In this 2 min video Rô demonstrates how you should NOT install a gutter system. Please pay attention if you want to know How to install gutters the right way
Thank you SO MUCH for this!!! We had brand new gutters installed and it's leaking like this in the video. I called to complain and the gutter guy said he will "tape" it to fix it and I told him no ways, he better fix it permanently. I don't know what he did but it's no longer leaking but I think I better get on a ladder and double check.
A bead of caulk would last ... about a year .. ish. Then every year until they sell their home they would have to get back up that tall ladder and re-caulk everything! No thank you.
Unreal how some operations install gutters, drip-edge is so simple and effective yet as you said they do "@h(t like this". Not hard manipulate gutter under drip-edge, slope from high end to low, and install a downspout on low end. Yet here you have what you have.
I’ve been installing eavestrough for over 30 years, bend the drip edge away from the fascia board so the drip edge diverts the water to the middle of the eavestrough.
I did my own roof last year and made sure the drip edge was out over the gutter, then raised UP the gutter so it slipped under the drip edge fully at the high point.
This gutter probably does the same thing (hard to tell), starting from underneath the drip edge...hence him suggesting to add what he calls a "gutter apron" once it slopes below the drip edge...
I honestly prefer the apron over the drip-edge being so close to the gutter, but in the end of the day, if it’s working and not leaking, you’ve done a great job. 👏 You should
There is simply too much roofline for that one piece of gutter. Simply add a downspout on the other side and the gutter will not fill up and leak behind it…
There is 2 reasons for the water going behind the gutter, either the shingles aren’t installed correctly or there is to much water with not enough downspouts leading it to overflow. Try to avoid putting your trough behind the drip edge. It will still flow over just the same but now since your behind the dripedge it will go behind the fascia and rot out the fascia board. I’ve seen and fixed this on houses before. I have videos from customers showing water coming out from behind the fascia. Not sure why people think it’s a good idea to put the trough behind the dripedge, that’s not what it’s for!
In theory? If the roof installers used 3" drip edge & they used rain gutter with a 3" lip. Couldn't they have tucked the rain gutter under the drip edge by about 1.5". And every 10 feet slope it 1/4 of an inch? That way the rain gutter would have remained behind the drip edge causing no leaking issues?
Muito bom irmão. Calhas deveriam ser um requerimento em qualquer planta a menos que provisões fossem feitas para drenagem apropriada das águas fluviais. Uma pergunta, em qual estado vc trabalha?
First of all...the drip edge should have had at least a finger space between it and the facia,don't matter if wrapped with junk aluminum or not.. second, the shingles should have been left at least 1/2-3/4 past the drip edge. This is always going to happen is right. When things are done the wrong way
Good question. The things is, gutters require a 1/4” drop per 10’ run. So even if you start under the drip edge on one side, on the low side, it won’t. So having an apron installed help prevent water from getting behind the gutter.
@@loyaltyexteriorsolutions Thanks. so the apron has a longer leg going down? Ive got 3/12, and no overhangs and tempted to cover eave with ice and water or metal before roofing.
I need some advice, the corners of my seamless gutter has ponding and pooling of water, I was told this was "normal", is it? Granted there isn't a very close to the corner in question, though.
It’s definitely NOT normal for water to be leaking of a newly installed gutter. If the person who installed can’t make it stop, I’d recommend calling another company. Look on Google for reputable gutter service companies if you don’t know anyone who does that.
@@loyaltyexteriorsolutions They asked me not to, and stated they would "make it right" but we are still having problems, in fact found a NEW problem this morning when I got up. I definitely will take your advice and will probably end up calling another gutter service to come look at it.
All depends, normal that’s nailed under the shingles, and removing the drip edge can damage the shingles. Even with skill. I mean it can be done if absolutely needed but there should never be a good reason. Just slide the back of the trough under the drip edge. Use hangers that don’t go over the back of the eaves otherwise you won’t get a nice headlap.
Calling it gutter apron is sooo confusing with "drip edge vs. gutter apron" :) I guess the question is...why is their drip edge not working? All the promises LOL...does caulk work well long term? I've heard rumors gutter installers don't like to "just put the whole thing underneath" (leaving room for caulking, as you suggest) so that drips from the drip edge don't splash though? Cheers!
