Wish you would have explained more about the air admittance valves. What you can and cannot use them on, how far up they need to be…etc. I love your videos, this is the only thing I have more questions on.
Hey man I’ve been watching your videos for a year or so now and just wanted to say thank you! You seam like a genuinely kind person and something we could always use more of.
Thanks for being a long-term subscriber Jonathan! I love making content for RUclips to help people. It has become a passion of mine. I find myself getting excited to work on the house because I get to record it and share it with others. I hope your projects are going well. Stay tuned for more!
Thanks for letting me know Sandy! I try to make my videos very clear and easy to understand. Hope you found them helpful. Be sure to subscribe for more videos!
That is good to hear Luke. Congrats on the house! Buying and fixing up the house can be a lot of work but the payoff can be tremendous. Thanks for watching!
Thank you Steve! Like I said in the video, they can be a daunting task but after you do a couple they are not a big deal. Yes custom fitting can be risky. Congrats again on your pending sale!
Oh wow that was good timing. After you do it you will realize it really isn’t that hard. Thanks a lot Bob for watching my channel! Good luck with your sink!
Great video! Learning a ton watching your videos. I'm about to install some plumbing for a farmhouse sink. Do you mind sharing what dimensions you plumbed the drain and vent stub out to? i.e. height from finished floor to center of pipe.
Yes it will. I made sure it was in the right position. Teflon just gives the joint extra security to prevent sewer gases from leaking into the house. I hope that helps!
I always liked undermount sinks except when I could tell a client was really harsh on using it, not protecting it from knives scratching it or just not being careful. I've had to buff and sand scratches out very delicately on some stainless steel sinks making sure to work the same direction of the grain look. Of course, a cheaper sink, it doesn't work well. Porcelain was not a good one for that since they are not forgiving for chips even though it could get repaired, if a professional does it. The 16 gauge sink is a great quality instead of the 20-22 gauge and always having to add sound buffing material to dampen the sound. 16 is always the best way to go. Any single drain sink is required to have the cheater vent (air admittance valve) always check with codes since I have had a few not allow it. This never made sense to me because the drain flow is so much slower without it. The rough in plumbing always made it easier how it was done in your video but in a remodel situation, you could create the same thing exposed in the cabinet. Also making sure the air admittance valve is higher than the bottom of the sink. The one thing you mentioned about how long they last, I had a remodel job that had a water leak in the wall. It was an odd place because the supply lines came up from the base of the cabinet, this was somewhere in the wall. Surprisingly, someone put the valve in the wall before doing the drywall and the valve quit working and created water issues. Cutting out the back of the cabinet to find this was fun and then put a new back in the cabinet after fixing the issue. Always make them accessible to work on. Great job with everything and using a wood frame for the best support and a great quality sink with all the accessories. 🔨🔨 🔨 The like button for sure 👍🏻
I agree with you about the porcelain. My wife was considering that for a long time but we came to the agreement that stainless steel is much more forgiving like you said. 16 gauge is definitely ideal. typically 20 gauge is fine for rentals or contractor grade houses. Yes that is true about the air admittance valve as far as checking with codes. I know they are commonly used in island sinks. I placed this valve here because I did not want to drill through the jack studs holding the window header. For maximum strength I figured it’s better to use this valve. I actually did not know you could sand Stainless sinks. That’s good to know. Thanks a lot for watching again David. See you in the next one!
@@TheExcellentLaborer taking scratches out with a proper compound and critical grit paper or automotive bodywork sandpaper and delicate touch. Always have to watch not to go to hard not to damage the stainless. If course I never would use anything electric. Direction it critical to not take away from the look. Of course, the proper sink grates are wonderful with rubber bumpers on the bottom to protect the sink. Delta and even Moen are wonderful companies to deal with locally unless you want something even more elegant. They are out there for a price. Have a great day and week to come Josh
I am not sure the deck screws described at 3:46 for the frame are sufficient for the load. Also not sure what type of screws you used to attach the frame to the cabinet at 5:18. Both appear to be subject to shear. A 30” wide farm style sink full of water could have a load approaching 400 lbs depending on the dimensions. Assuming the load is distributed evenly across 2 x 4 screws, approximately 50 lbs shear at each screw along the sides. One could transfer the load to the cabinet base by suitable supports between the bottom of the frame and the cabinet base. The instructions for the sink I am installing includes a caution to make sure the cabinet can support the sink with dishes and filled with water. FYI.
