I did the same thing with my 170. I used a 16" bar and chain with .063 gauge. Works real well. I think the 170/180 is an underrated saw meaning it has more power than is advertised.
*I put this same bar on my 1973 stihl 015 and it cuts much faster and better than the old 1/4 043 stock bar and chain. I had to change the spur gear and oil pump gear to 3/8 but it was well worth it. Thanks for all your awesome VIDS.*
Great video as usual. Just did this to my MS170 with an Oregon set with a second saw getting a 16" Stihl set. For your followers, the use of the word gauge is misleading by the saw people. It is not like wire gauge or sheet metal gauge. It is the actual thickness of the web in inches, like 0.040" 0.050" and 0.063" Easy to measure with calipers or micrometer. I was thinking of going 18" on the second saw but even with the 14", the saw prefers dry wood and straight cuts. But I still love it. The important thing for the small engine is to let the RPMs rev up and don't bog down the engine with your cutting pressure.
Very popular saw among homeowners. Most reviews and maintenance videos is focusing on large, commercial machines. Thank you for taking time and clear walk-thru this one. Cheers!
Very well done, very informative and clear. I have a Farm Boss 290, and since I am in my mid 70's, it's getting to be too much for me. I wanted the MS 170 or MS 180, but I wanted a more robust bar and chain. Your video here, IS just the thing I'm looking for. Thank you.
Man oh man, how I wish I had come across this video earlier as I JUST replaced the bar and chain on my MS170. I have worn out so many of the tiny chains it's ridiculous! If only I'd had this info earlier I'd have installed the more robust bar and chain. Thanks a ton for the info! Next Time!
Hi , thank you for the video . I have a ms180c that was due for a new bar , I upgraded to the heavier bar and chain and couldn't be happier , the heavier chain just does not wear out nearly as quickly . I also was having troubles with the easy start system so I bought a pre assembled side cover rope start for the ms170 and it was a 5 minute bolt on and requires no extra effort to pull since the engine is so small . I also replaced the chain adjustment with the side cover / bolts and adjuster from a ms170 . All the parts are on amazon for little money and its been a much more pleasant saw to use . Thank you for your video and reader comments .
Good video, I have a ms 170 that came with the .043 chain and 14 inch bar. After watching this I replaced with a .050 16 inch bar and chain. Was working on a ash with a 24 inch dia. trunk had no problem plowing through no bogging and throwing nice big chips. The saw is like a different saw well worth the $60.00 I spent at the Stihl dealer and everything was in stock. Highly recommend thanks donyboy 73
I’m going to do this with my 180c when this chain wears out it since the guide bar has a healthy sized valley on both sides I’ll be happy as long as the chains last longer
I just upgraded my Stihl MS170 to the larger gauge (0.050). I also noticed my old Echo 310 already had large gauge (0.050) chain. I love it. Thank you for your help.
I just bought a ms170 today from my stihl dealer because they are on sale and a great price for them. I put a 14" bar on as well and 50 gauge chain. I have seen those 43 gauge chains get banged up quick and not last long on friends saws. Between your video Don and what I seen with my own eyes from friends it was a no brainer! I am looking forward to limbing with it for firewood and taking it on hunting/camping trips as well. Great videos Don, as always!
I followed your instructions in order to replace the chain on my Stihl saw. Everything proceeded smoothly -- no problems. Thanks much for the clear, detailed instructions.
Thanks for this informative video. I bought a brand new MS180 and had the dealership provide me with this upgrade and it actually saved me $30aud ($319aud total), plus I didn’t have to wait until the 16” bar and 0.043 Picco chain were in need of replacement to enjoy the benefit of the upgrade.
one of the best technical instructors out there. my ms180 is getting harder to start but works really well when it gets going. luckily it only comes out a few times a year otherwise i'd have no shoulder left!!
If you can sharpen a chain properly, You will get a sharper chain than comes out of the box with just a few minutes with a proper round file and a few light passes with a flat file on the rakers. I took my bar off to have a look and it suffered almost every issue you described just to a lesser degree. Thank you for a most informative and well crafted video as always!
Just bought this upgrade. I love my 2 018c’s. I use them for 75% of my chain saw needs. I’m going to put this bar and chain on one of them and keep the other stock for trimming.
I just did this on my ms180 and it works great. I was worried the saw wouldn't have enough power to run it, but so far so good. Thanks, I enjoy your videos. You're a good teacher.
