I’m on my second 5.0 supercharged L322 and both have been great. I feel my secret to success is buying a well sorted one from a private owner with the means to keep one nice. I also don’t push my luck and I only keep it for 2 or 3 years MAX. Cut the oil change intervals in half and check your coolant level frequency. Just enjoy it! There’s nothing like an L322s presence inside and out, even newer ones can’t match.
I love my 2012 Supercharged. I bought it just a few months ago, it had under 39,000 miles, and was maintained yearly at the original dealership. Just a lovely car to drive and look at.
I had a 2012 SC - bought it with 48k miles and drive it to 63k then sold it. Amazing experience - i bought it with a $7k warranty for $34k in 2017 so in total $41k. first week got it home - front airbags deflated overnight, also needed new brakes, thermostat and 2 front shocks. total was about 10k - warranty paid $7 and brakes and a few other items i paid for. also had a bad starter, transfer case and one other $2-3k expense. all in all warranty was worth ever penny. probably paid about 12k in repairs. now - I sold the truck after 2 years with one year warranty for $25k. effectively cost me $800 a month to drive a top line ffrr with 510 HP. perhaps would have been better to lease a new X5 but to me that the RR V8 SC is an animal for car enthusiast. i sold bc knew timing chain was a time bomb and sold before mine tanked. sometimes think i could have held on to that and been in great shape as the last 6 months had no issues. but i could not justify spending 11k on top of all the other things. at that point could just leased a new L405. im tempted to try it again and this time just comitt to a side budget of $20k and buy it clean one for $20 k and just see it as an amazing classic that can be repaired and refreshed. my fear is $20k may not be enough.
I own this EXACT same truck! Bought my 2012, HSE LUX last year. Same exterior color as this one, Ipanema Sand and same interior. Found it local to me at a used dealership and bought for $17k with 98k miles, but I LUCKED OUT. Previous owner spent $27,301.78 at the dealership in maintenance and put on approximately 43k miles in his 6 year ownership. Coolant crossover pipes were done and I’m on stock chains with 5k oil intervals with Liqui Moli. So far, no major issues in the past year! Thanks for the video man
@@AddictedMotors Owning my GAP IID tool has been essential to my ownership. It simultaneously amazes and terrifies me how many ECUs and Canbus connections there are for a decade old vehicle. The styling was at the inflection between classic, L322 lines and the upcoming L405. Can’t name another vehicle that blends luxury better with utility. These are amazing vehicles for even under $25k imho.
Something else to watchout for is the cowardice of certain mechanic shops. They will not touch these, even some BMW shops. If you do find a shop that will change the transmission fluid it will be ~$800 and they will force you to use the garbage OEM filter/pan combo. Your best bet is to buy an after market steel pan with a separate filter and the correct ZF fluid then get a mobile mechanic to change the fluid or do it yourself. The biggest challenge with the SC 5.0 is feathering the gas when you are taking off from a full stop. I have a lead foot and I know the torque converter hates me.
I got a 2010 5L SC with 201k KMS on it. Timing chains done at 108k KMS. Runs and looks fantastic. Only real problem I'm having is the clock/date and seat settings reset to 12:00 and 2009 every so often. Any idea why that could be? It's by far the best car I've ever owned and I see myself owning it for quite some time.
Had a lr4. Just traded to a 2021 SVR. It’s an amazing vehicle. I’ll still have to do the crossover pipes, sooner rather than later. Such great vehicles if well maintained
Owned a final year L322 SuperCharged. Was a land rocket on straight runs. On curves & turns it wallowed and handled like what it is: a big, top heavy luxury land yacht. Parts are Range Rover priced. Meaning, you will pay more than double for the same part of other lower Land Rover models.
@@Spartansrule118 Transfer case burned out at @93K miles. Driver wiper motor faulty @104K miles. Driver door electronic actuator failure @105K miles. Air struts have 100% failure rate due to dry rot. Figure replacement at around 85-95K miles (fronts struts go before the rears). Vehicle would intermittently go into limp mode under hard acceleration (never figured out cause).
Such a shame …. The 10-13 is such a good looking l322. I’ve been looking for a 07-09 for 3 years on and off blk/blk with under 100k miles but they keep escaping me 😢
The ZF 6HP trannies in the rovers are the same as the Ford and GM 6R80 and 6L80. They are good for around 450 ft-lbs of torque. Not sure if they did anything different for the supercharged 5.0s.
Shame USA didn't get the 4.4tdv8, with the 8 speed ZF box, that's a peach of a setup, that's what I've got in the UK. Granted, it's not quite as fast as the V8 petrol, and you still have the usual JLR glitches to deal with too 😂
The 4.4 diesel should've been the primary one offered in North America; our driving distances are HUGE compared to the UK, so it really would've benefitted alot of us!
