Perfect video. I've watched a couple that left me shaking my head. This one shows the practical ways of getting from point A to Z and makes the most sense of any I've watched.
Great video guys! For all who asked about 'why the sink is set even with the top of the cabinet instead of the top of the plywood sub-counter'. They did this because if you ever have to replace a farmhouse sink, it is done by pulling out from the front of the cabinet (not drop down like an under-mount sink). So the counter guys have to make a dropped edge around the farmhouse sink (under-mount sinks don't often have this). Also . . . your plywood sub-counter has to be cut back behind the outside edge of the sink to make room for this drop miter edge. Take a close look at most pictures of counters around a farmhouse sink and you will see this. Hope this helps all you do-it-yourselfers! Thanks again "How to Hacks" !!! Nice job!
The color cabinets I want and style didn't offer a farmsink base. I thought I had to choose a different one but here is this video! As long as my cabinet doors don't interfere with the sink, I can still get everything I want! And flipping the cabinet and sink over to mark it, well, genius! Also adding the supports and putting the screws on the outside of the cabinet before installing the cabinet is a great touch. No one will see the screws. Thank you so much for this simple easy to understand video!
Very good techniques and nice photography. I have never used a farmhouse sink, so this was a great primer to educate me for the next house I'm building which will have my first farmhouse sink.
Flipping the cabinet over is a good idea. I’m installing my second farm sink right now, but I already installed the cabinets. I’m going to use a template fo fit my sink.
All I have is 3" access from the back of the sink to the wall. No way to install hardware and plumbing. I had a guy install the vanity and sink, but the hardware wasn't on site yet. I was hoping there may be a trick I can use to avoid removing the sink, but I guess not. I'll just have to remove all the silicone and slide out the sink. I do like the idea of replacing the cross board with something smaller for better access 9:30. Thanks for the video on the detail I was looking for. Also I wanted to add that my sink has 4 adjustment screws below on cross boards, to raise the sink to a perfect height. The front of the vanity is open (no doors), so the height/depth of the sink itself could vary and still be adjusted to suit.
Turning the cabinet over with the sink in front is a good idea. Ive always made a template to fit to the irregularities, and differences side to side, of porcelain sinks. Some farm sinks have radius corners on the bottom and top. Again different on each side. Ill share how to if you're interested. Sink can be a focal point so it needs to be perfect. Thanks for the video.
Ok, say your sink is 36" wide and 9' high. Use a piece of 3/4 plywood 12"or so x8'. Make a box out if it. 38+- by 11+-. Put the sink in it and let it stick through as it will once it's installed and same amount as desired overhang. Use 1/8 or 1/4 luan 3" wide. Cut 2 pieces 43" and 2 pieces 15". First long piece goes flat against the edge of box and down on top of sink. Tack to box with dabs of hot glue. Next scribe side piece to each side of sink and once they fit perfectly, hot glue them in place on top of top strip. Place bottom strip under the sink and over side pieces and hot glue together. Gently slip off the sink and pull away. Top piece of luan will sit on top of panel to be cut on sink cabinet. Center template, trace inside template. Cut/sand to the line. I've always kept the box and I since I remodel kitchens for a living, I use it quite a bit. What do you think?
@@ThePhunt60 The only problem I see with this is that this puts the sink flush with the counter top. Manufacturers recommend leaving a 1/16 to 1/8 inch gap at the top for sealant/silicone.
I don’t. You just want to caulk where the sink meets the countertop. Pick a tub and tile caulk that can be cleaned with water. Remove any old caulk if it’s loose, there too much, or it looks bad. Use a utility knife to cut the caulk loose and take your time. Be sure not to press hard when cutting. The apply a bead of the new caulk, use your finger to smooth and the caulk, and a damp rag to clean up the excess.
Is there a reason you did not add a 4x4 under the floor (between the bottom and the floor) to assist with the weight? I like how you changed your 'stops'. My plumbing is through the floor so I will have additional issues but I loved the upside down approach. Brilliant!
