Adapt and and overcome , no pain no gain. That's what I like about you Steve. You will stick with something until competition. This problem has been put to rest now. Good job.
wow steve your ingenuity never ceases to amaze me with what you have to work with you are a total machinist engineere. also im amazed at the rigidaty you have accomplished with your set--ups brilliant on your lathe. i would love to see what you could accomplish if you had a milling machine to accent your shop. if i could afford it id go good for the cost. thumbs up steve once again.
Seeing your video gave me the confidence to have a go at this on mine as the height issue has been a constant source of frustration. I used a fly cutter in my mill and it all worked well. Thanks.
Gday Steve, the blue nano inserts left a beautiful smooth finish on the cast iron and removing the 3mm doesn’t not look out of place at all its really hardly noticeable but has made a large improvement to the lathe, great job mate and thanks for sharing. Cheers Matty
Thank you so much for all those good ideas. You deserve a (metal, of course) statue for helping us all in the chip making hobby business. Respect and regards from Brussels, Dany
Made this modification on my ML7 (took off 1/8" total) and am putting it back together now. In Canada, Brit style 2BA fasteners are hard to come by, let alone short ones, so I switched to the next size up, M5x0.8 set screws with a #19 drill. Short set screws came from my sewing machine junk box; a typical metric sewing machine is filled with them. It looks like I will be able to run 1/2" tooling.
That what i like about you Steve you always find a solution to the problem, if it would weakened the material i don't think you would of chance it only you would know, nice job.
Good morning M. Jordan. The same modification was applied on my Myford ML7 when I bought it. I use 12 mm shank tools with 4mm shims or 16 mm tools directly with the correct centre height.
Nice work Steve. Really glad to see it worked out fine. I’ve got a Myford super 7 and have the same problem in that I can only use small cutters 8-10mm the same as you. I will look at my compound slide now and see if I have the balls to do the same to mine. Thanks for the inspiration. John
Hi John thanks. I will do an update video on the soon maybe to show re-assembly of the toolpost bolt. I use Loctite 638 in the area underneath where the bolt flange sits just to give added strength. Regards Steve
Steve Jordan Thanks for the update Steve. I’m just worried about milling mine down that it won’t be as sturdy and solid when cutting. My compound slide is different to yours in that it is parallel along the top and doesn’t have the radius like yours. Looking forward to the next video. Regards John
John Ambler I did the same modification on my Super 7B last year. I bolted the top slide down onto milling machine table & took off 3mm with a flycutter. There is still plenty of thickness & I haven’t had any problems.
Nice mod Steve I'm like you when it comes to altering my lathe so I think I would have sorted a second compound slide but now that you have 'gone for it' I may follow !
Soon after getting my ML7, I got a great deal on a Dorian quick-change toolpost and several attachments. I found, unfortunately, that this limited me to 1/4" (6mm-ish) shanks on the tools, even less room than with your toolpost. I assume the Dorian attachments have more metal under the tool shank than your attachments.My first solution to this was to make a fixed toolpost base to use when the compound is not required. This was a simple project: an appropriate bolt sticking out of the top of a steel block with bolt holes to allow mounting using the T-slots on the cross slide. This was made shorter than the compound so larger-shanked tools (up to 1/2") could be used.My other solution was along your lines, except that I took some material off the underside of the compound base to lower the tool. I added washers on the screws the hold the compound to the cross slide so the screws would not bottom out (I was too lazy to just shorten them).Now that I've seen what you've done I realize that I can do the same to allow me a full 1/2" shank size even when using the compound.
Dear Steve, I've been playing around with modifications to my Myford slide for a while... I've found that it's possible to get a nice weld with a nickel rod, using an arc welder, which can then be milled flat if, for example, you were to drill an unwanted hole and then wished to repair the damage... I keep an eye on eBay for second hand parts for these experiments. That way, I can always put the original bits back on and I've only wrecked a spare part with my bodging. Keep up the great videos!
