Thanks Fritz, awesome video! Had to do mine today; For anyone who runs into issues pairing the two sides; I found that turning the car on, switching to Sport mode, and then turning the car off, helps with the angle of the actuator, once I did the clip slid in no problem and it was easier to line up.
To anyone having trouble aligning the clip… do not remove the actuator loosen the bolts to where you have room to put the clip in the valve side, there will be tension on the clip but it’s not seated properly. Open your valves with sport mode or BimmerLink and the clip will snap right into place as the actuator turns.
THANK YOU! Just road-tripped for the holidays & didn't hear anything until I slowed down to pull into a gas station right at the end of the trip. Once I turned the radio down I heard that god-awful sound & panicked. First thing I found today was your vid, went out & crawled under the X5M & sure enough, the passenger side actuator is missing about two-thirds of its clip. Really surprised that part is so universal across a ton of models (including mine) so once again, Fritz to the rescue. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! I'm glad you got it fixed. I'm starting to think that since this part is used across so many chassis, maybe it doesn't fit as well on the cars it wasn't originally designed for. Hope you enjoyed your trip!
@@FritzRamos OK not the "easy 5 minute fix" on the F85 as yours. Ironically the much larger X5M has way less room to work with than yours, barely enough room for a shallow socket over a couple of the bolts & can just manage to get a couple of fingers in to maneuver around but not very well. Major pain! Also the actuator bracket on mine has a metal plate that yours doesn't & the fixing bow actually goes around either side of it, giving it an even greater level of difficulty, especially visually. Because it's so hard to see what I'm doing on mine I can't seem to line up the vale & actuator properly. Once I get the bow in there onto the valve & replace the actuator, I can't get the 2 to align parallel no matter which way or how far I spin the valve. I'm leaning towards a faulty actuator that might be stuck in a bad position & no longer working (which may have lead to the bow breaking in the 1st place).
I have been scratching my head every morning trying to figure where this rattle was coming from, garages said heatshield trouble, some even said there is rust in the exhaust. Thank you so much for an easy fix my man.
Thanks to your video it took me about 10min to swap the bow out.. Some tips... A small rachet helps a lot here. with it the bolts are easy to remove. You do not really need to disconnect the wire but it makes taking the bolts off easier. You will need a right angled pick tool to push down on the clip that holds the wire. Took me about a minute to aim it in right but once in it came off easy, you just have to pull. I found it is easier to put the new bow on if you just gently stretch it out a bit, this way it locks into place easily when you put the actuator back on. One last thing... CHECK YOUR EXHAUST TIPS. I wound up replacing the bow for no reason. In the end it turned out that there were a few tiny rocks inside the exhaust tip. When ever the exhaust pipe would vibrate it caused the stones to bounce around, and this is what was making my clanking sound.
Thanks bud. Just fixed my 2016 428i. I did have trouble getting the pin in to the groove on the both side as the actuator groove was few angle more twisted than the exhaust side which means it was not going to be a straight fit. I put back the actuator, fit the pin on the exhaust side and cramped the other side of the pin on the actuator so that pin is just lying on it. Then I started the car, put it in sport mode and did a little drive up and down my driveway and the pin on the actuator side fell in place (I think when actuator was activated, the motor twisted and the groove aligned)
I had the rattle and replaced the clip, about a month later the rattle was back. I ended up disconnecting it, protecting the connector and zip tying it safely. Not the most elegant solution but it works.
@@FritzRamos I didn't investigate further, happy with the full exhaust note at start up. Not sure if I'd have to hook it back up when I get the Smog check
Thanks sooooooooooo much! This was the problem on my car too! I happened to find your video and the noise was exactly the same. Looked under the car and voila! Broken clip!