Thanks. You can add additional framing under the cabinet if you want but in my case it wasn’t necessary. The plywood bottom of my cabinet is slotted into the side of cabinet so it’s plenty strong.
I just ran a level across and made it even with the top of the cabinets. That way the countertop is completely supported. Most farm sinks have a rounded edge so there is plenty of room so seal between the sink and countertop with caulk.
I'm in the process of doing the same at home .I was wondering.,just a 💭 thought 🤔 and I'm thinking of doing the foam on sides and back and just cutting any foam away after .what do you think.? Cool video .
Great video. What size was the cabinet and what size was the farm sink? I’ve read that the cabinet should be 3 inches more than the sink. Is that true?
On average I install two to three of these per week, just make a template. It is by far easier to do. I use 1/8" or 1/4 luan ply strips 3" wide I scribe the pieces to sink sides about 2 " back from front where it will make contact with sink base cabinet. Why? Because I have had sinks that were wider at the front and tapered back where it makes contact with the base. I glue the template together with hot melt after it is fit properly with sink. Clamp template on cab front, trace it and cut it out at the pencil line, back bevel your cut through cabinet. You may have to touch it up with a sanding block by hand sanding. In over 30 years doing this, I find a template is the best method. Do not make templates from cardboard . Cardboard is soft and will not give you the actual profile of sink.
I just read your comment and followed your advice about making a template. I just cut out, built out and installed a sink yesterday. This was especially helpful since these sinks are often irregular (the front is not the same as the back as you said). Mine was opposite than yours so I had to cut the front face of the cabinet 1/16 wider on both sides (1/8 wider total). Thank you for adding this option to these guys page. I'm sure they appreciate it too.
@@shakashon The fire clay sinks are tricky, no two are alike. I'm happy my template trick helped you get it right. I have installed over a hundred of these sinks and all fit perfect with this method.
I like the flipping the thing upside down, but doesn’t there need to be like an 1/8” gap so the counter guys can silicone between the sink and counter?
Possibly if the sink is square on the top edge. The sink I used in the video had a round edge so it gave plenty of space for caulk. If you do leave a gap an 1/8 might be excessive.
Very fine work. I like your method of laying out the sink v/s using a provided paper template. I'm definitely going to use your method. I have one question. I am assuming your sink is basically going to be considered an under mount. Did you drop the elevation of the sink lower than where the bottom of the countertop is going to be to allow for sealing with silicone caulk. And if so, how much?
Thanks. This sink had rounded edges so I just made the sink flush with the top of the cabinet. Going flush with the top of the cabinet should work with any sink.
Beautiful Job! i have a question maybe you can help answer since your obviously an expert installer- i have an older home with a soffit that cannot be removed-height is 82 inches but my new cabinet pantry is 84 inches - do you suggest trimming the toe kick or trimming soffit?
I think trimming the soffit will look better. However, it depends if there are any mechanicals in that soffit like plumbing/electrical and how much room there is to reduce it. If you start tearing into the soffit you will probably end up rebuilding the whole thing unfortunately. Trimming the toe kick down 2 inches will only leave a 1.5 to 2.5 inch tall space which will look strange in my opinion. You can also cut the whole toe kick out and build a platform that is even with the cabinet (same size) and cover it will trim. This will eliminate the toe kick completely but won’t look unusual. Hope this helps.
@@fairoaks42so I found someone ask the same question further down finally with a reply. Sounds like it’s just a preference. He said he’s read anywhere from 3/4” to 2”.
Link to the sink used in this video. amzn.to/3Egfb0c BOCCHI 1139-001-0120 Classico Apron Front Fireclay 33 in. Double Bowl Kitchen Sink 33 x 18 x 10 inches
Awesome. Thanks for the video, helped me plan out my build for my cabinet. Couple questions.. What is the reveal left on the sides of it? And did you do anything to secure the actual sink to the cabinet? Any adhesives or anything? Thanks!
Reveal is 1.75 inches. The weight of the countertop, silicone caulk between the sink and the countertop, and the drain assembly will hold the sink in place.
Thank you for this video - very helpful! Should the sink supports you put in under the sink line up even with the front of the cabinet or should they be slightly higher?
