HOW TO: Change Your Go Kart Axle The Easy Way - POWER REPUBLIC
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- This week we're going in depth on changing your go kart axle.
Here's the video on aligning your sprockets here: • Power Republic - How T...
Check out our new Go Kart Racing Rituals video series here: bit.ly/RacingRituals
Subscribe to us here: / powerrepublic
Check us out on Patreon here: / powerrepublic
For more information or to purchase parts, head to our website:
www.powerrepublic.com.au
Or check out our social media at:
/ powerrepublic
/ powerrepublic
#POWERREPUBLIC #GOKARTS 
Спорт
Great video! It would be great to make a video showing how to service the rear axle bearings and let us know how often they require servicing.Thanks!
hey Chris , thanks heaps for watching our videos. I have a video on how to remove and install them,
best way to wash them out is degreaser and pressure washer, then with compressed air.
don't forget to regrease em
Your channel is amazing for people who are new to karting. Thank you so much for the videos.
Thanks mate and you are very welcome
Brilliant video. As always clear and easy to follow instructions. Helped me a lot.... THANK YOU.
Glad it helped
You should use a drill bit to make an indent on the axle that the grub screw fits into. This prevents the grub screw raising the metal to a level above the axle surface. It makes it MUCH easier to remove the axle. Very important not to drill right through the axle. I use a bolt with a hole drilled through the centre. I screw the bolt in place of the grub screw. I then use the hole in the bolt as a drill bit guide. The result are indents perfectly aligned with the grub screw. Clamps the axle really well and makes it easy to refit an axle back into the same position.
Darren Conway thanks for the hot tip. Great idea. I’ll pass it on to our guys. Where do you go go-Karting?
@@PowerRepublic Wellington, NZ
You can also use heatshrink on your drill bit to prevent it from damaging the thread
@@johngstuart9040 never thought of that, great idea John
very usefull .i love waching the stuff great info
Thanks mate, you are very welcome
awesome video...
great work bud👍
Glad you liked it!
I recently bought a used go kart been struggling with replacing parts. But your vid helps a lot
Hey Mick, glad to help and thanks for tuning in!
Thank you very much for these videos! Hugely, hugely helpful to a new go kart Dad. Trying to get good at the basics for now.
I think an awesome series (more content) would be what to do in panic situations. IE- crash in a pre final with a severely bent axle, tie rod ect. Thanks again!
Hey Jake, Thanks for the suggestion. Our race day survival series needs some more vids.
These are so helpful thanks very much from Jersey Channel Islands
Hey John, you are very welcome. go get some!!!
Another thing to keep in mind is some axles (like on my TopKart) are directional, meaning the keyways are not symmetrical on both ends of the axle. One end is intended for the sprocket carrier and the other for the brake rotor, so make sure you have the ends right before sliding it back in...
thanks for the tip broski
Very nice and handy video! Now I'm waiting for video about removing axle from DD2 engine, because it's a slighty different procedure ;)
yes the DD2 is slightly different. Only major difference being the removal of the engine drive coupling. Then you should be able to remove the axle out through the engine side of the kart.
Great video !!! Very helpful ad always . Do you have one on aligning the bearing cassettes/axle !??
Found it in the “how to assemble a go kart” series, part 3 , assembly of rear end !
Hey Volt, yeah I thought that was the one. thanks for tuning in and searching around the channel😊
What torque would you suggest for the hub bolt? I did not see you apply a lot of muscle wit the Allen key. I had an experience of the hub/wheel "leaving" the at a good speed on a straight... Several contributing factors (1" of 40 mm axle engagement in the hub, slight damage to the hub bore from a loose key, and likely not sufficient clamping force from the bolt) Replacing the hubs, modifying the axle to permit a longer key with the pegs and increasing hub engagement. Doing club racing in 4 stroke Briggs here in Canada. Thanks for a great source of information on OTK karts.
thanks heaps for tuning in and watching the videos Miro. its an M8 bolt which is 20Nm if you are using a Torque wrench for tightening. otherwise arm strong with an Allen key is normally enough to keep the wheels from coming off
hello greatings from el paso tx
i have a go kart racing
with rotax 125 cc max
wat kind of gas i will need
thanks u
great videos
thanks heaps for tuning in from EL Passo brozee.
rotax max run on pump gas. we use the highest octane 98 we can find here in Australia.
