighten the screw, the T bolt will be both moved forward and upwards. This tiny forward movement could damage your milling bed from underneath. In order to prevent that, just mill an ellipse into the moving part, instead of a exact hole for the allen screw. I believe that this will allow a kind of "tilt" of the screw and this will prevent the milling bed from getting damaged. I am not quite sure if this is the best solution for that, but it is the one that I thought now.
Nicely made. Making the clamp with a dove tail isn't really necessary. A square slot or no slot at all would suffice. The clamping jaw isn't seeing any side loading or twisting as it is screwed down. Slotting the clamp screw hole, as some have suggested, isn't much needed either. A good clearance hole in the moving clamping block would be ample. Once set, the clamping block is only moving a few thousants of an inch against the work as it is clamped down If you don't bother cutting mating tongues and slots, you could make two or three of these clamps in no time. As rarely as you need them, I wouldn't bother hardening them. That way you can always modify the jaws for a specific job or just cut into them if needed since replacements are so easy to make.
You don't have to add them.i made one without them and the clamping force was slightly better with them. Plus it helps align them so they are easier to set up and store. In my opinion they are worth adding
Great idea and video. I've started making a set of these using your drawing as a starting point - just finished the dovetails (my first ever). I notice you have changed the drawing slightly so the moving jaw is the male part of the dovetail, but in the video you have them the other way round? Is there a preferred orientation for this kind of application or does it really not matter?
The claws with pull-down are very good, but must not be used for thin sheets. The other is the danger caused by twisted tools, where the tool tries to pull the material out of the claw or push it away. Attention: tool must be sharp, not too much, on the other hand always have a firm stop. Through a steel iron that sucks into the T groove and protrudes 1/4 lower than your finished measure
Will the off-axis engagement of the inner t-nut cause damage to your t-slots/t-nuts? I'm guessing that the cam-over will be pretty small, but I can't figure out if it is too small to cause problems. (PS comment mostly for algo bump ;-)
To answer your question, i don't know but I wouldn't assume so. If it is something that you might be worried about you can always just make one long t nut with two threaded holes so any deflection is taken up by the cap screw threads and the t nut should sit flush.
Not sure if I’ll actually machine this gadget, but your video gave me numerous other machining 💡’s & taught me a few Valuable Techniques!!!! Ripper Good Mate💯 Thank U👏👏👏👏👏👏 ☯️ZenModeling
Blow off the hack saw. "Diablo" makes a six inch carbide tip metal cutting circular saw. Use with a 6 inch cutoff (chop saw). Small and compact. They also have a blade for a reciprocal power saw...Also thumbs up...again.
Maybe this could work in screwless vice. I personally dislike the common type with a round piece that you have to move to a different position inside the vice. With this mechanism, the moving jaw can be placed any where.
Hi, could you tell me why the dovetail slots are necessary? Would a regular straight slot not suffice? or maybe no slots at all since the bolts will keep the clamps from sliding away? This is a genuine question to gain understanding and not intended to question your design.
Very nice! Very impressed! I think I may make a pair of these. What is your opinion on giving the moving jaw some teeth for bite? Do you think thats warranted?
there ya go, sitting here suffering my usual insomnia in 2:30am youtube hell, and a video from Artisan Makes pops up, how good is that! I might have a go at a set of these - I also reckon you could possibly get away without the dovetails ?, the T nuts would stop any potential for sideways movement?.
I made a prototype without them, and you might see them in the video where I use them. They worked fine, but I seemed to get slightly better clamping with the dovetails, and they were a little easier to set up. That's how I saw it. Cheers
@@jakubkopec9313 Indeed. A simpler method still would be to drill and ream a hole with its centre line parallel to the sliding surfaces. A fitted pin may be held in place with a small screw. Still, a dove tail holds the bits together during storage.
Im am going to try to make some of them, the only thing i would add is some serrations on the clamping face & maybe case harden them. Is it possible to get the drawings in PDF format?
