You know, I feel the same way they’re constantly building and doing more impressing the envelope, and also hitting very hard trails and then letting us know what those said trails are some of the most valuable information to a true rider!!
Yeah it is funny. The way my property is I come in through my driveway but I have to exit through my yard when towing the toy hauler. After a snow melt and days of rain my yard is a swamp.
Watching Can-Am guys working on a Polaris makes my toes curl! 😅 The hardest thing that I've done with my RZR is pulling stuck rear axles too! I ended up having to take the boots off and getting everything out of the cup. Used a slide hammer and a couple of locking pliers. Oh, and a lot of Kroil oil. It worked. They were never removed before, and the splines were just crudded up. Used a lot of anti seize on the new ones. Another great video! Glad your doing some more wrenching vids.
It’s tough working on these rzrs 🤣 especially since we’re new to it but we gotta start somewhere haha. Hopefully some day soon I have as much knowledge with the rzr as I do can am. This is definitely how you get familiar with the machine though.
CrshCity, great people. They are doing a gear reduction and more for me. I really like that you are including the next generation in your videos. We have a machine built for my son and he is learning to drive. It has been fun. CrashCity did the build , lower gears and clutch kit. It will be a different machine . Maybe you can do a before and after comparison clip.
I can’t wait to get it on the trails to find out. I can’t go crazy on it yet until I get a good drive shaft under it but I’m gonna get on it pretty good haha
If you guys haven’t done it already you don’t have to pull the center console to do the driveshaft l.. you pull the skid plate and there is 2 crossmembers ti drop to access the carrier bearings.. its a pretty simple job
I have the same 4x4 switch in my machine. Iv got an xp1000 so it’s a different diff but the same backs design. It definitely fixed the issues i was having. I diff would pop under hard impacts, so i rebuilt it with sandcraft parts because i did find some broken parts. And after I rebuilt it i started getting ratcheting in those same places that used to make the diff pop. After a few rides i figured id give the switch a shot, and it fixed the diff, so i highly recommend it. You do have to be smart when you use it though, so don’t flip the switch when the back wheels are turnings and the fronts aren’t
The axles fought us on pro xps on our channel just like this! I even broke a puller trying to get drivers side rear hub off. We’ve done the same gear reduction on both pros and it’s the best upgrade we’ve done. I also run the crash city clutch kit, that paired with the gear reduction is money!!
Awesome. Good to know. I watch all your videos, found your channel a little while back when we were searching pro xp content and still getting caught up haha.
The “ace” set is the reverse shaft and matching gear. The “ranger low is one on the input shaft and matching gear. You’ll love that combo in the 4seater. I ran it on mine with 35s a while before adding the turbo r reverse shaft and stage 3 13%. Pro xp driveshaft comes out the bottom. Just remove the front sections of the skid and 2 crossmembers won’t have to remove anything on the interior. Polaris puts loctite on the axle splines for whatever reason. Dab of marine grease on the splines on reassembly and they’ll slide right out next time
I rebuilt the transmission in my 2017 XP 1000.I forgot what a project it was. Keep the videos coming. I run Tru Lok on my XP1000 and my Turbo R. I wouldn't run without it.
Great video as always. I actually saw you guys last November as both our groups were going to Ivy Branch. You were kind enough to take the time to chat and gave me a few stickers and I told you I just bought a used Pro XP after owning a Commander XP that stayed in our group. Anyway, the rear axles are a known problem as others may have mentioned. From the factory they put red Loctite on the rear hubs. They also call to put red Loctite back on when servicing if you watch the Polaris Service Videos on You Tube. I guess the reason being is that you have steel splines into an aluminum hub and the factory wanted a solid connection between the two so the hubs don't get stripped? "Ridiculous" as you noted and I didn't even think of re-assembling mine back with that setup - nor would I let a dealer do that if I needed major work done. Also, axles into the front and rear diffs will corrode up really easy on RZRs. I broke two front axles and ruined my front diff (which is why I purchased one of your axle pullers) trying to upgrade my axles to Rhino 2.0s. From other notable youtubers, I was informed to take out the axles 'often' to clean and re-lube up with anti-seize so you can service if needed on the trail. Anyway, sorry for the long post...but you already found all this out the hard way! BTW, just got one of those Badlands jacks and they are awesome!!
I run the Tru Lok on my front diff. It definitely made my diff feel like it pulled harder than just the stock diff. Excited to see what you all do with a polaris build. Cracked me up watching you all in a polaris but great move changing it up a little. Always the best content on your videos!
