In my experience as a welder for 20 years, I believe that you are the best and most complete welder that I have seen so far and the most important thing is that you are not boastful, you are simply a man who knows what he is doing and in all metals.
Back when I was in welding school in the last century :) I was told that cup-walking was for mornings when the DT's were so bad your hands were shaking. I don't know about that, but I love cup-walking fillets, and I find it a constant source of annoyance that I can't cup-walk outside corners, which seems like all I do with TIG these days (repair, not fabrication).
Jodi I do have to say I've been following your channel since the very beginning of me picking up a TIG torch and all the following that I've seen with techniques and everything with TIG welding everybody is different with doing something and I think that it makes it kind of confusing for a newbie to follow who they want to follow and what to do with TIG welding. I would definitely say I started out following Justin at TFS learning how to TIG weld and I find it more defined an educational following you and TIG welding than him you got better techniques you're a lot slower and you're more methodical and showing what is the proper way of doing it and what are the wrong ways of doing it. And that's standing there I will say I do appreciate the videos you put out and appreciate all the information that you give and also too I do have to say thank you for picking up on the primeweld tig 225 x that was the biggest thing that I had having problems of wrapping my hands around on because everybody was like a script with the machine when I initially got it and you actually tested the machine and actually telling the truth that it had options like a high-end machine keep up the good work and thank you...
Thanks for the advice. I'll be ready to try soon. I don't have a fancy machine that can taper off yet but it's still nice to know how you use it. Much appreciated!
Hey I wanted to ask, do americans weld aluminum with a pulse Mig machine? Ive never seen a video about it, in Europe its pretty common to use pulse setting with a regular Fronius machine, beads come out white and clean, not dirty and irregular like the spool gun many people use.
For a titanium weld test on some .040 silver color is mandatory……..full penetration, also mandatory. To work for an aerospace welding company, do those companies use plus size cups for weld tests or even on their product line? Is it easier to achieve both standards with a bigger weld cup? I’ve been focusing on getting good color and letting everything else take the back seat, to an extent. Should we gain the experience in our garages before taking to a facility?
there is no telling what a company will provide as far as cups and trailing shields. I have a friend who tested for an aerospace welding job and all they had was the large diameter gas lens collet bodies. But if the fixture is adjustable, chill bars can be set close to the weld and will often pull enough heat away that a #10 cup is sufficient to achieve silver color. here is a video I posted a while back using a #10 cup showing that concept
Outstanding video, Jody. Any chance of doing a 2F 6-bead to joint on 1/4 steel with TIG? Kinda having trouble with that in school for some reason. Doing the lay wire technique and this joint just will not come out like it is supposed to. The root goes in fine, but subsequent passes are harder to get in for some reason.
I will put it on the list but you will probably be done before I could get it shot lol. But let me ask some details anyway...Is it a tee joint? stringers or weave? and are you required to do lay wire? Any particular size wire? If root goes in good, but subsequent passes go bad , it could be surface oxidation so a gas lens might help along with letting it cool between passes along with wire brushing every pass.
@@weldingtipsandtricks Hi Jody. No worries. I`m sure it will take time to get videos out. I can answer your questions though. 1) 2F T-joint on 1/4 carbon steel plate. 2) stringers (but slight weave) and I`m required to do lay wire for some reason. Walking the cup is not allowed at all BTW. My instructor wants 6 beads. 3) 1/8 ER70S-6 filler rod. I`m welding @ 140amps on a Lincoln Aspect using Hi-freq start W/ a foot pedal. We also use gas lenses on our torches with #6 cups at ~30CFH. Maybe some surface oxidation, but only the "pretty colors" ;) I can get the root in OK, but getting the other passes in is a little harder for some reason. I made on that looked decent, but my instructor is making me keep trying as the beads favored the bottom plate too much. The problem I have is that subsequent passes are not always flowing right. Meaning they do not always flatten out but can crown up too much and don`t tie into each other. He said I might have been adding too much filler metal (not sure how, maybe too much pressure on the rod?) I try to keep the torch and filler rod at about 90 degrees. I`m running a slight push angle on my torch, but currently, I can only get a decent bead if I push the weld towards me a bit for some reason. I also have to hold the torch handle almost parallel to the joint and it makes my hand hot rather quickly. The first pass is put in at 45 degrees and then the torch angle needs to come up a bit with subsequent passes. My instructor said to point the filler rod and tungsten at the center of the root for the second pass. It is such a simple joint, but it is causing me issues for some reason. It is probably a simple fix once I get it, but now it is a little hard. I don`t know what the issue is. My gut tells me some kind of torch angle problem but I`m not sure. I`ll be talking with my instructor about it more on Monday, but I greatly appreciate any advice you can give me. Keep the videos coming Jody. I always love watching your channel. It is always fun and informative, and you were a big inspiration to learn welding. Thank you for everything. Connor
@@connormarek1028 Don't run 30 cfh on a #6 gas lens, you could probably run 12 and that's more than enough. Turbulence? Other than that, sounds like you're doing things right on paper.