How about installing the eavestrough correctly. Caulking the back of the eavestrough is a rookie homeowner repair, I’d fire my installer if they caulked the back of an eavestrough. Bend the drip edge so it diverts the water into the middle of the eavestrough.
Yeah something is off. Either the shingles or the drip edge somehow would be my guess (or the gutters as this guy postulates). Doesn't hurt to install the extra flashing either way, as he recommends...
Always drip edge. I’m the roofer not the gutter installer, but sometimes do gutters here and there. But also don’t go lower, water can overshoot the gutters in a strong rain depending on roof pitch.
@@justinstevenson2061 If this happens where the water overshoots, than the wrong gutter size got installed. If the LF of the eave is more than 40 LF and there is a high pitch, install 6" gutter to handle the volume of water.
@@loyaltyroofingsolutions9499 I was saying if the eaves trough is too low then it’ll overshoot. Regardless if you oversize it too low will still overshoot. Over sizing it would only be for a huge roof / high volume flow. My comment was about drip edge. Regardless of the roof style or the size of eaves installed, the drip edge will cover the back of the eaves against the fascia. The water can sometimes stick to the back if the single and roll down the fascia and get at the joint of the eaves/fascia then get behind the eaves and render the eaves useless for any water following its path. Might not be a ton of water but it can cause problems overtime.
Thank you SO MUCH for this!!! We had brand new gutters installed and it's leaking like this in the video. I called to complain and the gutter guy said he will "tape" it to fix it and I told him no ways, he better fix it permanently. I don't know what he did but it's no longer leaking but I think I better get on a ladder and double check.
Glad it helped!
Would You know what You were looking for ?
Don’t bother trying to caulk that, the only right way is to go under the drip or install strips of flashing. A bead of caulk will not last though
Agreed
A bead of caulk would last ... about a year .. ish. Then every year until they sell their home they would have to get back up that tall ladder and re-caulk everything! No thank you.
Unreal how some operations install gutters, drip-edge is so simple and effective yet as you said they do "@h(t like this". Not hard manipulate gutter under drip-edge, slope from high end to low, and install a downspout on low end. Yet here you have what you have.
what happens when the gutter is installed under the drip edge and this still occurs?
Makes sense and stands to reason thank you very much for sharing
Honored to have been of service Sandra 😊
I’ve been installing eavestrough for over 30 years, bend the drip edge away from the fascia board so the drip edge diverts the water to the middle of the eavestrough.
What about capillary action? My drip edge just gets overwhelmed with water in heavy storms. It just goes behind the gutter.
I did my own roof last year and made sure the drip edge was out over the gutter, then raised UP the gutter so it slipped under the drip edge fully at the high point.
Good to know. Thanks for info. Just getting new gutters on 👍🙏
This gutter probably does the same thing (hard to tell), starting from underneath the drip edge...hence him suggesting to add what he calls a "gutter apron" once it slopes below the drip edge...
I honestly prefer the apron over the drip-edge being so close to the gutter, but in the end of the day, if it’s working and not leaking, you’ve done a great job. 👏 You should
There is simply too much roofline for that one piece of gutter. Simply add a downspout on the other side and the gutter will not fill up and leak behind it…
There is 2 reasons for the water going behind the gutter, either the shingles aren’t installed correctly or there is to much water with not enough downspouts leading it to overflow. Try to avoid putting your trough behind the drip edge. It will still flow over just the same but now since your behind the dripedge it will go behind the fascia and rot out the fascia board. I’ve seen and fixed this on houses before. I have videos from customers showing water coming out from behind the fascia. Not sure why people think it’s a good idea to put the trough behind the dripedge, that’s not what it’s for!
Not a problem with the spouting. The drip edge needed to be further out.
In theory? If the roof installers used 3" drip edge & they used rain gutter with a 3" lip. Couldn't they have tucked the rain gutter under the drip edge by about 1.5". And every 10 feet slope it 1/4 of an inch? That way the rain gutter would have remained behind the drip edge causing no leaking issues?
very good I work with gutters in Brazil too good job
Muito bom irmão. Calhas deveriam ser um requerimento em qualquer planta a menos que provisões fossem feitas para drenagem apropriada das águas fluviais.
Uma pergunta, em qual estado vc trabalha?