PCV valves? Injectors? I did those two and now I have no smoke (I have a 2010 5.0 Supercharged). The diaphragm was torn in both of my PCV valves and I had a few leaky injectors. Start with the PCV valves first, cheap and easy to start with. Best car I've ever owned. Just need to stay up on maintenance.
In my opinion this modern trend by vehicle manufacturers, particularly Landrover, of stretching the oil change intervals to 10k miles plus is a huge mistake. I believe that the max miles you should change your oil at is 6000 miles. It doesn't cost a fortune so why take the risk of increased engine wear for the sake of a couple of hundred bucks!!
Hmmm 🤨 there is a confusion of opinions and facts here. Mainly the weak issues for the 5.0ltr NA or SC versions are the timing chain guides. If rattles on cold do the guides for peace of mind for about $3-4k done ✔️. Plastics degrade over time in any car and yes there are maintenance items that need to be replaced. I’ve owned 5 of these L322s and L320s now for 20 years …. ( mostly the 5.0l SC) I service them religiously every year with LR specialists who do anything the cars need and require. I have never had any major issues or problems with any of these cars. The old adage is important …condition condition condition!!! that’s the most important thing to make sure you have it inspected and it hasn’t been abused and it’s been regularly serviced and cared for you should be fine. If you are concerned about spending a couple of grand a year on these cars then do not buy them it’s very simple… they are a big heavy expensive car and they require the correct maintenance to keep them running well. It’s really that simple. My current L320 RRS 5.0l SC 2010 is ideal and I love it. It’s a great car and I keep it well and regularly maintained as I do with all my cars. My advice to anyone looking for a Range Rover L322 or L320 have a PPI done and make sure it has perfect service history. There is nothing MORE expensive than a CHEAP neglected Range Rover with all its maintenance deferred …
Love the content bro, I used to work with JLR in Nashville, had a lot of similar stories hahahah. Also, if you would consider it, I would love to edit your videos, if you ever consider taking an editor on, please let me know!
It’s taking everything in me to not write about what happened to me last year. Do not buy unless you’re bob the builder and the most important part is yes you can fix it.
Watching this as I'm currently bidding on a mechanically damaged 2011 RR L322 5L N/A lol. You are definitely my LR RR guru please keep doing what you're doing these vehicles are some of the best driving full fat suv's you can own but they cost you big time if you're not expecting it
Opinions on the '13 5.0s? Understood they switched to the L405 for full-size but I've read they made improvements that allowed them to be less painful to own. Maybe swan song for LR3s/L320s?
If you find a nice car with serious mantenense done by landrover mechanics. Who also have the timing chainge done... Then why would you not by it? Its a landrover, of course the maintanence will cost.. If you are smart and do regular service before things breakes you will not find a better car... IT is not a prius. Its a 4x4 with a performance engine.... Range Rover or not, never by a car with pore maintanence records.... All cars these days brake down. Escalade, bmw, audi and mercedes, they all brake at some point...
@ I’ve got the same engine in my Jaguar XKR and it’s a great engine. When I do buy a Range Rover it will probably be a diesel as the 5 litre is heavy on fuel in the Range Rover but if I could afford the fuel I’d pick one with a 5 litre v8 as it’s such a good engine
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m on my second 5.0 supercharged L322 and both have been great. I feel my secret to success is buying a well sorted one from a private owner with the means to keep one nice. I also don’t push my luck and I only keep it for 2 or 3 years MAX. Cut the oil change intervals in half and check your coolant level frequency. Just enjoy it! There’s nothing like an L322s presence inside and out, even newer ones can’t match.
The way.
I love my 2012 Supercharged. I bought it just a few months ago, it had under 39,000 miles, and was maintained yearly at the original dealership. Just a lovely car to drive and look at.
I had a 2012 SC - bought it with 48k miles and drive it to 63k then sold it. Amazing experience - i bought it with a $7k warranty for $34k in 2017 so in total $41k. first week got it home - front airbags deflated overnight, also needed new brakes, thermostat and 2 front shocks. total was about 10k - warranty paid $7 and brakes and a few other items i paid for. also had a bad starter, transfer case and one other $2-3k expense. all in all warranty was worth ever penny. probably paid about 12k in repairs. now - I sold the truck after 2 years with one year warranty for $25k. effectively cost me $800 a month to drive a top line ffrr with 510 HP. perhaps would have been better to lease a new X5 but to me that the RR V8 SC is an animal for car enthusiast. i sold bc knew timing chain was a time bomb and sold before mine tanked. sometimes think i could have held on to that and been in great shape as the last 6 months had no issues. but i could not justify spending 11k on top of all the other things. at that point could just leased a new L405. im tempted to try it again and this time just comitt to a side budget of $20k and buy it clean one for $20 k and just see it as an amazing classic that can be repaired and refreshed. my fear is $20k may not be enough.
