4:19 earned a like and sub from me... so many fitness channels will just tell you to push and push until you're injured and miserable, thankyou for teaching restraint and self-monitoring for injury and over-exercising!
Thanks, I appreciate it! Yeah, the first thing I look at when I set up a person's program is to see if they're not overtraining! And a lot of the times they are.
I also find that doing circuits on a 15-degree wall helped a lot. Learning how to manage pump and still keep technical at the end stages of a set is what is going to help with sport climbing. It's incredible how pumped you get on jugs if you just keep moving. Once rested (i.e not moving and recovering on jugs) I try to do a mediumly hard crux sequence on crimps/ slopers to simulate doing a crux after a rest position. It does take a lot of time and is more useful for vert climbing. But I will definitely incorporate aspects of this training into my own.
I believe that getting stronger will not make you pump on jugs anymore! It worked for me and I was just training and climbing as I usually do, it just takes time 😊
Thank you for this input! However, I think strength is only part of the puzzle. I have a solid bouldering background, and I've done up to 7B+ BM on the Moonboard, so I consider myself quite strong. However, I would still easily get pumped. The reasons for this can be clearly seen when analyzing endurance curves from hangboard and Tindeq tests - I will cover this topic in future videos. Still, strength is definitely an enabler for building monster endurance.
@strengthclimbing I completely get your point about strength being just one part of the equation! I tried testing myself on a circuit board to see how long I could climb on jugs, and the result surprised me. After 10 minutes, I was only slightly pumped and could have easily kept going! While I haven’t climbed a 7B+ on the Moonboard yet, my pull strength is pretty high-I can do weighted pull-ups with +80kg and one-arm pull-ups fairly easily now. For me, hanging on a jug feels more like a rest at this point! Still, I totally agree with you that strength is an enabler for monster endurance-it’s fascinating how endurance curves can reveal the whole picture. Looking forward to your future videos on this topic!
@@francoclimbing 10min ??? My man I climb 8a boulder but there is no way I would hold 10min on a wall (even with jugs probably), perhaps ur more suited for lead climbing or ur just becoming a monster i dunno
@@wicowan perhaps you are a better climber then I am! Cause in all honesty with you, even if I can stay that long on the wall as you can see it doesn't mean anything if I cannot use all my power in the right way as my current grade is 7A+ :) I love bouldering and that's what I always did since I started this sport, I rarely lead and my endurance was only improving with my strength is what I noticed ( only on jugs, on crips I can do max 3 minutes) ! As well something that did help was me training for a competition so 4x4 twice a week, 15km run a week! I need to try it again and record it :)
@@francoclimbing damn keep up the good work, have been bouldering for 10+ years and my main flaw has always been endurance. So even I have all the moves in a boulder, I can do the crux and fall at the end of the climb because pumped. Maybe you don't have this problem and I see this as a huge W
I am doing this with eccentric moves as it's more efficient to build muscle, less tiring and is much better if prone to tendinitis like I am. I think eccentric moves are the future of climbing training. We are doing enough isometric and concentric moves when actually climbing.
ive done this with rock rings on and off for years. and its always worked great. My protocol was different though. I did 5 minutes on, one minute off, 4 minutes on, 1 minute off. do that all the way to 1 minute on, and then work back up
super funny i just completed my hangboard workout and had the same exact thoughts thats it doesnt help me with jugs on indoor sport routes because its not specific enough and that the position of the feet make a huge differents, nice video
Yes! Exactly! I did Repeaters for many years and my fingers got strong, but as soon as I got on a steep route, it didn't matter if it was 5.10 or 5.11, after 3-4 clips I could already feel pumped. But now I can climb 3 routes back-to-back and hardly feel tired. In fact it feels a bit silly 😂
Yes, definitely, training the half crimp is essential. First of all, it engages way more muscles than the open hand grip. It also lets you assume higher position while climbing, and a few cm can sometimes make all the difference. What's more, finger strength training has a protective role, if you ever need to half crimp on real rock, you won't easily get injured, because you'll be used to it already.
Thank you, have not thought about that half crimping engages more muscles, and maybe that's the reason you are stronger using this grip over open hand. Have thought it is mainly because the resultant force angle is better at half crimp vs open hand😅
At 5:18 you say to train power endurance at the end of a session, followed by "There is nothing more counterproductive than training finger strength when you're already tired.." Is this what was meant to be said? I am usually tired at the end of a session, hence why would I train at the end? Doesn't make more sense to train some in the beginning when we have most of our energy? Or to designate a full day to just training itself?