Love your video series! Just switched two drivers (my sons) over to Kosmic mercury R karts in the last few months (One last year and the other starting in a couple of weeks). Both were used karts (only one race each). The karts arrived with the rear brake side bearings on different from each other. One is the same as your video where the collar of the brake side is outside, but one kart has the collar on the inside matching the engine side. Our Birel's were always on the inside. Does this make a big difference???
not massive difference. from factory tony kart they have both bearings facing the same direction ( small end to the brake side of the kart )
5:30 That’s a happy axle 😂
😀
Axle slides in so smoothly. Do you use fine-grit sandpaper to go inside the bearing carrier so the Bearings are not so stiff and can move freely and align? Do the insides of the bearings themselves get a little surface area polished off?
yeah once the axle bearings are aligned, then the axle slides in like a dream.
I do use emery paper when the axle is old or rusty, but not when brand new.
Nah, just grab some new ones. they are a consumable too.
Really want to know where you got that adaptable allen/torx key ??
we sell them, drop us an email and we can organise a set to be shipped out
Hello! Thanks for this useful video.
Would you know where I can find the tube you use to hit on the axle?
As I don't have the special tube you have, I can only hit on the axle until it is flush with the brake, but then it is blocked.
Just found it in the comments.
Thanks again for the videos and for all the time you took to answer all those comments!
You can on our wed site. If you email me your address , name and email I will make one for you
Great video!! What type of loctite should I use? Medium or strong?
I use 243 blue nut locker.
@@PowerRepublic thanks a lot. Greetings from England !!!
Quick question, I currently have a wooden push go cart 😂😂 I would like to upgrade it to a 48v 1800w motor . I current have wheels with bearings built in . With the rear axle should the wheels move on it or should they be fixed so they don’t move ???
ruclips.net/video/uSCl5jIhb0M/видео.html
the wheel hubs should slide on the axle.
Looking forwards to seeing this project completed!!!
Hi!!! Thanks for all the great videos!! Have a bent 30mm rear axle that's pinching in the bearing collar. Any suggestions on how to get it out? I've tried to knock it out but it's stuck. Probably looking at cutting it to get everything apart but any suggestions help at this point! Thanks again!!
if it has more than about 6 or 7mm band in it, then it is probably stuffed and you can cut it out with an angle grinder. Otherwise, take the axle and bearing carriers out as one complete unit and then you can remove the bearings one at a time with a soft hammer, with the cassettes still on the bearings it gives you a good surface to strike on with your hammer. hope that helps and a let me know how you go.
Thanks for they quick reply! My son went in backwards into the barriers at 60 kph so we're talking more in the range of 6-7cm rather than mm 🙈. Have disassembled the axle from the chassi and will try to cut it tonight. Assume that one side without the bend will be easy to knock out but the other side will probably provide some grief. Assume heating up the bearing collar a little (while trying to cool the axle with a wet rag) will help to provide some more slack in the tolerances. Fingers crossed and I'll let you know how everything goes!
@@robertkamperin4382 just cut the axle in 2 places, just inside both bearings but leave enough so that you can remove the burred edge after cutting. This way the axle won't 'pick up' when being hammered through the bearings.
You could heat it up but I think it won't be necessary.
@@PowerRepublic thanks, will give it a try tomorrow! On the "healthy" side I just had to tap it with a rubber hammer and it came off easily but on surprises on the other side, it was just simply stuck
What is the best thing to use on axle to keep them from rusting?
2 stroke oil, or extreme use some grease
Good look doing it this way with a bent axle
The third bearing carrier is removed on this kart what is difference between with our without thanks
Hey JJ, it makes the rear soft or stiff. soft is most preferred. stiff is good when the tracks are real hot and sticky out of slow corners
Any idea where I can get an axle basher like the one you used? I have seen them with a smaller diameter on the main shaft so they can be used for 30mm, 40mm, or 50mm basher heads, but I really like the one you have because it is supported nicely in the bearing all the way until the axle is through the brake hub. If only I had a lathe!!!!