I read further found the answer, video very helpful thank you! How to Hacks: 3 months ago Once they set the counter on they caulk along the top edge. That caulk and the drain assembly hold it in place.
I want to install an old sink that is extremely heavy, I believe in excess of 100kg. Can anyone offer advice about building a structure able to support this? Would the principles shown in this video be ok for me? I’m working with wood, and want to avoid installing a steel frame. Any feedback greatly appreciated.
@@HowtoHacks I was just thinking the same thing whilst pondering the project this morning. I appreciate your confirmation of the viability of this approach because it will be my first attempt at a project like this and I don’t have the experience to fall back on. I was beginning to feel a bit intimidated by the sheer weight of this thing but you’ve allayed my fears. Thank you.
There is no standard measurement that I’m aware of. I did 1” past the countertop overhang. You can also set it even with the countertop if you want. I think most farm sinks are overhanging the cabinet 3/4 to 2”.
The counter prevents the sink from moving up. Also, after the counter is put in the sink is caulked with silicon along the counter edge. Silicon holds a lot after is sets up. The drain assembly will also hold some.
Circular saw with a make shift guide to make a track saw makes a perfectly straight cut while a jigsaw can be a little shifty. However, you could make a track for the jigsaw as well, it would just be slower cutting . For the blade, I had a brand new one laying around so I just used that. Don’t remember how fine it is but the more teeth the smoother the cut. I would get a blade rated for trim work to get the best cut.
You just have to modify the cabinet to make it fit. Without seeing exactly what you have and are trying to do it’s hard to say exactly what you should do.
Interesting. With the way the sinks end touch the sides of the cabinet I thought you did a 33 in cabinet. How far out did you extend the apron past the bottom cabinets?
I like the 10 inch deep bowls. I believe this one is 11 inches deep from the top lip to the bottom outside. However, it could also depend on what will fit where you are going to install it. If it’s an existing cabinet you could potentially be limited to what you can install.
One problem with your instalation. The weight from the pull out hose for your faucet will hit the 2x4 behind the sink and clunk every time your pull it out and get hung up when you want to retract it.
Because I traced on the opposite side from the sink initially. This left a gap between the line and the edge of the sink that was the thickness of the framing square. The framing square I used was about 1/16th on an inch thick which is enough to notice.
I’m struggling to find a cabinet base that would allow me to make the cuts as you have for the farmhouse sink. My sink is 30x18 and 10 inches height. Most home outlet places locally with unfinished cabinets have told me just cut into the area where the front cabinet doors are. I want to avoid that if possible. Do you have any recommendations ?
Probably not but it does help to have an extra set of hands to hold the cabinet so it doesn’t move while the other is sanding or cutting and to lift the sink for test fits. Also, cabinets are expensive with a long lead time. Especially custom cabinets. One slip up and the results could bad. So having an extra set of hands and eyes to double check stuff for that short period is worth it.
Éric Ranger Éric Ranger 0 seconds ago Shouldn’t you put at least a little bit of caulking underneath the sink to make it “stick” to the cabinet? Just to “lay” the sink over the cabinet seems… a little “cowboy” to me! Yes or no?
Words matter!!! You are not INSTALLING a farm sink into a kitchen cabinet which is the video Im looking for. You are BUILDING a kitchen cabinet for a farm sink. Big difference, as Im looking to modify the existing cabinet, not build a new cabinet which I can do, but just dont want to in this case.
@@TheBestAsianGamer No, I gave up looking and just modified what I had based on pictures of farm sink cabinets. I took a typical 60" W sink base cabinet I bought at Home Depot (I didnt have the time to build one as I was getting some surgery) and just built a platform in it for the sink to sit on. I obviously had to remove that board in the front, up top, just above the doors and cut the doors down to size so they fit under the platform\sink. Theres still a lot of cabinet space underneath as I installed the platform about 7" down from the top of the cabinet.
Perfect video. I've watched a couple that left me shaking my head. This one shows the practical ways of getting from point A to Z and makes the most sense of any I've watched.