I have to admit, it looks much easier in the video than it was for me, mostly because I could not find a way to see it clearly as I was trying to seat the actuator; my view from underneath just wasn't as good as this video. But after watching a few more times, I figured out how to hold the clip in place with the back of my thumb, while feeling the initial alignment to the loose actuator; then it was the force to guide it into the clip's spring-load to finish seating the actuator - and BINGO: I got it! Absolutely awesome. What angers me is when I first got my 335xi I actually took it to the dealer because the muffler rattle really didn't sound right; that rattle sounds horrible to be clear. They totally missed it, and said it was normal; just the performance exhaust. So I've been driving with that rattle for over year. Wahoo to you!
I'll add that I am in Houston and the closest BMW dealership to me is one I refuse to go to because they are dishonest. So I travel 40 minutes away to another BMW dealership that has honest and integrous staff; no regrets. Not all BMW dealerships are the same.
My Tips: - Use pliers to pinch the clip into place - If your clip doesn't align with the actuator, try turning the car on, and engaging the various drive modes until it does. My actuator was a little bit out of the range of rotation of the valve pin, but aligned once I turned it to sport mode. - This is A LOT easier if you jack your car up even 10cm so you have room to move your arms. - Get a headlamp, or bright torch I did not need to remove or even loosen the bolts, or unclip the electronics.
If you are someone who doesn’t have access to tool, you can install it by pushing in with your thumb, once you get to the point where it’s wedged in but not lined up, start your car and it will fall into place!
You don't have to loosen the actuater at all. Use small cable tie to bring the two ends of the clip together. Now you can slip the pin in place. (Put the looped side of the pin on the actuator side). As soon as grooves are aligned and clip semi in place then snip the cable tie. It will spring into place. This is much easier than loosening the actuator.
Thank you for this video I lack tools and skills for most installs and I was able to finesse it in by hand and with a flat head screwdriver using your video, thanks so much
I did a stainless steel muffler and dual tips and I had to move the actuator to the passenger side, I literally fight to mount the clip and the actuator for about 2 hours, awesome tip
@@FritzRamos I put a custom one based on the valvetronic, but I made from the downpipe all the way to the back. I reuse the actuator so it's straight if in sport or it goes to the resonator if closed(comfort)
For reference for anyone not working on it themselves, it cost me $190 ($20 parts, $170 labor) at dealer to replace my broken exhaust clip 🤷🏿♂️ added to the oil change and called it a day
Awesome! Might have save some trying to buy a new exhaust. My car sounds exactly like that and I found a tiny part of that clip on the ground when I was checking things out. Going to give this a shot. Thanks man!
Just had this happen to my 235, in my case the clip had broken in half and part of it had hung on and was rattling around on the actuator. Pulled it off with just my hands (it was pretty loose already) and the rattle went away. I actually like the sound of the exhaust with the valve always open, so I’ll probably keep it that way for a while
MUCHAS gracias Fritz, se resolvio el problema haciendo la pieza con un alambre galvanizado que tenia en casa........te lo agradezco bastante por compartir tus conocimientos.
My car does this intermittently during cold start up, it goes away after the car warms up. My mechanic said I can just remove it, but I am going to just keep it for now and have him remove him next time it starts to really annoy me.
Hi Fitz, thank you for the video! I think it will help with my broken clip replacement tremendously! One quick question, does the cable have a clip on it? As in I need to “unclip” it before I can disconnect it? 🙏
@@theodorestamatis512 doesn't matter. There a series of clamps from the turbo to the end of the exhaust that can get loose. So you might have to snug them all up while you're down there
Just got done replacing the "fixing bow" on my 335i and, while the rattle is 90% better, it still happens slightly while revving off-idle. Mainly during the split second of engine decel, when light burbles happen. I noticed that the actual actuator seems to have a bit of rotational play, i.e. I can turn the shaft (and, by extension, the exhaust valve) a bit with the car off. Does the actuator itself fail and get sloppy? Kinda seems like it, lol. Before, it rattled horribly on cold starts, if that's fixed then I hardly care about the very slight rattle that it still has. At the same time, though, I'd like to get it fixed 100%...
