In the USA, we have to source metric all the time and it costs about the same, so no big deal if you stick to metric. Most 3d printers are only metric.
Cheers, I wasn't sure, I only have what I see on youtube to go off. Fortunately M6 is only 0.013" smaller than 1/4" so I've designed it to work for both easily enough (though 1/4 maaay break the part when using the bolt to cut threads (depending on what you print it out of) so either use a tap or just heat the bolt a bit with a lighter first).
These kinds of projects that can be easily modified to suit the end user (and replace a costly industry solution that is costly precisely because it is niche) are what actually fulfill the promise of 3-D printing tech. Well done!
Cheap and accessible weighted base = "Tub and lid" style users can fill with concrete. You can still jam a block of steel in there if you have one, but it makes it highly adaptable to user circumstance. Gravel/plater/loose metal etc, it just has to be heavy.
Good call, you're right. I thought 'steel' because I have draws of steel offcuts and such but yeah, just a cavity to fill with whatever (gravel, sand, broken drill bits...) would be more widely suited than a pocket for steel. Adding that to my notes, thanks.
Cheers, I genuinely appreciate it :) As for the filament: My go-to is black PETG-CF but purple PETG-CF was on special and purple and black go together so well I stocked up on both. I'm tempted to start printing in hot pink just to annoy the people who can't handle my nail polish though 😅
Thanks for the work you've been putting in on this. I am considering printing something like this for semi-automated micro photogrammetry, so this will be very helpful for me.
Ah then you definitely need to check out this project from @swannschilling474, fully motorised and software integrated SPM, print files already available ruclips.net/video/vNV2LetkfEg/видео.html
I'm fortunate enough to have a bambu X1 carbon that was purchased as a business expense (before that business died, couldn't afford to buy one now though, long story 🙃), but I used to be an engineer working in the industrial 3D printing field so I feel qualified to say that any modern (ie less than 5 years old) consumer 3D printer can produce prints of a similar quality but they may need a little tuning or some minor upgrades first. I had an ender 5 that could print a similar quality to what I'm showing in the video, for example. That said, I got the X1 because I was tired of tinkering with 3d printers (I was making them back in the reprap days) and wanted a tool just that worked without any messing about (X1 still needed some 3d printed mods though, it's not perfect) and was faster. If you're trying to improve the quality of your 3D prints I recommend asking on a forum/subreddit, especially if there's one for your make of printer, as they'll be able to give you much more specific and useful advice. That said, print quality issues generally fall into one of three things: - Motion issues: belts loose, linear guides loose (eg v-wheels on some printers), bolts loose, things misaligned and binding, or bent leadscrews (eg 'z wobble'), and ringing artefacts - Tuning issues: acceleration too high, print settings (temperature, speeds, etc), lots of possibilities in this category, I usually start with a manufacturer default profile and filament as a baseline sanity check - Extrusion issues: Extruders are the most critical component and a bad one can be the cause of all the issues. Ditto with bad quality filament, avoid ultra cheap filament completely. You don't have to buy expensive brands, just get reputable brands that you see a lot of people using (I think esun is cheap-good, haven't used it myself); cheap filament causes all sorts of issues like varied extrusion width, clogging, etc etc. So does wet filament, depending on the filament type.
Hey could you power you 360 rotator rig with 3 capstan drives, and use 3 of the rotator rigs, to drive a wheel-like robotic leg, which has a circular linear bearing with tuneable friction, and linear motors, so that we can have a little guy with wheel feet that can work as wheels or as legs with tuneable slippage for speed and balance adjustments?
I've just come across your SPM videos and wondered whether you'd considered using flexures in place of bearings in the SPM. Flexures - especially 3-d printed ones - may not achieve the angular movement you require, but if they do, they offer great precision at little to no cost. If you're not familiar with flexures and compliant mechanisms, here's a good primer... ruclips.net/video/97t7Xj_iBv0/видео.htmlsi=vhO-7wFUCskVemAe Thanks for all the effort you're putting in: not just on the design and build, but documenting it all so clearly to share with the rest of us. Oh, and congratulations on the chip-free nail polish! That's above and beyond.
It'll be great if the SPM design validates, I'm hoping to make one of them for my sister's boyfriend. He does a lot of miniature painting, and I think it will be useful for that. Aaand at 9:54 you tell us other people have mentioned that already. Probably not as silly of an idea as I was afraid, then. Though it might be a bit of a challenge to reliably paint something without bumping into the arms. Still, with such cheap parts, trying it out doesn't hurt.
Yep, I'll make all 3D printable designs available for everyone, additionally I'll release the design files (step or f3d) so people can modify it easily to suit their needs. The bearings I'm waiting on got delayed in the post but as soon as I've validated the new design it'll be up for everyone to use
As in the original, black, wavy armed one? Don't worry, design and print files for that will be up soon (still waiting on the bearings, will validate revised design of the black one and upload soon)
Update 25/06: Bearings got delayed in the post, as soon as I validated the new design I'll upload the files for everyone, sorry for the delay :)
Are the standard polar manipulator files available yet?
thank you for letting us know :)
In the USA, we have to source metric all the time and it costs about the same, so no big deal if you stick to metric. Most 3d printers are only metric.
Cheers, I wasn't sure, I only have what I see on youtube to go off. Fortunately M6 is only 0.013" smaller than 1/4" so I've designed it to work for both easily enough (though 1/4 maaay break the part when using the bolt to cut threads (depending on what you print it out of) so either use a tap or just heat the bolt a bit with a lighter first).
I think he means like you can can adjust the stl to fit your needs
These kinds of projects that can be easily modified to suit the end user (and replace a costly industry solution that is costly precisely because it is niche) are what actually fulfill the promise of 3-D printing tech. Well done!