Thanks and glad to help
That’s brilliant flipping the cabinet upside down to scribe the sink.
Thanks
Great video guys!
For all who asked about 'why the sink is set even with the top of the cabinet instead of the top of the plywood sub-counter'.
They did this because if you ever have to replace a farmhouse sink, it is done by pulling out from the front of the cabinet (not drop down like an under-mount sink). So the counter guys have to make a dropped edge around the farmhouse sink (under-mount sinks don't often have this).
Also . . . your plywood sub-counter has to be cut back behind the outside edge of the sink to make room for this drop miter edge.
Take a close look at most pictures of counters around a farmhouse sink and you will see this.
Hope this helps all you do-it-yourselfers!
Thanks again "How to Hacks" !!!
Nice job!
As a female doing her own farm sink....THANK YOU so much for taking it step by step .😊
You’re welcome
Thank you so much for your video. I've built a number of cabinets for farm sinks as well as installing. Your workmanship and methods are impeccable!
Thanks for the kind words.
Thx guys. I watched the video a dozen times. Jigsaw was the answer for me. Took forever cutting 1/2 oak. Total time with plenty of 🍻 was about 12 hrs.
The color cabinets I want and style didn't offer a farmsink base. I thought I had to choose a different one but here is this video! As long as my cabinet doors don't interfere with the sink, I can still get everything I want! And flipping the cabinet and sink over to mark it, well, genius! Also adding the supports and putting the screws on the outside of the cabinet before installing the cabinet is a great touch. No one will see the screws. Thank you so much for this simple easy to understand video!
Thank you so much I was wondering how I would keep my farmhouse sink from going in to far thanks for the block ideas ❤
omg turning cabinet and sink upside down is simple brilliance. Was wondering how I was gonna scribe that. thanks so much
You’re welcome
Like the details and extra effort making it square and reinforcing the weight of the sink, great job.
Thanks
Very good techniques and nice photography.
I have never used a farmhouse sink, so this was a great primer to educate me for the next house I'm building which will have my first farmhouse sink.
Thanks
Flipping the cabinet over is a good idea. I’m installing my second farm sink right now, but I already installed the cabinets. I’m going to use a template fo fit my sink.
Great video, made this very simple to understand
Thank you for the video. This is what is next for us to do tomorrow. Now I have a good idea how we will go about it.
All I have is 3" access from the back of the sink to the wall. No way to install hardware and plumbing. I had a guy install the vanity and sink, but the hardware wasn't on site yet. I was hoping there may be a trick I can use to avoid removing the sink, but I guess not. I'll just have to remove all the silicone and slide out the sink. I do like the idea of replacing the cross board with something smaller for better access 9:30. Thanks for the video on the detail I was looking for.
Also I wanted to add that my sink has 4 adjustment screws below on cross boards, to raise the sink to a perfect height. The front of the vanity is open (no doors), so the height/depth of the sink itself could vary and still be adjusted to suit.
Exactly what I needed to see! Thanks!
wow, I've put in a lot of those fired clay farm sinks; never had one with straight edges. I've always had to make a templet and route out the opening
Turning the cabinet over with the sink in front is a good idea. Ive always made a template to fit to the irregularities, and differences side to side, of porcelain sinks. Some farm sinks have radius corners on the bottom and top. Again different on each side. Ill share how to if you're interested. Sink can be a focal point so it needs to be perfect. Thanks for the video.
Sure, go ahead and share.
Ok, say your sink is 36" wide and 9' high. Use a piece of 3/4 plywood 12"or so x8'. Make a box out if it. 38+- by 11+-. Put the sink in it and let it stick through as it will once it's installed and same amount as desired overhang. Use 1/8 or 1/4 luan 3" wide. Cut 2 pieces 43" and 2 pieces 15". First long piece goes flat against the edge of box and down on top of sink. Tack to box with dabs of hot glue. Next scribe side piece to each side of sink and once they fit perfectly, hot glue them in place on top of top strip. Place bottom strip under the sink and over side pieces and hot glue together. Gently slip off the sink and pull away. Top piece of luan will sit on top of panel to be cut on sink cabinet. Center template, trace inside template. Cut/sand to the line. I've always kept the box and I since I remodel kitchens for a living, I use it quite a bit. What do you think?