I have an m140i making this noise. As a complete novice to car repairs, is this as easy as you've made it look or should I get a professional to do it? Please be honest. I pick up stuff very quickly don't want to end breaking anything
Informative video as always, great to see another M235i owner with a manual car. Have you deleted the clutch delay valve on your car or do you have no issue with the clutch feel and response?
I've seen a few people on 2addicts who have done it and rave about it. I do find the clutch in the car to not be ideal. It is on my list for sure. Relatively simple process. On a side note, this reminds me of the terrible OEM clutch bump stop. Not sure if the 235 is the same as the 240 but the clutch throw is so long with OEM.
What do you mean stretch out the clip? Like stretch out flat? How is it a clip anymore if I stretch out -presumably- flat? I have this exact problem and when I touch this clip thing it seems to affect the Rattle noise. So, could you elaborate more on this?
We just did this to my sons car. This is second clip in 3 days because the first time it came out driving and we lost it. So we just did again, he talked or seen somewhere that a trick is to start the car and hurry up and unplug the actuator when it turns to get it into a place to easy line up the pin. We did that and it worked but something is wrong because now the actuator won’t move like it’s trying to turn further and it’s already at the stopper. If we try and pull the clip towards the front of the car it won’t line up with actuator. What are we doing wrong?????
Thanks sir, noob here. I saw in another video that they don't use the smaller side of the hair pin in the valve side, and I had just mounted it like that. Noise is gone, but I am worry about he long run. Do you think I should redo it with your advice on the valve side?
Thanks for the video. Quick question: what is part number just for the sensor that you plug it in? check out 3:12 of this video pls. Mine was damaged and I only need that part.
I installed the fixing bow but realized later that the 90 degree part of the bow is on the valve while the longer part is on tje actuator. Basically the opposite of how you have it installed. Can I leave it as is or will I need to reinstall it?
Do you have magic muscles? I tried doing this and the clip would not align itself, I put the bowed end in the bottom the same way you do, but the top part isn't aligned with the clip so it won't go in
@@FritzRamos it did not, but i was able to somewhat align it and after turning the valve by going through the different car modes it popped into the slot
Changed mine today on a 328 gt and the rattle is completely gone. Only thing is it won’t switch drive modes now for some reason, I even got underneath the car and it didn’t move. Could it be a sensor issue or something? My car did need the clip though as it was completely missing
Just ran into this problem is there anywhere I can order the clip from there is no dealership near me. Also is it bad to drive the car if it’s making that same rattle noise?
Hey man! Very informative video! Quick question: did this rattle also happen while driving? I`m having a rattle coming from the back of the car myself, and it seems that it only manifests itself in the cold time of the year. The rattle is present mostly at low revs and when i decelerate. I will tackle what you have shown in the video tomorrow; I will try to stretch the clamp a bit to see if the rattle goes away, and if it does I will order a new one. I await your response. Thank you!
@@penguin350 after some more research and deliberation, I concluded that it is indeed the wastegate flap from the turbo, with careful listening you can hear that the noise is coming from under the passager`s foot area. I`ve read that this is a common issue among turbo-charged BMW; in time, the flap will develop a rattle because of the temperatures and thermal exchange. The only thing you can do to minimize the damage is to let the car run at idle for a few minutes after a drive, to let the turbo cool down a bit, but the issue is inevitable. I even tried to adjust the wastegate actuator linkage using ISTA with no success, the rattle is still there. It is what it is, I`ve made peace with myself and with the noise, it does not bother me anymore( it`s not permanent, it`s random) and in time when the turbo goes, I will replace it and be done with it. Also to comment on the subject with the video, I have a whole different noise than the video. My noise is present while driving under certain circumstances ( when decelerating to be more precise), I dont have any abnormal noise at start-up.