Don, I learned something that is applicable to this video. The bar and chain on an ms 241 are the same as on a 180C with one exception. The 241 uses a .050 gauge chain, instead of an .043 gauge chain. Both are 16 inch, 3/8P chains. Instead of dropping down to a 14 inch bar, you can use the 16 inch bar for the 241. I have not installed the bar and chain off my 241 on my 180 but I am sure it will work. I would have already done it but my 180 has that easy adjust crap on it, which I hate. I can adjust a side adjust a lot faster than that easy adjust crap. Another reason I traded in my ms 181cbe when I got my new 241, which I love. You might want to do a video on converting the easy start and adjust saws to normal start and side adjust. The only redeeming features these saws have is the primer bulb and I always forgot to press , anyway.
I love the way that saw starts, and runs, and wish all of mine ran that good. I will remember the difference between the two bars, and chains you took off, and put on the saw.
Thorough explanation. To protect your fingers/hand from being cut should the chain jamb when rotating the chain by hand, only move the chain in the direction of travel not back and forth as was demonstrated in the video. Excessively worn sprockets or burrs on the drive links after a chain derailing are notorious for causing the chain to jamb.
Thanks Don, I have the 170 and I had written in that it wasn't starting after only just under 2 years of little use. Did pull the carb, screen was 2/3rds clogged with dirt from an old gas can,,, my fault. cleaned thoroughly and just reinstalled same gaskets and diaphragm s,,, runs good. Your videos are a definite incentive. Thanks so much,,, ✌
Thanks, as a matter of fact I did buy some premix at Home Depot that also has something in it that cleans an ailing engine for the cs 300 I have. I've used additive s in my bikes but this is formulated for 2 strokes. What do you think of premixed gas and additives? Thanks for the advice too. Cept for price it is a nice idea.
Some mention of increased risk of chain kickback seems appropriate. The bar and chain conversion creates a much more aggressive bite with a similar increase in chain kick back injury potential. No free lunch. Know what you are up to when you convert.
Thanks for your video. I did not need it for the bar. Just for the old bar and new chain. It had been awhile since I used the saw so I forgot the steps for the re-install. Your video helped out a lot. Again.. thanks.
My saw is 170C - C for Comfort and low vibration - great for old ladies. It's a lousy chain and I'll be converting mine to .050". Thanks for this, glad I didn't buy a replacement original chain.
This is just what I was looking for! I was getting ready to throw my new 170 out the window. The stock “baby” bar and chain bind up all the time. I’m sure this also has to do with the the lack of power the saw has but I’m gonna try this upgrade.
Brilliant I have just bought a new MS181 and had no idea how to fit the chain tensioner. Your video sorted that and was perfect visuals, voice over and explanation. Thank you
I have 1,3 mm chain right out of the box in my ms 180, bought in Europe this year, and I ofcouse bought full chisel chain which makes huge difference if you cut fresh, clean wood and you are able to sharpen it properly
Thanks very much for the info. My MS 180 is a year old so when the bar / chain is worn, I'll be going with the higher gauge. Regards - Simon / Australia
Dony, I recently did this upgrade and it worked very well. I just wanted to thank you. My dealer even had the parts in stock. A bit pricey but now I have a nice little saw.
Love the tool-less chain tensioners. Have one on the poulan pro I have and makes quick adjustments in the Field so much easier. Doesn't seem to make a difference in performance or reliability either.
Tank you nice video! If you want to give the ms 170 and ms 180 more power and better tuning you can replace the single adjust screw stock carburetor with the WT-215 carburetor that fits on the ms 210-250 series! It has a H and L screw adjusting carb for better tuning! Then you can open up the muffler better so it can breath easier with more power! (Look up muffler mod for the ms-170 or me 180) (you can order the upgraded carb for around $10.00) 👀😎
Go to “Aboristsite.com” and search for “MS180 Adjustable Carb” (will be the same for the ms170) Look up WT-215 carb on eBay or Amazon! The cheaper carbs work! The newer ms170 throttle lingage bends the opposite way on one end than the older 017’s, which makes it a bit tricky trying to hook up to the wt-215 carb. I ordered the older 017 throttle linkage where both ends bend the same way and it much easier to hook it up to the throttle trigger and the new carb! (The new carb has a hole whereas the ms170 stock carb has a slot on the lever that the linkage hooks up to, making it easier!) You also have to drill new holes in the case for the adjustment screws! But you’ll be able to give it a proper tune and a muffler mod if you want. (They run lean stock) And you can also advance the timing a tad to give it more power as well! Highly recommend to watch videos on “tuning in the wood!” on that site as well! 😎
thank you for posting this. I was considering the same idea after my local stihl dealer no longer carries. 043 chains. luckily they were able to make one on site.
I've gotta do this to my 2020 ms180. It has that self adjusting carb and man when it gets on the pipe its a freak vs some of the videos I've seen on RUclips. I run 93 octane and motul 800 2t premix. I just bought a stock replacement chain but next run doing the .50 upgrade. Thanks!