Hi Nicholas, Yes that is a good idea. I must admit that I do have a spare ML7 compound slide set and that is the best way when doing a job like this, although I would have proceeded if I hadn't. I only undertake a modification like this after a very careful study of the parts and measurement to calculate the outcome. It is best though to do like you say and on occasions one can pick up spares for very good prices. I like to have all the main parts that are most prone to wear in stock. I have things like the Myford countershaft assembly spare which I have refurbished with new bushes etc. When my time is up, someone will be very pleased with the equipment, if they are into this type of thing.
You're obviously more than competent to work on your "best" components. I am not! Have you noticed that as soon as you decide to buy something on eBay, all the examples that you find are more expensive than when you were simply browsing out of curiosity.. or is it just me?
It is good thinking how you solved the problem. If i am not mistaken... the QSTP is a Dixon type 58 x 58 x 37 mm. I recieved mine 2 day's ago. There is also a bigger version 73 x 73 x 51 mm that can take up to 16 x 16 mm. So i wunder if that would not be a better choice. Even so you are very confident.
Hello Mr. Jordan ! I love all of your videos !! I have been watching and learning for years ! You’re a master sir !! I’m upset to see that all of your videos are private.. Now, I don’t know what that means but, I want you to know that, I would pay goood money to have access you your videos!! I truly hope all is ok ! Thank you :)
I’m replying to my own comment because I got on this morning and saw everything’s back can you just posted a channel trailer video I’m so excited thank you so much!
Your modification on your Myford cross-slide looks good, but I would suggest doing it a little differently on Chinese lathes. There typically isn't as much material on top. The QCTP retaining bolt/stud places significant forces on the cross-slide and I would advise against doing anything which might weaken it's attachment to the cross-slide. As I stated in a previous comment, I milled a clearance notch around the perimeter of the QCTP's base to provide clearance for tool holders with a rotary table. Even though this modification did not reduce the thickness of the material for the QCTP stud's attachment, I did another modification to reinforce it. I milled a counter bore from the bottom of the cross-slide to accept a stepped round steel insert which was pressed fitted, pinned, and Loctited into place.
You don't need to do this for the Chinese Mini Lathe. The QCTP is already at its optimal centre height position. 12mm tools can be used on the lathe from new without any alteration.
@@SteveJordan Thank you for the reply. I was curious when I encountered this issue on my lathe as to why I was unable to find any information about it. I have an 8" lathe that was not anywhere near as popular as 7" versions. So there's a lot less discussion about modifying them. Nevertheless, I'm still surprised that so many people chose 7" lathes. 8" lathes were only a little more expense, but they are far more robust and capable.
Thank you Steve your videos are so informative for me a beginner. One question I have is..is it possible to mill the whole of the top slide flat. Would it weaken the tool post any. Thanks Andy
Hi Andy. Thanks. Yes I think it would weaken it too much to mill it like you say. It's the shoulder on the underside that the tool-post bolt locates on that would become too thin if you milled it. Regards Steve
High steve. I would have bolted the compound slide to a faceplate using the curved slotts. Remove the toolpost locking screw. Depending on swing clearance remove the top slide adjusting screw and handle. Position the topslide on the compound so that the raised portion to be machined is farthest from the centre. Tighten the top slide gibs really firmly then just spin it on low revs to machine it. One smooth flat surface. I don't have a Myford but enjoy your videos. Would you have enough clearance to swing this set up on your lathe?
I've always said the Myford has a center height that is too low for real turning.......raising the height of the head and tail stock would be the sane solution or get another lathe.
John W@@SteveJordan Hi Steve, you have many innovative mods, a few of them I have used on the mini lathe. I have just acquired an ML7 so I am a bit of a newby on this machine. it seems to me that the problem of tool height is with the spindle height and not the compound. So thinking out of the box what could be the problems if you were to add 3mm spacers under the headstock gearbox casting. The only problems I can see are Banjo adjustment and tailstock spacer. Am I suggesting the impossible.
Hi Adam I'm confident it will be fine. There is plenty of thickness left for strength. I do have a spare slide already though that came with the lathe.
@@SteveJordan Fair enough Steve, Just a thought, if you'd had a larger lathe, may be held the top slide and dialled the tool post stud to be concentric. Then turned a shouldered recess for clearance, rather than machining the whole top surface ? Adam
Steve. Why did you not just bolt the components slide (complete assembly minus the tool post spigot) to the angle plate and use the slide to feed down for the next pass?