My top price is not aligned with the bottom how do I fix that I even switched from sport to sport plus and comfort it turns but it’s not aligned at all get back to me somebody
Hi I have a E65 730d 2006, and when I reach 40mph I hear a similar rattling sound, do I have one of these fitted or does anybody know what it could be, it does not do this noise at all if it is in park or neutral and I'm revving it, only at 40mph, just fitted a new starter motor and I had to take off the inlet manifold so did the swirl flap blank delete as well, since that the car now starts as the starter was replaced, similar noise to what's in the video, any thoughts anybody.
Just wanted to reply to this myself on what worked for me. I have BimmerCode and BimmerLink installed. I used it to change the position of the flap from Auto to Open. Once this was done, I actually found the easiest way to install the bow was with the actuator installed but screws loosened. In that state, I was able to line up the bow and "squeeze" it in place. The open ended portion of the bow was pointed towards the end of the car. Super great video. Saved me quite a bit of $$ and worries!
Same can't get it to fit keeps sliding of on one side when I go to align the actuator, it's very loose in the grooves moves about and wants too slide out not snug at all so I gave up in the end
@@FritzRamos putting the clip in was a pain. I'm going to fabricate a small piece of s.s. tube with at least a 1/16" wall and match the I.D. of the two pieces. Drill some holes put a small s.s. Bolt or all thread through and see if that works better. That way I won't have to worry loosing it again.
Thanks Fritz, awesome video! Had to do mine today; For anyone who runs into issues pairing the two sides; I found that turning the car on, switching to Sport mode, and then turning the car off, helps with the angle of the actuator, once I did the clip slid in no problem and it was easier to line up.
Thank you! That was really helpful. Special credit goes to the camera operator who made the crystal clear video with all the details. Great job.
To anyone having trouble aligning the clip… do not remove the actuator loosen the bolts to where you have room to put the clip in the valve side, there will be tension on the clip but it’s not seated properly. Open your valves with sport mode or BimmerLink and the clip will snap right into place as the actuator turns.
That totally did the trick! Thanks
What size socket wrench do I need? The one I have is too big and Home Depot didn’t have any smaller ones :(
@@andrewso979810mm
Helps for sure dude, still a bit of a pain in the dick
This trick saved me so much time, please listen to this man’s advice 😎
THANK YOU! Just road-tripped for the holidays & didn't hear anything until I slowed down to pull into a gas station right at the end of the trip. Once I turned the radio down I heard that god-awful sound & panicked. First thing I found today was your vid, went out & crawled under the X5M & sure enough, the passenger side actuator is missing about two-thirds of its clip. Really surprised that part is so universal across a ton of models (including mine) so once again, Fritz to the rescue. Keep up the good work!
Thank you! I'm glad you got it fixed. I'm starting to think that since this part is used across so many chassis, maybe it doesn't fit as well on the cars it wasn't originally designed for. Hope you enjoyed your trip!
@@FritzRamos OK not the "easy 5 minute fix" on the F85 as yours. Ironically the much larger X5M has way less room to work with than yours, barely enough room for a shallow socket over a couple of the bolts & can just manage to get a couple of fingers in to maneuver around but not very well. Major pain! Also the actuator bracket on mine has a metal plate that yours doesn't & the fixing bow actually goes around either side of it, giving it an even greater level of difficulty, especially visually. Because it's so hard to see what I'm doing on mine I can't seem to line up the vale & actuator properly. Once I get the bow in there onto the valve & replace the actuator, I can't get the 2 to align parallel no matter which way or how far I spin the valve. I'm leaning towards a faulty actuator that might be stuck in a bad position & no longer working (which may have lead to the bow breaking in the 1st place).
I have been scratching my head every morning trying to figure where this rattle was coming from, garages said heatshield trouble, some even said there is rust in the exhaust.
Thank you so much for an easy fix my man.
Thanks to your video it took me about 10min to swap the bow out.. Some tips...
A small rachet helps a lot here. with it the bolts are easy to remove. You do not really need to disconnect the wire but it makes taking the bolts off easier. You will need a right angled pick tool to push down on the clip that holds the wire. Took me about a minute to aim it in right but once in it came off easy, you just have to pull. I found it is easier to put the new bow on if you just gently stretch it out a bit, this way it locks into place easily when you put the actuator back on.