If you upgrade front an arms on any of can ams I would like to see a step x step video. I’m a DIY Person or even a separate channel for step by step stuff.
Can’t wait to see the next video and see what your thoughts are on doing this. We live in the southwest, but are from the Midwest so we do a variety of riding throughout the year and I just feel like our ProXP4 is geared to high, especially in low. We ride a variety of trails both technical slow rocky terrain and faster desert trails. Plus are street legal here in AZ, so I don’t want to lose to much top end. (Still need to be able to ride 55-65mph on long road stretches between trails) But would love to make high more trail rideable in that 15-50mph range, and low better for the slow technical stuff. I’m currently running 32’s on HCR long travel but have been thinking about going to 35’s, for when we go up to Moab or back out to the Midwest. I’ve been doing a ton of research but these videos really help. I’ll have to reach out to Crash City to get some more info. Thanks again for this video! You’ve got a new subscriber ✌🏼👊🏼
Awesome. Thank you. Before we did the reduction we could ride in low gear at 20-25mph. Now it’s comfortably at 10-15mph in low. We did a 53/12/12 so high gear didn’t change much but it’s noticeable. Comfortably cruising at 50-55mph with bursts upwards up that. The clutch kit engages awesome. We haven’t had it on the trails yet that is just around our house but we should have a series of riding videos coming up here soon where we will test it
@@TheCanAmCrew yeah on 32’s I can easily cruise upwards of 30-40mph (gps speed) in low until the limiter kicks in. Which to me is just to high for low gear. I’d rather be in that up 10-20 range in low. And be able to safety use 15mph+ in high, so when we’re cruising forest roads then into a higher speed trail, I don’t have to stop to take it out of low just to get to those 50-60 higher speeds. I’m thinking if I did the gear reduction and stayed on 32-33s I’d be able to do that, I know jumping up to 35’s would lower my speed a little but with along with a minor tune on these turbo machines, I’d think a gear reduction of 53/12/12 would achieve everything I’m looking for. Hopefully Crash City will have some good insight for me. Thank you for the reply…look forward to the next video.
Also, that clutch kit will more than handle what you want it to do for the time being. But I’d definitely look into full stm replacements as soon as your budget allows. The p90x primary will not hold up for long. The stm primary is a lot more user friendly and will be way more durable.
After you'll stick them 35 zillas on you may want to upgrade your diff with a Coffman Hill Killer Dif, your definitely gonna break your ring gear in it
Curious how this is going to go with the gear reduction.. but looking forward to the 35” zillas I want that to be my next tire I believe. Question besides rock how are they in mud and sandy conditions do to me living in the northern Indiana area closer to Michigan trails
Im going to start a gofundme for yall to get new shop lights, especially over the workbench. You're going to be wrenching alot more now that you own a Polaris! 😂
@TheCanAmCrew what percent reduction did you go with ? Assuming you haven't opened it up to see any mph loss? I have stm clutches and I went with a 42/38 helix which helped with that low end sluggish feel but still considering a reduction but don't wanna loose a ton of mph
And no you don't have to take the center console out to do the driveshaft You can do it all from underneath. Drop the skid plate is all you need to do. I just wrapped up doing u joints in my shaft.
thanks for reply trying to figure out what size to build and with heat and air it gets costly quick yours looks like just enough room without a bunch of wasted space.@@TheCanAmCrew
@@rfgonzo I have never done a top speed run but it’s a 53/12/12 reduction so it would be 12% lower in high. So if it was 85mph before it would be 75 now.
Next time axle is stuck in the hub, pull your whole axle and use a press to pop the axle of the hub, Works like a charm. Never mind, I spoke to soon before you got to that part.
You selling the forward Aarms because you decided to go long travel!!? The first axle pull is the worst. Next time to break the inner free leave the hub & training arm assembled, pull the radius rods & swaybar link and use the trailing arm as a slid hammer.
I have no idea how you don't have more subscribers. You have one of the best SXS channels there is.
You know, I feel the same way they’re constantly building and doing more impressing the envelope, and also hitting very hard trails and then letting us know what those said trails are some of the most valuable information to a true rider!!
We sure do appreciate that. Some day maybe. We’re just excited folks enjoy our videos haha.
Thank you. 👊🏻👊🏻
Agree
@@MrEsimmons178 👊🏻👊🏻 thank you
Am I the only one that has no intention on buying a Rzr, but watched the whole video? Hahah
THANKS Canam crew!!
Cant wait for you to get it on the trails. You’re gonna love it.