Dont know if you have a welder but you could have, maybe, just welded to 'lugs' or bits of flat bar onto the metal you wish to machine, under the height of the surface you wish to cut. :/ this would mean parts would be hardened due to welding so it might not be suitable in all cases. Just a thought.
Whats with the runout on your mill spindle. Those are the most jank clamps I've ever seen. Since this is a tutorial you should have mentioned the part where you milled down the t nut.
Instead of hardening the clamping jaw, you could incorporate hardened serrated gripper inserts. McMaster Carr and CarrLane carry these. I was a tool and die designer years ago and designed many a fix and fixture with these type gripper inserts.
nice, i think it could even be done without the dovetail . Possibly does not need any lateral location, or if so just machine a shallow relief in the static part, or weld "shoulders/wings" on to it. Maybe even mate the two ramps in a vice and drill a hole down the seam, then drop a dowel pin in. Still I think it's the considerable friction that keeps it from moving, so the dovetail or any other guide is not needed.
Keeping them unhardened also means you can use them on finished surfaces on some materials and it won’t mar them. Of course you can add a softer face if that is a concern for other materials.
Make a low profile section into the clamping half that contacts the work piece and perhaps mill in some serations so the clamp can grip better. Consider you make the working piece side with a toe second that is about half the height of the dovetail. You need to make the toe section big enough such that the endmills you are using do not come in contact with the clamp. serations and case harding would help it grip parts better.
You don't have to add them.i made one without them and the clamping force was slightly better with them. Plus it helps align them so they are easier to set up and store. In my opinion they are worth adding
Very nicely done indeed, it’s simple, it’s clever, and supremely strong of all things well done I think I’m going to have to make myself a couple sets of these they’re beautifully made. Only things are I’d harden them and chamfer those sharp edges a lil even just breaking that edge .010 - .015 would do I think 🤔, well we’ll see I suppose.
Very nice job well designed and executed. Can you tell me what is the end mill holder in the last scene? I know you usually use R32 collets but this looks different. Cheers,
Almost forgot to add the link to the e-drawing. It is quite simple but should be good enough for you to get started. imgur.com/a/dIIQWqd
EDIT: Revised drawing with slightly reduced angles to help prevent the moving jaw from sticking.
link is not working But thats great and simple thanks for sharing cant wait to make my self.
Thanks mate, now I have something to work on rather than sitting on the Couch. Cheers my friend.👍🍻
@@mysterysniper910 the link works fine here
Maybe next time you use a file and hacksaw to cut steel, instead try using a cut off tool 😜 or steel cutting wire 🤣
great version of this type of clamp and thanks for the drawing.
TheMetalRaymond did a similar thing, but bigger, chunkier and didn't bother with the dovetail.
ruclips.net/video/IR2p9ceg1bw/видео.html
The other thing he did which might interest you before you harden the front edge is the step the front so it has a much lower front face. You could easily do the same with you clamp if it were a bit thicker or you could bolt a jaw onto it. That way you'd be able to completely face a slab of material like the one you demoed.
Nice work, man! You've got me thinking of some projects I would need these for just as an excuse to make a set
Side project- 1
Go ahead, i'd love to see you improve upon these
@@artisanmakes Not much I would change honestly. Maybe a unified t-nut so it all stays together. But thats just me being picky 😁
@@InheritanceMachining Looking forward to it...this is gonna be good!
Side projects for the side projects??
Beautifully simple design, I really like it. In the absence of hard teeth to bite into the workpiece you could probably use a piece of emery paper between the clamp and workpiece to get some extra bite.
Awesome idea. I nevet thought of that.
I had once these clamps . Be aware they hold much less than a vise or regular clamps
@@Hendreh1 The effectiveness of the clamping force is dependent on how steep or shallow the wedging angle is. There are 2 piece bed jaw systems working on this principle that hold the workpiece very firmly
@@howardosborne8647 as I said , I have really used These clamps. And the angle was not an issue . But the Holding force of the t-nut in the table . It Moves sideways.
@@Hendreh1 The simple solution there is to make a longer Tee nut which has a larger surface footprint.
