@@chrizzz619 Thanks for the videos man. I did all of my stuff to my Speed3 by myself, but we had a HUGE forum full of literally anything you could want. Since there are so few of this car on the road getting info seems very limited to people like yourself. So I really appreciate it.
Just ran across your channel. Really diggin' the way you pause and point out where all the fasteners are. Great work, you should speak up a little too but that's up to you, ha. Keep it up!!!
Awesome car, my Tuscon unfortunately is g4fj 1.6 with catless dpipe both ,scorcher gt 77-47001,60mm TB with rear wiper pump to intercooler spray., custom cai with box.. it wheel hops I also think 245/45/19 is horrible so 18s!
Great video! Plan on doing the RMM install this weekend. Curious as to where you got the pivoting wrench tool from/what it’s actually called? Looks super convenient to have. Thanks!
If you’re talking about the ratcheting wrench I got it from harbor freight :) I also put some links on the description of the video to similar tools that you can get from Amazon :)
Great videos man! Since you did both at the same time i'm not sure you can answer this question haha. I've got the lower engine mount already done. Do you think doing the upper would add a ton more NVH?
Yea it adds a bit more NVH when adding the upper. I originally just had the lower mount for a week or less but it was a while ago so can’t remember exactly how much more nvh was added but you do get a bit more, after a while you get used to it though, it’s not that bad in my opinion
@@chrizzz619 I just added the tmm a week or two after doing the rmm. Both ttr. The added performance from the tmm isn't worth the nvh imo, but I just put it on tonight. Does it relax quite a bit eventually or no? I may just go back to oem tmm if it does not since the rmm added barely any.
Hodei Zubikarai you definitely get added NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness) but in my opinion it’s worth the added NVH for what you get. The car to me feels more “raw” if that makes sense lol. You notice the vibrations more when taking off from 1st gear or reverse but I can daily drive it it doesn’t bother me! The vibrations also settle down a bit after about 100 miles, either that or I just got used to it haha either way the vibrations are bearable
I have TurboTech Upper and Read Mounts and I can say the same thing. Its almost like all the noises you WANT to hear are amplified. The car certainly feels more raw but these paired with the adjustable short shifter from Forge kit give the car an entirely different feel.
utspoolup Let me know how you like them when you get them installed :) I personally think that the motor mounts are one of the best things I’ve done to the car! Makes it feel much better and you get no more wheel hop!
Great video. Just a bit confused on the loctite. You put in on before installing the mount into the engine bay. Then after the loctite has set you then want to torque the bolt? Just seems like this would break the loctite from it's set position, just curious as to how this would work
Steelers1thegame thanks! Loctite takes about 10 min to start settling and about 24 hours to fully settle (according to loctite) I put the loctite and right away installed the mount and then torqued the bolt down. I haven’t had any problems since installing the motor mount so it all should be good as long as you don’t apply the loctite and Torque the bolt down a day later :)
Which engine mount change made the biggest difference? I get horrendous wheel hope and loss of traction on hard acceleration. Does changing the rear motor mount solve this problem?
Changing the RMM to a stiffer one definitely eliminated the wheel hop for me, I had just the RMM at first then I installed the Upper motor mount and it just made the car perfect in my opinion 👍 you do get a lot more added NVH tho
@@Velosy_ I mean I personally don’t find it uncomfortable, but then again I’m used to cars with stiffer suspensions so the added NVH from the mounts aren’t a big deal to me, I personally wouldn’t find a problem using it for a daily family car.
Im not sure! It’s the same motor but might be slightly different due to it being a different car, but I haven’t personally worked on a Kona N so I can’t say for sure.
Can i buy this mount and install it on the veloster base models? The motor mount says for turbo buy my car is base. My right motor mount is leaking and i want to do it myself. Someone plz help me
Didn't notice the other torque specs weren't included in the video. For the 17mm bolt and nuts, tighten anywhere between 46.9-54.2 lb-ft, for the 14mm nut and bolts you do anywhere from 36.2-47 lb-ft. thanks for commenting and ill update the description
bodie larsen they are rally armor mudflaps, if you go to my other video on how to install rally armor mudflaps you’ll find the part number for it. You can only order them from Canadian dealerships though
If you're only doing the upper mount you can save a lot of time from the instructions they send with it. First, it's a bit easier to get the mount in position if you slide it under the bottle. Also, if you have a long enough 15/16th or 24mm wrench to oppose your torque wrench, tightening the main bolt to 160ft lbs is much easier outside of the car because you don't have to remove the fender liner or jack the car up at all then. Using an engine hoist on the two lifting eyes on the engine is also easier than using a jack unde the pan because then you don't have to remove the belly pan. Total time to do it this way is cut down to about 30 minutes.
Hey everyone! I linked the tools and products needed for the install in the video description!
I'm not even sure I plan on changing anything on my N, but I love watching your videos.
Jeromy Williams thanks for watching!! 👍
@@chrizzz619 Thanks for the videos man. I did all of my stuff to my Speed3 by myself, but we had a HUGE forum full of literally anything you could want. Since there are so few of this car on the road getting info seems very limited to people like yourself. So I really appreciate it.
Just ran across your channel. Really diggin' the way you pause and point out where all the fasteners are. Great work, you should speak up a little too but that's up to you, ha. Keep it up!!!
Thanks for watching and thanks for your feedback! I appreciate it
For the price the veloster n is the best hot hatch or sport car you can buy in the market 💪🏻💪🏻
Love videos that are straight to the point, thanks for not yapping about how beautiful the whether is and what your about to do 😂
Nicely done!