Has there been any updates on the 3D print version?
Fantastic. Really great work. Can't wait to see what comes of this.
Man you just gotta love stuff like this!
Cheap and accessible weighted base = "Tub and lid" style users can fill with concrete.
You can still jam a block of steel in there if you have one, but it makes it highly adaptable to user circumstance. Gravel/plater/loose metal etc, it just has to be heavy.
Good call, you're right. I thought 'steel' because I have draws of steel offcuts and such but yeah, just a cavity to fill with whatever (gravel, sand, broken drill bits...) would be more widely suited than a pocket for steel. Adding that to my notes, thanks.
I would argue for 3 strong magnets and a proper steel base.
i love the compact new design. excited to see the model you release. i am hoping to machine one of these on my lathe in the future
Which one are you going to make on the lathe? If it's the SPM I'd love to see how you do the arms (not saying you can't, just damn curious how :) )
💥 This rocks. Very talented work. I think I'd better order some purple filament. 😂
Cheers, I genuinely appreciate it :)
As for the filament: My go-to is black PETG-CF but purple PETG-CF was on special and purple and black go together so well I stocked up on both. I'm tempted to start printing in hot pink just to annoy the people who can't handle my nail polish though 😅
Cant wait for the release
Yeah, apologies for the delay, life's been a bit complex lately but I'll finish the design and upload soon
Thanks for the improved version! Very nice!
Thanks for the work you've been putting in on this. I am considering printing something like this for semi-automated micro photogrammetry, so this will be very helpful for me.
Ah then you definitely need to check out this project from @swannschilling474, fully motorised and software integrated SPM, print files already available ruclips.net/video/vNV2LetkfEg/видео.html
I bet this youtuber will have a very successful channel. Keep up the good work!
You are really talented.
Cheers, I genuinely appreciate it :)
Nice man! Such a cool project:)
1/4-20 should be available everywhere because it's the standard for photographic equipment mounts
Keep the updates coming, looking good!
Brilliant!
The prints Look awesome! Like it very much. What 3d-printer do you use?
I'm fortunate enough to have a bambu X1 carbon that was purchased as a business expense (before that business died, couldn't afford to buy one now though, long story 🙃), but I used to be an engineer working in the industrial 3D printing field so I feel qualified to say that any modern (ie less than 5 years old) consumer 3D printer can produce prints of a similar quality but they may need a little tuning or some minor upgrades first. I had an ender 5 that could print a similar quality to what I'm showing in the video, for example.
That said, I got the X1 because I was tired of tinkering with 3d printers (I was making them back in the reprap days) and wanted a tool just that worked without any messing about (X1 still needed some 3d printed mods though, it's not perfect) and was faster.
If you're trying to improve the quality of your 3D prints I recommend asking on a forum/subreddit, especially if there's one for your make of printer, as they'll be able to give you much more specific and useful advice.
That said, print quality issues generally fall into one of three things:
- Motion issues: belts loose, linear guides loose (eg v-wheels on some printers), bolts loose, things misaligned and binding, or bent leadscrews (eg 'z wobble'), and ringing artefacts
- Tuning issues: acceleration too high, print settings (temperature, speeds, etc), lots of possibilities in this category, I usually start with a manufacturer default profile and filament as a baseline sanity check
- Extrusion issues: Extruders are the most critical component and a bad one can be the cause of all the issues. Ditto with bad quality filament, avoid ultra cheap filament completely. You don't have to buy expensive brands, just get reputable brands that you see a lot of people using (I think esun is cheap-good, haven't used it myself); cheap filament causes all sorts of issues like varied extrusion width, clogging, etc etc. So does wet filament, depending on the filament type.
Hey could you power you 360 rotator rig with 3 capstan drives, and use 3 of the rotator rigs, to drive a wheel-like robotic leg, which has a circular linear bearing with tuneable friction, and linear motors, so that we can have a little guy with wheel feet that can work as wheels or as legs with tuneable slippage for speed and balance adjustments?
I uhhh think I need a diagram 😅
Thanks
I've just come across your SPM videos and wondered whether you'd considered using flexures in place of bearings in the SPM. Flexures - especially 3-d printed ones - may not achieve the angular movement you require, but if they do, they offer great precision at little to no cost.
If you're not familiar with flexures and compliant mechanisms, here's a good primer...
ruclips.net/video/97t7Xj_iBv0/видео.htmlsi=vhO-7wFUCskVemAe
Thanks for all the effort you're putting in: not just on the design and build, but documenting it all so clearly to share with the rest of us. Oh, and congratulations on the chip-free nail polish! That's above and beyond.
It'll be great if the SPM design validates, I'm hoping to make one of them for my sister's boyfriend. He does a lot of miniature painting, and I think it will be useful for that. Aaand at 9:54 you tell us other people have mentioned that already. Probably not as silly of an idea as I was afraid, then.
Though it might be a bit of a challenge to reliably paint something without bumping into the arms. Still, with such cheap parts, trying it out doesn't hurt.
What infill density do you use?
will you eventually post it on printables or similar?
Yep, I'll make all 3D printable designs available for everyone, additionally I'll release the design files (step or f3d) so people can modify it easily to suit their needs. The bearings I'm waiting on got delayed in the post but as soon as I've validated the new design it'll be up for everyone to use
Great!!
I don't know how to tell you this but I think you spilled some nail polish on your nails mate
After I manipulate my spheres I sniff my fingers.
The previous one was better
As in the original, black, wavy armed one? Don't worry, design and print files for that will be up soon (still waiting on the bearings, will validate revised design of the black one and upload soon)
You paint your nails to protect your nails from welding flash burn?