I like it. I don’t know when I’ll do another one of these sinks but I’ll remember this if there’s a next time and I decide to try a template.
@@ThePhunt60 The only problem I see with this is that this puts the sink flush with the counter top. Manufacturers recommend leaving a 1/16 to 1/8 inch gap at the top for sealant/silicone.
As said by others brilliant flipping upside down.
Nice work. That's how I'm going to do it. Thanks!
Thank you for the video! It’s very informative! Can you please share information for the cabinets used in the video?
These are Medallion cabinets. Colors are Irish Cream and Islander I believe. Island is also oak.
Do you have any videos on how to caulk a farmhouse sink. Mine needs to be redone.
I don’t. You just want to caulk where the sink meets the countertop. Pick a tub and tile caulk that can be cleaned with water. Remove any old caulk if it’s loose, there too much, or it looks bad. Use a utility knife to cut the caulk loose and take your time. Be sure not to press hard when cutting. The apply a bead of the new caulk, use your finger to smooth and the caulk, and a damp rag to clean up the excess.
I was at a crossroads when I was trying to get my in...I had an epiphany and did the same exact thing then secured it with premium 2x4s and silicone.
nice work
Is there a reason you did not add a 4x4 under the floor (between the bottom and the floor) to assist with the weight? I like how you changed your 'stops'. My plumbing is through the floor so I will have additional issues but I loved the upside down approach. Brilliant!
Thanks. You can add additional framing under the cabinet if you want but in my case it wasn’t necessary. The plywood bottom of my cabinet is slotted into the side of cabinet so it’s plenty strong.
Very nice! is there a clearance between the top of sink and countertop? 1/8" maybe?
I just ran a level across and made it even with the top of the cabinets. That way the countertop is completely supported. Most farm sinks have a rounded edge so there is plenty of room so seal between the sink and countertop with caulk.
I'm in the process of doing the same at home .I was wondering.,just a 💭 thought 🤔 and I'm thinking of doing the foam on sides and back and just cutting any foam away after .what do you think.?
Cool video .
You mean foam on the inside of the cabinet to support the sink?
@@HowtoHacks the framing is supporting the sink the foam would be to kinda make it snug on sides and back.
@@praiselifeworshiplife1ca That’s fine to do and should help hold it in place.
well done, love to all
Thanks
Do you have an uploaded video for the final outcome of the sink?
I don’t at the moment. I can add one and let you know.
Great video thumbs up 👍
🎉thanks bud!
Great video. What size was the cabinet and what size was the farm sink? I’ve read that the cabinet should be 3 inches more than the sink. Is that true?
36 inch cabinet 33 inch sink
Thanks for sharing.
On average I install two to three of these per week, just make a template. It is by far easier to do. I use 1/8" or 1/4 luan ply strips 3" wide I scribe the pieces to sink sides about 2 " back from front where it will make contact with sink base cabinet. Why? Because I have had sinks that were wider at the front and tapered back where it makes contact with the base. I glue the template together with hot melt after it is fit properly with sink. Clamp template on cab front, trace it and cut it out at the pencil line, back bevel your cut through cabinet. You may have to touch it up with a sanding block by hand sanding. In over 30 years doing this, I find a template is the best method. Do not make templates from cardboard . Cardboard is soft and will not give you the actual profile of sink.
Solid advice!
I just read your comment and followed your advice about making a template. I just cut out, built out and installed a sink yesterday.
This was especially helpful since these sinks are often irregular (the front is not the same as the back as you said).
Mine was opposite than yours so I had to cut the front face of the cabinet 1/16 wider on both sides (1/8 wider total).
Thank you for adding this option to these guys page. I'm sure they appreciate it too.
@@shakashon The fire clay sinks are tricky, no two are alike. I'm happy my template trick helped you get it right. I have installed over a hundred of these sinks and all fit perfect with this method.