Great project and simple to make, I can see having a set of these will get me down to ground zero when the vice isn't the greatest choice. Cheers and thanks!
Interesting idea. I'm guessing it would work without the dovetails too...
I made a prototype without them, and you might see them in the video where I use them. They worked fine, but I seemed to get slightly better clamping with the dovetails, and they were a little easier to set up ands store. That's how I saw it, but you can always do it without them if want. Cheers
I'd guess even a simple keyway would be fine. Anything to keep the halves located in the presence of lateral force would serve the purpose, no?
Im sure you could approach this many different ways and get similar results
Nice video. If you take a few millimeters off the bottom of the moving jaw (making it shorter than the fixed piece), it will probably be useful in more situations/configurations.
I am sure that would be an excellent idea
Those should have a slight dab of moly or graphite grease, on the sliding surfaces of the dovetails and the Tnuts should be well greased aswell as the whole mechanism has a lot of interference with itself, the part its holding and the table`s tslots via tnuts while being tightened... A great design, tho its one, like a two piece vise, that i would use with a separate tslot base affixed to the mill table, as not to mangle the table, given that it essentially relies on the strength of the Tslots for its max clamping capacity, and when shit shifts around, you tend to crank it down doubly as hard, and that is a surefire way to excavate a chunk of your table... And the only thing as bad as that is getting caught by a machine itself and being mangled unto death...
I like the Eccentric Cam Lock style but I can see myself making a set of these in S7 and run them Thru the Ovens.
Great design! I’ve been looking for something exactly like this. Any chance you’ll be making any more?
I probably will once I get more material, everything seems to be on backorder at the suppliers these days :)
@@artisanmakes Make friends at a local scrap yard! Tell them you're a hobby machinist and take along some items you have made.
Offcuts from screw-machine shops and fabricators go a long way to reducing costs.
Tool steel you can get from annealed automotive springs.
For complex items such as machined-from-solid crank shafts I purchase a piece of stressproof aka 1144 machinery steel.
Your low rise clamps are very nice and useful indeed. To resist wear and tear, case hardening or pack hardening would be a useful.
Nicely done, I think I might make some of these for my CNC! To get around the height issue, you could put another piece of material under the work piece to raise it up slightly. You would need something approximately the same size though, which might not always be practical.
I was thinking of the same thing. Perhaps the riser piece could be longer on one axis and clamped at the ends sticking past the actual work piece?
Wonderful design. I thought of a floating vice (e.g. this old tony)... yours is much simpler and a very elegant design.
Sell em and ill buy a few
I really appreciate the lengths you’re willing to go to maximize what you can do on a modest sized mill.
Wow....easy to make , reliable method of clamping, and cheap.... all 3 points a home diy machinist is looking for thanks for sharing!!!!!
Nice project. I would think that the dovetail isn't actually needed. Just the slot and tang would hold it in place. Not everyone is going to have dovetail cutters.
You don't have to add them.i made one without them and the clamping force was slightly better with them. Plus it helps align them so they are easier to set up and store. In my opinion they are worth adding but of course you can change up the design as much as you want to suit your set up.
This is brillant !
I am watching your videos for a long time and really appreciate all you achieve with hobby tools. And by the way, english is not my mother language, I love your accent !!!
The ole k.i.s.s. method for the win!
I always feel you need to clamp something down, not across but that is a solid idea. The best part is if you need to clamp low objects you could use some thin stock in between
the clamp and the part to be machined to give the cutter clearance? Just thinking out loud on that one.
Keep up the good work!
Yeah I'm sure there are many ways of going about using them
I am concerned by potential T-slot damage. The fixed jaw is clamped to the table, with a compressive force applied to the cast iron table - equal and opposite along the T-slot bolt. The moving jaw is pulled down to the T-slot nut, but there is no equal and opposite force applied in the axis of the bolt (there is a gap between the jaw and the table), so there will be a torque and tension in the T-slot. Overtighten the clamp and the T-slot might break.
Simple and effective design. Love it.