I put a Stihl 16 inch .050 gage bar and chain on my ms181 CBE this week. That .043 gage chain is useless. It also loves to catch between the sprocket washer and circlip when I try to put the bar back on. The .050 chain does not have this same problem. I also got rid of that flimsy tapered bar that came on my 181 and got a parallel sided Stihlrollamatic bar. It works fine.
The 018 is fitted as standard with a 050 thou bar and chain. I also like to give a new or cleaned bar and chain a squirt of oil before running since it takes the oiler a while to get oil to it.
Thank you very much. A great help re the little nut, it fell out of the bar. I was looking for a second screw for a bar. Have you a video for sharpening the chain with the stihl gadget?
Very good video D boy. I have the 170 and only a year into ownership and maybe two uses, it won't start. Gonna check my fuel hose, doesn't seem to be getting fuel. Guess thats another video. Thanks so much.
What a great video! I ended up watching it several times. All the info is here and it is very well presented and clear, even for newbies like me. Very useful information. Thanks a lot!
I bought a new 171 from my local ranch supply. They suggested your upgrade to the 50 ga chain and shorter bar. The upgrade was included at no charge. (I had not seen this video). What a great suggestion. Thanks. Saw works great!
I did the same thing you did on my ms 181 CBE. I put a brand new 16 inch Stihl bar and chain. The tapered bar that was on my 181 was flimsy and would bend and vibrate under load. I ordered a new sprocket, bearing and clutch from eBay. The bearing and clutch were ok but they sent me a seven tooth spur sprocket which is not correct for the 181 with 3/8 LP chain. It uses a 6 tooth spur sprocket
Don, No matter how tight I tighten the bar nuts on my Stihl 034 the bar will still move. I have tried everything to fix this but I still cannot get the bar to tighten properly. The bar and chain are new and are exact replacements. Thank You.
Don, lots of good stuff! A guy just gave me 2 MS 180's to use as parts - but with a little work and a few of your videos I got one of them running - thanks! They had no bar or chain, so yesterday I picked them up from my dealer, then watched your upgrade - but at the end I noticed the part numbers did not match the ones you gave out. Your video is from 8 years ago, so maybe the numbers have changed. I wanted to test the saw out today, but am not very familiar with bars & chains - so was hoping you had time to tell me "go with them" or "you've got the wrong part". The bar is 3005 000 4813, the chain is 3613 005 0055. If you can help, great, but either way, thanks for your video work! Tom
Hey! New subscriber here...great channel you got here, great "how to´s " and really easy to follow how you do things. I have two MS 180´s and have changed from 14", .043 bar and chain which was on both saws to 16", .050 on one saw and 16", .043 on the other. Both works great, the one with the .050 maybe "bogging" out a little bit sooner than the one with .043, but that can just be how I run it. Thanks for the great tips about small engines, it has been very helpful :)
TheNorthener Yeah I commented on the fact that if you increase the gage size you either need to decrease the bar length, not extend it. These less expensive saws are probably engineered to run at peak performance with all parts stock. Iffin you create more drag by increasing chain bulk and cut, you should downgrade the length to keep engine doing it's best to perform well. Most tools are designed to only do with what they are sold with, unless you make improvements in engine output. They will run, but like you said, bog easier, wear out faster.
TheNorthener that's exactly what i was going to say they put that little chain on it so they can get away with that little engine the big chain will work but just won't have much power
TheNorthener, with that old tore up chain he had on the saw it's hardly possible to believe he was cutting any wood. The bar had overheated and discolored so all the hardness temper was removed and that bar would wear very quickly if he just replaced the chain.
DonyBoy, I understand what your saying. I have found that the speed of the saw slows down.. not to compensate for the slow down of the saw, you must replace the sprocket to a faster sprocket. I don't know the numbers. Or remember where to get them. I will try to get that info for you.. I did agree with the previous comment on speed.. .. and the facts that you can speed up any chain with a different sprocket. . Note.. this is a aftermarket parts purchase. . "Don't tell ANYONE ELSE" :-) Please update the video when u can with the .050 chain and different sprocket. . Good Videos. Thanks you PS.. It is my opinion that speed Sprocket works very well. . I must say some say that it changed the power of the saw.. I find that by bringing up the speed in my chain, I gain a noticeable faster cut.. it seems to slow done in the BIG hardwood.. it a smaller saw.. and I'm alway going to my 026. Or bigger when I go up In log size.. so the small saw for trimming... is incredibly fast!
Hi, Donyboy, thanks for your excellent videos. I have a Stihl MS 261 which came with a 20" bar, .325 pitch and .063 gauge. I want to install a 24" bar. From what I can tell (correct me if I'm wrong) for a 24" bar I have to go to a .375" pitch. Will I need a different drive sprocket? I need the 24" bar to Alaska mill a tree - kind of a one time project. What are the Stihl part numbers I would need for the bar, sprocket, and chain? I thinkI would prefer a less aggressive chain rather than full chisel. Thanks and let me know if there is a way to help support your channel.
