Trad Climbing on The Butt Light - Pitch 4 (or The Butt Face), my favorite pitch
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Definitely my favorite pitch of Butt Light. As I mentioned in the video, this pitch really does feel like a perfect 5.9 in terms of difficulty & exposure.
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If you link all the way to the flake at 1:00 its better to build the belay there and then link to the bolt and nut below the chimney. Way less drag. Another advantadge is your belayer right beside you at the crux rather than being far away.
How tf are you so sketchy on 5.9 when I just saw you climb chain reaction lol?
I think you could have used nuts way better at that beginning crack
loving it
lol your comments about trusting the shoes are hella funny m8. Mocs are probably the best soft rubber shoe ever made and are like super glue on granite crystals! trust ya feet baby!
This climb is loving your yellow cam (that is bd gray for those non totem initiated) :)
callmeburton yeah the force vectors on that piece would be crazy enough to pull it out
As a gym rat who rarely gets outside the first part without pro had me stressed haha
I'm a few months away from climbing The Chief. Having only started trad this year, it seems like a big ask, however with a confident partner who can lead the 5.9s I guess I can cope! How was the exposure on Diedre? I hear both Diedre and Banana Peel are quite run out?
The only runouts on Diedre are the first and last pitches, the first being the most scary but really not that bad. The Crux of the last protects well. The rest of the climb follows a dihedral crack so there's plenty of places for gear.
@@FirstPersonBeta Will re-watch your video on Diedre and pay closer attention! The go-pro makes the angle look quite steep, but the manner in which you walk up barely using your hands tells me its a real low-angle friction slab. I'll make my partner lead the first and last! I also look forward to Butt Light after watching this!
tree stump is aid.
Heh, guess no points for me.
This video is aid.
1:30 till this point you werent secured it isnt so dangerous
ropedraaaaaaaaaaaag
Surprisingly wasn't that bad.
ewww you unclipped half her anchor??
She asked me to. Bare in mind her partner was climbing and already had pro in the system.
Wasn't that just a redirect?
Why not just clip a second carabiner into the bolt? Those hangers can handle two bolts...as evidenced by clipping two carabiners in the left bolt. You should have clipped a carabiner to each bolt underneath hers and then equalized. With hers on top she could easily remove her anchor when she was on belay and ready to climb....and not earned bad karma by unclipping another person's anchor, even though she said it was OK.
@@WyomingMtnMan This is the way.