Hey, man. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I have a Nissan caravan E25 which is also using torsion bars with the same adjustment mechanism (on the upper control arms). Will go lift up the driver side (150,000 miles without adjustment) before my tyres worn out too much since it's dipped and looks funny when parked level. Ps: you just gained a new subscriber.
I'm having a hay day working on my Used new to me Xterra. I am impressed with it's build quality. Thanks for the information. Also... We used gloves just like those in the Army (nomex)
Very cool video. I really like the tool box setup. Currently lifting my 2001 frontier and needed some insight on the torsion bars. Thank you for making this video. 🙌
Nice video. The one thing that might have made things easier is that whenever I get used hardware to use on my vehicles I clean the threads on the bolts using a die and clean the threads using a tap. I do that whenever I take something apart too. It restores the threads to near original condition to compensate for stretch where the nut was stressing that area of the threads, clears away corrosion, and ( when appropriate) allows for proper torque when using a torque wrench.
If you offroad ideally those anchors are flush with the cross member or even up inside as they will be a risk of getting caught and hung up on and damaged
If you look at time mark 3:10, I show you the indexing of your torsion bar. If you have to re-index those, you move 1 spline lower or higher depending how tight you want the suspension and how far down you want the torsion adjusters protruding from the frame rails.
From the shots you gave that looks a LOT like a 1st gen nissan pathfinder/terrano's frame. Do you happen to know how similar they are with 1 gen xterra? Or at least the bulky things like torsion bars, control arms and that kind of stuff.
The way I cross-reference things is through the AutoZone app. I just type in different models to see if the part numbers match up. Yes, most items are the same with the 97 Pathfinder and up for engine and other things.
You can remove that side as well, but either way you will need to accomplish all of the steps shown in the video in order to release the shaft from the rear splines. if you are removing a bent or damaged shaft and want to reuse the rear adjuster and front mounts, i would use a punch to drive the splined shaft out of the adjuster through the access windows of the adjuster. Of course, the front mount must be free in order to drive the shaft out of the adjuster.
Good question! Hey I made another video after this one called “OCD toolbox how-to” which shows how I did the foam. Hope yours turns out well, hardest part is finding the foam though.
The toolbox didn’t come like this, I had to fabricate the foam myself. My buddy had some kids play mats he was getting rid of and it was the perfect material to use for this. I linked a video how to do this below. It takes time and planning, but it is the best way! OCD Toolbox How to! Build the Perfect Toolbox. ruclips.net/video/cVkd0ErYWKg/видео.html
I would increase or decrease tension rather than re-indexing. If you are bottomed-out or topped-out on your adjustments is when I would attempt a re-index.
@@ijfim yea im lifting it and its max to were upper control arm is touching the bump stop and wonder would re-index make it give more clearance to the bump stop
@hmongboy9161 worth a try, this video shows how to release and engage the torque arm, but it is up to you where you want to align the splines for your application. I suggest only raising by 1 spline. It will make a big difference.
Should be same process, they will likely use the factory mounts unless it is a bit extreme. Be careful with body lift, the tubing on the passenger side wheel well gets stressed easily. I had to take my tubing out of the factory plastic carriers.
They are similar to OEM and seem to be holding up to above normal wear and tear. I drive this truck 60 miles a day with 33” wheels. No leaks, and are still tight. I’ve put around 20,000 miles on them already.
Tried it without lubing the adjuster bolts first and it shaved the threads. I recommend the manual method so you can feel if it’s binding to add lube or not.
@@ijfim iv done them heaps of times with a rattle gun and not once sheared one off. If the threads shear off using that then it needed replacing anyway. But yes I guess if your bolts are not great and you don't have access to new ones then manual might help feel it before it's too late 👍🏻
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Even if you haven’t told us about your previous work (AF) , the gloves would have given you up. 😂😂! Cool videos. Keep them coming. Thanks.
Gotta use your PPE! Thanks for watching.
Hey, man. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I have a Nissan caravan E25 which is also using torsion bars with the same adjustment mechanism (on the upper control arms). Will go lift up the driver side (150,000 miles without adjustment) before my tyres worn out too much since it's dipped and looks funny when parked level.
Ps: you just gained a new subscriber.
Thanks buddy, will have more Nissan content soon!
I'm having a hay day working on my Used new to me Xterra. I am impressed with it's build quality. Thanks for the information. Also... We used gloves just like those in the Army (nomex)
I retired Air Force last year, that’s where I got mine. Enjoy the channel
Very cool video. I really like the tool box setup. Currently lifting my 2001 frontier and needed some insight on the torsion bars. Thank you for making this video. 🙌
Just getting ready to do this myself. Excellent tutorial.
Nice video. The one thing that might have made things easier is that whenever I get used hardware to use on my vehicles I clean the threads on the bolts using a die and clean the threads using a tap. I do that whenever I take something apart too. It restores the threads to near original condition to compensate for stretch where the nut was stressing that area of the threads, clears away corrosion, and ( when appropriate) allows for proper torque when using a torque wrench.
That’s definitely good advice. I need to invest in a good tap/die set for sure.
@@ijfim Or at least put a wire brush to your threads. Not as effective as a tap and die, but better than just oil over dirt.