@@MikeYurbasovich Thanks. I`ll try turning the flowmeter down a bit. Yeah, it sounds like stuff is good on paper, but something is out of whack. I`m sure I`ll get it eventually, but I just don`t want to be stuck on one joint for too long.
@connormarek1028 Turn down the cfh anywhere from 10-15 its usually 2 x the cup size could be that the excess argon is cooling down your weld too much and not letting your puddle wet out as well as causing turbulence also if your pass is favoring the bottom plate on any horizontal position I always place my filler higher than I normally would in other positions to counter act gravity that way once gravity does its thing your bead ends up right where you want it hope this helps.
That lay down filler rod technique looks easier than feeding it. Is there a reason why this technique can’t be used other welding positions? Thanks ,Jody. John One other question: have to tig weld a t joint on 3/8 in stainless. Do I have to root pass this and weld over or could I do it in one go. ? Amp ? Volt settings I am just a hobbyist welder. Thanks again
If you mean can you drag the bead along instead of leading it, no TIG always has to be advanced into the filler. No room to do it backwards and the filler would pile up behind the weld, and constantly foul the electrode. You want the arc pointed at the root of the joint, no more than an electrode width off the material being welded.
You're conflating two ideas. First, TIG can also be done with a steel clothes hanger, provided it's clean of all paint and grease. It's just a filler metal. But to your base question, you don't need a shielding gas with oxy-acetylene, because you are welding with a gas already, and the combustion of said gas provides a shield for the weld from our atmosphere. It's built into the process, unlike methods which utilize the heat from an electrical arc. The heat of the burning gases also burns paint off your crappy old coathanger, which if done thoroughly, can prevent you from needing to clean it off like you do for TIG, on your questionable repair. All forms of welding benefit from clean base metals and filler metals. No chance for inclusions if you keep it clean. Save the coat hangers for cleaning drains or chinese steel production, and get some ER-70S2 for that weld.
Jodi I do have to say I've been following your channel since the very beginning of me picking up a TIG torch and all the following that I've seen with techniques and everything with TIG welding everybody is different with doing something and I think that it makes it kind of confusing for a newbie to follow who they want to follow and what to do with TIG welding. I would definitely say I started out following Justin at TFS learning how to TIG weld and I find it more defined an educational following you and TIG welding than him you got better techniques you're a lot slower and you're more methodical and showing what is the proper way of doing it and what are the wrong ways of doing it. And that's standing there I will say I do appreciate the videos you put out and appreciate all the information that you give and also too I do have to say thank you for picking up on the primeweld tig 225 x that was the biggest thing that I had having problems of wrapping my hands around on because everybody was like a script with the machine when I initially got it and you actually tested the machine and actually telling the truth that it had options like a high-end machine keep up the good work and thank you...
Jody is literally the Bob Ross of the welding world.
Well said
Definitely 💯
You're not wrong
Best arc shots on RUclips !!!
In my experience as a welder for 20 years, I believe that you are the best and most complete welder that I have seen so far and the most important thing is that you are not boastful, you are simply a man who knows what he is doing and in all metals.
Back when I was in welding school in the last century :) I was told that cup-walking was for mornings when the DT's were so bad your hands were shaking. I don't know about that, but I love cup-walking fillets, and I find it a constant source of annoyance that I can't cup-walk outside corners, which seems like all I do with TIG these days (repair, not fabrication).