One last thing... CHECK YOUR EXHAUST TIPS. I wound up replacing the bow for no reason. In the end it turned out that there were a few tiny rocks inside the exhaust tip. When ever the exhaust pipe would vibrate it caused the stones to bounce around, and this is what was making my clanking sound.
Bro I needed this so bad haha. Mine started the rattle a week ago. Just checked and my clip is busted in half. Thanks for the vid!
Anytime. Hope it helps and if I missed something please share how you fixed yours
Thanks bud. Just fixed my 2016 428i. I did have trouble getting the pin in to the groove on the both side as the actuator groove was few angle more twisted than the exhaust side which means it was not going to be a straight fit. I put back the actuator, fit the pin on the exhaust side and cramped the other side of the pin on the actuator so that pin is just lying on it. Then I started the car, put it in sport mode and did a little drive up and down my driveway and the pin on the actuator side fell in place (I think when actuator was activated, the motor twisted and the groove aligned)
I had the rattle and replaced the clip, about a month later the rattle was back. I ended up disconnecting it, protecting the connector and zip tying it safely. Not the most elegant solution but it works.
Was it hitting something?
@@FritzRamos I didn't investigate further, happy with the full exhaust note at start up. Not sure if I'd have to hook it back up when I get the Smog check
Thanks sooooooooooo much! This was the problem on my car too! I happened to find your video and the noise was exactly the same. Looked under the car and voila! Broken clip!
I have to admit, it looks much easier in the video than it was for me, mostly because I could not find a way to see it clearly as I was trying to seat the actuator; my view from underneath just wasn't as good as this video. But after watching a few more times, I figured out how to hold the clip in place with the back of my thumb, while feeling the initial alignment to the loose actuator; then it was the force to guide it into the clip's spring-load to finish seating the actuator - and BINGO: I got it! Absolutely awesome. What angers me is when I first got my 335xi I actually took it to the dealer because the muffler rattle really didn't sound right; that rattle sounds horrible to be clear. They totally missed it, and said it was normal; just the performance exhaust. So I've been driving with that rattle for over year. Wahoo to you!
I would not return to that dealership. They either don't know their cars or they were lying to you to make a sale.
I'll add that I am in Houston and the closest BMW dealership to me is one I refuse to go to because they are dishonest. So I travel 40 minutes away to another BMW dealership that has honest and integrous staff; no regrets. Not all BMW dealerships are the same.
My Tips:
- Use pliers to pinch the clip into place
- If your clip doesn't align with the actuator, try turning the car on, and engaging the various drive modes until it does. My actuator was a little bit out of the range of rotation of the valve pin, but aligned once I turned it to sport mode.
- This is A LOT easier if you jack your car up even 10cm so you have room to move your arms.
- Get a headlamp, or bright torch
I did not need to remove or even loosen the bolts, or unclip the electronics.
Thanks for the content dude. I have a M235i as well and use all your videos to assist me with repairs
Thats awesome! Glad to hear that you found them useful
@@FritzRamos The first
If you are someone who doesn’t have access to tool, you can install it by pushing in with your thumb, once you get to the point where it’s wedged in but not lined up, start your car and it will fall into place!
Thanks for sharing that tip!
You don't have to loosen the actuater at all. Use small cable tie to bring the two ends of the clip together. Now you can slip the pin in place. (Put the looped side of the pin on the actuator side). As soon as grooves are aligned and clip semi in place then snip the cable tie. It will spring into place. This is much easier than loosening the actuator.
Thanks for sharing! Although I hope I don't need to do it again lol
Thank you for this video
I lack tools and skills for most installs and I was able to finesse it in by hand and with a flat head screwdriver using your video, thanks so much
Thanks dude, exactly same problem. My fixing bow was broken.