Very nice you're a well organized individual thanks for showing us.
Very organized tool box very helpful
Thank you, I have another shorter video showing how to make one!
Love the tools and each drawer assymbly
Thanks, wanted to share a good way for tool organization.
@@ijfim 💖💖💖💖💖💖
Share Amazon links to your toolbox! Love that set up. Want know where to find the pelican, drawers and where you sourced the foam.
Awesome video man and toolbox setup! 👌
Thanks, worked hard on the toolbox. I have another video in my channel detailing how to do it for another toolbox I built.
If you offroad ideally those anchors are flush with the cross member or even up inside as they will be a risk of getting caught and hung up on and damaged
thanks for the good info. I used to live in Cheyenne. Small world lol
Was a great little city, I moved on as well.
thanks for the video. how do you reindex the torsion bar?
If you look at time mark 3:10, I show you the indexing of your torsion bar. If you have to re-index those, you move 1 spline lower or higher depending how tight you want the suspension and how far down you want the torsion adjusters protruding from the frame rails.
@@ijfim thank you! i’m maxed out on my torsion bars, will need to reindex so this vid will help me out.
I have a video on my channel you can search for if you need a visual. Nice video!
From the shots you gave that looks a LOT like a 1st gen nissan pathfinder/terrano's frame. Do you happen to know how similar they are with 1 gen xterra? Or at least the bulky things like torsion bars, control arms and that kind of stuff.
The way I cross-reference things is through the AutoZone app. I just type in different models to see if the part numbers match up. Yes, most items are the same with the 97 Pathfinder and up for engine and other things.
Thanks!
What about the splines on the rear of the bar to the adjuster
You can remove that side as well, but either way you will need to accomplish all of the steps shown in the video in order to release the shaft from the rear splines. if you are removing a bent or damaged shaft and want to reuse the rear adjuster and front mounts, i would use a punch to drive the splined shaft out of the adjuster through the access windows of the adjuster. Of course, the front mount must be free in order to drive the shaft out of the adjuster.
How do you make the tool impression in the foam?
Good question! Hey I made another video after this one called “OCD toolbox how-to” which shows how I did the foam. Hope yours turns out well, hardest part is finding the foam though.
But you didn’t say how to adjust it if needed?
Thank my friend! helped me a lot
NP, trying to help y’all out!
hello sir! if you adjust your tosion. in theory it will extend the shocks right?
It should extend them if you increase tension.
Where did you get the draws for your toolbox? And did the pelican come like that. Please help i want to make rhis toolbox. Thanks
The toolbox didn’t come like this, I had to fabricate the foam myself. My buddy had some kids play mats he was getting rid of and it was the perfect material to use for this. I linked a video how to do this below. It takes time and planning, but it is the best way!
OCD Toolbox How to! Build the Perfect Toolbox.
ruclips.net/video/cVkd0ErYWKg/видео.html
If your control arm is touching the bump stop then you need to re due the index?
I would increase or decrease tension rather than re-indexing. If you are bottomed-out or topped-out on your adjustments is when I would attempt a re-index.
@@ijfim yea im lifting it and its max to were upper control arm is touching the bump stop and wonder would re-index make it give more clearance to the bump stop
@hmongboy9161 worth a try, this video shows how to release and engage the torque arm, but it is up to you where you want to align the splines for your application. I suggest only raising by 1 spline. It will make a big difference.
I just installed a 3 inch lift kit from 4x4parts and I'm about to install new torsion bars.
Same process??
Should be same process, they will likely use the factory mounts unless it is a bit extreme. Be careful with body lift, the tubing on the passenger side wheel well gets stressed easily. I had to take my tubing out of the factory plastic carriers.
Btw, how do you like the gas a strut shocks on your Xterra ? Any better than OEM ?
They are similar to OEM and seem to be holding up to above normal wear and tear. I drive this truck 60 miles a day with 33” wheels. No leaks, and are still tight. I’ve put around 20,000 miles on them already.
We’re did you get the front bumper
I bought the truck in Wyoming, and the bumper was already attached
What size rims and tires are you using
I think they are 15 x 10 with 33 x 12.50 tires.
Thanks for the video l need to lower my truck
It’s simple, lube the threads, loosen locknuts, count your turns to maintain symmetry on both sides, then tighten lock nuts.
awesome thank you!
bro how about the alignment?
Yep
Hi,what's your back spacing on your 15 inch rims?
Unknown, sorry.
Thanks dude. Mine just broke.
Corrosion broke it?
Nnaugh. I think they are just worn out. She's 23 years old and I off road a lot.
Two words - Impact Gun 😉
Tried it without lubing the adjuster bolts first and it shaved the threads. I recommend the manual method so you can feel if it’s binding to add lube or not.
@@ijfim iv done them heaps of times with a rattle gun and not once sheared one off. If the threads shear off using that then it needed replacing anyway. But yes I guess if your bolts are not great and you don't have access to new ones then manual might help feel it before it's too late 👍🏻
Did it wrong. The T bars need to be indexed so the adjusters are fully up in the frame when done.
That would be over tightening them. Unless you have set them oddly in the holders on the lower control arms
You don’t seem to have much confidence in those HF jacks. 😆
Nah, but I still try to be safe!
Wow nothing to see here