Jodi I do have to say I've been following your channel since the very beginning of me picking up a TIG torch and all the following that I've seen with techniques and everything with TIG welding everybody is different with doing something and I think that it makes it kind of confusing for a newbie to follow who they want to follow and what to do with TIG welding. I would definitely say I started out following Justin at TFS learning how to TIG weld and I find it more defined an educational following you and TIG welding than him you got better techniques you're a lot slower and you're more methodical and showing what is the proper way of doing it and what are the wrong ways of doing it. And that's standing there I will say I do appreciate the videos you put out and appreciate all the information that you give and also too I do have to say thank you for picking up on the primeweld tig 225 x that was the biggest thing that I had having problems of wrapping my hands around on because everybody was like a script with the machine when I initially got it and you actually tested the machine and actually telling the truth that it had options like a high-end machine keep up the good work and thank you...
Quality content and information as usual, thank you sir
I have been a fan of yours for years, I always enjoy when you upload a new video
Great vid thanks for the tips
Thanks for the advice. I'll be ready to try soon. I don't have a fancy machine that can taper off yet but it's still nice to know how you use it. Much appreciated!
Hey I wanted to ask, do americans weld aluminum with a pulse Mig machine? Ive never seen a video about it, in Europe its pretty common to use pulse setting with a regular Fronius machine, beads come out white and clean, not dirty and irregular like the spool gun many people use.
I was taught you can't use a MIG machine to weld aluminum (only a TIG method works)... 🤔😕
Someone has been feeding BS
@@davidbolhathen welding biofuel tanks would take me months with only tig😂, do american academies teach something else beside stick and pipes?
Sure we do it all the time. Just not many videos on it. Miller, Lincoln, and others have push pull systems that pulse.
I didn't learn anything pulse in the late 90's at weld tech. School but yes we pulse mig aluminum all the time
Very nice I’m teaching my guys both these ways one student is doing an awesome job he loves the jazzy 10 cup
I love walking the cup on stainless
Eres un chingón maestro saludos desde el edo de Puebla Mexico
Super démos de techniques de soudages et merci pour les réglages.
Merci
Always great videos thank you
Another good video Jody .:)
Good stuff, appreciate your lessons sir!
For a titanium weld test on some .040 silver color is mandatory……..full penetration, also mandatory. To work for an aerospace welding company, do those companies use plus size cups for weld tests or even on their product line? Is it easier to achieve both standards with a bigger weld cup? I’ve been focusing on getting good color and letting everything else take the back seat, to an extent. Should we gain the experience in our garages before taking to a facility?
there is no telling what a company will provide as far as cups and trailing shields. I have a friend who tested for an aerospace welding job and all they had was the large diameter gas lens collet bodies. But if the fixture is adjustable, chill bars can be set close to the weld and will often pull enough heat away that a #10 cup is sufficient to achieve silver color. here is a video I posted a while back using a #10 cup showing that concept
Never been first before - couldn't sleep...
Outstanding video, Jody. Any chance of doing a 2F 6-bead to joint on 1/4 steel with TIG? Kinda having trouble with that in school for some reason. Doing the lay wire technique and this joint just will not come out like it is supposed to. The root goes in fine, but subsequent passes are harder to get in for some reason.
I will put it on the list but you will probably be done before I could get it shot lol. But let me ask some details anyway...Is it a tee joint? stringers or weave? and are you required to do lay wire? Any particular size wire? If root goes in good, but subsequent passes go bad , it could be surface oxidation so a gas lens might help along with letting it cool between passes along with wire brushing every pass.
@@weldingtipsandtricks Hi Jody. No worries. I`m sure it will take time to get videos out. I can answer your questions though.
1) 2F T-joint on 1/4 carbon steel plate.
2) stringers (but slight weave) and I`m required to do lay wire for some reason. Walking the cup is not allowed at all BTW. My instructor wants 6 beads.
3) 1/8 ER70S-6 filler rod. I`m welding @ 140amps on a Lincoln Aspect using Hi-freq start W/ a foot pedal. We also use gas lenses on our torches with #6 cups at ~30CFH. Maybe some surface oxidation, but only the "pretty colors" ;)
I can get the root in OK, but getting the other passes in is a little harder for some reason. I made on that looked decent, but my instructor is making me keep trying as the beads favored the bottom plate too much. The problem I have is that subsequent passes are not always flowing right. Meaning they do not always flatten out but can crown up too much and don`t tie into each other. He said I might have been adding too much filler metal (not sure how, maybe too much pressure on the rod?) I try to keep the torch and filler rod at about 90 degrees. I`m running a slight push angle on my torch, but currently, I can only get a decent bead if I push the weld towards me a bit for some reason. I also have to hold the torch handle almost parallel to the joint and it makes my hand hot rather quickly. The first pass is put in at 45 degrees and then the torch angle needs to come up a bit with subsequent passes. My instructor said to point the filler rod and tungsten at the center of the root for the second pass. It is such a simple joint, but it is causing me issues for some reason. It is probably a simple fix once I get it, but now it is a little hard. I don`t know what the issue is. My gut tells me some kind of torch angle problem but I`m not sure. I`ll be talking with my instructor about it more on Monday, but I greatly appreciate any advice you can give me. Keep the videos coming Jody. I always love watching your channel. It is always fun and informative, and you were a big inspiration to learn welding. Thank you for everything.