Like it, the dove tale wasnt entirely nessasery,, as the bolts center in the tslot? Whats your thoughts?
I made a prototype without them, and you might see them in the video where I use them. They worked fine, but I seemed to get slightly better clamping with the dovetails, and they were a little easier to set up. That's how I saw it. Cheers
I'm pretty sure you also need double T-slot nuts for this project ;) Basically a double length nut with two threads. It will serve many purposes:
- clamp alignment
- keeps the clamps together in storage
- better force distribution
and above everything else: It will just make some additional content for us to consume 😁😁😁
that would actually work against the mechanics of the clamp as the two bolts slightly move together while clamping...
Nice video Artisan!
If it would help you, there are hardened grip inserts on the market for brand name vise jaws. You could machine pockets for these and add them in your design if need arise.
Have fun
Great design and I may well make up some myself.
For the moveable jaw, if you milled it with an L shape so that only the bottom 5 - 10 mm is holding the work, this pushes the clamp back and allows access to mill the top of the work.
I like the design and simplicity of these clamps. I reckon these would also be useful on the shaper table to hold stock for light finishing cuts.
Hi , Thank you for sharing this helpful item, will be a great asset, thanks for supplying the plan. Top videos and top knowledge passed on.
Congratulations for your work. I have just one suggestion for the moving part of the clamp. As you you tighten the screw, the T bolt will be both moved forward and upwards. This tiny forward movement could damage your milling bed from underneath. In order to prevent that, just mill an ellipse into the moving part, instead of a exact hole for the allen screw. I believe that this will allow a kind of "tilt" of the screw and this will prevent the milling bed from getting damaged. I am not quite sure if this is the best solution for that, but it is the one that I thought now.
Couldn't yo use a spacer or set of small parallels to lift the part above the clamps??
I like it and a sliver of sandpaper between the part and the clamp could be added for extra holding. Thanks for sharing!
That's absolutely ingenious!
Nicely made. Making the clamp with a dove tail isn't really necessary. A square slot or no slot at all would suffice. The clamping jaw isn't seeing any side loading or twisting as it is screwed down. Slotting the clamp screw hole, as some have suggested, isn't much needed either. A good clearance hole in the moving clamping block would be ample. Once set, the clamping block is only moving a few thousants of an inch against the work as it is clamped down
If you don't bother cutting mating tongues and slots, you could make two or three of these clamps in no time. As rarely as you need them, I wouldn't bother hardening them. That way you can always modify the jaws for a specific job or just cut into them if needed since replacements are so easy to make.
My thoughts exactly!
You don't have to add them.i made one without them and the clamping force was slightly better with them. Plus it helps align them so they are easier to set up and store. In my opinion they are worth adding
Nice idea. I wonder though - Couldn't a simpler 'tongue and groove' joint be made to work just as well?
Thanks. That is a really simple but very useful tool.
Cheers from Canada
very nice, but the second locking bolt should be a stud for more downword gripping movement !!
Great idea and video. I've started making a set of these using your drawing as a starting point - just finished the dovetails (my first ever). I notice you have changed the drawing slightly so the moving jaw is the male part of the dovetail, but in the video you have them the other way round? Is there a preferred orientation for this kind of application or does it really not matter?
The claws with pull-down are very good, but must not be used for thin sheets. The other is the danger caused by twisted tools, where the tool tries to pull the material out of the claw or push it away. Attention: tool must be sharp, not too much, on the other hand always have a firm stop. Through a steel iron that sucks into the T groove and protrudes 1/4 lower than your finished measure
For those interested in a different design, see Blondihacks "Let's make low profile side clamps!":
ruclips.net/video/E5pW4PDv6JU/видео.html
I remember those from a while back. Great bit of design but they don't offer any downwards force on the part. Cheers
I also designed similar to these for making puller head grinding at surface grinder with the help of surface grinder VICE
Nice. I feel sorry for you every time I see you using that hacksaw, time to build a saw....
