I feel like I'm back in high school and actually paying attention to class for once because of how cool the subject matter is. Loved this so much, thank you.
While hearing about the show, especially the story and pics with the kids, I couldn't help but smile like an idiot. You even talked about the moments you have with your partner, where you get a burst of affection for them when they do something goofy. Throughout this show, I had a sense of pure happiness, the the kind you get sitting at at a beach during sunset with your partner, and no one else in sight, and you notice the beauty of every little thing around you. I think margiela tried to capture that in the show - the beautiful happiness in the way of unpredictable things, or just "good vibes". I felt like putting out positive emotions was one of his main goals with this show. Lemme know what you all think! The kids warm my heart so much. Great sharing a tear with you all
Classes where you focus on a single piece or artist are the best. I had a class that spent the whole time studying Moby Dick and it was incredible. I also had one studying Paradise Lost which was also pretty good. Learning is the most fun thing possible (besides backscratches and sex) as long as you’re learning about something you love.
@@BlissFoster I totally agree, that definitely helps, the subject matter is interesting too. But bottomline is that you are a great communicator. And you are democratizing fashion in a total new sense. thank you
Bliss... you should literally become a professor. This made me so emotional... actually this whole series thus far is just emotional as hell for me! I have always wanted to become a designer but now I am actually going to go for it. Thank you so much for this series, this is so unbelievably inspirational.
How can you not love that man, knowing how he found the location and how they treated those kids!!! That was beautiful and it made me tear up too. As forward thinking that he was, his message is quite relevant today. We still have so much to learn though. I love the idea of looking at something by its character rather than by its age or even aesthetic. I love the idea of really loving the garments that you have and using them the way they were intended or of giving them new life or simply letting them disintegrate all together. I have done that with so many pieces of clothing. I have really done it with shoes. I can't wait to see what else is revealed through this series. I don't have much to add but appreciation. Thank you.
Really enjoying this series. There's the paradox of "how can a designer democratize fashion?" and I think this show answers it by including those in underserved communities, like children, and make them part of the creation. Such an authentic and beautiful show.
I just wanted to say that I LOVE these deep dive videos, Bliss. I actually came across your channel while looking at the history of the Tabi boots, and I'm so glad the algorithm got me here. I study art history and fashion has always been an interest of mine, but watching your video made me realize the parallel between Margiela and Marcel Duchamp and how they repurpose readymades to elevate and transform what we encounter on a daily basis. Thank you for the video and for the quality of the analysis!
I’ve written down comments for specific videos you have posted which I feel really made an impact on my understanding of a certain brand/ designer or fashion in general ..
you explaining the part of the kids being put at the front and the pictures made me so emotional. and then you being emotional made me even more! i love your content - thank you so much
21:08 That was a really beautiful reflection. I’ve never really thought about it. I haven’t been aware of how much I love some of my clothes, as you said they end up being part of who I am and who I’ve been showing to the others. It is a reflex on how I’ve been developing my identity so far, and is really thrilling to think that they will change at the same time as my style and identity keep on changing. The relationship we have with our clothes is just the relationship we forge with ourselves :’) . Thanks for this awesome videos and keep it up! :) .
I will preface this thought by saying that I love Margiela, However Some of the things he said make me wonder. If Margiela is trying to find fashion everywhere and make fashion for everyone not just these unobtainable visions of beauty that everyone else was doing, isn't it then defeated by the price put on it? I get that it is a justified price because of the time, thought and effort put into these amazingly constructed and thought out garments, that's not what I'm saying, I just wonder if it is meant to be for everyone why make it available for only the few?
Unfortunately it is simply not possible to make this type of clothing affordable to everyone. After labour (pattern maker, pattern cutter, seamstress, tailor, designer), materials are the costliest overhead for any designer. The general public are unaware of this as they are used to clothing made from materials produced on an industrial scale at pennies per metre. They sell to the owners of independent boutiques which have themselves high overheads and that is when the price skyrockets, For example: a pair of Margiela's men's trousers in a Paris boutique would be sold to the boutique for approximately 150 euros (2 hours of labour, 2 metres of fabric, shipping - ordered in showroom 6 months in advance and 50% paid in advance) and would then be manufactured in probably another country and shipped 6 months later to retail at about 450 euros, to cover the rent, wages and other costs of running a boutique in the centre of Paris. Theyr'e AVAILABLE to everyone; some of us would just have to work and save for a year to afford them.