Bennett Taylor are you in Australia? I can make one for you and ship it out. They are $50 plus the shipping.
Power Republic I’m in the US. If you can find reasonably priced shipping, even if it’s really slow (its winter here) I’ll buy one. I’ll send my contact info through your website.
@@ReactorFour got it and I'm on it!
Got the axle basher today! Thanks mate.
Hey Derek, can I get one too?! 🙋🏽♂️
Hi Dez,
Thanks for the video, I came across few times with m6 cap screws on the brake disc carrier snapping, (only applying arm force) same for the m8 on the hubs.
Is there a newton torque chart to follow when doing these routine tasks? I found myself questioning many times, is it tight enough? Or is it too tight?
Another question is, when re installing the axel, is it better to loosen the bearing cassette screw? So all the bearings self align?
Cheers
the torque settings are available on line, just google the size you are after.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolts-maximum-torque-d_2054.html
I would, but there is another way you can do it too where you line them up from each side of the kart and then locking them into position .
@@PowerRepublic Great, got the chart. Will try to line them up, from outside first then install the third one and see what happens, I always had the issue that the axel spins free with the two outer bearings, as soon as I tight the mid bearing cassette onto the chassis the axel doesn’t spin as free. I will give it a go. Thanks for the tips again as usual 👍🏼🤙🏼
Why the alloy angle on the chain guard? Is it to stop the original thin flange/nuts from spinning after doing them up too tight?
sure does, check this one out
ruclips.net/video/Z25Yx27ELHc/видео.html
@@PowerRepublic Nice one and thanks. I will try it. After 8+ years of karting, first time I've seen this hack (I've been drilling access holes on the outer side of the guard and using a long key to ensure they are tight). Cheers and keep up the good work.
hi, how tight should I do the set screws which fix the axle? Thanks
I do them up as tight as I can with the short end of the T bar Allen key. Make sure you use some loctite to keep them in, Also if you are using a soft axle its best to use the axle stiffener bushes on the inside of the axle to stop the axle from deforming too much from the grub screws.
@@PowerRepublic thanks
What's the bearing size the axel is going through
they come in 30mm, 40mm and 50mm variations
how do you know what size axel you need?
generally the senior drivers on medium and soft tyres go with a 50mm. Cadets and Juniors go with the 30mm and the 40mm is for medium power engines and medium grip tyres.
Would you do a video on how to get engines warmer ?
as in before you hit the track first thing or to make them hotter whilst driving?
Whilst driving
put your arm over the radiator, hold the brake on lightly as you're driving, drive overly aggressive on out lap,
I have bought a 2007 mod Rotax Max and it has 3 bearings on the axel. Is this necessary? I think I need to replace them aswell... It's only going to be used for training. BTW love your videos🙏
Hey Jan, thanks mate. Maybe just replace the outside two and take the third middle one out altogether.. that's is a very popular modification here
@@PowerRepublic Thank you!
Why would you change axels and what way do you go?
Harder or softer and why
we change them mostly because the conditions have changed and the driver isn't happy with the chassis. if you are only new to karting it wont change your world, so easiest way is to leave the medium axle in it and have fun. bigger guys v's little guys, tony kart v's other brands, bridgestone v's dunlop, hot v's cold, rain v's dry etc etc are all variations to consider for axle swaps. My recommendation for the guys that haven't used different axles before.... buy one soft, one medium and one hard. go to the track and test them in different conditions with your driver/chassis/tyre/ambient temperature and then you will know what works best for you and your package. hope that helps.