Hit us up for a ride sometime. Let’s go!!
We can’t thank you enough. We’ll definitely get with you for a ride.
Hey Scott finally made it out of his driveway!!!
🤣🤣
Good to see and hear Scott’s laugh again, missed ya !
A lot of work to run 35’s. Thanks for sharing. Good to c Scott back! Super happy I own a can am 😂. All stock on 32’s no issues, x3 rules!!!
love the shop videos even if it is a RZR, y’all are the best
It was nice to see Scott made out his driveway this time lol
🤣
Scott, with the wicked trails you ride on, it's ironic that your rig got stuck in your yard LOL. Welcome back brother
Yeah it is funny. The way my property is I come in through my driveway but I have to exit through my yard when towing the toy hauler. After a snow melt and days of rain my yard is a swamp.
It's Scott 😂
So good to see Scott, enjoy every video!
Watching Can-Am guys working on a Polaris makes my toes curl! 😅
The hardest thing that I've done with my RZR is pulling stuck rear axles too! I ended up having to take the boots off and getting everything out of the cup. Used a slide hammer and a couple of locking pliers. Oh, and a lot of Kroil oil.
It worked. They were never removed before, and the splines were just crudded up. Used a lot of anti seize on the new ones.
Another great video! Glad your doing some more wrenching vids.
It’s tough working on these rzrs 🤣 especially since we’re new to it but we gotta start somewhere haha. Hopefully some day soon I have as much knowledge with the rzr as I do can am. This is definitely how you get familiar with the machine though.
Awsome video..!!! SCOTT go 2 see ya back in the video's...!!!!!
CrshCity, great people. They are doing a gear reduction and more for me. I really like that you are including the next generation in your videos. We have a machine built for my son and he is learning to drive. It has been fun. CrashCity did the build , lower gears and clutch kit. It will be a different machine . Maybe you can do a before and after comparison clip.
Thanks for the shout out on the hess switch, that machine is gonna be a beast!
I can’t wait to get it on the trails to find out. I can’t go crazy on it yet until I get a good drive shaft under it but I’m gonna get on it pretty good haha
I think it will treat you well,I love my pro xp.
Stephen and amber done mine on my pro xp and couldn't be happier with the results. I'd definitely reccomend them.
Sounds like us in the shop. 😅
Great video
Man it’s like the universe knows I’ve been thinking about doing a gear reduction in my RZR🎉
I hope this helps you out, more to come!!!
Thought Scott got lost lol. Go to see him back
Naaah, he just missed 2 rides lol.
If you guys haven’t done it already you don’t have to pull the center console to do the driveshaft l.. you pull the skid plate and there is 2 crossmembers ti drop to access the carrier bearings.. its a pretty simple job
Thank you, we haven’t done it yet so that is good info to have. Thanks!
I have the same 4x4 switch in my machine. Iv got an xp1000 so it’s a different diff but the same backs design. It definitely fixed the issues i was having. I diff would pop under hard impacts, so i rebuilt it with sandcraft parts because i did find some broken parts. And after I rebuilt it i started getting ratcheting in those same places that used to make the diff pop. After a few rides i figured id give the switch a shot, and it fixed the diff, so i highly recommend it. You do have to be smart when you use it though, so don’t flip the switch when the back wheels are turnings and the fronts aren’t
Sherry had the worst job toque wrenching them bead locks 🤣
The axles fought us on pro xps on our channel just like this! I even broke a puller trying to get drivers side rear hub off. We’ve done the same gear reduction on both pros and it’s the best upgrade we’ve done. I also run the crash city clutch kit, that paired with the gear reduction is money!!
Awesome. Good to know. I watch all your videos, found your channel a little while back when we were searching pro xp content and still getting caught up haha.
The “ace” set is the reverse shaft and matching gear. The “ranger low is one on the input shaft and matching gear. You’ll love that combo in the 4seater. I ran it on mine with 35s a while before adding the turbo r reverse shaft and stage 3 13%. Pro xp driveshaft comes out the bottom. Just remove the front sections of the skid and 2 crossmembers won’t have to remove anything on the interior. Polaris puts loctite on the axle splines for whatever reason. Dab of marine grease on the splines on reassembly and they’ll slide right out next time
Awesome. Thank you for the info.
I rebuilt the transmission in my 2017 XP 1000.I forgot what a project it was. Keep the videos coming. I run Tru Lok on my XP1000 and my Turbo R. I wouldn't run without it.