Glad I could help
Thanks for this video. I had to do this about 3 years ago and it just broke again. The part arrives tomorrow.
Dude thank you!! I had no idea what the problem was until I saw this
My 435 just start doing this last week, thanks for the info!!
Very helpful. I just successfully completed the task thanks to you 🤘🏾
I did a stainless steel muffler and dual tips and I had to move the actuator to the passenger side, I literally fight to mount the clip and the actuator for about 2 hours, awesome tip
I understand. With the camera there it took me some time too. What exhaust did you get?
@@FritzRamos I put a custom one based on the valvetronic, but I made from the downpipe all the way to the back. I reuse the actuator so it's straight if in sport or it goes to the resonator if closed(comfort)
@@1618MyMusic 0o0 very nice 👌. If you want feel free to share the shops information as well as sound clips if you have them
@@FritzRamos I would love too but I'm from Costa Rica. Here is the video of the process and the end result. ruclips.net/video/is1QLokZ4LE/видео.html
For reference for anyone not working on it themselves, it cost me $190 ($20 parts, $170 labor) at dealer to replace my broken exhaust clip 🤷🏿♂️ added to the oil change and called it a day
That's crazy. I'll do this job if someone buys me lunch lol. Thanks for sharing
Awesome! Might have save some trying to buy a new exhaust. My car sounds exactly like that and I found a tiny part of that clip on the ground when I was checking things out. Going to give this a shot. Thanks man!
Still helped me on my m235i in 2023. Thanks!
Quality content on this channel...A+!
Thank you!
Just had this happen to my 235, in my case the clip had broken in half and part of it had hung on and was rattling around on the actuator. Pulled it off with just my hands (it was pretty loose already) and the rattle went away. I actually like the sound of the exhaust with the valve always open, so I’ll probably keep it that way for a while
I've just disconnected the switch, so now I have a great sound in all modes ;)
MUCHAS gracias Fritz, se resolvio el problema haciendo la pieza con un alambre galvanizado que tenia en casa........te lo agradezco bastante por compartir tus conocimientos.
My car does this intermittently during cold start up, it goes away after the car warms up. My mechanic said I can just remove it, but I am going to just keep it for now and have him remove him next time it starts to really annoy me.
Remove what? The flap in the muffler?
when my spring fell out, I just safety wired the valve open, so I have both pipes open all the time 😎
Very nice! 👍
Hi Fitz, thank you for the video! I think it will help with my broken clip replacement tremendously! One quick question, does the cable have a clip on it? As in I need to “unclip” it before I can disconnect it? 🙏
It's more of a plastic latch like the one on the intake
You're a lifesaver mate!!
I got this issue I’m going to check it out tomorrow ! I would only get it on cold starts
You might want to try tightning the clamps holding in your downpipe as well
It worked! Thank you.
Glad it helped
Thank you
Clutch video! Mine just started to rattle. I'm guessing it's this that's causing it
Thanks. Did this end up being the issue?
Wow this was a pain in the ass.
I know what you mean lol
Thanks a lot!
awesome video 👍🏻👍🏻 thankyou
Thank you for that. Glad it was helpful
Thank You
I did change it and still sounds like that 😞! Great video though very helpful
Try tightening your exhaust clamps and see if that helps
@@FritzRamos i have a muffler delete does that help or not? I am thinking putting back the m performance muffler see if that will fix it!
@@theodorestamatis512 doesn't matter. There a series of clamps from the turbo to the end of the exhaust that can get loose. So you might have to snug them all up while you're down there
@@FritzRamos thank you so much!
Just got done replacing the "fixing bow" on my 335i and, while the rattle is 90% better, it still happens slightly while revving off-idle. Mainly during the split second of engine decel, when light burbles happen. I noticed that the actual actuator seems to have a bit of rotational play, i.e. I can turn the shaft (and, by extension, the exhaust valve) a bit with the car off. Does the actuator itself fail and get sloppy? Kinda seems like it, lol. Before, it rattled horribly on cold starts, if that's fixed then I hardly care about the very slight rattle that it still has. At the same time, though, I'd like to get it fixed 100%...