Because the angle plate is fail safe in that it is totally rigid. The milling slides are good but have a lot of overhang for a job like this. There would be more chance of something going wrong.
@@SteveJordan I did not say milling slide. just bolt the compound slide to the angle plate. so it is vertical . And put each pass on using the compound slide.
G’day Steve. On the subject of quick change tool posts, what would you recommend is a good one to fit the ML7 ? I know that you don’t mind the Chinese made stuff....is there one in particular that you would recommend that will do the job and for a reasonable price and quality ? I live in Australia Thanks Jason
the 3 off 2BA grub screws where of interest to me. Both my friends and my lathe have the holes but no grub screws. Do you think Myford discontinued using them because the single pin was strong enough?
Steve, any idea why all your videos are suddenly listed as "Private?". I like your videos and have used them a number of times to help me to upgrade my own ML7!
Super 7 owners proceed with caution... I have purchased these same 12mm toolholders, intending to use them on my early Super 7. On my lathe, the toolpost stud is retained by a horizontal allen grubscrew and brass pad in a threaded hole. The dimension from the top edge of this hole to the top surface of the compound slide is less than 4mm. If you machine 3mm off the top face as Steve has done, I believe you would risk distortion or cracking of the casting. I don't know if all Super 7's were made this way... it could even have been a modification done by my father, who purchased the lathe new seventy years ago, when I was five years old! This is rather sad really, as Steve has come up with a solution that I thought would answer my prayers. Perhaps I was praying to the wrong god?
John W Hi Steve, you have many innovative mods, a few of them I have used on the mini lathe. I have just acquired an ML7 so I am a bit of a newby on this machine. it seems to me that the problem of tool height is with the spindle height and not the compound. So thinking out of the box what could be the problems if you were to add 3mm spacers under the headstock gearbox casting. The only problems I can see are Banjo adjustment and tailstock spacer. Am I suggesting the impossible.
Hi John, If you do that it will also be out by 3mm with the tailstock height. Also I don't think the gears at the back would engage. Without studying the lathe in depth there would probably be loads of other things that wouldn't line up. I have never heard of any modifications of this type. The lathe can be used perfectly like it is with 8mm or 10mm turning tools. I just modified the compound so I can use 12mm turning tools, because I'm machining a lot of large square bar and this gives a bit more stability, but otherwise I have been using it unmodified for several years. I am making a toolpost at the moment that I can use directly on the cross slide, without the compound slide, to take the quick change toolpost, set lower giving maximum tool shank use. .You can use one of these for turning and boring and the swap back to the compound slide in you need to do compound angle turning etc. I hope to show this in a new video very soon.
@@SteveJordan Steve, yes I know there may be some difficulty involved but I did mention tailstock spacers and maybe just 3 mm is not too much adjustment on the geometry. Raising spindle and tail could be worth a try.
@@johnworthington8600 I personally don't like to alter my lathe like that. I like to keep it as original as possible as it is so well designed and made. I always think that if one has to use spacers and packing to get things correct, it can end up feeling like a botch-up. Well that's my personal thought. You may have a well thought out good design and modification though. I have seen one or two modifications on these lathes that have totally destroyed perfectly good machines. Anyway I have overcome the problem now and can use the 12mm shank tools. It was straight forward to do with minimal alteration to the lathe.
@@SteveJordan That's fair enough Steve, I just thought if it was feasible it would be a much cheaper option when you consider I do not have all the tooling you have and for the cost of some 3 mm plate steel and a few hours work it was an option.
Hi Oliver you have to take the top slide off and give the stud a knock with a soft mallet to push it out from the underside. If someone has locktited it you may have to warm it up before pushing it out. It's best to warm it slightly if it is really cold anyway. Regards Steve
@@gvet47 It is actually 7mm. I think it will be fine though, as other people have done and used this modification. I'm also going to clean the casting and reassemble the toolpost bolt flange into to recess using a coating in high strength Loctite 638 which will ensure no movement of the bolt and extra strength all round.