I own this EXACT same truck! Bought my 2012, HSE LUX last year. Same exterior color as this one, Ipanema Sand and same interior. Found it local to me at a used dealership and bought for $17k with 98k miles, but I LUCKED OUT. Previous owner spent $27,301.78 at the dealership in maintenance and put on approximately 43k miles in his 6 year ownership. Coolant crossover pipes were done and I’m on stock chains with 5k oil intervals with Liqui Moli. So far, no major issues in the past year! Thanks for the video man
@@thecarsavant thanks for watching. And good luck
@@AddictedMotors Owning my GAP IID tool has been essential to my ownership. It simultaneously amazes and terrifies me how many ECUs and Canbus connections there are for a decade old vehicle. The styling was at the inflection between classic, L322 lines and the upcoming L405. Can’t name another vehicle that blends luxury better with utility. These are amazing vehicles for even under $25k imho.
@@thecarsavant any hiccups in your ownership?
Something else to watchout for is the cowardice of certain mechanic shops. They will not touch these, even some BMW shops. If you do find a shop that will change the transmission fluid it will be ~$800 and they will force you to use the garbage OEM filter/pan combo. Your best bet is to buy an after market steel pan with a separate filter and the correct ZF fluid then get a mobile mechanic to change the fluid or do it yourself.
The biggest challenge with the SC 5.0 is feathering the gas when you are taking off from a full stop. I have a lead foot and I know the torque converter hates me.
Asked my wife if she wanted something cool OR reliable, she said cool. So we' bought a 96k mile 2011 L322 5.0 lol What a machine!
@@bianco996 a keeper
I had wondered what ended up happening with this truck. Great video!
Where's my 5.0 guys at?
4 5.0s in the family 😬
I got a 2010 5L SC with 201k KMS on it. Timing chains done at 108k KMS. Runs and looks fantastic. Only real problem I'm having is the clock/date and seat settings reset to 12:00 and 2009 every so often. Any idea why that could be? It's by far the best car I've ever owned and I see myself owning it for quite some time.
@@johnshopkins4786perhaps the battery?
Had a lr4. Just traded to a 2021 SVR. It’s an amazing vehicle. I’ll still have to do the crossover pipes, sooner rather than later. Such great vehicles if well maintained
Owned a final year L322 SuperCharged. Was a land rocket on straight runs. On curves & turns it wallowed and handled like what it is: a big, top heavy luxury land yacht. Parts are Range Rover priced. Meaning, you will pay more than double for the same part of other lower Land Rover models.
do you still have it?
@@Spartansrule118 No. Sold back in 2020.
@@GunsAndRovers any excessive maintenance/ poor reliability?
@@Spartansrule118 Transfer case burned out at @93K miles. Driver wiper motor faulty @104K miles. Driver door electronic actuator failure @105K miles. Air struts have 100% failure rate due to dry rot. Figure replacement at around 85-95K miles (fronts struts go before the rears). Vehicle would intermittently go into limp mode under hard acceleration (never figured out cause).
@@GunsAndRovers would you do it again?
Your channel needs more views! Love my rovies 🥰
@@SupremeKid98 tell the people
Might check the 2x PCV diaphragms on the passenger valve cover first.
@@NialGivens yup. That tracks. Forgot these have two!
Such a shame …. The 10-13 is such a good looking l322. I’ve been looking for a 07-09 for 3 years on and off blk/blk with under 100k miles but they keep escaping me 😢
@@xplosiveg06 You need to play rover roulette.
The ZF 6HP trannies in the rovers are the same as the Ford and GM 6R80 and 6L80. They are good for around 450 ft-lbs of torque. Not sure if they did anything different for the supercharged 5.0s.
@@Land_Raver I doubt they did.
They do have different part numbers listed for the 5.0 supercharged vs NA on Roverland parts. Maybe there is a slight difference. LR018571 vs LR018570
The supercharged 5.0 output 461 ft-lbs of torque, so I guess it's within that range.
Shame USA didn't get the 4.4tdv8, with the 8 speed ZF box, that's a peach of a setup, that's what I've got in the UK. Granted, it's not quite as fast as the V8 petrol, and you still have the usual JLR glitches to deal with too 😂
The 4.4 diesel should've been the primary one offered in North America; our driving distances are HUGE compared to the UK, so it really would've benefitted alot of us!
They are truly one of the best looking SUVs around, it's just ashame they are so expensive too fix and have many known issues.