Yeah accessibility in these spaces is a really interesting conversation, fashion itself is sort of contradictory. Designers like Margiela, who are born from a revolt, a product of a a sort of counter-culture, still have to subsume to the form of fashion which is through clothes. In so doing Margiela and his team can disseminate their desires, dreams and ideas for fashion; however, they are still restricted by the predetermined structure of fashion. They can push the form of presentation through changing spaces, music, rules and faces, they can push the clothes so long as they still qualify as clothes in a sense. Yet Margiela's still bound by the same issues of finance as most designers, the question of how do you maintain a house or team without bringing in money, to substain yourself and others but also the art you want to keep producing. Not to mention maintaining or progressing techniques and materials. Art will always be hindered by capital and its obvious necessity to sustain it, to help it grow.
This is one of the great, enduring questions about brands that participate in the “democratizing fashion” movement. Here, I think the simple answer is just a business one: how do you pay 4 peoples salaries, pay for a studio in Paris, pay for materials, and pay for production without charging what they did? The second answer is complicated and sparks more questions. If a company wants to make their artistic statement within the world of high fashion, what perimeters allow them to do so? Is it officially being part of Paris Fashion week? What is PFW? If I screen print some tees and wear them outside the Lanvin show, did I do a presentation at Paris Fashion Week? Do the parameters have to do with media coverage? Are you only legit if you’re covered by vogue? Perhaps it does have to do with price? My point is, this is an extremely complicated (and awesome!) questions it warrants a lot of discussion.
All of these responses really make me think! Thank you all for responding, I think it is actually really interesting how someone put it that margiela was making this statement but because it was made in the high fashion sphere it had the same limitations that all high fashion does. Thinking about that I sort of think in a sense that makes it a statement on the business itself as well as the ideas of high fashion
Sign me up to the crying at fashion shows club because those photos of the kids in front row made me bawl my eyes out. Thanks so much for this and I can't wait for the next one!
Thank you so much for these series, i really love this runway and i find it soo cool that the kids were able to participate also the fact that they made the invitations is kinda genius.
Best fashion show ever. I remember seeing it covered in Details magazine (when it was actually still cool and not corporate) and being enthralled that this is how things could be. Still have March ‘89 and ‘90 on my shelf.
I genuinely started crying when I saw those picture of those kids. Thanks for also crying it made me feel better cause I thought I was hella weird for crying cause of that 😭
Love the comment about clothes getting wrapped up into our identities. I can look back at photos of myself and with every attempted reinvention of my style, a new attitude would invariably be brought out. Or maybe a change in attitude brought about the style change? Clothes/people are weird. Anyway, I think David Bowie is a great example of this idea of clothing and identity. Look at how many times that man reinvented himself and how every reinvention had a look to accompany it
@@BlissFoster Well if you ever decide to do an in-depth runway analysis of Dries, you could easily bring up Bowie. Seems to be one of his inspirations. And might be cool to talk about fashion and music in general tbh
that last note on how clothes become a part of who you are is something i think about all the time. The fact that everyone whether they are into fashion or not can strongly identify with a piece of clothing or a uniform or a movement in fashion is just all the more reason to be interested in fashion and the ins and outs of the industry. Also love the message Margiela was sending out about appreciating the culture and people in which you borrow from. Many people can easily reference a culture or have a show in a far out location but allowing the kids to be a part of the show shows respect to the location he was using for his show. A sort of take and give situation
Great points! I also think it’s a strong argument to allow for unknown factors in runway shows. Everyone is so obsessed with making everything perfect that they miss out on stuff like this
On the subject of the paper vest, it's maybe something to think about that all fashion says something about the ideas of the time it was made. Even the counter culture of an era reflects the prevailing culture so in some ways you could think of older fashion as an advert for an intellectual product that may be completely irrelevant by the time you come to look at it. I found the resurgence of 90s style trainers recently super interesting for the reason because they're reflecting back the terrace culture and rave culture that just doesn't exist in the UK anymore at all. I'm from the North of England and the nostalgia for Casuals style is so easy to see on a night out.
This is a great interpretation of it. That vest is wonderful because it’s a piece that can facilitate so many different kinds of conversations. Great thought, thank you 💫💫
@@BlissFoster I'd be quite interested to hear your thoughts on the idea that there are going to be no more subcultures for fashion to cannibalise. Do you think we're really at the point where there will be no new emerging groups and instead they're just going to all exist at once?
I started watching your first mmm video and did not finish. Came across this and sat thru the entire thing and wondered how I did not finish the first two. Excellent! Just excellent! Subscribed half way thru. I came across Margiela around 1996. I picked up some German fashion magazine at Around The World in NYGD. I was floored and followed him and Helmut and Jil. I discovered I was a minimalist at heart, even though my design jobs were everything but minimal, modern and chic. They all spoke to me and pointed me in the direction.... Then I discovered Maurizio Altieri, Carol Christian Poell and Rick Owens around 2003 to bring me full circle. I decided to throw my hat in the ring at some point....