Great video as always. I actually saw you guys last November as both our groups were going to Ivy Branch. You were kind enough to take the time to chat and gave me a few stickers and I told you I just bought a used Pro XP after owning a Commander XP that stayed in our group. Anyway, the rear axles are a known problem as others may have mentioned. From the factory they put red Loctite on the rear hubs. They also call to put red Loctite back on when servicing if you watch the Polaris Service Videos on You Tube. I guess the reason being is that you have steel splines into an aluminum hub and the factory wanted a solid connection between the two so the hubs don't get stripped? "Ridiculous" as you noted and I didn't even think of re-assembling mine back with that setup - nor would I let a dealer do that if I needed major work done. Also, axles into the front and rear diffs will corrode up really easy on RZRs. I broke two front axles and ruined my front diff (which is why I purchased one of your axle pullers) trying to upgrade my axles to Rhino 2.0s. From other notable youtubers, I was informed to take out the axles 'often' to clean and re-lube up with anti-seize so you can service if needed on the trail. Anyway, sorry for the long post...but you already found all this out the hard way! BTW, just got one of those Badlands jacks and they are awesome!!
Great video as always! Never disappoint! This ship is sailing!
🤙🏻👊🏻 appreciate it.
I run the Tru Lok on my front diff. It definitely made my diff feel like it pulled harder than just the stock diff. Excited to see what you all do with a polaris build. Cracked me up watching you all in a polaris but great move changing it up a little. Always the best content on your videos!
If you upgrade front an arms on any of can ams I would like to see a step x step video. I’m a DIY Person or even a separate channel for step by step stuff.
We’ve done a few a arm installs on can ams on our channel.
Man y’all are brave, there’s no way I would tear into a trans like that, gears laid everywhere 😂, great video
Grease grease grease! I’ve never had that much trouble with my pro xp axles but i have seen some rough ones lol
Can’t wait to see the next video and see what your thoughts are on doing this.
We live in the southwest, but are from the Midwest so we do a variety of riding throughout the year and I just feel like our ProXP4 is geared to high, especially in low. We ride a variety of trails both technical slow rocky terrain and faster desert trails. Plus are street legal here in AZ, so I don’t want to lose to much top end. (Still need to be able to ride 55-65mph on long road stretches between trails) But would love to make high more trail rideable in that 15-50mph range, and low better for the slow technical stuff. I’m currently running 32’s on HCR long travel but have been thinking about going to 35’s, for when we go up to Moab or back out to the Midwest.
I’ve been doing a ton of research but these videos really help. I’ll have to reach out to Crash City to get some more info. Thanks again for this video! You’ve got a new subscriber ✌🏼👊🏼
Awesome. Thank you. Before we did the reduction we could ride in low gear at 20-25mph. Now it’s comfortably at 10-15mph in low. We did a 53/12/12 so high gear didn’t change much but it’s noticeable. Comfortably cruising at 50-55mph with bursts upwards up that. The clutch kit engages awesome. We haven’t had it on the trails yet that is just around our house but we should have a series of riding videos coming up here soon where we will test it
@@TheCanAmCrew yeah on 32’s I can easily cruise upwards of 30-40mph (gps speed) in low until the limiter kicks in. Which to me is just to high for low gear. I’d rather be in that up 10-20 range in low. And be able to safety use 15mph+ in high, so when we’re cruising forest roads then into a higher speed trail, I don’t have to stop to take it out of low just to get to those 50-60 higher speeds. I’m thinking if I did the gear reduction and stayed on 32-33s I’d be able to do that, I know jumping up to 35’s would lower my speed a little but with along with a minor tune on these turbo machines, I’d think a gear reduction of 53/12/12 would achieve everything I’m looking for.
Hopefully Crash City will have some good insight for me.
Thank you for the reply…look forward to the next video.
Great job to the tire lady!
Great work! Really interesting how it all works. Keep it up 👍
Also, that clutch kit will more than handle what you want it to do for the time being. But I’d definitely look into full stm replacements as soon as your budget allows. The p90x primary will not hold up for long. The stm primary is a lot more user friendly and will be way more durable.
I run 4+3 alba crushers on my turbo s I’m 81 inches wide lol msa also makes a 4+3
The Blue skull cap is back😉👍🏽
😂🤣😂
Awesome work on the RZR. 👍👍
Thank you
Scott working that press on those Trans bearings sounds like the little engine that could.😂 Nothing like to Can Sm Guys working on a RZR. Rotflmfao😅
Grab some inch half spacers. Run all the way around. With 4/3 offset wheels. You'll think me later. Be running them for years on my pro.