I have an m140i making this noise. As a complete novice to car repairs, is this as easy as you've made it look or should I get a professional to do it? Please be honest. I pick up stuff very quickly don't want to end breaking anything
This sound gave me PTSD. My f30 got backed into at work a few months ago, and as soon as I started it up, exhaust rattle 😔 its all good now
Oh no... I'm happy to hear that everything is all good now.
Is this the same process on a 745?
Not a BMW owner but my Panamera has this same issue. I imagine it’s something similar
Informative video as always, great to see another M235i owner with a manual car. Have you deleted the clutch delay valve on your car or do you have no issue with the clutch feel and response?
Thanks. So far so good 🤞
I've seen a few people on 2addicts who have done it and rave about it. I do find the clutch in the car to not be ideal. It is on my list for sure. Relatively simple process. On a side note, this reminds me of the terrible OEM clutch bump stop. Not sure if the 235 is the same as the 240 but the clutch throw is so long with OEM.
If you chop it off disconnect and put that plug away will check engine light coke
What do you mean stretch out the clip? Like stretch out flat?
How is it a clip anymore if I stretch out -presumably- flat?
I have this exact problem and when I touch this clip thing it seems to affect the Rattle noise. So, could you elaborate more on this?
Lifesaver!
I’m having the same noise but I have a straight pipe and I they removed my valve
Took me 3 F’n hours but i did it
We just did this to my sons car. This is second clip in 3 days because the first time it came out driving and we lost it. So we just did again, he talked or seen somewhere that a trick is to start the car and hurry up and unplug the actuator when it turns to get it into a place to easy line up the pin. We did that and it worked but something is wrong because now the actuator won’t move like it’s trying to turn further and it’s already at the stopper. If we try and pull the clip towards the front of the car it won’t line up with actuator. What are we doing wrong?????
Thanks sir, noob here.
I saw in another video that they don't use the smaller side of the hair pin in the valve side, and I had just mounted it like that. Noise is gone, but I am worry about he long run. Do you think I should redo it with your advice on the valve side?
Can the actuator trigger Check engine light
Thanks for the video. Quick question: what is part number just for the sensor that you plug it in? check out 3:12 of this video pls. Mine was damaged and I only need that part.
I installed the fixing bow but realized later that the 90 degree part of the bow is on the valve while the longer part is on tje actuator. Basically the opposite of how you have it installed. Can I leave it as is or will I need to reinstall it?
Mine only does that rattle sometimes. Could this be tht same issue?
Just take a look with a flashlight while tee car is idling if it moves around as in 0:44 then yes.
Can the rattle be intermittent and not constant I seem to have a sound only when accelerating which the dealer cannot duplicate or remedy
If you unplug the sensor, will the rattling top? How do you test to make sure before you replace it?
Great video, thanks! Just replaced my fixing bow clip on my M240i and no more rattle 🙌🥳
do you need to buy a new bow?
Do you have magic muscles? I tried doing this and the clip would not align itself, I put the bowed end in the bottom the same way you do, but the top part isn't aligned with the clip so it won't go in
No matter what way you turn the valve it won't align with the actuator?
@@FritzRamos it did not, but i was able to somewhat align it and after turning the valve by going through the different car modes it popped into the slot
@@lsharpe1999 I'm happy to hear that it worked out then
Changed mine today on a 328 gt and the rattle is completely gone. Only thing is it won’t switch drive modes now for some reason, I even got underneath the car and it didn’t move. Could it be a sensor issue or something? My car did need the clip though as it was completely missing
Just ran into this problem is there anywhere I can order the clip from there is no dealership near me. Also is it bad to drive the car if it’s making that same rattle noise?