Ok, let me explain, if you structure your session like this: 1. Finger strength 2. Bouldering 3. Power endurance, then this is what I mean by training power endurance at the end. You don't want to do 1. Recruitment 2. Power endurance 3. Finger strength, because you'll be tired after 2. Does this make sense?
So funny-myself and a few buddies in the mid 80's would do pyramid pullups on a horizontal ladder-after each set we would heel hook one of the rungs to rest. 110 reps in all if you go from 10-1 and then back up to 10.
@@strengthclimbing It worked unbelievably well-it was hard for us to get pumped. We all climbed in the Shawangunks then and the routes are characteristically hard moves separated by a jug. If you could relax and de-pump-you were golden. I think I would torch my elbows now if I tried that now though.....
@aldiamond2804 Thanks for this input! Yes, I've heard of the Gunks. I read The Lifer by Russ Clune, and through my website I met a very strong boulderer Paul Gennaro, who's determined to repeat the toughest boulders in the Gunks. I recorded a podcast with him some time ago - it's on the channel.
Thanks! Shake out as long as you feel you need to. One of the goals of this exercise is to learn how to rest. You need to be able to gauge that you've rested enough to go on and complete the entire exercise. You may choose to rest on big jugs, and then you'll recover quickly, but you may also opt to shake out on smaller holds, which may take more time. If the holds you choose are too small, this may prove to be a "sucker rest", and instead of resting, you'll end up more pumped - it's all part of the process.
@@strengthclimbing alright, thanks for the answer : ) ! I guess the general idea is to aim to be almost at failure at the end of the pyramid ? with failure being breakdown of form for instance ?
Have to try this!💪 Also, I’m curious what you think about open-hand vs half crimp vs full crimp. I’ve been climbing for a year now, mostly bouldering, and I’ve pretty much only climbed with an open-hand grip. Would you recommend getting good at half- and full-crimp? Which grip would you focus on the most, and how can you train to improve at half- and full-crimp? I’m bouldering 6b-6c (V5) and have done a 7a (V6). I feel like if I want to climb/boulder harder, I need to learn to crimp properly. Have a beastmaker 1000 at home.
@@GRC_88 If you're going all in on this type of training and not doing anything else, which is not something I would recommend, then you can do it 3-4 times per week. But if you're combining it with gym climbing, or trips to the crag, then you must make sure you get enough recovery. You can for example incorporate it at the end of your finger strength hangboard sessions.
If you see a drill like this you feel concern that it might bring on tendinitis, that is probably a sign that you should have a conventional strength training routine that focuses on the muscles around the area where you develop tendinitis. As in, if it’s in your elbow, bicep and tricep isolation exercises like curls and skull crushers. Or if it’s your shoulder, some thing like dumbbell ohp, lateral raises, rear delt flies, front raises, and/ or any/all bench press variations would be ideal. Just saying
Such a drill can definitely aggravate tendinosis - your tendon attachments get compressed and then repetitively acted upon by high shear forces. Tendons like slow exercises with high loads, but the exercise selection depends on your exact condition.
For beginners I think a pull up bar is ok, but it will only target your large pull muscle endurance. For advanced climbers it's necessary to use progressively smaller holds.
i dont usually like videos but this is an exeption
Wow, thanks! I tried not to waste people's time and just deliver the message 😀
Wierd, kinda like a oxymoron. Since you are on youtube sir. 🤨
I don't usually correct spelling, but today is the exception. Much love :)
Thank you !!!! Start this training now - see you in 3 weeks
You go! Let me know how it went! :)
4:19 earned a like and sub from me... so many fitness channels will just tell you to push and push until you're injured and miserable, thankyou for teaching restraint and self-monitoring for injury and over-exercising!
Thanks, I appreciate it! Yeah, the first thing I look at when I set up a person's program is to see if they're not overtraining! And a lot of the times they are.
I also find that doing circuits on a 15-degree wall helped a lot. Learning how to manage pump and still keep technical at the end stages of a set is what is going to help with sport climbing. It's incredible how pumped you get on jugs if you just keep moving. Once rested (i.e not moving and recovering on jugs) I try to do a mediumly hard crux sequence on crimps/ slopers to simulate doing a crux after a rest position. It does take a lot of time and is more useful for vert climbing. But I will definitely incorporate aspects of this training into my own.
This type of training really does work
I believe that getting stronger will not make you pump on jugs anymore! It worked for me and I was just training and climbing as I usually do, it just takes time 😊
Thank you for this input! However, I think strength is only part of the puzzle. I have a solid bouldering background, and I've done up to 7B+ BM on the Moonboard, so I consider myself quite strong. However, I would still easily get pumped. The reasons for this can be clearly seen when analyzing endurance curves from hangboard and Tindeq tests - I will cover this topic in future videos. Still, strength is definitely an enabler for building monster endurance.