Bliss Foster Hi Bliss yes I do. I left the corporate side and I'm trying to figure it out for myself. Very minimal and modern, heavily influenced by Altieri and Poell. I aspire to the hand sewn work of those two at some point in the future. Now my work concentrates on being as minimal as possible. But that is changing because I have a lot of experience and I find myself thinking of embellishments again. So we'll see where it takes me.
I just found your channel (exploring my love for the art of fashion). I've watched several of your videos so far and it has led me to trying out your Margiela series. So cool so far. Just had to comment that I recently watched your vid on 'personal style on a budget' where you showed the jackets you bought. You showed a pic of the first one, but did not of this, and I was hoping to see one. Well glad I'm watching this series for more than one reason now; super hot look Bliss!
Okay, been busy all day and actually just finished the whole video now. The part of the shoe video that struck me was when you compared how the clothes you wore, how they start deteriorating over time, and how you compare that to what you may become-it's horrifying. Will you grow old and be forgotten? Much like the old clothes that you have at the back of your closet? We tend to take things for granted, like the press at this Margiela show, we may not appreciate something at that very moment until later on, but even then-do we actually appreciate it? or do we only appreciate it because everyone else is on that wave an you're trying to play catch up? That's something I enjoy from Margiela's runways, it shows to not conform to the norm if that's who you're not, because once that time leaves you won't be able to get that true, raw emotions that you would've originally received.
I love Margiela because I feel like there is such a distinct vision in his work it all seems to be very cohesive and each season is a clear progression from the previous
you’re doing such a good thing with this series, i’ve always wanted something just like this - so accessible. baffles me that this show got the feedback that it did. but mentioning the turn of the decade that this show symbolized makes me excited for the 20s, not just in fashion but in every social sense as well
this series is soooo goood!!! thank you for putting it together. i'd love to have seen the names / locations / years of the more "stuck up" collections you give examples of at the beginning!
I can literally see how passionate you are about fashion. And it's really inspiring! I took notes during the video. Not gonna lie, I had goosebumps at some point
Yes! I actually created this idea for CDG. They might not necessarily be the next brand I focus on, but they for sure are going to have a series on them.
I feel like the plastic dry-cleaning bag inspired coats could as well act as a critique to the ironic wastefulness caused by fashion, as dry-cleaning bags are essentially serving as a "garment for the garment", meant to provide protection to the clothes, which are used as a means of protection for the body in the first place.
I’ve got 2 episodes of Hood By Air! Search “Hood By Air Bliss Foster” and it’ll come up! Definitely wanting to do a Helmut Lang episode soon. New episodes start back up on Tuesday :)
Omg i loved so much this video, I’ve heard about this fashion show in a documentary about anti-fashion but didn’t find much more information about it elsewhere and this video explained so much and there is a lot of details! I love to study about fashion history and this runway show is truly iconic thank you so much for your work!!
You’re most welcome, Antonia :) The rest of the Margiela series is really good too. And the other runway episodes that cover different brands are quite strong as well 💫💫
AM Shook, for the shows going forward the mesh top holding together volumes of clothing, became such a THING for the house to do and I just got to know and it's making me superrrrr excited...haha
Would jean Paul gaultier have spoken so fondly of margiela or would he have been neglectful of it considering the differences in the clothing each were producing at the time? Genuine question here!
Great question! It’s pretty well documented that JPG spoke highly of Martin. We have him on record saying “he’s the best assistant I ever had. I couldn’t teach him anything, he didn’t need it.” (I’m paraphrasing there). We also have him on film sitting at the first MMM show. Thanks for asking, again, great question.
This is really interesting to know how Margiela was the pioneer in so many techniques and concepts. The only issue for me was that the collection was completely incoherent. In my opinion of course. So there were some conceptual pieces, some ready to sell and wear. Maybe that's why there might have been some bad opinions. And the question is: How did he manage to stay in field after so inconsistent first few collections? I'm commenting this after watching just 3 shows, but I thought that it's a important question. If you talked about that in other video, maybe you could let me know?
I can see where you’re coming from. Without the context of the rest of the collections, these can feel pretty disjointed. I think it’s just normal early work, lots of experiments, not everything ends up sticking 🤷 If you’re wondering, the shows become much more cohesive when we get to the mid 90s 💫💫
This show seems to be about love and filled with love as corny as it seems. I use to just know margela for his tabi boots (which I still want to get one day!) but this series you are doing makes me appreciate him even more. Would you say his work is post modern?