If I was to buy a 180 then eventually perform this upgrade when the original 0.43 is warn, what size filing kit would you recommend. Would a file that suits 0.43 also be compatible with 0.50, or would you need to get separate files? I would not doubt buy a filing kit when purchasing the saw so would like to know if I can get one that suits both gauges. Keep up the great work, very clear and informative videos.
Great video! You seem fairly knowledgeable about chain saws. Question... I have an older Stihl 020AVP. 1/4" pitch .050 80 drive links. That chain is getting harder to find and wonder if you are aware of a replacement setup to go to 3/8" chain? Guessing I need a new drive sprocket, maybe an oiler drive gear??? and bar also?? Thank you!
Evidently he just gave you the middle finger lol Hopefully, after all this time, you've found the info you were looking for without having to rely on this guy.
Do you think that going with a heavier gauge chain, like you did here, will be too much on the engine? I have a MS 180c and I am not happy with the chain that came on the saw. I feel like it dulled to quickly so I am looking to upgrade chain to something more aggressive or heavier. I like what you did here.
just curious, do you have to go to the 14" with the larger chain or was that just your choice? I have both an MS170 and MS250 so there is a huge difference in cutting mostly due to the chains...I think. I asked about the 14" vs 16" because I may make the change on my 170. Cheers from NB
Wonder why they put the .043 gauge bar and chain on these little saws.I guess it's cheaper for Stihl. Wondering if the lighter gauge system is easier for the motor to pull.What is on the expensive top handle arborist saws... I could look this up I know. Thanks excellent tutorial on how to change out bar and chain
Very good idea, but why didnt you go with a new 16 inch bar instead of the 14 inch bar? I have the exact same saw, and would like to keep the bar the same length, and think there is plenty of horsepower to carry the heavier chain on a 16 inch bar. Also, when the chain is off, it is a perfect time to grease the nose bar sprocket real good. Thanks.
I have been watching you videos I'm thinking of changing the two nuts system to a quick change set but not sure how to remove the old bolts for the single bolt for the quick change system thank you for time and advice
Great vid - I would only add it's worth checking the drive sprocket when you change the bar and chain as a worn drive sprocket will cause running problems with the new bar and chain.
I did the same thing with my 170. I used a 16" bar and chain with .063 gauge. Works real well. I think the 170/180 is an underrated saw meaning it has more power than is advertised.
*I put this same bar on my 1973 stihl 015 and it cuts much faster and better than the old 1/4 043 stock bar and chain. I had to change the spur gear and oil pump gear to 3/8 but it was well worth it. Thanks for all your awesome VIDS.*
Great video as usual. Just did this to my MS170 with an Oregon set with a second saw getting a 16" Stihl set. For your followers, the use of the word gauge is misleading by the saw people. It is not like wire gauge or sheet metal gauge. It is the actual thickness of the web in inches, like 0.040" 0.050" and 0.063" Easy to measure with calipers or micrometer.
I was thinking of going 18" on the second saw but even with the 14", the saw prefers dry wood and straight cuts. But I still love it. The important thing for the small engine is to let the RPMs rev up and don't bog down the engine with your cutting pressure.
Very popular saw among homeowners. Most reviews and maintenance videos is focusing on large, commercial machines.
Thank you for taking time and clear walk-thru this one. Cheers!
Very well done, very informative and clear. I have a Farm Boss 290, and since I am in my mid 70's, it's getting to be too much for me. I wanted the MS 170 or MS 180, but I wanted a more robust bar and chain. Your video here, IS just the thing I'm looking for. Thank you.
I did this conversion today. I am very happy with my Stihl 180 now. It definitely bites better now. Thanks
Man oh man, how I wish I had come across this video earlier as I JUST replaced the bar and chain on my MS170. I have worn out so many of the tiny chains it's ridiculous! If only I'd had this info earlier I'd have installed the more robust bar and chain. Thanks a ton for the info! Next Time!
You feel like the MS170 handles this upgrade well?
Hi , thank you for the video . I have a ms180c that was due for a new bar , I upgraded to the heavier bar and chain and couldn't be happier , the heavier chain just does not wear out nearly as quickly . I also was having troubles with the easy start system so I bought a pre assembled side cover rope start for the ms170 and it was a 5 minute bolt on and requires no extra effort to pull since the engine is so small . I also replaced the chain adjustment with the side cover / bolts and adjuster from a ms170 . All the parts are on amazon for little money and its been a much more pleasant saw to use . Thank you for your video and reader comments .
