I completely agree with this! I’m late to the game and just found the channel but in a couple of weeks I’ve almost watched every video! It won’t be long before I’m completely caught up!
I repair chainsaws for a friend that owns a tree service and no matter how many times I tell him to blow out the saws he forgets. The older saws (028) didn’t seem to have the many places for the oily saw dust to build up. Enjoy your site very much.
My friend spent $450 last fall having his 201 rebuilt and it had very few hours on it. He got it out today and it didn't want to run. When he finally got it started, it ran Terrible. I'm hoping this video will help get things right. I know he didn't know about calibration. Thank you. I like the straight-forward way you explain things.
Thank you sir. Learn stuff from you all the time. I've still gotta figure out what's causing my Stihl FS90 to pressurize (or have a vaccuum) on the tank and shut down after about a half a tank of fuel
Not my favorite saw to work on but it's part of the gig. I think for as much grief as mtronic gets, it's amazing the environment these saws live in and keep going. Hell, probably 90% of the mtronic owners I talk to don't even know recalibration is a thing... now if they'd just make the handle wires a little more robust!!
Probably a terrible idea but wander if a couple small holes in that brake cover would increase or decrease the build-up? Would atleast make it possible to blow out the muck before it gets so packed.
I would have a vacuum /pressure test done before spending any money on parts. If it does pass, I would suggest upgrading the coil to version 3 and a white solenoid at the same time. May be a good idea to install a carb kit and new fuel filter while you're at it. It may be wiser to just buy a new saw. If your saw has a ton of use, many of the other wear parts (clutch, rings, brake, rubber components etc.) could be on their way out. At a certain point saws become a money pit. That is for you to decide. Remember, after you replace the coil/solenoid, everything else on the saw is 7-8 years old.
It's to my understanding so I'm asking. ??doesn't it need to be warmed up first before calibration ? I do ..so that's why I'm asking always thought it would hurt it if not?
It's baked in to the calibration, so to speak. That 30 seconds on choke allows the saw to warm up, and more importantly saturate the crankcase with a rich fuel mix. As it goes through the calibration process it's set up for success. That's my laymans explanation of it
Your channel will blow up, I watch every vid you post, I'm a little bit perfectionist so i like your depth of detail
A little nudge from RUclips would be appreciated. Thank you for the kind words.
I completely agree with this! I’m late to the game and just found the channel but in a couple of weeks I’ve almost watched every video! It won’t be long before I’m completely caught up!
I repair chainsaws for a friend that owns a tree service and no matter how many times I tell him to blow out the saws he forgets. The older saws (028) didn’t seem to have the many places for the oily saw dust to build up. Enjoy your site very much.
My friend spent $450 last fall having his 201 rebuilt and it had very few hours on it. He got it out today and it didn't want to run. When he finally got it started, it ran Terrible. I'm hoping this video will help get things right. I know he didn't know about calibration. Thank you. I like the straight-forward way you explain things.
That's a shame it doesn't run rite after all that $$$. Keep me posted and let me know if I can help.
you are absolutley a life saver, for a small tree buisness owner
Need some more Arborist subscribers....Lol!
Good job! 😉👍
Just done that a few days ago. Packed full hard to engage
It's a once or twice a year thing. No getting around it.
👍 I have had that brake problem on an ms192t that I still run. I think the orange fuel filters are finer and need changed more often. Thanks.
Great info!
Never found a way to keep the cover from burning eventually... thanks for what you do
I keep a handful of spare spark arrestors for the 201"s on the shelf. Just trim and replace.
Nice job Rich!
Thank you!!
what does the hole by the bar nut do on the 201T? why not just seal it up if it lets that much dirt into the cover?
Thank you sir. Learn stuff from you all the time. I've still gotta figure out what's causing my Stihl FS90 to pressurize (or have a vaccuum) on the tank and shut down after about a half a tank of fuel
The fuel valve is stuck
Not my favorite saw to work on but it's part of the gig. I think for as much grief as mtronic gets, it's amazing the environment these saws live in and keep going. Hell, probably 90% of the mtronic owners I talk to don't even know recalibration is a thing... now if they'd just make the handle wires a little more robust!!
I swear I've replaced 45-50 top handles in the last year. They just cant take a bounce like the 200's
Probably a terrible idea but wander if a couple small holes in that brake cover would increase or decrease the build-up? Would atleast make it possible to blow out the muck before it gets so packed.
Mine is version 2 mtronic, how to reset this ms201tc?
Good. Class thanks
Thank you Sir!
I also have a stihl ms 201tc, I changed new bearings, new oil seals, but there is play in the crankshaft, what do you think?
OEM bearings? A little play is unfortunate but acceptable. I've seen it before.
Sorry about another oil opinion.. Do you think that Saber at 40:1 burns as clean as red armor at 40:1. Do both seem to lubricate as good as the other.
Saber at 40:1 burns super clean. Both are some of the best oils you can buy. Saber IMHO is the better of the two.
Isn’t it bad to run at high revs with no load? Damages piston?
Thanks for the video, i have a first gen ms201tc m-tronic (black solenoid) do you know if the green or wight solenoid will work in this saw?
I would have a vacuum /pressure test done before spending any money on parts. If it does pass, I would suggest upgrading the coil to version 3 and a white solenoid at the same time. May be a good idea to install a carb kit and new fuel filter while you're at it.
It may be wiser to just buy a new saw. If your saw has a ton of use, many of the other wear parts (clutch, rings, brake, rubber components etc.) could be on their way out. At a certain point saws become a money pit. That is for you to decide. Remember, after you replace the coil/solenoid, everything else on the saw is 7-8 years old.
It's to my understanding so I'm asking. ??doesn't it need to be warmed up first before calibration ? I do ..so that's why I'm asking always thought it would hurt it if not?
It's baked in to the calibration, so to speak. That 30 seconds on choke allows the saw to warm up, and more importantly saturate the crankcase with a rich fuel mix. As it goes through the calibration process it's set up for success. That's my laymans explanation of it
@@richardflagg3084 thanks was always afraid to over heat them so warmed em up first
.now I know save time thanks man
2:32👍,😂😂
What state 😕
Sunny South Carolina
Nice job rich!
I’ve had this happen on a 461
The simple stuff is easy to over look. Kills me sometimes.......
@@richardflagg3084 I just don’t know any better most of the time to be honest 😂
@@cajun3197 Me neither. Better luck than good.
@@richardflagg3084 hahhaha
I'd pay ya
Blah blah blah!!
😂😂😂😂
I use a dental pic to clean that crap out of the spring and brake assembly.
Should have said Yada yada yada. I should have used a shovel on this one. 🤣🤣
Rich great tips and good video. 👍👍🌲🌲🪓🪓