@@PowerRepublic thanks for the response,
Yes I'm new to karting and I have a FA Kart running the DFH. Been trying all sorts of things testing but putting a U axel in over the N axel has been the best change. 1 second a lap. But I don't know why or when to go back harder 😂
@@bradywebb7579 on the DFM's we have heaps of good times with the U axle for lighter drivers. If your a bigger guy then the N or H are great too,
I didn't hold the break and now my pad is rubbing on the break disk. How do i get over this issue? Thanks
Maybe the seals or magnets are damaged or need replacing
in your opinion, what is an acceptable runnout of an axle ? I got 0,3mm runnout with the dial indicator. Thanks
yrha anything under 0.30mm you can t feel. 1mm you can feel and still drive if necessary and then more than a mill and its near impossible
Thanks legend !
Hi Derek,
I have a CRG KT1 chassis with a 125 Rotax Senior and have some questions about bearings and axle:
1) My kart chassis has the space to install 3 bearings, but only has 2. Does it make any difference if I install 3 bearings?
2) is there any difference between 50-80 and 50-90 bearings?
3) I believe my axle is medium. How do I know if I need to get an softer or harder axle?
4) Which model do you recommend?
Thanks
Hi Armando,
1 - it will stiffen up the rear of the kart. if you are a big driver put it in, small driver you can leave it out.
2 - just the outside diameter. I think CRG are 90mm OD
3 - practise is the key. but get one off each and test them out in your kart at your track. generally softer keeps the rear wheels on the ground for longer, hard makes the inside rear lift earlier in the corner. Neither is a magic bullet for all conditions
4 - genuine axles are best IMO. We use OTK axles only in our Tony Kart.
Hope that helps
D
@@PowerRepublic Hi Derek, Thanks a lot
I personally remove the sprocket, then the sprocket carry, as that way when you put the new axle in, and do everything right, you don’t have to take all the time getting the chain tension right
yeah great idea DH, what type of kart racing do you do?
@@PowerRepublic primarily x30 with that being the easiest thing to find races for over here in the states, but I got an old rotax and lo206 to still have some fun in
@@dondelchulia3189 hell yeah, i heard that the Rok GP is big over there too? hey, we just got a 206 for our shop demo kart
@@PowerRepublic I’m a east coast racer and unfortunately rok gp isn’t too big over on this end I’m pretty sure I could punch my ticket to Europe if I just bought the engine. Ka100 is really taking over out there to the point even x30 is getting killed off with 60+ ka fields at nationals with maybe 30-40 in x30 and rotax has almost been completely killed with really no major series running them. I love my Briggs it’s a great skill builder and a blast when it comes to easy fun. I’m personally surprised it isn’t law to run WPK or arrows over there
What’s the size of that axle?
50mm my friend
I don’t have a yellow handled screwdriver 🪛 will a green handle still work? 😁
Where can I buy the axle busher (helping tool for picking out the axle)? Or is a DIY tool? Many thanks
www.powerrepublic.com.au/collections/go-kart-tools/products/power-republic-axle-removing-tool-axle-basher
@@PowerRepublic Great! I will order it in the near future. Hope your shop has possibility for shipping to Europe.
@@PowerRepublic always sold out
Could you or someone send me a link to where I can buy that axle set up (with bearings and all)
You can buy an axel by itself but I’m not sure if you can buy it all in one but you can easily buy it all separately I think
@@charlielongmanracing3728 need to know where to get the bearings and hubs as well
Hm. Ive never used locktight. Ive just tightened them pretty good
all good, try the loctite, works a treat
@@PowerRepublic Yup. They came loose just yesterday. Will be putting locktight on
A bit off topic but who manufactures your kart stand? Looking for something simple and compact.
dpekartsuperstore.com/products/kartech-kart-trolley-inc-2-wheels-tyres-1
What’s size is the axle
50mm in this one, but they come in 30mm and 40mm as well
Power Republic thanks definitely gonna go for the 50mm
Wizard Kelly 👍
damn I would take doing a car axle any day
👍
A type U axle? Why so soft?
Sometimes the strangest things work. we looked at the kart at the time and it just worked so we left it in.
How do you measure the break disc
the thickness or the diameter
Diameter
@@sandhands600 they are 206mm on a senior kart, and you can measure with a ruler or with some digital callipers
what's the axle material?????????!?
Steel
@@PowerRepublic How heavy is it? Also why not Aluminium?
2:58 min and the axle is out of the kart