Good video, I have a ms 170 that came with the .043 chain and 14 inch bar. After watching this I replaced with a .050 16 inch bar and chain. Was working on a ash with a 24 inch dia. trunk had no problem plowing through no bogging and throwing nice big chips. The saw is like a different saw well worth the $60.00 I spent at the Stihl dealer and everything was in stock. Highly recommend thanks donyboy 73
I’m going to do this with my 180c when this chain wears out it since the guide bar has a healthy sized valley on both sides I’ll be happy as long as the chains last longer
I just upgraded my Stihl MS170 to the larger gauge (0.050). I also noticed my old Echo 310 already had large gauge (0.050) chain. I love it. Thank you for your help.
Yes it will. Same sprocket
I just bought a ms170 today from my stihl dealer because they are on sale and a great price for them.
I put a 14" bar on as well and 50 gauge chain. I have seen those 43 gauge chains get banged up quick and not last long on friends saws.
Between your video Don and what I seen with my own eyes from friends it was a no brainer!
I am looking forward to limbing with it for firewood and taking it on hunting/camping trips as well.
Great videos Don, as always!
I followed your instructions in order to replace the chain on my Stihl saw. Everything proceeded smoothly -- no problems. Thanks much for the clear, detailed instructions.
Just did this upgrade Dony and wow, what a difference it makes! A totally better saw and easier to get into some tight spaces. Thanks Dony!
Thanks for this informative video. I bought a brand new MS180 and had the dealership provide me with this upgrade and it actually saved me $30aud ($319aud total), plus I didn’t have to wait until the 16” bar and 0.043 Picco chain were in need of replacement to enjoy the benefit of the upgrade.
one of the best technical instructors out there. my ms180 is getting harder to start but works really well when it gets going. luckily it only comes out a few times a year otherwise i'd have no shoulder left!!
Did the change but went with 16" bar. Working cool!
If you can sharpen a chain properly, You will get a sharper chain than comes out of the box with just a few minutes with a proper round file and a few light passes with a flat file on the rakers. I took my bar off to have a look and it suffered almost every issue you described just to a lesser degree. Thank you for a most informative and well crafted video as always!
Just bought this upgrade. I love my 2 018c’s. I use them for 75% of my chain saw needs. I’m going to put this bar and chain on one of them and keep the other stock for trimming.
Excellent video. Straight to the point, cleat & concise. As an instructor, you rock!
I just did this on my ms180 and it works great. I was worried the saw wouldn't have enough power to run it, but so far so good. Thanks, I enjoy your videos. You're a good teacher.
Don, I learned something that is applicable to this video. The bar and chain on an ms 241 are the same as on a 180C with one exception. The 241 uses a .050 gauge chain, instead of an .043 gauge chain. Both are 16 inch, 3/8P chains. Instead of dropping down to a 14 inch bar, you can use the 16 inch bar for the 241. I have not installed the bar and chain off my 241 on my 180 but I am sure it will work. I would have already done it but my 180 has that easy adjust crap on it, which I hate. I can adjust a side adjust a lot faster than that easy adjust crap. Another reason I traded in my ms 181cbe when I got my new 241, which I love.
You might want to do a video on converting the easy start and adjust saws to normal start and side adjust. The only redeeming features these saws have is the primer bulb and I always forgot to press , anyway.
I love the way that saw starts, and runs, and wish all of mine ran that good. I will remember the difference between the two bars, and chains you took off, and put on the saw.
Thorough explanation. To protect your fingers/hand from being cut should the chain jamb when rotating the chain by hand, only move the chain in the direction of travel not back and forth as was demonstrated in the video. Excessively worn sprockets or burrs on the drive links after a chain derailing are notorious for causing the chain to jamb.
Thanks Don, I have the 170 and I had written in that it wasn't starting after only just under 2 years of little use. Did pull the carb, screen was 2/3rds clogged with dirt from an old gas can,,, my fault. cleaned thoroughly and just reinstalled same gaskets and diaphragm s,,, runs good. Your videos are a definite incentive. Thanks so much,,, ✌
you're welcome, if you don't use it much maybe you should use STIHL moto-mix
Thanks, as a matter of fact I did buy some premix at Home Depot that also has something in it that cleans an ailing engine for the cs 300 I have. I've used additive s in my bikes but this is formulated for 2 strokes. What do you think of premixed gas and additives? Thanks for the advice too. Cept for price it is a nice idea.
Some mention of increased risk of chain kickback seems appropriate. The bar and chain conversion creates a much more aggressive bite with a similar increase in chain kick back injury potential. No free lunch. Know what you are up to when you convert.
Non chainsaw people that can't cope with a more aggressive chain on a tiny chainsaw won't be the ones switching out bars and chains.