Post modern is a tricky term. I honestly don’t know enough about it to give a helpful answer. I know we have a lot of people here who know much more about that than me. Hopefully we’ll get an art critic in your replies soon :)
In Postmodernism and Popular Culture, author Angela McRobbie describes the playful nature of a movement which thrived on the embrace of nonsense and didn’t take itself too seriously, before describing its interpretation in fashion as the reconfiguration of the past into something new: “[It is]the plundering of the past in the hope of discovering [clothes] which can be reinserted into the world of the image and given meaning as simultaneously old and new.” Postmodernism also became a project determined to skew the ideas of class and taste, dissolving the assumed distinction between “high” and “low” art and flashing the middle finger to privileged institutions whose existences were built on these hierarchies. In practice this meant layering references, repurposing materials and generally taking a radical new approach to creation. The aesthetics of postmodernism in fashion were varied but some examples centred on literal deconstruction, the splicing of hacked-away garments and the transformation of random objects into “fabrics”. Maison Margiela’s longstanding “Artisanal” line is just one manifestation of this mind-set; the Belgian pioneer repurposed found objects and transformed them into exquisite clothing worthy of the fabled term “couture”, essentially elevating trash to treasure.
hey bliss, for the poster paper vest, why do you think margiela chose a vest as the medium to communicate his major theme of reusing things that are deemed as out dated and unusable? is there something symbolic, do you think, since it's a vest like it's specifically worn on your torso and chest and therefore 'close to one's heart'? What do you think?
I can't think of another show since which has so profoundly changed the paradigm of beauty; that's why everyone was crying. The press are idiots; important fashion buyers didn't buy another shoulder padded jacket again. The 80's were over in two hours. The impact was felt around the world once the cool magazines were on the racks with their reports in April 1989. Marc Jacobs, the original unoriginal designer, 'launched' grunge at Perry Ellis the following season. Great video; I agree with lorde below - getting better and better.
Great question! I’m not aware of them doing so for this show. There was nothing mentioned about that in the texts that I read. However, the curtain that stood between the runway and backstage was white and thin enough that you could clearly see the big lights behind it. So even if the microphone thing didn’t happen this season, they still seemed to draw a fairly thin line between the performance and the process that produced the performance (whether that was purposeful for not).
Bliss... you’re a diamond in the rough
13 minutes and not a word spoken about clothes is just proof of how legendary and deep his shows go.
I felt weird about that actually. This one just has such a good story behind it, it seemed like a shame to not cover it😂
I feel like I'm back in high school and actually paying attention to class for once because of how cool the subject matter is. Loved this so much, thank you.
While hearing about the show, especially the story and pics with the kids, I couldn't help but smile like an idiot. You even talked about the moments you have with your partner, where you get a burst of affection for them when they do something goofy. Throughout this show, I had a sense of pure happiness, the the kind you get sitting at at a beach during sunset with your partner, and no one else in sight, and you notice the beauty of every little thing around you. I think margiela tried to capture that in the show - the beautiful happiness in the way of unpredictable things, or just "good vibes". I felt like putting out positive emotions was one of his main goals with this show. Lemme know what you all think!
The kids warm my heart so much. Great sharing a tear with you all
Strong agree. Thanks for sharing, bro.
i feel like for the first time in my life i like a school class
Classes where you focus on a single piece or artist are the best. I had a class that spent the whole time studying Moby Dick and it was incredible. I also had one studying Paradise Lost which was also pretty good. Learning is the most fun thing possible (besides backscratches and sex) as long as you’re learning about something you love.
@@BlissFoster I totally agree, that definitely helps, the subject matter is interesting too. But bottomline is that you are a great communicator. And you are democratizing fashion in a total new sense. thank you
Just watching this video about the show made me cry
I can only imagine the emotional impact of seeing it happen in real time
Bliss... you should literally become a professor. This made me so emotional... actually this whole series thus far is just emotional as hell for me! I have always wanted to become a designer but now I am actually going to go for it. Thank you so much for this series, this is so unbelievably inspirational.
That’s so kind! Thank you 😊
I wonder where those children are today and how they feel about having been apart of something so historic and innovative?
I honestly wonder if any of them know about it. Would be interesting to hear their perspectives
This is my fav series on youtube, ever.
Thanks so much! If you’re able to, sharing these goes a long way 💫💫
@@BlissFoster Oh you have no idea, i've shared with all my friends that are into fashion. This is too good not to be shared.
@@TheFrezrArts i share with my friends who arent into fashion at all, and they love it.
I legit can't wait for you to release each new episode. This is by far my favorite video series anyone has made on youtube tbh.
Wow that makes me feel awesome. Thanks so much
Can't wait for Fall 2000/2001 😤💅
Homie delivered on a Tuesday morning
The whole "moving the kids up to the front" thing definitely got me a little misty eyed too. Love these videos
How can you not love that man, knowing how he found the location and how they treated those kids!!! That was beautiful and it made me tear up too.
As forward thinking that he was, his message is quite relevant today. We still have so much to learn though.
I love the idea of looking at something by its character rather than by its age or even aesthetic. I love the idea of really loving the garments that you have and using them the way they were intended or of giving them new life or simply letting them disintegrate all together. I have done that with so many pieces of clothing. I have really done it with shoes.