PCV valves? Injectors? I did those two and now I have no smoke (I have a 2010 5.0 Supercharged). The diaphragm was torn in both of my PCV valves and I had a few leaky injectors. Start with the PCV valves first, cheap and easy to start with. Best car I've ever owned. Just need to stay up on maintenance.
Next on the list
"It's just part of the ownership experience!"
There was quite bit blue smoke coming out of back.
In my opinion this modern trend by vehicle manufacturers, particularly Landrover, of stretching the oil change intervals to 10k miles plus is a huge mistake. I believe that the max miles you should change your oil at is 6000 miles.
It doesn't cost a fortune so why take the risk of increased engine wear for the sake of a couple of hundred bucks!!
Hmmm 🤨 there is a confusion of opinions and facts here.
Mainly the weak issues for the 5.0ltr NA or SC versions are the timing chain guides. If rattles on cold do the guides for peace of mind for about $3-4k done ✔️. Plastics degrade over time in any car and yes there are maintenance items that need to be replaced.
I’ve owned 5 of these L322s and L320s now for 20 years …. ( mostly the 5.0l SC) I service them religiously every year with LR specialists who do anything the cars need and require. I have never had any major issues or problems with any of these cars. The old adage is important …condition condition condition!!! that’s the most important thing to make sure you have it inspected and it hasn’t been abused and it’s been regularly serviced and cared for you should be fine. If you are concerned about spending a couple of grand a year on these cars then do not buy them it’s very simple… they are a big heavy expensive car and they require the correct maintenance to keep them running well. It’s really that simple. My current L320 RRS 5.0l SC 2010 is ideal and I love it. It’s a great car and I keep it well and regularly maintained as I do with all my cars. My advice to anyone looking for a Range Rover L322 or L320 have a PPI done and make sure it has perfect service history. There is nothing MORE expensive than a CHEAP neglected Range Rover with all its maintenance deferred …
Peeping that e36
Sold
Love the content bro, I used to work with JLR in Nashville, had a lot of similar stories hahahah. Also, if you would consider it, I would love to edit your videos, if you ever consider taking an editor on, please let me know!
Nice video. So in your opinion the one to choose would be the 07-09 l322.2 version?
@@realvolvofreak yup. Own one.
@@AddictedMotorswhich engine do you have and/or recommend?? Thx!
@ 4.2 sc jag v8
It’s taking everything in me to not write about what happened to me last year.
Do not buy unless you’re bob the builder and the most important part is yes you can fix it.
Hoping you cave and write about what happened…
Watching this as I'm currently bidding on a mechanically damaged 2011 RR L322 5L N/A lol. You are definitely my LR RR guru please keep doing what you're doing these vehicles are some of the best driving full fat suv's you can own but they cost you big time if you're not expecting it
Opinions on the '13 5.0s? Understood they switched to the L405 for full-size but I've read they made improvements that allowed them to be less painful to own. Maybe swan song for LR3s/L320s?
@@benjaminhadcock4287 Nope. Same issues!
I got the 2011 sc and it sounds like the timing belt is coming … time to sell 😅😅😂
If you find a nice car with serious mantenense done by landrover mechanics. Who also have the timing chainge done... Then why would you not by it?
Its a landrover, of course the maintanence will cost.. If you are smart and do regular service before things breakes you will not find a better car...
IT is not a prius. Its a 4x4 with a performance engine....
Range Rover or not, never by a car with pore maintanence records.... All cars these days brake down. Escalade, bmw, audi and mercedes, they all brake at some point...
The supercharged is the only one to get imo
Big facts !!
Are the 3.0s any better?
No
I got a 2012 RRS 5.0, the engine and car feel so much better on road than my 2006 LR3 4.4. Still going to hope the 2013 timing chain fix is real lol.
Your RR smokes like an F4 Phantom 😅
@@toddb6576 It’s a feature.
Toyota just don’t have the same feel. Yes it might be more reliable. Might be.
great stuff Troy - would you buy a diesel 3.6TDV8? (I am aware they're not available in the US)
@@cosminstaicu6522 sure. What you don’t know can’t hurt you.
@@AddictedMotors ahahahaha good one
I owner 2’d that shit. Tundra now
I watched ten minutes and he still hadn’t actually said what the issues were or why I shouldn’t buy one. This guy needs an editor!
@@wandering_not_lost Sounds like you shouldn’t buy one.
@ I’ve got the same engine in my Jaguar XKR and it’s a great engine. When I do buy a Range Rover it will probably be a diesel as the 5 litre is heavy on fuel in the Range Rover but if I could afford the fuel I’d pick one with a 5 litre v8 as it’s such a good engine