I like the flipping the thing upside down, but doesn’t there need to be like an 1/8” gap so the counter guys can silicone between the sink and counter?
Possibly if the sink is square on the top edge. The sink I used in the video had a round edge so it gave plenty of space for caulk. If you do leave a gap an 1/8 might be excessive.
Great video
Thanks
Very fine work. I like your method of laying out the sink v/s using a provided paper template. I'm definitely going to use your method.
I have one question. I am assuming your sink is basically going to be considered an under mount. Did you drop the elevation of the sink lower than where the bottom of the countertop is going to be to allow for sealing with silicone caulk. And if so, how much?
Thanks. This sink had rounded edges so I just made the sink flush with the top of the cabinet. Going flush with the top of the cabinet should work with any sink.
@@HowtoHacks Cool. Thanks for the response.
Beautiful Job! i have a question maybe you can help answer since your obviously an expert installer- i have an older home with a soffit that cannot be removed-height is 82 inches but my new cabinet pantry is 84 inches - do you suggest trimming the toe kick or trimming soffit?
I think trimming the soffit will look better. However, it depends if there are any mechanicals in that soffit like plumbing/electrical and how much room there is to reduce it. If you start tearing into the soffit you will probably end up rebuilding the whole thing unfortunately. Trimming the toe kick down 2 inches will only leave a 1.5 to 2.5 inch tall space which will look strange in my opinion. You can also cut the whole toe kick out and build a platform that is even with the cabinet (same size) and cover it will trim. This will eliminate the toe kick completely but won’t look unusual. Hope this helps.
How many inches past the counter to you hold the sink out. I know it should be out past the countertop but is there a standard inch amount?
So a heart is nice but an answer would be preferred 🤷♀️😉
This is what I came to ask as well. How dare back do you decide to place it? Is it a standard amount of space or a preference?
@@fairoaks42so I found someone ask the same question further down finally with a reply. Sounds like it’s just a preference. He said he’s read anywhere from 3/4” to 2”.
Thank you! Mines been installed now for a about a month. It is about 1" past the countertop... looks awesome. Love my farm sink.@@signsoflove6605
When you slid that sink in, what will hold the sink in place (from sliding out over time)?
The weight of the countertop and the silicone caulk along the joint between the sink and the underside of the countertop.
So if this is a 30" sink it would be going into a 33" cabinet ? Great idea flipping the cabinet...
Thanks. 33” sink in a 36 inch cabinet.
Nice job
What brand farm sink did you use?
Link to the sink used in this video.
amzn.to/3Egfb0c
BOCCHI 1139-001-0120 Classico Apron Front Fireclay 33 in. Double Bowl Kitchen Sink
33 x 18 x 10 inches
Does top of farmhouse sink sit level with top of cabinets? Does countertop run over lip of sink? Do you know what I mean? Thanks
Yes the sink is level with the top of the cabinet and the countertop goes over the top lip of the sink.
what type and size screws did you use to secure the cabinets and the 2x4/s to the cabinets?
You want to use pan head cabinet screws of the correct length. Length is determined by how thick the boards are. You don’t want to go through.
How do you fill the gap around the sink apron?
My sink fit tight on the sides so I did nothing. On the bottom of the apron I used quarter round.
What make and model sink did you go with? I recently purchased a 33” but tapers at the bottom front
Link to the sink used in this video.
amzn.to/3Egfb0c
Great video. Very informational and well done. You really helped me out a lot.
Thanks and you’re welcome.
Awesome. Thanks for the video, helped me plan out my build for my cabinet. Couple questions.. What is the reveal left on the sides of it? And did you do anything to secure the actual sink to the cabinet? Any adhesives or anything? Thanks!
Reveal is 1.75 inches. The weight of the countertop, silicone caulk between the sink and the countertop, and the drain assembly will hold the sink in place.
They often build shoulders, L R and back sides, in the cabinet to support the weight for heavy sinks
Hey, that island. Did you put it together/build it yourself? If so, is there a video for that? I looked on your channel, but could not find it.
ruclips.net/video/X1ClvtE1gwI/видео.html
It’s towards the end of the video above. We purchased the cabinets and the back panel and installed them.