JOHN, plenty of metal left, done this mod 10 years ago with all my toolholders , never looked back, gives you a wider choice of tooling to use, built 4 engines on mine over the years and never a problem, you wont regret it,
facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952
Good work. I was thinking of doing it to my ml7, and now after this, I think it’s definitely happening soon. Nice job
Adapt and and overcome , no pain no gain. That's what I like about you Steve. You will stick with something until competition. This problem has been put to rest now. Good job.
wow steve your ingenuity never ceases to amaze me with what you have to work with you are a total machinist engineere. also im amazed at the rigidaty you have accomplished with your set--ups brilliant on your lathe. i would love to see what you could accomplish if you had a milling machine to accent your shop. if i could afford it id go good for the cost. thumbs up steve once again.
Seeing your video gave me the confidence to have a go at this on mine as the height issue has been a constant source of frustration. I used a fly cutter in my mill and it all worked well. Thanks.
A very courageous decision. Glad it paid off for you.
Gday Steve, the blue nano inserts left a beautiful smooth finish on the cast iron and removing the 3mm doesn’t not look out of place at all its really hardly noticeable but has made a large improvement to the lathe, great job mate and thanks for sharing. Cheers Matty
Thank you so much for all those good ideas. You deserve a (metal, of course) statue for helping us all in the chip making hobby business. Respect and regards from Brussels, Dany
pro trick : watch movies at KaldroStream. Been using it for watching loads of movies during the lockdown.
@Isaias Aries Yup, been using Kaldrostream for months myself :D
Made this modification on my ML7 (took off 1/8" total) and am putting it back together now. In Canada, Brit style 2BA fasteners are hard to come by, let alone short ones, so I switched to the next size up, M5x0.8 set screws with a #19 drill. Short set screws came from my sewing machine junk box; a typical metric sewing machine is filled with them. It looks like I will be able to run 1/2" tooling.
That what i like about you Steve you always find a solution to the problem, if it would weakened the material i don't think you would of chance it only you would know, nice job.
Hi yes I did study the compound slide carefully before undertaking this task. I'm confident it is still super strong.
Good morning M. Jordan. The same modification was applied on my Myford ML7 when I bought it. I use 12 mm shank tools with 4mm shims or 16 mm tools directly with the correct centre height.
Hi Bruno Thanks, That is good to know. I thought there maybe some out there that have had this done. Regards Steve
Nice work Steve. Really glad to see it worked out fine. I’ve got a Myford super 7 and have the same problem in that I can only use small cutters 8-10mm the same as you. I will look at my compound slide now and see if I have the balls to do the same to mine. Thanks for the inspiration. John
Hi John thanks. I will do an update video on the soon maybe to show re-assembly of the toolpost bolt. I use Loctite 638 in the area underneath where the bolt flange sits just to give added strength. Regards Steve
Steve Jordan Thanks for the update Steve. I’m just worried about milling mine down that it won’t be as sturdy and solid when cutting. My compound slide is different to yours in that it is parallel along the top and doesn’t have the radius like yours. Looking forward to the next video. Regards John
John Ambler
I did the same modification on my Super 7B last year. I bolted the top slide down onto milling machine table & took off 3mm with a flycutter. There is still plenty of thickness & I haven’t had any problems.
Mark Dawson Thanks Mark.
You continue your amazement engineering. Thank you, Cheers.
Nice mod Steve I'm like you when it comes to altering my lathe so I think I would have sorted a second compound slide but now that you have 'gone for it' I may follow !
Soon after getting my ML7, I got a great deal on a Dorian quick-change toolpost and several attachments. I found, unfortunately, that this limited me to 1/4" (6mm-ish) shanks on the tools, even less room than with your toolpost. I assume the Dorian attachments have more metal under the tool shank than your attachments.My first solution to this was to make a fixed toolpost base to use when the compound is not required. This was a simple project: an appropriate bolt sticking out of the top of a steel block with bolt holes to allow mounting using the T-slots on the cross slide. This was made shorter than the compound so larger-shanked tools (up to 1/2") could be used.My other solution was along your lines, except that I took some material off the underside of the compound base to lower the tool. I added washers on the screws the hold the compound to the cross slide so the screws would not bottom out (I was too lazy to just shorten them).Now that I've seen what you've done I realize that I can do the same to allow me a full 1/2" shank size even when using the compound.
nice work Steve, as always, keep up the good work
regards...Keith in Swindon aka Mr-Myford
those blue nano inserts really seem to do a very good job steve.