Thanks for your video. I did not need it for the bar. Just for the old bar and new chain. It had been awhile since I used the saw so I forgot the steps for the re-install. Your video helped out a lot. Again.. thanks.
My saw is 170C - C for Comfort and low vibration - great for old ladies. It's a lousy chain and I'll be converting mine to .050". Thanks for this, glad I didn't buy a replacement original chain.
This is just what I was looking for! I was getting ready to throw my new 170 out the window. The stock “baby” bar and chain bind up all the time. I’m sure this also has to do with the the lack of power the saw has but I’m gonna try this upgrade.
Brilliant I have just bought a new MS181 and had no idea how to fit the chain tensioner. Your video sorted that and was perfect visuals, voice over and explanation. Thank you
I have 1,3 mm chain right out of the box in my ms 180, bought in Europe this year, and I ofcouse bought full chisel chain which makes huge difference if you cut fresh, clean wood and you are able to sharpen it properly
That’s exactly what I did on my ms180, changed to a 50 gauge chain and 12” bar
Excellent presentation. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. You are saving a lot of new chainsaw owners a lot of time and frustration.
Thanks very much for the info. My MS 180 is a year old so when the bar / chain is worn, I'll be going with the higher gauge. Regards - Simon / Australia
Dony, I recently did this upgrade and it worked very well. I just wanted to thank you. My dealer even had the parts in stock. A bit pricey but now I have a nice little saw.
it's definitely a good upgrade Jim
Your teaching abilities are outstanding. Very straight forward and easy to understand. Thank you.
Love the tool-less chain tensioners. Have one on the poulan pro I have and makes quick adjustments in the Field so much easier. Doesn't seem to make a difference in performance or reliability either.
Tank you nice video! If you want to give the ms 170 and ms 180 more power and better tuning you can replace the single adjust screw stock carburetor with the WT-215 carburetor that fits on the ms 210-250 series! It has a H and L screw adjusting carb for better tuning! Then you can open up the muffler better so it can breath easier with more power! (Look up muffler mod for the ms-170 or me 180) (you can order the upgraded carb for around $10.00) 👀😎
Were can you get the 215 carb? Direct bolt on with 170 linkage and all?
Go to “Aboristsite.com” and search for “MS180 Adjustable Carb” (will be the same for the ms170)
Look up WT-215 carb on eBay or Amazon!
The cheaper carbs work!
The newer ms170 throttle lingage bends the opposite way on one end than the older 017’s, which makes it a bit tricky trying to hook up to the wt-215 carb. I ordered the older 017 throttle linkage where both ends bend the same way and it much easier to hook it up to the throttle trigger and the new carb! (The new carb has a hole whereas the ms170 stock carb has a slot on the lever that the linkage hooks up to, making it easier!)
You also have to drill new holes in the case for the adjustment screws!
But you’ll be able to give it a proper tune and a muffler mod if you want. (They run lean stock) And you can also advance the timing a tad to give it more power as well!
Highly recommend to watch videos on “tuning in the wood!” on that site as well! 😎
I have a 170 that i got at a stihl dealer. They did the change when i my saw. now that's all i use 14 in bar and 50 gauge chain. full chiesl chain
great info, will change my bar with a 16 inch 1.3mm instead of 1.1mm . thank you !
I just did this, and all I have to say is OUTSTANDING!!!!
Great info. I made the change and without question the saw cuts much better.
thank you for posting this. I was considering the same idea after my local stihl dealer no longer carries. 043 chains. luckily they were able to make one on site.
I've gotta do this to my 2020 ms180. It has that self adjusting carb and man when it gets on the pipe its a freak vs some of the videos I've seen on RUclips. I run 93 octane and motul 800 2t premix. I just bought a stock replacement chain but next run doing the .50 upgrade. Thanks!
I put a Stihl 16 inch .050 gage bar and chain on my ms181 CBE this week. That .043 gage chain is useless. It also loves to catch between the sprocket washer and circlip when I try to put the bar back on. The .050 chain does not have this same problem. I also got rid of that flimsy tapered bar that came on my 181 and got a parallel sided Stihlrollamatic bar. It works fine.
Thanks so much, this really helped. My screw was very loose on the black teeth part.
Dony I like the whey you are walk us thru. No b.s. Pure knowledge! Thank you! You the only one so far I find honesty. God bless you.
yes thanks, I don't bullshit my through lol
This guy saved my day , I thought I’d never put mine back together. Automatic subscriber
Nicely done! Ordered my conversion pieces while I watched. It was good timing for me. Down to two ratty chains that needed replacing anyway. Thanks!
The 018 is fitted as standard with a 050 thou bar and chain. I also like to give a new or cleaned bar and chain a squirt of oil before running since it takes the oiler a while to get oil to it.