Thank you for this video - very helpful! Should the sink supports you put in under the sink line up even with the front of the cabinet or should they be slightly higher?
They should line up with where the cabinet was cut out at the bottom.
Do I need to glue the sink in place?
Not until you install the counter top. When the counter is in you caulk along the edge. This holds it in place.
Any chance you know the color of those cabinets? Excellent video always good to see someone else’s take on an installation.
Thanks. Colors are Irish cream and islander. Colors are from medallion cabinets
You wouldn't bring the sink a 3/4 inch above the cabinets, so once the plywood is installed, the sink will be flush to touch the granite?
The way I installed, the top of the sink is flush with the bottom of the countertop.
will a 30 inch farm sink fit a 30 inch base cabinet?
No. For instance in this video I installed a 33” sink in a 36” cabinet.
do you use anything to hold the sink in place so it will never slide out or move?
I read further found the answer, video very helpful thank you!
How to Hacks:
3 months ago
Once they set the counter on they caulk along the top edge. That caulk and the drain assembly hold it in place.
Brilliant
Thanks
Is this a 33 inch or 36 inch sink?
33 inch sink
why is the sink flush with the cabinets? shouldn't it be flush with the ply for granite counters?
The top of the cabinet faces are the same height as the plywood.
I want to install an old sink that is extremely heavy, I believe in excess of 100kg. Can anyone offer advice about building a structure able to support this? Would the principles shown in this video be ok for me? I’m working with wood, and want to avoid installing a steel frame. Any feedback greatly appreciated.
You can use heavier lumber both dimensionally bigger and a stronger species like oak.
@@HowtoHacks I was just thinking the same thing whilst pondering the project this morning. I appreciate your confirmation of the viability of this approach because it will be my first attempt at a project like this and I don’t have the experience to fall back on. I was beginning to feel a bit intimidated by the sheer weight of this thing but you’ve allayed my fears. Thank you.
What cabinet is that?
36 inch sink base cabinet that has a roughed in opening for a farm sink.
How do you secure the sink to the cabinets?
Once they set the counter on they caulk along the top edge. That caulk and the drain assembly hold it in place.
@@HowtoHacks thank you so much for replying! And I loved your video by the way!
@@dowhatmakesyouhappy7002 thanks and you’re welcome.
How much out at the front is the farm sink. Is there any standard measurement ?
Thanks for the video
There is no standard measurement that I’m aware of. I did 1” past the countertop overhang. You can also set it even with the countertop if you want. I think most farm sinks are overhanging the cabinet 3/4 to 2”.
Nice job. Well supported. What holds the sink from moving forward or up ?
The counter prevents the sink from moving up. Also, after the counter is put in the sink is caulked with silicon along the counter edge. Silicon holds a lot after is sets up. The drain assembly will also hold some.
@@HowtoHacks thanks
@@HowtoHacks finally the answer I've been searching for!!! Thank you!
Looks good. How fine of a blade did you use for the circular saw? And would you recommend the circular saw again over use a jigsaw the whole way.
Circular saw with a make shift guide to make a track saw makes a perfectly straight cut while a jigsaw can be a little shifty. However, you could make a track for the jigsaw as well, it would just be slower cutting . For the blade, I had a brand new one laying around so I just used that. Don’t remember how fine it is but the more teeth the smoother the cut. I would get a blade rated for trim work to get the best cut.
What were the dimensions of the cabinet and sink?? I have a 36 inch sink cabinet, but I wasn't sure if I should order a 36" sink or a 34".
36 inch cabinet and a 33 inch sink. There is a link in the video description to the sink I used.
You should order the 33 inch
How can I install 30" farmhouse sink on 36X18 cabinets?
You just have to modify the cabinet to make it fit. Without seeing exactly what you have and are trying to do it’s hard to say exactly what you should do.
Thank You. I will try to put it together and can send you picture. Not sure if i can
What is the specific model and size of the farmhouse sink?
