Great video! LG Service center offers $400 flat rate service, which is way too high. So I opened the cabinet, but, unfortunately, all the sensors seem fine. Not sure what is the next.
Someone else mentioned all their components tested good. If all the components that I showed in the video are testing good AND you have ensured that there is no lint clogged in the airways, then your next thing to look at is the control board (motherboard).
Excellent video. I just need to find the specs for mine! Working on washers and dryers is a dream compared to most other appliances. Lots of lint, but otherwise very clean.
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck working on yours. Aside from lint, the other downside of working on my dryer was the sharp metal edges. I wasn't wearing gloves and I got cut like three times, haha.
Great and helpful video. Just have one problem. My dryer still does not heat. All the components check out along your instructions. I even rigged it so that I can see the igniter glow. I have gas into to dryer. The solenoid resistance is within spec. But I don’t get any gas flow and thus no ignition and heat. Running out of ideas. Any thoughts?
That's a tough one. I wonder if maybe it still detects a restriction in air flow. Did you clear lint from all the air flow areas inside the dryer? I tested my dryer without the exhaust duct connected in case there is a clog that I can't see in the vent line leading outside.
Yes, I had it disconnected from the vent line just exhausting into the laundry room for testing. Is there a way to test if the gas valve gets the right electric signal? That way I would know if it’s the valve or the control board. Last possible hint, the “dry” light is flashing
@@MichaelRuith-k8k If you have no air restrictions and all the components are within specs, then I agree that the next area to look at is the control board. I don't know how to test the gas solenoids manually. I initially ordered a used gas valve with solenoids included for about $40 on EBay. I thought the coils were bad because everyone was testing the other style coils with continuity test. The replacement valve coils gave the same resistance readings as my current gas valve coils so that's how I knew the gas valve was good and I didn't replace it. If you find the solution to your problem, let me know the solution so I can add the info in the video description. Here is a reddit thread where someone was having a similar problem and troubleshooting this issue. www.reddit.com/r/appliancerepair/comments/16tl14f/lg_gas_dryer_wont_send_power_to_ignitor_after_the/
@@MichaelRuith-k8k In this other youtube video ruclips.net/video/Y_0f_h1pWd8/видео.htmlsi=0FENpiurv2lGHBr4 the tech says the board is supposed to send 24V (or whatever voltage is listed on the valve) to the gas valve to open it when the dryer is running. You can connect your multimeter leads to the connector and turn on the dryer and see if the board is sending 24V to the solenoid.
Very likely the controller board. Capacitor CE401 is blown up. Sad thing for a 2 year old dryer, but was likely a bad component out of the gate. Invested $250 for a new board. I’ll let you know if that solves the issue. Thanks for the support!
You're the first person to comment on this video. Thank you for the feedback! Took me some time to learn how to troubleshoot it. Good luck working on your dryer! =)
The thermostat usually cuts out when there is a clog or restriction somewhere in the venting system causing an increase in the heat inside the dryer. It could be a clog or restriction in the vent tube going out from the dryer or inside the dryer itself. Make sure all the vents and air passages are clear inside the dryer. Also check under the lint filter, lint gets through and clogs the blower. To test whether there is a clog in the exhaust vent tube, you could disconnect the dryer from the back of the dryer and see if it continues to turn off. Is the thermostat resetting or completely shorting out? Are you using an OEM thermostat part?
@@javiermorando4616 It's dead so you'll need to replace it. But when you replace it check for clogs in the vent and exhaust system as I mentioned above.
*UPDATES and additional information in the video description!*
Great video! LG Service center offers $400 flat rate service, which is way too high. So I opened the cabinet, but, unfortunately, all the sensors seem fine. Not sure what is the next.
Someone else mentioned all their components tested good. If all the components that I showed in the video are testing good AND you have ensured that there is no lint clogged in the airways, then your next thing to look at is the control board (motherboard).
Excellent video. I just need to find the specs for mine! Working on washers and dryers is a dream compared to most other appliances. Lots of lint, but otherwise very clean.
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck working on yours. Aside from lint, the other downside of working on my dryer was the sharp metal edges. I wasn't wearing gloves and I got cut like three times, haha.
Great and helpful video. Just have one problem. My dryer still does not heat. All the components check out along your instructions. I even rigged it so that I can see the igniter glow. I have gas into to dryer. The solenoid resistance is within spec. But I don’t get any gas flow and thus no ignition and heat. Running out of ideas. Any thoughts?
That's a tough one. I wonder if maybe it still detects a restriction in air flow. Did you clear lint from all the air flow areas inside the dryer? I tested my dryer without the exhaust duct connected in case there is a clog that I can't see in the vent line leading outside.
Yes, I had it disconnected from the vent line just exhausting into the laundry room for testing. Is there a way to test if the gas valve gets the right electric signal? That way I would know if it’s the valve or the control board. Last possible hint, the “dry” light is flashing
@@MichaelRuith-k8k If you have no air restrictions and all the components are within specs, then I agree that the next area to look at is the control board. I don't know how to test the gas solenoids manually. I initially ordered a used gas valve with solenoids included for about $40 on EBay. I thought the coils were bad because everyone was testing the other style coils with continuity test. The replacement valve coils gave the same resistance readings as my current gas valve coils so that's how I knew the gas valve was good and I didn't replace it. If you find the solution to your problem, let me know the solution so I can add the info in the video description. Here is a reddit thread where someone was having a similar problem and troubleshooting this issue. www.reddit.com/r/appliancerepair/comments/16tl14f/lg_gas_dryer_wont_send_power_to_ignitor_after_the/
@@MichaelRuith-k8k In this other youtube video ruclips.net/video/Y_0f_h1pWd8/видео.htmlsi=0FENpiurv2lGHBr4 the tech says the board is supposed to send 24V (or whatever voltage is listed on the valve) to the gas valve to open it when the dryer is running. You can connect your multimeter leads to the connector and turn on the dryer and see if the board is sending 24V to the solenoid.
Very likely the controller board. Capacitor CE401 is blown up. Sad thing for a 2 year old dryer, but was likely a bad component out of the gate. Invested $250 for a new board. I’ll let you know if that solves the issue. Thanks for the support!
Great video. Thank you
You're the first person to comment on this video. Thank you for the feedback! Took me some time to learn how to troubleshoot it. Good luck working on your dryer! =)
I find it interesting that three people gave my video a thumbs down, haha. Ya can't please everyone =)
@@ChavezDIY I just followed your steps and fixes my dryer.
So i did everything you said and the top thermostat on the burner side keeps going out. Any suggestions
The thermostat usually cuts out when there is a clog or restriction somewhere in the venting system causing an increase in the heat inside the dryer. It could be a clog or restriction in the vent tube going out from the dryer or inside the dryer itself. Make sure all the vents and air passages are clear inside the dryer. Also check under the lint filter, lint gets through and clogs the blower. To test whether there is a clog in the exhaust vent tube, you could disconnect the dryer from the back of the dryer and see if it continues to turn off. Is the thermostat resetting or completely shorting out? Are you using an OEM thermostat part?
@@ChavezDIY upper reads no more continuity
@@javiermorando4616 It's dead so you'll need to replace it. But when you replace it check for clogs in the vent and exhaust system as I mentioned above.
Well took it apart again so far so good. Thanks @@ChavezDIY