You saved my husband's beloved Stihl!!!!! Thank you!!!!!!!!
You're welcome!!
Beef up the wimpy chain and shorten the bar, very good idea. Thanks.
Probably the best instructional videos I have ever watched.. well done..👍👍
Absolutely, picked one of these machines up today and will definitely make this upgrade to it.
Nice. Thank you. My small saw is going to have a new bar and chain now. Smiling, George.
Thank you very much. A great help re the little nut, it fell out of the bar. I was looking for a second screw for a bar. Have you a video for sharpening the chain with the stihl gadget?
Did this to my ms181 and it works well.Cheers for the advice.
Thank you. Great video. Clear, concise explanation, demonstration. I have an MS 180 c. Is a Great small saw, that can do a lot.
Very good guide but does the same pally to the ms 171 c I watch your video all the time gives me conveyance with my chainsaws thank you.
Very good video D boy. I have the 170 and only a year into ownership and maybe two uses, it won't start. Gonna check my fuel hose, doesn't seem to be getting fuel. Guess thats another video. Thanks so much.
What a great video! I ended up watching it several times. All the info is here and it is very well presented and clear, even for newbies like me. Very useful information. Thanks a lot!
Great info…easy to understand, clear and precise.
Thanks for your effort in explaining, right on!
Thank you again. I did that job on my ms171, only I used 16" bar and chain, hopefully it's not going to be to much for the engine...?
no it won't
This is an EXCELLENT video. First time changing chain. It was a lil intimidating!😊 thanks so much for making it MUCH simpler to understand.
I like the Echo cap you are wearing while you are working on a Stihl chainsaw.
Brían Scott Du Bois : echo that's the other 4 letter word for shit right?
@@joelbelden9361 get pissy much
Almost 10 years on from when you made it, and it's still relevant today. Thanks, helped me greatly.
Great to hear!
I bought a new 171 from my local ranch supply. They suggested your upgrade to the 50 ga chain and shorter bar. The upgrade was included at no charge. (I had not seen this video). What a great suggestion. Thanks. Saw works great!
I did the same thing you did on my ms 181 CBE. I put a brand new 16 inch Stihl bar and chain. The tapered bar that was on my 181 was flimsy and would bend and vibrate under load. I ordered a new sprocket, bearing and clutch from eBay. The bearing and clutch were ok but they sent me a seven tooth spur sprocket which is not correct for the 181 with 3/8 LP chain. It uses a 6 tooth spur sprocket
Don, No matter how tight I tighten the bar nuts on my Stihl 034 the bar will still move. I have tried everything to fix this but I still cannot get the bar to tighten properly. The bar and chain are new and are exact replacements. Thank You.
+canadaeast check condition of clutch cover on the inside
Don, lots of good stuff! A guy just gave me 2 MS 180's to use as parts - but with a little work and a few of your videos I got one of them running - thanks! They had no bar or chain, so yesterday I picked them up from my dealer, then watched your upgrade - but at the end I noticed the part numbers did not match the ones you gave out. Your video is from 8 years ago, so maybe the numbers have changed. I wanted to test the saw out today, but am not very familiar with bars & chains - so was hoping you had time to tell me "go with them" or "you've got the wrong part". The bar is 3005 000 4813, the chain is 3613 005 0055. If you can help, great, but either way, thanks for your video work! Tom
not sure but dealer should have given you proper bars and chain
Hey! New subscriber here...great channel you got here, great "how to´s " and really easy to follow how you do things. I have two MS 180´s and have changed from 14", .043 bar and chain which was on both saws to 16", .050 on one saw and 16", .043 on the other. Both works great, the one with the .050 maybe "bogging" out a little bit sooner than the one with .043, but that can just be how I run it. Thanks for the great tips about small engines, it has been very helpful :)
TheNorthener Yeah I commented on the fact that if you increase the gage size you either need to decrease the bar length, not extend it. These less expensive saws are probably engineered to run at peak performance with all parts stock. Iffin you create more drag by increasing chain bulk and cut, you should downgrade the length to keep engine doing it's best to perform well. Most tools are designed to only do with what they are sold with, unless you make improvements in engine output. They will run, but like you said, bog easier, wear out faster.
TheNorthener that's exactly what i was going to say they put that little chain on it so they can get away with that little engine the big chain will work but just won't have much power
TheNorthener, with that old tore up chain he had on the saw it's hardly possible to believe he was cutting any wood. The bar had overheated and discolored so all the hardness temper was removed and that bar would wear very quickly if he just replaced the chain.
Ya you make everything look so easy. Thanks for sharing your insights and knowledge Don.