@strengthclimbing I completely get your point about strength being just one part of the equation! I tried testing myself on a circuit board to see how long I could climb on jugs, and the result surprised me. After 10 minutes, I was only slightly pumped and could have easily kept going! While I haven’t climbed a 7B+ on the Moonboard yet, my pull strength is pretty high-I can do weighted pull-ups with +80kg and one-arm pull-ups fairly easily now. For me, hanging on a jug feels more like a rest at this point! Still, I totally agree with you that strength is an enabler for monster endurance-it’s fascinating how endurance curves can reveal the whole picture. Looking forward to your future videos on this topic!
@@francoclimbing 10min ??? My man I climb 8a boulder but there is no way I would hold 10min on a wall (even with jugs probably), perhaps ur more suited for lead climbing or ur just becoming a monster i dunno
@@wicowan perhaps you are a better climber then I am! Cause in all honesty with you, even if I can stay that long on the wall as you can see it doesn't mean anything if I cannot use all my power in the right way as my current grade is 7A+ :) I love bouldering and that's what I always did since I started this sport, I rarely lead and my endurance was only improving with my strength is what I noticed ( only on jugs, on crips I can do max 3 minutes) ! As well something that did help was me training for a competition so 4x4 twice a week, 15km run a week! I need to try it again and record it :)
@@francoclimbing damn keep up the good work, have been bouldering for 10+ years and my main flaw has always been endurance. So even I have all the moves in a boulder, I can do the crux and fall at the end of the climb because pumped. Maybe you don't have this problem and I see this as a huge W
thank you . very informative video. will use this in my training starting next week :)
Glad it was helpful!
I am doing this with eccentric moves as it's more efficient to build muscle, less tiring and is much better if prone to tendinitis like I am. I think eccentric moves are the future of climbing training. We are doing enough isometric and concentric moves when actually climbing.
ive done this with rock rings on and off for years. and its always worked great. My protocol was different though. I did 5 minutes on, one minute off, 4 minutes on, 1 minute off. do that all the way to 1 minute on, and then work back up
@@waltermiller6614 Love it! Different approach, but still a pyramid - good idea, I'm gonna try that!
super funny i just completed my hangboard workout and had the same exact thoughts thats it doesnt help me with jugs on indoor sport routes because its not specific enough and that the position of the feet make a huge differents, nice video
Yes! Exactly! I did Repeaters for many years and my fingers got strong, but as soon as I got on a steep route, it didn't matter if it was 5.10 or 5.11, after 3-4 clips I could already feel pumped. But now I can climb 3 routes back-to-back and hardly feel tired. In fact it feels a bit silly 😂
Fajnie przedstawione, widac ile pracy w to włożyłeś. Szacun 🤝
Hahaha, dzięki! Tak, krótki filmik potrafi zabrać kupę czasu, ale warto - to ćwiczenie jest tak skuteczne, że to aż głupie 😂
Yes, definitely, training the half crimp is essential. First of all, it engages way more muscles than the open hand grip. It also lets you assume higher position while climbing, and a few cm can sometimes make all the difference. What's more, finger strength training has a protective role, if you ever need to half crimp on real rock, you won't easily get injured, because you'll be used to it already.
Thank you, have not thought about that half crimping engages more muscles, and maybe that's the reason you are stronger using this grip over open hand. Have thought it is mainly because the resultant force angle is better at half crimp vs open hand😅
thank you
nice! I hope this is effective
Thanks!
when you are pulling should you try to assist with your feet as much as possible?
At 5:18 you say to train power endurance at the end of a session, followed by "There is nothing more counterproductive than training finger strength when you're already tired.." Is this what was meant to be said? I am usually tired at the end of a session, hence why would I train at the end? Doesn't make more sense to train some in the beginning when we have most of our energy? Or to designate a full day to just training itself?
Ok, let me explain, if you structure your session like this: 1. Finger strength 2. Bouldering 3. Power endurance, then this is what I mean by training power endurance at the end. You don't want to do 1. Recruitment 2. Power endurance 3. Finger strength, because you'll be tired after 2. Does this make sense?
@@strengthclimbing ahhh okay, thanks for the clarification!! Any tips on climbing outdoors for the first time?!
First time? I don't know, find a nice crag, choose something easy and have fun :)
Can I give you advice? Just enjoy climbing if you are starting, dont brother with finger training until you get to 7a
So funny-myself and a few buddies in the mid 80's would do pyramid pullups on a horizontal ladder-after each set we would heel hook one of the rungs to rest. 110 reps in all if you go from 10-1 and then back up to 10.