Great videos... just joined and wonder about the sink... undermount?? won't you need to silicone the top again to keep it waterproof? Also, if the width of my sink doesn't exactly line up with the 2 x 4s on each side would I just build it thicker or just add blocking? again, thanks for making these ... very helpful..
Question I’m replacing my sink with a deep sink and there is an existing air vent but it’s too tall for the sink. Can that pipe be moved or shortened-cannot move forward because I do not want to create a disaster-help!
I'd rather use 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood sandwiched strips instead of 2x4. That 2x4 just seems out of place. I know it's not visible, still.. The devil is in the details, and that extra what makes a difference between ordinary and extraordinary.
I agree with you. Such beautiful cabinets and sink, just to ugly it up with 2x4’s, and ugly wood at that. Not a great finished look, even though it’s on he inside.
If the air admittance valve is only good for about 10 years didn't you just install it directly behind the bowl of that sink? That will be fun to twist out later.
Wish you would have explained more about the air admittance valves. What you can and cannot use them on, how far up they need to be…etc. I love your videos, this is the only thing I have more questions on.
Hey man I’ve been watching your videos for a year or so now and just wanted to say thank you! You seam like a genuinely kind person and something we could always use more of.
Thanks for being a long-term subscriber Jonathan! I love making content for RUclips to help people. It has become a passion of mine. I find myself getting excited to work on the house because I get to record it and share it with others. I hope your projects are going well. Stay tuned for more!
Just so you know… you are one of the clearest, descriptive plumbers on RUclips! Well done!
Thanks for letting me know Sandy! I try to make my videos very clear and easy to understand. Hope you found them helpful. Be sure to subscribe for more videos!
I’m currently building a house, I’ve paid for it to be dried in. Fixing to tackle the inside myself. I’ve learn a ton watching your videos. Thank you
That is so cool you’re learning from my videos! Building your own house is very rewarding. Way to go Adrian! Stay tuned for more!
Bought a house and have watched and saved a number of your videos. Thanks for all the info!
That is good to hear Luke. Congrats on the house! Buying and fixing up the house can be a lot of work but the payoff can be tremendous. Thanks for watching!
Nice work josh 👍 farm sinks are always confusing to me, 😆 glad I’m not the only one that has to custom cut things to fit. This will look awesome 🤩
Thank you Steve! Like I said in the video, they can be a daunting task but after you do a couple they are not a big deal. Yes custom fitting can be risky. Congrats again on your pending sale!
Thanks for the video. I actually have the same sink to install based on countertop installation today, so this was right on time.
Very informative thank you!
Thank you. You are welcome!
Getting ready to install a similar sink so this was perfect timing. Thank you! Nicely done.
Oh wow that was good timing. After you do it you will realize it really isn’t that hard. Thanks a lot Bob for watching my channel! Good luck with your sink!
So clear and detailed explanation! 👌
Great video, I'm about to tackle this myself!!!
Will you be showing the remaining installation? Please do. Long time subscriber here and you’ve helped me tons. Thanks.
I will be. Thanks for being a long time subscriber!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Awesome!!!
Great video! Learning a ton watching your videos.
I'm about to install some plumbing for a farmhouse sink. Do you mind sharing what dimensions you plumbed the drain and vent stub out to? i.e. height from finished floor to center of pipe.
Thank you!
You are very welcome!
Monday, October 24. 2022. 210k subs. Can't wait to see where you will be a year from now. BRAVO
Thanks Eric! I see thankful for the channel growth. Helping people with video is definitely something I love to do. Glad to see you stopping by!
@@TheExcellentLaborer yeah man ... ya doin a stellar job. glad to remind you
I wonder if that faucet will clear the aav 🤔 never seen someone use Teflon installing one. You are very interesting sir
Yes it will. I made sure it was in the right position. Teflon just gives the joint extra security to prevent sewer gases from leaking into the house. I hope that helps!
i enjoy your videos keep up the good work .
Thank you Robert!
Where did you find that jigsaw? Awesome video
Excellent,, thanks
Thank you very much!
How were you able to avoid hitting the AAV with such a deep sink?
Do they make over the countertop farmhouse sinks?
Yes they do! I hope that helps you out.
