The Snap-On tool is just a much better designed tool. It's almost identical to my old Craftsman professional flare nut wrench, which work very well. Can't remember what I paid for them, but I'm sure they were way less than the Snap -On set. You could have used a small pipe wrench or vise grips too. Most likely that would have damaged the fitting some. Glad you were finally able to get that fitting off.
@@19dd57chvI have a question for you that you may know. I did use vice grips and it did work, maybe just luck but my question is I am getting air into my rf caliper. and it is drippy brake fluid. Thought it was a bad caliper and replaced it. New caliper and same thing. Started to notice rubber brake line had fluid on it and replaced it. Still seeping somewhere. Felt fluid around the joint Steel tube to rubber. Took it apart again and what I am suspecting is the flair somehow is to worn down and doesn't seal anymore. I believe that is how air is getting in the line. Think it is possible the nut can slide high enough to get a flair tool on it, preferably without removing the steel tube but even with the tube removed? Awe, before you ask, yes new copper washer also.
@@ckstaff If the flare on the hard brake line is worn or damaged, and if there is enough room, you might be able to cut the line and re-flare it ( double flare only). But, I don't believe that there will be enough room to do that. Since you've replaced everything else, I would suggest replacing the right front brake line from the proportioning valve to the wheel and be done with it.
I’m laughing already and only at the two minute mark. I also bought the cheap HF line wrench set and my hard line is so tight that I broke the wrench trying to get it off. I’m hoping that you had success with the Snap On one 😜
@@thedrivewayC3 is there a part number on the other side of the Craig's list wrench? I think I'm going to do the same thing but didn't realize there were so many versions out there. Tried watching the video again to see if you ever flipped it over where I could see it but no such luck though I suppose any of them would do
Odd enough, I got down to the last try and took a gamble with vice grips and it worked. Not saying I recommend that as the way to do it, think I just got lucky maybe. Replaced caliper and rubber brake line and copper washer but somewhere it is getting air in the line, not allowing a good bleed. Obviously bad braking and pulling. After hours of trying to figure out the trouble I felt brake fluid slowly seeping from that spot, hard line to rubber. I am suspecting that is where air is getting into the line. As I took it apart again I noticed the flare on the steel tube seemed awful small so worn maybe and no longer seals air tight. I am thinking of trying to reflare it without removing the entire steel tube. Has anyone tried this and will the nut slide high enough or over the bend to get the flare tool to fit on there enough? Thought I would ask around before I waist my time or not.
The Snap-On tool is just a much better designed tool. It's almost identical to my old Craftsman professional flare nut wrench, which work very well. Can't remember what I paid for them, but I'm sure they were way less than the Snap -On set. You could have used a small pipe wrench or vise grips too. Most likely that would have damaged the fitting some. Glad you were finally able to get that fitting off.
Yes, I have some older craftsman tools and they’re excellent. I tried vice grips on the DS and it’s just way too stuck - ended up rounding the nut.
@@thedrivewayC3 I know what you mean. Because the lines on my C3 were so bad I wound up cutting the lines off and replacing them LF & RF.
@@19dd57chv 52 years later. Not surprising.
@@19dd57chvI have a question for you that you may know. I did use vice grips and it did work, maybe just luck but my question is I am getting air into my rf caliper. and it is drippy brake fluid. Thought it was a bad caliper and replaced it. New caliper and same thing. Started to notice rubber brake line had fluid on it and replaced it. Still seeping somewhere. Felt fluid around the joint Steel tube to rubber. Took it apart again and what I am suspecting is the flair somehow is to worn down and doesn't seal anymore. I believe that is how air is getting in the line. Think it is possible the nut can slide high enough to get a flair tool on it, preferably without removing the steel tube but even with the tube removed? Awe, before you ask, yes new copper washer also.
@@ckstaff If the flare on the hard brake line is worn or damaged, and if there is enough room, you might be able to cut the line and re-flare it ( double flare only). But, I don't believe that there will be enough room to do that. Since you've replaced everything else, I would suggest replacing the right front brake line from the proportioning valve to the wheel and be done with it.
There's a copper washer that is needed when screwing into the caliper?
I’m laughing already and only at the two minute mark. I also bought the cheap HF line wrench set and my hard line is so tight that I broke the wrench trying to get it off. I’m hoping that you had success with the Snap On one 😜
Yes, SnapOn for the win.
@@thedrivewayC3 is there a part number on the other side of the Craig's list wrench? I think I'm going to do the same thing but didn't realize there were so many versions out there. Tried watching the video again to see if you ever flipped it over where I could see it but no such luck though I suppose any of them would do
@@michaelriley3110 I’ll try to remember to check, but I don’t recall a part number - only the “snap on” name.
Old cars🙄 There cool but a pain in the ass! Glad you succeeded.
Bad-Ass and a Pain in the Ass.
It’s all good. To me, it’s about the journey. Haha
Odd enough, I got down to the last try and took a gamble with vice grips and it worked. Not saying I recommend that as the way to do it, think I just got lucky maybe. Replaced caliper and rubber brake line and copper washer but somewhere it is getting air in the line, not allowing a good bleed. Obviously bad braking and pulling. After hours of trying to figure out the trouble I felt brake fluid slowly seeping from that spot, hard line to rubber. I am suspecting that is where air is getting into the line. As I took it apart again I noticed the flare on the steel tube seemed awful small so worn maybe and no longer seals air tight. I am thinking of trying to reflare it without removing the entire steel tube. Has anyone tried this and will the nut slide high enough or over the bend to get the flare tool to fit on there enough? Thought I would ask around before I waist my time or not.
You could have cut the fitting of and bought a flairing tool and just replace the fitting for about the same price as all the wrenches you brought
That was next on the list of strategies. I’ll use the wrenches a lot more than a brake line flairing tool.