I can't wait to see what else is revealed through this series. I don't have much to add but appreciation. Thank you.
Thank YOU, Arline :) it’s been so great having you every week 😊
Really enjoying this series. There's the paradox of "how can a designer democratize fashion?" and I think this show answers it by including those in underserved communities, like children, and make them part of the creation. Such an authentic and beautiful show.
I cried at the SAME time as you ;;;;;) so beautiful
Can someone bless this series with a margiela related intro
Why doesn’t he have more subscribers?
He will, don't worry.
i subscribe and adore fashion ,martin margiela is from Belgium he studied in antwerp
I just wanted to say that I LOVE these deep dive videos, Bliss. I actually came across your channel while looking at the history of the Tabi boots, and I'm so glad the algorithm got me here. I study art history and fashion has always been an interest of mine, but watching your video made me realize the parallel between Margiela and Marcel Duchamp and how they repurpose readymades to elevate and transform what we encounter on a daily basis. Thank you for the video and for the quality of the analysis!
I’m so glad you found the series, Wendy! 😊 Feel free to dig around, the Margiela series doesn’t have to be watched in order 💫💫 Glad you’re here!
thank you for your videos, you're so enthusiastic! by every word i feel your energy. it inspires to do real things
I've cried twice during the video, it's precious show
I’ve written down comments for specific videos you have posted which I feel really made an impact on my understanding of a certain brand/ designer or fashion in general ..
you explaining the part of the kids being put at the front and the pictures made me so emotional. and then you being emotional made me even more!
i love your content - thank you so much
21:08 That was a really beautiful reflection. I’ve never really thought about it. I haven’t been aware of how much I love some of my clothes, as you said they end up being part of who I am and who I’ve been showing to the others. It is a reflex on how I’ve been developing my identity so far, and is really thrilling to think that they will change at the same time as my style and identity keep on changing. The relationship we have with our clothes is just the relationship we forge with ourselves :’) . Thanks for this awesome videos and keep it up! :) .
I started crying too lol. there is just something about this show that is so wholesome
I will preface this thought by saying that I love Margiela, However Some of the things he said make me wonder. If Margiela is trying to find fashion everywhere and make fashion for everyone not just these unobtainable visions of beauty that everyone else was doing, isn't it then defeated by the price put on it? I get that it is a justified price because of the time, thought and effort put into these amazingly constructed and thought out garments, that's not what I'm saying, I just wonder if it is meant to be for everyone why make it available for only the few?
Unfortunately it is simply not possible to make this type of clothing affordable to everyone. After labour (pattern maker, pattern cutter, seamstress, tailor, designer), materials are the costliest overhead for any designer. The general public are unaware of this as they are used to clothing made from materials produced on an industrial scale at pennies per metre. They sell to the owners of independent boutiques which have themselves high overheads and that is when the price skyrockets, For example: a pair of Margiela's men's trousers in a Paris boutique would be sold to the boutique for approximately 150 euros (2 hours of labour, 2 metres of fabric, shipping - ordered in showroom 6 months in advance and 50% paid in advance) and would then be manufactured in probably another country and shipped 6 months later to retail at about 450 euros, to cover the rent, wages and other costs of running a boutique in the centre of Paris. Theyr'e AVAILABLE to everyone; some of us would just have to work and save for a year to afford them.
Yeah accessibility in these spaces is a really interesting conversation, fashion itself is sort of contradictory. Designers like Margiela, who are born from a revolt, a product of a a sort of counter-culture, still have to subsume to the form of fashion which is through clothes. In so doing Margiela and his team can disseminate their desires, dreams and ideas for fashion; however, they are still restricted by the predetermined structure of fashion. They can push the form of presentation through changing spaces, music, rules and faces, they can push the clothes so long as they still qualify as clothes in a sense. Yet Margiela's still bound by the same issues of finance as most designers, the question of how do you maintain a house or team without bringing in money, to substain yourself and others but also the art you want to keep producing. Not to mention maintaining or progressing techniques and materials. Art will always be hindered by capital and its obvious necessity to sustain it, to help it grow.
@@noahholder7911 Very well said.
This is one of the great, enduring questions about brands that participate in the “democratizing fashion” movement. Here, I think the simple answer is just a business one: how do you pay 4 peoples salaries, pay for a studio in Paris, pay for materials, and pay for production without charging what they did?
The second answer is complicated and sparks more questions.
If a company wants to make their artistic statement within the world of high fashion, what perimeters allow them to do so? Is it officially being part of Paris Fashion week? What is PFW? If I screen print some tees and wear them outside the Lanvin show, did I do a presentation at Paris Fashion Week?
Do the parameters have to do with media coverage? Are you only legit if you’re covered by vogue?