Connor
@@connormarek1028 Don't run 30 cfh on a #6 gas lens, you could probably run 12 and that's more than enough. Turbulence? Other than that, sounds like you're doing things right on paper.
@@MikeYurbasovich Thanks. I`ll try turning the flowmeter down a bit. Yeah, it sounds like stuff is good on paper, but something is out of whack. I`m sure I`ll get it eventually, but I just don`t want to be stuck on one joint for too long.
@connormarek1028
Turn down the cfh anywhere from 10-15 its usually 2 x the cup size could be that the excess argon is cooling down your weld too much and not letting your puddle wet out as well as causing turbulence also if your pass is favoring the bottom plate on any horizontal position I always place my filler higher than I normally would in other positions to counter act gravity that way once gravity does its thing your bead ends up right where you want it hope this helps.
That lay down filler rod technique looks easier than feeding it. Is there a reason why this technique can’t be used other welding positions? Thanks ,Jody. John
One other question: have to tig weld a t joint on 3/8 in stainless. Do I have to root pass this and weld over or could I do it in one go. ? Amp ? Volt settings
I am just a hobbyist welder. Thanks again
Excellent video!
Very helpful tips ❤️
You always have amazing arc shots, Jody. 👍🏻
Thank you jody
Thanks Jody
Fine looking weld
Where do u recommend finding stainless steel
Great 👍
Is it possible for you to go from left to right instead of right to left like your doing in this video but using the same hand setup
If you mean can you drag the bead along instead of leading it, no
TIG always has to be advanced into the filler. No room to do it backwards and the filler would pile up behind the weld, and constantly foul the electrode. You want the arc pointed at the root of the joint, no more than an electrode width off the material being welded.
What torch are you using?
weldtec speedway sw320
Why does tig require in-nurte gas but oxi-acediline can be welding with steel clothes hangers
You're conflating two ideas. First, TIG can also be done with a steel clothes hanger, provided it's clean of all paint and grease. It's just a filler metal. But to your base question, you don't need a shielding gas with oxy-acetylene, because you are welding with a gas already, and the combustion of said gas provides a shield for the weld from our atmosphere. It's built into the process, unlike methods which utilize the heat from an electrical arc. The heat of the burning gases also burns paint off your crappy old coathanger, which if done thoroughly, can prevent you from needing to clean it off like you do for TIG, on your questionable repair.
All forms of welding benefit from clean base metals and filler metals. No chance for inclusions if you keep it clean. Save the coat hangers for cleaning drains or chinese steel production, and get some ER-70S2 for that weld.
Without walking the cup maybe
Are you interested in Laser Welding?
এই welding শিকার খুব দরকার আমার কেউ কি শিখতে চান😎
বাংলাদেশে মাসে ৬০ হাজার টাকা
if you don't have a tig finger xl then don't bother sending a job application. 😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏😏
Jodi I do have to say I've been following your channel since the very beginning of me picking up a TIG torch and all the following that I've seen with techniques and everything with TIG welding everybody is different with doing something and I think that it makes it kind of confusing for a newbie to follow who they want to follow and what to do with TIG welding. I would definitely say I started out following Justin at TFS learning how to TIG weld and I find it more defined an educational following you and TIG welding than him you got better techniques you're a lot slower and you're more methodical and showing what is the proper way of doing it and what are the wrong ways of doing it. And that's standing there I will say I do appreciate the videos you put out and appreciate all the information that you give and also too I do have to say thank you for picking up on the primeweld tig 225 x that was the biggest thing that I had having problems of wrapping my hands around on because everybody was like a script with the machine when I initially got it and you actually tested the machine and actually telling the truth that it had options like a high-end machine keep up the good work and thank you...
Thanks Jody