Dear Steve, I've been playing around with modifications to my Myford slide for a while... I've found that it's possible to get a nice weld with a nickel rod, using an arc welder, which can then be milled flat if, for example, you were to drill an unwanted hole and then wished to repair the damage... I keep an eye on eBay for second hand parts for these experiments. That way, I can always put the original bits back on and I've only wrecked a spare part with my bodging. Keep up the great videos!
Hi Nicholas, Yes that is a good idea. I must admit that I do have a spare ML7 compound slide set and that is the best way when doing a job like this, although I would have proceeded if I hadn't. I only undertake a modification like this after a very careful study of the parts and measurement to calculate the outcome. It is best though to do like you say and on occasions one can pick up spares for very good prices.
I like to have all the main parts that are most prone to wear in stock. I have things like the Myford countershaft assembly spare which I have refurbished with new bushes etc.
When my time is up, someone will be very pleased with the equipment, if they are into this type of thing.
You're obviously more than competent to work on your "best" components. I am not! Have you noticed that as soon as you decide to buy something on eBay, all the examples that you find are more expensive than when you were simply browsing out of curiosity.. or is it just me?
Great mod I will be doing this to my ml7 in the very near future, thanks Steve
Just looked the video Steve and noticed the additional clamp you used to give extra holding clamp
It is good thinking how you solved the problem. If i am not mistaken... the QSTP is a Dixon type 58 x 58 x 37 mm. I recieved mine 2 day's ago. There is also a bigger version 73 x 73 x 51 mm that can take up to 16 x 16 mm. So i wunder if that would not be a better choice. Even so you are very confident.
Hello Mr. Jordan ! I love all of your videos !! I have been watching and learning for years ! You’re a master sir !! I’m upset to see that all of your videos are private.. Now, I don’t know what that means but, I want you to know that, I would pay goood money to have access you your videos!! I truly hope all is ok ! Thank you :)
I’m replying to my own comment because I got on this morning and saw everything’s back can you just posted a channel trailer video I’m so excited thank you so much!
Smashing job Steve!!
Your modification on your Myford cross-slide looks good, but I would suggest doing it a little differently on Chinese lathes. There typically isn't as much material on top. The QCTP retaining bolt/stud places significant forces on the cross-slide and I would advise against doing anything which might weaken it's attachment to the cross-slide.
As I stated in a previous comment, I milled a clearance notch around the perimeter of the QCTP's base to provide clearance for tool holders with a rotary table. Even though this modification did not reduce the thickness of the material for the QCTP stud's attachment, I did another modification to reinforce it. I milled a counter bore from the bottom of the cross-slide to accept a stepped round steel insert which was pressed fitted, pinned, and Loctited into place.
You don't need to do this for the Chinese Mini Lathe. The QCTP is already at its optimal centre height position. 12mm tools can be used on the lathe from new without any alteration.
@@SteveJordan
Thank you for the reply. I was curious when I encountered this issue on my lathe as to why I was unable to find any information about it. I have an 8" lathe that was not anywhere near as popular as 7" versions. So there's a lot less discussion about modifying them. Nevertheless, I'm still surprised that so many people chose 7" lathes. 8" lathes were only a little more expense, but they are far more robust and capable.
Convenient device for milling!
Brilliant! thanks for this Steve, it has been a great help
Thank you Steve your videos are so informative for me a beginner. One question I have is..is it possible to mill the whole of the top slide flat. Would it weaken the tool post any. Thanks Andy
Hi Andy. Thanks. Yes I think it would weaken it too much to mill it like you say.
It's the shoulder on the underside that the tool-post bolt locates on that would become too thin if you milled it. Regards Steve
Hi Steve, only one video left on your channel? I hope you are in good health.