Don't forget to add an extra quart of fluid in the transmission.
After you'll stick them 35 zillas on you may want to upgrade your diff with a Coffman Hill Killer Dif, your definitely gonna break your ring gear in it
We plan on making our own diff similar to what we did with our can am diff.
when you guys do your door swap I'd like to buy the passenger rear frame from you. busted mine in half
Pretty much the exact same gear reduction I had done on the XP1K
If those are sizemik mirrors I believe they will send you the rubber spacer to make them fit smaller tubes. They sent me a pair for no charge.
They are seizmik. That’s what we run on our can ams. Awesome warranty.
Great job guys great video
You guys are a awsome crew will have to get together next time you guys come to WV
You managed to fix the squeaky X3 brakes on Sherri’s and have the fix for all of us…🤣🤣🤣
Running ebc sintered r brakes will stop 99 percent of the squeak.
@@TheCanAmCrew I’ll give it a shot thank you
Hell ya. Scottie!!
Interested in the satv a arms
They might be sold. I’ll let you know.
Curious how this is going to go with the gear reduction.. but looking forward to the 35” zillas I want that to be my next tire I believe. Question besides rock how are they in mud and sandy conditions do to me living in the northern Indiana area closer to Michigan trails
They do amazing in the sand. The mud they aren’t the best.
If you still have the A-arms I’d be interested in them.
We are keeping the a arms as spares.
Im going to start a gofundme for yall to get new shop lights, especially over the workbench.
You're going to be wrenching alot more now that you own a Polaris! 😂
Haha. We enjoy the wrenching so bring it on lol.
Please do a review on how that gear reduction works cus I'm on the fence
That will be coming up in our next riding series. So far just riding it around the house I’m very impressed. I need to get it on the trails though.
@TheCanAmCrew what percent reduction did you go with ? Assuming you haven't opened it up to see any mph loss? I have stm clutches and I went with a 42/38 helix which helped with that low end sluggish feel but still considering a reduction but don't wanna loose a ton of mph
@@tylerraffensberger3756 53/12/12
And no you don't have to take the center console out to do the driveshaft You can do it all from underneath. Drop the skid plate is all you need to do. I just wrapped up doing u joints in my shaft.
Ring gear delete on the way with the 35’s.
I am 100% interested in the rear windshield if it is not sold yet! What’s the easiest way to get ahold of you?
It isn’t sold yet. You can message me on Facebook or send us an email at thecanamcrew@yahoo.com
very common i antiseize everytime
Do those need up graded reverse chain ?
Not to my knowledge.
Pro xp, turbo r, turbo s, and xp turbo have gear driven reverse unlike the xp1000 so no reverse chain upgrade needed
Little chilly 💯👍
what size is your shop
Roughly 20x25 with a 8x25 side garage addition
thanks for reply trying to figure out what size to build and with heat and air it gets costly quick yours looks like just enough room without a bunch of wasted space.@@TheCanAmCrew
For whatever reason, Polaris puts loctite on the axle splines from the factory.
So dumb lol. We got it though so hopefully we’re good from now on
Not sure why you thought the clutches would be problematic but the axles and carrier are the worst!
Everyone and every video I’ve watched everyone had issues with the clutch so it had more on edge lol
lol. I get it but I’ve never had an issue with basic tools
Doesn’t that void the warranty?
No idea. Its not brand new and does have a warranty so we aren’t worried about that.
With this reduction what's your top end speed in High?
@@rfgonzo I have never done a top speed run but it’s a 53/12/12 reduction so it would be 12% lower in high. So if it was 85mph before it would be 75 now.
Next time axle is stuck in the hub, pull your whole axle and use a press to pop the axle of the hub, Works like a charm. Never mind, I spoke to soon before you got to that part.
We did that in this video.
First a Polaris and now Hunter works products !!!! OMG this ship is sinking.
Far from it lol.
You selling the forward Aarms because you decided to go long travel!!? The first axle pull is the worst. Next time to break the inner free leave the hub & training arm assembled, pull the radius rods & swaybar link and use the trailing arm as a slid hammer.
I’m selling the a arms became were doing the orb 2” forward a arms
Those have the heim lowers or set-up for standard style ball joints?
@@samhatfield3196 they have the heim lowers
I'm to hear how you like how you like them seeing how you ride & the miles you put on your machines
💯👍😎
you rearanged garage
Yes, about 6 months ago or so.
barely 20 miles and damaged rip