Perhaps it does have to do with price?
My point is, this is an extremely complicated (and awesome!) questions it warrants a lot of discussion.
All of these responses really make me think! Thank you all for responding, I think it is actually really interesting how someone put it that margiela was making this statement but because it was made in the high fashion sphere it had the same limitations that all high fashion does. Thinking about that I sort of think in a sense that makes it a statement on the business itself as well as the ideas of high fashion
Sign me up to the crying at fashion shows club because those photos of the kids in front row made me bawl my eyes out. Thanks so much for this and I can't wait for the next one!
Next episode is gonna be so good
Next episode is gonna be so good
these keep getting better🙌🏽🔥
Thank you so much for these series, i really love this runway and i find it soo cool that the kids were able to participate also the fact that they made the invitations is kinda genius.
Best fashion show ever. I remember seeing it covered in Details magazine (when it was actually still cool and not corporate) and being enthralled that this is how things could be. Still have March ‘89 and ‘90 on my shelf.
what a beautiful show, what a beautiful cup!
I genuinely started crying when I saw those picture of those kids. Thanks for also crying it made me feel better cause I thought I was hella weird for crying cause of that 😭
This is my 10th time I’m still crying
Love the comment about clothes getting wrapped up into our identities. I can look back at photos of myself and with every attempted reinvention of my style, a new attitude would invariably be brought out. Or maybe a change in attitude brought about the style change? Clothes/people are weird. Anyway, I think David Bowie is a great example of this idea of clothing and identity. Look at how many times that man reinvented himself and how every reinvention had a look to accompany it
Definitely true. I wanted to talk about Bowie on this one but he didn’t make it into the final cut. I’m glad you brought him up. Brilliant man
@@BlissFoster Well if you ever decide to do an in-depth runway analysis of Dries, you could easily bring up Bowie. Seems to be one of his inspirations. And might be cool to talk about fashion and music in general tbh
that last note on how clothes become a part of who you are is something i think about all the time. The fact that everyone whether they are into fashion or not can strongly identify with a piece of clothing or a uniform or a movement in fashion is just all the more reason to be interested in fashion and the ins and outs of the industry.
Also love the message Margiela was sending out about appreciating the culture and people in which you borrow from. Many people can easily reference a culture or have a show in a far out location but allowing the kids to be a part of the show shows respect to the location he was using for his show. A sort of take and give situation
Great points! I also think it’s a strong argument to allow for unknown factors in runway shows. Everyone is so obsessed with making everything perfect that they miss out on stuff like this
what a beautiful piece of history!
Bliss you are so knowledgeable and genuine! another great video!
Thank you for existing
Bliss, you are such an insightful and interesting teacher - thank you for all the work!
Yeah just the fact he involved the kids like that makes this one of my favourite fashion moments
I feel like they had to keep building new suburbs of Paris just for Margiela to have increasingly distant shows.
Haha I think 20 is the final one actually. But yeah, I’m sure the city planners we’re frantically expanding after seeing how damn good Marty was 😂
His show defo becoming an inspiration to me for my upcoming show aka my debut showcase 🥰
this always makes me tear up a lil lol
Watching this in 2023, still good info
He has become one of my favorite designer if you can even call him that but one of my favorite artist
Absolute genius
On the subject of the paper vest, it's maybe something to think about that all fashion says something about the ideas of the time it was made. Even the counter culture of an era reflects the prevailing culture so in some ways you could think of older fashion as an advert for an intellectual product that may be completely irrelevant by the time you come to look at it. I found the resurgence of 90s style trainers recently super interesting for the reason because they're reflecting back the terrace culture and rave culture that just doesn't exist in the UK anymore at all. I'm from the North of England and the nostalgia for Casuals style is so easy to see on a night out.
This is a great interpretation of it. That vest is wonderful because it’s a piece that can facilitate so many different kinds of conversations. Great thought, thank you 💫💫
@@BlissFoster I'd be quite interested to hear your thoughts on the idea that there are going to be no more subcultures for fashion to cannibalise. Do you think we're really at the point where there will be no new emerging groups and instead they're just going to all exist at once?
I started watching your first mmm video and did not finish. Came across this and sat thru the entire thing and wondered how I did not finish the first two. Excellent! Just excellent! Subscribed half way thru. I came across Margiela around 1996. I picked up some German fashion magazine at Around The World in NYGD. I was floored and followed him and Helmut and Jil. I discovered I was a minimalist at heart, even though my design jobs were everything but minimal, modern and chic. They all spoke to me and pointed me in the direction.... Then I discovered Maurizio Altieri, Carol Christian Poell and Rick Owens around 2003 to bring me full circle. I decided to throw my hat in the ring at some point....
Thank you so much for the kind words! Do you design?