First of all...the drip edge should have had at least a finger space between it and the facia,don't matter if wrapped with junk aluminum or not.. second, the shingles should have been left at least 1/2-3/4 past the drip edge. This is always going to happen is right. When things are done the wrong way
Absolutely
People are cutting corners, specially now with all the inflation. Make sure you do your research.
Amazing how they do it wrong. A nice house, poor quality on gutters. Good job pointing it out...
So when I buy drip edge for my new roof, do I ask for apron drip edge? I thought gutter slipped up behind regular drip edge..
Good question. The things is, gutters require a 1/4” drop per 10’ run. So even if you start under the drip edge on one side, on the low side, it won’t. So having an apron installed help prevent water from getting behind the gutter.
@@loyaltyexteriorsolutions Thanks. so the apron has a longer leg going down? Ive got 3/12, and no overhangs and tempted to cover eave with ice and water or metal before roofing.
What's amazing is how many YT videos by "pros" on installing gutters completely leave that detail out.
Precisely
I need some advice, the corners of my seamless gutter has ponding and pooling of water, I was told this was "normal", is it? Granted there isn't a very close to the corner in question, though.
It’s definitely NOT normal for water to be leaking of a newly installed gutter. If the person who installed can’t make it stop, I’d recommend calling another company. Look on Google for reputable gutter service companies if you don’t know anyone who does that.
@@loyaltyexteriorsolutions They asked me not to, and stated they would "make it right" but we are still having problems, in fact found a NEW problem this morning when I got up. I definitely will take your advice and will probably end up calling another gutter service to come look at it.
Pull the flashing out before you install so water can't go behind
All depends, normal that’s nailed under the shingles, and removing the drip edge can damage the shingles. Even with skill.
I mean it can be done if absolutely needed but there should never be a good reason.
Just slide the back of the trough under the drip edge. Use hangers that don’t go over the back of the eaves otherwise you won’t get a nice headlap.
You're suggesting to bend the drip edge out?
Great advice! Thank you
Thank you!
Calling it gutter apron is sooo confusing with "drip edge vs. gutter apron" :) I guess the question is...why is their drip edge not working? All the promises LOL...does caulk work well long term? I've heard rumors gutter installers don't like to "just put the whole thing underneath" (leaving room for caulking, as you suggest) so that drips from the drip edge don't splash though? Cheers!
Thanks for sharing your experience mate.
How about installing the eavestrough correctly. Caulking the back of the eavestrough is a rookie homeowner repair, I’d fire my installer if they caulked the back of an eavestrough. Bend the drip edge so it diverts the water into the middle of the eavestrough.
Thank you!!!
Its my pleasure to be able to assist in any kind of way. ☺️
Let’s not even talk about how short the chimney is //// oops 😂
Drafting issues
Yeah, putting that ladder on the gutter without any standoffs is just not professional.
Thanks for the advice, we’ll work at that.
Those shingles are not installed correctly which is why the water is running back
Yeah something is off. Either the shingles or the drip edge somehow would be my guess (or the gutters as this guy postulates). Doesn't hurt to install the extra flashing either way, as he recommends...
def not always gonna happen, come too south you'll hardly see drip edge
That is so true, the South has their own standards. Up where we are from in the Northeast we see this alot.
Always drip edge. I’m the roofer not the gutter installer, but sometimes do gutters here and there.
But also don’t go lower, water can overshoot the gutters in a strong rain depending on roof pitch.
You should see the metal roofs that get installed in the south where I’m from 🤣💀
@@justinstevenson2061 If this happens where the water overshoots, than the wrong gutter size got installed. If the LF of the eave is more than 40 LF and there is a high pitch, install 6" gutter to handle the volume of water.
@@loyaltyroofingsolutions9499 I was saying if the eaves trough is too low then it’ll overshoot.
Regardless if you oversize it too low will still overshoot. Over sizing it would only be for a huge roof / high volume flow.
My comment was about drip edge. Regardless of the roof style or the size of eaves installed, the drip edge will cover the back of the eaves against the fascia.
The water can sometimes stick to the back if the single and roll down the fascia and get at the joint of the eaves/fascia then get behind the eaves and render the eaves useless for any water following its path. Might not be a ton of water but it can cause problems overtime.
Useless.
Move on lol