Great work. Amazing stuff
Will the off-axis engagement of the inner t-nut cause damage to your t-slots/t-nuts? I'm guessing that the cam-over will be pretty small, but I can't figure out if it is too small to cause problems. (PS comment mostly for algo bump ;-)
To answer your question, i don't know but I wouldn't assume so. If it is something that you might be worried about you can always just make one long t nut with two threaded holes so any deflection is taken up by the cap screw threads and the t nut should sit flush.
@@artisanmakes of you do that you will probably need to make the hole in the moving part of the clamp into a slot
You could also do that too
Beautiful design! Hats off to you.
dove tail or just a groove? for those who don't have a dove tail cutter?
Why not prefer a cam screw eccentric clamp instead? That way you would have access to all the part?
I got curious about how would you make the one with the captive screw
Nice work. Have you considered case hardening your clamp? From what I read, it will improve their wear characteristics dramatically.
Wait about two weeks and ill have a case hardening video up. Case hardening does work but it is a very involved and drawn out process. cheers
Side clamps underestimated but very important
Great idea and video! Thanks for sharing it. :) -Mike
Please make a video for maintaining the milling table surface 😊
I think a tang on the bottom would be of help. It would keep it from twisting
i feel a project coming on, i just finished making my self a sine bar so need something
Not sure if I’ll actually machine this gadget, but your video gave me numerous other machining 💡’s & taught me a few Valuable Techniques!!!!
Ripper Good Mate💯 Thank U👏👏👏👏👏👏
☯️ZenModeling
Low profile clamps in printing press. Letterpress quoins.
LOL, why better then the ones This Old Tony tried to make.
Great idea!
Dang my problem is to much stock material
Footed springs under front clamp.
FYI... A lot of company have already beaten you to it. And it doesn't use two T-nut. Just one.
Try search for fixture clamp or wedge clamp.
Thanks for sharing this with us!
Blow off the hack saw. "Diablo" makes a six inch carbide tip metal cutting circular saw. Use with a 6 inch cutoff (chop saw). Small and compact. They also have a blade for a reciprocal power saw...Also thumbs up...again.
Could these be made with straight cuts instead of dovetails to simplify the machining or would they not work correctly like that?
you certainly can, they just take a bit more care to keep aligned before tightening
But this isn't stopping the z-axis jumping of the workpiece, if while the drilling operations...how you do that..
The clamps should prevent this because they exert a downwards pressure on the part.
Very good design! So far, I like your the most, than I like Harold Hall's. I'll be needing them really soon.
Maybe this could work in screwless vice. I personally dislike the common type with a round piece that you have to move to a different position inside the vice. With this mechanism, the moving jaw can be placed any where.
Hi, could you tell me why the dovetail slots are necessary? Would a regular straight slot not suffice? or maybe no slots at all since the bolts will keep the clamps from sliding away? This is a genuine question to gain understanding and not intended to question your design.
Helps keep everything aligned when it’s not clamped
Very nice! Very impressed! I think I may make a pair of these. What is your opinion on giving the moving jaw some teeth for bite? Do you think thats warranted?
Well thought out young fellar--first class idea and explanation..--thanks a million E
there ya go, sitting here suffering my usual insomnia in 2:30am youtube hell, and a video from Artisan Makes pops up, how good is that! I might have a go at a set of these - I also reckon you could possibly get away without the dovetails ?, the T nuts would stop any potential for sideways movement?.
I made a prototype without them, and you might see them in the video where I use them. They worked fine, but I seemed to get slightly better clamping with the dovetails, and they were a little easier to set up. That's how I saw it. Cheers
You can replace dovetail with a right angle groove.
@@jakubkopec9313 Indeed. A simpler method still would be to drill and ream a hole with its centre line parallel to the sliding surfaces. A fitted pin may be held in place with a small screw.
Still, a dove tail holds the bits together during storage.
Yeah im sure that you could do that
Im am going to try to make some of them, the only thing i would add is some serrations on the clamping face & maybe case harden them.
Is it possible to get the drawings in PDF format?