Bliss Foster Hi Bliss yes I do. I left the corporate side and I'm trying to figure it out for myself. Very minimal and modern, heavily influenced by Altieri and Poell. I aspire to the hand sewn work of those two at some point in the future. Now my work concentrates on being as minimal as possible. But that is changing because I have a lot of experience and I find myself thinking of embellishments again. So we'll see where it takes me.
Patiently 'cracking the code' - fantastic forensic work Bliss.
I loved it when you introduced the "bears of meaning" in the typed up Evans quote.
Amazing
this is my all time FAVORITE show, I’m so glad someone is talkin bout it. U just earned yourself a subscriber my friend. ❤️✨
I literally have an episode for every season that Martin did! We’re about 60% of the way through the series right now 💫💫
Bliss! Te quiero mucho! Thank you for share this! 😘
Thankyou for taking the time to do this !
Of course!!
You are incredible I’m thankful for your videos
That means so much to me! Thank you 😊
these vids are way too fucking good.
I just found your channel (exploring my love for the art of fashion). I've watched several of your videos so far and it has led me to trying out your Margiela series. So cool so far. Just had to comment that I recently watched your vid on 'personal style on a budget' where you showed the jackets you bought. You showed a pic of the first one, but did not of this, and I was hoping to see one. Well glad I'm watching this series for more than one reason now; super hot look Bliss!
I love this channel so much and wish you the best of luck. Can't wait to see this channels growth first hand.
always look forward to these
Okay, been busy all day and actually just finished the whole video now. The part of the shoe video that struck me was when you compared how the clothes you wore, how they start deteriorating over time, and how you compare that to what you may become-it's horrifying. Will you grow old and be forgotten? Much like the old clothes that you have at the back of your closet? We tend to take things for granted, like the press at this Margiela show, we may not appreciate something at that very moment until later on, but even then-do we actually appreciate it? or do we only appreciate it because everyone else is on that wave an you're trying to play catch up? That's something I enjoy from Margiela's runways, it shows to not conform to the norm if that's who you're not, because once that time leaves you won't be able to get that true, raw emotions that you would've originally received.
Definitely. It’s a great reminder to stay aware and present
I'm not crying... I'm just sweating from my eyes.
J adore Bliss!!!!!
😊😊
I love this video it was very informative and I enjoyed it 💕
Glad you liked it, Ava 💫💫
An early one here. Blessed to have this video when I woke upm
My fav fashion channel ever!
Keep doing this, please.
I love Margiela because I feel like there is such a distinct vision in his work it all seems to be very cohesive and each season is a clear progression from the previous
Yes! Totally agree. Very cohesive
also it goes beyond the clothes. every detail is accounted for
you’re doing such a good thing with this series, i’ve always wanted something just like this - so accessible.
baffles me that this show got the feedback that it did. but mentioning the turn of the decade that this show symbolized makes me excited for the 20s, not just in fashion but in every social sense as well
this series is soooo goood!!! thank you for putting it together. i'd love to have seen the names / locations / years of the more "stuck up" collections you give examples of at the beginning!
now I get why raf simons cried, this show is beautiful
so goooooood!!!!!!!!
Bliss blessed us with a video at aprox. 5:50am GMT, thank you!!
I can literally see how passionate you are about fashion. And it's really inspiring! I took notes during the video. Not gonna lie, I had goosebumps at some point
Thank you so much 😊
Bliss, could you please do a similar series but on Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons?
Yes! I actually created this idea for CDG. They might not necessarily be the next brand I focus on, but they for sure are going to have a series on them.
You should look at his years at Hermes! They were quite fantastic
Hermes episode is absolutely coming. I love that period of Martin’s work 💫💫
I feel like the plastic dry-cleaning bag inspired coats could as well act as a critique to the ironic wastefulness caused by fashion, as dry-cleaning bags are essentially serving as a "garment for the garment", meant to provide protection to the clothes, which are used as a means of protection for the body in the first place.
please do every raf
Josh mate
you ain’t even gotta ask
What are those what is that
Please do every Raf
Please do every Raf
Damn nice jacket.
Thanks!! Undercover SS15 💫💫
i love these videos can you do more? like helmut lang or hood by air
I’ve got 2 episodes of Hood By Air! Search “Hood By Air Bliss Foster” and it’ll come up! Definitely wanting to do a Helmut Lang episode soon.
New episodes start back up on Tuesday :)
Omg i loved so much this video, I’ve heard about this fashion show in a documentary about anti-fashion but didn’t find much more information about it elsewhere and this video explained so much and there is a lot of details! I love to study about fashion history and this runway show is truly iconic thank you so much for your work!!
You’re most welcome, Antonia :) The rest of the Margiela series is really good too. And the other runway episodes that cover different brands are quite strong as well 💫💫
Someone needs to find the full video from this show :')
BIG true
Great!