Dit it work well for you?
@@strengthclimbing It worked unbelievably well-it was hard for us to get pumped. We all climbed in the Shawangunks then and the routes are characteristically hard moves separated by a jug. If you could relax and de-pump-you were golden. I think I would torch my elbows now if I tried that now though.....
@aldiamond2804 Thanks for this input! Yes, I've heard of the Gunks. I read The Lifer by Russ Clune, and through my website I met a very strong boulderer Paul Gennaro, who's determined to repeat the toughest boulders in the Gunks. I recorded a podcast with him some time ago - it's on the channel.
thanks for the great video : ) ! one question, how long should the "shake out" be when going from one number of reps to another ?
Thanks! Shake out as long as you feel you need to. One of the goals of this exercise is to learn how to rest. You need to be able to gauge that you've rested enough to go on and complete the entire exercise. You may choose to rest on big jugs, and then you'll recover quickly, but you may also opt to shake out on smaller holds, which may take more time. If the holds you choose are too small, this may prove to be a "sucker rest", and instead of resting, you'll end up more pumped - it's all part of the process.
@@strengthclimbing alright, thanks for the answer : ) ! I guess the general idea is to aim to be almost at failure at the end of the pyramid ? with failure being breakdown of form for instance ?
Can I do this exercise after a finguer hang session?
Yes, definitely, you can combine it with finger strength sessions or bouldering, just make sure you do it at the end of the session.
Duży progres idzie na tym zrobić?W bulderingu jestem na ok 6c ale nijak to na linę sie nie przekłada a fajnie byłoby pocisnać jakieś 7a
Myślę, że jeśli próbujesz przerzucić się z boulderingu na liny, to takie ćwiczenia bardzo Ci pomogą!
Should you try to pull only with the arms or try to support as much as possible with the legs?
stand on your feet
push off with toes
then pull
I guess you should try to mimic a similar movement to what would happen when you climb an hoverhang
Have to try this!💪
Also, I’m curious what you think about open-hand vs half crimp vs full crimp. I’ve been climbing for a year now, mostly bouldering, and I’ve pretty much only climbed with an open-hand grip. Would you recommend getting good at half- and full-crimp? Which grip would you focus on the most, and how can you train to improve at half- and full-crimp?
I’m bouldering 6b-6c (V5) and have done a 7a (V6). I feel like if I want to climb/boulder harder, I need to learn to crimp properly. Have a beastmaker 1000 at home.
What's the frequency of this training? 3 times per week is ok?
@@GRC_88 If you're going all in on this type of training and not doing anything else, which is not something I would recommend, then you can do it 3-4 times per week. But if you're combining it with gym climbing, or trips to the crag, then you must make sure you get enough recovery. You can for example incorporate it at the end of your finger strength hangboard sessions.
@@strengthclimbingperfect. Thanks!
Did 2 sets and I'm pretty sure I've strained my arm in some way
This guy studied all the physio-training-dude buzz words
I wish you had better mic. It sounds so muffled now
@@deivytrajan will work on the sound quality!
is the gym footage from avatar in krakow?
It is.
I might try this, but do you think it is likely to bring on/aggravate tendinitis?
If you see a drill like this you feel concern that it might bring on tendinitis, that is probably a sign that you should have a conventional strength training routine that focuses on the muscles around the area where you develop tendinitis. As in, if it’s in your elbow, bicep and tricep isolation exercises like curls and skull crushers. Or if it’s your shoulder, some thing like dumbbell ohp, lateral raises, rear delt flies, front raises, and/ or any/all bench press variations would be ideal. Just saying
Such a drill can definitely aggravate tendinosis - your tendon attachments get compressed and then repetitively acted upon by high shear forces. Tendons like slow exercises with high loads, but the exercise selection depends on your exact condition.
do you think it would be ok to do this with a pull up bar? or is the grip position a bit too different than your typical jug?
For beginners I think a pull up bar is ok, but it will only target your large pull muscle endurance. For advanced climbers it's necessary to use progressively smaller holds.
It’s not a climbing training video if the host isn’t wearing a puffy and toque indoors.
Dude, my garage isn't heated, it was like 2 degC! 😂
Baby its cold inside;)
Not exactly new ideas. But useful for those who are slow to develop their range of training.
Not new, but often overlooked, and it works!
Nice ai thumbnail I really want to trust the advice of a guy too lazy to take a picture of himself or anyone else pulling on a jug 👍
Hahaha, I did take such a photo, it's in the video! I just didn't think it was as eye catching.
bit early in the video asking for a like and subscribe