Dont know if you have a welder but you could have, maybe, just welded to 'lugs' or bits of flat bar onto the metal you wish to machine, under the height of the surface you wish to cut. :/ this would mean parts would be hardened due to welding so it might not be suitable in all cases. Just a thought.
What an Excellent design, simple and effective, the way it should be…
Whats with the runout on your mill spindle. Those are the most jank clamps I've ever seen. Since this is a tutorial you should have mentioned the part where you milled down the t nut.
What run out are you referring to, last time I checked it was below 0.01mm. and the clamps work perfectly fine
I actually love how clean your machine is and how nice you keep it. My machines are always covered in coolant and swarf. Great work 👌
Nice.
I never think of using my fly cutters that way. Smart
Instead of hardening the clamping jaw, you could incorporate hardened serrated gripper inserts. McMaster Carr and CarrLane carry these. I was a tool and die designer years ago and designed many a fix and fixture with these type gripper inserts.
nice, i think it could even be done without the dovetail . Possibly does not need any lateral location, or if so just machine a shallow relief in the static part, or weld "shoulders/wings" on to it. Maybe even mate the two ramps in a vice and drill a hole down the seam, then drop a dowel pin in. Still I think it's the considerable friction that keeps it from moving, so the dovetail or any other guide is not needed.
Great video. I just might make a few of these today. :) Thanks for sharing.
whats your make and model of mini mill? thats a perfect size for a friend of mine whos looking for a benchtop mill.
Sieg x 2.7l
Is the dovetail even necessary?
Smart idea them 👍🏻
Thatsa fantastic mechanism, simple but elegant and sensible....very cool.
Where abouts in aus are you fella?
What an elegant solution! I've been pondering how to make a clamp to do this job I will be making my own set very soon!
Nice video shot, thank you for sharing it , keep it up:)
Keeping them unhardened also means you can use them on finished surfaces on some materials and it won’t mar them. Of course you can add a softer face if that is a concern for other materials.
I ……… LIKE IT! Nice job cobb.
Where abouts are you?
Any tips i can use for my table ? I don’t have t slots any other thing i can use to hold it down?
www.clickspringprojects.com/vise-sub-table.html
That's a clever idea!
Idk about anyone else but I really enjoy watching / hearing that fly cutter
Isn't the V-slot bit unnecessary?
It looks cools, but it does not really do anything.
Makes easier to set the work up.
Make a low profile section into the clamping half that contacts the work piece and perhaps mill in some serations so the clamp can grip better. Consider you make the working piece side with a toe second that is about half the height of the dovetail. You need to make the toe section big enough such that the endmills you are using do not come in contact with the clamp. serations and case harding would help it grip parts better.
the dovetail isn't necessary at all but is a nice feature though.. amazing job
You don't have to add them.i made one without them and the clamping force was slightly better with them. Plus it helps align them so they are easier to set up and store. In my opinion they are worth adding
Very nicely done indeed, it’s simple, it’s clever, and supremely strong of all things well done I think I’m going to have to make myself a couple sets of these they’re beautifully made. Only things are I’d harden them and chamfer those sharp edges a lil even just breaking that edge .010 - .015 would do I think 🤔, well we’ll see I suppose.
really nice , definately make some for my mill, thankyou for the video
Heat shrink tooling???
Hi, superb design. Can the clamp push the part flat downward to the table? Or will there be a little gap?
Why do all your sentences end with an upward inflection? It so annoying to hear it over and over.
Damaged laryx, not much i can do
That is so clever!
I´m gonna make myself a set of those I think :D
Very nice job well designed and executed. Can you tell me what is the end mill holder in the last scene? I know you usually use R32 collets but this looks different. Cheers,
Looks like an hydraulic chuck...
@@Jabba410 Im relatively new to machining so never heard or seen one before. A little googling revealed something new- thanks.
It is a custom heat shrink tool that i made a while back
Awesome. Thanks for the video and the drawing
Lovely work, if the piece clamping the work had a step to clear the cutting tool I think that would help as well, nicely done.