Thankyou
Do you think the striped Frankstein Longsleeve is a reference to JPG?
You can definitely see some influence there, yup!
Cool outfit bro
Hi loved this video! writing an essay for uni and wondering where you got your info?
Hank Green of fashion
best one
Love jpg being so gracious in talking about martin! 😭
Seriously. His cosign was a big part of getting Martin established.
Omg the part the kids played before the show is epic! Cute =]
Also, awh u almost cried talking about the boys
AM Shook, for the shows going forward the mesh top holding together volumes of clothing, became such a THING for the house to do and I just got to know and it's making me superrrrr excited...haha
WOOO
Whoo whoo!
日本語訳もお願いしたいです!!
1990ssのMartin Margielaのショーの映像が出回ってないので、貴方の動画を資料に勉強したいと考えています。
Would jean Paul gaultier have spoken so fondly of margiela or would he have been neglectful of it considering the differences in the clothing each were producing at the time?
Genuine question here!
Great question! It’s pretty well documented that JPG spoke highly of Martin. We have him on record saying “he’s the best assistant I ever had. I couldn’t teach him anything, he didn’t need it.” (I’m paraphrasing there). We also have him on film sitting at the first MMM show. Thanks for asking, again, great question.
This is really interesting to know how Margiela was the pioneer in so many techniques and concepts. The only issue for me was that the collection was completely incoherent. In my opinion of course. So there were some conceptual pieces, some ready to sell and wear. Maybe that's why there might have been some bad opinions. And the question is: How did he manage to stay in field after so inconsistent first few collections? I'm commenting this after watching just 3 shows, but I thought that it's a important question. If you talked about that in other video, maybe you could let me know?
I can see where you’re coming from. Without the context of the rest of the collections, these can feel pretty disjointed. I think it’s just normal early work, lots of experiments, not everything ends up sticking 🤷
If you’re wondering, the shows become much more cohesive when we get to the mid 90s 💫💫
This show seems to be about love and filled with love as corny as it seems. I use to just know margela for his tabi boots (which I still want to get one day!) but this series you are doing makes me appreciate him even more. Would you say his work is post modern?
Post modern is a tricky term. I honestly don’t know enough about it to give a helpful answer. I know we have a lot of people here who know much more about that than me. Hopefully we’ll get an art critic in your replies soon :)
In Postmodernism and Popular Culture, author Angela McRobbie describes the playful nature of a movement which thrived on the embrace of nonsense and didn’t take itself too seriously, before describing its interpretation in fashion as the reconfiguration of the past into something new: “[It is]the plundering of the past in the hope of discovering [clothes] which can be reinserted into the world of the image and given meaning as simultaneously old and new.” Postmodernism also became a project determined to skew the ideas of class and taste, dissolving the assumed distinction between “high” and “low” art and flashing the middle finger to privileged institutions whose existences were built on these hierarchies. In practice this meant layering references, repurposing materials and generally taking a radical new approach to creation. The aesthetics of postmodernism in fashion were varied but some examples centred on literal deconstruction, the splicing of hacked-away garments and the transformation of random objects into “fabrics”.
Maison Margiela’s longstanding “Artisanal” line is just one manifestation of this mind-set; the Belgian pioneer repurposed found objects and transformed them into exquisite clothing worthy of the fabled term “couture”, essentially elevating trash to treasure.
Why do I not find any footage of the runway :(
Footage for this show is very hard to find, I couldn’t come up with any myself
hey bliss, for the poster paper vest, why do you think margiela chose a vest as the medium to communicate his major theme of reusing things that are deemed as out dated and unusable? is there something symbolic, do you think, since it's a vest like it's specifically worn on your torso and chest and therefore 'close to one's heart'? What do you think?
Not sure off top. That a solid thought tho 💫
I can't think of another show since which has so profoundly changed the paradigm of beauty; that's why everyone was crying. The press are idiots; important fashion buyers didn't buy another shoulder padded jacket again. The 80's were over in two hours. The impact was felt around the world once the cool magazines were on the racks with their reports in April 1989. Marc Jacobs, the original unoriginal designer, 'launched' grunge at Perry Ellis the following season.
Great video; I agree with lorde below - getting better and better.
“The 80s were over in 2 hours!!!” I LOVE that!!
hey ! where did you find the video footage of the show ?! so cool !
Dm me on IG
Did Martin still put the microphone backstage with all of the bussle playing on the speakers before the show like he did in his first show ?
Great question! I’m not aware of them doing so for this show. There was nothing mentioned about that in the texts that I read. However, the curtain that stood between the runway and backstage was white and thin enough that you could clearly see the big lights behind it. So even if the microphone thing didn’t happen this season, they still seemed to draw a fairly thin line between the performance and the process that produced the performance (whether that was purposeful for not).