Regards from Belgium, Pieter
They are all back on now.
@@SteveJordan Thank you.
High steve. I would have bolted the compound slide to a faceplate using the curved slotts. Remove the toolpost locking screw. Depending on swing clearance remove the top slide adjusting screw and handle. Position the topslide on the compound so that the raised portion to be machined is farthest from the centre. Tighten the top slide gibs really firmly then just spin it on low revs to machine it. One smooth flat surface. I don't have a Myford but enjoy your videos. Would you have enough clearance to swing this set up on your lathe?
I've always said the Myford has a center height that is too low for real turning.......raising the height of the head and tail stock would be the sane solution or get another lathe.
Muito bom amigo!!!Excelente trabalho amigo!!!Like!!!Obrigado amigo, e saudações do Brasil!!!!
Thanks..... Greetings from the UK....Regards Steve
Muito bom amigo!!!Eu que agradeço amigo!!!Obrigado saudações do Brasil!!!Atenciosamente João.@@SteveJordan
John W@@SteveJordan Hi Steve, you have many innovative mods, a few of them I have used on the mini lathe. I have just acquired an ML7 so I am a bit of a newby on this machine. it seems to me that the problem of tool height is with the spindle height and not the compound. So thinking out of the box what could be the problems if you were to add 3mm spacers under the headstock gearbox casting. The only problems I can see are Banjo adjustment and tailstock spacer. Am I suggesting the impossible.
Very long way round for a sortcut mill were the tool is held and use shims for the smaller size tools
Hi Steve,
That took some gut's, I would have bought second top slide, just in case something goes wrong.
Adam
Hi Adam I'm confident it will be fine. There is plenty of thickness left for strength. I do have a spare slide already though that came with the lathe.
@@SteveJordan
Fair enough Steve,
Just a thought, if you'd had a larger lathe, may be held the top slide and dialled the tool post stud to be concentric.
Then turned a shouldered recess for clearance, rather than machining the whole top surface ?
Adam
@@adaml52 Yes that would have been a better modification....That's ruined my video title now....:-)
Regards Steve
👍👍👍
Watching in Alabama
Steve. Why did you not just bolt the components slide (complete assembly minus the tool post spigot) to the angle plate and use the slide to feed down for the next pass?
Because the angle plate is fail safe in that it is totally rigid. The milling slides are good but have a lot of overhang for a job like this. There would be more chance of something going wrong.
He means use the compound slide not the milling attachment.
@@SteveJordan I did not say milling slide. just bolt the compound slide to the angle plate. so it is vertical . And put each pass on using the compound slide.
G’day Steve. On the subject of quick change tool posts, what would you recommend is a good one to fit the ML7 ? I know that you don’t mind the Chinese made stuff....is there one in particular that you would recommend that will do the job and for a reasonable price and quality ? I live in Australia
Thanks
Jason
What brand of toolpost would you guys recommend me purchase for my ML7 Myford? If possible provide a website? Thank you!
the 3 off 2BA grub screws where of interest to me. Both my friends and my lathe have the holes but no grub screws. Do you think Myford discontinued using them because the single pin was strong enough?
Steve, any idea why all your videos are suddenly listed as "Private?". I like your videos and have used them a number of times to help me to upgrade my own ML7!
I’m unfortunately trying to figure that out as well ! I hope he’s doing alright!! I’d pay for these videos!!
They are all public again now.
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Thank you.
Hi. What about the bullet mold did you make progress?
is this the t37 post i keep seeing on ebay ?
also what size is it comparable AXA ? OXA ??
Steve, your youtube channel is not working. Is everything OK. Greetings from Australia.
Why not just mill a large washer as a spacer?
Super 7 owners proceed with caution... I have purchased these same 12mm toolholders, intending to use them on my early Super 7.
On my lathe, the toolpost stud is retained by a horizontal allen grubscrew and brass pad in a threaded hole. The dimension from the top edge of this hole to the top surface of the compound slide is less than 4mm. If you machine 3mm off the top face as Steve has done, I believe you would risk distortion or cracking of the casting. I don't know if all Super 7's were made this way... it could even have been a modification done by my father, who purchased the lathe new seventy years ago, when I was five years old!