I left a link in the description
Happen to me today and I saw a little iron fell off
Hey man! Very informative video! Quick question: did this rattle also happen while driving? I`m having a rattle coming from the back of the car myself, and it seems that it only manifests itself in the cold time of the year. The rattle is present mostly at low revs and when i decelerate. I will tackle what you have shown in the video tomorrow; I will try to stretch the clamp a bit to see if the rattle goes away, and if it does I will order a new one. I await your response. Thank you!
That can be the waste flap seizing when it's cold
@@penguin350 after some more research and deliberation, I concluded that it is indeed the wastegate flap from the turbo, with careful listening you can hear that the noise is coming from under the passager`s foot area. I`ve read that this is a common issue among turbo-charged BMW; in time, the flap will develop a rattle because of the temperatures and thermal exchange. The only thing you can do to minimize the damage is to let the car run at idle for a few minutes after a drive, to let the turbo cool down a bit, but the issue is inevitable. I even tried to adjust the wastegate actuator linkage using ISTA with no success, the rattle is still there. It is what it is, I`ve made peace with myself and with the noise, it does not bother me anymore( it`s not permanent, it`s random) and in time when the turbo goes, I will replace it and be done with it. Also to comment on the subject with the video, I have a whole different noise than the video. My noise is present while driving under certain circumstances ( when decelerating to be more precise), I dont have any abnormal noise at start-up.
What was the issue . Have the same noise on mine
My top price is not aligned with the bottom how do I fix that I even switched from sport to sport plus and comfort it turns but it’s not aligned at all get back to me somebody
The Bottom part should move into alignment.
@@FritzRamos I used a flat head screwdriver and twisted it in good thank god
Will this clip fit a 2016 435i m sport?
I feel like an idiot and that got ripped off that the shop charged me $462 to replace the exhaust spring connector
Will this work on an F8x MPE?
Yes, but the part is different
Hi I have a E65 730d 2006, and when I reach 40mph I hear a similar rattling sound, do I have one of these fitted or does anybody know what it could be, it does not do this noise at all if it is in park or neutral and I'm revving it, only at 40mph, just fitted a new starter motor and I had to take off the inlet manifold so did the swirl flap blank delete as well, since that the car now starts as the starter was replaced, similar noise to what's in the video, any thoughts anybody.
Have the same issue with my 2015 f82 did you find a solution or was this video the problem?
The install is not that straight forward…I have spent hours trying to get it aligned. What is the secret there?
Just wanted to reply to this myself on what worked for me. I have BimmerCode and BimmerLink installed. I used it to change the position of the flap from Auto to Open. Once this was done, I actually found the easiest way to install the bow was with the actuator installed but screws loosened. In that state, I was able to line up the bow and "squeeze" it in place. The open ended portion of the bow was pointed towards the end of the car.
Super great video. Saved me quite a bit of $$ and worries!
Can you drive with this issue?
I hope so. Been driving with it flapping in the exhaust breeze for more than a year.
Hey Man I bought that same actuator clip on the link and it doesn’t seem to fit not sure if I just received a bad batch
It's too wide? Mine was pretty snug, thats what caused the sound when I pressed in the actuator
same here, been trying to put it on for 6 hours now, it just won't fit, won't fit won't fit in
@@stevetrevor1403 Is it too big or small. If you can't get it to work try this one: amzn.to/3b15cCa
Same can't get it to fit keeps sliding of on one side when I go to align the actuator, it's very loose in the grooves moves about and wants too slide out not snug at all so I gave up in the end
Jesus christ. Thank you. Thought it was a baffle.
No problem. Hope your car is all set now
@@FritzRamos putting the clip in was a pain. I'm going to fabricate a small piece of s.s. tube with at least a 1/16" wall and match the I.D. of the two pieces. Drill some holes put a small s.s. Bolt or all thread through and see if that works better. That way I won't have to worry loosing it again.
why did you unplug the sensor? Doesn't look like you needed to.
this is coming from the front left of my car tho😭😭😭
Buying this model has made me too poor to replace the spring...lol