DonyBoy, I understand what your saying. I have found that the speed of the saw slows down.. not to compensate for the slow down of the saw, you must replace the sprocket to a faster sprocket. I don't know the numbers. Or remember where to get them. I will try to get that info for you.. I did agree with the previous comment on speed.. .. and the facts that you can speed up any chain with a different sprocket. . Note.. this is a aftermarket parts purchase. . "Don't tell ANYONE ELSE" :-) Please update the video when u can with the .050 chain and different sprocket. . Good Videos. Thanks you
PS.. It is my opinion that speed Sprocket works very well. . I must say some say that it changed the power of the saw.. I find that by bringing up the speed in my chain, I gain a noticeable faster cut.. it seems to slow done in the BIG hardwood.. it a smaller saw.. and I'm alway going to my 026. Or bigger when I go up In log size.. so the small saw for trimming... is incredibly fast!
Hi, Donyboy, thanks for your excellent videos. I have a Stihl MS 261 which came with a 20" bar, .325 pitch and .063 gauge. I want to install a 24" bar. From what I can tell (correct me if I'm wrong) for a 24" bar I have to go to a .375" pitch. Will I need a different drive sprocket? I need the 24" bar to Alaska mill a tree - kind of a one time project. What are the Stihl part numbers I would need for the bar, sprocket, and chain? I thinkI would prefer a less aggressive chain rather than full chisel. Thanks and let me know if there is a way to help support your channel.
If I was to buy a 180 then eventually perform this upgrade when the original 0.43 is warn, what size filing kit would you recommend. Would a file that suits 0.43 also be compatible with 0.50, or would you need to get separate files? I would not doubt buy a filing kit when purchasing the saw so would like to know if I can get one that suits both gauges. Keep up the great work, very clear and informative videos.
Great video! I appreciate you taking the time to go into detail & explain how & why. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. Upgraded my MS 180C today.
Well done Donny, a Comprehensive step by step Video. Thank you.
Great video! You seem fairly knowledgeable about chain saws. Question... I have an older Stihl 020AVP. 1/4" pitch .050 80 drive links. That chain is getting harder to find and wonder if you are aware of a replacement setup to go to 3/8" chain? Guessing I need a new drive sprocket, maybe an oiler drive gear??? and bar also?? Thank you!
Hi Don, would you know the chain and bar part numbers for a 16" stihl ms 170? Thank you
Evidently he just gave you the middle finger lol
Hopefully, after all this time, you've found the info you were looking for without having to rely on this guy.
Thanks for useful lession!! Netx chain will be the stronger one. Tumbs up also for your way to explain!
Thank you for that upgrade that I will be doing to my ms180.
if you upgrade exactly as I did it works perfectly and it's a much better chain
Thanks for the PNs.
Hi Don. You do very good easy to follow videos. I like how you take time to explain the process’ in detail. Regards from Australia 🇦🇺
I wonder how many times I should watch this before i get it? :) Many thanks.
Can’t wait to do this! Thank you!
Do you think that going with a heavier gauge chain, like you did here, will be too much on the engine? I have a MS 180c and I am not happy with the chain that came on the saw. I feel like it dulled to quickly so I am looking to upgrade chain to something more aggressive or heavier. I like what you did here.
just curious, do you have to go to the 14" with the larger chain or was that just your choice?
I have both an MS170 and MS250 so there is a huge difference in cutting mostly due to the chains...I think.
I asked about the 14" vs 16" because I may make the change on my 170.
Cheers from NB
you have probably heard of the chains used to cut cement products . great mother of pearl are those pricey!!
Wonder why they put the .043 gauge bar and chain on these little saws.I guess it's cheaper for Stihl. Wondering if the lighter gauge system is easier for the motor to pull.What is on the expensive top handle arborist saws... I could look this up I know. Thanks excellent tutorial on how to change out bar and chain
Thanks for the part numbers, looks a great upgrade I have a MS180
i always learn something from your videos. thank you so much for posting them.
thanks for watching
Once again Dony, a well illustrated and very informative video. I must do tis to my ms170, thanks mate.
Cheers from Down Under
Glad to help
Very good idea, but why didnt you go with a new 16 inch bar instead of the 14 inch bar? I have the exact same saw, and would like to keep the bar the same length, and think there is plenty of horsepower to carry the heavier chain on a 16 inch bar. Also, when the chain is off, it is a perfect time to grease the nose bar sprocket real good. Thanks.
I have been watching you videos I'm thinking of changing the two nuts system to a quick change set but not sure how to remove the old bolts for the single bolt for the quick change system thank you for time and advice
The bigger tipped bars seem to plunge alot better too!!
your videos are great! I have broke some 1.1mm chains
Great vid - I would only add it's worth checking the drive sprocket when you change the bar and chain as a worn drive sprocket will cause running problems with the new bar and chain.
excellent info well presented clear and concise
many thanks Dave