This is rather sad really, as Steve has come up with a solution that I thought would answer my prayers. Perhaps I was praying to the wrong god?
Could the bolt for tool holder be threaded into casting of the compound?
Not really. There isn't enough thickness on the cast iron to get enough threads for toughness I think.
Its a lot easier to purchase the correct tooling for the lathe , why create problems
John W Hi Steve, you have many innovative mods, a few of them I have used on the mini lathe. I have just acquired an ML7 so I am a bit of a newby on this machine. it seems to me that the problem of tool height is with the spindle height and not the compound. So thinking out of the box what could be the problems if you were to add 3mm spacers under the headstock gearbox casting. The only problems I can see are Banjo adjustment and tailstock spacer. Am I suggesting the impossible.
Hi John, If you do that it will also be out by 3mm with the tailstock height. Also I don't think the gears at the back would engage. Without studying the lathe in depth there would probably be loads of other things that wouldn't line up. I have never heard of any modifications of this type.
The lathe can be used perfectly like it is with 8mm or 10mm turning tools. I just modified the compound so I can use 12mm turning tools, because I'm machining a lot of large square bar and this gives a bit more stability, but otherwise I have been using it unmodified for several years.
I am making a toolpost at the moment that I can use directly on the cross slide, without the compound slide, to take the quick change toolpost, set lower giving maximum tool shank use. .You can use one of these for turning and boring and the swap back to the compound slide in you need to do compound angle turning etc. I hope to show this in a new video very soon.
@@SteveJordan Steve, yes I know there may be some difficulty involved but I did mention tailstock spacers and maybe just 3 mm is not too much adjustment on the geometry. Raising spindle and tail could be worth a try.
@@johnworthington8600 I personally don't like to alter my lathe like that. I like to keep it as original as possible as it is so well designed and made. I always think that if one has to use spacers and packing to get things correct, it can end up feeling like a botch-up. Well that's my personal thought. You may have a well thought out good design and modification though.
I have seen one or two modifications on these lathes that have totally destroyed perfectly good machines. Anyway I have overcome the problem now and can use the 12mm shank tools. It was straight forward to do with minimal alteration to the lathe.
@@SteveJordan That's fair enough Steve, I just thought if it was feasible it would be a much cheaper option when you consider I do not have all the tooling you have and for the cost of some 3 mm plate steel and a few hours work it was an option.
I'm struggling to get the original stud out of my Mysford top slide Steve! Is it just press-fit?
Hi Oliver you have to take the top slide off and give the stud a knock with a soft mallet to push it out from the underside. If someone has locktited it you may have to warm it up before pushing it out. It's best to warm it slightly if it is really cold anyway. Regards Steve
The stud has a turned diameter that sits in a bore on the underside..,..if you see what I mean.
@@SteveJordan Yes, but I cannot hammer the thing out! Seems stuck solid. Tried heat too.
@@SteveJordan I'll try more heat then thanks :-)
Is the tool post mounting bolts recessed underneath? How much thickness is left there?
About 9mm thickness is left which is fine
@@SteveJordan That is sure more than what Emma just delt with.
@@gvet47 I will measure it later to see exactly.
@@gvet47 It is actually 7mm. I think it will be fine though, as other people have done and used this modification. I'm also going to clean the casting and reassemble the toolpost bolt flange into to recess using a coating in high strength Loctite 638 which will ensure no movement of the bolt and extra strength all round.
Not something Id do ! The thichness of material between the toolpost base and the top of the dovetail might be too weak now.
JOHN, plenty of metal left, done this mod 10 years ago with all my toolholders , never looked back, gives you a wider choice of tooling to use, built 4 engines on mine over the years and never a problem, you wont regret it,
No there is plenty of thickness for strength. It's a great modification.
N/p QUICKCHANGE PLEASE
SEE THE COMPLETION OF THIS MODIFICATION HERE:-ruclips.net/video/uf1F5hlI8lU/видео.html
Scary mod not worth the hassle to gain an extra 2mm. I'll pass on that one thanks.
and this useless comment was made why??,,,nit picker opinions are not needed,