Thanks! And thanks for the products you guys make for our cars :)
Awesome car, my Tuscon unfortunately is g4fj 1.6 with catless dpipe both ,scorcher gt 77-47001,60mm TB with rear wiper pump to intercooler spray., custom cai with box.. it wheel hops I also think 245/45/19 is horrible so 18s!
Great video! Plan on doing the RMM install this weekend. Curious as to where you got the pivoting wrench tool from/what it’s actually called? Looks super convenient to have. Thanks!
If you’re talking about the ratcheting wrench I got it from harbor freight :) I also put some links on the description of the video to similar tools that you can get from Amazon :)
great video man!
Great videos man! Since you did both at the same time i'm not sure you can answer this question haha. I've got the lower engine mount already done. Do you think doing the upper would add a ton more NVH?
Yea it adds a bit more NVH when adding the upper. I originally just had the lower mount for a week or less but it was a while ago so can’t remember exactly how much more nvh was added but you do get a bit more, after a while you get used to it though, it’s not that bad in my opinion
@@chrizzz619 I just added the tmm a week or two after doing the rmm. Both ttr. The added performance from the tmm isn't worth the nvh imo, but I just put it on tonight. Does it relax quite a bit eventually or no? I may just go back to oem tmm if it does not since the rmm added barely any.
Hi!,what about vibrations? You can daily drive it?
Hodei Zubikarai you definitely get added NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness) but in my opinion it’s worth the added NVH for what you get. The car to me feels more “raw” if that makes sense lol. You notice the vibrations more when taking off from 1st gear or reverse but I can daily drive it it doesn’t bother me! The vibrations also settle down a bit after about 100 miles, either that or I just got used to it haha either way the vibrations are bearable
I have TurboTech Upper and Read Mounts and I can say the same thing. Its almost like all the noises you WANT to hear are amplified. The car certainly feels more raw but these paired with the adjustable short shifter from Forge kit give the car an entirely different feel.
Subbed, and like the jack stand pads. Great video, going to have to pick this motor mount up myself.
utspoolup Let me know how you like them when you get them installed :) I personally think that the motor mounts are one of the best things I’ve done to the car! Makes it feel much better and you get no more wheel hop!
Very helpful video !
Miguel Yerena Thanks for watching!
Great video. Just a bit confused on the loctite. You put in on before installing the mount into the engine bay. Then after the loctite has set you then want to torque the bolt? Just seems like this would break the loctite from it's set position, just curious as to how this would work
Steelers1thegame thanks! Loctite takes about 10 min to start settling and about 24 hours to fully settle (according to loctite) I put the loctite and right away installed the mount and then torqued the bolt down. I haven’t had any problems since installing the motor mount so it all should be good as long as you don’t apply the loctite and Torque the bolt down a day later :)
@@chrizzz619 Appreciate the reply! Keep up the good videos here, really enjoy seeing the content on the how to section of the VN forum. Take care
Did the top Mount help your launch at all?
It definitely helps on launches with wheel hop
Which engine mount change made the biggest difference?
I get horrendous wheel hope and loss of traction on hard acceleration.
Does changing the rear motor mount solve this problem?
Changing the RMM to a stiffer one definitely eliminated the wheel hop for me, I had just the RMM at first then I installed the Upper motor mount and it just made the car perfect in my opinion 👍 you do get a lot more added NVH tho
@@chrizzz619 thanks. NVH=???
@@dougmaverick3287 yes, Noise Vibration and Harshness
@@chrizzz619 only with the RMM, is the NVH get too noticeable?, can i still use as family daily car?
@@Velosy_ I mean I personally don’t find it uncomfortable, but then again I’m used to cars with stiffer suspensions so the added NVH from the mounts aren’t a big deal to me, I personally wouldn’t find a problem using it for a daily family car.
I think it's the same on kona n, no?
Im not sure! It’s the same motor but might be slightly different due to it being a different car, but I haven’t personally worked on a Kona N so I can’t say for sure.
Can i buy this mount and install it on the veloster base models? The motor mount says for turbo buy my car is base. My right motor mount is leaking and i want to do it myself. Someone plz help me
I’m not 100% sure, I would message the company directly and have them tell you if it’ll fit your car or not, that’s your best bet!
what are the torque specs?
Didn't notice the other torque specs weren't included in the video.
For the 17mm bolt and nuts, tighten anywhere between 46.9-54.2 lb-ft, for the 14mm nut and bolts you do anywhere from 36.2-47 lb-ft. thanks for commenting and ill update the description
do you think it will work for ther Elantra N 2022 ?
I would message the companies that make the motor mounts and ask them, I can’t confirm if it would or wouldn’t fit an Elantra N
Was there a weight difference in the mounts?
Didn’t weigh them but the stock ones from what I remember are a bit heavier
@@chrizzz619 Thank you
What mud flaps are those?
bodie larsen they are rally armor mudflaps, if you go to my other video on how to install rally armor mudflaps you’ll find the part number for it. You can only order them from Canadian dealerships though
If you're only doing the upper mount you can save a lot of time from the instructions they send with it. First, it's a bit easier to get the mount in position if you slide it under the bottle. Also, if you have a long enough 15/16th or 24mm wrench to oppose your torque wrench, tightening the main bolt to 160ft lbs is much easier outside of the car because you don't have to remove the fender liner or jack the car up at all then. Using an engine hoist on the two lifting eyes on the engine is also easier than using a jack unde the pan because then you don't have to remove the belly pan. Total time to do it this way is cut down to about 30 minutes.
Thanks for your tips! :)