BOCCHI 1139-001-0120 Classico Apron Front Fireclay 33 in. Double Bowl Kitchen Sink 33 x 18 x 10 inches
amzn.to/3Egfb0c
Thank you. One more question. Is the basin cabinet at 33 in wide or did you do the standard 36 in cabinet?
@@justinlitton626 standard 36 inch cabinet
Interesting. With the way the sinks end touch the sides of the cabinet I thought you did a 33 in cabinet.
How far out did you extend the apron past the bottom cabinets?
@@justinlitton626 the sink overhangs the front 1.5 inches.
what is the best height for a sink like this?
I like the 10 inch deep bowls. I believe this one is 11 inches deep from the top lip to the bottom outside. However, it could also depend on what will fit where you are going to install it. If it’s an existing cabinet you could potentially be limited to what you can install.
One problem with your instalation. The weight from the pull out hose for your faucet will hit the 2x4 behind the sink and clunk every time your pull it out and get hung up when you want to retract it.
This is true. I ended up changing it and putting 2 small blocks on each side as stops instead. I go over this at the end of the video at 9:30.
You didn’t watch until the end!
I do not undersyand why you used the framing square to trace. Then backed out the size of it......
Because I traced on the opposite side from the sink initially. This left a gap between the line and the edge of the sink that was the thickness of the framing square. The framing square I used was about 1/16th on an inch thick which is enough to notice.
@@HowtoHacks thx makes sense. I am going to trace the under edge and just cut it off 😉
Did you adjust height of sink for sub top?
Yes we adjusted the height of the sink so it fit under the counter by using a level that spanned across the cabinet. Then adjusted as needed.
I’m struggling to find a cabinet base that would allow me to make the cuts as you have for the farmhouse sink. My sink is 30x18 and 10 inches height. Most home outlet places locally with unfinished cabinets have told me just cut into the area where the front cabinet doors are. I want to avoid that if possible. Do you have any recommendations ?
Go to a custom cabinet shop and let them know what you need.
Have you tried to contact a custom cabinet shop?
We ordered a farmhouse sink base from RTA
Is it really a two man job? Looks like a lot of standing around. Just a thought.
Probably not but it does help to have an extra set of hands to hold the cabinet so it doesn’t move while the other is sanding or cutting and to lift the sink for test fits. Also, cabinets are expensive with a long lead time. Especially custom cabinets. One slip up and the results could bad. So having an extra set of hands and eyes to double check stuff for that short period is worth it.
I want to convert my regular sink set up to a farmhouse sink instead, should be “fun”
You forgot to add 3/4 inch ply
Éric Ranger
Éric Ranger
0 seconds ago
Shouldn’t you put at least a little bit of caulking underneath the sink to make it “stick” to the cabinet? Just to “lay” the sink over the cabinet seems… a little “cowboy” to me! Yes or no?
The sink gets caulked in when the countertop is installed.
No one can see what you are doing! You forgot to angle the camera😵💫😣
Words matter!!! You are not INSTALLING a farm sink into a kitchen cabinet which is the video Im looking for. You are BUILDING a kitchen cabinet for a farm sink. Big difference, as Im looking to modify the existing cabinet, not build a new cabinet which I can do, but just dont want to in this case.
lol same. Did you find a good video of one?
@@TheBestAsianGamer No, I gave up looking and just modified what I had based on pictures of farm sink cabinets. I took a typical 60" W sink base cabinet I bought at Home Depot (I didnt have the time to build one as I was getting some surgery) and just built a platform in it for the sink to sit on. I obviously had to remove that board in the front, up top, just above the doors and cut the doors down to size so they fit under the platform\sink. Theres still a lot of cabinet space underneath as I installed the platform about 7" down from the top of the cabinet.
@@independenttntn3276 pretty much all cabinets have to be modified the same way like he did in this video. I found out the hard way.
Looks like he installed it just like it said and usually if a video isn’t what I’m looking for I search for another one instead of complaining
1:17 spits on cabinet to increase accuracy of cut
Great info. I’ll be doing mime in a few weeks
Thanks
lets see the bottom corners. lmao
They look great actually…