I always liked undermount sinks except when I could tell a client was really harsh on using it, not protecting it from knives scratching it or just not being careful. I've had to buff and sand scratches out very delicately on some stainless steel sinks making sure to work the same direction of the grain look. Of course, a cheaper sink, it doesn't work well. Porcelain was not a good one for that since they are not forgiving for chips even though it could get repaired, if a professional does it. The 16 gauge sink is a great quality instead of the 20-22 gauge and always having to add sound buffing material to dampen the sound. 16 is always the best way to go.
Any single drain sink is required to have the cheater vent (air admittance valve) always check with codes since I have had a few not allow it. This never made sense to me because the drain flow is so much slower without it. The rough in plumbing always made it easier how it was done in your video but in a remodel situation, you could create the same thing exposed in the cabinet. Also making sure the air admittance valve is higher than the bottom of the sink. The one thing you mentioned about how long they last, I had a remodel job that had a water leak in the wall. It was an odd place because the supply lines came up from the base of the cabinet, this was somewhere in the wall. Surprisingly, someone put the valve in the wall before doing the drywall and the valve quit working and created water issues. Cutting out the back of the cabinet to find this was fun and then put a new back in the cabinet after fixing the issue. Always make them accessible to work on.
Great job with everything and using a wood frame for the best support and a great quality sink with all the accessories. 🔨🔨 🔨 The like button for sure 👍🏻
I agree with you about the porcelain. My wife was considering that for a long time but we came to the agreement that stainless steel is much more forgiving like you said. 16 gauge is definitely ideal. typically 20 gauge is fine for rentals or contractor grade houses. Yes that is true about the air admittance valve as far as checking with codes. I know they are commonly used in island sinks. I placed this valve here because I did not want to drill through the jack studs holding the window header. For maximum strength I figured it’s better to use this valve. I actually did not know you could sand Stainless sinks. That’s good to know. Thanks a lot for watching again David. See you in the next one!
@@TheExcellentLaborer taking scratches out with a proper compound and critical grit paper or automotive bodywork sandpaper and delicate touch. Always have to watch not to go to hard not to damage the stainless. If course I never would use anything electric. Direction it critical to not take away from the look. Of course, the proper sink grates are wonderful with rubber bumpers on the bottom to protect the sink. Delta and even Moen are wonderful companies to deal with locally unless you want something even more elegant. They are out there for a price. Have a great day and week to come Josh
I am not sure the deck screws described at 3:46 for the frame are sufficient for the load. Also not sure what type of screws you used to attach the frame to the cabinet at 5:18. Both appear to be subject to shear. A 30” wide farm style sink full of water could have a load approaching 400 lbs depending on the dimensions. Assuming the load is distributed evenly across 2 x 4 screws, approximately 50 lbs shear at each screw along the sides. One could transfer the load to the cabinet base by suitable supports between the bottom of the frame and the cabinet base. The instructions for the sink I am installing includes a caution to make sure the cabinet can support the sink with dishes and filled with water. FYI.
Great videos... just joined and wonder about the sink... undermount?? won't you need to silicone the top again to keep it waterproof? Also, if the width of my sink doesn't exactly line up with the 2 x 4s on each side would I just build it thicker or just add blocking? again, thanks for making these ... very helpful..
How about a porcelain farmer sink to be flush mount with the countertop
Question I’m replacing my sink with a deep sink and there is an existing air vent but it’s too tall for the sink. Can that pipe be moved or shortened-cannot move forward because I do not want to create a disaster-help!
I have the same question but I see 3 mos later he hasn’t answered 😭 did you get that issue resolved, if so what did you do?
There is say the cabinet needs to be 3 inches on each side of the sink. I do not understand why if enough support is installed.
did he really use 2-1/2" screws and drive them through the end panel into the dishwasher opening?
They sale farmhouse sinks that are 35 1/4” and can use a 36” sink base. Yw
Dude were you homeschooled? Your videos are amazing. Thē best.
thats a big tool belt to hold up a box cutter and a tape... 🤠
👍💞
Thank you for the support!
I'd rather use 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood sandwiched strips instead of 2x4. That 2x4 just seems out of place. I know it's not visible, still.. The devil is in the details, and that extra what makes a difference between ordinary and extraordinary.
I agree with you. Such beautiful cabinets and sink, just to ugly it up with 2x4’s, and ugly wood at that. Not a great finished look, even though it’s on he inside.
First.
Welcome back Joe!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Thanks great, succinct video.
If the air admittance valve is only good for about 10 years didn't you just install it directly behind the bowl of that sink? That will be fun to twist out later.
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